GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: Mrpug on 23 January 2009, 04:30
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Hey guys & gals, it's been a while, missed you guys :laugh:. I've got a 89 mk2 16v 1.8. I'm thinking the engine mounts are going bad or are bad. Let me know what you think. When accelerating, it sounds like the down pipe is trying to come through the floor pan. shifting is tough, hard to put in 1st gear, but goes into each gear when shifting with some resistance. The transmmission has just been rebuilt within the last 4 months, When in gear and goosing the throttle the shift lever movesforward & backwards knocking happens on the passenger side floor pan where your feet sit :huh:. are these some of the signs that the mounts have thrown in the towel? who would have good replacements at a fair price. :undecided: cheers mates.
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gsf or avs, go for the cheaper bonded rubber front and gearbox to start with, if it still has movement do the rear engine mount. I'd go for the more expensive 16v/G60 one
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gsf or dvs? :huh: what are those I'm bad with abrev. Also my a/c compressor what do I need to elemite it? i've got vbelts, do I get a longer belt or is there a way to relocate the altinator bracket? Or is it just a bolt on transfer what is the site or link w/ pics.
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German Swedish French - nationwide auto factor.
Or EuroCarParts.
It may be that the engine and gearbox have been settled too far back on the mounts after the transmission was out. Loosen the mounting bolts and hoick the unit forwards, then re-tighten the bolts and see if that makes any difference.
If it's only been doing it since a rebuild, I'd take it to the place that did the rebuild, if they installed it.
If you do replace the mounts, go 1.3 Golf back gearbox mount, standard front mount and Corrado G60 rear engine mount - nice tight set up.
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http://www.gsfcarparts.com
http://www.vwspares.co.uk
as for a/c removal, the alternator bracket & pulley setup needs to be swapped for a non-a/c 16v one, also bear in mind PAS/non-PAS alternator brackets are also different. I dont think you'll have much trouble finding someone who wants to swap with you though ;)
16v & G60 (and corrado) rear engine mount:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=607
1.3 (and late 16v) bonded rubber gearbox mount:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=786
1.3 & 16v bonded rubber front mount:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=784
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Thanks for the information. that'll point me in a good direction. Now if some one wants to trade brackets a/c to non a/c, who knows I might let the compressor and system under the hood go for a fair price. The a/c clutch needs to be replaced. Other than that I believe the system should be ok, still sealed up.pm me or post. good day mates, Mike.
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pm mattneck/beavis on here, I gave him a load of kr +pas brackets, but I dont know if he sold em on since. other option for you is to convert to a mk3 alt/pas setup, you can use everything from a 1.8-2.0 8v, but you need an ABF 2.0 16v crank pulley for the belts to line up.
(http://vwtech.no-ip.info/images/golf/engine4.jpg)
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I had sme prob, wen i change gear it felt lyk the engine was gna cum out n attack me so wa i did was get sum1 2 look at the engine while i started it up, so by luck i changed the front mount that has made the engine more stiffer n now it dnt wna attack me :grin: but as i didnt do it in time my down pipe is blowin the flexijoin get it replaced asap then ul find out what the next prob is.
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hey mates,thanks for the feed back. I was looking around for inexpensive repair or a way to posibly firm up the mounts untill I could go the really nice way. My brother suggested window weld. "I asked him what or why for the mounts? a inexpansive way to repair the mounts & stiffen them up at the same time. come to find out it's a polyurithane. :huh: :shocked:(polyurithane) + mounts. So I looked around to research this suggestion, come to find out it's done to help out mounts to filll in the gaps in the mounts = stiffness. So I'm going to try this since alot of fwd guys use it in place of the really expensive stuff. Please don't lench me up.... honda drivers do this and swear by it. even the big hp guys. so I picked some up at the parts house, for about 17 dollars it's worth a try. I'll let you all know how this goes. Good or bad. I also found out that the UK guys can use a 2 part epoxy (loctight makes it), because the window stuff is not avialable or hard to find. Cheers. ps I probably am late on the info. That's what happens when I quit racing on the streets 6 years ago. I'm getting old. cheers
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also seen this done on the vortex, but only on the early type front mount. trouble with the late mounts is its not so easy to get the stuff in! The rear mount I guess it would be doable but its a lot of work to remove it for potential fail :)
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I'm willing to attempt this, if this is a pull out the engine job then I'll wait and get the energy suspention or other urithane mounts and go the less hassle route. I will deffinatlly keep your suggestion in mind. How hard is it to remove the front and rear mount. I believe I'm having a engine rotation problem. The exaughst is hitting the floor pan. On the other hand I got my shifting proble sorted. I missed the hole on the front mount tooo low through the rubber and not the bolt hole. Now it's totaly different shifting the gears no binding or hard to put in gear. If it dosn't work then the wife's neon will get a better upper mount. :laugh: cheers mates.
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the front mount is easy, undo the nut in the top, jack engine up till it lifts off the mount. go underneath, remove the 2 bolts and jack engine up higher till the mount can be removed :)
I put the jack under the gearbox, take care with the placement so it cant slip off. Theres a handy lug on the bottom which I use :)
gearbox mount is a bit more tricky but still doable. Pop the expansion tank off its mounts, stuff it to 1 side (leave coolant pipes on) This gives lots more clearance. Now remove the big bolt thru the middle, and the smaller bolts either side holdign the mount to the subframe, if you can get to them. Next look at the gearbox, note there is an alloy bracket bolted to it, with a small metal linkage, with 2 ball ends. Pop the plastic link rods off it, move them out of the way.
Now jack the gearbox side up as high as it will go, watch the chassis leg! Now go back to the alloy bracket, there are 3 bolts thru the side of it, the bolt heads are on the driver side of the diff housing (big sticky out bit where the driveshafts go) remove these bolts and the alloy bracket will come off.
Now you have enough room to remove the gearbox mount, even if its the large hydro one, and swap in your replacement :)
The rear engine mount is the hardest one, but still doable with engine fitted. I'd leave this one till last, its usually the front and the gearbox ones that go.
Go underneath the car and there are 2 17mm bolts holding the bottom of the mount/base bracket to the subframe. Loosen these, then lift the engine till it comes off the subframe. Now go round the back of the engine, there are 4 bolts holding the rear engine mount bracket to the engine, try to undo these, if ytou can then the whole bracket & mount will lift out together. If you cant get the bolts out then undo the 3 bolts holding the mount to the engine bracket, and lift the engine till there is clearance.