GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: richard s on 16 January 2009, 21:37
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im doing cam belt soon and want to double check about the timing afterwards
1 set crank to tdc
2 set cam with mark on sprocket and housing
3 set rotor arm to notch on dizzy
once that is done and belt is tensioned
set timing to 6 degrees before tdc by adjusting dizzy
is this correct or do i set crank to 6 degrees before tensioning belt
cheers
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If everything lines up both before and after the job, then theoretically, you should not need to re-time the ignition.
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get engine running, wait till fancomes on, dissconect temp sender, connect timing light, do the sequence of revs to put ecu in setup mode . hold engine to required revs and adjust timeing to 6 degrees.
look in info and mantance for detailed destructions
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i didnt read the last bit about revving to 2.5k
so when piston at top the little mark in flywheel should be aligned (theoretically)and when blue temp disconnected and revved to 2.5k the 6deg mark will be aligned
is that right because when i fitted engine i set crank to 6deg mark then fitted and tensioned belt then called a mobile tuner to do emissions and to be honest i get bad mpg and it doesnt seem to go like a gti should
so i just wanna double check that im doing it right before i fit new belt as im being a bit fick at the
cheers
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yes the ignition timing MUST be set at 2.25k rpm. The whole rev 3 times over 3k thing is only for setting the idle & CO, this doesnt have to be done when setting the ign timing. I think this could mess up the ign timing as reving it over 3k 3 times puts the ecu in setup mode, so i dont know if the ign advance would end up wrong there...
either way I bet the mobile tuner didnt know about the rev over 3k thingeither, so the co probably isnt right either!
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cheers going to fit belt tomorrow as weather looks ok
as for co it probably is wrong but passes mot so i may leave it for now as mot is due or see if they will let me use their machine to set it
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done cambelt this afternoon but havnt had timing light on it yet also when i pulled no1 plug it was black so looks like it needs co setting up too
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Any chance you could take a few photos and step by step it. Other stuff on here seems too difficult for me to understand.
Cheeky I know but I'll love ya forever. :laugh: :laugh:
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hi mate if you look at top of mk2 section their is a maintenance section and a good write up is in there with some pictures
as for me getting pictures onto here i dont know how to :embarassed:
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Fair enough mate.
I've looked at that one and it's all blah blah blah to me!!! :embarassed:
I'll do some more research.
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Fair enough mate.
I've looked at that one and it's all blah blah blah to me!!! :embarassed:
I'll do some more research.
Set the crank so that No.1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. There is a notch on the crankshaft pulley, and this should line up at its closest point to a similar notch on the pulley on the intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft drives the ouil pump and the distributor. At this point, the rotor arm should be pointing to a notch on the distributor case.
The cam shaft pulley has a punch mark on the back of it and this should be level with the top of the rocker cover. You then fit the belt and tension. Check, re-check and check again that everything is lined up as you tension the belt. The belt tension should be so that you can, with a little force, be able to twist it 90 degrees with your thumb and finger at its longest run between two pullies.
Once everything is put back to normal, re-time the engine ignition. To do this, you need to start the engine and let it run until the engine is up to temp. Switch off engine, and disconnect the fan switch. Start engine and remove the connector to your blue temp sensor with engine running. Time the engine at 2500rpm and adjust as necessary. The timing marks are in the little apperture in the bell housing. There is a pointer on the bell housing and a notch in the flywheel (It would be a good idea to paint these marks with tipex or something like that so that you can see them properly in the strobe). The engine ignition should be set to 6 degrees advanced, at 2500 rpm.Once done, reconnect the blue sensor and cooloing fan. (Be carefull here. The fan may start as soon as you connect it.) Tighten distributor and drive! :smiley:
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as stated above but with a bit of faffing on crank and cam as mine kept moving out of alignment when tensioner tightened but they lined up in the end its just a case of moving them off their marks a bit and then tighten and check if still out adjust and tighten again till you get it right
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I've seen photo's of a green cover that I'm assuming is the bell housing marker but I can't locate it on my car.
I also don't understand the 6 degrees bit. All the rest is making more sense to me now though.
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I've seen photo's of a green cover that I'm assuming is the bell housing marker but I can't locate it on my car.
I also don't understand the 6 degrees bit. All the rest is making more sense to me now though.
The 6 degree is the angle before TDC on the compression stroke that the spark plug needs to fire at. This is required so that peak cylinder pressure occurs just after TDC for maximum efficiency. You have to realise that the charge in the cylinders does not explode, but burns, and this burning takes time. As the burn takes place, the pressure within the cylinder increases due to heat, with optiminum pressure occurring just after TDC, when the piston is just starting its downward stroke.
For my next lecture, we will be looking at................... :nerd:
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How do you know if it's 6 degrees? And which way is advanced?
Don't think you realise how easily confused I am. :undecided:
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the green cap should be on top of the gearbox bellhousing, next to the engine block. You may or may not have one, or it might be white rather than green. Once you unscrew this you can see the flywheel, helpfully VW have put a TDC mark on the fly to line up the timing belt, and also put a 6 degree mark on there for you so you can time it up using a bog std strobve timing light. If you look in my digifant FAQ, I have a picture of the 2 marks on the flywheel as seen through the inspection hole
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Cheers Guys.
I have had a look at your how to Rubjonny. Just needed a few things clearing up. It's starting to make good sense now so cheers. :smiley:
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I haam planning a more complete and also more generic timing FAQ, for setting up static timing. I need a few more pictures to complete it though!
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Look forward to reading it mate.
Can't believe the amount of effort you put into this forum.
:cool:
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The whole rev 3 times over 3k thing is only for setting the idle & CO, this doesnt have to be done when setting the ign timing. I think this could mess up the ign timing as reving it over 3k 3 times puts the ecu in setup mode, so i dont know if the ign advance would end up wrong there...
I had problems when i revved it over 3k and then adjusted the timing. Im still not happy with mine. Its just doesnt feel right?
What sort of pics do you need Jonny? Timing light ones etc?
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Yeah I'm not sure if reving it over 3k 3 times will mess up the ign timing as it puts the ECU into setup mode. Not sure if that will effect the ammount of ignition advance thus throwing the marks out at 2.25k rpm? I've always done it just disconnecting the blue sensor, the over 3k 3 times thing is only for doing the idle & co.
I need pics of the cam front OT and rear notch/punch mark and dizzy timing marks on an 8v engine, I dont have one anymore!
Also a pic of cam lobes on #1 would be nice :)