GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Ben Lessani on 12 January 2009, 00:48
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Hey guys,
I've searched to death but can't find 100% definitive information. I'm wanting a little information about all this engine changing business. From a whole bunch of reading (correct me if I'm wrong), but there's a few different variations on how people go about this,
The ABF is a 2.0l 16v and runs on an electronic fuelling system (Motronic), as standard produces around 150 BHP.
The KR is a 1.8l 16v and runs on a mechanical fuelling system (K-Jet), as standard produces around 140 BHP
Those that are currently running digifant systems benefit from merging the two looms, and swapping out the block and head from the ABF and have the option to retain the 020 or upgrade to the 02A from a Toledo.
But those with a KR can use their existing head and fuel management, but simply swap out the larger 2.0l block? Which as an end result produces around 160 BHP?
To keep on track, is the above correct?
What happens with the subframes, I know you can move the whole MK3 and go wide track with uprated brakes, but then you end up with 5 stud front wheels. Can you still keep the MK2 subframes (F+R)?
Now, what about if you had an EV like myself, its a 1.8l 8v K-Jet. Could I just pinch the 2.0l ABF block and settle for around 10-15 BHP more? Does anyone have a link to a project like this? Or would it be more beneficial to ditch the entire 8v head and block, retain the existing fuel pump and lines, grab a KR head and bolt it onto the 2.0l ABF block?
Handy thread (http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=96345.50)
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abf's make more than 150 bhp when thers no cat, it's digifant 3 or 3.2
8v head on 16v block = fail . use 2.0 8v block like e2 or agg if keeping your head.
you can use mk2 subframe
no point swaping kr head onto abf
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Right, that's answered a few questions.
My system is already K-Jet, even still, would it not be a pig to convert fuelling to ABF?
I've read tonnes of arguments of the KR head ABF block and to be honest it seems like the benefits to having a KR head is if the car had one to begin with and that it produces an extra ~8 BHP over unmapped ABF management and that you don't have to mount the lambda sensor in the exhaust.
Was it RubJonny that went from an 8v EV to 16v KR to 16v ABF?
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you need everything from the bay of a kr to do it, but the pump & under car fuel lines at least are the same. zaust wise if you have the 6 bolt connection a kr manifold will fit, but if it was me I'd fit a complete 2.25" 16v zaust system.
ignition controller of a kr is a piece o piss to wire up, all the wires will plug in the engine bay. Only thing you need to do is run a wire for the fuel pump trigger to the fusebox, and fit a 16v or 90spec digifant pump relay. If you want the ISV as well, this takes a little more mwiring, but it only needs an ign live and an earth to power it up then you just gotta get the wires thru the firewall. Ideally find a pre-90 16v loom then it'll all be plug n play.
I went from a 90spec 1.8 8v to a 2.0 8v, then later fitted a head which was only fit for scrap due to me not checking it (yes I'm an idiot). I had to sort out something sharpish before it died completly, so I fitted the 1.8 kr engine that was supposed to be for the cabby I had in the garage and converted the car to full 90 KR spec. Since I had 99% of the parts this was cheaper than buying another head + new head gasket + bolts etc. Then later I fitted an ABF which was the original plan, just I didnt have the engine when I needed it! Other advantage was I swapped all my old 8v bits for the ABF lump :)
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I've gone from an EV to an ACE (audi ABF apparently) running k-jet. Link is in my sig, although there probably isn't that much information in there :lipsrsealed:
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Ooh handy! I think I'll just keep my eyes open for the time being and see what comes first. Not too sure the insurance would be best chuffed if my car was suddenly a 16v.
Mew, how do you find the performance on the ACE with K-Jet, ever had it RR'ed? I'll flick through your thread as soon as I've added my own updates for the day ;)
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if it ever gets finished im sure he will tell us! :laugh: :tongue:
expect a 0-60 of roughly 6.5 and 1/4 mile in high 14's low 15's
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What do most folk do gearbox wise, what's the pro/con to using an 8v box on a 16v?
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The rod-change gearbox diffs are made of cheese, so won't last *very* long.
The advantage of buying a complete ABF-powered car is that they come with a cable-change gearbox, which is stronger and actually designed to have the right ratios to suit the engine out of the box.
You'd also get 280mm front brakes thrown in with one of those cars, too. :tongue:
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You'd also get 280mm front brakes thrown in with one of those cars, too. :tongue:
LOL :laugh: Donate me the innards of that red blob you just stole and I'll put your 280mm to good use ;) I'll even throw in a pair of 8v hubs for your troubles :grin:
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So you're prepared to go from 4X100 to 5X100 too, are you?
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When and if I go ABF, I'd be tempted to. Wide track looks and sounds pretty appealing!