GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Goops on 10 January 2009, 18:00
-
Hey Peeps,
Been having issues recently when driving...
If i pivot heavily on the accelerator/throttle, the rev meter seems to bounce up and i loose power.
Also I set the idle to approx 900/100 rpm when the car is warm but after a journey it seems to idle higher everytime.. :huh:
I plan to clean the idle screw and throttle bits tommorow but pulled out the ISV unit as well..
(http://www.gsahota.com/gti/isv_1.jpg)
(http://www.gsahota.com/gti/isv_2.jpg)
I am assuming cleaning this can help?
I have some carb/injector cleaner spray lying around, is this sufficient?
Shall i just spray into the 2 inlets and leave overnight?
Not sure how to clean this baby from the inside!
Thanks in advance :smiley:
-
Cleaning the ISV with Carb cleaner does work sometimes but often if totally buggered then it will not work. The best way to check if it is working is while the car is idling pull off the black hose that leads from it going to the air intake. The car should stall if it is working...
-
Cleaning the ISV with Carb cleaner does work sometimes but often if totally buggered then it will not work. The best way to check if it is working is while the car is idling pull off the black hose that leads from it going to the air intake. The car should stall if it is working...
Another test is to turn the ignition on but not start the engine - The ISV should be making tiny tingly vibrations (ooo err!) if you touch it.
I wouldn't leave carb cleaner in the ISV overnight as thats a bit too harsh IMO. I use WD40, spray a load in one of the holes, cover it with my thumb and shake it a bit. Empty and repeat until the WD40 runs out clear. Repeat for the other hole.
I think someone on here has buggered up an ISV by soaking it in too harsh a cleaner.
Remember that after cleaning your ISV, the idle will not be perfect for a little while (say a few mins of engine running) until its dried out etc.
-
Thanks Peeps!
After a week in bed battling the damn flu, i got outside to the beast! :smiley:
The cleaned ISV in, and went for a quick drive, still got the power loss/over rev issue! :huh:
I am going to try new spark plugs and HT Leads tommorow..
Anyone used leads from GSF before?? or should i go with dealer item?
-
Anyone used leads from GSF before?? or should i go with dealer item?
Dealer leads are megabucks as you have to buy them separately! (When I last checked anyway) I bought mine from ECP and there okay (had one faulty set). Beru leads are supposed to be good from http://www.vwspares.co.uk/
-
Cheers Conker,
Rang the dealer - £109 for a set of leads :laugh:
Got a set with spark plugs from GSF, car seems to run cleaner but there is still a slight misfire/power loss..
Rotor arm and dizzie cap next week i guess!
-
mine got cleaned with some fuel left to soak...thats what i got told was the best :huh: dunno if that was right :undecided:
-
Just an update,
Did the dizzy cap and rotor arm in the morning.
The rotor arm was glued on and had to gently be broken off, not sure if an adhesive should be used on the new one?
:undecided:
Anyway, story so far:
- Cleaned ISV
- New Sparks
- New Ignition Leads
- Dizzy Cap
- Rotor arm
Car was still misfiring higher in the rev range, so went to a local mechanic to get the timing done..
Followed the kr timing guide and did it from gearbox end with the 6BTDC lined up with timing light..
Took her for a spin and was pinking slightly, adjusted dizzy to get about 5 degrees instead of 6, runs better but still got the misfire. :sad:
Gave up and asked the mechanic to take her for a spin... after 2 mins he said it is definitely the clutch that is gone/on way out and is slipping on the higher power curves :cry:
This is not a job i could possibly do on my own so it has to be dropped to a garage.
Anyone know what a fair price for the labour involved would be??
Ta,
Despondent G
-
Sorry to hear that. It's just one thing after another with these cars. I just had to spend £60 on a bonnet latch today because the old one gave up on Thursday.
Sorry i have no idea about labour costs, if i had to hazard a guess i would say your looking at 4 hrs work possibly, at £45 per hour (thats what my garage charges)
Good luck! :smiley:
-
...after 2 mins he said it is definitely the clutch that is gone/on way out and is slipping on the higher power curves.
Do you really trust/respect the mechanic? I'm no expert on clutches, but I would have thought a knackered clutch would feel very different to a miss-fire??
-
Cheers dudes,
Conker, yeah he is a sound geezer and I trust his judgement!
Guess its out hunting for a clutch then :sad:
GSF ones meant to be poo (LUK), and sachs seem to cost an arm..any ideas what standard part from VW costs?
Gonna have to drive like a granny till i get this sorted methinks!
On a positive note, the speedo now works and i didnt drop the plastic cog in the oil :smiley:
-
reason sachs are more expensive apart from quality is they include everything you need, replacement pressure plate bolts, release plate, spring, spline grease etc. LUK is usually just pressure plate & friction disc. The pressure plate bolts are VAG only (so far as I have found) so price up a set of 6 o those on top of a LUK clutch and you'll see the sachs kit isnt quite as expensive as you thought ;)
-
i can recomend black dimond clutches, had one for my rover, was pretty good! their disks are good too, avoid the pads tho :shocked:
-
Cheers John and Rover,
Any ideas where I can get the sachs clutch from?
Prices so far:
LUK - GSF: £80
Original Part - Dealer: £140
Black Diamond (from venom):£160
Sachs -??
-------------
Add 4 hours labour: 45*4= £180
Goto weigh up the costs for this as I am not planning to do any "super performance mods" to the car in general so a standard part would suffice methinks!
Oh and anyone in and round the london area willing to do this for me would be worshiped with sacrificial beer and lunch :drool: Hint Hint
-
www.vwspares.co.uk ;)
-
Hey Goops, seriously mate if you have any mechanical incling and have the time you can do the clutch yourself. I was way scared of going anywhere near a job like that and now Ive done 3 - they arent bad at all!!
I was lucky enough to use one of the ramps here at work so your biggest issue is getting the gearbox out from under the car but apart from that they arent really a hard job, just time consuming.
-
Thanks John!
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=728 (http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=728)
^^^
That looks the job, anything else I will need or should re-use?
What would you guys recommend between the sachs and the factory VW one?
George I would love to attempt this but the car is my daily driver to work etc and doing approx 300 motorway miles weekly!
Wish I had the luxury to take her off the road, atm everything has to wait for the weekend - with a gurantee of having the beast running by Monday Morning! :grin:
The car runs ok (unless I try peg it hard) but i can sense it will get proggresively worse..
Will ask the mechanic for a quote..
-
thats the one, only thing I recommend you do before you buy is check the gearbox code, to verify it actually is the original KR one.
The kit has everything you need clutch wise, but it is recommended to replace the pushrod bush and seal, as well as the input shaft seal on the gearbox itself while its out, saves a box oil leak ruining your shiny new clutch.
Release bearing could be an idea, but that can be done with box fitted to the car so you could leave it and swap later if it starts to rattle.
May as well chuck on a new clutch cable too if its not been done :)
-
I know it's a bit late now but I soaked my ISV valve overnight in petrol and that sorted the running problems (or at least it did until something else went)
-
Just wanted to revive this because....
I got the clutch replaced and now the valver is roaring throughout the rev range again wahooooo! :cool:
Thanks for all the help, topic closed! :grin:
-
working at a motor factors it's interesting what you say ref clutches...
i had a Quniton Hazell (moprod) one fitted to mine last july and working lovely. Borg & Beck are meant to be of slightly lesser quality but we dont get many issues with these at work. We also supply LUK kits which are dearer but (so we're told) are of very good quality. these are all 3 part kits (disc, plate and bearing).
-
Heard cleaning the isv works much better if you run power though (as in first click in the ignition barrell) whilst soaking it in petrol, due to it oscillating when powered. Anyone had any experience of this?
-
Heard cleaning the isv works much better if you run power though (as in first click in the ignition barrell) whilst soaking it in petrol, due to it oscillating when powered. Anyone had any experience of this?
Sounds like a fire risk to me.
:undecided:
-
Something less flammable than petrol *might* a good idea to 'soak' this electrical component in, if you're 'soaking' it.
Better to hose it with carb-cleaner while it is powered up away from the car.