GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: oakgreengolf on 31 December 2008, 09:27
-
If the 4 branch doesn't work can I use the ABF down pipe or do I need a 16v one
Also can anyone help me locate where this wire goes, its from connection bock f
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010594.jpg)
Thank alot
-
The MK3 manifold n downpipe will fit, you'll just need to find a way to bridge the gap between the flange on the downpipe and your front silencer. A MK3 cat bypass pipe would probably be a good start, but I dont know what bore the MK3 pipe will end at?
As for that wire is it green/red, and I asssume thats from the ABF engine loom right?
-
Yes mate it is the ABF loom. I threaded it all through the bulkhead and a came out of the connector. Havn't a clue where it goes now :cry:. Few other wires too i'm unsure about, ill tackle that when i get there. Also do you know if the cross member of the toledo will fit the golf as the rad mount will obviously be spot on. :smiley:
-
what year toledo, and do you mean both halves of the subby or just the rad support bit?
edit: I've just checked, for all years of toledo fitted with an ABF the radiator support half is the same as a MK2 one, the only difference is the engine support half allows you to use the MK3 style ABF front engine mount :)
-
the donor car wasnt an automatic was it?
-
ok I'm 70% sure it goes to F/9, which is for the rev counter feed. Can you check G1/12 on the ABF loom to see if there is a red/black wire there?
-
no not an auto, 1995. Yes just the rad support. I did notice the engine mounting is slightly different. could this be used too??
-
I've just checked, for all years of Toledo fitted with an ABF the radiator support half is the same as a MK2 one, the difference is the engine support half allows you to use the MK3 style ABF front engine mount :)
-
ok can't see red/black wire in g1?. Theres one in f
-
I wonder whether the front engine mounts make the engines sit higher or lower? might help with the 4 branch maybe.
-
i dont think they change the height at all, its just the ABF mount is a beefier design. Looks like it probably does go into F/9 then, check for continuity between that wire and pin 22 on the ecu plug :)
how are you planning to run your rev counter by the way, the ABF ecu signal wont work with the MK2 clocks. You can open the ABF coil and splice a wire to one of the terminals, or chop it out and run a MK2 coil instead.
-
have done pinouts if you want copy just drop a pm
-
Gone down the easier path of using the mk3 clocks and coil. Can't face any more work!!. maybe further down the line ill run the mk2 ones. Have just dropped the subframe and the rear mount bolt has popped out the top so its now in 2 halves, the thread has stripped. don't know how long it has been like this for.
Danny you have pm
-
cool, defo want to check that wire out then! I'm pretty sure its F/9 for the rev counter now, but you really need to check where the other end is before we can be sure :)
-
Another quick question as the toledo should hopefully be gong to the scappy in the next few days. Where abouts it the diagnostic socket. Is there one? :undecided:. Thanks alot
-
cant rember but the wire for it is the green one out the immob box
-
ok ill have a look tomorrow, danny p did you have any joy with those wiring diagrams :smiley:
-
it'll be behind one o the dash blanks, or perhaps behind a panel next to the ashtray once you open it easy to find though follow the yellow, red/white & grey/white wires, or follow the immobilisor box wires if it has one.
-
All i can find is this which i recall was behind a dash blank next to the steering wheel? Its not connected to anything now though :sad:
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010617.jpg)
Will it matter if i don't use it :undecided:
-
find the green wire and tape it up to something so you can find it at a later date but it's not required,
-
thats the diagnostics junction box, it should have been clipped to the top of the fusebox. You should be able to find a 2 pin plug that fits that block mixed in with whats left of the dash loom, follow that and you'll find the diagnostics plug.
-
Have kept all the wires ill sort it out at a later date.
Ive just changed the lower engine mount cross member over from toledo to the golf one. Its now all leaning forward??, are the brackets on the gearbox for the mount different, think I sold the KR one with the gearbox :sad:
-
the 02a front engine mount is different yes, it wont fit an 020 box i dont think? But then again its supposed to sit on the engine side so perhaps it will now i think about it...
easiest way forward for you is to swap the MK2 crossmember & mount back on, I use the bonded rubber 1.3 front engine mount plenty strong enough. If still a bit too much movement you can buy solid metal ones for cheapy cheap!
-
suprised you got it to bolt up with wrong mount,
engine mount wise mine is on G60 rear engine mount, 1300 ( late 16v same ) gearbox mount and 1300 frount mount. engine is nicely held much firmer than on the originals
-
Sorted it now it was right all along just didn't look right!!
What a lovely sight bloody hard work fitting it up !!! :laugh:
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010621.jpg)
Now have a slight Issue with the crank pulley touching the body, there is a bolt under the front mount this might have to be removed :sad:
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010633.jpg) (http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010622.jpg)
Manifold was made to measure
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010624.jpg)
Lambda probes done
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010635.jpg)
Bloody clocks are too big thought they where the same as the mk3's but are not, they don't fit in the dash so the mk2 ones are going back in ( passat speedo wasn't it )
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010630.jpg)
Bring on the wiring not my favorite subject though :sad: :sad:
-
It wasn't a Passat speedo, it was a Passat speedo cable.
Is that a solid front engine mount?
Not sure why you'd use one of those. :sick:
If there's rather close clearance on the downpipe you could wrap it with tape, to protect the rest of the car around it.
-
Thought you needed a solid one to stop the manifold cracking? There's no way the downpipe can be removed now so ill have to hope for the best :undecided:
My main concern is why the crank pulley is touching the side of the car, I know its wider but still. Good job I changed all those belts :smiley:.
-
hmm which main subframe and rear engine mount did you use? I used a MK2 subframe, MK2 16v/G60 beefy mount and swapped the bracket bolted to the engine for a MK2 one, theres much more clearance than what you have there :undecided:
A solid front mount will help a 4 branch stop cracking if it has no flexi joint, but if it doesnt have a flexi then it'll probably still crack eventually even if you do have a solid front mount! Main reason for a solid front mount is to stop the engine tilting backwards under hard accelleration.
-
I used the toledo subframe so I could just lift it all in as 1. The rear mount setup was slightly different however. I used the ABF mount. Ive got a flexi joint so maybe I could loose the front mount and replace it for an original. What do you think then will I get away with it, last thing I want to do is have to start changing rear mounts especially this late in the day :sad:
-
exactly how much clearance do you have there? I recon you will probably be ok as the engine doesnt tend to lift up at the back. What about the bonnet though, does it close ok?
-
No LOL I need to cut out a little where the trottle cable goes. Bloody steering column is different too! tried swapping the end bit over but its not the same where it mates to the wheel so i'm going to have to swap the whole lot over :sad:. Oh Rubjonny remember that green and red wire that came out of block F it ends up 6 spaces down from the thick brown wire on the ecu, if that makes any sense. :undecided:
-
hmm, looks like the MK3 mount setup must make the lump sit higher then! mates abf had no bonnet clearnace issues on the MK2 mounts. Oh well!
As for the UJ which end is the problem, did you not have PAS before hand? I know the MK3 UJ will work with a MK2 column and a MK3/late corrado rack, perhaps thats what you need?
as for the pin, I think you need to take a piccy, or I could send you my ABF wiring diagram which shows you all the pin numbers plus has a pic of the actual pin layout on the plug
-
Nealy there just a few things I can't find homes for:
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010636.jpg) (http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010637.jpg)
-
those are for the 16v KR isv control unit, which you no longer need. follow them back and you'll find it behind the centre console. Fetch reasonably good money too, especially with uncut loom :)
-
OK thats good everthing is plugged in, only problem is that red/ green wire
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/richjc4/P1010594.jpg)
according to fusebox FAQ wiring diagram the only red and green wire in block F is to pin number 5. Ive just checked this out and its already occupied. However i had to cut this lead to remove the loom from the car so not sure where this goes now. The wire I have spare in the pic above goes to the ignition switch on the ecu, not sure now whether it did come out of block F?
Ive tried putting the ignition switch lead that i have in F5, the car will prime and keep priming when you turn the key as if starting the car, even if you hold it there it will keep going. With the lead removed it will only prime once and not continuously.
So so close but no cigar. :sad:
-
did you get the pinouts i pmed you ?
-
yes got them cheers. The green and red wire that i have spare is the ignition switch on the ecu. sorry its probably plain obvious where it goes but i can't see it
-
you say you cut the wire, where does the other end go? and whats this 'ignition switch on the ecu'?
-
ignition live feed to ecu perhaps
-
ah perhaps. I have seen a few red/green wires kicking about in wiring diagrams, generally they're rev counter feeds. my thoughts are that wire needs a starter feed, so the ECU knows the engine is turning on the starter?
edit: sorry I meant rev counter feed!
-
When i removed the wiring from the toledo the green and red wire that was coming out of block F didn't follow all the other engine loom ones so I had to cut it thinking I could just reconnect it now. But I have no idea what it does or where it goes.
The other green and red wire is coming from the ecu ive now found out is the ignition switch start signal. Any ideas where this goes? Had a look on fusebox FAQ still unsure?
I'm confusing myself here as I have two green and red wires which I can't locate. :sad:
Which wire will need the rev counter feed. the ecu one or the one in f5. Also would I get the rev feed from one of the coil wires.
Your help is greatly appreciated by the way!! :smiley:
-
Maybe this will help:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3abfecu.pdf
-
All sorted now cheers :smiley:
-
so what/where was it?
-
First problem was the red/black lead was on the wrong spade connector on starter motor (at least I think this is why it wasn't trying to start)
spoke to danny p who suggested putting the green/red wire to an ignition live signal.
Only problem now is the water pump is leaking :sad:
-
so it is alive then ??
has been a really good read fella :)
-
Engine is alive just a few niggly bits to sort. all the brakes need bleeding. Steering column to re-fit + tidy wiring up. Bumper/ grill to put back on. Water-pump is leaking. Also rear lights are on permanently not sure whats going on there?. Bonnet needs a little bit cutting out underneath as its fouling on the throttle body. Need it all done by monday as I have no car for work. :sad:
-
Not going to be finished for monday :sad:. typical last caliper to bleed and the bleed nipple sheered off!!. Also the clutch cable is very slack not sure why though?