Author Topic: MK4 TDI.  (Read 28195 times)

Offline Bellend

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MK4 TDI.
« on: 03 June 2014, 12:59 »
TDI wagon not twit wagon.  :grin:

Can't find a thread I thought I had started. Oh well!

Started out a dirty high mileage MK4.





Bit of high-strength TFR and next to no elbow grease, jetwash and some plastic shine later:



Then outside:












Wheels before and after clay:



Clay after bonnet:



and general afters after a wash, clay, rotary polish, hand polish and seal:





Door lock never opened and when I took the trim off I could see a previous attempt which looked like someone had taken a kango to it!

Sooo:


After this the car got a bit used and abused and scuffed up again and it was pretty much decided to do up sell and get a brand new car or a Clio cup.



Then I decided no I like this, it's cheap and paid for.

I painted a light up:






Broke down due to hitting a brick in the road:





Then fast forward to last Saturday when the car failed it's MOT. Not as bad as I had thought, I'd have failed it on more but perhaps I'm too harsh. I knew the antiroll bar bushes were shagged as was a ball joint or lower arm bushes as the car was like jelly on acceleration and knocked like a mofo. :grin:

It did fail on a balljoint, CV boots and tyres which I left as I wanted it to fail so that I could sort any advisories to have a clean MOT sheet.

When stripping it down it revealed the balljoint wasn't too bad but the hub had worn out where the balljoint slots in.  :shocked: It appears to have non genuine joints and a very poor cast and doesn't seem to fit properly hence the play.  :shocked:

So decided let's do things properly so now have a tatty as hell Sprinter to fly around in while Golf gets some love.  :laugh:

Didn't think this effort was too bad for a Sunday afternoon starting at 3PM.

Worlds most awkward gearbox:


Subframe has to come out but wanted it out anyway.
Clutch is fairly high and I want to just do loads of work on the car so the GF has a decent car and I'm not worried about anything wearing out for a while especially once saving for a house. :whistle:

Haven't whipped the clutch off yet but on first looks the flywheel seems in perfect condition but I really wanna stick one in for £167 for a genuine SACHS as do it once do it right.



Suspension out:


Headlight pic and engine support. :grin:


Stripped driveshafts which are in AMAZING condition especially if they have covered all 167K.





Obviously given them a wire brush off and a paint up.

Ordered:
New coolant bottle
New engine mount bolts
New driveshaft bolts
New clutch
Timing belt
Waterpump

So far, TPS and euros are gonna love me.  :grin:

All genuine or equivalent stuff (I.E SACHS clutch kit from Euros).

Car has already had genuine alternator pulley last year and Lemforder axle bushes.

Plans are:
TT hubs, rack, calipers, carriers and lower arms.
Polybush front wishbone bush, stock R32/S3/TT rear bush.

Need a suspension kit of some sort may just look for a bargain one for now and save for decent.

Got my eyes on some cheap Audi alloys and will be looking out for a bargain stainless exhaust system.

Need boots and gaskets and need to find out if the CV boots are as good as Euros say they are if not genuine. Difference between £6 and £21 quid each!  :whistle:
« Last Edit: 03 June 2014, 14:53 by Bellend »

Where all my moneys went.

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Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI. Lesson 1 - Cambelt.
« Reply #1 on: 08 June 2014, 19:26 »
So since it's nice weather and work has been so manic I haven't had chance to touch it other than stripping out the flywheel which doesn't seem that bad at all and the clutch which again wasn't TOO bad, I decided with a beer or two to take it easy and strip the cambelt off.

This guide is using Laser Tools 3978 to lock the engine up but this engine regardless what anyone says CAN be done with tipex marks and personally I recommend Tipex marking the belt EVEN with the tools just incase things get messy!


Parts:
-  Timing belt kit with all rollers and the tensioner. Don't skip on rollers or tensioners do the lot! Get a decent quality OEM, Conti/Dayco or SKF kit.
-  Hydraulic tensioner OPTIONAL Part no.: 045109479B
-  Water pump, again don't skimp on this or the quality.
-  Engine mount bolts (just ask TPS or VW for bolts when replacing timing belt bolts for engine)
-  Coolant

Now you most likely will be using a jack but I have the gearbox and subframe out so I'm using an engine crane.

Start off by getting underneath and completely removing the dogbone mount and the oil level sensor connector if you have one.

Next, remove the fuel lines and coolant return line. I just whip them right off to get them out the way. Also remove the boost pipe by pulling the clips off either end just to get it out the way. I recommend using the opportunity to replace the seals on the end, readily available from TPS or VW.






Whip the AUX belt off by pulling tensioner back with a 16mm spanner:


Then undo the three 13mm bolts to get the tensioner out the way:


Then whip off the coolant reservoir, PAS reservoir  18mm engine mount bolts mount to mount, 16mm bolts mount to chassis and the 13mm bolts on the stabilizer. The 18mm bolts MUST BE REPLACED. They are one use stretch bolts.






 

THERE WILL BE A BOOST PANCAKE PIPE IN THE WAY HERE, two clips on each hose either end and a 10mm spanner will have it right off.

Lower the engine to gain access to the three horizontal mount to engine bolts. All 16mm and all MUST be replaced as per the 18mm ones.



You can also now remove the 4 5mm hex bolts holding the dampner pulley on. Personally I replace these each time but they can be reused. I just buzz them off with an impact but someone on the brakes and 5th or 6th gear will do it.



Remove the 4 11mm (on newer cars these are sometimes 10mm) bolts holding the cover on.


Now rotate the crankshaft using a 12-point 19mm socket until you can fit the timing pin (or a 4mm drill bit) in the cam pulley, you may need another person to help do this. There is also two marks opposite, one is pictured here as the other is impossible to see. It says 4Z in an arrow shape and matches up to this mark:


Note the rough location of the inspection window, the cut out with the jagged edges:


Now, mark the belt up with Tipex. put two marks on the crankshaft to belt just dabs on the end and three on the cam pulley. Also put one mark from the pulleys to the engine so that you can see if you have moved it about. You CAN just rely on these marks without tools but who hasn't got a 4mm drill bit for the cam? I DIDN'T mark it as I've done so many of these it's just a time waster to me but do it if you are a DIY'er.

Slot the crank locking tool in place:


You can double check this is inline by temporarily checking the marks on the dampner pulley, you can have done this before removing the cover:


Slacken off these three 13mm bolts on the cam pulley. Put a tiny paint marker on the bolts so you know the rough position they were in. Wipe it off when the job is done. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A LOCKING PIN OR DRILL BIT IN PLACE IF YOU DO NOT DO NOT SLACKEN THESE UNTIL THE NEW BELT IS BACK ON!!!



Now this funky tool:


Is to lock the hydraulic tensioner.


Loosen the 15mm nut and insert a 7mm allen key and rotate counter clockwise til you can slot the tool in.

Note, this is practically impossible without a long bar on the allen key so my way is remove it and stick it in a vice and CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY push the tensioner back in til the tool fits:




If you are replacing it like I will you can skip that step.

Pull the old belt off and remove the 3 10mm bolts on the waterpump:


and the 13mm bolt on the roller, completely remove the 15mm nut on the tensioner and pull that off.

Part 2 coming soon when I get me parts. It will include setting the torsion value (the three 13mm bolts on the cam pulley) with VAG-COM. If you don't have VAG-COM do not touch those 13mm bolts but you can never guarantee 100% accurate timing. I experimented doing tipex on a Passat and tbf the timing torsion value was 0.5 which is pretty much dead accurate but I managed to get it bang on 0.0 with the aid of VAG-COM.
« Last Edit: 09 June 2014, 00:08 by Bellend »

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #2 on: 21 August 2014, 15:38 »
Reserved

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #3 on: 21 August 2014, 15:42 »
So this is still as per previous post but I've just ordered:
- Audi TT Steering rack
- Audi TT Hubs
- Audi TT Wishbones
- Audi TT 312 calipers and carriers

Not quite sure what to do with the ARB for now but I will think of something possibly just bite the bullet and get coilovers now.

Also from TPS:
- Crap loads of new bolts
- Cambelt and waterpump kit
- New CV gaitor kits (bloody expensive)

Got a SACHS clutch and flywheel and dogbone mount coming.

Also gonna need new wheels but these can wait til after next week's VAT return. :sick:

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline Karmann

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #4 on: 22 August 2014, 21:21 »
Hi mate, I,m new here and see you are part of the furniture,lol.

I noticed the headlight refurb,and have some knackered mk 5 lamps that need attention,

Any tips on how to get them back to somewhere near those of yours?

I,ve always seen attempts at doing this  but nothing very successful,

You appear to have cracked it

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #5 on: 24 August 2014, 08:48 »
Fortunately I didn't crack them. :grin:

MK4 ones are glass and all I did was clean the glass.

I think MK5 one's are plastic. I buy and sell cars all the time and the most popular cars I buy are Clios with plastic headlights.

They all have knackered headlight so get an 800, 1200, 1500 then 2000 if needed grit sandpaper with WD40 as lube. I find WD40 works well.

Then they get G3 on the sanded headlights and they look brand spanking new. You can buy DIY kits.

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #6 on: 09 September 2014, 22:49 »
Calipers stripped and primed:


TT Wishbones and hubs primed:




Subframe now primed as is gearbox with a different primer.

Need to order a new crank pulley and some bushes alongside a clutch etc. Have the cambelt etc already.

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #7 on: 10 September 2014, 13:44 »




Bit bland so might tint the lacquer with some panther black and some BMW metallic blue I have kicking about to give it a fleck of sparkle in the lacquer.

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline SI74

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #8 on: 10 September 2014, 13:55 »
Some nice progress. Keep it up.

Offline Bellend

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Re: MK4 TDI.
« Reply #9 on: 10 September 2014, 14:02 »
Some nice progress. Keep it up.

Cheers mate, trying to but all starting to add up. :grin:

TPS had £200 off me today for bolts and seals!

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.