Author Topic: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge  (Read 6535 times)

Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #10 on: 25 March 2010, 18:22 »
right checkd all wirein also took dials out is the earth wire in the white plug that plugs into the back of the dials?if so that was ok also flushd coolent out and made sure no airlock also when i was putin my dash back the green light for the indicators was on faint and the indicators themselfs wasnt workin until i startd the engine then the light went out and the indicators workd!what would of that been?

Offline rubjonny

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #11 on: 25 March 2010, 19:56 »
the earth is in the white plug on the bottom of the clocks aye. the other faults suggest you have some wirign problem behind the dash, maybe check over all the fuses while you're back there?
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Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #12 on: 25 March 2010, 20:34 »
the lights are working fine for sum reason still overheatin tho :cry:also when i get up to speed say 70/80 it cools down to just over the half way mark
« Last Edit: 25 March 2010, 20:49 by bully85 »

Offline rubjonny

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #13 on: 26 March 2010, 12:33 »
hmm, if its fine when the car is driving along then there probably isnt anything wrong with the coolant sensor, i suspect maybe the rad fan isnt cutting in soon enough, or for long enough. feel the passenger side of the rad when temp gets to 3/4 and see if its nice and hot, if its cool then that would suggest rad is partially blocked.  also disconnect the rad fan thermoswitch and bridge the red wire to the other wire(s) and the fan should run.

also when the engine is cold, take the header tank cap off and rev he engine, you should see a good stream of coolant ut of the thin hose to the top ofthe eader tank. if not the rad or pipe is blocked or the water pump is buggered
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Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #14 on: 26 March 2010, 13:43 »
fan does cum on when gauge at 3/4 of the way pipe isnt blockd as water does cum thru nice dont think rad is blockd but iam on my way to get a new water pumpas the one in it was new but over winter trying to fix this the water in the pipes was frozen which i didnt know and tryd to start it and the belt snapd i wonder as the water would have been frozen around the pump and mayb it tryd to spin as i startd it up and broke mayb?

Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #15 on: 26 March 2010, 13:44 »
oh and thanks for all ya help so far jonny :smiley:

Offline rubjonny

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #16 on: 26 March 2010, 19:29 »
yeah that sounds like a plan dude :)
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Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #17 on: 26 March 2010, 21:05 »
got water pump will fit 2moz iam really thinkin bout swapin out the engine my daily is a mk4 1.8T  :evil:

Offline bully85

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #18 on: 28 March 2010, 16:49 »
ok when iam driveing along now its reading just over half but when i stop it cliams very fast to near the max i have testd the fan by brigein it and that works would it be the fan swich mayb?it was runin good all day just over half until i noticed that the pipe for the water pump wasnt on right and tryin to put it back on lost all coolent after puting new coolent in today its been runing hoter 3/4 and now even max when in traffic so mayb fan swich?also have noticed that the water is sort of brown again and the engine had a proper good flush 3 days ago any ideas?iam geting close to seting it on fire now! :cry:

Offline rubjonny

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Re: fusebox/overheating/temp gauge
« Reply #19 on: 29 March 2010, 10:51 »
if the fan doesnt cut in when temp gets over 3/4 then yeah id say its the sensor, or the rad is blocked. if you feel the side of the rad where the sensor is, once gauge gets to 3/4 it should be really hot. if its cool, then you arnt getting good coolant flow, either due to rad blockage or weak waterpump.

could test for a fan issue by running the engine up till it gets to 3/4 then manually bridging the fan. if the temp is maintained between 1/2 and 3/4 then you can be reasonably sure you need a new fan switch. if temp still goes up then you know issue is elsewhere
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