e36 M3 3.2 evolution

[tweed]

Welded oil pump nut


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Stuck the splitter on with double sided tape to see what it looks like


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New polly bushes


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And new balljoints


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Put in my studs as its a lot easier and cheaper using these than having loads of different spacers and different wheel bolt lengths. So obviously put on a bbs rc 042 with 245 40 17 tyre, that needs 20mm spacer to clear the coilovers. 
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Oh and put on the e46 m3 disc's and brembo calipers

[tweed]

Reinforced front subframe


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Cleaned up and sprayed

 
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As you can see this has one position for engine mounts and is 1mm thicker. Its a lot stronger than the others so if you have the problem I had look for this type of subframe

This number is 690802


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Little clean and spray on the arms


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Z3 1.9 quick rack with e36 m3 hose


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The metal plate mod
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Old belts. Crazy!


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Also spent some time cleaning under the car, bits yyou'll never see lol

[tweed]

Forgot to update this so will carry on from last update.

E36 vs z3 track rods. New items are lemforder.


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When fitting the rack make sure it is equal and your steering wheel is dead centre
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If you have no history of fuel filter change then put it on the list! These do not get changed in any inspection.
Replaced with mayle filter.
Thats 25.03.98

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New plugs


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Old plugs. These look ok?


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Quick spray

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Next was putting the car back together.  An absolute pig of a job in a little garage. Exhaust and prop etc was a nightmare with the back wheels only just being off the ground. 
Cant remember if i mentioned already but it has all new exhaust mounts/rubbers and bolts etc.
At this point of the build I had no choice but to drink plenty of cider made it a lot easier.

Anyway got the car back together, put some motul sae 75w140 competition oil in, Then cranked it for a while before connecting the plugs.
So the time come to start it. Very worrying at this time as i had so much going through my head about bottom end. Did i torque them up? Will it spin a bearing? Etc.
I turned the key and it fired straight up, no noises, not lumpy, i was over the moon lol.

Finally got the car out the garage. 


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happy with the fitment


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I couldn't resist no more and had to drive it. After letting it warm up I gave it a bit of right foot up the road and my happiness soon disappeared. The car just didn't perform. The vanos wasn't working. After a quick inspection I noticed the plug for the inlet solenoids was loose, so I plugged it in. Ran it on TIS and wiped all codes, took it back up the road and, animal

hh

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This is after the MOT and alignment

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Front 0.0 toe
Rear 0.2 total toe in
Front camber 3.2
Rear camber 1.5

Shortly after this i realised the car was undrivable.  Was a combination on 245 tyres the front camber. It tramlined everywhere and it wanting to swap lanes at 100+mph was scary. I put the front camber to 2.5, raised the front 20mm and put on some new goodyear eagle f1's.
It now handles very well.

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Next up was the refurb. Only pic I took lol

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machined the lips then hand polished. I stripped the paint off the centres. 2 coated with primer, then 2 coats of VW reflex silver and 2 coats of lacquer. 

And this is pretty much how it sits now

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Me and my mates at edition38

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all of us

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And here's the b!tch at the caravan at Wells

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next up are the seats. Ive got a filler and a scuffmaster kit to make them as new. After that will be H&R anti roll bars. Im thinking about getting nankang ns2r semi slicks in 120 rating too. Then hopefully ill get the carbon boot painted and put on sometime soon too.

[tweed]

Small update
15mm rear spacer. Need arches rolled more as they rub. Will get this done when I get boot painted.


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Next up was front anti roll bar. After searching and asking questions a lot of people said just H&R front, standard rear.


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The bar didn't come with front bushes, it was meant to and are apparently in the post, but in the mean time.


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Fits lovely lol bit to much copper slip maybe.
New mayle drop links


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next up was the csl boot lid. I wanted it painted first but with the missus keep putting rubbish in the spare room and using the boot as a shelf I decided to fit it before it got damaged.


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really needs painting, hopefully get it done soon. I'll be leaving a strip of carbon showing on the lip of the spoiler.  Still not sure on it yet.
Fitting was easy. Lots of drilling and grinding with dremal to get lock mechanism in and working.

Still need to do seats, just been lazy really. Maybe next weekend.

[Adam]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Foreveryoungaus16v]

Looking A1 mate

[LittleReDuck]

Mmmm carbon 

Love the colour and stance of this thing

[tweed]

Finally have sounds! When I bought the car I didn't even consider checking the stereo. 
After a little while I tried to play a cd and it only played out of the door mid tweeter. I thought it must of had a different head unit and PO must have quickly put a old one in. Turns out after inspecting the wiring, it had no speakers! I managed to get some footwell speakers and rear 6x9 from a fellow cutter at a good price.

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I have no idea what this is and whats missing?

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next I thought gearshift was still a bit notchy and heard about wrapping solder around the lever


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went for leaded as still 500 grams but in smaller/thinner amount.

Started off neat but ended up trying to most of it as high as possible to help the gear change. 


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[tweed]

Next up was a brake overhaul. 
Thought the yellowstuff where ok but wanted better and the haulfords 5.1 just wasn't cutting it for me.
Went for carbotech xp8 front pads


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With yellowstuff rear pads and rbf600 fluid.


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I've put about 2 litres through as im having trouble with spongy pedal at the moment. 
When bleeding rear fluid is solid and good. Both front calipers have tiny air bubbles.  Cold brakes the pedal is firm and high bite, but once warm the pedal gets spongy.  I'm thinking that the air is expanding inside as once cool its firm high bite again.
Ive ordered a vacuum bleeder and some more fluid. Hopefully this will sort it. If not I may get a AP brake master cylinder from MSmotorsport.

Love changing bbk pads. Much easier. 


e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr
remove bottom pin first

e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr


Then top pin and remove spring. Then slide pads out


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Push pistons back in calipers


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Do one side at a time, if you try to push them all in it only pushes a different piston out.


e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr

Put top pin in, then press down on spring and slide bottom pin in. Easy job


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When changing pad compound you need to take old pad deposits off the disc.
I used 120 grit sand paper.


e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr
e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr

At the same time I also took out the old drilled powerflex bushes and replaced them with the correct black H&R arb mounts. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of new mounts installed.


e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr

So I sold the square BBS RC setup and put on the standard wheels. The car began to tramline and understeered again. I knew I had to go square again but this time with the double spoke wheels.

Got tyres before wheels lol.
Federal 595 rs-r 235 40 17


e36 m3 evolution by tweedub, on Flickr

[tweed]

I bought two 8.5" wheels separately from ebay quite cheap. One was good and one was in a state! 


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I didn't take pictures when I sprayed the wheels. Its a job I hate! Well the prep work I hate. Spraying is the easy bit.


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Pretty sure the front has settled down after that pic.

I have 20mm spacer on front and 15mm on rear. Rear arches are rolled and no rubbing with the 235 40 17 tyres. These do messure 245 across too.

Also I advice anyone that fits R compound tyre to do a heat cycle first of all.
Basically you go out and drive as hard as possible to get the tyres very hot. To the point of them going off, then cool the car down and park it up for atleast 48 hours. I did a week.

I finally got round to painting the carbon csl boot. I know most people won't like it and I'm afraid to say I'm not too sure on it either. Would really like a high rise GT spoiler. 
Welcome opinions on this.


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Cheers Grant