So since it's nice weather and work has been so manic I haven't had chance to touch it other than stripping out the flywheel which doesn't seem that bad at all and the clutch which again wasn't TOO bad, I decided with a beer or two to take it easy and strip the cambelt off.
This guide is using Laser Tools 3978 to lock the engine up but this engine regardless what anyone says CAN be done with tipex marks and personally I recommend Tipex marking the belt EVEN with the tools just incase things get messy!
Parts:- Timing belt kit with all rollers and the tensioner. Don't skip on rollers or tensioners do the lot! Get a decent quality OEM, Conti/Dayco or SKF kit.
- Hydraulic tensioner OPTIONAL Part no.: 045109479B
- Water pump, again don't skimp on this or the quality.
- Engine mount bolts (just ask TPS or VW for bolts when replacing timing belt bolts for engine)
- Coolant
Now you most likely will be using a jack but I have the gearbox and subframe out so I'm using an engine crane.
Start off by getting underneath and completely removing the dogbone mount and the oil level sensor connector if you have one.
Next, remove the fuel lines and coolant return line. I just whip them right off to get them out the way. Also remove the boost pipe by pulling the clips off either end just to get it out the way. I recommend using the opportunity to replace the seals on the end, readily available from TPS or VW.
Whip the AUX belt off by pulling tensioner back with a 16mm spanner:
Then undo the three 13mm bolts to get the tensioner out the way:
Then whip off the coolant reservoir, PAS reservoir 18mm engine mount bolts mount to mount, 16mm bolts mount to chassis and the 13mm bolts on the stabilizer. The 18mm bolts MUST BE REPLACED. They are one use stretch bolts.
THERE WILL BE A BOOST PANCAKE PIPE IN THE WAY HERE, two clips on each hose either end and a 10mm spanner will have it right off.
Lower the engine to gain access to the three horizontal mount to engine bolts. All 16mm and all MUST be replaced as per the 18mm ones.
You can also now remove the 4 5mm hex bolts holding the dampner pulley on. Personally I replace these each time but they can be reused. I just buzz them off with an impact but someone on the brakes and 5th or 6th gear will do it.
Remove the 4 11mm (on newer cars these are sometimes 10mm) bolts holding the cover on.
Now rotate the crankshaft using a 12-point 19mm socket until you can fit the timing pin (or a 4mm drill bit) in the cam pulley, you may need another person to help do this. There is also two marks opposite, one is pictured here as the other is impossible to see. It says 4Z in an arrow shape and matches up to this mark:
Note the rough location of the inspection window, the cut out with the jagged edges:
Now, mark the belt up with Tipex. put two marks on the crankshaft to belt just dabs on the end and three on the cam pulley. Also put one mark from the pulleys to the engine so that you can see if you have moved it about. You CAN just rely on these marks without tools but who hasn't got a 4mm drill bit for the cam? I DIDN'T mark it as I've done so many of these it's just a time waster to me but do it if you are a DIY'er.
Slot the crank locking tool in place:
You can double check this is inline by temporarily checking the marks on the dampner pulley, you can have done this before removing the cover:
Slacken off these three 13mm bolts on the cam pulley. Put a tiny paint marker on the bolts so you know the rough position they were in. Wipe it off when the job is done. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A LOCKING PIN OR DRILL BIT IN PLACE IF YOU DO NOT DO NOT SLACKEN THESE UNTIL THE NEW BELT IS BACK ON!!!
Now this funky tool:
Is to lock the hydraulic tensioner.
Loosen the 15mm nut and insert a 7mm allen key and rotate counter clockwise til you can slot the tool in.
Note, this is practically impossible without a long bar on the allen key so my way is remove it and stick it in a vice and CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY push the tensioner back in til the tool fits:
If you are replacing it like I will you can skip that step.
Pull the old belt off and remove the 3 10mm bolts on the waterpump:
and the 13mm bolt on the roller, completely remove the 15mm nut on the tensioner and pull that off.
Part 2 coming soon when I get me parts. It will include setting the torsion value (the three 13mm bolts on the cam pulley) with VAG-COM. If you don't have VAG-COM do not touch those 13mm bolts but you can never guarantee 100% accurate timing. I experimented doing tipex on a Passat and tbf the timing torsion value was 0.5 which is pretty much dead accurate but I managed to get it bang on 0.0 with the aid of VAG-COM.