GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 how to guides + info => Topic started by: Wazzzer on 18 February 2012, 16:42
-
Right thought I'd just let you know how I did it and it works a treat
First of all order yourself a 10w 330ohm resistor from RS Components or they can be sourced from ebay but I didn't want to wait
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/160-382/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=330ohm+resistor+10w&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&_odkw=330ohm+resistor&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
Another thing you might want to think about is possibly using the spare take off that you will have on the throttle housing as a source for a boost gauge. If you want to do this you'll need a 4mm to 8mm pipe reducer, available from ebay for a couple of quid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nylon-Barbed-Straight-REDUCER-Silicone-Hose-Connector-Fuel-Pipe-Joiner-Water-/330685325127?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&var=&hash=item7dbdca683d
Now for the fun part.
First of all you need to find all the bits you're going to remove in the engine bay. Look for the carbon canister, associated pipework and the clips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12125002.jpg)
Next pop the lid off the canister and cut this pipe off right at the join leaving as much of the hard plastic pipe as possible. Then remove the rubber pipes and check valve from the throttle housing and the carbon cannister. Disconnect the electrical plug too
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12125455.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12125504.jpg)
Now find the bolts that secure the canister to the inner wing. They are 10mm and you'll be able to see one of them but the other is hidden under the bonnet release cable guide. The guide is held on with two screws, one on the wing join and the other on the inside of the front panel just above the back of the headlight. Once you have undone these you can slide it out enough to get the bolt undone.
When you've undone these bolts you should be able to pull the canister out. You'll probably need to give it a bit of a wiggle to get it past the PAS tank but it's doable.
Now with the canister out the way follow the pipe from the T piece back to the TIP. I cut this back as close to the TIP as I could and shoved an M8 bolt in there to block it off. I reused one of the clips from the pipe to secure it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12142727.jpg)
Now you need to turn your attention to the electrical connection. The resistor needs to be fitted in place of the solenoid on the top of the canister. You can cut the plug off and solder the resistor in place but I chose to fit it to the plug as it can still be refitted if needed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12142736.jpg)
Now for the petrol tank vent pipe. This still needs to be vented as your petrol tank will still want to let off excess pressure. I reused some of the rubber pipe that was cut from the pipe going back to the TIP for this and also a clip. Shove the pipe through one of the holes in the wing to vent the fumes under the car.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/2012-02-12142742.jpg)
Lastly if you want to connect the boost gauge to the throttle housing take off use the 8mm to 4mm reducer and route the pipe back to your boost gauge.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/WesRS/SDC14294.jpg)
As usual I won't be held responsible for anything that goes wrong, I'm only telling you how I did it :wink:
Oh and did a quick scan with VAG COM last night and no fault codes from removing it :smiley:
If you need any help just ask :cool:
-
Great guide bud :afro:
-
good guide mate, is it just to stop the clicking? :undecided:
-
I did it mainly to eliminate the huge length of pipe back to the TIP as the small S shaped part near the throttle body was starting to perish. Also it ensures only clean air is going into the intake
-
any pics of it taken out of the bay ?
-
I'll get you some tomorrow mate, it's pouring down out there now and the car is miles away lol
Great guide bud :afro:
Cheers Rich :smiley:
-
np wes :afro: good guide
-
top man wes :cool:
-
Its on my todo list, n this well help, nice one.
-
updated with pic of canister gone :wink:
-
resistor orderd mate :cool:
-
wes do you know how to code the evap system out altogether?
keeps throwing codes doing my head in
-
it shouldn't throw anything with that resistor in there AFAIK...
Might be worth a call to Nick to see if it's possible to do it...
-
so do you ust connect the resistor up to the pin that has the positive feed? bit confused on that bit
-
Is it safe to just stick the petrol breather pipe outside?
-
mine has just been poked out of the wing and is resting on the arch liner so it doesn't come in contact with the tyre. I also stuck a cheap breather filter on the end
-
Can you just go over exactly how to connect the resistor to the plug.
I want to keep the original plug, incase things go wrong!
-
There is nothing to go wrong, if you cut the connector off using wire cutters, leave yourself an inch or so per wire and if at some point you want to reconnect the carbon canister, solder the wires and heat wrap - job done :wink:
-
Done it! I kept the solenoid attached and tucked it under the expansion bottle. As this still keeps an electrical loop/resistance, will it keep fault codes at bay? Or does it somehow measure the flow or something?
-
Did you remove the metal piece in the connector? I had to use a alan key to remove it as mine kept ticking away lmao
I did the same but removed the plastic trim under the windcreen and zip tied it away tidy out of the way from the wipers and put the trim back on :grin:
-
If I buy a new canister will the ticking go away?
-
nope the ticking is the N80 valve in the canister
-
Just to add to this, I've just done this and it is slightly different on an AUM.
The pipe that goes from the throttle body and then T's into the carbon canister doesn't run to the bulkhead and along it to the TIP.
Instead it runs to a hardline that runs underneath the FPR, at the other end there is another small hose that joins it to another hardline which runs behind the coolant temp sensor. The other end of that hardline is joined to the TIP via a hose.
-
Done it! I kept the solenoid attached and tucked it under the expansion bottle. As this still keeps an electrical loop/resistance, will it keep fault codes at bay? Or does it somehow measure the flow or something?
To answer your question, what you did is fine. the resistor is only to make the clicking stop. this is what i have done for now, but i do have a resistor in the glovebox ready for when i can be arsed to do it!
-
hi how did you wire the resistor
-
when you take the plug off the carbon canister, chop the connector off there are 2 wires, connect one to either end of the resistor with a choc block or solder them :wink:
-
thank you
-
hi just wondering would deleting this give any exhaust emissions problems that would fail an MOT? hope that makes sense!