GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Charlieessex on 02 July 2011, 09:44
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Golf-1-8T-T3-T4-TURBO-Charger-KIT-/400209693412?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2e5b4ae4
is this turbo kit any good ? has anyone bought one ? what sorta bhp gain can you get ?
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very interesting, anyone?
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got the same turbo on my golf , 1.8t agu , the kit looks like its got most the stuff you need , we have used the manifold and turbo before and intercooler , they work fine and we made 320bhp on standard internals on a agu engine . but you need a electronic boost controller and you may need a few other little bits but that kit does have the bulk of it , we dont even use a oil cooler . but once my brother forged his bottom end with this turbo made 404 bhop
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is thiws turbo worth it ober the ko4??
cheers
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seems a very good price.. only thing that would put me off is that its not a garrett T3/4 turbo its a chinese copy.. but then again ive spoke to a few people recently running chinese copies with no problems at all.. I cant see parts fitting very well as 9 times out of 10 cheap kits dont fit well from my experience.. If you are willing to put the effort in to finish this off then it could be a good buy..
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T3/4 is superior to a k04... Toyosports have produced good things for many members. Look at the induction kits people have used off them, I'm even running there 1.8T A4 FMIC on the golf.
I do know there Turbo's are copies, but I've read no problems about them, yet I wouldn't want to risk it myself. Until more info on these being pushed hard and under some reasonable mileage, but I am very tempted! Considering how happy I have been with there products I may take the plunge as there quality has been spot on for my liking. Plus everything made in china now days meeting ISO standards etc, can they really be that bad?
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
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well me and my brother on both our cars have used this manifold and turbo , turbos lasted fine . and manifolds been good aswell , also we have had the external gates aswell and there good . you get a 6month warranty on all of there turbos anyway
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and it will easily make over 300bhp as we've had one up to 404bhp and its been fine at 27psi of boost . if your only going for 300bhp or so the turbo puts that out no problem at around 15psi
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well me and my brother on both our cars have used this manifold and turbo , turbos lasted fine . and manifolds been good aswell , also we have had the external gates aswell and there good . you get a 6month warranty on all of there turbos anyway
says it all to me :lipsrsealed:
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well me and my brother on both our cars have used this manifold and turbo , turbos lasted fine . and manifolds been good aswell , also we have had the external gates aswell and there good . you get a 6month warranty on all of there turbos anyway
What I wanted to hear mate, as I've used quite a few things from toyosports and have been very impressed, chuffed to say the least.
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yeh im using most there stuff to be honest , there front mount intercooler and pipe work :) its cheap and really good to be honest its no where near the price of genuine stuff and if the turbo did go , there only 150 to buy and a garret is over £1200 . so personally i would rather replace one of these :)
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interesting stuff :lipsrsealed:
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yeh im using most there stuff to be honest , there front mount intercooler and pipe work :) its cheap and really good to be honest its no where near the price of genuine stuff and if the turbo did go , there only 150 to buy and a garret is over £1200 . so personally i would rather replace one of these :)
Good to hear, I'm using there a4 1.8T FMIC as well as I wanted to keep all the pipework 2" (51mm) and ordered their pipes as well and made the rest of the install myself. So it's all good from there end and my experiences. Want an oil cooler next for a bigger setup for later.
It's like cheap coilovers if they brake after two-three years for £165 its not a big deal and I'd say they paid themselves well over.
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yeh thats another thing i have lol , they seem fine and pass mot's
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so
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T3-T4-Turbocharger-Turbo-A-R-50-27PSI-/400191270118?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2d422ce6
this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK4-1-8-20V-T3-TURBO-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-97-02-/400181219731?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2ca8d193
Oil lines and 38mm screamer pipe?
What else would i need?
Have FMIC, bigger MAF housing, 440cc injectors, would i really need oil cooler?
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do you have 3inch maf ?, with the 1.8t probe bit .
oil lines and make a return
water lines you block off as these dont need it
make a intake pipe which is pretty simple
electronic boost controller . aem. or gizzmo
custom downpipe
and you need a flange lazer cut as no where sells them for some reason
bigger fuel pump
oil cooler we dont really run . and its been fine
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38mm is fine with a external wastegate from the same place as the turbo
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so
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T3-T4-Turbocharger-Turbo-A-R-50-27PSI-/400191270118?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2d422ce6
this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK4-1-8-20V-T3-TURBO-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-97-02-/400181219731?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2ca8d193
Oil lines and 38mm screamer pipe?
What else would i need?
Have FMIC, bigger MAF housing, 440cc injectors, would i really need oil cooler?
Different TIP to accommodate the turbo inlet, 4FBR, uprated pump, EMBC/MCB, oil cooler not till much bigger bhp... all depends what your aiming to produce. Wideband Maf sensor and not just a 3" housing, as the Bosch M3.8,3 ECU's stock have narrow sensor. Also pipework around 280bhp need to be 2.5" at least from what I have been told. Higher up needs 3", not sure when the 3" pipework is recommended. Then internals become an issue. I do have some figures a tuner sent from VW for recommended max settings on valves, torque for rods etc...
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well my brother has done the conversion , and spoke to many tuning companys and they've all said the same thing , we use 3 bar fuel reg's and a bigger fuel pump , 440cc injectors , 3 inch maf , 2.5inch downpipe , no oil cooler , forged pistons and rods with , t3/t4 turbo , and mapped by rtech made 404bhp and its realiable drive it to work most days . but im not sure what bottom end you have but i know the agu has been proven up to 350bhp by jabba sport and boost pipes we use 2.25 inch
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i got 2.5 FMIC anyways so thats all set up, uprated pump will be 255lph walbro (in pipeline), 4BFPR cheap enough to get, could get a T3 flange welded onto that 3'' system i have, then 3'' TIP (should be easy enough)..
Bad ideas to be getting in my head, thought id be happy at 240 :rolleyes:
Would be aiming just under 300 to keep bottom end standard..
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sounds about right , but i would stick with the 3bar fuel reg
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Dave, another PM your way, plus you know you wont be happy till theres 1000lb off torque :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
Also whats the whole issue regarding the FBR, I usually have seen 4FBR or adjustable FBR's used in these setups.
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just alot of mapping places say use a 3fbr as the the bigger ones arent needed .unless going for massive power , jabba sport , rtech and sub 11 motorsport have all said the same sort of thing about everythink including the bottom end , i know on a agu its possible of up to 320 bhp at 17psi on standard pistons and rods ;)
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I remember the max boost is recommended at 20.58 psi, a lot of places allow a quick 21 spike or lower/restrict spike with MBC in parallel to n75 from what I remember on the stock engine.
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yeh i know the mbc's aren't very good on the 1.8t's i seemed to of got alot of boost spiking , but with a aem boost controller its great the mapping was alot easier aswell . and alot quicker , and n75 i know they can be mapped but personally i would get a ebc so you can go into different modes with different boost settings and there is a over boost alarm
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going to start buying some bits to make this happen, oil line?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garrett-T3-T4-T04B-T04E-Turbocharger-Turbo-Oil-Feed-Kit-/370523820981?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5644f0d3b5
Also another question, with an external wastegate, do you still have an actuator or is the external one opened with a seperate spring so doesnt need it? As the ones ive seen come with a 7psi/12psi/15psi spring etc so does this replace the need for the actuator itself?
If that is the case, where does the n75 outlet go to? A valve on the exterior wastegate?
Cheers :laugh:
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Believe you don't need the actuator as the screamer acts like an atmospheric DV on the exhuast gases if my knowledge serves me correct, which allows the turbo to release and spool down.
I will be heading down this road after this gentleman's experience, especially once I get my MIG welder, think the complete kit works out cheaper dave, and you can claim some money back by selling the bits you don't need like the additional FMIC, Oil cooler (worth a bit) etc... Just an idea :undecided:
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What i was thinking tbh, once ive sold KO3s (£200ish) Forge actuator (£80?) and downpipe and sports cat (£100-£200) i should be well on the way without actually spending that much :smiley:
We need to talk about TIP's golf-sib :wink:
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the wastegate (external replaces the standard one on a ko3 , or whatever turbo you have , depends what boost you are running if you running over 15psi of boost you need a 15psi spring . and the hose from the n75 which normally goes to teh standard wastegate goes to the side of the external and them leave the top for atmosphere . but a electronic boost controller is alot better to use rather than the n75 valve
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Thats what I thought as I see a manifold with the screamer split on it and a little nozzle where the 3mm vacuum piping goes like it does to the actuator.
n75 is not bad but it really needs the aid of the MBC especially when you are pushing your internals to the limit, last thing you want is overboosting or spikes with silly power. It also is handy to switch between silly power and casual driving power.
How you coping with that screamer, I've heard mixed responses with them due to noise, obviously the MOT tester decides if he thinks its to noisy same with exhausts and can fail you, mr plod if he deems it too noisy can annoy you but its down to the individual and what they deem as "too noisy".
I heard some people lengthen the pipe and make it bendy, others have put a silencer on...
Also with the eMBC, when on the lower settings, is it considerably less noisy or really no different.
Yep the TIP needs discussing, think fabricating it with mild steel is what I will be doing. But I think this project will kick start in a few months as I'm moving into the house I just bought. Already a huge to do list for the house let alone the car :grin: :grin: :grin:
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screamer is loud but only when your giving it alot . normal driving you cant hear it . i tried a mbc and it was spiking and would never work , best bets to take all the pipes off the n75 and use a exlextronic bosot controller . lower boost the louder it screams
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my MBC only leaves two pipes blocked off and only leaves the terminal on the TIP. As I have some diagrams somewhere where you can set up the MBC in two ways, on way where you override the n75 and control the boost with the mbc or you can set it up in parallel and eliminate the spike. Is the eMBC kits similar as I haven't really looked at them?
Also where are good places to exhuast the screamer pipe? You've obviously use the wing but your turbo is close to the wing which gives you that advantage.
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you can either have it straight to the floor which is easier on those manifolds . or you can connect it into the dowpipe
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dave sorry to hi jack the thread when you come to selling the actuator give me a pm i might be interested will it work on ko4?? thats the road im going down i hate the sound of screamer pipe soiunds like a bag of spanners in the engine
cheers
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also the t4 turbo is there more power going this way to the ko4 tuebo
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t4 is superior :)
Pretty sure ko4 runs out off puff around 265bhp.
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umm i seen that nick has just done a ko4s so im stuck
also i read the t3 and t4 turbos dont last long on the 1.8t engines!!
dont you have to run a atmospheric dv with the t4 aswell??
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
agree, if people are buying cheap then its usually fitted and setup cheap, how they get the bad rep.
but if it blows your prob gonna be lookin at more than 140 when it sends its internals into your engine
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umm i seen that nick has just done a ko4s so im stuck
also i read the t3 and t4 turbos dont last long on the 1.8t engines!!
dont you have to run a atmospheric dv with the t4 aswell??
Nick did a ko4-001 which is a direct bolt on to the standard manifold. As Nick said you can overfuel and use the fuel as a coolant.
DV is your choice, you can continue to use a recirculating system or atmospheric.
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umm i seen that nick has just done a ko4s so im stuck
also i read the t3 and t4 turbos dont last long on the 1.8t engines!!
dont you have to run a atmospheric dv with the t4 aswell??
Nick did a ko4-001 which is a direct bolt on to the standard manifold. As Nick said you can overfuel and use the fuel as a coolant.
DV is your choice, you can continue to use a recirculating system or atmospheric.
007p dv needed not BOV as the induction system metres the air in the system and the ecu cannot take in to account the lost air from a BOV.
Cheap K04-001 was a direct bolt on, the only issue was poor settings on the actuator, which we had to setup correct before mapping. This was fitted to a customers car 2 year back and I still going strong now.
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have you got a k04-001 graph ??
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so the 2year old k04-001 was a chines copy and is doing that well?
What's your views on the oil cooler as it comes with the kit, a worthless mod or worth it?
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have you got a k04-001 graph ??
Only my OEM k04-001 graphs not the cheap turbo.
@golf-sib
I have not played around with oil coolers its not what we do.
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Just what i wanted to hear, better get the KO3s back off then :grin: :laugh:
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So the new turbo is still direct fit and has power if ko4-023?? I am being taking into doing this if all goes well Nick lol
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So the new turbo is still direct fit and has power if ko4-023?? I am being taking into doing this if all goes well Nick lol
My stock oem k04-001 is being pushed hard and making 262bhp with decat, fmic, ported exhaust manifold, its been running spot on since septmber 2010. But the way its not the way I would map a customers car, this is why I have produced the k04s (direct bolt on for kkk all ko3/ko3s) The k04s has a bigger comp wheel, comp housing and back plate to allow to turbo to flow more at the top end per shaft rotation, the stock 001 will easy produce and flow 330lbft at around 3200rpm we what we have donw its lose a bit of low down spooling and cap the torque to 280-290lbft then aim for 270bhp at the top and with out pushing the turbo too hard on customers cars.
So far I am at 268.5bhp with the k04s without any mapping work to the software, I also want to test it with a 3" maf and mapping I think to go any more at the top end I will need a Forge actuator to hold the wastegate closed a bit more as its cracking open under its own pressure.
On the road the k04s is mental, and will give the K04-023 a good run for its money.
I am going to upload the graph from my phone to facebook account in 30mins when I get home, so it you want to see it just add me Niki Gower to the friends list.
If some can copy and paste it to here that would be great.
ps
Remember I am runnig water injection for cylinder cooling so a lot of egt testing would be needed before customers start to use it at 270+bhp wit out water injection
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So the new turbo is still direct fit and has power if ko4-023?? I am being taking into doing this if all goes well Nick lol
My stock oem k04-001 is being pushed hard and making 262bhp with decat, fmic, ported exhaust manifold, its been running spot on since septmber 2010. But the way its not the way I would map a customers car, this is why I have produced the k04s (direct bolt on for kkk all ko3/ko3s) The k04s has a bigger comp wheel, comp housing and back plate to allow to turbo to flow more at the top end per shaft rotation, the stock 001 will easy produce and flow 330lbft at around 3200rpm we what we have donw its lose a bit of low down spooling and cap the torque to 280-290lbft then aim for 270bhp at the top and with out pushing the turbo too hard on customers cars.
So far I am at 268.5bhp with the k04s without any mapping work to the software, I also want to test it with a 3" maf and mapping I think to go any more at the top end I will need a Forge actuator to hold the wastegate closed a bit more as its cracking open under its own pressure.
On the road the k04s is mental, and will give the K04-023 a good run for its money.
I am going to upload the graph from my phone to facebook account in 30mins when I get home, so it you want to see it just add me Niki Gower to the friends list.
If some can copy and paste it to here that would be great.
ps
Remember I am runnig water injection for cylinder cooling so a lot of egt testing would be needed before customers start to use it at 270+bhp wit out water injection
to make a k04s, would you need a k04-001 or could you do it to a k03/s as well? also would the vr6 clutch keep up with this power?
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Sounds interesting, definitely will head down the t3/4 route.
Regarding water injection, any kits you recommend, as some information may give me an idea on possibly doing this in the future.
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Interesting thing with the downpipe, T3/4 exhausts at the top i think, not sure if you can get these any cheaper anywhere..
Pressume you would only need the 'U' bend :rolleyes:
http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/product.php?productid=730&cat=409&page=1
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@ Houston
Not going to tell the exact spec yet, as I have spent the last four month working on the turbo. I found not all parts are equal even in ko3s parts vary between batches. It's basically the aggressive turbine side from the k04-001, with one of the bigger comp wheels from a ko3s, plus machine work on the comp housing, wastegate and back plate. There is another generation comp wheel that I am going to try just to see if I can loose a more low down torque and give a even greater area under the curve at the top end.
As for clutch I am running the stock oem dmf and clutch set up, so cannot comment on the vr6 solid setup, but I have known the solid conversion to suffer with stage2 ko3s mapping in the past, but never looked in to why it was slipping under load. You need to do some research on the solid setup and see what people are actually pushing from them and where the peak torque is rpm wise.
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vr6 clutch slipping... first I've heard of it, why is it such a popular conversion as I thought the DMF wasn't that durable and the figures of the vr6 clutch where superior. Be good to find out more about this as I think this would be a shocker.
All interesting and first I have heard of it.
Alse here's your pics:
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/263570_2270389319114_1230030267_3642317_1205510_n.jpg)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/263823_2270384999006_1230030267_3642309_1188787_n.jpg)
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Cheers for adding the pics.
As for the solid conversion that was slipping we never found out what kit was used, oem, 3rd party or eBay solid deal kit. So I cannot comment on it until I actually use one or map an oem kit with big power. It's the low down torque where the clutch suffers slip. I know the cheap dmf kits from CAS slip with 225lbft straight out the box. My next clutch setup will be sachs fast road organic clutch with oem dmf
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Be good to know your findings as I am on the sachs vr6 clutch and ecs 14lb flywheel.
Any info on meth/water kits you guys running and are they easy to install and how do they operate (as in are they like a carburetor where as air flow increases so does the water, or is it managed by a separate unit that takes a reading etc?).
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The kit I had in mind to make had a pressure switch in the inlet which activates a washer bottle motor. then the water is fed to a nozzle that injects the water as a mist... The Renault 5 GT turbo has an adjustable pressure switch on it that can be used
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
No i have not BUT i have always been told, by everyone ive ever spoken to avoid Chinese turbos. Its not a route i would go down i want reliability and piece of mind - that's just my opinion.
But hay if you have tested them and say they are ok then go for it people :smiley:
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
No i have not BUT i have always been told, by everyone ive ever spoken to avoid Chinese turbos. Its not a route i would go down i want reliability and piece of mind - that's just my opinion.
But hay if you have tested them and say they are ok then go for it people :smiley:
like i said, the people who buy the cheap turbos usually buy other bits on the cheap, if a turbo goes pop theres most likely an underlying cause. also even oe turbos go pop
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Devils own stage 2 kit is the one I use, google it. Water injection needs to be mapped correct, Ie lean running fuel map strategy more ignition advance at peak cylinder pressure. Running the fuel at stage 2 or even stage1 12.5:1 / 11.5:1 will reduce power, but still give good cooling. I am running 13.5:1 under load from 3000rpm to 7800rpm with around 4deg more advance than any other mapped 1.8t would run. I am seeing ignition pull of 4-5cf at 3500rpm at 22psi, without the water injection the Ignition correction would be pulling +12cf, with loud audible knock/pinking and on the verge of piston or spark plug damage. I can thrash my car hard for 3 hours, then straight away lift the bonnet and put my face on the inlet manifold which will be as cold as a can of beef of of the fridge.
We also used it on a mondeo tdci with nos and managed over 100bhp 130lbft gains on the stock turbo, it's the water injection which maintained the power across the whole rpm range. Should be in the fast ford mag soon, once if the quickest 130tdci in the uk. :-)
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
No i have not BUT i have always been told, by everyone ive ever spoken to avoid Chinese turbos. Its not a route i would go down i want reliability and piece of mind - that's just my opinion.
But hay if you have tested them and say they are ok then go for it people :smiley:
like i said, the people who buy the cheap turbos usually buy other bits on the cheap, if a turbo goes pop theres most likely an underlying cause. also even oe turbos go pop
Or they run them flat out because they are cheap, I used to be worried about them because of forum hear say.. It was only until customer started to buy them and we did the mapping we found the units we where tuning where pretty dam good, even the xspower 65lbmin turbo which is flowing 500bhp at 1.7bar and it's said to be good for 2.2bar of boost.
Like I said I my first post if the buyer checks and actuator out prior then all should be fine, I say this because a guy on the passat forum brought an eBay k04-015 to me for a visual inspection, upon which I found the wastegate was locked solid due to the actuator being wound right up for some reason. I set the turbo up then fitted it to the car and it's spot on 9 months on. But..... If he had fitted the turbo straight to the car then I am sure I would have lasted a matter of days.
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Most things we buy nowadays are made in china arent they?? they all have to be made to a decent quality for people to be able to sell them dont they.. you cant sell something that is going to blow when you push it to the quoted figures they have provided? :undecided:
No steer clear imo
Have you have tried and tested one?
We have tried and tested many cheap turbos from ebay, xs-power ssautochrome and all made good power and lasted the duration. One was a T34/s5 running at 508bhp@1.7bar another 1.5bar 470bhp, T3/04e 404bhp@1.7bar(£140 turbo from ebay) k04-001 240bhp.
Its down to how they are tuned and heat generation, and even if it blows in the 1st year its only going to cost £140 for a new one, and not £1k+ for a oem.
Done right they are worth the money IMHO. :smiley:
No i have not BUT i have always been told, by everyone ive ever spoken to avoid Chinese turbos. Its not a route i would go down i want reliability and piece of mind - that's just my opinion.
But hay if you have tested them and say they are ok then go for it people :smiley:
like i said, the people who buy the cheap turbos usually buy other bits on the cheap, if a turbo goes pop theres most likely an underlying cause. also even oe turbos go pop
Indeed you pays your money you takes your chance :smiley:
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theres a t2871r kit for 1.8t for sale on ebay for £1500 secondhand.. yu could buy 2 of these kits for that lol
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Another few questions since we are talking about 300bhp mark.
What would you recommend a walbro 225 pum or a walbro 255 pump?
What is needed to be upgraded to reach the 400bhp limit?
Another question which everyone seems to be confused about is what is the rough limit off the stock internals of an AGU, I was dictated:
1.8T engine limits
About reving: VAG thinks that the safest is 6800 and at 7250 gives 1% more possibilities for damage. Also at 7500 25% and at 7800 75% (stock head, valves, springs etc
Rods: Keep the torque lower than 400-420Nm, and keep boost lower than 1.4bar below 3000RPM
Pistons: They can hold around 450hp and the maximum working EGT @ manifold is 1030*C
In another thread I see you mention upgrading shells, what are these shells you speak off?
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my guess would be big end shells
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my guess would be big end shells
When you say shells you mean sea shells or the bits around the crank, how many on the golf, 4?
Also any info on using a tdi bottom end for uprating? As I see it on a stroker kit that the bottom end with the crank of a tdi is advisable.
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interesting rod topic
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/111635-increasing-longitivity-engine-rebuild.html
New rods
http://www.intengineering.com/Rods/c238047-1-2/
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Conrods-VW-Golf-1-8-T-Gti-connecting-rods-pleuel-bielle-/170561727555?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b6456c43
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Eagle-H-Beam-Forged-Rods-Audi-Volkswagen-VW1-8T-Golf-/120654448083?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1790c5d3
Big end shells
http://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=ACLVAG1.8TBEBR
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-1-8T-Big-End-bearing-set-Heavy-Duty-series-/160549645126?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D380320835764%252B380320835764%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1185326711952573474