GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk6 => Topic started by: MA1694 on 08 May 2021, 23:37
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Hi all I recently purchased a 2010 Mk6 GTI. It’s a high mileage manual with 125,000 on the clock but the engine was replaced under warranty by VW at 45,000 miles back in 2012. The car has a good spec with factory xenons and adaptive DCC suspension. In the short time I’ve had it so far I’ve given it a full service, and had a garage change front drop links, ball joints and a CV boot. Also had tyres changed and alignment done. The previous owner had the clutch and intake manifold replaced.
A few questions I could do with some help on please:-
- The flywheel wasn’t replaced when the clutch was done I have no idea why. Is this something I should budget for?
- The garage pointed out to me that the clutch bite point was very low. They said it could just be a case of bleeding the system? What else could it be?
- The DCC shocks replacement cost scares me. How much can I expect to pay at let’s say TPS with a trade discount through a garage?
Thanks
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Evening:
First off I'm no mechanic, but I've owned my 2009 Mk6 GTI (manual with DCC) since 2013. It's done just over 170k miles. I had my GTI's flywheel replaced with a clutch at 100k miles.
This was following me asking the dealer to investigate what could be best described as a 'clonk' from the engine when I turned the ignition off. This I was told was due to excessive play starting to take place in the dual mass flywheel. It could be that yours doesn't have any play in it, or maybe the price of the flywheel part put the previous owner off changing it if it was only just starting to go?
I too was concered about the DCC shocks but fingers crossed I've never had a problem with them since owning my Mk6.
Cheers
Bluto
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Evening:
First off I'm no mechanic, but I've owned my 2009 Mk6 GTI (manual with DCC) since 2013. It's done just over 170k miles. I had my GTI's flywheel replaced with a clutch at 100k miles.
This was following me asking the dealer to investigate what could be best described as a 'clonk' from the engine when I turned the ignition off. This I was told was due to excessive play starting to take place in the dual mass flywheel. It could be that yours doesn't have any play in it, or maybe the price of the flywheel part put the previous owner off changing it if it was only just starting to go?
I too was concered about the DCC shocks but fingers crossed I've never had a problem with them since owning my Mk6.
Cheers
Bluto
Hi thanks for the reply and good to see another high mileage Mk6 on here! Also good to read that your DCC shocks are still fine, it’s probably my biggest worry about the car if I’m being honest.
Have you had any other issues with your car? Any other suspension components needed changing? As for the flywheel personally it makes sense to replace it when doing the clutch but I suppose if there’s no play then I can understand why the previous owner didn’t.
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Ive seen aftermarket shock kits some come with bypass plugs to bypass the system. I would expect these are now available seperate. So if you wanted to cheap out on the shocks in the future you could fit the bypass plugs and normal passive dampers.
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I've had all four springs replaced on my 2010 Mk6 after both a front and rear one broke. I noticed a rattling start in the front, thought it was maybe a loose bushing or something, then heard a big clonk from the back while driving. Apparently it's a known problem with Mk5s although haven't heard people mention it on Mk6s. Also my alignment was way out of whack causing uneven wear on my old tyres. Went to get it aligned but both tyre place and local specialist couldn't free the rear adjustment bolts so had to buy two new rear arms. So... quite a lot of suspension work for me unfortunately :(
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Ive seen aftermarket shock kits some come with bypass plugs to bypass the system. I would expect these are now available seperate. So if you wanted to cheap out on the shocks in the future you could fit the bypass plugs and normal passive dampers.
Do you have a link to any of these mate?
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I've had all four springs replaced on my 2010 Mk6 after both a front and rear one broke. I noticed a rattling start in the front, thought it was maybe a loose bushing or something, then heard a big clonk from the back while driving. Apparently it's a known problem with Mk5s although haven't heard people mention it on Mk6s. Also my alignment was way out of whack causing uneven wear on my old tyres. Went to get it aligned but both tyre place and local specialist couldn't free the rear adjustment bolts so had to buy two new rear arms. So... quite a lot of suspension work for me unfortunately :(
Sounds like some big bills there! Did you replace with OEM genuine VW? And what was the mileage at the time?
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Ive seen aftermarket shock kits some come with bypass plugs to bypass the system. I would expect these are now available seperate. So if you wanted to cheap out on the shocks in the future you could fit the bypass plugs and normal passive dampers.
Do you have a link to any of these mate?
sadly not as its over 10 years since i watched Steve Pound do this. Im sure if you look on google and search it out there will be a few solutions now. Especially for anyone who fits coilovers or airbags.
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Sounds like some big bills there! Did you replace with OEM genuine VW? And what was the mileage at the time?
Yeah... cost more than £1000 altogether. I did get genuine VW parts, yeah. I considered getting lowering springs instead at the time, but then remembered I care about ride quality a bit now so went with stock replacements. Mileage was only 70k at the time. No idea why they went. Seems to be just age related on Mk5s, and I guess Mk6 too.
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So had the car for a few weeks now. I have been doing exclusively short journeys 3 miles or so at a time. Getting around 20-22mpg. Does this seem normal?
I had the car VCDS scanned. Only engine fault code was for EVAP emissions intermittent. Engine management light isn’t on though. Anyone able to shed more info on this? Wondering if it could result in poor mpg.
The rear calipers don’t seem to be in good shape I doubt they’ve been replaced ever. I know that VW’s and Audis of this era had issues with sticking calipers, my old Mk5 and A3 had it. So thinking that could also be a cause…
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If your doing short trips of 3 miles that mpg doesn't suprise me. If in traffic even more so.
Evap depends what the code is.
Calipers jack it up and spin the wheel so if there sticking. If looked after they should be fine.
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Evening:
First off I'm no mechanic, but I've owned my 2009 Mk6 GTI (manual with DCC) since 2013. It's done just over 170k miles. I had my GTI's flywheel replaced with a clutch at 100k miles.
This was following me asking the dealer to investigate what could be best described as a 'clonk' from the engine when I turned the ignition off. This I was told was due to excessive play starting to take place in the dual mass flywheel. It could be that yours doesn't have any play in it, or maybe the price of the flywheel part put the previous owner off changing it if it was only just starting to go?
I too was concered about the DCC shocks but fingers crossed I've never had a problem with them since owning my Mk6.
Cheers
Bluto
Hi thanks for the reply and good to see another high mileage Mk6 on here! Also good to read that your DCC shocks are still fine, it’s probably my biggest worry about the car if I’m being honest.
Have you had any other issues with your car? Any other suspension components needed changing? As for the flywheel personally it makes sense to replace it when doing the clutch but I suppose if there’s no play then I can understand why the previous owner didn’t.
Firstly MA1694 I don't want to put the fear of car anxiety into anyone's heads regarding Mk6 GTI ownership, I love my Mk6 GTI. Best car I've owned. Puts a smile on my face. It's soaked up the 600 miles a week I was doing pre-COVID, it's comfortable, responsive and had the oomph when I wanted it. The process I'm in at present of considering a Mk8 GTI Clubsport or R is bitter sweet as I love my Mk6, but at 171k miles she's getting on a bit now.
As far as cars are concerned they're all money pits in my eyes. Such is the price of independence that owning a car brings. However I know that some cars are less of a money pit than others. Plus driving style, road surface repair, fuel quality, component quality, component design all play a part in a car's overall reliability.
So whilst informative, my list of Mk6 repairs of course doesn't instantly mean your Mk6 Golf GTI will have the same repairs required in its life. But I know why you're asking, as I was the same when I was looking to buy my Mk6. :wink:
So you asked what other issues I have had...
Back in 2017 my OEM flyweel was £508 + VAT for the part alone so not a cheap part.
The only suspension bits that I have had replaced on my 2009 Mk6 GTI since purchasing it in 2013 have been:
- The two rear bump stops at 134k miles
- Offside Front Top Mount and Spring at 152k miles
- Offside Rear Spring at 160k miles
- Replaced Front Lower Arm Bushes at 160k miles
I suspect that the cracked/broken springs were due to the lovely pot holed roads in the UK and random heights and condition of UK speed bumps. :rolleyes: In fact I know I hit a nasty one on the M6 that I couldn't see or avoid quick enough due to the volume of traffic.
At 140k miles when having new discs and pads fitted on the rear, both calipers were found to be seized. So two new rear calipers were fitted.
As for other "significant issues" in my 7 years plus of Mk6 Golf GTi Ownership:
- two new inlet manifolds, one at 41k the other at 136k miles
- new reversing camera at 59k mile - technically it was the wiring loom that had worn, then snapped due to the action of the popout badge
- de-carbon of engine at 64k miles and one at 160k miles
- chain tensioner 'popped' at 108k, so new cylinder head
- new rear main seal, new turbo and new sump pan at 160k (new clutch fitted too and 2nd decarbon done as the car's engine was in bits anyway)
As for the tensioner popping, VW eventually picked up the entire cost of the engine repair. I think it helped my argument that my local VW dealer had serviced and repaired my car since I bought it (not from them mind). Plus I had been constantly asking VW about this tensioner vulnerability on every service the car went in for :angry:.
I think I've had most of the Top 5 VW fails of the 2.0T TSI Engine as described by the Humble Mechanic on YouTube. :whistle:
https://youtu.be/xIyxT3r5Ps8 (https://youtu.be/xIyxT3r5Ps8)
Well except for water pump issues and coolant leaks.
Not sure if the above list is what you wanted to see :rolleyes:, but that's my personal (honest) journey of Mk6 GTI Ownership.
Still love it, still drive it as a daily, would have still have bought a Mk6 GTI.
Cheers
Bluto
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You didn't get your carbon cleaned when the intake manifold was changed? I imagine that would save a fair bit of money on labour. How did you know the intake needed changing?
When you got the rear main seal changed, did you change the PCV valve too? The PCV is a common failure point and if it goes completely it blows the rear main seal. I'm thinking of getting my clutch changed plus rear main seal as a bit of preventative maintenance, but then I'd definitely want to change the PCV as well. Looks like I can easily do that myself, though.
Are any of the non genuine PCVs worth going for?
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You didn't get your carbon cleaned when the intake manifold was changed? I imagine that would save a fair bit of money on labour. How did you know the intake needed changing?
When you got the rear main seal changed, did you change the PCV valve too? The PCV is a common failure point and if it goes completely it blows the rear main seal. I'm thinking of getting my clutch changed plus rear main seal as a bit of preventative maintenance, but then I'd definitely want to change the PCV as well. Looks like I can easily do that myself, though.
Are any of the non genuine PCVs worth going for?
Hi Borbus
If I recall in the dim and distant past, the first inlet manifold went bad (at 41k) with a check engine light pinging up on the dash. That manifold was replaced under warranty so I was not advised to have any additional work carried out -plus I don't think I was really aware of the carbon issue back then.
The second inlet manifold (at 136k), again I think that was a CEL. In that instance I did ask the garage to check the level of carbon build up in the engine. As having had the engine decoked already, I knew it would need doing in the future - the carbon build up was okay at that point. I also recall the second inlet manifold being of different revision/design.
Yes, when I had the rear main seal replaced the PCV valve was also replaced. I'd read up on that and double checked with the garage that the PCV replacement was part of the work.
As for using non-geniune PCVs, not able to offer advice on that, all my parts for my Mk6 have been OEM replacements.
Cheers
Bluto
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If your doing short trips of 3 miles that mpg doesn't suprise me. If in traffic even more so.
Evap depends what the code is.
Calipers jack it up and spin the wheel so if there sticking. If looked after they should be fine.
The code is P0441. Did some googling and it’s either the charcoal canister or the N80 valve. Not sure if evap system problems can result in reduced mpg?
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Evening:
First off I'm no mechanic, but I've owned my 2009 Mk6 GTI (manual with DCC) since 2013. It's done just over 170k miles. I had my GTI's flywheel replaced with a clutch at 100k miles.
This was following me asking the dealer to investigate what could be best described as a 'clonk' from the engine when I turned the ignition off. This I was told was due to excessive play starting to take place in the dual mass flywheel. It could be that yours doesn't have any play in it, or maybe the price of the flywheel part put the previous owner off changing it if it was only just starting to go?
I too was concered about the DCC shocks but fingers crossed I've never had a problem with them since owning my Mk6.
Cheers
Bluto
Hi thanks for the reply and good to see another high mileage Mk6 on here! Also good to read that your DCC shocks are still fine, it’s probably my biggest worry about the car if I’m being honest.
Have you had any other issues with your car? Any other suspension components needed changing? As for the flywheel personally it makes sense to replace it when doing the clutch but I suppose if there’s no play then I can understand why the previous owner didn’t.
Firstly MA1694 I don't want to put the fear of car anxiety into anyone's heads regarding Mk6 GTI ownership, I love my Mk6 GTI. Best car I've owned. Puts a smile on my face. It's soaked up the 600 miles a week I was doing pre-COVID, it's comfortable, responsive and had the oomph when I wanted it. The process I'm in at present of considering a Mk8 GTI Clubsport or R is bitter sweet as I love my Mk6, but at 171k miles she's getting on a bit now.
As far as cars are concerned they're all money pits in my eyes. Such is the price of independence that owning a car brings. However I know that some cars are less of a money pit than others. Plus driving style, road surface repair, fuel quality, component quality, component design all play a part in a car's overall reliability.
So whilst informative, my list of Mk6 repairs of course doesn't instantly mean your Mk6 Golf GTI will have the same repairs required in its life. But I know why you're asking, as I was the same when I was looking to buy my Mk6. :wink:
So you asked what other issues I have had...
Back in 2017 my OEM flyweel was £508 + VAT for the part alone so not a cheap part.
The only suspension bits that I have had replaced on my 2009 Mk6 GTI since purchasing it in 2013 have been:
- The two rear bump stops at 134k miles
- Offside Front Top Mount and Spring at 152k miles
- Offside Rear Spring at 160k miles
- Replaced Front Lower Arm Bushes at 160k miles
I suspect that the cracked/broken springs were due to the lovely pot holed roads in the UK and random heights and condition of UK speed bumps. :rolleyes: In fact I know I hit a nasty one on the M6 that I couldn't see or avoid quick enough due to the volume of traffic.
At 140k miles when having new discs and pads fitted on the rear, both calipers were found to be seized. So two new rear calipers were fitted.
As for other "significant issues" in my 7 years plus of Mk6 Golf GTi Ownership:
- two new inlet manifolds, one at 41k the other at 136k miles
- new reversing camera at 59k mile - technically it was the wiring loom that had worn, then snapped due to the action of the popout badge
- de-carbon of engine at 64k miles and one at 160k miles
- chain tensioner 'popped' at 108k, so new cylinder head
- new rear main seal, new turbo and new sump pan at 160k (new clutch fitted too and 2nd decarbon done as the car's engine was in bits anyway)
As for the tensioner popping, VW eventually picked up the entire cost of the engine repair. I think it helped my argument that my local VW dealer had serviced and repaired my car since I bought it (not from them mind). Plus I had been constantly asking VW about this tensioner vulnerability on every service the car went in for :angry:.
I think I've had most of the Top 5 VW fails of the 2.0T TSI Engine as described by the Humble Mechanic on YouTube. :whistle:
https://youtu.be/xIyxT3r5Ps8 (https://youtu.be/xIyxT3r5Ps8)
Well except for water pump issues and coolant leaks.
Not sure if the above list is what you wanted to see :rolleyes:, but that's my personal (honest) journey of Mk6 GTI Ownership.
Still love it, still drive it as a daily, would have still have bought a Mk6 GTI.
Cheers
Bluto
Wow! Fair play to you for sticking with it. Whoever you sell it to will have a looked after car that’s for sure.
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If your doing short trips of 3 miles that mpg doesn't suprise me. If in traffic even more so.
Evap depends what the code is.
Calipers jack it up and spin the wheel so if there sticking. If looked after they should be fine.
The code is P0441. Did some googling and it’s either the charcoal canister or the N80 valve. Not sure if evap system problems can result in reduced mpg?
Http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089
https://www.shopdap.com/blog/check-gas-cap-light-on-vw-and-audi-2-0t-tsi-engine.html
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MA1694 Hope you enjoy the mk6 as much as we have enjoyed ours. We bought one new in 2010 and still have it. Treated with TLC and not had many problems. Been garaged all its life which probably helped with the life of the discs and pads etc. The intake manifold is the only major expense over the 11 years and replaced with the updated version. Just about to change the front pads for the first time at 88000 miles. Front and rear calipers are checked and pins re-greased each year, oil and filter change every 6 months or 5000 miles and regular VCDS scans. VW serviced by local dealer and ask each year whether the chains were getting noisy! The VCDS scan has the camshaft phase angle difference at -1.81 at present but wondering about getting the tensioner and timing chains replaced as our grandson thinks he will get it before long! Had to de-rust and treat the rear suspension arms a couple or years ago as they seem to get a bit of hammering from road grit, particularly the offside and then 4 wheel alignment to sort some uneven wear on one rear wheel. Alloys still pretty good and lacquer holding out. Just bitten the bullet and bought a mk7.5 GTI with 4000miles on the clock. Seats are not as comfortable as our mk6 perhaps the old car has sagged a bit but but enjoying it never-the-less.
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Wow! Fair play to you for sticking with it. Whoever you sell it to will have a looked after car that’s for sure.
Cheers MA1694, well it took me a while to get one so I've tried to look after it. :wink:
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MA1694 Hope you enjoy the mk6 as much as we have enjoyed ours. We bought one new in 2010 and still have it. Treated with TLC and not had many problems. Been garaged all its life which probably helped with the life of the discs and pads etc. The intake manifold is the only major expense over the 11 years and replaced with the updated version. Just about to change the front pads for the first time at 88000 miles. Front and rear calipers are checked and pins re-greased each year, oil and filter change every 6 months or 5000 miles and regular VCDS scans. VW serviced by local dealer and ask each year whether the chains were getting noisy! The VCDS scan has the camshaft phase angle difference at -1.81 at present but wondering about getting the tensioner and timing chains replaced as our grandson thinks he will get it before long! Had to de-rust and treat the rear suspension arms a couple or years ago as they seem to get a bit of hammering from road grit, particularly the offside and then 4 wheel alignment to sort some uneven wear on one rear wheel. Alloys still pretty good and lacquer holding out. Just bitten the bullet and bought a mk7.5 GTI with 4000miles on the clock. Seats are not as comfortable as our mk6 perhaps the old car has sagged a bit but but enjoying it never-the-less.
Thanks, from what I have read and heard the Mk7 is a big improvement so I've no doubt you'll enjoy it!
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Managed to do a few more things on the GTI;
Replaced the PCV, fuel filter and spark plugs all genuine parts. Does feel smoother now. Although the mechanic struggled to get the fuel lines off the old filter just hope he didn't cause any damage or leaks.
MPG wise I am getting about 30-34 on my 9 mile commute to work mix of traffic and dual carriageways. £30 of V Power (~22 litres) gave me roughly 135 miles so probably not too bad.
Next is to investigate the rear calipers and getting a whirring/booming noise which changes on different roads. I am thinking of getting the alignment done again and checking the state of the tyres.
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I average about the same mpg in similar journey.
The noise is probably what they call saw tooth on the tread. Search google for more info on it. They do suffer it. Mine has in the past. An alignment helps reduce it as does rotating the tyres.
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Hmm thanks for the suggestion on the tyres. It's quite an intrusive sound on some roads i.e. dual carriageways.
Few more things I would like to address in the coming weeks;
The car came with replica 18" Monzas. I have always liked the original diamond cut so keeping an eye out if a genuine set come up for sale. Would be looking at around £500+ with tyres so I was wondering if I should just get a set of 17" Monzas. I know it would improve ride quality but the trade off would be looks..
Car has Dynaudio but I believe the drivers side door speaker is on its way out. Will try to get it looked at by an audio specialist.
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Door speaker could just be a loose connection. Dead easy to take the door cards out and have a look for yourself. You should get yourself plastic trim tools and a set of torx drivers. You could even fit some sound deadening material while you're in there which would increase your audio quality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzogLvgVmN8
The 18" Monzas are the best thing about the Mk6. I hope you find some. Mine are kerbed and not very shiny any more, but they still look great! Better than any new GTI.
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Ive got the 17s and 18s. The 17s have more bounce as the side wall compress more. If anything i feel because of that the ride is better on the 18s. Very little difference and tyre brand has made more difference.
Speaker could simple be bad connection in the door jam or speaker itself
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Thanks both think I will attempt the speaker job myself just need to buy some trim removal tools.
Both exhausts were incredibly sooty so some wire wool and autosol has made them nice again but already they are starting to soot up again. I take it this is due to the direct injection system on these engines?
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So just over a month ago I topped up about 0.5L oil as it was less than halfway on the dipstick. Few days ago I checked again and the level is just below halfway again. Had the car checked over by an indy and they have come back with a £270 quote to replace the breather pipe and intake rubber pipe. Seems excessive? They also mentioned the engine will require a steam clean after and then rechecked to see if the oil leak has gone. I’ve attached a photo I managed to get while the car was on the ramps. I don’t think it’s a turbo leak and the garage agree on that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qt1CmnCp/6391-DE0-F-71-A4-4-F82-8126-096-F147-B9596.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDYqNgQJ)
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Im not sure what they want to replace.
Better to clean it first and follow the trail but that's just my way.
Id be double checking the pcv pipework before replacing anything. As you said previously it was replaced. So I would check its seal on the head as its easy to screw up. Also check pipe from rear breather pipe fitted correctly and sealing and not dripping down.
Then check its not the cam cover gasket or the sensor on the front which are known to have a bad seal and leak round the cover and drip down the rear.
Also check the diverted valve diaphragm isn't split.
Also would be checking its not the oil freed pipe to the turbo as they are kwell known to get pin price size holes in and spray oil out.
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Im not sure what they want to replace.
Better to clean it first and follow the trail but that's just my way.
Id be double checking the pcv pipework before replacing anything. As you said previously it was replaced. So I would check its seal on the head as its easy to screw up. Also check pipe from rear breather pipe fitted correctly and sealing and not dripping down.
Then check its not the cam cover gasket or the sensor on the front which are known to have a bad seal and leak round the cover and drip down the rear.
Also check the diverted valve diaphragm isn't split.
Also would be checking its not the oil freed pipe to the turbo as they are kwell known to get pin price size holes in and spray oil out.
Thanks Snoopy, great suggestions there. I just hope it isn’t the piston rings like some of the Audi TFSI engines from the time were plagued with.
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Only if its burning it not leaking it.
As you had the pcv replaced check the rear crank seal isn't leaking. It's the weakest link when pressure builds.
Check the under the engine the join between the gearbox and engine. There's a ruff patch in the casting in the join. Make sure oil isn't leaking out of there.
You can clean the oil off by buying a can of brake cleaner and spraying it at the oil covered bits it will wash it off.