Blocked pick up pipes cause low oil pressure and warning lights on the dash. STOP - Oil Pressure is common thing to come up. There is no point in trying to clean it out as they get ridiculously blocked and it's nearly impossible to clean properly. Plus they are very cheap.
Things needed (TPS is where I got these and latest RRP prices as of 06/03/2013):
- Pick up pipe - SUCTION PIPE - RRP £9.18 + VAT
- Pick up pipe seal - SEAL RING - RRP £3.75 + VAT
- Oil (Not sure on price as I have drums. Will need a 5l bottle though)
- Oil filter - OIL FILTER - RRP £5.62 + VAT
- Sump plug - SCREW - £1.63 + VAT
- Sealant
The sealant I used was Dirko sealant. This stuff is amazing and what VW recommend. It's exactly the same as stock stuff, you don't need a lot and it doesn't leak.
Tools needed:
16mm socket + ratchet
10mm socket + wobble extension or a 5mm hex tool, some recommend a 5mm ball end
First run the car to get the oil warm to drain. Jack the car and support it. Then drain the oil.
There is plenty of bolts on the sump:
The tough bolts are ones in behind the gearbox housing. You can move the flywheel until there are two cut outs so it makes it easier. Most recommend a ball end 5mm allen key. My socket on a wobble extension does the job perfectly.
I do apologise about these pictures as it's pretty hard to get decent shots of the bolts.
You can just see it in the middle to the right, just make out the edge of the bolt. There are two others easy to get to.
My tool of choice was this:
Get those two bolts out first to make sure you can. If not give up. You can use a universal joint adaptor too. If you use a hex, MAKE SURE it's FIRMLY in place before undoing. If it isn't straight DO NOT try and undo the bolt. If you ruin it you're knackered. This is one of the reasons I prefer the 10mm, much easier to not round it. A ball end allen key will be fine though.
Note I'm not wearing gloves purely as it gets slippery. Am wearing barrier cream though.
Undo the two 10mm bolts on the turbo oil line. Also undo the level sensor:
Crack off the 16mm bolts, there are three:
One here above the mount:
Now undo all the other bolts. The sump will probably stay in place. It might be worth leaving at least two in then hold the sump as you undo it just in case it doesn't.
Once you have undone the bolts you will probably need to break the sealant. Don't lever the sump where it seals, you can damage the faces. You can tap it but I prefer not to. What I did was lever it here:
Used the hole as there is no mating face there. Cracked right off.
You will now have the sump off. Keep a bucket under the engine for dripping oil.
This is the gunk:
Wash the sump out. I used Gunk cleaner, brake cleaner and a jetwash. I removed the sensor to do this as to not damage it. I then dried it with blue towel.
Here is the pickup pipe:
Undo the two 10mm/5mm hex bolts and pull out. Oil will come out of it so watch out.
Here is the old, you can see the blockage!:
New:
Lovely.
Remove the old seal if it is stuck on the oil pump like this one was:
Put the new seal on the new pickup:
Clean both faces where the sump meets. Old sealant will come off with a rub. Use brake cleaner to clean both faces and then put sealant on the sump:
(you will want the sump cleaner than that, I stripped it all out washed my hands, took photos ater a lunch brake then did all the cleaning and putting back together so make sure yours is clean!!!)
That amount of sealant is enough. Do not use any more than that, it really doesn't need it. Dirko is highly recommended. IS expensive though a tenner on trade! You don't use much though.
Put the sump back on (this sealant you put the sump on straight away, some sealants say wait).
Put the sensor back in if you took it out, sump plug back and then wait 30 minutes at least before filling with oil.
Sump bolts 15NM the 16mm head ones are 60NM sump plug is 30NM and the sensor and turbo pipe bolts don't have a setting that I know of. 20nm would be fine.
Hope this helps!
