GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Syko on 10 December 2016, 14:28
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Ok, my first post !
Drove the Mk3 2.0, 8v to my mates , started first thing , no probs; came back to the car 40 mins later- wont start. :sad:
Sounded like 'no spark'..wd40 everything likely, checked every fuse, added new fuel- still no go.
Then on inserting key again, no warning lights, fuel gauge doesnt move..
Called RAC
After half an hour , nothing!..disconnected battery, etc- zilch! :angry:
Then attaches electronic analysis computer & all it tells him is that the ABS is fine!
Towed home with no real idea where to start....the only additional pointers are that the elcrtic windows 7 the horn dont work- but lights, indicators, radio, etc do...
ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS , before i take it to a garage & pay a mint to fix it?!!
Many thanks :smiley:
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Has it beein checked for spark?
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Not yet- you mean a simple plug test, yeah?
ill do that tomorrow...but im more worried about the lack of warning lights & functions? ..would seem more like a unit failure, to have so much not work..(?)
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Ok- how do i ascertain which relay on my fuseboard is the ignition relay?
None of them has 109 on them
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Fusebox faq and itll say which relay is locatex were.
Yeh just check theres actually a spark. If theres not theres a few things to then go by
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Thanks, Lemski...im just finding my way around
..i found 'fuseboard' faqs , @10, and a diagram for fuse location , but no indication of what relays go where..
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Its a little different but in the mk2 sections theres definately fusebox faqs with relays on ce2
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What engine code??
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What engine code??
[/quote
..ok, bear with me...where am i lifting this from?
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Service book, equipment sticker in boot or sticker on cambelt cover.
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Service book, equipment sticker in boot or sticker on cambelt cover.
Appears to be AGG .
I have no replaced both no.30 & 18 relays, no change.. :undecided:
many thanks
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Crankshaft sensor ?
Did it show any fault codes?
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Crankshaft sensor ?
Did it show any fault codes?
How to tell if its the crankshaft sensor?
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Crankshaft sensor ?
Did it show any fault codes?
How to tell if its the crankshaft sensor?
Itll not start. Or start and randomly cut out when you dip the clutch. Generally not running right because it cant pick up where the. Crank is
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Crankshaft sensor ?
Did it show any fault codes?
How to tell if its the crankshaft sensor?
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Crankshaft sensor ?
Did it show any fault codes?
How to tell if its the crankshaft sensor?
Itll not start. Or start and randomly cut out when you dip the clutch. Generally not running right because it cant pick up where the. Crank is
Ok, Thanks
current status is
Engine turns over but doesnt fire
Replaced relays 18 & 30 - no change. Relay clicks when key turned
No warning lights come on when key turned to 'on'.
Do i go to a replacement crank sensor from here? Thanks
-sorry, but i am fishing in the dark, and have zero comprehension of electrics :rolleyes:
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Have u scanned it.
Checked for a spark.
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Have u scanned it.
Checked for a spark.
Not scanned. What scanner do i use?
Will double check plug spark
The lack of dash lights/display should be a simple prob, surely?
Thanks for bearing with me
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Bulbs gone out. Earth.
Without a pic of the dash its hard to see what you mean.
No ign lights ie nothing on the dash works.
Should be a obd2 scanner on a mk3
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Bulbs gone out. Earth.
Without a pic of the dash its hard to see what you mean.
No ign lights ie nothing on the dash works.
Should be a obd2 scanner on a mk3
No, nothing on the dash seems to work
Are those scanners easy to find?
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Probly someone on here close to you thats got one.
Bit of a silly thought but have you changed the main 30amp fuse? Checked that nothings come out the fuse box like the main power.
Wiggled the ignition switch wiring behind the key.
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Probly someone on here close to you thats got one.
Bit of a silly thought but have you changed the main 30amp fuse? Checked that nothings come out the fuse box like the main power.
Wiggled the ignition switch wiring behind the key.
..Ok, thanks. Hopefully someone in Kent has one?
..i removed and checked ALL fuses, but can again, just to be sure :smiley:
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Look on the vcd section on here and ask if anyone close to kent has it.
Itll do a better job than normal obd diagnostics.
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OK! Some progress!
- on the advice of a mate i hunted out plain black wires in blocks behind the Relays on the 'fuseboard'- having removed a pair ( with dodgy looking mated ends) from one block i now have base lights and functions on the dash when turning the key to ignition AND the engine starts with the key in that position-BUT it will not run. As soon as the key is released from the ignition position the engine stops.
Have i missed another connection or does this show another fault- eg knackerd ignition switch?
(Thanks, again!)
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If its spinning and running ign switch should be fine.
When the car cuts out does it turn the ign off as that would be more to do with the switch
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If its spinning and running ign switch should be fine.
When the car cuts out does it turn the ign off as that would be more to do with the switch
It only 'runs' when i i hold the key over in the START position. Warning lights work then.
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So its running on the starter and then when key goes back to ign on but not cranking its dead.
Could well be dodgey ign switch.
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So its running on the starter and then when key goes back to ign on but not cranking its dead.
Could well be dodgey ign switch.
Thanks- new Gsf unit arrived yesterday- will try it this weekend
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Ok! :laugh:
..MAY be some light at the end of the tunnel.
The new ignition switch made no difference.
It then occurred to me that some of the wires FROM the ignition switch looked odd as they enter the block behind the relay(s). Some, including the red power lead, have marks on them, the sort pliers would leave.
The yellow/black & red/black leads were'loose' enough to pull out, easily. I tried the yellow/black lead in the empty socket adjacent and the red/black likewise and the warning lights now come on when the key is turned to first position, and the engine turns over ( but doesnt fire) when key turned all the way to 'on'.
My question now, is , can someone supply me with a photo/point me at a diagram that shows the correct wiring of that block?
It also occurs to me that i may be missing a wire completely, one that links in the ignition circuit when the key is turned fully ?
Many thanks for all help :smiley:
There is a solid black lead from the switch to the block, which i pressume was part of the alarm system.
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..ok, well still in the dark
But one less thing, i managed to check spark at the plug today, and there is none.
Warning lights come on at the right time & engine spins over now.
Is there a lead from the ignition switch /connection block that triggers the ignition spark?
I now have a Haynes , but its little help tbh...
thanks again for any help..
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Plug on the coil @ the bulk head.
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Plug on the coil @ the bulk head.
Thanks
- check it? if so, how?
replace it?
:smiley:
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Thanks, again, for the pointer
The wiring to the coil looks somewhat suspect in itself, as the 3 wires are hand wrapped in aftermarket insulating tape....
there are 3 wires
green/red
brown
& black
Is this correct?
thanks
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Ill have to have a look when im home as ive got it written somewhere. Or on here if you go into fusebox faq there are everywire and colour and where it goes to.
Id suspect the coil its self but it should normally start and go until its warmed up
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Ill have to have a look when im home as ive got it written somewhere. Or on here if you go into fusebox faq there are everywire and colour and where it goes to.
Id suspect the coil its self but it should normally start and go until its warmed up
Thanks for all your help- much apreciated :smiley:
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Still unsure about the coil &/or its wiring, but i need to ask , should i replace the crank sensor as a matter of course, as it looks 'original' and i understand they are prone to failure? :undecided:
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Theres a few prone to failur things on the mk3.
The coil eventually goes.
The hall effect sensor on the dizzy goes
Crank sensor
Ecu relay and im sure another one
Most should show a code. I know on my passat crank sensor didnt throw a code but vcd probally would have picked it up.
Ive got a coil sat thats off my golf that ill happily chuck it in the post to you.
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Thanks, Dude
but i have already ordered a new one, justin case, so we'll see where that gets me!
Otherwise ill try your other options & report back
many thanks
Tim :smiley:
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Ok (brand) new coil fitted, no change- no spark.
Three wires in to coil are black, brown & greeen / red
Does this green/red take its feed from the ignition block? There are four leads on there that DO NOT go to the ignition switch & one is green/red.
I want to dismiss this avenue of investigation before i go off down any of the others ( above)
Thanks, again, for any help :smiley:
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It goes through the fusebox but there will be live to coil from ignition.
Ive just had a quick look through the faq for ce2 but cant find the coil colours. With ignition on is there power at that plug.
Im sure thats the correct wire though.
If you check the fusebox end itll be that colour in g1 or g2 most likely. The white plugs are engine loom
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Many thanks
Is the " live to coil from ignition." likely to be black?
cheers :smiley:
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Umm dont know. On the ignition theres a black wire but its into the fusebox. Same with the coil wires. If you can find the faq stickied on here somewhere by rubjonny it should actually tell you the coil and the pin number for coil live
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Quick update-
with new coil fitted i still dont appear to be getting a spark at turnover..
so tested feed to coil with ignition on ( with illuminating circuit tester) and there IS power going to the coil- via the BLACK wire, not the green/ red one- is that correct? :undecided:
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If im getting power to the coil them why would i not be getting a spark?
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Coil supplies the distributer. Distributer has a hall sensor that like to fail.
Plugs and leads.
Have you power while cranking? It might not be switching on the relay? I think.
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Coil supplies the distributer. Distributer has a hall sensor that like to fail.
Plugs and leads.
Have you power while cranking? It might not be switching on the relay? I think.
Do you mean do i loose power while turning the engine over? like dipping lights, etc?- ill test tomorrow
The dreaded Hall sensor! Ive heard a lot about that ! should i replace that as a matter of course?
Thanks, again
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..NO obvious drop in power when spinning engine..
Hall sensor, then? :undecided:
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I replaced mine with a revised version that hasnt got wires and there for doesnt break. Youll have to remove the dizzy and rebuild it. Also your suppose to reset the timing with vagcom to get it spot on but if you tipex the dizzy before you remove then you should get it somewhere spot on.
They can be stiff to remove aswell
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Ok, thought id try something a little less technical with a Dizzy rebuild 'kit', inc. replacement Hall sensor.
All ok, and pretty straight forward-except how do i remove the 'shield'? Mine only has one cut out, so no inserting numerous screwdrivers. Am soaking the shaft in wd40 now- any clues as how to lift it off ?( without specialist tools)..many thanks, again
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Shield? A pic would help. Its been nearly 12months since i rebuilt one and it all was straight forward. Theres a pin holds the shaft once hes out of the engine
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i would drill out the pin that goes through the lower gear, and split it that way. there is no keyway on the trigger wheel, so could be very tricky to re-align it perfectly. but if you are going to remove the wheel, just tap the bit where the rotor arm sits with a brass mallet. that should drive the shaft through while the wheel is up against the inside of the dizzy.
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Drill it? I used a little punvh and hammer on last one. Sure itll only go out one way though
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Drill it? I used a little punvh and hammer on last one. Sure itll only go out one way though
done that a couple of times myself. there are a pig of a thing to get moving :angry:. I would just drill in a few mil, then punch it the rest of the way. stick a new pin in afterwards. roll pins seem to work fine.
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Thanks, guys
the 'shield' i was talking about is the trigger wheel- mine only has one cut out.
So i understand from your advice above , that the trigger wheel will not lift away from the top of the dizzy , while in situ? ( which is what i was told)
The only way to replace the Hall Sensor is to remove the dizzy from the engine?
thanks, again
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Thats how ive always done it. Tipex the dizzy before it comes out for a rough place to line it up too going back in.
They like to get pretty stuck in the block over time.
Then on a bench knock the pin out and pull the shaft out. Then replace hall sensor and rebuild
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Have you considered calling a auto electrician?
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Thanks, thats my last resort!
I have now removed the Dizzy, fitted new Hall sender and replaced the unit. Still no spark
As the last measure before calling the Autoelectrician, i have bought a new Crank sensor .
Any tips on the easiest way to fit, as there appears to be an engine mount directly in front of it?
Many thanks, as ever.. :smiley:
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Support the engine and remove the mount