GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Golf mk7 GTD/TDI => Topic started by: Andrew@DTUK on 11 November 2013, 14:58
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as the last thread was hi-jacked i thought it would be better to start again..
At the weekend we headed down to Shark Performance to use their dyno, and also look at combining our knowledge to see what we could achieve..
This is an ongoing project which ill update regularly..
I posted this on another forum earlier today
talk is always good..
We've been involved with dual channel systems for VAG/BMW/MERC/Vauxhall for nearly 3 years now, intact we've been tuning the 2.0 140/170 with a dual channel system since 2009 and have dyno graphs from that engine showing a nice smooth curve and 220bhp and 443nm
the latest range of EA288 TDI engines in my eyes are a revelation, so much so i actually love driving our vRS
Getting onto the nitty gritty, we all know that tuned figures are like the lottery. Some of the claims being made are in my eyes unachievable, ok ill rephrase that and say that a high spike of bhp to hit the numbers is achievable but at the sacrifice of drivability.
As maisbitt has mentioned, he has loads of power but by the sounds of it his car is bordering on being undriveable as he is losing traction.
We've been working on software this last couple of weeks (without the dyn0) and we can give our customers an undriveable peaky map that within the dyno lottery would probably give 235bhp.. Yeah I've got 235bhp but i can't drive the car.
A true tuner wants to give their customers a tuned car that they can actually use, and this is why we differ from the competition and why we've invested over £25,000 in our own Octavia. This latest 2.0 184PS is going to be very popular, and we want to be the tuner of choice for VAG owners.
Im sure many of you have heard of Shark Performance, and i know that within the Skoda community they have a very good reputation, intact we used a shark performance STS on our own S3 and would be the inly people i would use for a remap.
So moving onto the 2.0 184PS
We did plan on going to our usual dyno based at Motoscope in Northallerton as this is the dyno we've used for the last 8/9 years and their figures are consistent.
2009 our 2.0TDI Seat Leon produced 210bhp and 443nm
2013 our TT TDI produced 220bhp and 443nm of torque
In those 4 years we have tweaked and developed the software which is what we will do with the latest 2.0TDI'S.
As this new engine is going to be shot topic we decided to goto a different dyno, and chose Shark's in Mansfield, factor in that they also have their own Octavia vRS and are interested in seeing exactly what we can offer them for their customers who don't want their edu opened up..
I will be posting a full write up on this forum and many others later this week, to summarise the results from saturday..
In standard form the vRS produced
141bhp at the wheel - 179.2 at the flywheel and 378nm of torque at 3003rpm
we dynode several files that we had written using the bum dyno, and the figures ranged from 210bhp unto 226bhp, but th torque on all of these files was sitting between 475 and 490nm.
After a day working with Ben on the dyno we created a smooth drivable file that produced
183bhp at the wheel - 221bhp at the flywheel and 489nm at 2150rpm
anybody that's anybody will agree that those figures are worthless as we could take the same car to 6 other dynos and the figures would vary for me the important thing i always look at are the % increases at the wheel as this takes away all of the correction bull.
So if you look at the 141 to 183bhp figures you'll see that they have increased by 29.7%
So if we were to add 29.7% to 184ps quoted by VAG then the expected figure we could quote on our website would be 239PS
so there we go, the unachievable figure i mentioned above is actually achievable but in reality on sharks dyno we only produced 221bhp..
I hope you guys are following where I'm going with this?
Either way we do intend to take our car to our usual dyno, and run the same files that we did on saturday and i guarantee the figures will be different.
So if youre looking for a company that is passionate about tuning cars, and are in it for the long term then you know who to talk too..
And this is before the introduction of a 3 channel system we are looking to develop with Shark Performance
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1461666_10151702766815756_1645107569_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1391583_10151701764235756_2057864075_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1000352_10151701644295756_2032506166_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1422555_10151701763540756_1391126657_n.jpg)
oh yeah, the dyno sheet..
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69010/shark_zpsa9da753d.jpg)
and a video..
DTUK VRS 2.0 TDI 184 PS - YouTube (http://"http://youtu.be/J-kWjfzLcfY")
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Seems pretty impressive Andrew, but I do have a few questions please.
I assume this is a plug in box rather than a map loaded directly onto the ECU, therefore, is there any evidence that the car has been mapped when it goes in for service?
My car is DSG equipped, and with 490nm of torque (mapped), are there any concerns over the gearbox and if the mechanism is able to cope with the extra torque ?
What sort of warranty will these come with - I'm more concerned with engine and ancillary warranties rather than the box itself ?
Monkeyhanger had one of these on test for a while in an attempt to coax a little more MPG out of his GTD. Whilst he commented it felt much stronger and faster, he didn't see any appreciable gains in MPG (although no worse considering the extra power), so again was wondering what sort of MPG gains (if any) would you advertise for these boxes. I.e. if someone didn't want to run in the full blow 220hp mode, but say a good trade off between power and economy (say an extra 20hp to 200 only) ?
What about brakes ? The PP GTI with 230ps uses larger discs and ventilated rears. Obviously the standard GTI with 220hp has the same brakes as a GTD, but I guess the GTD is heavier in the nose, so are there any recommendations over brake upgrades ?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm quite new to the mapping scene (as I'm quite an old fart - well, compared to the toddlers on here :grin:)
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Seems pretty impressive Andrew, but I do have a few questions please.
I assume this is a plug in box rather than a map loaded directly onto the ECU, therefore, is there any evidence that the car has been mapped when it goes in for service? - yes its a plug in module which connects to the common rail and boost pressure sensor
My car is DSG equipped, and with 490nm of torque (mapped), are there any concerns over the gearbox and if the mechanism is able to cope with the extra torque ? Thats a good question, and we currently do have a DSG equipped car running files that on our manual car produced 215bhp and 465nm of torque, again the system is adjustable so can be turned down if the end use wishes so.
What sort of warranty will these come with - I'm more concerned with engine and ancillary warranties rather than the box itself ?
we have product liability insurance, so if you can prove that the box caused the damage, then our insurance will kick in.
Monkeyhanger had one of these on test for a while in an attempt to coax a little more MPG out of his GTD. Whilst he commented it felt much stronger and faster, he didn't see any appreciable gains in MPG (although no worse considering the extra power), so again was wondering what sort of MPG gains (if any) would you advertise for these boxes. I.e. if someone didn't want to run in the full blow 220hp mode, but say a good trade off between power and economy (say an extra 20hp to 200 only) ?
as the box is adjustable, you don't have to run it at full swing, for example i travelled 313 miles at the weekend which included over 50 miles (static) and the skoda produced a brim to brim calculated 39.2 mpg
What about brakes ? The PP GTI with 230ps uses larger discs and ventilated rears. Obviously the standard GTI with 220hp has the same brakes as a GTD, but I guess the GTD is heavier in the nose, so are there any recommendations over brake upgrades ?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm quite new to the mapping scene (as I'm quite an old fart - well, compared to the toddlers on here :grin:)
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Andrew
I see form one of the picture you have your laptop plugged into the tuning box whilst on the rolling road....for some fine tuning I guess. Are you planning on doing a similar thing for the GTI plug in box you offer..??
Thanks
Ian
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Andrew
I see form one of the picture you have your laptop plugged into the tuning box whilst on the rolling road....for some fine tuning I guess. Are you planning on doing a similar thing for the GTI plug in box you offer..??
Thanks
Ian
Ian,
ill be honest with you and say YES..
As soon as we get a hold of a GTI we'll be heading back to Shark to see exactly what the kits are capable of.
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:smiley:
Can't wait!
OK, I can, I don't take delivery until next year!!
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:smiley:
Can't wait!
OK, I can, I don't take delivery until next year!!
You're going to love it :)
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What about brakes ? The PP GTI with 230ps uses larger discs and ventilated rears. Obviously the standard GTI with 220hp has the same brakes as a GTD, but I guess the GTD is heavier in the nose, so are there any recommendations over brake upgrades ?
It might prove expensive but you could purchase the parts for the big brake kit on the GTI and fit them.
You're right to consider it though...
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The wet 6 speed DSG clutch set has historically been rated at 450Nm max since the early days, not sure if they've upped the rating recently, given that stock torque of the GTI and GTD have increased noticeably and are getting closer to that (possibly old and superceded) limit.
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i'd be more worried about the headroom on a manual clutch rather than DSG
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Hi Andrew - thanks for posting your results and interesting to have some insight into the tuning you've been doing with this engine.
Do you have anymore fine tuning to do? Or is the box for the GTD with these settings available to order now via your website?
Also, what kind of discount can you offer to forum members? :wink:
Cheers
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Looking forward to seeing what you can get from the gti. These are great results for the gtd
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What about brakes ? The PP GTI with 230ps uses larger discs and ventilated rears. Obviously the standard GTI with 220hp has the same brakes as a GTD, but I guess the GTD is heavier in the nose, so are there any recommendations over brake upgrades ?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm quite new to the mapping scene (as I'm quite an old fart - well, compared to the toddlers on here :grin:)
Norbreck - (from one fellow old fart to another :grin: ) the weight gain for the diesel these days according to VW data is less than adding the rear doors in a 5 door - so hopefully not much of a problem braking-wise.
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What about brakes ? The PP GTI with 230ps uses larger discs and ventilated rears. Obviously the standard GTI with 220hp has the same brakes as a GTD, but I guess the GTD is heavier in the nose, so are there any recommendations over brake upgrades ?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm quite new to the mapping scene (as I'm quite an old fart - well, compared to the toddlers on here :grin:)
Norbreck - (from one fellow old fart to another :grin: ) the weight gain for the diesel these days according to VW data is less than adding the rear doors in a 5 door - so hopefully not much of a problem braking-wise.
Aye, 20Kg for GTD over GTI (with same number of doors), 5 doors is 30Kg - they don't put bigger brakes on the 5 door models or even 5 + DSG (which is even heavier - 17Kg)
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i'd be more worried about the headroom on a manual clutch rather than DSG
Is there any reason to believe the manual clutch would be any less resilient than the DSG?
I misread, the old literature rates the 6 speed dry clutch at 350Nm - they must have updated as the GTD surpasses that. http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/transmissions-and-drivetrains/dsg (http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/transmissions-and-drivetrains/dsg) look at the bottom of the "how does it work" section.
At the time I read this probably 5 years ago, the manual had a sizeable margin over the DSG.
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Hi Andrew - thanks for posting your results and interesting to have some insight into the tuning you've been doing with this engine.
Do you have anymore fine tuning to do? Or is the box for the GTD with these settings available to order now via your website?
Also, what kind of discount can you offer to forum members? :wink:
Cheers
Andy
Kits are now available, and well never stop tweaking :)
£80 off the full rrp, so £359 plus £6.95 shipping and free updates for as long as you own the box.
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£80 off the full rrp, so £359 plus £6.95 shipping and free updates for as long as you own the box.
Free updates is handy if you get itchy feet every 2 to 3 years like I do and change your car.
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I wouldn't call 2-3 years itchy feet :laugh: I'd better not go into my recent car history :whistle:
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some feedback from our Skoda DSG vRS owner who's running the pre dyno software, intact this particular file (4 plus 1) produced 210bhp and 450nm,
Anyway, over to the car. Its pretty much been faultless (touch wood). The one word answer of WOW! still applies! There is so much more torque and "go" in the engine through the gears now that it truly transforms the car. On the plus side the acceleration when needed from 2000rpm upwards is vastly improved and quite controllable when regulating the throttle so it doesnt light the tyres up in third gear! There is a bigger surge of torque between 3000-4000rpm (which is lots of fun!), almost like a powerband which does carry on but drops slightly after that but I tend to change up at 4000rpm anyway as I dont like the way the DSG holds onto the gears until 4500rpm.
Ive done about 250 miles (A,B roads) since it was fitted on 4:1 last week and a lot has been wet driving so I have had to watch in 3rd and 4th as the tyres can get away from you a lot easier so its not just a case of "foot down" like it used to be in the manual 170 vrs as you didnt need to worry as much then. Ive also found it quite hard to test it fully as you're soon up to 80mph in 4th with the engine staying quiet as if its still doing 60mph. Gear changes seem fine and no different to how it sounds without the box.
Ive tested it in all modes and my favourite has to be the manual flappy paddle as it feels so much more in control and with the extra toque/bhp you can control the flow of power to the wheels and
The mpg has also improved as on a run that would have been 44-45mpg before is now 49mpg. Not sure if this is actual fuel efficiency or the box fooling the fuel calculator??
I have noticed one thing for development and its that the DSG seems to hold onto higher gears now in D mode. ie driving along at 40mph in 4th which is about 1100 revs. I wouldnt be running this in a manual as I would be in third but I seem to have it in my head that before the box accelerating slightly would drop it to 3rd straight away and youd be off. Wit the box it now seems to hold onto the gear longer. ie 40mph, 4th, 1100rpm, rev slightly and it pulls away in 4th without changing down which feels slightly boggy and not right (might also affect the DMF). If you apply more revs like half way down on throttle then it will change as it sees the need to accelerate away faster.
Now this might be in my brain so dont take it as read yet. I need to test it without the box on to confirm this but if it is would you have any thoughts on it? Maybe a map that starts pulling later ie 2000rpm? I was wondering if the DSG sees more torque available at the low end of the gear therefore doesnt think it needs to change up?
I think Id be pretty happy running the box as is in 4:1 without any increase as its such an improvement and we may possibly be into territory where the DSG doesnt like the extra torque produced with a higher map. Ive also not had a coil light that you experienced on yours.
Great move teaming up with Ben at Shark by the way. He's very well respected on briskoda so that will win over a lot of the "map or nothing" guys on there who wouldnt usually entertain a box.
Let me know if you want me to try out any of the tuned maps from shark. You should have also got the other box back in the post as I sent it on special last week.
I have aMK7 Golf 2.0 TDI 150ps owner who is running the same software, and i have just received this from him via text.
customer - Hi Andy, so last night I had a play with the box. Thought your bro had set it to map 4 but was actually on 1, set it to 4+1 and holy crap.... That is more like it! So much torque :)
me - nice one, well I’m sure that map produced 210bhp on my 184ps, i tweaked it and it went unto 226bhp... so there is more to come
customer - Jesus, that is a big gain! My car pulls really hard now, map 1 is really tame but 4 is where it's at :)
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this maybe of interest to some of you..
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1425593_10151707916970756_433847140_n.jpg)
That right, you've read it correctly. Purchase a DTUK Petrol or Diesel Tuning System between now and the 31st of December 2013 and youre in with a chance of receiving a FULL REFUND from us for the full cost of the system.
The draw will be made on January the 3rd 2014, with the winner being named on our Facebook page.
This offer is open to our retail customers only.
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Aye, 20Kg for GTD over GTI (with same number of doors), 5 doors is 30Kg - they don't put bigger brakes on the 5 door models or even 5 + DSG (which is even heavier - 17Kg)
True... but they put bigger brakes on the PP equipped GTI... :huh:
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Aye, 20Kg for GTD over GTI (with same number of doors), 5 doors is 30Kg - they don't put bigger brakes on the 5 door models or even 5 + DSG (which is even heavier - 17Kg)
True... but they put bigger brakes on the PP equipped GTI... :huh:
I think that's more of a value for money thing on the PP pack TBH. If you're in a situation where you'd really appreciate those bigger brakes, you'd be flinging it around a track and those brakes would fade quite quickly. 2 goes around the Nerbergring anywhere close to the limits could shag those discs.
The point I was trying to make was that a 5 door DSG GTI is heavier (27kg) than a 3 door manual GTD there is quite a wide weight margin possible. I think most GTDers with extra kick would be driving completely differently to many situations a GTIer would drive when having some fun, as the GTD just doesn't have masses of low end traction. The GTD doesn't need those bigger brakes on the road, neither does a PP. You could give a GTD 250PS and you wouldn't appreciably improve the 0-62 time because you'd be spinning on the spot in 1st and 2nd from a standiing start.
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In post #2, you answered the bit about a plug in module, Andrew, but not the bit about visibility re servicing.
Is the module visible to dealers please ?
Also, is there any "smoke" under load ?
The plug in module would have to be unplugged before you took it to the dealers. It's prior fitment is presumed to be untraceable because the signals sent by the ECU to the common rail and the boost sensor are intercepted and modified by the box and then sent on their rightful way. These modified signals are not fed back to the ECU for it to know that the signals were altered, nor do the receiving sensors have any memory of signals they have received.
That is the way I think everything happens with a 2 channel tuning box, maybe Andrew can confirm?
I'm also presuming that the DPF would capture any "smoke" (particulates) under load and if there is masses more particulate matter produced then you'd have more regens.
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Aye, 20Kg for GTD over GTI (with same number of doors), 5 doors is 30Kg - they don't put bigger brakes on the 5 door models or even 5 + DSG (which is even heavier - 17Kg)
True... but they put bigger brakes on the PP equipped GTI... :huh:
I think that's more of a value for money thing on the PP pack TBH. If you're in a situation where you'd really appreciate those bigger brakes, you'd be flinging it around a track and those brakes would fade quite quickly. 2 goes around the Nerbergring anywhere close to the limits could shag those discs.
The point I was trying to make was that a 5 door DSG GTI is heavier (27kg) than a 3 door manual GTD there is quite a wide weight margin possible. I think most GTDers with extra kick would be driving completely differently to many situations a GTIer would drive when having some fun, as the GTD just doesn't have masses of low end traction. The GTD doesn't need those bigger brakes on the road, neither does a PP. You could give a GTD 250PS and you wouldn't appreciably improve the 0-62 time because you'd be spinning on the spot in 1st and 2nd from a standiing start.
You may, of course, be right; however, the question was asked about better brakes... I merely suggested an option that would work if the questioner decided a brake upgrade was an option they wanted to follow...
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Some impressive information in here. Just wish Christmas wasn't around the corner :(
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In 2 minds about box timing. I could get one now and get upfront true price insurance for the mod with my imminent insurance renewal. Or could wait, get a few miles on the clock and see how the car improves, then run the risk of my chosen insurer being very mod unfriendly.
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In 2 minds about box timing. I could get one now and get upfront true price insurance for the mod with my imminent insurance renewal. Or could wait, get a few miles on the clock and see how the car improves, then run the risk of my chosen insurer being very mod unfriendly.
Could you not find out a prospective quote with the box attached?
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In 2 minds about box timing. I could get one now and get upfront true price insurance for the mod with my imminent insurance renewal. Or could wait, get a few miles on the clock and see how the car improves, then run the risk of my chosen insurer being very mod unfriendly.
Could you not find out a prospective quote with the box attached?
It's £80 more on my best quote to have the box.
I'm too tight to pay the £80 on the off-chance that I might get a box, just in case I don't. :grin:
If my car was meeting performance expectations (i.e a smidge better than my Scirocco rather than a smidge worse) and decent mpg (not that I expect true mpg gains with a box) then I wouldn't have considered a box.
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In 2 minds about box timing. I could get one now and get upfront true price insurance for the mod with my imminent insurance renewal. Or could wait, get a few miles on the clock and see how the car improves, then run the risk of my chosen insurer being very mod unfriendly.
Could you not find out a prospective quote with the box attached?
Kyle,
give us a call as we have a scheme to help where insurance is concerned
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In 2 minds about box timing. I could get one now and get upfront true price insurance for the mod with my imminent insurance renewal. Or could wait, get a few miles on the clock and see how the car improves, then run the risk of my chosen insurer being very mod unfriendly.
Could you not find out a prospective quote with the box attached?
Kyle,
give us a call as we have a scheme to help where insurance is concerned
Its monkey that's worried about insurance mate :)
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Maybe I’m overthinking this (being highly cautious before I jump in to anything), but when you see car makers with twin-scroll turbo diesel, are they using the exact same injectors and fuel pumps which are uprated to cope with extra pressure etc? I’m thinking 3.0TDI single turbo vs Bi-turbo, as seen on the Audi A6, and BMW 120d vs 125d.
Does anyone know if there are engineering differences to cope with the possible extra fuel system pressure for bi-turbo over the single turbo variants to pump more fuel in. I do wonder about the extra pressure that these tuning boxes apply and the potential effects it may have longer term on injector and fuel pump operation. If the Bi-turbo variants use the same fuel pump and injectors at a higher pressure rather than bigger injectors at same pressure as the single turbo systems then I would be confident we have nothing to worry about.
The difference between the 140CR and 170CR engines seen commonly on the MK6 Golf and Scirocco was seen in both injector set and turbo, as well as a few subtle difference with the cylinder head. I’d assume from the injection and turbo differences that VAG does scale up the fuelling system to get more fuel in by bigger injectors capable of spraying more per cycle at an unchanged fuel pressure rather than just ramping up the fuelling pressure.
How close to arbitrary upper pressure limits do tuning boxes which report 30% increase in output take the car’s fuelling system (assuming that these “safety” limits are known to anyone outside the VAG network)?
I know we have VW’s warranty to fall back on if something should go pop and we remove the traceless box before sending it back to VW, but I do wonder whether I’d be passing on a future ticking timebomb at part-ex time. I must admit that I can’t find many examples on the net where people have had a box and had their injectors, fuel pump or turbo knack and have had a tuning box fitted, not knowing whether they would’ve failed anyway (but there were a few). There do seem massively more people who are happy with their boxed car than who regret the decision later, which makes me think the injection systems are pretty robust (although looking into 30-50k of a car’s life that the box owner has the car for rather than the whole 150-250k miles of the car’s lifecycle might be a little short sighted).
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How traceless are the boxes for VAG cars? It has been assumed that these boxes are untraceable. However, I have read that Vauxhall can detect the addition of a box and invalidate your warranty (and this has apparently happened to someone according to a thread at Briskoda). Do Vauxhall have a more sophisticated sensory feedback that provides a return feed to the ECU? Can anyone confirm that VAG cars currently do not? Can anyone confirm recommended clutch limits for manual GTDs and GTIs (current 6 speed wet clutch DSG is designed for 450Nm).
I think most would want both these questions answering before considering a box.
I’m still undecided whether to jump back in with a box, with these questions left unanswered.
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How traceless are the boxes for VAG cars? It has been assumed that these boxes are untraceable. However, I have read that Vauxhall can detect the addition of a box and invalidate your warranty (and this has apparently happened to someone according to a thread at Briskoda). Do Vauxhall have a more sophisticated sensory feedback that provides a return feed to the ECU? Can anyone confirm that VAG cars currently do not? Can anyone confirm recommended clutch limits for manual GTDs and GTIs (current 6 speed wet clutch DSG is designed for 450Nm).
I think most would want both these questions answering before considering a box.
I’m still undecided whether to jump back in with a box, with these questions left unanswered.
from my own personal experience with our skoda, I'm confident to say that as long as no fault codes are recorded there are no signs left behind once the box has been removed.
I have a good friend that works within the VAG group and has access to dealer level diagnostics, the only way he could tell that a box had been fitted was if the box was removed before the ecu powered down, thus giving a low common rail pressure fault code.
At the end of the day if youre going to tune your car you've got to accept an element of risk and responsbility.Ive ran several tuned Audi's over the last 2 years, all returned back to Audi without any issues. And lets be honest, who's not going to look suspiciously at ourselves with a name like Diesel Tuning UK.
Regarding torque limits, the VAG gearboxes are no different than any other box. If the DSG box is rated to 450nm and a tuned car produces above that figure, then you have to take into consideration that the extra torque is only going to be used for a split second or two. Im sure if a car was ran at a constant speed in a non stop manner, then you may see an issue. But who ever actually drives their car in that way?
I
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Reading this with interest, now i know this thread is specific to the GTD engine but do you have any time frame as to when you will have tested one on a GTI?
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Still feeling a little underwhelmed with my GTD’s pull in the upper gears, but winter is coming, so accessing extra power in slippery roads probably isn’t going to happen much. There are some big money risk implications with upping the power and torque, especially on a new car – dual mass flywheels, clutches, injectors, turbos etc, they might fail on their own anyway and at only 1800 miles in I don’t think my car is “proven” yet in the mechanical reliability stakes. Not knowing the torque limits of the manual set-up is a worry also. Common sense tells me it will be a bit more resilient than the DSG set-up (being less complex), but there seems to be no published design limit for the manual box.
Need to make my mind up with the car insurance whether I’m going to fit one this year or not as my renewal is due on Saturday and my choice of insurer is dependent upon whether I would fit a box or not.
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Reading this with interest, now i know this thread is specific to the GTD engine but do you have any time frame as to when you will have tested one on a GTI?
The GTI kit is actually in the hands of a highly regarding VAG tuner who were working with, were hopefully going to see some results from this within the next couple of weeks
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Still feeling a little underwhelmed with my GTD’s pull in the upper gears, but winter is coming, so accessing extra power in slippery roads probably isn’t going to happen much. There are some big money risk implications with upping the power and torque, especially on a new car – dual mass flywheels, clutches, injectors, turbos etc, they might fail on their own anyway and at only 1800 miles in I don’t think my car is “proven” yet in the mechanical reliability stakes. Not knowing the torque limits of the manual set-up is a worry also. Common sense tells me it will be a bit more resilient than the DSG set-up (being less complex), but there seems to be no published design limit for the manual box.
Need to make my mind up with the car insurance whether I’m going to fit one this year or not as my renewal is due on Saturday and my choice of insurer is dependent upon whether I would fit a box or not.
if youre already worrying about youre car being "unproven", then my advice is leave the car in its standard form.
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This sounds like a really good option for the GTD. How would I go about getting the £359 deal you mentioned earlier in the post ?
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This sounds like a really good option for the GTD. How would I go about getting the £359 deal you mentioned earlier in the post ?
You have a pm :)
if you follow this link
http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/systems_available.php?id=4128
that will take you to the CRD-T for the GTD, simply add the discount code GTD80 and the discounts will apply.
cheers
Andrew
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So, I fitted the CRDT-2, which took 5 mins. Tried setting 1 through 4, and once I got up to 4 the difference the performance is huge - especially in the higher gears 4-6. Very impressive peice of kit - certainly put a smile on my face. Havent tried it on a longer run yet, so cant comment on adverse fuel economy effect yet, but will report on that when i have.
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So, I fitted the CRDT-2, which took 5 mins. Tried setting 1 through 4, and once I got up to 4 the difference the performance is huge - especially in the higher gears 4-6. Very impressive peice of kit - certainly put a smile on my face. Havent tried it on a longer run yet, so cant comment on adverse fuel economy effect yet, but will report on that when i have.
My advice it to try all of the maps on zero setting, then move unto plus 1 on the particular map youre using..
Im currently running map 4 on plus 2 and its a hoot :)
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Just received this feedback from a mk7 gtd owner...
Hi Andrew
Some feedback on the stage 2 unit that I installed just before Christmas with originally 2k on the clock. Set it to map4 plus1 as per your recommendation and it's transformed a great engine to a fantastic one. I have done an additional 1.5k miles since install and it's blown a load of friends minds away on its smooth power delivery and effortless overtaking ability.
In sport mode when you want to exploit the performance it puts a huge smile on your face, however when you are after fuel savings in Eco mode on motorway journeys I've seen the other side of 60mpg which again puts a smile on your face.
This is the third DTUK unit I have purchased and its the best yet. I know you constantly working on improving the software but not sure you will be able to do it with this one, but I will be keeping and eye on the website.
Happy for you to use this as a testimonial, but change my name if you want to use it.
Sent from my iPad
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For any interested parties, we have the vRS booked into Motoscope in Northallerton this thursday. Well be running map 4 plus 1 on the dyno which produced 226bhp on Sharks Dyno which will give us some more pub talk :)
We will also be running a new file I've just written this afternoon that Ive just added to our vRS, initial thoughts are that at least on the road the mid range pull is a lot stronger and the traction control light needs a holiday :)
As soon as receive the info back from the dyno ill update this thread :)
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updated dyno results using our CRD-T
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69026/OCTAVIA3_zps1944fbc5.jpg)
232.9bhp and 368.6lbft/501nm - map 4 plus 1
http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-volkswagen-vw_golf-vii_2.0-tdi-184-ps-(2013-)-stage-2-(crd-t) (http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-volkswagen-vw_golf-vii_2.0-tdi-184-ps-(2013-)-stage-2-(crd-t))
And remember that we offer members £80 off the full RRP on this kit by using the discount code GTD80
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
Also extremely tempted. 2,500 miles on the clock now and if im being honest...starting to feel like it needs more pace! Id love to see the pull this thing has in 3rd and 4th
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Great, cheers for the info Yours must pull pretty well with both.. Really tempted as the accelwratio has gone rather flat with me. Think a purchase will be made in a week. Its the manual i have, is that what you have?
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Great, cheers for the info Yours must pull pretty well with both.. Really tempted as the accelwratio has gone rather flat with me. Think a purchase will be made in a week. Its the manual i have, is that what you have?
Yeah, ours is a manual :) a proper car :laugh:
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Great, cheers for the info Yours must pull pretty well with both.. Really tempted as the accelwratio has gone rather flat with me. Think a purchase will be made in a week. Its the manual i have, is that what you have?
Yeah, ours is a manual :) a proper car :laugh:
Now now..no need for that! :cry:
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Although I'm a petrol driver (though looking at those TDI graphs I'm wondering why I bothered!) I'll back up Andrew and say the PedalBox really is the icing on the cake and even if you're not going to up the power on the engine it's still a 'must have' addition.
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Although I'm a petrol driver (though looking at those TDI graphs I'm wondering why I bothered!) I'll back up Andrew and say the PedalBox really is the icing on the cake and even if you're not going to up the power on the engine it's still a 'must have' addition.
Do you think it would be advisable to try the pedal box first then? As im not really keen on shelling out for both in one go
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That's looking impressive - is this the new file you mentioned earlier?
Only 800 on the clock at the moment so trying to resist urge to buy... :laugh:
no, thats the original map we developed back in November,
Andrew, bit of a noob with all this technology. But how much of a difference is there to this and the pedal box? As with the discount code its still 200.00 of a difference. Just wondering if spending the extra cash is needed. Cheers
The CRD-T gives the power, the Pedal box only sharpens throttle response..
So of you want 235ps and 500nm, the only option is the CRD-T :) If you then want an even quicker car, then at a later date add the pedal box..
Thats the combo I'm running and its frikking awesome :)
is your car manual,or DSG?
Although I'm a petrol driver (though looking at those TDI graphs I'm wondering why I bothered!) I'll back up Andrew and say the PedalBox really is the icing on the cake and even if you're not going to up the power on the engine it's still a 'must have' addition.
Do you think it would be advisable to try the pedal box first then? As im not really keen on shelling out for both in one go
We wouldn't sell you both together anyway :) the first stage is the box then if you decide to purchase the pedal box well offer you additional discount on the pedal box :)
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Andrew any chance of coming up to see you in consett and taking me out in yours to see what the difference is :whistle:
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Andrew any chance of coming up to see you in consett and taking me out in yours to see what the difference is :whistle:
That would be my pleasure, CRDT and then CRDT plus pedal box :laugh:
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Andrew any chance of coming up to see you in consett and taking me out in yours to see what the difference is :whistle:
That would be my pleasure, CRDT and then CRDT plus pedal box :laugh:
Id love to hear the feedback if you lads meet up. Not that i dont believe you Andrew lol
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Andrew I see on the graph it has maximum power wheels / maximum power engine.
Where do VW measure the power from?
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Andrew I see on the graph it has maximum power wheels / maximum power engine.
Where do VW measure the power from?
VW measure engine output when they quote 184PS/181HP/135KW, most VAG cars are a good 5 to 10% above when run in, it's like a worst case scenario figure.
So tempted but for the fact I would feel obliged to swap out my sh!tty Bridgestones or be extremely careful. The other box I trialled was amazing before I returned it for tweaks and they cut the power right out to address traction issues. This system seems to have had a lot more thought go into the mapping.
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Andrew I see on the graph it has maximum power wheels / maximum power engine.
Where do VW measure the power from?
VW measure engine output when they quote 184PS/181HP/135KW, most VAG cars are a good 5 to 10% above when run in, it's like a worst case scenario figure.
So tempted but for the fact I would feel obliged to swap out my sh!tty Bridgestones or be extremely careful. The other box I trialled was amazing before I returned it for tweaks and they cut the power right out to address traction issues. This system seems to have had a lot more thought go into the mapping.
On Sharks dyno the car ran 179bhp in standard form (400 miles on the clock) then 226bhp tuned
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Andrew any chance of coming up to see you in consett and taking me out in yours to see what the difference is :whistle:
That would be my pleasure, CRDT and then CRDT plus pedal box :laugh:
Id love to hear the feedback if you lads meet up. Not that i dont believe you Andrew lol
Well anyone is more than welcome to pop and see us anytime, the kettles always on
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I'm just down the road in Sunderland and get my washing gear from you Andrew. what's the best day/time to come up?
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On Sharks dyno the car ran 179bhp in standard form (400 miles on the clock) then 226bhp tuned
How many miles were on the car at that point? Maybe the engine output is better metered by VAG than ever before, so they stop cars being overpowered? It would be interesting to get 3 or 5 GTDs or the Skoda/Audi/Seat equivalent and see what they run on the same dyno to see if we can see any variance in stock output - if they all had the same output, regardless of mileage beyond running in then it would seem that greater control is in effect. Might be a little impractical/costly to prove though. 1% off theoretical output seems pretty close to VAG's design intent.
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On Sharks dyno the car ran 179bhp in standard form (400 miles on the clock) then 226bhp tuned
How many miles were on the car at that point? Maybe the engine output is better metered by VAG than ever before, so they stop cars being overpowered? It would be interesting to get 3 or 5 GTDs or the Skoda/Audi/Seat equivalent and see what they run on the same dyno to see if we can see any variance in stock output - if they all had the same output, regardless of mileage beyond running in then it would seem that greater control is in effect. Might be a little impractical/costly to prove though. 1% off theoretical output seems pretty close to VAG's design intent.
400 at 226bhp on sharks dyno with 490nm, 2000 miles today with 232 and 500nm
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400 at 226bhp on sharks dyno with 490nm, 2000 miles today with 232 and 500nm
A little confused here (i've been out for a few pints!).
1. Are the numbers above same conditions (same map, same dyno), but showing how much better the car is at 2000 miles on than 400?
2. Or are you showing improvements seen with a new map/tweaks to settings on existing map.
3. Or is it everything the same, but on a different dyno?
Assuming it is 1, then 179BHP to 226BHP = stock is 79.2% of boxed output.
Assuming same potential increase, it would suggest that the stock car with an extra 1600 miles on is putting out 183.7BHP, which is good news for everyone.
If it's 2, then your tweaks have yielded a 2.7% improvement in output.
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400 at 226bhp on sharks dyno with 490nm, 2000 miles today with 232 and 500nm
A little confused here (i've been out for a few pints!).
1. Are the numbers above same conditions (same map, same dyno), but showing how much better the car is at 2000 miles on than 400?
2. Or are you showing improvements seen with a new map/tweaks to settings on existing map.
3. Or is it everything the same, but on a different dyno?
Assuming it is 1, then 179BHP to 226BHP = stock is 79.2% of boxed output.
Assuming same potential increase, it would suggest that the stock car with an extra 1600 miles on is putting out 183.7BHP, which is good news for everyone.
If it's 2, then your tweaks have yielded a 2.7% improvement in output.
Same car, same maps/box, different dyno
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Is this now £309 with discount now?! Can't find alternative on your website..
Found it, was looking at stage 1, not 2!
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The point is that the results from different dynos will differ...
In fact even results from the same dyno will differ on different days (dependent on conditions)...
So, dyno results should only ever be used for comparison. So, you go for a day at the dyno, you run the standard car, log the results, make some changes, log the results and compare... and so on.
The next time you go, you should make a run as a base and work from there.
The absolute numbers generated are for pointless willy waving... the thing you're really after is to verify any improvements made due to changes...
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The point is that the results from different dynos will differ...
In fact even results from the same dyno will differ on different days (dependent on conditions)...
So, dyno results should only ever be used for comparison. So, you go for a day at the dyno, you run the standard car, log the results, make some changes, log the results and compare... and so on.
The next time you go, you should make a run as a base and work from there.
The absolute numbers generated are for pointless willy waving... the thing you're really after is to verify any improvements made due to changes...
exactly, the point of posting the graphs was to show that the results are consistent between 2 different dyno's
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Is this now £309 with discount now?! Can't find alternative on your website..
Found it, was looking at stage 1, not 2!
if you get stuck give me a call on 01207 299538 office hours, or 07977466007 out of hours
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The point is that the results from different dynos will differ...
In fact even results from the same dyno will differ on different days (dependent on conditions)...
So, dyno results should only ever be used for comparison. So, you go for a day at the dyno, you run the standard car, log the results, make some changes, log the results and compare... and so on.
The next time you go, you should make a run as a base and work from there.
The absolute numbers generated are for pointless willy waving... the thing you're really after is to verify any improvements made due to changes...
exactly, the point of posting the graphs was to show that the results are consistent between 2 different dyno's
Andrew, I wasn't suggesting otherwise... just clarifying for others...
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The point is that the results from different dynos will differ...
In fact even results from the same dyno will differ on different days (dependent on conditions)...
So, dyno results should only ever be used for comparison. So, you go for a day at the dyno, you run the standard car, log the results, make some changes, log the results and compare... and so on.
The next time you go, you should make a run as a base and work from there.
The absolute numbers generated are for pointless willy waving... the thing you're really after is to verify any improvements made due to changes...
exactly, the point of posting the graphs was to show that the results are consistent between 2 different dyno's
Andrew, I wasn't suggesting otherwise... just clarifying for others...
yeah i know that :smiley: were both singing from the same hymn sheet :)
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Am really trying to resist the desire for extra oomph / driveability :o
If you do give in, you'll wonder why you waited so long, it's like you swapped your 2.0TDI for 3.0TDI.
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Any concerns over clutch longevity?
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Any concerns over clutch longevity?
Not for me, the way I drive my car and the intended length of ownership.
My Dad's MK5 GT 170TDI had 123k miles on it when he traded it in, and the last 50k miles were done with a TDI-tuning box which bumped it up to 200PS/410Nm. DTUK box.
Unless you're an absolute loon behind the wheel, you'll be unlikely to be getting anywhere near using the extra 120Nm of torque more than 5% of the time. I haven't experienced any clutch related smells to date. The TDI clutches have always been really heavy duty.
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we took the Skoda back to the dyno again this weekend, it now has 3,800 miles on the clock and it seams to be loosening up nicely..
This should be of interest to a few of you :)
This run was using map 3 plus 1...
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69034/OCTAVIA_240_zps08a0a777.jpg)
240bhp and 372.4lbft / 505nm!! at 2625rpm
we then ran it on the usual map 4 plus 1.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69034/SKODA_MAP4_zps8a1f7d22.jpg)
237bhp and 370.7lbft / 504nm at 2306rpm
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240bhp and 372.4lbft / 505nm!! at 2625rpm
Ay caramba :laugh:
Edit - Hi Andrew, what do the 1-4 + 1 settings correspond to on the unit, or are these just totally different mappings?
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What's the clutch rated at for the manual ?
No idea, but I would imagine it's more resilient than the DSG version - less to go wrong with it at least. I'm sure i've read somewhere that the DSG is rated for 450Nm
It would be interesting to see if the GTD manual has the same clutch build as the 204PS 3.0TDI manual with 450Nm - Tiptronic goes up to 245PS (580Nm) in the A5/A6/A7, but the manual doesn't. I wonder if that's down to Audi thinking that everyone driving the exec range of their cars will want a DSG or limits of the manual clutch (plus whatever % overbuild they add in for assured longevity). If the GTD does have the same clutch as the 3.0 204PS version, then you're only asking an extra 11% from stock rating to get 500Nm.
When you look around on the net, it seems Fiat/Alfa are the biggest for reported clutch slippage when fitted with tuning boxes, and there aren't exactly many of those examples. With VAG having a far bigger range of engine outputs above 150PS in the diesel range than Fiat group, are they more or less likely to have a few heavy duty clutches to suit most of the range rather than one per output for the 170/177/184/190 2.0TDI and the 204PS 3.0TDI?
How you treat your clutch normally will have a big part to play in the longevity even without adding a box. Ride that clutch at junctions (maybe less of an issue for some who used to before autohold) and you'll be lucky to see 50k miles from it. Treat a clutch nicely and no reason you couldn't see 200k miles out of some of them (with stock power, admittedly).
I haven't seen any clutch slip yet, accelerating hard up a steep hill for 1/2 a mile. Delivery of the power is probably a big factor too, progressive development of the power has to be easier on the relevant parts than going from a nothing to everything development. I don't push into the clicky part of the accelerator generally, it just feels so un-natural to do so.
Looking at Andrew's latest 3+1 Dyno, when you reach 200PS output, torque curve dips to 485Nm max, and the torque really starts to tail off above 225PS output/3500rpm. You'll not be pushing the full 500Nm for long when you floor it.
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240bhp and 372.4lbft / 505nm!! at 2625rpm
Ay caramba :laugh:
Edit - Hi Andrew, what do the 1-4 + 1 settings correspond to on the unit, or are these just totally different mappings?
There's 4 maps on the box, plus 1 relates to the fine tuning :)
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Andrew,
Does 3+1 have less of a signal modification than 4+1 across the “map” (and presumably being more efficient through lower fuel usage at any given output), or is the shape of the “map” just slightly different? I have just filled up my car, so I’ll give it a tank’s run on 3+1 and see what I get.
Looking at the 2 dynos, the 4+1 has marginal power gains over 3+1 to 2400rpm (but with almost identical torque development from 2000-2500rpm). That is reversed from 2500rpm to 4000rpm, where the 3+1 edges it in both power and torque right through said range.
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Andrew,
Does 3+1 have less of a signal modification than 4+1 across the “map” (and presumably being more efficient through lower fuel usage at any given output), or is the shape of the “map” just slightly different? I have just filled up my car, so I’ll give it a tank’s run on 3+1 and see what I get.
Looking at the 2 dynos, the 4+1 has marginal power gains over 3+1 to 2400rpm (but with almost identical torque development from 2000-2500rpm). That is reversed from 2500rpm to 4000rpm, where the 3+1 edges it in both power and torque right through said range.
Did i give you some coloured graphs with the kit?
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Did i give you some coloured graphs with the kit?
I'm sure they were in the box (I remember seeing them), but the box is now up in the loft so i'd have to dig it out. I thought it might be a case of asking what the voltage increases were on your maps for both 3+1 and 4+1, then make the assumption that if 3+1 has a lower voltage increase across the range then it should be fuelling less than 4+1. Either way i'll give 3+1 a go when I get home tonight.
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Did i give you some coloured graphs with the kit?
I'm sure they were in the box (I remember seeing them), but the box is now up in the loft so i'd have to dig it out. I thought it might be a case of asking what the voltage increases were on your maps for both 3+1 and 4+1, then make the assumption that if 3+1 has a lower voltage increase across the range then it should be fuelling less than 4+1. Either way i'll give 3+1 a go when I get home tonight.
Im sure you have the same map 3 as me, give it a whirl and it shouldn't feel as aggressive in the lower rpm.
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Are you recommending 3+1 then Andrew as the optimum map?
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240bhp... :shocked:!! That is seriously impressive
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240bhp... :shocked:!! That is seriously impressive
Yip. That's why I'm fairly sure I will be investing in one when I receive my GTD :)
Will run it for a 1000 miles or so first then most likely bite the bullet.
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Had to pop to Screwfix to get a mini bit set as those T10 bits are so hard to come by for opening up the DTUK box.
Made the adjustment to 3+1 at Screwfix and drove the 2 miles home. It was wet (for the first time in quite a while) and I don't know whether I was just a bit enthusiastic, but I got my first taste of 3rd gear wheelspin on the move with the DTUK box, with the traction control kicking in very noticeably. I'll see what it is like on a real run tomorrow, whether it needs a bit more control on my part to avoid wheelspin in 3rd. If it does, I will probably switch back to 4+1.
I'll leave mpg out of it because I filled up with Shell (I had a £5 voucher that needed using) - and Esso with 80mL of Millers gives by far my best mpg. Shell without Millers (I added when I got home) gave me 41mpg for my first 15 miles.
So far on 4+1, the car has been transformed with the DTUK box.
Looking at the graphs for map modification settings that Andrew included with the box implies that the 3+1 setting would use less fuel to achieve its output as the signal alteration is noticeably lower than that for 4+1, although there are no implications of the car being wasteful with fuel in terms of soot generation - the cra is doing far less active DPF regenning than it was at stock.
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240bhp... :shocked:!! That is seriously impressive
Yip. That's why I'm fairly sure I will be investing in one when I receive my GTD :)
Will run it for a 1000 miles or so first then most likely bite the bullet.
+1
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240bhp... :shocked:!! That is seriously impressive
Yip. That's why I'm fairly sure I will be investing in one when I receive my GTD :)
Will run it for a 1000 miles or so first then most likely bite the bullet.
+1
+2
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Made the adjustment to 3+1 at Screwfix and drove the 2 miles home. It was wet (for the first time in quite a while) and I don't know whether I was just a bit enthusiastic, but I got my first taste of 3rd gear wheelspin on the move with the DTUK box, with the traction control kicking in very noticeably. I'll see what it is like on a real run tomorrow, whether it needs a bit more control on my part to avoid wheelspin in 3rd. If it does, I will probably switch back to 4+1.
Blimey, sounds a bit eager in 3+1! Have you driven in the wet with 4+1 much yet for comparison? Amazingly we've not had too much rain recently...
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Blimey, sounds a bit eager in 3+1! Have you driven in the wet with 4+1 much yet for comparison? Amazingly we've not had too much rain recently...
ffrank: We've hardly had any rain since I had the DTUK box fitted, and I know normally to be careful in 2nd gear (because you can easily spin the wheels on 4+1), but being eager to see what it could do, I did hoof it a bit.
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Just had my first drive to work with 3+1. Firstly, it was dry and uncharacteristically cold, which helps with the grip but not the mpg.
I could definitely tell the difference with this setting vs 4+1, but not in outright performance.
On 4+1, pretty much all of the throttle response feels sensitised, like having a pedal box on and seeing all of the stock response squeezed into the 1st 2/3 of pedal travel, but then having way more beyond it.
With 3+1, you can definitely tell there's less enhancement of the stock response for the first 1/4 of pedal travel, and then things start to feel enhanced. The car feels like stock to 2000 revs and really comes alive above 2500 revs.
I suppose from a mpg point of view, the car should perform a lot like stock for cruising, when you're not going to be doing more than 2200rpm doing 80mph, as the signal modifications to the common rail and turbo are less than at 4+1 at the same engine speed.
My indiicated mpg was a little down today (46.1) vs what i've been used to (47.2), but it could be down to a number of things:-
1. A change in fuel - now running Shell (because I had a £5 voucher), which seems less lively than Esso.
2. It was 5C this morning, as opposed to 9-11C i've seen in recent mornings.
3. If signal modification is less in 3+1 than 4+1, a lower indicated mpg in 3+1 might mean the same or similar actual mpg.
When I did put my foot down, I couldn't tell any noticeable difference in performance between 3+1 and 4+1 in the 2500-3500rpm zone - they're both really quick, and when you're talking 4 or 5 Hp difference on 235 Hp, that's only 2%.
Without considering the effects on mpg right now, I think i'm preferring the linear response of the 4+1 throughout the throttle travel rather than what feels like stock to 1/4 throttle then a whole lot more.
If there's like 5mpg between 3+1 and 4+1, i'll probably stick with the 3+1. I'll give it a tank of Diesel to see what the differences are, hoping that the warmer weather will come back so it's a true(ish) comparison.
There's a lot to be gained in either 3+1 or 4+1 vs stock.
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Well 3+1 didn't last long. I swapped back to 4+1 tonight, the lower end of 3+1 just seemed a bit lifeless, then it kicks in hard at 2500rpm. It just feels like Jekyll and Hyde. I really didn't want to run it on 3+1 for a whole tank.
Don't get me wrong, it's much better to have the 3+1 than be running stock, but 4+1 just feels so much better as an overall driving experience, and i'm happy to forgo 3 Hp/2 Nm max output to stick with the 4+1
I find the 4+1 a much better drive as the extra power is more accessible from lower down and builds up progressively - it just feels like it is always there on tap, whereas you're waiting for it to kick in on 3+1.
For less signal modification (and presumably less fuel used) with 3+1 giving more Hp and Nm is quite an achievement though. Maybe a hybrid map of 4+1 modification in the lower end and 3+1 above 2500rpm could yield the best of both worlds.
On opening the box, I lost my clear "window" piece down the front right corner of the engine department, amongst the mass of wiring between the right headlight and air intake/battery box. It pinged off when I unscrewed and split the casing for access to make adjustments, not to be seen again (totally my fault, being a bit careless). I'll have to tape the gap in the case for now and ask if I can acquire a spare off Andrew if possible :whistle:.
This little spell of playing around with the settings has taught me one thing - once you get used to 4+1, anything resembling stock feels very asthmatic in comparison. I would really miss not having the DTUK box on the car for any length of time now.
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Hi Matt,
I'll sort you a window, that's not a problem :)
Are you heading to the metro tomorrow?
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Hi Matt,
I'll sort you a window, that's not a problem :)
Are you heading to the metro tomorrow?
Not heading there tomorrow Andrew - I have a doctors appointment I have had to wait over 2 weeks for, seems only the hyperchondriacs that don't work can get to the docs in less than a week where I live. :grin:
Have you flitted between the maps much on the Skoda, and if so what is your favourite for everyday driving? I really think you nailed it with the 4+1, I would not be without the box now. My dad is pretty interested for his too, but his is a DSG, can it handle the torque without throwing up some faults? Have you had any 184PS GTD/VRS/A3 customers with DSG run your box yet?
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My brothers running the Skoda as I'm running a new S3 at the mo.
I preferred map 4 tbh :) as for Dsgs, we've tuned several of them now and again map 4 seams to be very popular too
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Do the DTUK boxes cause any extra smoke out of the exhaust?
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Do the DTUK boxes cause any extra smoke out of the exhaust?
You'll never see any smoke as you have a DPF, and if the boxes were causing smoke you'd be reading posts on here and other forums from customers having issues with blocked DPFs :)
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I was getting forced DPF regens every 250 miles or so before I had my box (which was hammering my mpg), and I had my first proper forced/active regen post-fitting of the box with 800 miles travelled since fitment. The car is set up to force a regen every 800 miles regardless of soot loading (just in case), so the one I had was always going to happen. The car seems happier to sit with oil temp at 95C as opposed to 90 (stock) now the box is on and I believe this is helping stave off the regens by allowing the DPF to get a little hotter in a shorter distance, aiding the soot burn.
I never had any forced regens when I had my Scirocco 170TDI, and that had a preference for warm oil temp to sit at 95C. With the Scirocco, my 12 mile commute was long enough to keep the DPF clean without forced regens, with the stock GTD, it wasn’t (more like 16 miles needed). I do suspect that the stock GTD has been set up a certain way for emissions purposes which makes it harder for the DPF to do its job passively vs Scirocco/MK6 Golf as the engine runs that little bit cooler (90C), so you need longer journeys as a result to keep the DPF clean passively.
My DPF operation is far less noticeable with the DTUK box on, as everything is happening passively now within my normal commute.
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Just thought I'd drop in here to give another thumbs up to DTUK's boxes. (Andrew I'm jumping ship from AON - same username)
I was running a red box on my Astra which is not as advanced as the Stage-2 system that I'll be adding to the Golf as soon as I get it run in :grin:
I'm hoping someone can, at some point, find some more info about the clutch rating on the GTD to ensure there are no issues later in the cars' life with the higher torque output.
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Just took the plunge and ordered the DTUK box. If all goes well should be here for Saturday.
Guys at DTUK have been great. Been speaking with Stuart off and on today and the customer service I have received has been great. Hope il be able to give you lads reading a good review come Monday...once I've ragged the sh*t out of it.
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Just took the plunge and ordered the DTUK box. If all goes well should be here for Saturday.
Guys at DTUK have been great. Been speaking with Stuart off and on today and the customer service I have received has been great. Hope il be able to give you lads reading a good review come Monday...once I've ragged the sh*t out of it.
You might have a tinker with the settings to try them all, but 4+1 is the dogs!
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Just took the plunge and ordered the DTUK box. If all goes well should be here for Saturday.
Guys at DTUK have been great. Been speaking with Stuart off and on today and the customer service I have received has been great. Hope il be able to give you lads reading a good review come Monday...once I've ragged the sh*t out of it.
You might have a tinker with the settings to try them all, but 4+1 is the dogs!
Well Stuart said he'd send it over set to 4+1 as he said it was the best setting. I could try 4 +2 but said it may feel quicker but the power delivery isn't as linear. Can't wait
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Well Stuart said he'd send it over set to 4+1 as he said it was the best setting. I could try 4 +2 but said it may feel quicker but the power delivery isn't as linear. Can't wait
You will love it. Feels like I have a 3.0TDI under the bonnet (the 245PS version, not the 204PS version)!
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Well Stuart said he'd send it over set to 4+1 as he said it was the best setting. I could try 4 +2 but said it may feel quicker but the power delivery isn't as linear. Can't wait
You will love it. Feels like I have a 3.0TDI under the bonnet (the 245PS version, not the 204PS version)!
That's cos its about 245ps that you've got! :evil:
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Is there a post anywhere that shows you where you would sit the box in the engine bay of the GTD?
If not, would it be possible for someone to upload one.
Cheers guys
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Is there a post anywhere that shows you where you would sit the box in the engine bay of the GTD?
If not, would it be possible for someone to upload one.
Cheers guys
It ideally sits in the gap between the battery housing and the air intake.
Engine cover on, you can see the box just on the far right (green bezel):-
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/monkeyhanger710/DSC02511.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/monkeyhanger710/media/DSC02511.jpg.html)
Engine cover off, you can see box on far right:-
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/monkeyhanger710/DSC02515.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/monkeyhanger710/media/DSC02515.jpg.html)
Box up close in its place:-
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/monkeyhanger710/DSC02513.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/monkeyhanger710/media/DSC02513.jpg.html)
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Have been reading with interest. Currently have a mk2 Octavia which was mapped my Shark. I've got a GTD on order which hopefully won't be much longer.
This box sounds like a no brained, my only concern is the car is leased so need to be absolutely sure the car can be put back to stock.
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Definitely able to return to stock, simply a case of unplugging the leads and plugging the connecters in as it was prior to fitting. Nothing to tell it was ever there!
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Thanks for the pics Monkeyhanger.
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Wasn't in over the weekend so missed the parcel being delivered. Should hopefully fit it tonight if the weather improves. However from looking at the installation guide, it looks pretty simple, however how on gods earth can you access the 3 pole boost pressure plug?! You'd have to be under the age of 12 to have hands small enough to unplug this surely?
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Wasn't in over the weekend so missed the parcel being delivered. Should hopefully fit it tonight if the weather improves. However from looking at the installation guide, it looks pretty simple, however how on gods earth can you access the 3 pole boost pressure plug?! You'd have to be under the age of 12 to have hands small enough to unplug this surely?
Very easy to access - and I have hands like shovels! Just remember to hold the locking tabs in as you pull plugs out. Gotta take mine off tomorrow as it'll be going in for some warranty work on Thurs.
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Wasn't in over the weekend so missed the parcel being delivered. Should hopefully fit it tonight if the weather improves. However from looking at the installation guide, it looks pretty simple, however how on gods earth can you access the 3 pole boost pressure plug?! You'd have to be under the age of 12 to have hands small enough to unplug this surely?
Very easy to access - and I have hands like shovels! Just remember to hold the locking tabs in as you pull plugs out. Gotta take mine off tomorrow as it'll be going in for some warranty work on Thurs.
And then with all the cables, surely you cant have them draped over the engine, so do you just lead them down to the front of the engine then up? Sorry if im not describing this very well, I just don't tinker under the hood. Also, do cable ties come with? ta
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And then with all the cables, surely you cant have them draped over the engine, so do you just lead them down to the front of the engine then up? Sorry if im not describing this very well, I just don't tinker under the hood. Also, do cable ties come with? ta
The cable conduits are routed around the engine in the same places as the conduits that are part of the car. They get wrapped around the current conduits to keep them in place and away from direct contact with hot engine surfaces. If you look at photos 2 and 3 above, you should have an idea of where to route them.
No cable ties required and a hell of a lot easier to get off in a hurry as a result. from where the box itself sits, the conduit for the common rail plug in goes pretty much towards the back of the bonnet, around the back of the engine and comes down the side and by the common rail. The other one for boost pressure doesn't go very far at all as the box is sat just the other side of the air intake.
Enjoy!
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Ive highlighted the cables from Matts photos
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/monkeyhanger710/DSC02515.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69038/184_zps43f27468.jpg)
The common rail loom runs along near the top of the engine just behind the block of polystyrene and i usually route it under the original black cables I've marked yellow.
The boost part of the loom simply runs around the front of the air box :)
the box itself sits in-between the battery and air box :)
Hope this helps
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Great, top man! Hopefully il be able to fit this tonight, light permitting. Won't be back till 8. DESPERATE to fit this. Shame roads are sodden though, keen to rag it on the dry roads
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Great, top man! Hopefully il be able to fit this tonight, light permitting. Won't be back till 8. DESPERATE to fit this. Shame roads are sodden though, keen to rag it on the dry roads
Park under a street light and get the torch out! With Andrew's highlighted pic, it should be a 5 to 10 min fit. Park up, pop the bonnet, lock up. Take the engine cover off (it just pulls off with 4 or 5 frictionally held pegs, route the cables and box without plugging anything in yet. By the time you've done that, the 5 mins wait for ECU power down will be done and you can unplug the original plugs, plug them into the loom and plug the other loom ends into the sockets on the common rail and the air box. Make sure the box is plugged into the loom, put it in place between the battery and the air intake box. Then you're ready to switch the engine on and everything should be ticking over nicely. Press the engine cover back on, into the peg holes (best to line up the oil filler hole first), drop the bonnet and have some fun.
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Rains on...great. have to be tomorrow morning if I have time, but il make sure I make the time. Wanted to blast it to work in the morning
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A monkey could fit this! Off to work now....yeh boi. This will be fun
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A monkey could fit this! Off to work now....yeh boi. This will be fun
All in? Give us an update when you get to work.
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Yup, all in, double checked!
Roads are pretty wet here and its a 16 mile trip to work with most of the commute being 50/60 and 70mph speed restrictions. First and second don't appear to be drastically different (obviously) but I couldn't boot it off the line anyway due to the slippery roads, but 3rd and 4th are brilliant.
As standard the power always appeared to almost tail off if not reduce pretty quickly past 3,500 rpm but with the box fitted this thing just keeps pulling at an alarming rate in 4th gear, you really can boot this up to near the red line and power seems to come from nowhere.
There is a bit before you exit the motorway cutting off towards Dunfermline to the top end of Rosyth where I floored it in 4th to a speed I shall not repeat on here but my god it got there so bloody quickly!!! Just cant wait to try this from a standing start in the dry. Overall impressions are positive, however I want to try this in the dry before I praise it to high heaven!
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As you’ve already said, 3rd to 6th are phenomenally different. Above 70mph, unless you want a massive shove, you can quite easily leave it in 6th and accelerate to 80 when a gap opens up, rather than change down to 4th. 5th is probably the least used gear on my car, if I’m maintaining a speed between 30 and 40mph, I’ll have 5th, but if I’m accelerating it’s generally 3rd, then 4th to get to the speed I want and slot it into 6th to maintain it.
I wouldn’t expect too much from 1st and 2nd unless you have some extremely grippy tyres. Even in bone dry conditions without the box on, I could cause wheel spin in 1st and 2nd with my Bridgestone tyres. With the box on, you may get nowhere by hoofing from a standing start, except massively shorter tyre life.
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Got the car in for some warranty work today, so the box came off yesterday....what a difference without it. It just feels so sluggish right now in stock form.
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I bet it does! I've had great fun driving to work today. 4th gear when it gets to 80 and you keep accelerating almost feels like you've strapped a massive frickin turbo to the car, so so good. Also loved powering up a huge hill after a roundabout in 3rd...smashed a boy in the new FR. Power just seems to keep coming, loving this!!!!
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Has anyone tested the 0-60 time with the box?
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Andrew,
I have a CRD2+ box which I used on my previous A3 what is the difference between this and the CRD T that everyone is using. Is it a case of mapping? My one only plugs into the common rail.
Thanks
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Has anyone tested the 0-60 time with the box?
Been far too wet for that here in Scotland, but when I get a chance il report back.
The dramatic difference is in 3rd and up however you can tell there's a marginal increase in first and slightly more in 2nd. The torque is unreal though, you just can't floor it in 2nd on wet let alone damp roads. You need to commit to like 70% of throttle at the most or you'll just hammer through the tyres
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Andrew,
I have a CRD2+ box which I used on my previous A3 what is the difference between this and the CRD T that everyone is using. Is it a case of mapping? My one only plugs into the common rail.
Thanks
The CRD-T controls the boost as well as the fuelling, where as the CRD2+ is common rail only.
Depending on the age of the box and where and when it was purchased we maybe able to upgrade the hardware, but this does depend on the age of the kit as some of the firmware/software protocols were changed about 5 months ago..
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Has anyone tested the 0-60 time with the box?
Probably pointless without excellent tyres, the standard GTD is hampered with lack of initial grip, add a DTUK box and it's just as bad. I would expect the 40-100mph figure to be quicker than a GTI PP (unmodified), as I've shown up a 221ps old shape Focus ST by a noticeable margin from 60-90. From 0-30 the GTD isn't particularly quick, and adding more power isn't going to improve 1st and 2nd gear acceleration. 3rd to 6th is where the DTUK box will wow. Glad to have refitted my box.
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FFS Admiral don't allow a engine modification 26% and over, said they cant insure me. What the hell do I do now
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FFS Admiral don't allow a engine modification 26% and over, said they cant insure me. What the hell do I do now
Have you told them you bought it yet? If not, see Andrew about the insurance scheme.
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FFS Admiral don't allow a engine modification 26% and over, said they cant insure me. What the hell do I do now
give me a call :)
And for future reference if anyone is considering tuning their GTD please give me a call before speaking to your insurers :)
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Thanks for all your help Andrew. Service has been great :wink:
Edit: parcel came today, cheers
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Well...3 out of 3. Smashed a type r up a hill in 4th, demolished some dobber in a new mx5 off the line up to 60 and a mate in his standard c220. Loving this
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1st run on dry roads, managed to time car 0-60 in 6.7 seconds for all that are interested. Could do a 6.5 easy
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What's your mpg's like now?
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What's your mpg's like now?
Are you picking a box up tonight?
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What's your mpg's like now?
Are you picking a box up tonight?
Did your "Dad" go for the Cable ? I would be interested to know how it goes with a DSG gearbox.
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karlak: Not yet he hasn't. Haven't heard from him for a few weeks, but he's just gone on holiday.
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What's your mpg's like now?
Are you picking a box up tonight?
Best laid plans and all that crap. Every time I want to go up something else 'more important' comes up!
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Mpg for me was always circa 40/41, with 39 being my long term lol. Was ragging it everywhere. But with box when driving on mway for a fair distance been well in to the 50s. But i dont know if that computer tricks. Do see a full tank lasting longer though
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Mpg for me was always circa 40/41, with 39 being my long term lol. Was ragging it everywhere. But with box when driving on mway for a fair distance been well in to the 50s. But i dont know if that computer tricks. Do see a full tank lasting longer though
The computer does overestimate more with the box on, but even so, I think you're doing better with it. If that 41/42 was actual, then MFD indicated was probably 44. 50mpg indicated with the box is probably 45/46 actual, but as you say, that is a long journey. i'm getting far better performance for same mpg with the box on.
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What are insurance companies views on these? Anyone with Elephant got one?
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What are insurance companies views on these? Anyone with Elephant got one?
Just sent you some info via text stuart
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What are insurance companies views on these? Anyone with Elephant got one?
Just sent you some info via text stuart
Hi Andrew,
Could you please send me through the same information?
I'm taking delivery of a GTD later in the week, I would be very interested in a box depending on how the insurance works out?
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What are insurance companies views on these? Anyone with Elephant got one?
Just sent you some info via text stuart
Hi Andrew,
Could you please send me through the same information?
I'm taking delivery of a GTD later in the week, I would be very interested in a box depending on how the insurance works out?
I've been watching this thread for some time and I am seriously tempted. I too would appreciate more info on insurance which is probably my main concern
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As ive found out this morning More Than wont allow any modification even though its available to choose on the dropdown on the onlione service. Pretty poor really.
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What are insurance companies views on these? Anyone with Elephant got one?
Just sent you some info via text stuart
Hi Andrew,
Could you please send me through the same information?
I'm taking delivery of a GTD later in the week, I would be very interested in a box depending on how the insurance works out?
I've been watching this thread for some time and I am seriously tempted. I too would appreciate more info on insurance which is probably my main concern
if you give me a call i can explain how we can make the kits more attractive to your insurers..
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I outdid an A4 Saloon 3.0TDI Quattro (245PS) on the way to work this morning from 30 to 100 on a bit of empty road :evil: It was extremely close, but I just about edged it, then straight back down to 80 on the dual carriageway. My missus was in the car and not best pleased with me. :whistle:
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I outdid an A4 Saloon 3.0TDI Quattro (245PS) on the way to work this morning from 30 to 100 on a bit of empty road :evil: It was extremely close, but I just about edged it, then straight back down to 80 on the dual carriageway. My missus was in the car and not best pleased with me. :whistle:
Love it, the power is sounding incredible. I would have been in for some scalding had that been me and my other half :rolleyes: she is right most the time though :grin:
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Andrew, would you be able to message me some info regarding the box and insurers please. Many thanks!
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Andrew my GTD is here in about 4 weeks and I've got every intention of having the box shortly after :smug: so am also looking at insurance advice.
Regards.
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regarding insurance, if you can give me a call i can explain how we can help :whistle:
Im available on 01207 299538
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I'll be in touch soon as well Andrew - looks like May will be a good month for business! haha
Could you possibly give us a general overview of what the insurance scheme entails to save as many people asking?
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id rather leave the finer details to a phone call rather than discussing it on the forum :)
But if you check out this link it may give you an idea..
http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/box-details.php?id=18
But its worth taking 5 minutes out of your day to give us a call.
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Hi Andrew
I'm probably getting a GTD shortly as a company car, i.e. Leased. Could you mail me info re insurance for that situation please?
Thanks
Jem
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Jem, give us a call and we can explain how we can hel
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Jem, give us a call and we can explain how we can hel
Hi Andrew - thanks but I'm just so busy during the day it's practically impossible. What's your number and I'll try some time - don't know how to pm you my number!!!
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01207299538 office hours
07977466007 out of hours
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I'm in a similar situation with car on lease. Just phoned and spoke to Stuart who was very helpful. :smiley:
Hopefully can find a suitable insurer. Not sure wether I need to notify the lease company, I believe I just have to make sure car is not modified and in good condition on return.
Only additional concern is that I have a maintenance contract that states 'fair wear and tear'. I wonder if they have strict ideas about how long tyres and clutches should last. :undecided:
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I wonder if they have strict ideas about how long tyres and clutches should last. :undecided:
They will. If your tyres are lasting half as long on average as other GTDs on their fleet they may start asking questions, the same with things such as clutches. But that's down to you not the tuning box...
If you drive relatively normally and use controls normally, there shouldn't be an issue... tyre wear and clutch wear should be acceptable. If you drive like an idiot they may not be with or without a tuning box
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I'm a fairly quick driver though I think mechanically sypmathetic.
The Eagle F1's on my current Stage 1 Octavia are down to 4/5mm after 23000 miles. :grin:
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Would they really try and quantify clutch wear? As far as they're concerned, the clutch is operational at point of hand-back inspection or it isn't. As long as the tyres are legal (maybe insistence of at least 3mm tread)
Biggest lease company concerns are "is it working" and visual appearance, looking for dings, dents, scuffs, scratches to either the bodywork, wheels and interior as well as seat wear. Stone chips are usually considered fair wear and tear to a point, but depends who you're dealing with and how many you've got.
Once that car is back with the lease company it'll be going to auction in the vast majority of cases, it just needs to look tidy.
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It's more the maintenance side of it that concerns me.
When I looked at the BVRLA guide for acceptable fair wear and tear I was appalled! I keep my cars good nick, regular washing, quality wax. Always careful where I leave it etc.
Anyway, back on topic.
Re insurance, I've 3 months left on my current policy. Changing from the vRS to the GTd I get a refund on £9! Decided to do that and just run it standard for now. After three months I'll reassess and that would be the time to either fit the box and find a amicable insurer or if I'm happy with it, leave it as standard.
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Would they really try and quantify clutch wear?
They would if you were wearing a clutch out through abuse every 20K miles... the cost of replacing those eats into their profits. Same with tyres, if you're replacing the front pair every 5K miles... Any "excessive" maintenance costs are highlighted through reporting...
This is about the predictability of margins for these businesses. In spite of what you might think, the margins are fairly tight. \they know that on average at the end of the lease they are likely to return 92-97% of CAP Clean values for the better kept cars, hence their statements about fair wear and tear. Every extra pound they spend on maintenance reduces that return.
If you are way out of line on maintenance, they will take action...
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Someone going through a clutch at 20k miles deserves to be nailed to the wall, they would never expect to have to replace a clutch for you within the term of your lease, and for abuse like that the clutch would be considered a wear and tear item that the driver is usually responsible for unless we're talking catastrophic failure that the warranty would cover. But for someone with a car handed back on its original clutch which was working fine, they wouldn't try to measure the clutch wear to determine if it was fair wear or not. I would normally expect to replace teh tyres at my own cost on a lease unless i'd taken out a full maintenance package with it.
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But for someone with a car handed back on its original clutch which was working fine, they wouldn't try to measure the clutch wear to determine if it was fair wear or not.
I never said they would measure the clutch wear. But, if it needed replacingat say 40K miles but showed signs of abuse...
As for tyres etc. most business leases will have full maintenance.
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The clutch on my Astra needed done at 35K miles. I often have a heavy right foot but I am definitely not sore on the clutch. They stripped it down and said there was play in the flywheel and that was enough reason that they would cover it under warranty. Otherwise I was looking at £2500.
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Understood. There was a manufacturing fault that caused your clutch to fail.
The point here is, that if you're clutch fails from abuse (the heat causes bluing of the metals, premature wear on clutch bearings etc are strong indicators of prolonged heavy duty use) in the case of clutches, there are similar indicators for brakes and so on...
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01207299538 office hours
07977466007 out of hours
Andrew, in case you didn't know, I called a week or so ago and spoke to your brother - very informative. Will definitely be getting one of these. Have only just put my order in though so expect a delivery some time in August :angry:
Will get in touch nearer the time for the box - will the discount still apply then???
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Extremely interested in getting one of these boxes from what I have read on this forum. I only took delivery last week so taking things steady, but am already impressed with the power of the engine from the few brief moments I've given it the beans, so can only imagine the difference the box would make.
Just wondering how many miles should I put on before I look into this?
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smorg00: I'd get at least a thousand on to let the car run in and be sure there aren't any obvious build issues that'd manifest themselves with in the first 1000 miles.
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This and the other thread are cracking and am seriously tempted with the prospect of "improved drivability" :rolleyes: once run-in. Obviously clutch and brakes are affected but would also be interested to know the impact this has on other parts e.g. Turbo and if this engine has any known internal weaknesses as yet.
Currently own a Focus ST3 mk2 (5pot) and it's worrying the increase in owners experiencing cracked cylinder liners especially post mapping. Also, I take it for diesels the advice is still the same following an energetic drive that the turbo is allowed to spool down before switching off?
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Must say a big thank you to Monkeyhanger for hours of interesting reading on this and other threads on the forum. Have kept me entertained whilst Ive waited for my build week . 25 finally confirmed :laugh:
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Picked mine up this Saturday and only managed a meagre 135 miles so far but absolutely love it already. I'm being gentle (ish) with her to start with so will give it a couple of thousand miles before I consider the box but the figures and experiences do seem pretty bloody good!
A lot of questions about insurance but would you really need to tell them? If it's that quick / easy to remove, couldn't you just take it out if you have an accident?
It also sounds like the box is only set to give differing power / torque increases on the settings. Is there not a setting that would just give better fuel economy if I feel like being a bit of a grandad or have the kids in the car? Also, is it a 5 second job to switch between the settings or a little more drawn out?
Thanks in advance.
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A lot of questions about insurance but would you really need to tell them? If it's that quick / easy to remove, couldn't you just take it out if you have an accident?
Always best to inform your insurer, even for non-performance upgrades as technically, these are also modifications and the insurer could void your cover when you need it most if you've not told them.
What would happen if (God forbid) you had quite a serious accident and couldn't get to the box to remove it before your insurer's claims engineer inspected the car? They could refuse to pay your claim on the basis of not declaring a modification, invalidate your policy, in which case you'd have been driving without insurance, which would bring all sorts of complications; getting a criminal record, cost of getting insurance in the future etc.
Not worth the hassle or the risk of not telling your insurer. If they want to charge too much to cover the performance upgrade, there are modification-friendly insurers out there so you could switch insurers.
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Dropping back in on this. Put off buying one before as I was hoping to change my other car but as that's not really progressing I'll treat myself to a box.
I know it's been mentioned earlier but can't find it in thread. What's the extra discount that DTUK offer to forum menbers and how do I get it?
I know 4+1 is the recommended setting. Do I just leave the car in Normal mode or do I also put it in sport? Any benefit to Sport? TBH 'sport' setting seem to be more about lights/air con/fake noise than it does about actually being sporty!
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Something wrong with your car then if you can't feel the steering tighten and throttle response sharpen.
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Dropping back in on this. Put off buying one before as I was hoping to change my other car but as that's not really progressing I'll treat myself to a box.
I know it's been mentioned earlier but can't find it in thread. What's the extra discount that DTUK offer to forum menbers and how do I get it?
I know 4+1 is the recommended setting. Do I just leave the car in Normal mode or do I also put it in sport? Any benefit to Sport? TBH 'sport' setting seem to be more about lights/air con/fake noise than it does about actually being sporty!
Rick, we offer £80 off the full RRP on the CRD-T by using the discount code GTD80 online or by calling us on 01207 299538
cheers
Andrew
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McMaddy I was about to reply something similar but Rick was comparing the Normal to Sport and apart from the steering / sound I don't actually feel much difference in throttle response.
I certainly do comparing Eco to Sport but not Normal to Sport!
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You should definitely be able to feel a difference in throttle response from normal to sport.
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P3asa might have the same issue I seem to have (and a number of others here report to have) - when the car won't respond as if in Sport until you change of of sport and then back into it (but all the other sport things are engaged, like soundaktor, steering weighting etc). I will ask Pulman to take a look at it when my car is in for it's first service in 11 days time.
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Maybe I'm just expecting too much.
There is a definite change from Anything to Eco.
But I can't say there is a definite change from General to Sport, at a push possibly slightly more responsive but I don't know if that is psychological as the growl comes on (I have sport and sound) and its a fair growl.
Monkeyhanger I've read the issues with the mode defaulting to general and you have to cycle back to general then back to sport again. So I've been doing that every time I get in the car just in case. Was it not yourself that noticed this "phenomenon" but had been driving about with it on Sport when in fact it was stuck on normal? That to me itself suggests its not glaringly obvious.
I'll have a further play with it as I've generally put it into one mode for a journey and left it there.
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Today's been really eventful, this morning I introduced "trevor" to monkeyhanger and from what I've heard they're getting on like a house on fire :)
This afternoon I took our Skoda and "Trevor" back to the dyno, and even in these temps
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsae052e79.jpg)
"Trevor" was full of surprises :)
No doubt I'll be introducing "Trevor" to you all in a few weeks time, but if anyone would like to know about him, then drop me a pm :)
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Today's been really eventful, this morning I introduced "trevor" to monkeyhanger and from what I've heard they're getting on like a house on fire :)
Calling it "amy" might've sounded a bit less gay. :grin:
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I know you've said PM for more information but should it be obvious what "Trevor" is meant to do?
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I know you've said PM for more information but should it be obvious what "Trevor" is meant to do?
Well this thread is about tuning boxes and their development so I'd take a well educated guess that Trevor is a piece of deep fried chicken that was cooked on the dyno yesterday :whistle:
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I know you've said PM for more information but should it be obvious what "Trevor" is meant to do?
It's as obvious as 2 plus 2 making 4 :)
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Going to be interesting to see how well this tank of fuel does!
My best tank so far is 46mpg calculated via fuelly, currently the computer says 55mpg. If its reading 10% optimistic that will still be 49.5mpg which will be an improvement with the box fitted!
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haha ok so when viewing the image on the computer and not my phone it's fairly obvious what Trevor is. Any ideas of figures then MH?
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haha ok so when viewing the image on the computer and not my phone it's fairly obvious what Trevor is. Any ideas of figures then MH?
It's too early to give you anything concrete, and I'm sworn to secrecy. Andrew will reveal all shortly and I don't want to steal his thunder. It's all good though.
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haha ok so when viewing the image on the computer and not my phone it's fairly obvious what Trevor is. Any ideas of figures then MH?
It's too early to give you anything concrete, and I'm sworn to secrecy. Andrew will reveal all shortly and I don't want to steal his thunder. It's all good though.
Fair enough mate. You still after a few VCDS tweaks? Have to rearrange a meet up if you are.
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It's about time I introduced Trevor to you all.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4d6ae635.jpg)
Trevor has been in the pipeline for a while and will be officially launched later this month, but is currently available for any GT/GTD owner with the latest 150/184ps TDis
Well post more details at a later date, but basically this new updated system comes with 3 programmes rather than 4, and has a push button keypad to make any adjustments.
We did conduct some dyno tests last Saturday when it was rather warm..
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsae052e79.jpg)
The CRDT produced 229bhp and 499nm, several minutes later "Trevor" produced 239bhp and 515nm using the same software.
We've been testing this kit for a while and have several 184 owners running this kit and the feedback has all been positive.
As previously mentioned, this kit is now available to members of the forum but not on general release til later this month.
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Pleased to meet you Trevor. Hopefully, sometime after I pick up my gtd on 11th august we can get properly acquainted. :cool:
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Any ideas on price difference yet?
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I've comprehensively tried out all the settings to give Andrew my opinion on each, and as my new box is set up, 3+1 is the clear winner for driving feel, smoothness across the range, responsiveness in mid and high load, and mpg. I believe Andrew has made tweaks to the maps based on mine and a few other's recommendations, and the settings on mine in 3+1 will be the new 3+2. Being able to change the maps at the press of a few buttons rather than removing the box from the car and opening it up to make changes is very handy.
You can feel that the new 3+1 (3+2) is a bit more powerful than the old box on 4+1.
Unlike the mapping options, being able to whip this off the car in 5 mins for warranty and servicing is a real plus. Mine is in for it's first service on Monday.
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Any ideas on price difference yet?
If purchased before the official launch the price is the same Kyle, £365.95 imc vat carriage and the £80 forum discount
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Cheers for pricing info.
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Is 4+1 still the way to go on the 'old' box? I haven't tried any other settings :/
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I've comprehensively tried out all the settings to give Andrew my opinion on each, and as my new box is set up, 3+1 is the clear winner for driving feel, smoothness across the range, responsiveness in mid and high load, and mpg. I believe Andrew has made tweaks to the maps based on mine and a few other's recommendations, and the settings on mine in 3+1 will be the new 3+2. Being able to change the maps at the press of a few buttons rather than removing the box from the car and opening it up to make changes is very handy.
You can feel that the new 3+1 (3+2) is a bit more powerful than the old box on 4+1.
Unlike the mapping options, being able to whip this off the car in 5 mins for warranty and servicing is a real plus. Mine is in for it's first service on Monday.
If andrews made tweaks then do you think we with the old unit can have the new updated version?
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Does the new package sit in the same location as the last one?
How much longer does it take to fit?
I see it's easier to change maps, but why would you want to? Surely better to leave it on the best setting (3+2?).
-----------------------Edit
DOH - Ignore me, it's all there for me to find!
1. Looks to be same part as the old unit, with extra functions (I thought it was a additional new part you fitted in the cabin)
2. Should take the same amount of time to fit, see point 1!
3. You can change maps to suit your driving style
Let me know if i've misunderstood and posted some fibs.
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Does the new package sit in the same location as the last one?
How much longer does it take to fit?
I see it's easier to change maps, but why would you want to? Surely better to leave it on the best setting (3+2?).
-----------------------Edit
DOH - Ignore me, it's all there for me to find!
1. Looks to be same part as the old unit, with extra functions (I thought it was a additional new part you fitted in the cabin)
2. Should take the same amount of time to fit, see point 1!
3. You can change maps to suit your driving style
Let me know if i've misunderstood and posted some fibs.
It's a slightly smaller box, fitted in the same way, in the same place. No reason why the old box shouldn't be able to get new box 3+2 (3+1 on mine as it's currently set up) settings with a reprogram, the increments on the fine tuning need to be altered from 75mV per increment on old box to 50mV on the new one so you can do old map 4 +100mV.
Just drove my car to it's first service with no box on and no Miller's in the tank. 46mpg for a 23,mile journey....very poor. Can't wait to put the box back on.
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Can I exchange my old box for a new one? :rolleyes:
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Finally ordered one today. Glad I delayed tbh as I having the latest model is a bonus. :smiley:
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Just fitted :smiley:
Tried to ring earlier to check I'd done it correctly but lost signal, sorry about that.
Nice upgrade and I feel worth the money. I wouldn't say it turns the car into a properly fast car (i've been spoilt), but it does give a good bit of extra oompf in the midrange. I don't think it's a substitute for petrol but it does make it an incredibly fast diesel. Maybe I need to play with it more to get the most out of it. Set box to P3+2 and drove car in Sport and Normal, def helpful for overtaking!
As has been said, fairly easy to fit. I took some pics just incase I made a mistake but thankfully didn't. Posted below as reference for others.
Cheers
Delivery arrived, next day service :smiley:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05111910.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05111910.jpg.html)
What's in the box. CRDt unit, cabling, blanking plate, 2 cable ties, detailed instructions and invoice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05111933.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05111933.jpg.html)
Switch car completely off for 5 min before starting.
Open bonnet and you'll find this - Plastic cover simply pulls off in each corner
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05112734.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05112734.jpg.html)
Locate sensor #1 - it's in the 9 o'clock position with some wires going into it. Very fiddly to remove as you can't see the clasp underneath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05112959.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05112959.jpg.html)
If you look at the coolant sensor, it's the same design. Easy to practice removal using that one but don't forget to reconnect it!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114211.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114211.jpg.html)
Locate sensor #2 - Much easier access to this one
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05113940.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05113940.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05113946.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05113946.jpg.html)
The CDRt cable has numbered ends. Install 1 on 1 and 2 on 2.
The connectors sit inbetween the original sensor so you should have nothing left open at the end
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114312.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114312.jpg.html)
Both sensors fitted and loose end connects to control box
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114502.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114502.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114603.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114603.jpg.html)
A tidy up of cabling. I have gone to back of engine and then down alongside airbox
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05115243.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05115243.jpg.html)
This is the time to test the unit and check there are no electrical errors
If all seems good, add your cable ties, locate your control unit and replace the plastic cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05115552.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05115552.jpg.html)
Now time to go for a drive :smiley:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-04152804.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-04152804.jpg.html)
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Just taught a Civic R type (2013) a lesson in humility on the A19. :whistle:
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Hi guys i have just joined the site so hello everyone .
My gtd came friday and im so pleased with it.i have been reading this thread for a bit now and i will be passed the 2k mark by the end of next week.
Sorry Andrew but i cant find the pm button when do you launch this new box ???
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Would really like one of these boxes but i'm still concerned about insurance, what sort of premium increases are people seeing and any problems with particular companies, I'm currently with Aviva?
Thanks, Andy
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Hi guys i have just joined the site so hello everyone .
My gtd came friday and im so pleased with it.i have been reading this thread for a bit now and i will be passed the 2k mark by the end of next week.
Sorry Andrew but i cant find the pm button when do you launch this new box ???
You need 10 posts before you can PM anyone.
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Just fitted :smiley:
Tried to ring earlier to check I'd done it correctly but lost signal, sorry about that.
Nice upgrade and I feel worth the money. I wouldn't say it turns the car into a properly fast car (i've been spoilt), but it does give a good bit of extra oompf in the midrange. I don't think it's a substitute for petrol but it does make it an incredibly fast diesel. Maybe I need to play with it more to get the most out of it. Set box to P3+2 and drove car in Sport and Normal, def helpful for overtaking!
As has been said, fairly easy to fit. I took some pics just incase I made a mistake but thankfully didn't. Posted below as reference for others.
Cheers
Delivery arrived, next day service :smiley:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05111910.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05111910.jpg.html)
What's in the box. CRDt unit, cabling, blanking plate, 2 cable ties, detailed instructions and invoice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05111933.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05111933.jpg.html)
Switch car completely off for 5 min before starting.
Open bonnet and you'll find this - Plastic cover simply pulls off in each corner
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05112734.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05112734.jpg.html)
Locate sensor #1 - it's in the 9 o'clock position with some wires going into it. Very fiddly to remove as you can't see the clasp underneath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05112959.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05112959.jpg.html)
If you look at the coolant sensor, it's the same design. Easy to practice removal using that one but don't forget to reconnect it!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114211.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114211.jpg.html)
Locate sensor #2 - Much easier access to this one
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05113940.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05113940.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05113946.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05113946.jpg.html)
The CDRt cable has numbered ends. Install 1 on 1 and 2 on 2.
The connectors sit inbetween the original sensor so you should have nothing left open at the end
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114312.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114312.jpg.html)
Both sensors fitted and loose end connects to control box
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114502.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114502.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05114603.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05114603.jpg.html)
A tidy up of cabling. I have gone to back of engine and then down alongside airbox
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05115243.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05115243.jpg.html)
This is the time to test the unit and check there are no electrical errors
If all seems good, add your cable ties, locate your control unit and replace the plastic cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-05115552.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-05115552.jpg.html)
Now time to go for a drive :smiley:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/2014-08-04152804.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/2014-08-04152804.jpg.html)
Rick,
did you not look at the photo we sent showing where and how to route the cables?
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69047/184_zpse7bfb42b.jpg)
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Yes I saw it but but then realised I would have to undo stuff again to thread it under the airbox plumbing.
Had already seated the cables and they seemed safe away from any hot parts so I didn't think it would be an issue. Is it?
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Yes I saw it but but then realised I would have to undo stuff again to thread it under the airbox plumbing.
I've tried to keep it away from any hot parts.
no need to remove anything Rick, I've had 3 customers fall foul of melted looms hence the reason why we send the recommend route..
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Andrew just watch the recommended route as I caught my loom at the back left next to the polystyrene block.
I can only presume it caught on the engine cover.
The plastic shroud is dented in. Is there a way I can check the leads are ok?
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Ok, i'll see about changing it round. :smiley:
Is the #2 cable routed to the front of the airbox and then doubled back on itself under the pipework to the control unit? I'm not 100% looking at the pic.
What are those yellow dots on the pic?
Cheers
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The loom goes under those yellow dots. You need to unclip it first.
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Now i'm totally confused.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/ABYSS69047/184_zpse7bfb42b.jpg)
This is how i'm understanding your pic. Hope mine makes sense.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/Stealthdog/184_zpse7bfb42b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Stealthdog/media/184_zpse7bfb42b.jpg.html)
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Ok Monkeyhanger thanks
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Just to update on my thoughts regards performance.
Had a good run out last night on a mixture of roads. Some sections with heavy traffic requiring multiple overtakes, some very quiet. Car is much improved on what it was when it's on song gives a very urgent surge and allows for some very quick real road driving.
I also like the fact there is enough torque to accelerate in 6th from motorway revs.
Not really looked at economy but it didn't seem any worse than normal which is excellent really as I was pushing on a lot more than I usually do.
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Been away in Portugal for the last 10 days to a car that has the engine management light on again with no acceleration. Took DTUK box off and all is well...but my god....this car was sllooooooooowwww. So used to it with the box. Cant wait to fit this again ASAP providing it works
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Apologies if this has already been answered before (its a long thread!) - but what is the max. torque limit of the GTD clutch/flywheel?
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Apologies if this has already been answered before (its a long thread!) - but what is the max. torque limit of the GTD clutch/flywheel?
It's a bit of an unknown for manuals. Officially DSG boxes don't like to be above 450Nm, manuals are probably more resilient, less to go wrong. You need to look around and see who's reported prematurely slipping clutches when mapping or adding a tuning box. Very few stories on Google for any box, I found an Alfa and a few Renaults when I scoured the net. Done almost 6k miles now with the DTUK box and no ill effects.
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I'm thinking of selling my box if anyone interested....
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Cheers MH! Yeah I've tried doing the same research and no one really knows.
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I'm thinking of selling my box if anyone interested....
Hi. What box do you have, and why are you selling it? Are you not impressed with it?
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I have the CRD-T box. About a month old. Reason is that my GTD is a company car and I had to sign a renewal disclaimer to say that the car wasn't modified in any way, never had to sign one before but don't wanna risk it now I've signed.
More than impressed with the box, totally transforms the car in every single gear. Pm me if interested
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I have the CRD-T box. About a month old. Reason is that my GTD is a company car and I had to sign a renewal disclaimer to say that the car wasn't modified in any way, never had to sign one before but don't wanna risk it now I've signed.
More than impressed with the box, totally transforms the car in every single gear. Pm me if interested
I'm new to this forum and can't see where the option is to pm you
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You need to have made 10 posts before the PM option appears.
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+1 ^^^
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You need to have made 10 posts before the PM option appears.
That explains why then, thanks
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You need to have made 10 posts before the PM option appears.
That explains why then, thanks
This does not mean you go around the forum spamming topics with "." in order to get your post count up. Make a valid contribution.
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Not sure if it was on this thread but had read that people were experiencing problems when starting their car from cold, I.e car would turn over several times before firing up.
I don't have a tuning box fitted and mine has had this problem from day one, so it's not the box causing the problem
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Does anyone here have the dtuk box fitted to their GTD with the DSG gear box? If so, any problems with the increase in torque produced from the tuning box?
Have read that the DSG box can only handle upto 450 and not the 500 the tuning box can produce
Thanks
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Andrew, what's the difference between the old map and most aggressive (4+1)on the older unit than this new 3+1 on the new unit? As is it worth me sending you my unit to update? Ta
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Andrew, what's the difference between the old map and most aggressive (4+1)on the older unit than this new 3+1 on the new unit? As is it worth me sending you my unit to update? Ta
no difference whatsoever where software is concerned
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Have received my crd-t+ box from dtuk, now to go and fit it :)
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Great. Let us know what you think Mark as I am very interested once I've put a few miles on the clock. How many miles on yours mate?
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Have received my crd-t+ box from dtuk, now to go and fit it :)
All fitted, I have set the box to program 3 +1. Is it normal for the lights to flash or should they be permanently on? P3 is flashing green and +1 is flashing red.
Not taken the car out yet for a test run
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Great. Let us know what you think Mark as I am very interested once I've put a few miles on the clock. How many miles on yours mate?
Will do, it has 5500 on it now so it's well run in
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Have received my crd-t+ box from dtuk, now to go and fit it :)
All fitted, I have set the box to program 3 +1. Is it normal for the lights to flash or should they be permanently on? P3 is flashing green and +1 is flashing red.
Not taken the car out yet for a test run
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=266760.msg2472009#msg2472009
Hope this helped but one of the guys who have one will be able to tell you more
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Have received my crd-t+ box from dtuk, now to go and fit it :)
All fitted, I have set the box to program 3 +1. Is it normal for the lights to flash or should they be permanently on? P3 is flashing green and +1 is flashing red.
Not taken the car out yet for a test run
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=266760.msg2472009#msg2472009
Hope this helped but one of the guys who have one will be able to tell you more
I missed that post, thanks. Mine is all good then.
Ok have taken the car for a 12 mile test run, with the setting at P3+2 and can honestly say what a difference the box has made!
Started in Eco mode and instantly noticed there was very little lag and so responsive. I really didn't like Eco mode before as you needed to plant your foot to get it to go........not anymore! It's so much better.
Then onto Normal mode, again so responsive. The pick up due to the extra torque is very noticeable
Sport mode, just when I thought it couldn't pull any harder, it did.
Although this was a short test drive, to me it has made a huge difference.
I'm impressed :) and will only be taking the box off when it goes for a service etc.
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Cheers mate. I usually go down the remap route myself but I am a bit worried about warranty problems. Everyone seems to have good things to say about the box and some members have done thousands of miles with no apparent problems. Although it seems it's now possible to remap through the diagnostic port so maybe a 'bluefin' type device will be available soon.
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Cheers mate. I usually go down the remap route myself but I am a bit worried about warranty problems. Everyone seems to have good things to say about the box and some members have done thousands of miles with no apparent problems. Although it seems it's now possible to remap through the diagnostic port so maybe a 'bluefin' type device will be available soon.
im not scaremongering, but if these ECU's are flashed via the OBD they will cause issues with TD1.
We deal with a remapper in Belgium and he forwarded me details of the latest updates from CMD that will allow OBD remaps, and he and others are 99% certain that remapping via this route will flag up TD1.
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
Lifes too short to leave it standard :evil:
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
My car has been in for a service and a bit of warranty work since i've had the box (obviously took it off for the visits to the dealership), but no mention of having had it on. I've never had any limp modes or warning lights running in old 4+1 or new 3+2, but I do use Millers Ecomax in my fuel and generally run from a "normal mode" engine setting.
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
Lifes too short to leave it standard :evil:
Exactly :) even if we all had a 2.0 300bhp TDI we'd still want more :)
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
I was like that but now that i have the box, i cant imagine without it!
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'Standard' has to be the most boring word in the English language. Although I love the car, after doing 600+ miles with only one 30 minute motorway blast(dpf :wink:), I think the extra power would complete the package. I am sure the need for more power will overcome everything else and I will be giving my testimonial on the virtues of tuning box/remap in the not-so-distant future.
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Thanks Andrew. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may leave my car standard :sick: and I can't remember the last time I did that. :cry:
I was like that but now that i have the box, i cant imagine without it!
Taking the box off after having it is like driving through treacle. You always want more power - i'll probably be in an S3 next time - I wonder how long that stays standard?
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which has already passed the car on the power bench with DTUK
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
we've had this happen before, due to damage to the wiring loom.
Check to make sure the loom hasn't been caught or melted, and if not drop the system back down to us and well run it on our Skoda 2.0 184ps for a couple of days to see if we can emulate the issue.
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
we've had this happen before, due to damage to the wiring loom.
Check to make sure the loom hasn't been caught or melted, and if not drop the system back down to us and well run it on our Skoda 2.0 184ps for a couple of days to see if we can emulate the issue.
Had a look at the cables/loom yesterday and all appears well. It seems to happen when I get back in the car and it has been skelped by the sun. I will re-fit it later today and if it happens again I can post it back for you to look at it. Cheers
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
we've had this happen before, due to damage to the wiring loom.
Check to make sure the loom hasn't been caught or melted, and if not drop the system back down to us and well run it on our Skoda 2.0 184ps for a couple of days to see if we can emulate the issue.
Had a look at the cables/loom yesterday and all appears well. It seems to happen when I get back in the car and it has been skelped by the sun. I will re-fit it later today and if it happens again I can post it back for you to look at it. Cheers
so it only happens when the cars been left in the sun?? maybe worth moving the module or just turning it down one setting.. Not sure what youre set to now??
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
we've had this happen before, due to damage to the wiring loom.
Check to make sure the loom hasn't been caught or melted, and if not drop the system back down to us and well run it on our Skoda 2.0 184ps for a couple of days to see if we can emulate the issue.
Had a look at the cables/loom yesterday and all appears well. It seems to happen when I get back in the car and it has been skelped by the sun. I will re-fit it later today and if it happens again I can post it back for you to look at it. Cheers
so it only happens when the cars been left in the sun?? maybe worth moving the module or just turning it down one setting.. Not sure what youre set to now??
It is set to 4+1, is that the optimum setting? So what setting would you suggest?
Thanks
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It is set to 4+1, is that the optimum setting? So what setting would you suggest?
Thanks
I've had no bother at all with 4+1, maybe the addition of Millers ecomax to the fuel makes all the difference, or maybe 2 GTDs aren't as close together as we'd assume? Perhaps we need a preferred summer and winter setting?
After trying a fair few settings, I found 4+1 to be the best for me.
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This is getting seriously annoying now,orange coil appeared again and engine management kicks in no power at all. Had to take it off for the ride home. Have to refit again for like the 4th time since I got it
we've had this happen before, due to damage to the wiring loom.
Check to make sure the loom hasn't been caught or melted, and if not drop the system back down to us and well run it on our Skoda 2.0 184ps for a couple of days to see if we can emulate the issue.
Had a look at the cables/loom yesterday and all appears well. It seems to happen when I get back in the car and it has been skelped by the sun. I will re-fit it later today and if it happens again I can post it back for you to look at it. Cheers
so it only happens when the cars been left in the sun?? maybe worth moving the module or just turning it down one setting.. Not sure what youre set to now??
It is set to 4+1, is that the optimum setting? So what setting would you suggest?
Thanks
if the issue only occurs when the car has been sitting under the son for a while then it sounds like a heat issue.
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VWVirgin: Might be worth trying another program, maybe 4+0? If it truly is the sun beaming down on your bonnet and affecting the hardware then it will probably do it on any program, or if it's a hardware fault it will probably do it on any program. I'd imagine heat from an operational engine making it's way to the box or loom to surpass the heat beaming down on the bonnet though. Are your issues immediate after leaving the car standing in the sun and then setting off, or do they develop over a journey.
Are you getting any more regens due to this issue? I suppose it's important to determine if the limp mode is coming about due to overfuelling (you'd still be needing a regen on your next journey if this was happening), or a hardware fault causing an interruption in reinterpreted common rail or boost signal (such as a heat damaged loom or loose connection somewhere).
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VWVirgin: Might be worth trying another program, maybe 4+0? If it truly is the sun beaming down on your bonnet and affecting the hardware then it will probably do it on any program, or if it's a hardware fault it will probably do it on any program. I'd imagine heat from an operational engine making it's way to the box or loom to surpass the heat beaming down on the bonnet though. Are your issues immediate after leaving the car standing in the sun and then setting off, or do they develop over a
Are you getting any more regens due to this issue? I suppose it's important to determine if the limp mode is coming about due to journey.
overfuelling (you'd still be needing a regen on your next journey if this was happening), or a hardware fault causing an interruption in reinterpreted common rail or boost signal (such as a heat damaged loom or loose connection somewhere).
I may well try another program but im going to give it one last chance before I do that. Weather is poor at the moment, so going to see if the situation arises in the lashing rain. It does seem to be when the car is in direct sunlight for a few hours, hope in car (which is black) absorbs a shed load of heat so maybe it has something to do with it...who knows. I re-checked all the looms/cables whatever you want to refer to them as and they are 100%.
Yeh, its immediate alright. Literally turn on the ignition and it appears. I have tried locking the car, got back in then somehow it disappears, it seems infrequent. Had my first regen yesterday it what seemed like months!!!!!
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Yeh, its immediate alright. Literally turn on the ignition and it appears. I have tried locking the car, got back in then somehow it disappears, it seems infrequent. Had my first regen yesterday it what seemed like months!!!!!
If it's almost a definite that the light will happen on your car sat in the heat during first start-up, i'd remove the box and loom and see if you can replicate it as standard. If you can't then it has to be the loom or box.
A regen once every 4 weeks is pretty much all I get now. Regardless of DPF loading indications, according to VWs set-up, the car forces a regen every 800 miles. If your regens are as infrequent as that, it seems that 4+1 isn't overfuelling the car. I used to get a noticeable regen for about 40 miles every 250 miles before I had the box.
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this maybe of interest to a few of you
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=270392.0
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Just ordered DTUK box.
Quite excited...
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Let us know how you get on with your new box mate? Although there is nothing but good things said about them on here so I am sure you will love it
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we took our DSG GTD to the dyno earlier this week, the figures below were produced using trevor on map 1 plus 1
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10169405_10152418346055756_6799555701564774060_n.jpg?oh=3719d4e76584c93558b63977cad19ed3&oe=54DD46EB&__gda__=1425263252_a54b0c56c67d50dd780d243d947e7b40)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10425013_10152418346285756_5373496218799020194_n.jpg?oh=2e6f171898a830eedb7df2b7857d5abf&oe=54DA9A03&__gda__=1424152662_12fb95a7a3ef1df5a742652a5904b446)
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My dad passed through our place overnight, on his way to a few weeks work in Aberdeen and i've given him a lend of my DTUK box so he can see if he wants it when I get my R. It took him 2 minutes to make his mind up, and left it on for him to have a few weeks with it.
My car feels like i'm driving through treacle again! I might let him just keep it as an early Christmas present so I appreciate the R more when it arrives and so i'm not slipping around when the cold weather really bites (first sample of the cold weather today: 7C at the coast where I live and 2.5C 12 miles further inland where I work) on my Bridgestones.
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I would really like one of these boxes but am still a little worried, has anyone been running one of these boxes on a DSG GTD, any problems?
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I would really like one of these boxes but am still a little worried, has anyone been running one of these boxes on a DSG GTD, any problems?
My dad has DSG and he’s running my box right now – I’ll let you know how he gets on with it. The biggest change I’ve seen on my car without the box now is the much slower initial pick-up on the power at stock, it’s more noticeable than being 60ps down overall.
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I would really like one of these boxes but am still a little worried, has anyone been running one of these boxes on a DSG GTD, any problems?
My dad has DSG and he’s running my box right now – I’ll let you know how he gets on with it. The biggest change I’ve seen on my car without the box now is the much slower initial pick-up on the power at stock, it’s more noticeable than being 60ps down overall.
Would be very interested in his opinion of how it drives now, especially MPG, kickdown and gear selection from the DSG.
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Didn't Andrew at dtuk have a dsg at the minute?
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Well my dad has been running my DTUK box for a week and done about 650 miles in it between stopping at mine on his way up to Aberdeen for a weeks work and back. He’s had 2 warnings come up but one was a traction issue (he flung it round a bend and the ESP stepped in hard) and the other was a false ACC activation – not anything to do with any torque limiters that the DSG may or may not have. He drove the car quite hard (harder than I would drive mine) and was very impressed overall. He begrudgingly offered it back until I get my R, but I told him to keep hold of it if he wanted to (I will appreciate the R more being 116ps down rather than 57ps down) and he didn’t even say “are you sure?”. :grin:
Doesn’t seem anything wrong with how the box performs with a DSG GTD.
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Many thanks, does sound OK. Maybe I'll wait until winters passed
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Similar to Monkeyhanger, I get my R in March and il be taking this off in Jan I'd suspect to get used to the stock power of the gtd to see now much of difference there really is. I know it's going to be huge, but with the DTUK box on at 240 to stock 300 with the r and not having test driven an r, I don't want to get in the r and be like....is this it. So il be selling it off dirt cheap. Won't even be a year old in jan, il punt it to anyone with a reasonable offer
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Monkeyhanger / virginVWman did you have any problems with your insurers when you fitted the box, did your premiums change much?
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About +£40 for me and 1/2 of that was admin charge for the policy change. Some insurers won't touch a mod, best enquire after having a word with Andrew at DTUK.
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Send me a message virginVW when you decide to sell it mate and depending how much Christmas has wiped me out I'll take it.
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No worries at all, we have a deal!
Not looking on making serious cash for it or top end price, far from as it would be going in the skip otherwise so any reasonable offer is fine with me. Itl be Jan more than likely if that's okay?
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Finally going to order mine on the 15th dec when I get my bonus. Thanks to everyone on here for your reviews as I have never had a tuning box before and was always a remap guy myself so didn't know much about them. Andrews recent dyno figures helped persuade me too :laugh:
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No worries at all, we have a deal!
Not looking on making serious cash for it or top end price, far from as it would be going in the skip otherwise so any reasonable offer is fine with me. Itl be Jan more than likely if that's okay?
Spot on mate.
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Turn up for the books, forgot had to re-insure car, now with Churchill as opposed to Admiral so didn't see point insuring myself with the box, so itl be off as off this Sunday :cry: let me know if its too early for you and I can always just hold on to it for a while
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Following a chat with Andrew earlier this week (cheers Andrew), I finally got round to ordering and fitting a Trevor to my GTD.
Installation was easy enough, it was spitting rain but didn't take me too long to complete the install following the install guide to the T and routing my cables as per the recommendation. Removing the common rail sensor was probably the hardest part, but only due to not fully understanding what part needed squeezing for release (checking Trevor's cable helped with this.)
I've been for a few drives now over the last few days and ... :laugh:
My initial impressions (from the night of fitting the box) were of slight disappointment, but this was mainly due to the roads being absolutely water logged but also the increased speed not giving quite the sensation I was expecting.
I had built quite a mental image of how the extra power would feel from reading everyones accounts, but the delivery is so smooth and refined it really takes you off guard.
My second day of driving (on dry roads, as opposed to water logged from my first evening!) it was clear just how fast the car is now - I was adjusting to the feel of the extra torque, but even more so just seeing how quickly a car was disappearing behind you when you gave it some beans.
I've briefly tried 1+1, 2+1 and they do seem to have more power low down, but as per MonkeyHanger's recommendations I am finding 3+1 great. It doesn't do too much to the car at low revs, but still gives you everything from 1800/2000, with what feels like a nice extra surge around 2400. I'm going to keep it on 3+1 for a week or 2 before trying 2+1. But from my understanding of the maps so far, I think 3+1 will give the best MPG overall.
1st and 2nd gear are terrific. My car will tramp in 1st (although only in the first half of the gear), but I haven't had any tramping at all in 2nd - both from standing starts and flooring it from 10/15mph - I get a few flashes of the ESC but no tramping (and the roads were slightly damp today when I was trying this). I think this really does show how tyres can contribute to this issue (as this is 240bhp-ish now!), and uh-oh, more fuel for the Bridgestone bonfire :)
I also haven't had any ESC lights in 3rd gear or above, so very happy with how the Vredesteins are doing so far.
The car feels properly rapid from 0-50, and I'm sure it's capable of 6.5 to 60 - I'll try and test this one day.
Higher gears are also amazing, I know I am repeating others, but the pull in 3rd - 6th is now much improved, and the power stays there to 4000 should you wish to hold a gear rather than change (and 3rd in 4000 should be about as fast as you need in most situations, and 4th in 4000, well... it's dangerously easy to get there!)
The best thing about all of this, is it is still an incredibly refined and natural progression of power. I've just done a potter-about errand in the car, using none of the extra power, and you wouldn't know it was modified (save for perhaps 1st and 2nd feeling smoother.) I know the car will still be great at sitting in cruise at 70 or 75 too (which I will aim to do to keep my MPG up with my increased commute.)
I don't intend on running the car any higher than +1 as it is plenty for me, and when you do come across someone with issues on one of the VAG forums it's normally related to +2 or +3 (and I double checked with MH his recomemndation was 3+1).
I'm actually thinking of adding the pedal box next month, as it seems the logical next step to make the power even more accessible and reduce lag (the pedal lag seems more noticeable to me now the pedal's potential is increased!)
So, yep - another resounding thumbs up!
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Great feedback and glad you're happy with Trevor :)
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Cheers Andrew, I was going to send you a message at some point - great piece of kit. Pedal box next... :)
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i just ordered mine 5 mins ago . Been wanting one for a while but I've had a wedding and a holiday to pay for. Can't wait for it to arrive, more excited about the box than the bloody wedding that's for sure. :tongue:
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I'm actually thinking of adding the pedal box next month, as it seems the logical next step to make the power even more accessible and reduce lag (the pedal lag seems more noticeable to me now the pedal's potential is increased!)
So, yep - another resounding thumbs up!
The pedal box is great.
Definitely recommended, it brings the car alive without having to be brutal with the accelerator. You can tickle the car along with barely a millimetre of movement in traffic or just give it a gentle shove to make full use of the torque when you need a bit of instant speed.
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Apologies for sounding stupid, but how does the pedal box actually work? From what I have read, it increases the gas pedal response, right? How?
EDIT: forget that, I have just read up on it on the DTUK website...I should learn to read before posting :rolleyes:
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Actually, I have a question about the pedal box... the DTUK site says:
The Pedal Box sits between the sensor and the control module, intercepting that signal and altering it in order to shorten and improve the response time. This works in the same manner as many manufacturer fitted ‘Sport’ buttons, reducing the amount of pedal travel required to achieve ‘Throttle Wide Open’, allowing you to access the engines full potential.
So, if my sport mode makes a similar adjustment (and of course it will, thats exactly what it does), is it not possible to simply reconfigure the parameters for eco/normal/sport using VCDS?
I can understand why in something without the trickery of a Mk7 would need this, but surely its a only a software parameter now?
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VCDS won't be able to touch the throttle maps within the ECU. Only a remap could do that :wink:
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Out of interest what would happen if you got a remap and used a DTYK box? Would it not work properly?
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I received my box today and set aside 30 mins after work to fit it. I needn't have bothered as after about 5 mins to read the instructions and a further 5 to fit, it was job done.
Well guys, you weren't wrong. It's great. transformed good car into a great car. I tried a few settings but 3+2 is my favourite. The power delivery is as smooth as without the box but the torque is amazing. I've never had a tuning box before and usually go down the remap route But the fact this can be so easily removed sold it to me. well that and the fact so many of you on here rate them so highly.
I will definetly recommend one to anyone who asks me about it. Great work Andrew. Love it :smiley:
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VCDS won't be able to touch the throttle maps within the ECU. Only a remap could do that :wink:
That's not right, dtuk say a pedal box is like the sport button and both are modifying the amount of oomph that's transmitted electronically on a fky by wire throttle.
When you press your standard mk7 mode button and choose sport, you don't get a ecu remap, you just get a different input range on the pedal.
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Out of interest what would happen if you got a remap and used a DTYK box? Would it not work properly?
Never tried to combine both and I certainly wouldn't recommend it!!
Most likely the car will put you in limp mode :undecided:
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VCDS won't be able to touch the throttle maps within the ECU. Only a remap could do that :wink:
That's not right, dtuk say a pedal box is like the sport button and both are modifying the amount of oomph that's transmitted electronically on a fky by wire throttle.
When you press your standard mk7 mode button and choose sport, you don't get a ecu remap, you just get a different input range on the pedal.
What controls that then??? :huh:
If it was doable via VCDS why bother with a pedal box at all??
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Well, there are two ways of changing things that are digitally controlled:
1) Change the software/configuration of one of more components to use/send different values - could be via flashing something or just setting a register value if the thing has an interface you can mess with.
2) intercept the signal between components and mess with it
The usual engine mapping for more power is what we normally associate with this, which is achieved by a flashed computer for #1 and a box for #2.
I'm just wondering if there is a half way house where a setting can be changed rather than a whole software rewrite.
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All the sport button does is switch to an alternate throttle map within the ECU
VCDS can acess some things but I've never seen anything to do with throttle mapping. You can monitor the pedal position but thats about it
You could play about with the throttle maps but by the time you get it right you just as well map it and get the best of both worlds
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VCDS won't be able to touch the throttle maps within the ECU. Only a remap could do that :wink:
That's not right, dtuk say a pedal box is like the sport button and both are modifying the amount of oomph that's transmitted electronically on a fky by wire throttle.
When you press your standard mk7 mode button and choose sport, you don't get a ecu remap, you just get a different input range on the pedal.
If the VW Sport throttle response made as big a change to the accelerator response as the steering Sport setting did then there would be no need for a PedalBox.
Alas the VW accelerator response is pants in all its settings and the PedalBox makes a huge difference to the drivability of the car.
It doesn't alter the ECU settings in any way, merely amplifying the throttle pedal position signal. Unfortunately as Rhyso says (and he's a man who would know if any of us would) there is no way to alter this via VCDS than anyone has found yet.
There's always someone who will come along and say "just press the pedal harder" but that misses the point entirely.
Try one, I doubt you'll ever go back.
I've had one of these devices on my mk5, two mk6's and now one on my mk7 and can say totally honestly that I think the car feels like a limp wet lettuce to drive when its disconnected. It was the first thing I added to the car.
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So would just adding a pedal box to a non-mapped/boxed GTD make a lot of difference? I don't often hit the "sport" mode, but I did tonight just to have a think about this thread and it does make quite a bit of difference IMHO (not just steering or DCC either but definitely throttle).
Also, with the pedal box does the eco/normal/sport throttle changes still change? I assume it would because its just screwing with the pedal signal rather than being further integrated with the various systems.
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I run one on an otherwise standard GTI and love it.
It means (for a GTI at least) you can leave the settings on normal so the soundaktor doesn't sound too crap and still have a responsive throttle pedal (as responsive as you want it as it has heaps of adjustments) so the car feels a lot more light footed and eager.
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Sounds interesting mate, are they easy to fit?
I guess something like that isn't insurance notifiable?
PS I wish in the mode settings you could have a slider for how much soundaktor to have or even a on/off setting. Its fun sometimes (like tonight, I was enjoying the fake snarl from my oil burner lol) but being able to select it would be nicer.
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I'm not 100% on the insurance side as at the end of the days it is a modification.
When I phoned my insurer the guy on the other end was baffled as to what it was so said he'd put a note on the system to the effect of it being "like an engine chip but with zero horsepower gain, so no charge to you"
It's a ten minute job to fit the PedalBox.
Unscrew a couple screws under the dash, unplug, plug in, route cable behind carpet and under dash to let the controller live in the storage box by your knee. Screw screws back and you're done.
The soundaktor can be adjusted via VCDS but obviously that's not something you can easily do on the fly!
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I really don't get why VW don't allow you to alter the soundaktor via the menu. Better still would have been a physical variable switch like the one that Lexus have on the IS300 H. You could choose all or nothing in any of the modes selected. I like all the responsiveness (realatively speaking compared to naturally aspirated) of the sport mode but none of the noise. I ended up unplugging mine in the end, much better in my opinion.
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You can adjust the soundaktuator volume using VCDS.
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For different modes?
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No not for different modes but it's only noisy in sport mode.
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No not for different modes but it's only noisy in sport mode.
Is that "its only ON in sport mode"?
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No not for different modes but it's only noisy in sport mode.
Is that "its only ON in sport mode"?
You sort of reduce the volume as a whole so you will only really hear it at all in Sport mode. You can reduce the volume in increments.
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Well guys, you weren't wrong. It's great. transformed good car into a great car. I tried a few settings but 3+2 is my favourite. The power delivery is as smooth as without the box but the torque is amazing. I've never had a tuning box before and usually go down the remap route But the fact this can be so easily removed sold it to me. well that and the fact so many of you on here rate them so highly.
Awesome stuff Bluefloyd, great isn't it! I haven't delved as high as +2 as +1 feels great to me and is likely to be lower risk for issues long term. I'm not sure what the Bhp difference is on the two, anyone?
Thanks for the pedal box feedback Exonian, I think it was some of your previous comments (here or elsewhere) that helped make my mind up. A lot of the TDI users report much decreased 'lag', so I'm not sure how that works or if it's just the feel the increased sensitivity gives you, but looking forward to it.
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I have fitted a CRD-T to my GTD.
Absolutely transforms it. As its an older box with the 'jumper' adjusters I've left it on Prog 4+1.
From the supplied graphs it seems the most linear in terms of fuelling/boost adjustments & delivery seems to match OEM (just a lot more of it) so that's where it's staying. Don't want to risk limp modes/clutch issues
As others have reported, the gains are really very noticeable in the higher gears.
Feedback for DTUK::
It would be nice to be able to correlate the different programs in a visual format. Spend a day or two on a dyno & try to overlay the different programs as well as running the car standard....
This is what customers want to see.
The 'every driver has a different preference therefore try them all' thing is a bit lame IMO. (No offence intended!)
The chat function on the DTUK site was also a bit hit & miss for me.
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I have fitted a CRD-T to my GTD.
Absolutely transforms it. As its an older box with the 'jumper' adjusters I've left it on Prog 4+1.
From the supplied graphs it seems the most linear in terms of fuelling/boost adjustments & delivery seems to match OEM (just a lot more of it) so that's where it's staying. Don't want to risk limp modes/clutch issues
As others have reported, the gains are really very noticeable in the higher gears.
Feedback for DTUK::
It would be nice to be able to correlate the different programs in a visual format. Spend a day or two on a dyno & try to overlay the different programs as well as running the car standard....
This is what customers want to see.
The 'every driver has a different preference therefore try them all' thing is a bit lame IMO. (No offence intended!)
The chat function on the DTUK site was also a bit hit & miss for me.
I've seen the people mention the graph overlays before and think it would be a good idea myself.
I guess from DTUK's perspective is that they market so many different boxes for different cars that it would be nigh on impossible to show graphs overlaid for every model but there are ways around this such as using popular selling models.
As an example the 2.0 184 TDI is sold in plenty of different guises across the VAG group and being possibly the choice of most people that want a sporty VAG Diesel car it would definitely be one they could highlight.
DTE systems must surely rolling road the car in all its programs before releasing it for sale so even a 'rough estimate' overlay or three would be helpful from the manufacturers. Then if DTUK do their own tweaks on from the DTE supplied files they can just say "add 5-10bhp at xxx rpm or 10-15lb ft at xxx rpm on map xxx" from the DTE graphs.
There will always be forum moaners that aren't satisfied with this but probably the worst moaners don't actually spend their money on the boxes anyway.
I've seen an overlay of the pedal box settings so there's no reason DTE can't do it for the tuning boxes too assuming they don't already(?).
To be honest it's a few years since I bought my box for my GTI so I've not looked for graphs since. If I get a GTD at some point in the future then I'd be back in the market...
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when we had the older CRD09 modules, we had the facility to take a screenshot of the 4 files. When the modules were updated to the CRD14 (trevor) we lost this facility..
Well its still there, but it would mean taking 3 screenshots and we found that a lot of people didnt understand what they meant.
We have recently launched the CRD3+ and i took 2 of the 3 files to the dyno ( one of them was developed afterwards) and 2 of the three both produced 234/236hp and 377lbft. The dyno curves are virtually identical, but both feel completely different on the road,
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Took the plunge last week and ordered a DTUK CRD3+ box... Just got it fitted tonight.
Only done a few miles to test it out.
Anyone who has one of these fitted to MkVII GTD with DSG box have any recommendations for what settings to run? :rolleyes:
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customer running map 2 plus 2 on a CRDT+
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c109/ABYSS69/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6475_zpsoqreiatm.jpg)