F17BAD G3 GTI. S3 TURBO

[Dan_GTi8v]

Check out tshirt2k build thread on cgti to see how he moved his rad back so he could fit the cooler without modding the bumper, wish I'd seen it before I butchered mine up 

Pics in my thread on how I did it as well but they probably better in his thread

[tshirt2k]

iv got a front mount IC, which we are gonna fab up the piping, will use Black hoses on here where we need to. i want the cooler to fit a certain way, basically no modding of the bumper fins if possible.

using a twin rad fan off my valver that had aircon

If you want no cutting of the fins, you will need to mod the panel like dan_GTI8v.

Edit: Beat me to it

[F17BAD]

i have no air con so im hoping that gives me a little more room to play with

[golf-sib]

Sounds good, I found Toyosports do good pipe kits for £80 and I still have pipes left. It comes with good clamps and silicone bits to join.

You got a beading tool or will you make the pipes then get them beaded. If its the second then most machine shops use a hydraulic beader, careful with these as if you are using alluminium pipe the can easily crack the pipes quite easily.

Have some hairspray handy, it helps the pipes slide in when wet, as it drys it makes the surface rough between the pipe and silicone reducing the chance off it popping off. A lot of garages do this except hairspray will not damage the engine in anyway.

Also you going 2" or 2.5" in piping.

[F17BAD]

iv seen those kits and was looking for them the other day in their shop ?

which IC have you got ?


not sure what size mi IC is, ill have to check that..

[Dan_GTi8v]

I removed the aircon from mine, my IC is 65mm thick which is the thickness I see on most universal coolers, I had to move the rad back around 10-15mm to get the cooler behind the slam panel so it cleared the bumper and thats with the fins cut out

Think you will have a hard job making it all fit without either cutting the bumper or moving the rad back 

[F17BAD]

ill do it, seen others with the fins, the fins have to stay so fingers cossed

[golf-sib]

I know ko4 has 51/52mn inlet (2"). I just bought a 2" pipe kit off them (as ko3 inlets are more less the same). Search "it has begun" in mk4 section to see my build.

Also you can buy a beading tool for pipes upto 2.5" for £90 that you can use in a vice. which I was recommended on the locost forums and tbh very chuffed with.

As for the IC, toyosports do a 1.8T intercooler for the A4. This FMIC is only 51mm thick with 51mm inlets, which is what I used and ordered seperately. Afterwards I wrapped all my pipes up to reduce heatsoak effects. If you want to reduce trim put the Rad back with some spacers. Other people have put the IC very close to the to the Rad (a few mm. ) and stick some foam or other heat resistive material so the IC and Rad don't touch.

Also measure the TB to see what size reducer you would need, mine was 50>60mm on AGU, you may get away with reusing some off the standard silicone that's already there by cutting it up

[tshirt2k]

For your engine you will need 2.25" or 57mm pipe. That will support ~ 300-320hp. Any smaller can cause a restriction. Any larger can slow airspeed(spool time) And have as few bends as poss. Depends what pipe you get regarding beads. Because of the need to weld with a mig, I chose stainless but the need for beads were apparent recently due to leaks. So I made my own with rings of tube.



As mentioned, unless your ic is very thin. (It shouldnt be small for the amount of power you hope to run) You will need to move rad back to keep fins untouched. Regardless of having AC or not. The drivers side of the rad is angled forward so reduces gap between rad and crossmember.

[F17BAD]

great info guys

need to sort the tubing out, tshirt what do u actually recommend ?? my IC is the same as Dans