GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: JP2021 on 11 April 2021, 14:28
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I think this is a common dilemma, so apologies for repeating what may have already been discussed, but...... does the performance pack make a noticeable difference to every day driving? I have the chance to buy a Mk7 GTi at a great price but without the performance pack. I don't plan to take the car to a track, but do intend to have a little fun driving on the twisty B roads around where I live, whilst using it for the majority of the time on motorways. Should I wait until performance pack version is available on Autotrader or take the deal that's been offered on the standard configuration? Any help would be very much appreciated!!!
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Wait for the right car
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I too am on the hunt for a GTi/Clubsport.
If i were to opt for a GTI it would definitely have to have the PP, what with the slightly more powerful engine and the bigger brakes, but for above all else the tricky diff.
I think a PP one is more desirable and therefore would be easier to sell when the time comes.
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I bought a car recently. It’s a daily for me and I didn’t want an R as they are so often targeted for theft. Whilst I’d have preferred a PP, more important to me was spec, mileage and condition. The upgraded audio and art velour trim were well worth a compromise for me. As was a car with sub 10miles as opposed to something at 20k miles plus. No regrets either.
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Fun is good way to describe the VAQ diff, the way it hooks up and drags you out of corners, or just helps you nail it in a straight line when it's greasy.
You certainly don't need it, it's a fantastic car already, but I do like it.
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The diff makes quite a bit of difference when you have a little fun at UK road legal speeds - you don't need to be trying to beat the lap record at Brands Hatch to feel it.
I'd look for a PP.
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I think this is a common dilemma, so apologies for repeating what may have already been discussed, but...... does the performance pack make a noticeable difference to every day driving? I have the chance to buy a Mk7 GTi at a great price but without the performance pack. I don't plan to take the car to a track, but do intend to have a little fun driving on the twisty B roads around where I live, whilst using it for the majority of the time on motorways. Should I wait until performance pack version is available on Autotrader or take the deal that's been offered on the standard configuration? Any help would be very much appreciated!!!
Having owned and put considerable miles on both variants in 7.5 form, I would definitely seek out a PP model. Its better in everyway imo, especially if your going DSG.
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As always it is a matter of personal choice and what is out in the market with any options you want.
I have a non pp 7.5 GTI manual and it serves well as day to day and a bit of a fun when you want. I know many on this forum love the DSG gearbox, but it does not work for me. Yes, the larger brakes and diff add to the fun factor but unless you are on the open road you do not get the benefit
As always take the time to find the best vehicle with the history and options. A pp will cost more, but you may well recoup that at sale time.
Whatever you choose you will not be disappointed in my opinion
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Also, (and I stand to be corrected), due to WLTP, I understand the MK7.5 PP's dropped the dual injection rails that it had before (to prevent the built of of carbon in the intake valves), and gained a Particulate filter - both of which the non PP MK7.5 never had. Sure I'm biased as mine is a 2018 non PP, and yes, the bigger brakes with the logos do look very nice, but for 80-90% of standard driving on UK roads, I bet you can't really tell much one from the other ? Again, I don't know this for fact, but I've heard stories of the particulate filter and revised mapping robbing a few PS, so the difference between the two models is more likely in the 10-12 ps area rather than the full 15ps ?
If you can find a good PP model in the colour, mileage and options you want then great, but if that "perfect" example happens to be a non PP model, I for one would never let that put me off it. YMMV.
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When I was looking to buy I didn't even consider a none PP. Also by going for a none PP version you'd be limiting your market when you come to sell it on, for me it's a no brainer.
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How about this beast I found today! 490!! 😳😳😳😳
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202103250559033?atmobcid=soc4
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How about this beast I found today! 490!! 😳😳😳😳
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202103250559033?atmobcid=soc4
twenty inch wheels.... impressive.
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How about this beast I found today! 490!! 😳😳😳😳
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202103250559033?atmobcid=soc4
twenty inch wheels.... impressive.
Look pretty nice eh!
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Looked at the other cars they have for sales at Performance 28 😳😳😳 there is a crazy RS6 with the biggest wheels but this on Autotrader!! https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202102239389495?atmobcid=soc4
Audi https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202104091167180
Sorry for deviating lol but wow lol
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100% find a PP, the VAQ is definitely noticeable going around large roundabouts, why would not want something that improves traction.
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Buy the best car your budget allows, and make sure you’re clear on the features you care most about and will get most value from. If that’s PP don’t budge, if it’s something else and you need to sacrifice PP to get it (while staying in budget) don’t for a second think you’re making a bad decision. The non-PP GTi is a superb car and in 95% of the driving you can do on UK roads you won’t notice the difference.
PP definitely adds advantages, and if you can exploit the enhanced traction in a safe way on the road, which personally I would struggle with while driving with some degree of common sense, it’s well worth having.
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Look pretty nice eh!
But will have a terrible choppy ride, been there done that, never again.
OP, think about how disappointed you will be if you don't get a PP and you are sitting at the lights and PP pulls up next to you. Oh and you don't want up PP drivers to look down on you. :grin:
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does the performance pack make a noticeable difference to every day driving?
No, not in my view- because I only rarely feel the diff working in everyday driving.
I think these questions should always be considered with regards to " how will I use the car" rather than " how good is the option".
Is 400bhp good? Yes. Will I use it? No!
I think you will still have a very enjoyable car if you didn't have the PP, but whether you will miss it for the " golden moments" is another question.
I suppose once you ask the question you probably do want it.
I wouldn't worry about residuals- you will be buying cheaper and selling cheaper- and there will always be high demand for a Golf GTI.
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This thread roughly coincides with the 8th year anniversary since my order went in for the just released mk7 GTI PP via evo1986
Coming from a long background of modified GTI’s I thought the £850 PP was a no brainer. It seemed like the perfect base car to add a stage 1 remap to, almost as if that was VW’s intention (VW are tuned in to the whole modding thing, just see their massive presence and exclusives released at the Wörthersee Treffen annually). The car seemed aimed at people just like me.
About six months after I took delivery I went out in my lightly modded mk7 PP for a bit of a back to back B road action with a friend who had temporary use of a mk7 GTI vin ordinaire.
There wasn’t a massive difference between the two cars to be honest.
The two things I will say is that the uprated PP brakes are very worthwhile. The 312mm rotors have been in use since god knows when (mk4 days I think they started coming in) and were marginal at fast road speed at times. The 340’s are much better but it’s easy to remedy the 312’s using aftermarket bits.
As for the diff, well it’s very subtle but works very well even on a stage 1 car. However whether it will be of much benefit in general use depends on the driver.
GTI drivers come in all shapes and sizes, I’ve been on forums since forever so seen it all, from moaners who buy a GTI expecting it to ride like a limousine to Billy Big Balls types who drive like absolute lunatics, and everything in between.
I’ve been blitzed in my former Golf R when taking it steady by company car GTD drivers enough times to know the chassis is plenty good enough without diffs, 350bhp and AWD if the driver is bold enough.
The only way anyone can really know whether the diff and brakes will be worthwhile to them is by having a think about how hard they actually drive in reality.
Personally, if it was a used car and the price and condition were really good I’d definitely not thumb my nose at a non PP.
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As a few have said 99% of the time you won't notice any difference between the two cars, that 1% of the time is when you want to play on some twisty roads.
Personally I find my old mk5 Edition 30 much more fun than my 2019 Performance Pack, which I actually attribute down the the brakes and lack of diff (they're the same 312mm), you can feel like your much more on the edge even when you're probably going 10-15mph slower.
If the GTI you're looking at has a good spec (Leather, Sunroof, DCC) I'd go for it without a doubt, you'll use those features more than 1% of the time. :smiley: but either way you won't be disappointed by either.
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Funny how we're all different. Had mine since new and there's no way I wanted the PP. Brakes were a bit to "ooo, look at me" for my taste, as I luuurve the subtle look of the GTI. The ability of the standard car far exceeds my own and so I'd never use anything more.
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Both cars you couldn’t fault at end of the day it all comes down to the money buy what you can comfortably afford and run on a daily basis
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All your inputs are much appreciated and I'm collecting a 2013 Mk7 Golf GTi with PP and leather seats in Tornado Red this Tuesday, can't wait! It has 50k on the clock and the test drive didn't flag up any nasties and apart from a few stone chips on the bonnet (that I'm going to do my best to touch-up, any advice?) and a few knocks on the 19" alloys (have a mobile diamond cut alloy repair company with lathe booked in, good idea?), it appears to be in great condition. With it having 50k on the clock and 7 years old, are there any maintenance points I should bear in mind, such as water pump, timing chain tensioner and any other major mechanicals that may need doing soon? Also, what costs am I looking at for supply/fit of discs/pads, water pump, timing chain tensioner, clutch and other mechanicals that may need changing? Thanks again for all the info, invaluable!
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Well done, exciting times waiting for a new car.
Is it manual or DSG? If DSG make sure it has had the oil changed already and get that booked in if not.
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As well as checking the DSG service (which is part of the service schedule), also check that the VAQ diff has been serviced (because its not on the service schedule!) and that the water pump has been done some time recently.
Water pump is about 700+VAT to replace, VAQ service is about 200+VAT.
Does it have DCC?
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Here are VW's prices for work on cars over 3 years old;-
https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners-and-drivers/servicing/pricing-for-cars-over-3
You may be able to do better at an independent specialist, but it gives you an idea.
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Out of interest has anybody here actually had their VAQ serviced at at VW dealer?
From what I understand it's at 3yr/30K (which ever is sooner), how do the dealers react when you've asked for it to be done when it's not officially on the service schedule in the UK?
My next service will be a year three one so I should have it done then, my dealer seems quite strict and it's quite difficult getting past the 'front desk' staff especially for something not on the VW UK schedule (for my last one when I ask what would be done I was told that "my car would tell the techs everything that needed to be done").
As it is I will have to keep tabs on my usage as the DSG at 40K is mileage only so won't fall into a yearly service visit and it seems the car won't flash up saying it needs doing.
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I know others before have been told by dealers that the vaq is a sealed unit and doesn't need servicing... But that's not true. It needs a fluid change.
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I know others before have been told by dealers that the vaq is a sealed unit and doesn't need servicing... But that's not true. It needs a fluid change.
it also shouldn't be costing 200 + vat either.
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There must be PP cars old enough on here to have had the VAQ done.... I'm getting the impression that nobody has actually had it done at a VW dealer.
As I mentioned all of the techs at my local dealer are 'chained up' around the back and aren't let loose at front of house so I have to contend with the very nice young ladies on the service desk.
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Actually, looking back, in 2016 it was £106+vat
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Very excited and can't wait to give it a good drive around my local B roads. The car's a manual. The VW price list is good to see but I notice most of the prices exclude either petrol models and GTi's? Has anyone ever had any experiences of failed water pump or a failed VAQ? As I'm based near Gatwick, has anyone used a VW garage, either main dealer or independent, that's good value and reliable?
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Actually, looking back, in 2016 it was £106+vat
it's no different to a haldex service apparently so my dealer was going to charge me the same price. Only snag was my car hadn't done 30k miles at the service time so the service manager said no point in going it, book in when you've got 30k.
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So did they say it was a 30k interval only rather than 3yr or 30k?
I know from some of the videos I've seen the VAQ pump/filter is not in the easiest place to do the fluid change compared to the 4WD Haldex.
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Very excited and can't wait to give it a good drive around my local B roads. The car's a manual. The VW price list is good to see but I notice most of the prices exclude either petrol models and GTi's? Has anyone ever had any experiences of failed water pump or a failed VAQ? As I'm based near Gatwick, has anyone used a VW garage, either main dealer or independent, that's good value and reliable?
VAQ fails I've never seen, water pumps.... ohhhhh yes.
Failed water pump is probably the most common mechanical failure on a Mk7 by a long old way.
My 2014 GTD didn't fail in the 3 years/67k I had it, but I had 2 colleagues with identical cars who had fails at about 18 months and 20k.
Its definitely a thing.
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The whole water pump issue is the one thing that I was worried about as I intend to keep my 2019 car until I'm forced to go EV.
I took out the extended VW warrantee to take me to 5 years with this in mind, if it goes before 2024 then I really hope it's covered.
Was the part ever improved so it doesn't effect the Mk7.5 after a build year?
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After water pumps, the next most common fail is the bloody heater matrix.
I think that crapped out on my 2017 Mk7.5 at the end. I certainly wasn't getting any cold air at all in the last few weeks.
That's a 1500 quid repair....
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So did they say it was a 30k interval only rather than 3yr or 30k?
I know from some of the videos I've seen the VAQ pump/filter is not in the easiest place to do the fluid change compared to the 4WD Haldex.
30k, didn't matter on years. It could just have been my dealer not wanting to do it but he said when the car was plugged in it didn't flag up as needing doing.
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After water pumps, the next most common fail is the bloody heater matrix.
I think that crapped out on my 2017 Mk7.5 at the end. I certainly wasn't getting any cold air at all in the last few weeks.
That's a 1500 quid repair....
Was that due to the silica bag splitting?
Plan to remove the one in my bottle in the next week.
I managed to catch the waterpump on mine as if had a pinhead leak on it, but it then refused to utilise the ACC settings as it is one of the monitoring points within the ECU, if it detects differences in the readings it is expecting to see to enable engine control then it won't allow it to be selected, still cost me £650 but better than it going bang I guess.
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I don't really know what caused it, the car was going so wasn't about to spend money on it :laugh:
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Assuming all is working fine on the car and no visible leaks, should I change the water pump and anything else? Speaking to a mechanic at a local VW garage (cheeky, put just popped into the parts department to ask), he confirmed the MK7 PP has a timing chain and also mentioned if the water pump isn't leaking, leave it as it isn't on the maintenance schedule? Now you have me thinking about the heater matrix, didn't check that on the test drive, how would I know if it's shot? Also, any idea of cost to replace a clutch and front disc and pads, just looking at general maintenance costs? I did notice whilst in the dealership there's a deal on pre-paid maintenance plans, £440.00 for 2 years, one being a minor and the other a major service, sound like a good deal?
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Heater matrix is pretty obvious really.
I would recommend checking the expansion tank for "Mit Silikat" writing on it. If it has that then make sure your silica bag is still in one piece, and consider either removing it, or replacing the expansion tank with one without the silica bag. It's these splitting that screw the matrix etc up.
Didn't see what year your car was but the 340mm discs run around £90 per disc (After discounts), pads are about £50, then labour on top.
Clutch was around £600 last time I looked (long time ago).
I don't put much stock in service plans personally as they do next to nothing that a competent person can't do on their drive and at a lower cost. Good for a stamp in the book, not much else.
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I bought my 14' PP last year and had the VAQ serviced at VW when it went in for a major service.
There was no record of it ever being done and with the car at 77k, I thought I should.
I asked them to do it specifically, I don't know if they would of otherwise. But no one mentioned anything or questioned it when I asked.
I've got the bill somewhere if you want me to check how much it was.
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Many thanks for the idea of costs re maintenance, and I'll certainly check that the vents in the car get nice and toasty before final payment!
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Not just hot, check it goes cold too!
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Is it an easy job to take out the 'silica bag', or is it a job for a garage?
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From what i have read getting the bag out is not too bad, the danger is rupturing the bag whilst doing so.
People either clamp the hoses off to prevent the contents of the bag entering the cooling system, and if the bag splits just flush the header tank out with plenty of water.
Or clamp the pipes off and remove the header tank altogether and fish the bag out in the kitchen sink, refit and top up the coolant level.
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I'd definitely do the latter just to be safe. If you have a syphon tube then I'd drain the tank first before removing, It also means you can be a bit more free in the access you have.
I've read that the G13 coolant isn't as strong as it once was, so when you top up I'd add a neater ratio to the tank to ensure the corrosive protection is up to scratch.
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@JP2021; also bear in mind that the silicate bag is meant to prolong the protective properties of the coolant so it lasts ‘for life’ and never needs changing (that’s according to VW). By removing that bag, it would be necessary to renew the coolant periodically (every 3-4 years?) to ensure it provides the appropriate level of protection.
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by "protection" do you mean anti-freeze?
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by "protection" do you mean anti-freeze?
Should have said corrosion protection, as AFAIK that’s the main purpose of the silicate bag being there - to top up the silicates in the coolant so the aluminium components in the cooling system are protected from corrosion. There are silicates in G13 coolant, but they are used up over time, hence why if the bag is removed, it’s likely the coolant will need to be renewed periodically to ensure adequate silicate content is maintained.
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Doesn't anti-freeze also contain anti-corrosion elements?
I'm totally not an expert, but years ago there was a thing that tested the level of anti-freeze using a pippet with a floaty ball in it.
Would this do the job?
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Doesn't anti-freeze also contain anti-corrosion elements?
I'm totally not an expert, but years ago there was a thing that tested the level of anti-freeze using a pippet with a floaty ball in it.
Would this do the job?
I believe it does, and I’m not an expert either - far from it!
I also had one of those anti freeze testers back in the late 1970’s. Coolant technology has no doubt moved on significantly since the 1970’s and whether those pipette type testers could be used to test for silicate content, I have no idea, but I’d hazard a guess you need something more sophisticated these days to test that coolant in a car’s cooling system is still fit for purpose.
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It all seems a bit 'amateur' having a 'silica bag' placed in a water tank on a premium car - is this usual practice or was it a moment in time and things have moved on? What do you think the real life failure rate is?
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I don't really know why they did it tbh.
If you consider the requirements for servicing to maintain your warranty, what could they be saving themselves from?
The failure of the bag seems to happen post-warranty period, so its not biting VW's pocket, but equally they haven't saved themselves from expense in the first place have they?
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If the coolant is never renewed, how can one be sure that, over a long period, it contains the correct concentration of G13? (For example if it had been topped up from time to time over the years)
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So is the thing to remove these bags then? And just renew coolant every 4-5 years?
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If the coolant is never renewed, how can one be sure that, over a long period, it contains the correct concentration of G13? (For example if it had been topped up from time to time over the years)
I don't really know - but equally as someone who never has old cars or tries to service them myself, is replacing the coolant or checking its anti-corrosion component content actually a thing?
Lots of things I'm aware are maintainance things that occur, but this?
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If the coolant is never renewed, how can one be sure that, over a long period, it contains the correct concentration of G13? (For example if it had been topped up from time to time over the years)
I don't really know - but equally as someone who never has old cars or tries to service them myself, is replacing the coolant or checking its anti-corrosion component content actually a thing?
Lots of things I'm aware are maintainance things that occur, but this?
It certainly is in older cars. My 205 handbook advises drain and flush of coolant every 2 years.
Interestingly, the same handbook states that gearbox needs no oil change. The Haynes manual, however, suggest gearbox oil change every 2 years. I did mine a few months back- because it's an old car and I want it to survive forever. If I wanted a car to use for, say, 10 years, I may not bother.
I think the above discussion about VAQ Dif servicing reflects the uncertainty about whether it is worth doing or not. VW don't seem to know what to say to customers.
No reports of VAQ failure. I bet the Dif survives the useful life of the vehicle in the vast majority of cases, without the need for fluid change.
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So is the thing to remove these bags then? And just renew coolant every 4-5 years?
Personally I would leave it. I suspect the failure rate is very low, but because these tiny little bags cause such catastrophic damage, every case gets talked about.
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The service thing on older cars used to be quite different.
I remember cars I had previously having all sorts of things on the service checklist.
These days a VW proscribed service is an engine oil change and every other one is a "visual inspection". That's it, nothing else.
I don't know if this reflects the lifetime reliability of components (and lack of fluid leaks) or simply that cars are made to be disposable to feed OEM profits.
Actually, this suggests it is simply that components are better and life expectancy is higher:
https://www.aarp.org/auto/trends-lifestyle/info-2018/how-long-do-cars-last.html
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I think they have obsoleted the mit silikat version, although could be wrong, here is a handy link to another thread on the matter;
https://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=285928.0
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At my recent Inspection service (2 weeks ago) they checked my coolant strength (against freezing) and recorded a number on the sheets of A4 that I was given, I guess if VW are recording a value then in theory if the value falls below a certain number they will advise my coolant to be changed??
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So......... collected my 2013 GTI PP yesterday evening, what a cracking car! 40 miles around the M25 at a steady 70mph with a 3 mile 'burst' along some B roads - registered 44MPG! Attached is a photo of what I believe is the coolant tank, anyone know if the dreaded 'silica bag' may lurk within?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kjhbm19K/Coolant-Tank.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Same experience here Rudedog - coolant tested, not just looked at.
Well, JP, no 'mit silikat' written on the side and a sticker that suggests the part is from 2019. I'm going with the crazy guess of that expansion tank has been replaced :)
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Great the expansion tank has been replaced - makes me wonder why?
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Previous owner reads internet forums :laugh:
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Yeah, mit silikat neurotic disorder.
It’s debilitating.
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One thing I noticed this evening. After either a short or long drive, when the ignition is off at key out, there's a fan noise that continues for a good few minutes - sounds like it's coming from the infotainment system. Is this normal?
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That noise would be the coolant circulation pump for the turbocharger bearings and is normal.
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Attached is a photo of what I believe is the coolant tank, anyone know if the dreaded 'silica bag' may lurk within?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kjhbm19K/Coolant-Tank.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
No evil silica bag lurking within, probably has been replaced due to fear of it splitting.
Get a little XCP Rust Blocker or ACF-50 on the wee bolts & screws around the engine bay, and if possible get underneath the car too if you have a friend with a ramp. :smiley:
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Same !! 14k on the clock 2018 plate bought Jan 8th this year has the titan black arts velour seats (devine) and the dynaudio excite 19inch santis all were more important to me than waiting for the PP i was sold on the seats ! :laugh:
I bought a car recently. It’s a daily for me and I didn’t want an R as they are so often targeted for theft. Whilst I’d have preferred a PP, more important to me was spec, mileage and condition. The upgraded audio and art velour trim were well worth a compromise for me. As was a car with sub 10miles as opposed to something at 20k miles plus. No regrets either.
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Art Velour was/is really good.
Its a shame that like so many of the options available its badly documented in VW's literature and the only time you realise quite what something is is when someone on here shows you or explains it- by then its too late because you have your car already and its with you for years.
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Getting the car was an utter fluke ! we were on the hunt for a GTD for my mum i had at the time a mk7 gtd spotted the GTI down at Hadwins VW on Xmas day of all days, paid deposit drove down (naughty i know) on the 4th Jan and bought it straight away 1 owner 13500 on the clock regd March 2018 so almost 3 years old such low mileage car was immaculate not a mark on it ! spotted the seats and fell in love ! same as the clubsport fabric needless to say the kids arent allowed to eat or breathe in the car :) :)
Art Velour was/is really good.
Its a shame that like so many of the options available its badly documented in VW's literature and the only time you realise quite what something is is when someone on here shows you or explains it- by then its too late because you have your car already and its with you for years.
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Art Velour was/is really good.
Its a shame that like so many of the options available its badly documented in VW's literature and the only time you realise quite what something is is when someone on here shows you or explains it- by then its too late because you have your car already and its with you for years.
It's strange that the GT model has a variation of the Art Velour as standard, yet the GTD/GTI/R it was an optional extra at circa £700. I would have loved to have the Art Velour seats but settled for leather since it's easier to find.
What ever happened to the wireless phone charger in the console cubby?
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What ever happened to the wireless phone charger in the console cubby?
???
Wasn't it an option on the Mk7.5?
An expensive one at that and with the advent of Android Auto/Carplay and that being cable connected only back then, I suspect it wasn't something most people picked.
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I love most things about the mk7/7.5 my biggest bug bear is that bloody USB point in the cubby even with small hands its a pain in the butt to get too especially with the DSG gearstick being just in the way ! ridiculous place to put it IMO :laugh:
What ever happened to the wireless phone charger in the console cubby?
???
Wasn't it an option on the Mk7.5?
An expensive one at that and with the advent of Android Auto/Carplay and that being cable connected only back then, I suspect it wasn't something most people picked.
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Yes, its a pain.... plug the cable in once and leave it there is my advice.
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Yes, its a pain.... plug the cable in once and leave it there is my advice.
This can be risky, my OH did it once and the cable got caught in the door when it was closed. It was very difficult to get it to open again since the door has to go down first for the catch to release.
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Door? What door?
The only time in 4 years I opened it was day 1, the only time I closed it was when I sold it! :laugh:
Same as the cupholder/transmission tunnel cubby.... I like all my stuff to be quick draw :cool:
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What ever happened to the wireless phone charger in the console cubby?
???
Wasn't it an option on the Mk7.5?
An expensive one at that and with the advent of Android Auto/Carplay and that being cable connected only back then, I suspect it wasn't something most people picked.
Wireless charging was withdrawn as an option in the early days of the Mk7.5, there were issues with interference of emergency services radio frequency.
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Oh yes.... I remember now.... didn't they even go as far as disabling on cars that had it?
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Yes they did, it wasn't just a Golf issue it was across a few VAG brands at the time.