Cheers
A question if I may, thinking about polishing but don't want to invest in a DA as yet, is hand polishing worthwhile and if so are you able to recommend one and what else would I need to do it? Also, should I clay first? Wasn't intending to clay but I can still feel some particles still in the paint.
Thanks again!
Oh, nearly forgot to say thanks again for advising using the C2v3 on the wheels, it's much better than the Finish Kare which ironically is so much better on the bodywork than the C2v3 was!
You can hand polish but it's VERY hard work and IMO only really useful for dealing with small specific areas. Hand polishing a whole car is a killer tbh, and has limited effect on swirls. What a DA can achieve in a just a few hours will take considerably longer by hand and the results will not be as good. I occasionally do a bit of hand polishing but only confined to spot areas like bird etching and minor marring and that's only if I can't be bothered to break out the DA. But all that said, you can achieve reasonable results with hand polishing if you don't mind putting the effort in.
Worth having a read of this hand polishing guide
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/what-does-polishing-do.html Scroll to bottom of page and select hand polishing link.
With regards to choices of polish pretty much as you would choose if you had a DA, so all dependent on the level of swirls/scratches etc to be corrected. If just for a refinement then a finishing polish such as Sonax Perfect Finish is a good choice or Meguiars 205 Finishing Polish. If more correction is required then something with some cut such as Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut Polish, or Poorboys SSR 2 / 2.5, applied and worked using a foam applicator.
This is also worth a read and VW paint is on the harder side of automotive paints.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/what-polish-should-i-use.htmlRegarding claying, yes I would recommend claying prior to polishing whether it's by hand or DA, especially if even after Tar and Iron remover you can still feel embedded contaminants on the paintwork. If you polish and don't remove these then you will be pushing them further into the paint. A clay mitt is a very user friendly introduction to claying if you've not done it before and I can highly recommend the WoWo Clay Mitt (20% forum discount) which is very easy to use. But you haven't done the tar remover stage yet, so wait until your Tar remover arrives and do that then check the paint for remaining contaminants using the sandwich bag test - hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and run palm over panels, if glassy smooth then clear of particles, if still rough to touch then claying required.
Glad you are liking the C2v3 on wheels - it's a great wheel sealant and so easy on and off, and quick to do monthly, same with the glass. Sounds like you've got it the right way round now, with your FK on the paint and C2 on wheels. I know many love C2 on paint but not for me I'm afraid.
Hope this helps.