Channel 31: Lambda Reading or A/F Ratio
This value is particularly important to be viewed and interpreted only when the car is under full throttle input as lifting up on the throttle will result in funky numbers. Take your log in third gear (or higher if your local authorities will allow) from 2500rpm or so until redline. The values you will see are: 1 = 14.7:1 ratio, .85 = 12.5:1 ratio, .75 = 11:1 ratio. As you have probably figured, simply multiply the lambda value by 14.7 to obtain the ratio. A car that runs 14:1 (lambda value of about .95) all the way up to redline on increased boost is running a bit lean. Conversely, a car that is running 10:1 (lambda value of about .70) from idle to redline is running a bit rich. Remember that lean is your ultimate enemy. Running too lean for too long will spell disaster for the motor. Ideally you would like to see the A/F pass linearly from the factory 14.7:1 at idle towards 13:1 in the mid rpms (3500rpm or so) to at least 12:1 at redline (NOTE: New FSI platforms are running approximately 10.5:1 at WOT). This would show a car that is getting good fuel mileage under easy driving, but richens up nicely as you wind it out under full throttle to redline. This would make you feel at ease driving the car under high load conditions at high speeds (freeway cruising at 120mph) or using the car for frequent track days.
Example of manifold injection performance tuned a/f ratio readings: (NOTE: New FSI will request richer mixtures than this such as Lambda = .75 up top):
RPM Lambda
2500 .99
2750 .95
3000 .95
3250 .95
3500 .90
3750 .90
4000 .90
4250 .85
4500 .85
4750 .85
5000 .85
5250 .85
5500 .85
5750 .85
6000 .80
6250 .80
6500 .80
6750 .80
Channel 34: Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT)
Pretty straight forward here and a great channel to use to give you the heads up that other things are going wrong. This monitors the exhaust gas temperatures of the car. You want to see what the limits are here and it will take some beating on the car to find it. When the car is still warming up, your readings may not accurately reflect just how high these temps can get. Take your car out for some spirited full boost runs, then start logging in the normal 3rd gear WOT manner. Exhaust gas temperatures at 900 degrees Celsius and below are common for our engines when heavily boosted. This sensor appears to be only accurate up to 999 degrees Celsius or so. If you see readings creeping up this high, you have a great indicator that something is not right on your car and your engine is not happy with you. Running too high of temps for too long will spell disaster.
Channel 115: Requested Boost and Actual Boost
This is a very helpful channel for diagnosing boost leaks, trying to figure out why your car went into limp mode, and seeing if the software or hardware (electronic or manual boost controllers) are doing what they should be. This channel displays the boost requested by the computer (requested boost) in the first column and the boost actually made by the turbo (actual boost) in the second column. The readings you will see here can be misleading. First, you should know that the numbers you will see are not yet corrected for atmospheric pressure (about 1040mbar at sea level). The atmospheric pressure seen at the boost sensor is tough to estimate with complete precision, but I have found that subtracting 1000mbar from the numbers gets you close enough to actual boost unless you are living at 20,000 feet above sea level. The next thing you have probably noticed about these numbers are that they are displayed in mbar instead of psi like we are all used to. Well, this won't be a problem thanks to the metric system. 1000mbar = 1 bar and 1 bar = 14.5psi. There you have it.
So, can we all figure out what boost level in psi this car is requesting and making at 3000rpm?
RPM Requested Boost Actual Boost
2500...2100...1800
2750...2200...1950
3000...2200...2250
3250...2200...2200
3500...2200...2100
The correct answer is:
The computer is requesting 1.2 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 17.4psi.
The turbo is boosting 1.25 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 18.1psi.
So why are the above numbers important to us other than acting as a boost guage to entertain us? Well, as you can imagine, if you had a boost leak you would have a car that is requesting the correct boost but you would see very little in the actual boost column. In the case that you had just installed your new little boost controller or N75 valve you could do some logging to find that your actual boost was far exceeding your computers' requested boost numbers causing your car to go into limp mode due to it's sensing an "overboost condition. For those of us who dare to run a turbo that was not designed specifically for the software they are using, this is a great way to see why it is not working out for you. For example, the boost maps on a K03 will show the ECU requesting max boost at around 3000rpms (this is a small turbo that makes its boost low in the rpm range). Now if you were to throw on a Garrett gt28r or T28 turbo or even larger you would see that the computer will still request the max boost at 3000rpm, but the turbo is not capable of making it's max boost until closer to 3800rpm leaving you with an "underboost" condition.
NOTE: The sensor will only measure up to 2540mbar including atmospheric pressure. This means that if you are running more than 1.5bar or 21.75psi of boost this sensor will not measure beyond it. Both values will show maxed out at 2540mbar.