My headlight / sidelight bulb has blown. How do I replace it?
Opinions differ on this one but I found it was easier to remove the bumper and the headlight unit to replace the bulbs. Others have done it in situ but it can be quite fiddly. This link will help with bumper removal.
Link to: Bulb replacement
My car has flat spots when accelerating.
Possible causes are a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, split turbo hose, faulty EGR or N75 boost control valves. These don’t always appear as faults on VAGCOM. MAF sensor appears to be the most common fault. Cleaning the MAF may help but ultimately, it needs replacing.
Link to: MAF Clean and MAF Replacement
How do I remove my OEM head unit?
Cut a sturdy but no longer required credit card/plastic card into 1cm strips lengthways. Insert these into the slots located on the left and right hand lower sides of the HU and it will unlock and you can then remove it.
My W8 Interior light rattles like mad with even moderate bass.
Take light out; split top cover from base unit by releasing clips; then remove lense from cover again by releasing clips. I superglued the lense back in and wedged small lumps of blu-tack between cover and body of light. (pikey but effective) and no more pesky rattles. Also useful if you want to colour code W8 light for an Anni as you only need to spray the cover.
My rear washer isn’t working.
It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the pillar / roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch.
Link to: Washer repair (tailgate) or Pillar
My car keeps stalling / misfiring.
This could be caused by a faulty MAF sensor (again), temperature sender, relay 109 (diesels only), dirty throttle body, faulty coilpacks (petrol) or dirty contacts on the ignition amplifier (AGU 1.8T Engine Only). Relay 109 - the sure-fire sign is when you try to start the car, the glowplug lamp stays out. After a few tries, glowplug light comes on, car starts.
My window has fallen into the door.
The plastic window regulator has probably failed. Repair kits are available, which contain metal clips.
Link to: Imagewerx Regulator Guide - Vortex Window regulator repair guide
My central locking / door lock / alarm isn’t working.
This could be due to a faulty door lock module. You might be able to repair the faulty door lock by re-soldering the connections. Some people seem to have success simply spraying with WD40. Otherwise, it's a case of having to replace it.
Link to: Door lock module info and repair
My windscreen wipers have stopped working.
The mechanism has probably seized. You can either replace the mechanism or strip it down, rub it with wet and dry and re-grease.
Link to: Wiper guide
There's a rattle when I accelerate.
This usually means the front or centre exhaust mount has snapped,small amount of welding needed or you could try using some large jubilee clips.
My cooling fans don't seem to be working correctly when the aircon is running.
Unfortunately, this is another common fault on the MkIV. I THINK it mostly affects the models that have climatronic aircon. To check if your fans are faulty, Andymac recommends the following:
1. turn engine on,
2. turn aircon on,
3. make sure ECON is "OFF"
4. Check fans are running constantly IE for more than 1-2 minutes
5. if the fans do nothing then run very fast, then stop after a minute or 2 or even 3 then you have faulty fans
Link to: Fan synopsis and fix
My key-fob doesn't work
Assuming that the batteries are ok, it's likely that the key has lost it's code. If you have 2 keys, put one in the ignition and turn on (I'd lower the windows, just in case!), manually lock the drivers door with the other key. Press either/both buttons on the remote (alarm should chirp). Manually unlock the door and turn the ignition off. It should now be coded.
My rear seats and boot lining are wet
First of all, check the headlining. If that's wet as well, it's probably caused by the rear washer hose connection - click here for a fix. If it's not wet, it may be the rear vent seals that have perished - click here.
There's resistance in the steering followed by a strange twanging noise, especially when making slow, full lock maneuvers.
Strut top bearings possibly seized.
Boot light doesnt work
Possibly a blown bulb but more likely the rear washer hose has popped off and soaked the boot catch. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that doesnt like getting wet. Remove the boot lid cover by undoing a screw in each handle on the inside, then pull the plastic cover to unclip. The boot catch then comes out by undoing the 2 large spline bolts. Try drying the switch with a hairdryer after stopping the leaking hose, or ultimately replace the whole boot catch. Can also cause the alarm to act strangely.
Heated mirrors don't work
First check to see if your car has them! Pop the mirror glass out by getting your fingers behind the outer edge and pulling, if there are 2 wires attached then they are heated. They are activated by turning on the rear window demister. Check to see if there is 12 Volts across the 2 wires, and/or check the fuse. If there is 12 Volts there and the glass doesn't get warm then the mirror glass needs replacing.
When I adjust the driver's wing mirror, the passenger mirror also moves but when I adjust the passenger mirror the drivers side stays still - is this a fault?
This is a feature not a fault, for convenience when adjusting for different driver height etc. To adjust mirrors, move the drivers side first (R) and then adjust passenger side (L) if necessary
The traction control light is coming on whilst I'm driving
This might also throw an alternator fault code also. The light will go out if the engine is switched off and back on. Follow the 2 small wires from alternator to a connector at front of gearbox, the wires break at that connector.
There's a clunking noise when I go over small bumps.
Possibly caused by worn Anti-Roll Bar bushes.
There's a clunking noise coming from the rear end when I go over bumps.
Rear axle bushes are probably worn and require replacement. This can be an MOT failure so best to be repaired soon after spotting.
Link to: rear axle bush discussion.
EPC light keeps on coming on.
The epc light keeps coming on and goes when the engine is restared, this is a brake light switch failure. go to the stealers and give your chassis number over.. there are over 5 types and several revised version so the chassis number is needed.
INDICATORS sticking of flashing at random intervals
the indicators stick or dont flash with an equal time between them, the light relay has gone this is integrated into the hazard switch.. again a chassis number is needed
