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Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 TDI => Topic started by: paradisiac82 on 23 March 2016, 19:14
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Ok so bought a PD150. Engine sounded ok. Starting first time takes a few attempts and it cuts out on hills sometimes, which the previous owner thinks is possibly injector seals or a fuel issue. does this sound right or are there any other suggestions? its been de-catted and pulls well so turbo is good, just on hills its like its just stalled, if you catch it you can get it back like saving from a stall, if not then turn it off, wait a second or 2 then it starts again as normal but you can keep it going dipping the clutch and getting revs back, doesnt happen all the time usually after its been driven for 10mins or so. seats were in very good condition. both wings will need replacing from scrappy at some point as they are rusted but everything else looked ok.
Ok so its been looked over by the garage at work here is the state of play.
- Compression Test Shows:
Cylinder 1 = 380
Cylinder 2 = 450
Cylinder 3 = 450
Cylinder 4 = 450
- 3 Glow Plugs were not heating up.
- Diagnostic tool and got errors p17564 & p17569, Map Sensor (Thrust Sensor) & Temperature Sensor.
- Fuel/Air Leak from fuel filter.
Not sure if any of this will help with suggestions to possible causes of the issue on hills. Will order glow plugs and sort the fuel/air leak and hope its that but trying to plan in case it is not.
Thanks in advance.
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In tank pump pick up got partially clogged so when the cars going up hill it cant pick the fuel up through the strainer. Thats all i can thing of. Ijector seals id say it would do it all the time and would be smoking where its sucking a little oil into the combustion chamber.
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thank you will check that too :)
do you know what the correct size glow plug should be? i have looked online and they seem to vary. I know the spanner size is 10mm but the probe length seems to give options for 25mm, 29mm, and 30mm and im pretty sure mine measured 32mm or 35mm. 25mm seems to be the most common but like I said places are listing all these sizes for the ARL engine.
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Wouldnt know of hand sorry, normally if i ring for.parts.and theres a choice, suppliers i use go to the main dealer sites to find out.
It also will depend if it measured.overal size or just the end of the glow plug size.
I can try pull one out my pd130 tommorow and measure it. See what that is. Might make more sence then
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Right car all back together, MAP sensor, Temp Sensor, Front Pads/Discs, Fuel Filter, Glow Plugs & Drop Link all replaced, had brother in law look at it (his garage specialises in VW among others) and upon starting the engine his instant reaction was 'oh shoot, you bought a bad one'. As you can imagine my heart sunk, especially after spending a little bit on parts, his gut instinct is cams on their way out, which for 179k is very plausible. Obviously not a disastrous problem, but not sure work will do that one without charging labor as its not a straight forward job like the other bits. He reset the fault codes and none came back so thats a bonus, still not taken it out for a drive as the cam issue scares me a bit as he said it could last 10, 1k, 10k or even 100k (although doubtful) before it goes. On Tues I will ask if they will take the rocker cover off and look at the cams as we didnt have time today, if they are gone then will have to decide what to do, sell and recover my costs or do the cam (money permitting). I know you get what you pay for, but obvs on a budget, are the chilled cast ones on eBay safe to use? My brother in law said they only fit parts supplied VW so he wasnt going to comment on the cheaper ones.
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Darkside development do a hardened cam cheaper than. Vw sell a new ine for. Keep waiting for my passat to eat through the cam. You need to do the rocker arms and followers as well. As a rule.
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oh more parts, price building up now :(
not sure if we can post links so wont, but does this have everything I need?
'CAMSHAFT WITH 8 X HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (BLACK HARDENED TYPE) AND CAM SHELL BEARINGS' not sure what the followers and rocker arms are.
Also is the chilled cast cam ok or does it have to be steel?
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Rockers are me getting words mixed up. Everything in that kit but the injector arms are needed.
Umm cam wise dont know, but steel id think would be better
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Rockers are me getting words mixed up. Everything in that kit but the injector arms are needed.
Umm cam wise dont know, but steel id think would be better
so everything in that kit plus injector arms?
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It looks like it mate. You might want to get your brother inlaw to check the arms but as a rule if the cams wearing then the rest of it is aswell.
We always change the arms if the cam lobes where the arm sits is worn.
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It looks like it mate. You might want to get your brother inlaw to check the arms but as a rule if the cams wearing then the rest of it is aswell.
We always change the arms if the cam lobes where the arm sits is worn.
He lives in Jersey so is only over for the weekend else wouldn't of been an issue he would of just done it all for me :(
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Love the pd150 but the chocolate cam makes buying one a game of Russian roulette. Shame really :(
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Love the pd150 but the chocolate cam makes buying one a game of Russian roulette. Shame really :(
if i replace with a kit with the black lifters problem is a lot worse yes?
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It looks like it mate. You might want to get your brother inlaw to check the arms but as a rule if the cams wearing then the rest of it is aswell.
We always change the arms if the cam lobes where the arm sits is worn.
He lives in Jersey so is only over for the weekend else wouldn't of been an issue he would of just done it all for me :(
Ahh well it depends on which lobes are worn to if you need to touch the injector arms
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All the kits are redesigned so you won't have the problem again
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thanks, could worn/faulty cams give the symptoms I have (other than the rattle on acceleration) of not starting first time of the day, hissing from the fuel filter and dying on hills?
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(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/th_VIDEO0001_zpsosu56ee4.mp4) (http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VIDEO0001_zpsosu56ee4.mp4)
thats it on idle, dont have any of it under acceleration, not sure if that is any indicator as I can hear anything other than the hissing wrong.
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Pictures tiny. Is there a lotofairbubble. Cos that would suggest there air in the lines and thats before the cams or pump
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Pictures tiny. Is there a lotofairbubble. Cos that would suggest there air in the lines and thats before the cams or pump
CLICK on the pic :grin:
Its a video :wink:
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O phone just took me.to photobucket. Stupid sony
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Have you pulled the clip out and seen if the oring is in good condition. No splits on the underside of them pipes either are there
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Have you pulled the clip out and seen if the oring is in good condition. No splits on the underside of them pipes either are there
of the fuel filter? I had a new one with new O rings fitted on Thurs, problem still there.
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Ok, so oil an filter changed, car insured so drove it for the first time. Made it home without stalling or hesitating but was only a 5 mile trip although there were plenty of hills I didn't push the car at all. There were puffs of white/blue smoke occasionally but they seemed to stop about half way home. The trip computer was reset and after my drive home showed average speed of 14mph, 24.8mpg, -:--mpg, 5mi, 23mins. I will have a look in the manual to see what these mean, but the 5mi I'm hoping is the miles I have done (5.4 miles on the normal mileage counter) and not how much miles it thinks is left as the fuel gauge is showing half a tank.
Another thing, which is a major issue but a bit annoying, when I unlock the car with the keyfob the drivers door unlocks, when I press it a second time, nothing happens (noises and flashing lights but passenger door does not unlock). Both doors unlock fine using the key and the button on the drivers door by the window switches, but not on the keyfob, any ideas?
Overall was a nice car to drive, although was over cautious as I don't want to kill it.
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Check the ccm. Dnt know where they are on golfs. Been reading all day because of my passat doing same thing but with the key not the fob.
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will have a look for the CCM, checked and the boot doesnt open off the fob either.
Driving to work, pulled onto dual carriageway and car started to judder under acceleration and power was way down then power steering went, battery light came on and it stopped. AA towed me to work, no fuel was coming out of filter to engine even though gauge is showing half a tank of diesel. He checked pump and it was priming so he added fuel primed it a few times and with hose off fuel filter diesel came out, put hose on and car started. Looks like fuel gauge is broke as with £10 added it still sat on half a tank.
How does the fuel gauge work, it's empty when ignition is off and goes up to just under half a tank when ignition is on. He added 2 fuel cans and it didn't go up more, the car was idling for a good few minutes and it still didn't go up.
Don't know if this is any help as I had a fair few things monitoring but this is my graph on Torque for my trip in this morning, maybe one of you can see something obvious?
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Torque%20Breakdown%20graph_zpshh6jajpp.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Torque%20Breakdown%20graph_zpshh6jajpp.jpg.html)
the fuel filter was still hissing, the AA guy didnt think it was coming from there but when he put his cloth over the hoses the noise stopped. he also noticed when revving the fuel outlet hose from the filter was bubbling, which he stopped by moving the clip a bit closer, so maybe an air bubble was getting in the system causing it to stall?
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U seem to have the same sortof issue as my passat. I forget have you scanned it. I found 5 codes no eml. Also I scanned the instrument panel and found a code with relates to fuel pump relay or wiring that makes them go down on power and generally play up.
The gragh seem OK except the mass drop on the lightblue (colour blind, could be different)
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it was scanned and had coolant and MAP sensor faults, replaced them and no codes now. checked again after breaking down and still no codes found :( The mass drop in blue is RPM i think, which is when engine cut out so think thats normal.
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would crank sensor cause these issues?
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When it was hot it would cause issues more than when cold.
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When it was hot it would cause issues more than when cold.
It only cuts out when hot, has never done it from cold, always been after a good 10 minutes driving, although always being on a hill is the bit that throws me.
Also idle is a bit random, even after 1st non start, it starts every time but always seems like low revs (around 700-850rpm) for a few seconds then settles on 900-980rpm. Engine does move A LOT, which I'm not convinced is normal. The engine rattle is still a bit worrying as I was told the cam doesn't look badly worn, what else could be causing it?
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Engine movement could be a simple as a mount worn. Dogbone mount causes movement but your gearstick would move abit during acceleration.
My passat ticks over at 858 according to the live data taken the other day.
If you have a scanner, best thing to so is.scan when it cuts out as it may have the code there, crank sensor for instance but as soon as it rums again the codes gone because its not a perminent fault
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Engine movement could be a simple as a mount worn. Dogbone mount causes movement but your gearstick would move abit during acceleration.
My passat ticks over at 858 according to the live data taken the other day.
If you have a scanner, best thing to so is.scan when it cuts out as it may have the code there, crank sensor for instance but as soon as it rums again the codes gone because its not a perminent fault
there were no fault codes when it died on Friday it was the first thing I did when I pulled it stopped. However I'm 99% sure although the symptoms were the same, this event was just the fact I ran out of diesel.
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Its a waiting game then bud.
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Looking to replace the hoses for some coloured ones, are these the correct ones?
Top vac hoses (3mm)
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/221489623955
Fuel hoses (8mm)
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/252291325315
I have read about EGR Delete and then Vac Simplification, but cant quite work out what the benefit is for the money the EGR Delete kit costs, might as well just make whats there look more presentable for under £10
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I used 3mm on mine. Pluss theres some. 6mm I believe or on the passats there is.
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I used 3mm on mine. Pluss theres some. 6mm I believe or on the passats there is.
what about for the fuel hoses? isnt that 8mm or is that O/D?
is that vac hose going to be strong enough, seems very cheap
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I get my vac hose from ash hoses. Always have
Fuel hose is internal 8mm but I havent uses silicone as fuel hose so dont know if it would hold up being single ply.
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Ive just looked at the fuel hose one and should be good.
Put in watch list aswell for my golf build
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Ive just looked at the fuel hose one and should be good.
Put in watch list aswell for my golf build
ok thanks, the hissing stopped from the fuel filter for a while and re-seated all the hoses but still think there is air getting into the system causes the shut down as I have read several people with the same symptoms from having bubbles in the fuel lines. Seems to be car idles fine and will stay idling for a long time, but once under load it cuts out and then can take 10, 20, 30...mins to start again, then it drives for a bit before cutting out again. Im 99% sure its coming from that T-Piece in the fuel filter, even though its had 2 new ones with new O' Rings :(
is going into a specialist on Monday and really hope they dont rule out air bubbles. Wish I had some clear hose to fit to test it, which part would the bubbles be most visible? or would I be better buying 1m of clear fuel hose and replacing it all before it goes in on Monday?
would http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PVC-BRAIDED-HOSE-PIPE-REINFORCED-TUBING-FOOD-WATER-AIR-OIL-FUEL-CLEAR-PLASTIC-/271102251848?var=570454518662&hash=item3f1ef41348:m:msbeKKdj1ynh8pvd5YFVrQg or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1m-CLEAR-PVC-UNREINFORCED-HOSE-8mm-5-16-FUEL-WATER-AIR-LINE-GAS-OIL-PIPE-TUBING-/270820609073?hash=item3f0e2a8c31:g:l2wAAOxyThVTZ0w~ be strong enough?
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Both should be fine. If you went filter to tandem pump with clear, youd see if air was there. Also clear to the filter would tell you if the air is coming from further back.
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Both should be fine. If you went filter to tandem pump with clear, youd see if air was there. Also clear to the filter would tell you if the air is coming from further back.
so maybe get 1m and just replace it all, at least until its been diagnosed and the problem is cured? will see whats definitely going on then, well apart from the plastic parts that go to the fuel tank
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My bet would be the air (if its in there) will be filter to tandem pump. But youll see with see through piping mate
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My bet would be the air (if its in there) will be filter to tandem pump. But youll see with see through piping mate
Where is the tandem pump located?
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On the engine. Run by the cam. So gearbox side
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On the engine. Run by the cam. So gearbox side
ok thanks.
As Monday is getting closer trying to make a checklist of the issues I have noticed, I'm sure I'm missing bits which is why if I start now might remember before Monday. So far I have got:
· Struggles to start first time but after that starts fine
· Drives fine the judders until eventually stalling, will not start for approx. 20-30mins, fuel does not seem to be pumping during this time
· Hissing from fuel filter area
· Engine rattle
· Excessive engine movement*
· Inter-cooler leaking**
· Passenger door and boot not unlocking on key fob
· Low MPG from TRIP
· Fuel Gauge not working correctly***
* Might just be normal but to me seems excessive
** Looks like there is, or has been, liquid coming from joints going into/out of inter-cooler
*** Although it has gone up a little bit, nowhere near as much as I would expect after adding two plastic cans of diesel to what was already just under half a tank
Also they have said they should be able to enable MTE as long as my cluster supports it. Are there any other features that I should look into getting enabled/disabled, well as long as the issue with it not running isn't terminal, whilst its there?
Sorry for all the posts, just want to be 100% prepared for Monday, I'm sure they will do a complete diagnostic anyway, but the pessimist in me thinks they might find one issue, find the solution and assume that's all it was so want to be sure in my head I arm them with as much information as I can.
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On the door boot thing do they all unlock on the key in the drivers door.
Check the internal electric boot lock.
Also passenger lock. As its all together.
Intercooler leaking, is that from what I describe as the stupid clips vw use.
Not too many posts. Better to find/fix a problem yourself other than use a garage if possible.
Its a shame your not closer as fault findingis difficult when reading whats wrong and not being able to go through it yourself
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On the door boot thing do they all unlock on the key in the drivers door.
Check the internal electric boot lock.
Also passenger lock. As its all together.
Intercooler leaking, is that from what I describe as the stupid clips vw use.
Not too many posts. Better to find/fix a problem yourself other than use a garage if possible.
Its a shame your not closer as fault findingis difficult when reading whats wrong and not being able to go through it yourself
Yeh both the boot and passenger door unlock fine with the key in drivers door when you turn it twice (lock on boot is seized key wont turn, or they have fitted a different barrel not sure which) and with the button inside the car, it worked fine when I first got it but stopped within a few days.
The intercooler leak is where the hoses go into the actual intercooler on both sides, not looked into it as main priority is getting the car to actually run for longer than a few miles lol but there is definitely something around those joins, not sure if its still leaking or is from a previous leak, but as its in for an hour of diagnosing, I want them to check any little things as I'm sure the issue of not running wont take them long, my money is on crank sensor and/or air in the system.
Where is the internal electric boot lock is that the button on the drivers door?
Yeh being in Cornwall there isn't many people around to help, and most local garages are a waste of space unfortunately, they just replace parts until it eventually works.
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Cornwalls only down the road...
In the boot lid its self but it id not say it was that. Altgough could still be if door and boot went at same time.
Crank sensor could be on the money.
Thats what I think my passat is, never lists a code as mines that intermittent.
I find that common practice with a lot of garages is replace until its solved. Doesnt help when a customer has to front the bill for parts not needed.
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Cornwalls only down the road...
In the boot lid its self but it id not say it was that. Altgough could still be if door and boot went at same time.
Crank sensor could be on the money.
Thats what I think my passat is, never lists a code as mines that intermittent.
I find that common practice with a lot of garages is replace until its solved. Doesnt help when a customer has to front the bill for parts not needed.
Yeh its annoying both the boot and passenger don't work as it doesn't really narrow it down, although would a faulty passenger lock module stop the boot from unlocking also?
I think so far between the previous owner and me we have already replaced all the leading contenders, the only thing left really is the crank sensor, kind of wish I had started with that and left the fuel filter (as the previous owner had already replaced that) but I was certain the hissing noise meant air was getting in and that was the issue.
Do you know what size O' Rings are on the filter T-Piece? I have read getting some slightly thicker ones might stop the hissing as it sounds like its coming from there
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Not off hand. But you can pick aasorted o rings up cheap enough.
No shouldn't think so.
Battery in fob dead.
Door latch/boot latch
Comfort control module (I think that runs central locking on mk4)
Problem is you question yourself, well I do.
Youll kick yourself, if its crank sensor.
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Not off hand. But you can pick aasorted o rings up cheap enough.
No shouldn't think so.
Battery in fob dead.
Door latch/boot latch
Comfort control module (I think that runs central locking on mk4)
Problem is you question yourself, well I do.
Youll kick yourself, if its crank sensor.
Yeh question myself all the time, especially as I have done any work on cars for years, used to have vauxhals as they were easy to fix/upgrade.
Drivers door works fine on fob, so battery is 99% rules out I think.... the thing that is puzzling me most is, it unlocks fine with key (2 turns) and button on drivers door, so, does this mean there are 3 circuits on the locking modules, 1 for key, 1 for key fob and 1 for button in car, if so this seems a bit silly and over complicated, if not, then why is it working with 2 out of the 3?
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Rules out ccm as that would.stop it working the boot button.
Has your fob got a seperate boot button?
Could be the fob faulty.
Key is sort of the manual if all else fails way.
Then the fob does the same job but sent to a reciever first.
Could be sentral locking fuse maybe (unlikely but heard of stranger things)
And the unlock button/boot button again does the same but sends power to the locks. So rule the locks out.
Gotta be fob/ reciever
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Rules out ccm as that would.stop it working the boot button.
Has your fob got a seperate boot button?
Could be the fob faulty.
Key is sort of the manual if all else fails way.
Then the fob does the same job but sent to a reciever first.
Could be sentral locking fuse maybe (unlikely but heard of stranger things)
And the unlock button/boot button again does the same but sends power to the locks. So rule the locks out.
Gotta be fob/ reciever
nope only a 2 button fob. When you press the unlock button twice the locks make a noise, just nothing happens, but it locks using the fob, which again, makes it weird if the fob/sensor was an issue how can it receive the signal to lock? all far too technical for my head to get around
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Thats my thought process. Could be the reciever not recognising that you have already unlocked the car, there for just trying to unlock the drivers door again.
If you are stood next to pas door can you here it try unlocking?
Vagcom will discover the problem.
Should be able to recode the fob/ check reciever ect
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Thats my thought process. Could be the reciever not recognising that you have already unlocked the car, there for just trying to unlock the drivers door again.
If you are stood next to pas door can you here it try unlocking?
Vagcom will discover the problem.
Should be able to recode the fob/ check reciever ect
yeh you can definitely hear it trying to unlock, and from memory I think the door pin even jumps a little bit too. Car is locked away now until the 18th so can't do any checks until then, which is why im trying to gather as much info early so that any minor jobs I can quickly do/check before it goes into diagnostics center to save time/money, and possibly a false diagnostic as they stop on something thats only part of the problem not the total problem, or I just forget a vital piece of information that makes their diagnostic easier and more accurate.
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Hmm. Wip the door card of and unlock the car from inside. So you can see what the rod is doing. Or isnt.
I dont know the wiring but id say that the internal unlock button and key fob run the same door loom.
So unlock with for (may have said that already) while in the car to see whats going on behind the door.
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ok, will do a quick VCDS before it goes in, mention it to them and if still not working or an answer when I get it back will whip off the door card and see. is annoying more than anything as it worked fine for a few days and all the other methods of unlocking are working fine so seems odd. might also replace the fob battery to be safe (wont need recoding will it?), what size battery do they take?
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Another quick question, is there any way to find out what BHP the car is running other than booking it in for a RR session?
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Not really.
Unless you know someone with the same golf so you can gauge if its the same power
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Not really.
Unless you know someone with the same golf so you can gauge if its the same power
Ah ok, just been reading about rolling roads and apparently they can be very inaccurate so a bit weary about shelling out money on fudged figures.
About the key fob battery, changing it wont mean re-coding will it?
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Shouldnt do.
Its finding a rr thats calibrated regular I think.
Theres makes that are more accurate aswell.
Have a search local
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Yeh found a couple with 'ok' reviews.
You know much about Black Smoke Remaps? £55 to go from my stock 150BHP to 182BHP, I know its a generic map so wont be the best, but for the money seems like a good start
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Is that a eBay map?
Generic maps have had loads of tine spent on them to make them how they are (normally)
When I was going to start remapping (buying maps off of my mate who has a remap company), he said not to touch eBay maps.
Im sure not all are just chucked together though.
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Is that a eBay map?
Generic maps have had loads of tine spent on them to make them how they are (normally)
When I was going to start remapping (buying maps off of my mate who has a remap company), he said not to touch eBay maps.
Im sure not all are just chucked together though.
no not ebay, from http://blacksmoke.co.uk/ the look legit and all
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Generic maps get a bad rep but they all started out as one off custom maps.
Generic maps are those that are tried and tested and give you the best blend between performance, reliability and economy
Its the car and its components that are always the weak link and a remap will quickly find these
As said AVOID Ebay; you need to find a tuner who has expericence and a good reputation
Black Smoke maps are ok BUT you need to buy a Galleto cable and there is always the risk it will brick your ecu and turn your car into a very expensive brick :whistle:
Tuners like myself use relaible equipment, that should anything go wrong, we have the ability to recover the ecu and get you going again :smiley:
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Generic maps get a bad rep but they all started out as one off custom maps.
Generic maps are those that are tried and tested and give you the best blend between performance, reliability and economy
Its the car and its components that are always the weak link and a remap will quickly find these
As said AVOID Ebay; you need to find a tuner who has expericence and a good reputation
Black Smoke maps are ok BUT you need to buy a Galleto cable and there is always the risk it will brick your ecu and turn your car into a very expensive brick :whistle:
Tuners like myself use relaible equipment, that should anything go wrong, we have the ability to recover the ecu and get you going again :smiley:
was looking at the MMPS route as that seemed straight forward but was worried about bricking it. I would love to take it somewhere to get done, but £55 compared to £150+ (I know you get what you pay for) is a huge difference, and even then, from bits of reading around you cant always trust the tuners to give you a good map either. I know 9/10 will be excellent, but my luck I will take it to the 1/10 tuner that doesnt do a good job
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Research the tunners.
Carbon
Darkside development
Dervtech
Ryhso
Map-tech
R-tech
All know there stuff.
Choose whos closest, price affordability and go for it.
Doing it yourself leaves you f**ked. But if a tuner mucks it up atleast they have the know how to sort it. (ilunless you do then I retract what I have said)
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By the time you've bought the map and the MMPS then you're not far off the price of an actual remap lol
Have a look at local forums and ask friends etc who have had their cars mapped for recommendations :smiley:
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Research the tunners.
Carbon
Darkside development
Dervtech
Ryhso
Map-tech
R-tech
All know there stuff.
Choose whos closest, price affordability and go for it.
Doing it yourself leaves you f**ked. But if a tuner mucks it up atleast they have the know how to sort it. (ilunless you do then I retract what I have said)
At least spell my name right FFS :angry: :tongue: :grin:
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Most important step is to get the car running right. Once it is then drive it for at least a month / 1000 miles to ensure your problems are ironed out :smiley:
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Sorry bud. It was what my phone decided the spelling was. :laugh:
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Research the tunners.
Carbon
Darkside development
Dervtech
Ryhso
Map-tech
R-tech
All know there stuff.
Choose whos closest, price affordability and go for it.
Doing it yourself leaves you f**ked. But if a tuner mucks it up atleast they have the know how to sort it. (ilunless you do then I retract what I have said)
By the time you've bought the map and the MMPS then you're not far off the price of an actual remap lol
Have a look at local forums and ask friends etc who have had their cars mapped for recommendations :smiley:
not a lot of options available in Cornwall, I don't want to brick my car thats for sure, and to be honest, I have VCDS and dont know how to utilise that so for being able to unbrick it, well, I wouldnt know where to start :(
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I dont know of any down that way.
But as said local forum/friends who have mapped cars.
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I dont know of any down that way.
But as said local forum/friends who have mapped cars.
none of my friends have had good experiences with maps, which is why I was looking at the generic ones. cant seem to find people on the VW forums from this way, yet there are hundreds of VW driving around
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Well sort the car. Save some pennies and have a word with who ever takes your fancy and arrange a day.
Rhyso is probally the closest.. Without google maps thats a guess. And my geography isnt great.
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Well sort the car. Save some pennies and have a word with who ever takes your fancy and arrange a day.
Rhyso is probally the closest.. Without google maps thats a guess. And my geography isnt great.
Yeh will find out where I stand on Monday, all going well won't be much longer til I'm up and running again. Cam, Timing Belt, Auxiliary Belt and Water Pump next on my list to do to be safe, then see how car runs, I'm just thinking from past experience the car will be great, for a few months, then I will want more, so always planning on how much its gunna cost :evil:
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Always the way mate.
Itll be fine once the cutting out is sorted
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Always the way mate.
Itll be fine once the cutting out is sorted
Yeh thats my number 1 priority, but cant help think ahead, really hope its just the crank sensor as thats a nice easy fix, then get some miles under my belt and see what needs improving on it, anything is going to be better than the Mitsi Carisma I have now for both speed and handling lol
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From another forum I'm on:
My girlfriends got a MK4 Golf GTI 2.0 but has had some problems recently.
It kept starting to cut out while driving, but then coming back to life displaying the "emissions workshop" message. Eventually it cut out and would not restart.
I go and give her a tow home, bring it home and use the starter to bring it onto the drive and it fires up into life - weird.
Took it for a quick spin an hour later, all seemed normal, ran ok. Left it idling for 5 mins and then it cut out. This happened a few times.
Idles ok when running, but it does smell a bit... exhaust fumey for want of a better word.
When cranking the tacho always moves which suggests the crankshaft sensor is ok?
Plugged in my ScanGauge but it couldn't detect any faults.
Thoughts on a postcard - otherwise it's going to the garage on Tuesday.
Garage took a look and cleaned the throttle body, didn't fix it and they were a bit stuck.
I bought a VAGCOM and it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Fitted this morning and it hasn't cut out yet. Fingers crossed.
Looking hopeful mine is just a simple crank sensor :)
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Thata on here aswell. Was just reading it. Soon time to retire the carisma
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ah was it, missed that lol yeh really hoping so, it will be going to the big scrap yard in the sky once golf is up and running :-) be really nice to actually have it running and then start the modding :-) been nearly a month now and only putting 9ish miles on the clock is heart breaking
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Might aswell of brought a classic with that mileage
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Might aswell of brought a classic with that mileage
yeh :grin: hopefully after Monday I will know every little issue there is with it, fix the major ones (if I'm lucky just crank sensor), and work through the little ones over time, whilst upgrading parts, will be a long process but in the short time I have had this car I have fallen in love with it so will have it for a long long time :)
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Looks as though Golf is off the road until May 7th no matter what happens tomorrow at garage :angry: Bloody iGO4
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O no. At least if its sorted you know you can drive it fault free
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Well heard back, no faults found sensor wise but they said the fuel hoses where wrong way around, I personally can't see how it would start and drive at all like this but my knowledge is low so they might be right, does it sound plausible? They have taken it for a run and said it drove fine without issues. They are keeping it over night to see how it is on first start tomorrow and will give it another run, all going well though should have it back by lunch tomorrow all working with such a simple fix.
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Hmmm. Wrong way round to the filter might.
Cant see how but maybe theyll explain better in person
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Yeh seems odd, hopefully they will take it for a longer run tomorrow and not have any issues. Diagnosis was £40 Inc swapping the hoses so not a huge outlay, they haven't mentioned any other issues so will check they think the engine rattle sounds OK too. Overall will be pleased it it was that simple, but not holding my breath, think they might of just had one of its lucky days as it drove there fine too
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Hmm could be. My crank sensor issue never chuxked a xode though as it was intermittent. Theyll have a shoxk if it does play up
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Yeh, it's got half a tank of diesel in it so might get them to go for a longer run
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Well done nearly 100 miles in it without any issues :) is still not great at starting first time so will look into that but is making it from A-B now. Not getting great MPG and the needle is still stuck on 1/2 a tank even after all that driving. Used VCDS to check cluster and the fuel gauge needle is working as it should so its not that which is something, while at it I decided to turn on auto lock/unlock and 'Chirp' on lock which was successful. Is the fuel pump used in other diesels or just the ARL, there are 2 diesels at the scrap so thought I might be able to get one cheap to test it. The locking issue has corrected itself so now all doors unlock fine on second press of fob. There is a rattle from the passenger door and no audio from front speakers so something to look into in the future but not anything I will worry about right now, think the rattle is probably the speaker not being attached as window works fine as does the lock so cant think what else is in there.
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Fuel pump is on the side of the engine. Otherside to the camsprocket.
Lift pump in the tank.
Its probally thw lift pump not very good. Hence start up not good. But should have Fuel up there so maybe an issue with fuel running back.
Qny excess smoke on start up.
1St start up only. Couldbe glow plugs. Good to hear its behaving though
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Fuel pump is on the side of the engine. Otherside to the camsprocket.
Lift pump in the tank.
Its probally thw lift pump not very good. Hence start up not good. But should have Fuel up there so maybe an issue with fuel running back.
Qny excess smoke on start up.
1St start up only. Couldbe glow plugs. Good to hear its behaving though
Yeh a big puff of smoke on first start I think. Had new glow plugs so shouldnt be that. I think the PD150 only has the 1 fuel pump under the back seat, sure I read that somewhere
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If your injectors are under the rocker cover. Which if its a pd they will be. Theres a pump on side of the head. Doesnt look like a pump but it is. Haha
What colour smoke.
My a4 loves to wind over and not start for ages. Thats got a couple of piston rings need doing. That puffs blacky blue when it starts.
Could be the glow plugs not actually working but thatll only change when ita warmer in the morning. I think (cant remeber) that after 2 degrees the glow plugs dont do anything. You can test them on a bench with a battery but that wont tell you if the relay for them is working I suppose
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Whip off the rocker cover and inspect the cams for wear
Poor first start could also be down to a low battery
Sender in the fuel tank will be your dodgy gauge
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The smoke is white. If you have your foot on the accelerator its starts first time, so not sure what it is.
Cams look like they are starting to wear but nothing serious.....yet. they are on my to do list when funds allow.
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Hmmm. Losing any water
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Hmmm. Losing any water
no not anything noticable
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If you preheat twice does it make it start better.
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If you preheat twice does it make it start better.
nope, only thing that makes a difference is if I have my foot on the accelerator it starts, but doesn't rev instantly there is a delay of a few seconds after starting before it starts to rev, which is odd.
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Hmmm. Sounds like the lift pump in tank isnt working. You can check via vagcom. Canbus wont let you just multimeter it.
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Hmmm. Sounds like the lift pump in tank isnt working. You can check via vagcom. Canbus wont let you just multimeter it.
how do I check in vagcom (im using registered version of vcds lite not vagcom)?
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Here are measuring blocks at idle that had readings. Can't see anything thats measuring the boost though.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/1%202%203_zpsy3ourlqm.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/1%202%203_zpsy3ourlqm.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/4%205%206_zpscaohov3r.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/4%205%206_zpscaohov3r.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/7%208%209_zpsx9o8ccdl.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/7%208%209_zpsx9o8ccdl.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/10%2011%2012_zpsj233kwja.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/10%2011%2012_zpsj233kwja.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/13%2015%2016_zpsjwndnzrz.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/13%2015%2016_zpsjwndnzrz.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/20_zpsxwjwemet.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/20_zpsxwjwemet.png.html)
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Looking at that its showing as an AJM engine, have I been coned?
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Sticker in the service book or white sticker in the spare wheel
AJM is the 115
ASZ is the 130
ARL is the 150
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Sticker in the service book or white sticker in the spare wheel
AJM is the 115
ASZ is the 130
ARL is the 150
It says ARL and reg shows up as ARL (PD150) but like I said, those pics from VCDS Lite are showing engine code AJM so I'm fearing its had an engine swap :(
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Aslong as turbo and such are cchanted wouldnt matter. Could have had an ecu swap as thats what vcd would pic up.
Perform that test on first start of the day and post up. Then can see if it shows where the problem lies.
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Aslong as turbo and such are cchanted wouldnt matter. Could have had an ecu swap as thats what vcd would pic up.
Perform that test on first start of the day and post up. Then can see if it shows where the problem lies.
What test? Is there any way of finding out (is there any physical differences) which it is? seems very quick for a 115bhp but never driven one so it might be :(
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Sticker in the service book or white sticker in the spare wheel
AJM is the 115
ASZ is the 130
ARL is the 150
It says ARL and reg shows up as ARL (PD150) but like I said, those pics from VCDS Lite are showing engine code AJM so I'm fearing its had an engine swap :(
There should be a tag on the engine itself by the cam cover i think
Does it have pipework coming from the top right as you look at it, down the drivers side and then across the front of the engine towards the passenger side?
If so then its the 150 as it has a frount mounted intercooler :smiley:
See this link for a picture
http://racingbazar.hu/alkatresz/komplett_motor/arl_motorkod_1.9pdtdi_150le_motor_elado_golf_iv_bora
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Sticker in the service book or white sticker in the spare wheel
AJM is the 115
ASZ is the 130
ARL is the 150
It says ARL and reg shows up as ARL (PD150) but like I said, those pics from VCDS Lite are showing engine code AJM so I'm fearing its had an engine swap :(
There should be a tag on the engine itself by the cam cover i think
Does it have pipework coming from the top right as you look at it, down the drivers side and then across the front of the engine towards the passenger side?
If so then its the 150 as it has a frount mounted intercooler :smiley:
Yeh it has a front mounted intercooler, its def a 150 from factory, would a 115 not fit the FMIC from a 150? I'm just thinking if it has been swapped and they could of left that in place then maybe they have. IF not, and say it is something like the ECU being swapped, will that give me a 115 map?
Yes it looks like the one in the link sent, what does a AJM look like?
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If its a 150 engine and they swapped the ecu with a 115 map it mostly likely wouldn't even start
If it did it would run like a bag of nails, really lethargic, as the engines have a few differences like injectors, turbo etc
A 115 can be fitted with a FMIC but it's unlikey to follow the same pipework route as the 150
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If its a 150 engine and they swapped the ecu with a 115 map it mostly likely wouldn't even start
If it did it would run like a bag of nails, really lethargic, as the engines have a few differences like injectors, turbo etc
A 115 can be fitted with a FMIC but it's unlikey to follow the same pipework route as the 150
ok thanks, so any idea why VCDS Lite would be reading it as an AJM? And looking at the screen captures is there any way you can tell if everything looks normal for a 150?
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Take a pic close to the rocker. And well see if we can see the engine code
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Cam cover says ARL but I assume its the same shape/fitting so that could of been swapped?
Have taken some pics but couldnt see anything useful will upload them in a min
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I dont think theyd go to the effort of swapping a rocker cover over.
If it was a 20vt it would be in the block casting. Dont think the tdi has that
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(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0273_zpsybuff1az.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0273_zpsybuff1az.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0272_zpsdfboxn4j.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0272_zpsdfboxn4j.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0270_zpslz1cwutz.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0270_zpslz1cwutz.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0263_zpsgulrsioy.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0263_zpsgulrsioy.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0262_zpsygj34w0a.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0262_zpsygj34w0a.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0260_zpsi31h7ezj.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0260_zpsi31h7ezj.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0259_zpsu33qqxzp.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0259_zpsu33qqxzp.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0256_zpsjg6yvygr.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0256_zpsjg6yvygr.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0255_zpsqklphehi.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0255_zpsqklphehi.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0254_zps9ydosprh.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0254_zps9ydosprh.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0253_zpsjmraktuz.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0253_zpsjmraktuz.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0252_zpsoxnlqtau.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0252_zpsoxnlqtau.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0250_zps9eiz7ekp.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0250_zps9eiz7ekp.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0249_zpsn9diwgkh.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0249_zpsn9diwgkh.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0248_zpsleze40og.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0248_zpsleze40og.jpg.html)
Also, this looks like it should have something connected to it but there doesnt seem to be any metal bits inside so why is it there and what is it?
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0264_zpsmvttzzxs.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0264_zpsmvttzzxs.jpg.html)
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Needs a bloody good clean too :tongue:
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Yeh I just wasn't sure if this was easily swappable (if its same size fitting could the original cover be fitted to an AJM engine to mask its change?)
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Yeh I just wasn't sure if this was easily swappable (if its same size fitting could the original cover be fitted to an AJM engine to mask its change?)
I'm 99.9% certain that that engine is the 150 ARL :wink:
Also ARL is stamped on the suspension tower
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Yeh I just wasn't sure if this was easily swappable (if its same size fitting could the original cover be fitted to an AJM engine to mask its change?)
I'm 99.9% certain that that engine is the 150 ARL :wink:
Ok thanks :-) can you have a quick look at my VCDS screens and tell me which measuring block I need to use to see the boost?
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Yeh I just wasn't sure if this was easily swappable (if its same size fitting could the original cover be fitted to an AJM engine to mask its change?)
I'm 99.9% certain that that engine is the 150 ARL :wink:
Ok thanks :-) can you have a quick look at my VCDS screens and tell me which measuring block I need to use to see the boost?
Off the top of my head its group 12 or 13
Just cycle through the groups until you find it but I'm fairly certain its one of the above
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ARL on the cam cover :wink:
9th picture down
Yeh I just wasn't sure if this was easily swappable (if its same size fitting could the original cover be fitted to an AJM engine to mask its change?)
I'm 99.9% certain that that engine is the 150 ARL :wink:
Ok thanks :-) can you have a quick look at my VCDS screens and tell me which measuring block I need to use to see the boost?
Off the top of my head its group 12 or 13
Just cycle through the groups until you find it but I'm fairly certain its one of the above
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/10%2011%2012_zpsj233kwja.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/10%2011%2012_zpsj233kwja.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/13%2015%2016_zpsjwndnzrz.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/VCDS%20IDLE%20Measuring%20blocks/13%2015%2016_zpsjwndnzrz.png.html)
Doesn't look like 12 or 13 :(
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Nope cos its group 11 :laugh: :laugh:
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Nope cos its group 11 :laugh: :laugh:
Ah ok, but thats on idle, so there wouldn't be any boost surely? I have no idea how to read the figures.
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
Ah ok, so if I do some logs whilst driving and see how they compare? likewise with torque, do some runs and log them and see if the torque is good? is there any way (I know it wont be as accurate as rolling road) to calculate BHP to wheels (then convert to @fly) using the torque figures?
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
Ah ok, so if I do some logs whilst driving and see how they compare? likewise with torque, do some runs and log them and see if the torque is good? is there any way (I know it wont be as accurate as rolling road) to calculate BHP to wheels (then convert to @fly) using the torque figures?
Yup. I always do a minimum of 3 runs and i would do it in 4th gear and nail the throttle from approx 1400rpm. You want to get the turbo working as hard as possible. Keep your foot pinned until the redline
Log your MAF figures too; think thats group 2 or 3
Make sure you are on your private test track obviously :whistle:
Not sure if that's possible and if it is how accurate it would be. I've never tried it :undecided:
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
Ah ok, so if I do some logs whilst driving and see how they compare? likewise with torque, do some runs and log them and see if the torque is good? is there any way (I know it wont be as accurate as rolling road) to calculate BHP to wheels (then convert to @fly) using the torque figures?
Yup. I always do a minimum of 3 runs and i would do it in 4th gear and nail the throttle from approx 1400rpm. You want to get the turbo working as hard as possible. Keep your foot pinned until the redline
Log your MAF figures too; think thats group 2 or 3
Make sure you are on your private test track obviously :whistle:
Not sure if that's possible and if it is how accurate it would be. I've never tried it :undecided:
ok will find a private road to give it a run, from the short bursts I have done (1st and 2nd mainly) it kind of has nothing, then pulls, then hits redline nearly instantly I think, boost seems a tad delayed, then loads, then tails off
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
Ah ok, so if I do some logs whilst driving and see how they compare? likewise with torque, do some runs and log them and see if the torque is good? is there any way (I know it wont be as accurate as rolling road) to calculate BHP to wheels (then convert to @fly) using the torque figures?
Yup. I always do a minimum of 3 runs and i would do it in 4th gear and nail the throttle from approx 1400rpm. You want to get the turbo working as hard as possible. Keep your foot pinned until the redline
Log your MAF figures too; think thats group 2 or 3
Make sure you are on your private test track obviously :whistle:
Not sure if that's possible and if it is how accurate it would be. I've never tried it :undecided:
ok will find a private road to give it a run, from the short bursts I have done (1st and 2nd mainly) it kind of has nothing, then pulls, then hits redline nearly instantly I think, boost seems a tad delayed, then loads, then tails off
That sounds about right. Peak torque should arrive at approx 1900-2000rpm then pull hard to about 3500rpm before tailing off.
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Look at the 2nd and 3rd boxes
2nd box is what the ecu requests and the actual is what the car makes
As you accelerate you will find actual lags behind specified for a few hundred rrpm before converging and then they should be within a couple of mbars
If actual never meets specified then you have a boost leak or boost problem
:smiley:
Ah ok, so if I do some logs whilst driving and see how they compare? likewise with torque, do some runs and log them and see if the torque is good? is there any way (I know it wont be as accurate as rolling road) to calculate BHP to wheels (then convert to @fly) using the torque figures?
Yup. I always do a minimum of 3 runs and i would do it in 4th gear and nail the throttle from approx 1400rpm. You want to get the turbo working as hard as possible. Keep your foot pinned until the redline
Log your MAF figures too; think thats group 2 or 3
Make sure you are on your private test track obviously :whistle:
Not sure if that's possible and if it is how accurate it would be. I've never tried it :undecided:
ok will find a private road to give it a run, from the short bursts I have done (1st and 2nd mainly) it kind of has nothing, then pulls, then hits redline nearly instantly I think, boost seems a tad delayed, then loads, then tails off
That sounds about right. Peak torque should arrive at approx 1900-2000rpm then pull hard to about 3500rpm before tailing off.
Ah thats ok then was worried turbo wasn't lasting long enough lol
do you know what this is?
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0264_zpsmvttzzxs.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Engine/IMG_0264_zpsmvttzzxs.jpg.html)
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Can you get a wider angle of it??
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Def need a wider angle. Wheres it located?
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(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/dec18d20-0fb2-4d39-83e5-e1b62cb706fb_zpsv6ockwuk.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/dec18d20-0fb2-4d39-83e5-e1b62cb706fb_zpsv6ockwuk.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/4c7e147c-c9f2-451f-95c7-b51cddec0740_zps9exovizn.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/4c7e147c-c9f2-451f-95c7-b51cddec0740_zps9exovizn.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/5a06a23d-63c6-44f3-8bf6-8d055d38aed8_zpsa41cqxay.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/White%20Connector/5a06a23d-63c6-44f3-8bf6-8d055d38aed8_zpsa41cqxay.jpg.html)
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Thats a breather. So must be a flap to open close it when needed.
What a strange setup.
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Thats a breather. So must be a flap to open close it when needed.
What a strange setup.
So its meant to look like that? Not meant to be connected to anything?
Also...
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Instruments/instruments%20fault_zpszxq43xot.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Instruments/instruments%20fault_zpszxq43xot.png.html)
can anyone point me into what this means, then can fix the fuel gauge issue lol
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Should be connected id have though. Check round the boost pipe. Wont be far if its there.
Fuel sender working or not.
Sound like a wire broke making it short to ground
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Should be connected id have though. Check round the boost pipe. Wont be far if its there.
Fuel sender working or not.
Sound like a wire broke making it short to ground
Oh don't like the sound of broken wires :(
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Might not be when you lift carpet. Could be the connection loose
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Might not be when you lift carpet. Could be the connection loose
Ok will have a look. The garage said they didnt even notice the float (im guessing this is the sender) even being on the fuel pump, would this cause the same error?
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Floats in tank. Should be on the lift pump. 4 torques hold it in place.
Once you have the lift pump out youll see it. Might be the wire in there
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Floats in tank. Should be on the lift pump. 4 torques hold it in place.
Once you have the lift pump out youll see it. Might be the wire in there
Yeh they have removed the pump under the back seat and they said they didnt notice it, but I will get them to double check during the week. Is it the big plug that goes into the fuel pump under the seat that might be the issue? if so is there any way of testing for a short?
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I think its canbus so cant do it with a multimetre.
Could be the actuall wiring inside the pump, where the sender shoild be. If you didnt have a sender am sure the guage will always read empty.
Of full dependent on how it works
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I think its canbus so cant do it with a multimetre.
Could be the actuall wiring inside the pump, where the sender shoild be. If you didnt have a sender am sure the guage will always read empty.
Of full dependent on how it works
ok will see if they can have a look at it again, see whats going on, is really annoying though as electrical issues can be a nightmare to find.
Do you know what the other fault code means?
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Sometimes it cant communicate with the ecm.
Couldnt tell you where to start there. Mayne the the earths around the body. Especially those near the battery
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Sometimes it cant communicate with the ecm.
Couldnt tell you where to start there. Mayne the the earths around the body. Especially those near the battery
Have reset the codes, will take it for a run tomorrow and do a full autoscan thing and see what it throws up this time, never had those 2 before, even though I have always had the fuel gauge issue, I'm thinking maybe someone at the garage(s) maybe flicked the ignition on with the fuel pump unplugged and it stored the code.
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Possible mate
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When doing the autoscan on VCDS the engine should be running right? Not just ignition on, and obviously not whilst driving, but to get all the information the engine should be running, I was told be a friend that it should be run with just the ignition on but this doesn't sound right.
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Scan for fault codes - ignition on; engine off
Live logs - ignition on , engine running, driving (ideally using a passenger to hold the laptop)
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As above. Faults ign on. Live data running and driving.
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ok, just remember when I used to have vectra's a few years back I would get speed sensor errors and some others due to low voltage and such if the engine wasn't running.
what does the 'Central Control Module for Central Convenience' do?
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Monitors your central locking modules in the doors
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Monitors your central locking modules in the doors
It has
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.LBL
Controller: 1C0 959 799 B
Component: 1Y Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 01271
VCID: 361FA5DB015F
2 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
37-00 - Faulty
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
but all central locking is working
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Also moniters the electric mirrors. Windows etc. All thats in the car.
If its playing up might have some water in it.
Dont know if mk4 platforms suffer from damage that way but if it does ive got one sat on my kitchen side as I bought the wrong one for the passat
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Also moniters the electric mirrors. Windows etc. All thats in the car.
If its playing up might have some water in it.
Dont know if mk4 platforms suffer from damage that way but if it does ive got one sat on my kitchen side as I bought the wrong one for the passat
ok, all windows, mirrors, locks etc seem to work fine (passenger/boot only work when close to car, guess thats battery related rather than module), why the fault, or could this be an old fault? pretty sure they said they cleared all codes but might do a complete code clear later and scan again, until today have just done scans on the engine and instruments rather than using autoscan.
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Could be an old code.
I get the ccm code on mineyet its been cleared many times. I think its because mine isnt coded in as its been replaced
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ok cleared all codes, only one coming back now is the radio (haven't tried since locking/unlocking door but as that works not too fussed at the moment)
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.LBL
Controller: 1J0 035 186 D
Component: RADIO SON 0004
Coding: 01403
Shop #: WSC 01271
VCID: 263F759BD1FF
2 Faults Found:
00852 - Loudspeaker(s); Front
36-00 - Open Circuit
00853 - Loudspeaker(s); Rear
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
I have done a quick log (don't think I ever hit red line but was hard to tell as was on a public road so was sticking within the speed limit) how do I attach the csv file for someone to check, not sure how much use it will be though as like I say, I never redlined
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2 speakers arnt working.
Dont know how to attach the file.
Cant you open up the file and screen shot the logs and post up
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(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block10_zps9ie7wmop.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block10_zps9ie7wmop.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block11_zpsizyoocyl.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block11_zpsizyoocyl.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block20_zpsluvtuzza.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block20_zpsluvtuzza.png.html)
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2 speakers arnt working.
Dont know how to attach the file.
Cant you open up the file and screen shot the logs and post up
I know the front drivers speaker doesnt work and the passenger front is intermittent
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What do you wanna know from graphs. You hit 350ft bl of torgue. Id definately say its a pd150
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What do you wanna know from graphs. You hit 350ft bl of torgue. Id definately say its a pd150
Just if everything looks ok, like is it boosting when it should, as much as it should etc
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Looks alright to me. But ive not got another 150pd to compare the graphs to.
Specified inlet pressure and actual are very close together wich would say the engine is doing what itshould be.
It tails off and picks back up but im guessing thats when changing gear or haveing to slow down
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Looks alright to me. But ive not got another 150pd to compare the graphs to.
Specified inlet pressure and actual are very close together wich would say the engine is doing what itshould be.
It tails off and picks back up but im guessing thats when changing gear or haveing to slow down
Yeh had to slow down a lot (and change gear a fair bit) as I don't know of a long enough quiet road to test on :(
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You need to do one constant run in 4th gear and just graph that
On the face of it things look ok but just post constant runs from 1500rpm to the redline (or as close as possible) and only that; makes it easier to read! :)
If you can't do it in 4th gear then 3rd will be fine
And take the torque figure with a pinch of salt; standard they are approx 250lbs ft
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You need to do one constant run in 4th gear and just graph that
On the face of it things look ok but just post constant runs from 1500rpm to the redline (or as close as possible) and only that; makes it easier to read! :)
If you can't do it in 4th gear then 3rd will be fine
And take the torque figure with a pinch of salt; standard they are approx 250lbs ft
not really the roads around here to get that kind of data :(
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http://www.filehosting.org/file/details/564472/LOG-01-010-011-020.CSV
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You need to do one constant run in 4th gear and just graph that
On the face of it things look ok but just post constant runs from 1500rpm to the redline (or as close as possible) and only that; makes it easier to read! :)
If you can't do it in 4th gear then 3rd will be fine
And take the torque figure with a pinch of salt; standard they are approx 250lbs ft
Still impressive for a oldish diesel.
Settled its Def a 150 though
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ok, so this is my 3rd gear logs, didn't make it to redline as ran out of road
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2010_zpsngiwfwo3.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2010_zpsngiwfwo3.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block10_zpscni8anym.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block10_zpscni8anym.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2011_zpsjdgqgk6a.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2011_zpsjdgqgk6a.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block11_zpspccshyxs.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block11_zpspccshyxs.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2020_zpssu7x0nc7.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/Block%2020_zpssu7x0nc7.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block20_zpssvprhwb7.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/block20_zpssvprhwb7.png.html)
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And here are some new pics now its on the road. Needs new front wings and a good wash.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0230_zpsa9kfxkr4.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0230_zpsa9kfxkr4.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0231_zps3vprddgv.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0231_zps3vprddgv.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0232_zpsqk4xsk8d.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0232_zpsqk4xsk8d.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0233_zpsabtsbycs.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0233_zpsabtsbycs.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0234_zpsp9hrw8x5.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0234_zpsp9hrw8x5.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0235_zpsueojiozq.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0235_zpsueojiozq.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0236_zpsabolf1nt.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0236_zpsabolf1nt.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0237_zps9idagqai.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0237_zps9idagqai.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0238_zpsk82hg4lo.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0238_zpsk82hg4lo.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0239_zpsgiarbddo.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0239_zpsgiarbddo.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0240_zpsqwedcfmw.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0240_zpsqwedcfmw.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0241_zpsjitz3y5o.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0241_zpsjitz3y5o.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0242_zpscvxzmu3b.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0242_zpscvxzmu3b.jpg.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0243_zpsvfa73lbf.jpg) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/IMG_0243_zpsvfa73lbf.jpg.html)
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Thats a nice colour
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Thats a nice colour
Yeh its nice :) has a few scratches so will get it sorted when money allows. Its now getting there mechanically, its starting first time now, still get a puff of white smoke but its just that, a puff, nothing prolonged or anything just a single white cloud. Do the 3rd gear tables/charts mean anything in relation to turbo health?
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There near to specified all the time. Which to me (I dont know alot about the graghs)says all is good
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There near to specified all the time. Which to me (I dont know alot about the graghs)says all is good
ok thats good :) took fuel pump out and the sender is jammed, wont budge at all so looks like will need replacing. Can anyone confirm if all diesels used the same senders?
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They do yes.
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They do yes.
ok will see whats at scrappy then :)
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Im sure all mk4 platform have same sender. So as long as its a 4 wire plug on top of pump sender should be the same
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Im sure all mk4 platform have same sender. So as long as its a 4 wire plug on top of pump sender should be the same
had a look online using part number from ebay and cant find which models it fits, some ebay sellers include the 150 in their list others dont, is annoying
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Just grab sender out of a mk4 tdi. Aslong as the plugs the same. Youll be OK id have thought.
Cant see them wiring it different
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With the garage not working today I thought I would take a look for myself, removed the black metal cover and noticed the arrow on the fuel pump wasnt lined up with the screw hole, so, loosened it and twisted it to line up, tightened it up and turned on ignition and now the gauge is working. Think I will either do jobs myself or take it somewhere else as although its free getting it done at work, they dont seem to be giving it the attention they should and missing simple things.
But all good now and with no cost, so I'm happy :)
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Strange. Wouldnt think that would affect the sender but good job non the less
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Strange. Wouldnt think that would affect the sender but good job non the less
I'm guessing the fuel tank isn't a big rectangle so if its not in the right position is touching something giving it a false reading, but not sure. Works now though :)
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Maybe. The mk4 pumps clip into the bottom of tank if memory serves
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Maybe. The mk4 pumps clip into the bottom of tank if memory serves
nah through the top under the back seat :)
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Yeh. Dnt often pull the pumps to remember. Mk3s twist in to stop them moving then go in the top the same
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ok, so as the car seems to be running ok for now (the issue with first start has come back, just need to press accelerator and starts ok) what cheapish upgrades should I be looking to do. Obviously I want to replace the wings when some in the right colour pop up at the right price, and replace some of the interior plastics as some parts are looking a bit aged. Ordered the bits to swap out the stock stereo so thats a job for next weekend, anything else I should be thinking of (I know it would probs be wiser to save for cambelt change but thinking if there are a few cheap mods/upgrades to do in the meantime will crack on with them).
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Replace vac hoses with silicone.
Egr delete pipes are fairly cheap
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Replace vac hoses with silicone.
Egr delete pipes are fairly cheap
will I not need to get the EGR mapped out if I delete it? what gains are to be had fitting a delete kit?
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Stops the egr gunking the Inlet up with crap. Will need mapping out but can keep the light out with vcd when it comes to mot.
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Stops the egr gunking the Inlet up with crap. Will need mapping out but can keep the light out with vcd when it comes to mot.
ok but no performance gains? will the light not just come back on during MOT?
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Takes around 30 miles. Well theres a little bit as the inlet will be fully clean and without exhaust gas mixed with oil.
Youll maybe be suprised at how clogged it is
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You could try fitting the gasket from the Ibiza 160 diesel
Its essentially a blanking plate but with a small hole in it. Cost about £3 from a dealer
Cheaper than a remap until you can save your pennies for an egr delete kit and a remap :smiley:
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You could try fitting the gasket from the Ibiza 160 diesel
Its essentially a blanking plate but with a small hole in it. Cost about £3 from a dealer
Cheaper than a remap until you can save your pennies for an egr delete kit and a remap :smiley:
Thats a top tip
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You could try fitting the gasket from the Ibiza 160 diesel
Its essentially a blanking plate but with a small hole in it. Cost about £3 from a dealer
Cheaper than a remap until you can save your pennies for an egr delete kit and a remap :smiley:
ok, that sounds good, will this affect anything that might throw up an EML?
Do you have a part number? have looked online and cant seem to find any that don't list themselves as 'blanking' even though they have a tiny hole in the middle
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You could try fitting the gasket from the Ibiza 160 diesel
Its essentially a blanking plate but with a small hole in it. Cost about £3 from a dealer
Cheaper than a remap until you can save your pennies for an egr delete kit and a remap :smiley:
ok, that sounds good, will this affect anything that might throw up an EML?
Do you have a part number? have looked online and cant seem to find any that don't list themselves as 'blanking' even though they have a tiny hole in the middle
It's designed not to throw an EML but I can't guarantee that
Nope sorry. A Google search will throw it up though. Try Seat Ibiza egr gasket or along those lines
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You could try fitting the gasket from the Ibiza 160 diesel
Its essentially a blanking plate but with a small hole in it. Cost about £3 from a dealer
Cheaper than a remap until you can save your pennies for an egr delete kit and a remap :smiley:
ok, that sounds good, will this affect anything that might throw up an EML?
Do you have a part number? have looked online and cant seem to find any that don't list themselves as 'blanking' even though they have a tiny hole in the middle
It's designed not to throw an EML but I can't guarantee that
Nope sorry. A Google search will throw it up though. Try Seat Ibiza egr gasket or along those lines
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gasket-Cable-AGR-valve-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-ALTEA-AROSA-CORDOBA-EXEO-IBIZA-INCH/371566253464?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36381%26meid%3D79c7e72893cc4562b2ed5394adff096e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301886387557 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gasket-Cable-AGR-valve-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-ALTEA-AROSA-CORDOBA-EXEO-IBIZA-INCH/371566253464?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36381%26meid%3D79c7e72893cc4562b2ed5394adff096e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301886387557) looks like a pretty big hole or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-EXEO-IBIZA-ALTEA-LEON-TOLEDO-ALHAMBRA-EGR-BLANKING-PLATE-1-5MM-STAINLESS-HD/331800987224?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36381%26meid%3Dd7879094600744a4af4d7f9031321983%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152012828266 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-EXEO-IBIZA-ALTEA-LEON-TOLEDO-ALHAMBRA-EGR-BLANKING-PLATE-1-5MM-STAINLESS-HD/331800987224?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36381%26meid%3Dd7879094600744a4af4d7f9031321983%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152012828266) with a smaller hole?
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2nd link. First one is just a standard gasket :smiley:
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2nd link. First one is just a standard gasket :smiley:
Ok might order one of them then. Will try to remove the inlet manifold and give that a clean first.
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2nd link. First one is just a standard gasket :smiley:
Ok might order one of them then. Will try to remove the inlet manifold and give that a clean first.
Clean both at the same time otherwise you won't really see the benefit of doing just the manifold. EGR is only held with on with 3 bolts :smiley:
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I might haveto do this instead of a delete pipe. Keep it looming factory
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2nd link. First one is just a standard gasket :smiley:
Ok might order one of them then. Will try to remove the inlet manifold and give that a clean first.
Clean both at the same time otherwise you won't really see the benefit of doing just the manifold. EGR is only held with on with 3 bolts :smiley:
EGR is pretty new I think, less than 8 months old
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My biggest issue at the momen is the MPG seems low (or maybe my expectations were too high). I did 11 miles, mostly 60~70mph dual carriageway driving, and TRIP said average of 40mpg and then 20 miles of mixed road driving and TRIP read average of 32mpg, was just hoping for more I guess being a diesel. Also it only feels like the turbo is helping from around 1700/1900-2500/3000 RPM, either side of that it feels non existent. It also doesn't like low revs, and seems very noisy (like a rumbling) could this be the DMF (or SMF as it has been suggested this might of been changed/converted)?
Another problem, which has been there from day 1 is, the car struggles to start when cold. It sounds like it wants to start but doesn't, or at least it revs a little then cuts out, or you just hear the starter motor noise but doesn't start at all. 9/10 it will start if you have your foot on the accelerator whilst trying to start it, it starts, revs are around 800-950 (even with foot hard down on accelerator) for about a second or 2 before it starts to rev.
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Mpg seems OK compared to mypassat tdi. Which is around 37 average.
Still do t have a clue with that starting though. Glow plugs was discussed?
If you disconect the cacum from the egr does it start and rev?
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Mpg seems OK compared to mypassat tdi. Which is around 37 average.
Still do t have a clue with that starting though. Glow plugs was discussed?
If you disconect the cacum from the egr does it start and rev?
Yeh had new glow plugs. Was a bit gutted as read people getting 55+ MPG from theirs and I can't get anywhere near that even with conservative driving. What hits me the most is pulling away, from 1st, 2nd and through to 3rd its between 7mpg and 18mpg if I'm lucky, its only when I get to 4th I can hit 30+mpg
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Hmmm. Try unplug that vac see if it changes or not. Unplugged the butterfly should stay open so would rule if there a problem there. Might also account for the low mpg
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Hmmm. Try unplug that vac see if it changes or not. Unplugged the butterfly should stay open so would rule if there a problem there. Might also account for the low mpg
Where is the plug? Will it throw up an EML?
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Itsthe vac line that goes to the egr. Itll throw one eventually like we siscussed but not for the fault finding of cold start
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Itsthe vac line that goes to the egr. Itll throw one eventually like we siscussed but not for the fault finding of cold start
Ah the hose or the electric plug (if there is one)? If the hose, will stuff come out of it (do I need to tuck it somewhere or put it in a bottle to catch stuff)?
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The little vac hose. And nothing will come out. There a plug further back on a valve but you dont have to unplug it
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The little vac hose. And nothing will come out. There a plug further back on a valve but you dont have to unplug it
OK, what does this hose do? as in, if this lets it start first time without pressing on the accelerator, whats the issue coz it has had a new EGR in the last 8 months
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The butterfly not working properly. If you manually operaate the lever it should stall the car when in the xlosed position as no air can get to the engine.
So if its sticking nearly closed it wont rev up until the butterfly operate
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The butterfly not working properly. If you manually operaate the lever it should stall the car when in the xlosed position as no air can get to the engine.
So if its sticking nearly closed it wont rev up until the butterfly operate
I thought blanking the EGR meant it was always closed :undecided:
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Its hard to explain. If you start your golf up and close the thing the vac goes into itll try stall the car.
So alternatively you could actually see if at first start up there is any movement on said arm.
You right about the egr though. This might actually not be egr. Id have to go look at my passat to see
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Its hard to explain. If you start your golf up and close the thing the vac goes into itll try stall the car.
So alternatively you could actually see if at first start up there is any movement on said arm.
You right about the egr though. This might actually not be egr. Id have to go look at my passat to see
From a quick hunt around google, air in the fuel system causes poor cold starts and using accelerator can overcome this most of the time. And as we know, there was an air issue with my fuel lines previously so possibly still some in there. Is there a way to purge/bleed the fuel lines?
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If theres air in the first start its getting in after running has stopped. Was running air should be gone. So there would seem air is getting in the system. Maybe a clip or slight nick in a pipe
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If theres air in the first start its getting in after running has stopped. Was running air should be gone. So there would seem air is getting in the system. Maybe a clip or slight nick in a pipe
Not got a clue where to start looking :( The hissing from the fuel filter I'm 99% sure is gone since they put the hoses on the right way at the pump, I'm thinking it still in the system rather than still getting in, maybe in the filter?
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Should habe pirged out by now. You could fill filter with diesel. That would eliminate air in there
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OK so managed to log 100% throttle in 3rd gear, nearly to redline (was redline on dash but figures dont hit 5k on log :( ) logging block 08, 11 and 20 (1 run just tidied up the table)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2008%20Table_zps1yiwgdbx.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2008%20Table_zps1yiwgdbx.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2008_zpsmribmydm.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2008_zpsmribmydm.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2011%20Table_zps66ywr9ki.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2011%20Table_zps66ywr9ki.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2011_zpso5lalxa5.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2011_zpso5lalxa5.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2020%20Table_zps7lyahct7.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2020%20Table_zps7lyahct7.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2020_zpszjbycn3c.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/Block%2020_zpszjbycn3c.png.html)
hopefully one of you will tell me everything looks ok :embarrassed:
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Looks good to me mate :smiley:
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Looks good to me mate :smiley:
wasn't sure about the boost as its not a smooth curve like the requested amount is.
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Dont think itll ever be unless it was fresh out the factory and even then its debatable
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Dont think itll ever be unless it was fresh out the factory and even then its debatable
ok thats good news. I assume the torque values are not 100% accurate as it peaks higher than what the 320 Nm figure I read it was meant to be stock (peaks at 354 Nm)
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No. Its gues work id suspect
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OK, following on from the fact torque isn't 100% accurate but is a rough guide, I calculated HP, again not 100% accurate but is a rough guide and seems like power is as it should be. I know RR is the only way to know and even that isn't 100% as there are several variables (think the only 100% way is engine out and tested @ fly?)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/HP_zpskqck4uy2.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/HP_zpskqck4uy2.png.html)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt224/paradisiac1982/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/HP%20graph_zpsi0czp50l.png) (http://s614.photobucket.com/user/paradisiac1982/media/Golf%20GT%20TDi%20PD150/Logs/3rd%20Gear%203rd%20May/HP%20graph_zpsi0czp50l.png.html)
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OK so used a multimeter on battery, was 12v without engine running, then when turning over dropped to 9v-10v, when running was 14v-15v. Unfortunately I don't know anyone I can borrow a battery off so will take it Halfords for a check. The terminal did seem a bit dirty so will whip them off and clean them up see if that helps. Would be nice if it was just a battery problem. Again when testing it I feel the engine is moving far too much, same on idle so I will try and get a video over the weekend so you can check if its right.
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A battery should be 12.6v am sure when not it use. Should obv drop during cranking. And again Obvously sit near to 14v whem charging.
A bad battery may cause the starting issue but withouthaving it actually checked to make sure its good you wont know
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Ok, so, this is me showing how little I understand about engines. My assume was, turn on ignition, fuel pump pumps fuel to engine, glow plug/coil light comes on until the plugs reach temp and then go off, then turn the key to start car, engine starts. I'm sure there is more to it but thats my basic understanding (I know air/fuel mixture is all done so it can burn to make power too). Now as some of you are aware since day 1 I have had issues with my car, most have been fixed but the starting issue has remained.
I'm not sure if its the warmer weather, coincidence or something else going on, but I would like a possible explanation. Normally coil light goes off in seconds, but......on Wednesday I have left it 30-45 on ignition before trying to start it and it has started every time (about 5 times with gaps ranging from 20 mins to 4 hours), no hesitating, stuttering or anything, just started. Is it possible that although the coil light has gone out the extra time I have left it has still been warming them? Or does the pump still keep pumping the fuel until car is started so leaving it this little bit longer is allowing the fuel to get round properly? Obviously will do the same tomorrow and see if same results, if it works fine, then obviously its 'fixed' and just needs longer before turning over.
Update: Still starting first time without issue, have tried turning over as soon as coil light goes out and it's started every time also without issue, so really not sure why all of a sudden its decided to start working. Any ideas?