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Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: Lordie on 23 April 2021, 15:25
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Hello
I'm looking to buy an OBD11 but wasn't sure which one is best for me as I have no idea what 'long coding' is or if I'll use it etc. The main things I'll use it for is the started tweaks, error code reading, and coding new batteries in.
Are these things that can all be done on the standard 'Next Gen OBD11' ??. I've had a look as the comparison chart on their website but don't really understand it and can't find much info online. So thanks for any help
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Just buy the standard one and pay to upgrade in the app if you need it
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Pro lets you do more including coding the battery BUT buy the starter pack and then the Pro activation as it is always cheaper. You do not need all the Credits they try to trick you into buying as you get 5 a day free anyway. :grin:
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Buy the next gen pro.
Why would I open the app daily and give them my location or watch silly commercials for credits?
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Some contradicting advice there !!
Just buy the standard it’s all you ever use!
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Get basic and if you ever need long coding, upgrade to Pro. It's cheaper to do it like that anyway.
The next gen dongle is only needed if you use iPhone. If you have android, save some cash.
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Exactly what is needed for coding a new (replacement) battery?
As a total OBD11 novice, i'm wondering whether or not to have a go. I've no wish to randomly dabble in things I don't understand.
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I've seen numerous people on here lately saying you need Pro to code the battery. You do NOT.
Pro is better, yes, but for scanning codes, a new battery, you don't need it, so save your 20 quid
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I've seen numerous people on here lately saying you need Pro to code the battery. You do NOT.
Pro is better, yes, but for scanning codes, a new battery, you don't need it, so save your 20 quid
Really? You can't use adaptations without the pro licence and there is no App for the battery. How can you code it with the basic unit?
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I'm glad I posted this :grin::grin:. This is exactly the reason, I have no idea what one I need for the battery and there's very little information online
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I'm glad I posted this :grin::grin:. This is exactly the reason, I have no idea what one I need for the battery and there's very little information online
Snap!
I'm wondering whether a Carista would do the trick? I don't want to re-code loads of random things, I only want to code a new battery.
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Did a quick Google search and seems like Carista now does battery coding as of Dec 2020. Although I'm not sure which model Carita you needs. Also torn between OBD11 Next Gen and Carista for use on iOS
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I got OBDEleven Pro (next gen dongle which supposedly can support other brands in the future too) in addition to VCDS and VCP.
I'd never use any of their apps, more often then not they go wrong. Just code things manually, for this you need the pro addition.
It takes all of 5 minutes to manually code in a battery.
It's only 4 adaptation channels (battery manufacturer - irrelevant really; battery technology - efb, agm, wet; battery capacity and battery serial number) after all.
If you fit the same battery type with the same capacity even only just one, the serial number will require a change (adding a 1 will do the trick).
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I've seen numerous people on here lately saying you need Pro to code the battery. You do NOT.
Pro is better, yes, but for scanning codes, a new battery, you don't need it, so save your 20 quid
Really? You can't use adaptations without the pro licence and there is no App for the battery. How can you code it with the basic unit?
I think the adaptations for the battery you can alter without the Pro. I mean, maybe my app glitched and let me do it. But I don't have Pro, and I've done the battery a couple of months ago. Gen 1 unit
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I think the adaptations for the battery you can alter without the Pro. I mean, maybe my app glitched and let me do it. But I don't have Pro, and I've done the battery a couple of months ago. Gen 1 unit
Only reason I queried it was my mate has one without the pro Licence and he said he couldn't do it and asked me to use mine to do it.
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I've messaged OBDeleven to find out the answer to this debate :grin:
Thanks for the tip on buying a standard one and upgrading after to pro after if needed. Good way to save a few quid!
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As far as I know, there is no debate to be had! :laugh: But yeah, the later upgrade route is the best way to go. Can get the Gen 1 unit off Amazon if that's what you're after
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Unfortunately I have an iPhone and iPad so can't get the cheapest option :grin:
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I messaged them and they seem to say you need the Pro to code a new batteries. I'm still going to buy the standard as it's cheaper to buy that and then a pro pass instead of both in one go :tongue:. I'll be sure to test it out and see if battery coding works on the standard and update this thread. Would be good if it does work on the standard as then that'll be enough for my OBD11 uses and I won't need to spend any more money
Does anyone know if I'm going to have to pay import charges on it, as it's comes from Lithuania?.
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I messaged them and they seem to say you need the Pro to code a new batteries. I'm still going to buy the standard as it's cheaper to buy that and then a pro pass instead of both in one go :tongue:. I'll be sure to test it out and see if battery coding works on the standard and update this thread. Would be good if it does work on the standard as then that'll be enough for my OBD11 uses and I won't need to spend any more money
Does anyone know if I'm going to have to pay import charges on it, as it's comes from Lithuania?.
The reason it came from Lithuania was why I bought from Amazon, that's right, I remember now. The second gen is on amazon as well?
Interesting what they say about needing Pro to code batteries. I'll have to double check mine to see if the settings actually took! :laugh:
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Buy it from Amazon.... much easier.
Mine came super quick because its covered by Prime.
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I literally order from Amazon every week/multiple times a week so would prefer that. Shame it's not a little less than the current price of £75
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I messaged them and they seem to say you need the Pro to code a new batteries. I'm still going to buy the standard as it's cheaper to buy that and then a pro pass instead of both in one go :tongue:. I'll be sure to test it out and see if battery coding works on the standard and update this thread. Would be good if it does work on the standard as then that'll be enough for my OBD11 uses and I won't need to spend any more money
Does anyone know if I'm going to have to pay import charges on it, as it's comes from Lithuania?.
I bought mine (standard kit and pro activation code) direct from OBDeleven. I took a while to be delivered (there was a random 2 day delay at a Heathrow based logistics hub) but no additional import charges.
It's a good bit of kit but I've not used it too much to be honest; just switched of the headlamp washers, switched off the 'open door with ignition' warning and coded a replacement battery.
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Other than the dashboards and diagnostics, that does tend to be the way with all these devices and apps (e.g. inc Carista and others). You use it to make the changes you want, then it sits unused.
It was different in years gone by when there was a more gradual release of new apps and coding discoveries, but it's all pretty well known these days, so you make your changes in the first hour and you're done.
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Right, but it's also a code reader. Useful to have around. I'd recommend everyone buy one
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It's certainly a useful thing to always have around. When you need it, it's priceless and will save you lots of money (new battery coding for example
What I'm worried about is import charges since Brexit. I messaged the OBD11 team and they seem to say people haven't had any additional import charges but I will have to look it up myself. Some people are getting charged £30 for import items I've heard in the news
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How much is it on Amazon compared to from Lithuania (plus import fees?) Why would you buy it direct?
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It’s around £20 cheaper direct but that doesn’t include delivery
I’ve downloaded the app early and started collecting up some free credits :drool:. What’s the average amount of credits needed for each thing?
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It's certainly a useful thing to always have around. When you need it, it's priceless and will save you lots of money (new battery coding for example
What I'm worried about is import charges since Brexit. I messaged the OBD11 team and they seem to say people haven't had any additional import charges but I will have to look it up myself. Some people are getting charged £30 for import items I've heard in the news
Mine was purchased post Brexit and I had no additional charges to pay.
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How much is it on Amazon compared to from Lithuania (plus import fees?) Why would you buy it direct?
The horror stories that come with Amazon, like the send you a returned unit with no pro code or credits because they’ve already been used
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Most of the simpler 'apps' are 10 credits up to 100 credits for the more complex ones
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Finally ordered one last night. All that time debating if I should wait 1-3 weeks for it to be delivered from aboard and there's a damn option on the OBDeleven website at checkout to get it delivered via Amazon in 5 days (so I can only assume it's dispatched from the UK) for only a few quid extra.
So why would I pay £20 more to get delivery direct from Amazon when I could order from their website but also get it delivered by Amazon for less?. They need to sort their pricing out
Pro upgrade is around £21 on their website with free delivery as it's sent via email. So will try without and upgraded if/when I need it
Thanks for all the awesome help on this thread guy! :cool:
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That's good info Lordie :smiley:
Got my battery swapped at Halfords in the end, but might invest anyway just in case.
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Finally ordered one last night. All that time debating if I should wait 1-3 weeks for it to be delivered from aboard and there's a damn option on the OBDeleven website at checkout to get it delivered via Amazon in 5 days (so I can only assume it's dispatched from the UK) for only a few quid extra.
So why would I pay £20 more to get delivery direct from Amazon when I could order from their website but also get it delivered by Amazon for less?. They need to sort their pricing out
Pro upgrade is around £21 on their website with free delivery as it's sent via email. So will try without and upgraded if/when I need it
Thanks for all the awesome help on this thread guy! :cool:
Raging. I just ordered my OBDeleven android only dongle from Amazon for £45 I think because shipping would take an age from the actual website. Didn't know you could change that option!
I don't even know how much a pro licence is its all confusing.
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My OBD11 just arrived today funnily enough :grin: Will try it on the weekend
Yeah I know, their website isn't the best. It's a great postage option and they don't even advertise it!
I also have no idea why they feel they need to charge you between £20-£30 more for buying from Amazon, stupidly overpriced when compared to their website.
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Amazon charges them money and the goods are in a UK warehouse presumably, so they will have bulk imported them from the EU (thank you again David, Nigel, Theresa and Boris, really can't thank these greatest of politicians Britain's come up with enough) and paid HMRC some money for the favour of allowing the goods into the country.
Likely the website in LT won't charge you tax, and the Latvian packaging employee will be paid considerably less compared to his Amazon UK counterpart.
Mostly it'll be Amazon's listing and payment processing fees that drives the price up.
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So one of the main reasons I bought it is to check the battery charge as my stop/start hasn't been working for quite a while
Can anyone tell me what a normal battery reading on the OBD11 should say please?
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If I buy pro do I still need to pay for tokens to use the "apps"?
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Yes you do, but you can get 'free' credits for logging on and watching videos. I think the limit is 5 per day. You get one credit for just opening the app (only granted once per day)
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Just wondering is there any particular reason why you lads choose OBDeleven over the more traditional VCDS/Vag-Com??
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Price, I considered VCDS as more of a 'Professional' tool whereas OBD11 or equivalent better suited for the casual user that will do most of the things that I would require.
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If I buy pro do I still need to pay for tokens to use the "apps"?
If you want to use the apps, yes. But with Pro, you can use long coding to perform exactly what the apps do, if that's up your street
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Yes you do, but you can get 'free' credits for logging on and watching videos. I think the limit is 5 per day. You get one credit for just opening the app (only granted once per day)
That is absolutely insane. What a rip off.
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Yup, but as sjw says, Pro gives you the ability to do everything that the apps do and more through long coding.
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Just wondering is there any particular reason why you lads choose OBDeleven over the more traditional VCDS/Vag-Com??
expense, obdeleven just need a phone and less than £100, if your only a hobbies no real point spending more, vcds needs a laptop and is £250, ok if your going to use it weekly or monthly then that’s fine, but normally you do the mods and put it away until you get a problem or want something else done, plus you can just leave it in the glovebox,
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Just plugged it in and first of all, it says the battery charger is 11.5v which I very much assume isn't normal.
Not sure if it's worth booking in for a free Halford battery check too?
Also the OBD11 seems to have picked up on a few faults, this is despite the car saying there are zero faults. Is that normal the first time you plug it in? :shocked:
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You can expect a few faults the first time you use OBd11, it seems past faults are stored for reference, even if it is no longer an issue.
If the battery has been low or disconnected at any time, this can bring on minor faults, which need clearing to get a true summary of how the car is running.
Clear the codes and rescan once a week or so, to see if you have a recurring code and the 1-6 rating of importance.
Good luck!
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Also it’s not reading the battery voltage, it’s reading the car voltage, if you get what I mean, and some of the faults will be intermittent from stuff like wheel spinning, or the can bus misreading a signal
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Always connect a charger when using OBD Eleven or other diag tools.
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Always connect a charger when using OBD Eleven or other diag tools.
Jesus H Christ, yeah, if you're going to be out there hours
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I was probably out there with it plugged in for 5 min. What I plan to do is test it straight after I drive it next instead of parked on my drive. Either way, I assume 11.5v is not normal and too low?
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I was probably out there with it plugged in for 5 min. What I plan to do is test it straight after I drive it next instead of parked on my drive. Either way, I assume 11.5v is not normal and too low?
Yes, I believe that's much lower than what you want
5 minutes will be fine
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yeah, too low. Mine won't start if it's that low :sad:
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Just went out today 15 min drive there and 15 min back. Checked on the drive when I got back and voltage on the app said 13.4V this time.
Despite that, the stop/start didn't kick in once but bout 6 months ago when I used to make the same drive it would kick in about half or three quarters of the way there or back
Edit// Also my car did this weird again for the 3rd time which I've mentioned on here before. When I reverse, stop, and put the car in neutral, the car turns the engine off and then it doesn't come back on when I press the clutch in. The screen says to turn the key to get the engine back on. Maybe related to the potentially dodgy battery messing with the stop/start?. But then why would the stop/start only work after reversing and then not restart the engine?. I'm so confused
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I would say your battery is on its way out.
Mine has not worked for a similar amount of time, even when having just come off the charger and being fully charged.
The battery monitor seems to be quite complex and as it is sensing that the battery is not 100% it disables the S/S, a billy bonus some would say!