GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: jamie16v on 10 April 2010, 22:14
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here`s what i bought.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190377113885&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
so far i have neatly cut a big chunk out of my crash bar and cut out the middle grill section of my bumper it all looks neat and as though its going to fit nicely. just waiting on my piping kit at the moment but thats going to be the easy bit. will take pics once its all done and give you my opinion if it matters.. bottom line is, yes the bumper and crash bar will need cutting but it`s not all bad.. it looks really neat so far and can`t wait till its plumbed in to see if it makes a difference.
at the end of the day i`m happy already as its cost me just under £200 and some work/learning.
opinions welcome once it`s fitted! :wink:
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i just fitted one of those today :grin:
i now know why people say buy the forge one
i cut my bar out etc then i had to plumb in a pipe for the map sensor which did not fit anywhere then the pipe which came out the top of the turbo had a fitting for recirulating valve but never had a take off for the other pipe then had to cut loads off my bumper and the end grilles wont fit in as the pipes come out to far,but in all fairness i did not take too much time on the bumper as i have a r32 bumper in the sprayers so going to try and get that one to fit better but all in all very cheap
intercooler kit £134
map sensor pipe £34
so just over £160 aint bad at all but i would recomend a r32 bumper as they seem to have more room behind them
anyway good luck fella
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will be keeping my eye on this on how you progress etc and your comments :wink:
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where the hell did you find the whole kit for £134?... it wasnt that one that went for £115 second hand was it?..
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ok i lied £135.21
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400107945113&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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:evil: Nice one!
Nice to see a people trying a different manufactors, most people sticking with the well named forge one. Looking forward to hearing how it goes, keep us posted mate!
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i havent had the pipework deliverd yet but as i have the day off work i thought i would make a start...
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300049.jpg)
so, to make room i started chopping bits out of my crash bar with an angle grinder.... and drilling the two holes for the mounting bolts..
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300070.jpg)
i then trial fitted the bumper to see what needed removing to make it all fit..
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300071.jpg) i decided that all the middle grill needed to come way and i used the grills edge step as a cutting guide some bits also have to be removed from the side vents to make room for the pipework.
yes, i know things look a little rough at the moment but the detail will come afterwards and most of it wont be seen anyway..
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300072.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300073.jpg)
here`s how it looks so far without the pipework, should be arriving on tuesday but wont have time to fit it until friday :sad:
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300074.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300075.jpg)
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Looks good. I used an IC nearly double the size of that so my life was made harder :P
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Looks good. I used an IC nearly double the size of that so my life was made harder :P
i bet it was, this was quite tight, well plenty of room but it would only work where it actually sits.. :tongue:
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Looks good will be interested to see how you get on with it :cool:
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looks good. i got one from ebay but the pipe work was quite a bit out :sad:
an know it lives in the shed :laugh: :laugh:
not to put a downer on it for you. let us no how you get on tho.
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hmm...lol how much do you want for your pipework?...
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thats looking good atm :afro: can't wait to see the pipework fitted i take it your running it as per how the forge one goes albeit one side running to the rear of the fmic/radiator ? if so i'm going to be intrested in how you do it and may go the same way as i notice yours is with the std bumper :afro:
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one pipe will run either side of the intercooler, one straight to the inlet via the old route and then the other on the opposite direction towards the gearbox and up past the airbox then around the head then onto the turbo..
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Remember to keep the pipe as straight as possible (Like a car on a motorway, the straighter, the faster you can go) and the shortest length possible, Try not to use hardly any silicone pipework, you want solid pipework throughout if possible and double clamp any silicone pipework used with mikalor clamps.
If your pipework looks like anaconda then you'll get increased turbo lag.
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well, i`m going to be using the supplied pipework.. nice and easy. it looks o.k to me but then im no expert..
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Quick question, why avoid silicone?
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i think he means because silicone can expand under boost and therefore give you more lag, if you use solid pipe then there`s less room for expanion thus giving the boost easier run to the manifold.
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pipework arrived this morning, and not in perfect condition.. a few scatches on one of the pipes and the weld for the flange that goes to the DV looks rough on the inside but its solid anyway.. i will either fit it tonight or tomorrow night depending on how i feel and take pics of my progress...
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Looks good so far but try ad keep it so the side bumper grills can go back on.
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Looks good so far but try ad keep it so the side bumper grills can go back on.
lol.. that`s the plan.. cheers mate.. :smiley:
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Not sure if you all know but you can move the radiator back a few cm's to make more room which means no cutting of the bumper, just did it on my mates car, bumper went straight on with no cutting
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how did you move the radiator back? was that hard to do?
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interesting, wish i knew this before i started, but then i used the crash bar as a mounting point and couldnt afford to make up any other brackets so was the only way for me.. :lipsrsealed:
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i had to get some brakets made up to fix the intercoole but i had to take s**tloads of the bumber off to get it back on even had to make the holes bigger, but if i can move the radiator back ill get another bumper so i can have the vent grills back on.
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heres mine
(http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/107/car1.jpg) (http://img541.imageshack.us/i/car1.jpg/)
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well, its all fitted and up and running now.
what i have noticed so far is a slight loss in boost, intake temperatures are a lot lower which is a bonus and i am noticing a 3-4 mpg advantage..
im not sure if this needs to be set up on a RR now though.
i will take pics later of the install to see what you guys think..
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well, its all fitted and up and running now.
what i have noticed so far is a slight loss in boost, intake temperatures are a lot lower which is a bonus and i am noticing a 3-4 mpg advantage..
im not sure if this needs to be set up on a RR now though.
i will take pics later of the install to see what you guys think..
A remap won't reduce lag, however you will be able to push more due to the more dense and cooler air into the engine aswell as aim for a more aggressive map for a k03, where you start to run richer and richer up the rev scale with the load to keep the turbo cool whilst maxing out the k03. Be intresting to see how the IC has effected your current power output.
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to be honest, i havent really noticed a power increase, im not sure if my forge DV is leaking any boost.. i can blow through it and a little air will get past it.. is there a fix for this or what :tongue:?.. i think i should try my old Dv.
i am getting about 11 to 12 psi at the moment..
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Need pics!
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Need pics!
+1 x 10 :grin:
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Quick question, why avoid silicone?
Ok more clearly wrote: Use alloy/metal piping in a solid piece for as much as you can (boost psi wont blow through it), If your using 20 silicone joiners and bends, you'll have potential leaks everywhere and it'll be blowing off all the time. Remapped 25PSI has alot of persuasion against rubber.
Obviously where needed you use a silicone joiner and double clip with mikalors
+ Silicone joiner
- metal pipework
+ ------------------------------ + = GOOD
+ ------ + -------- + ----------- + = BAD
Point made :)
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Though so, but thanks for clearing it up Jordy
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Oh and using FMIC, buy a cheap pack of allen keys/screwdrivers from wilkinsons to keep in your boot. Saves ringing the AA every 10 mins, Blown pipe - Will stall your car.
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was thinking of buying a cheap tool kit to keep in the car, may just do that sometime..lol though i think my install is very tight and has no chance of slipping off.
will take more pics in a bit, too tired at the moment, just finished work :sad:
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i think my install is very tight and has no chance of slipping off.
I'll leave that quote there for you, is it remapped ? if so i'll hold you to it :P
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jord i can see were your coming from with the most direct route and lag etc but dont see how silicone is is no good as forge use nothing but silicone on there FMIC and has provent gains plus as metal is a very good heat conductor, so wouldnt you suffer from heat soak?
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Fair enough in 1 silicone piece.
I'll rephrase then - "Multiple pipe ajoinings is bad"
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Fair enough in 1 silicone piece.
I'll rephrase then - "Multiple pipe ajoinings is bad"
No more nails :rolleyes:
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you would have to have some flexible joins to allow for movement between the engine and chassis and i think the expansion in the pipe would be very marginal.
my car is remapped but i still dont think any pipes are going to be slipping off..
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jord i can see were your coming from with the most direct route and lag etc but dont see how silicone is is no good as forge use nothing but silicone on there FMIC and has provent gains plus as metal is a very good heat conductor, so wouldnt you suffer from heat soak?
jord just means the more Silicon joiners you use the more likely you are to get boost leaks. obvioulsy if you could have one complete silicon pipe for your FMIC that wouldn't have much chance of boost leaks. Comprende?
and as for heatsoak. my Ali CAI doesn't suffer from heatsoak. only when i've turn'd the engine off and left the bonnet closde. if i feel it straight after driving it's freezing! i dont know if it will be the same principle for the FMIC pipes?
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jord i can see were your coming from with the most direct route and lag etc but dont see how silicone is is no good as forge use nothing but silicone on there FMIC and has provent gains plus as metal is a very good heat conductor, so wouldnt you suffer from heat soak?
i dont know if it will be the same principle for the FMIC pipes?
think so mate, i gave my car a drive the other day and the rocker cover was hot but the inlet manifold was quite cold, and the pipes were really cold
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here are some pics of the final install.. didnt think there was any need for a step by step. oh, and the intercooler has been mounted the other way around since last time for the pipework to fit well.. more had to be trimmed off the bumper too.. it is very tight atm.. :evil:
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300076.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/S6300078.jpg)
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Wheres your DV outlet?
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Wheres your DV outlet?
+1 :huh:
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hidden by the engine cover, it is there.. honest...lol