Golf GT TDI 150 Overboost issues

[volatilebear]

Thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated!

I am going to order a N75 valve tomorrow as per the new part number of 1K0906627A i (thanks for the offer of lending me your N75 scarr89 but think ill just buy it to save convenience and if its not necessary then Ebay - Would rather not borrow things off people as I may need it for a while whilst I diagnose!) and am going to buy some silicone vacuum hose.

Questions

1. Can a complete amatuer like me mess up the silicone hose replacement if I properly take my time to measure each existing hose and ensure they are firmly attached to each end?

2. After replacing the vacuum hose and N75 valve I will want to re-test the car myself. Is this something that can be done easily for a noob like myself using VAG-COM and a laptop?

3. How much 3mm and 4mm silicone hose should I purchase? seems to come in either 1/2 or 1 metres and you can get funky colours too, is it worth colour coding?

4. If it comes down to the Actuator not holding vacuum then I think I will go with a replacement one from a turbo specialist such as Chris from Turbocharger Services however someone mentioned that they will need setting up afterwards, how much labour are we talking? Anyone got a rough idea on price to fit a replacement Actuator?

5. Thanks for the recommendation of midlands VW but as discussed I think this is a little too far, anyone know any nearer decent garages within the london area just in case I run into problems?

[volatilebear]

Disgred question 3 please - Just realise the guide explains lengths

[old_n07]

1. Can a complete amatuer like me mess up the silicone hose replacement if I properly take my time to measure each existing hose and ensure they are firmly attached to each end?
If you take a peice off at a time you can't really go wrong, if in doubt look at the diagrams in the links I posted

2. After replacing the vacuum hose and N75 valve I will want to re-test the car myself. Is this something that can be done easily for a noob like myself using VAG-COM and a laptop?
Yes - just log the boost channel (11) infor the engine in Vag-Com and graph the results - again instructions in the sticking VNT FAQ link

3. How much 3mm and 4mm silicone hose should I purchase? seems to come in either 1/2 or 1 metres and you can get funky colours too, is it worth colour coding?
Colour coding is entirely up to you, but length wise you would need 2m of each just to do the N75 and pipework not sure on how much is needed for the rest though

4. If it comes down to the Actuator not holding vacuum then I think I will go with a replacement one from a turbo specialist such as Chris from Turbocharger Services however someone mentioned that they will need setting up afterwards, how much labour are we talking? Anyone got a rough idea on price to fit a replacement Actuator?
It is something that can be done yoursef, set the rod on the new actuator to the same length as your old one then log the boost and adjust accordingly as per the sticking VNT FAQ, or you will need a tuning company with a rolling road like R-tech, good time to get a remap as well 

[volatilebear]

1. Can a complete amatuer like me mess up the silicone hose replacement if I properly take my time to measure each existing hose and ensure they are firmly attached to each end?
If you take a peice off at a time you can't really go wrong, if in doubt look at the diagrams in the links I posted

Brilliant - I have one question though - Seeing as I plan on doing an EGR delete I may as well buy the Allard EGR delete kit now and do that first right? Additionally, I am right in saying that I will completely remove the Anti Shudder solenoid and all of the red cabling as per the diagram? The EGR N18 and Anti Shudder N239 still stay there or can those be removed as well?

2. After replacing the vacuum hose and N75 valve I will want to re-test the car myself. Is this something that can be done easily for a noob like myself using VAG-COM and a laptop?
Yes - just log the boost channel (11) infor the engine in Vag-Com and graph the results - again instructions in the sticking VNT FAQ link

Thankyou for that

3. How much 3mm and 4mm silicone hose should I purchase? seems to come in either 1/2 or 1 metres and you can get funky colours too, is it worth colour coding?
Colour coding is entirely up to you, but length wise you would need 2m of each just to do the N75 and pipework not sure on how much is needed for the rest though

Thanks

4. If it comes down to the Actuator not holding vacuum then I think I will go with a replacement one from a turbo specialist such as Chris from Turbocharger Services however someone mentioned that they will need setting up afterwards, how much labour are we talking? Anyone got a rough idea on price to fit a replacement Actuator?
It is something that can be done yoursef, set the rod on the new actuator to the same length as your old one then log the boost and adjust accordingly as per the sticking VNT FAQ, or you will need a tuning company with a rolling road like R-tech, good time to get a remap as well 

I think if it comes to this ill goto a specialist - Although, I am not sure if R-TECH can put an Actuator onto a turbo for me? Would be willing to pay well obviously! Nick?

Another question thats important as I am about to purchase parts - Nick mentioned I may as well replace boost pipes as I may have "weeping boost pipes" (apparanetly very common) -

1. What kind of tubing do I need?

2. Is this for the tubing that comes from the Intercooler?

3. Is this easy to do myself?

3. Does anyone have a diagram?

Thanks alot!

[scarr89]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=3mm+silicone+hose&_sacat=See-All-Categories

They are the boost pipes for all of your valves, pick your colour!

The boost pipes from the intercooler, IC, are expensive to replace brand new. You would be better of take all of the IC pipework off and replacing the seals on them. I'd imagine the seals can be had from the dealers and then it would be as easy as taking them all off, cleaning them, new seals and replacing. You would probably want to replace the gash C clips that they use as well. All of the seals and clips would come to less than £10 I'd guess.

The IC pipework is the big black one that goes into your EGR valve. Follow that all the way down to the IC and remove the bottom pipes (black 90deg bends I think  ). You should only need to remove the under tray I believe!

[volatilebear]

Thanks scarr89,

Just to confirm (stupid question) when you say "They are the boost pipes for all of your valves, pick your colour!" you are referring to the pipes for this guide correct? http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/393238.aspx?PageIndex=1

Additionally, If you are referring to this then I thought this guide requires both 3mm and 4mm?

What are the gash C clips? Will a dealer know what I am referring to if I ask for Intercooler pipe seals and gash c clips?

Thanks for the info regarding where to locate the IC boost pipes - I am a complete noob to this but im feeling confident! 

[old_n07]

The boost pipes and vac hoses are different -

The vac lines are the 3 and 4mm ones to the valves and actuator.

The boost hoses run from the turbo to the intercooler and then from intercooler to EGR valve.
On the end of each boost hose there is a seal and metal clip that holds the connections together, these are liable to wear causing the leaks.

If you fit the EGR delete you can leave the old valves on the bulkhead or remove them - up to you. I left mine (without any pipes connected) still plugged in to the electrics so I don't get any fault codes stored in memory.

[Rhyso]

Found my review of the Forge Actuator

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=146824.0

[scarr89]

Old_no7 and Rhyso are diesel oracles...I'll leave it up to them to aid you  :embarassed:



Interesting read on the forge actuator Rhyso, interesting results also. Needless to say I won't be getting one in the future. Why and or how do you think it gave those results compared to a stock actuator? 

[Rhyso]

Old_no7 and Rhyso are diesel oracles...I'll leave it up to them to aid you  :embarassed:



Interesting read on the forge actuator Rhyso, interesting results also. Needless to say I won't be getting one in the future. Why and or how do you think it gave those results compared to a stock actuator? 

I think it was mostly down to the spring; as far as I'm aware although the springs are the same between the 007p and that actuator because diesels run much higher boost figures then the actuator was unable to control the vanes properly.  I think with a dedicated spring it MAY have done the job

What you have to be careful when replacing the actuator is that its worked with your turbo over a considerable mileage and has worn in with it.  The setup has to be absolutely spot on otherwise...........