Author Topic: Rivage Buying advice 18/01/2011  (Read 19904 times)

Offline jonny5

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Rivage Buying advice 18/01/2011
« on: 12 September 2005, 21:11 »
Hi, I'm new to this forum so be gentle with me!

I've always wanted a Rivage and am finally in a position to buy one.

Following Clipperjay's buying advice on MK1 cabs - great thread by the way, just what I was looking for - I am after some Rivage specific buying advice. Here're the questions I have:

1) How do I tell it's a genuine Rivage? It should say "Rivage" on the V5, is it written anywhere else e.g. manuals, log book? Does anyone know the chassis number range of Rivages?
2) 15" Castellet wheels - what is the standard finish? I have seen polished ones but some seem to have a matt finish, which is factory? Should I be put off buying a car with alloys that have been kerbed - anyone know how much it costs to refurb wheels?
3) The Rivage decals - what colour / finish are the originals? It's hard to tell from the photos I've seen. Are the replacements available on ebay good reproductions?.
4) How long should the seats take to heat up? Just so I know when I get to test them.
5) How do you tell if a hood is mohair?
6) What tell tale signs of problems with the computer are there? How much does it cost to replace one?
7) Where exactly is the VIN number stamped (showing my novice status here)?
8) Any specific checks on the power hood other than watching for smoothness and listening for creaks? Should you check any of the mechanism for rust etc?
9) How much extra should a leather interior add to the value?

And a few other non-Rivage specific cab questions:

10) What checks should you make on the suspension / wishbones / bushes / gaitors etc?
11) What lights / clunks / squeeks should you look out for on the test drive?
12) What type of alarm / immobiliser is best and how much for one if it has been fitted?
13) I have read a few threads about problems with rust around the rear windows, why is this such a problem? Don't you get a new window when a new roof is fitted?
14) How do you check the fuel filler tube for rust? Is it just by removing the petrol cap and looking in?
15) Seeing as most MK1 cabs will have done at least 100K miles, should I be wary of cars that haven't yet had an engine recondition?

Finally, can anyone recommend some decent books that list the history of the MK1 cab and it's varients? Has anyone got / read this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1846443067/ref=cm_mp_wli_/202-0788411-0274237

Hope I haven't p'ed you all off with so many questions, any other Rivage advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Jon
« Last Edit: 18 January 2011, 22:32 by SoundillusioN »

Offline stevegant

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #1 on: 13 September 2005, 11:23 »
A couple of comments that I would take into consideration :

Fuel Filler Neck - Check very carefully around the top of the fuel neck where it meets the body.  They are about £100 quid for a cabby - much more than for a tin-top.  Mine looked very good on a quick inspection, but when I looked right up inside the top of the arch I was able to push a hold through the pipe with my finger !

Check the actual frame around the rear window where it meets the rubber seal.  Often the frame bubbles away with rust under the seal itself and will cause it to leak.  You don't necessarily get a new window frame when the hood is replaced.

Make sure that both front seats tilt correctly - the cables can snap and are much harder to replace when you have a leather interior (I know as I have been through this !)

Check that the clutch cable is not quietly cutting its way through the bulkhead.  There should be a rubber block to stop this happening.

Have a look at the hood pump and reservoir located in the boot (nearside).  Make sure that the fluid is at max and that there is no signs of fluid running out of the joins etc - some of these parts are very hard to source.

Have a look at the glove box lid as the hinges usually crack.  The dash can also peal around the winscreen vents.

Don't really expect the car to be 100% watertight :-)











Offline vaughn

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #2 on: 13 September 2005, 11:25 »
send a pm to gibby he`s pretty knowledgeable on rivage`s


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Offline gibby

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #3 on: 13 September 2005, 12:22 »
Cor ! Where to start with all the questions !  :shocked:

1) Yes it should say it's a Rivage on the V5 document. They only made them on J (91) to L (93), the L reg's are very rare and most will be J or K reg. The J reg, or anything without a cat where supposed to be the stronger engine's and the cat took away some of the performance.
2) The Le castellete wheel finish should not be a mirror bling but should have a dullness matt finish to them.
3) The original decals should look as though they are fading as that was the finish and that is normal, I dont have the originals on mine and you can buy repros from www.trimsport.co.uk but Ive never seen a repro with the original "faded" look.
4) The seats should take about 10 minutes to warm up but dont expect a raging furnice !
5) Mohair hood should have snooker table type napp to it, Vinyl will feel smooth and plasticy.
6) I've never had a problem with the trip computer *touch wood so dont know how expensive it is to replace, check it works and shows all the correct functions, mpg, oil temp etc.
7) There should be numbers on the front slam panal above the grille under the bonnet, I think the VIN number is on the bulkhead under the plastic drip tray on the bulkhead under the bonnet grills. There should also be a sticker showing the paint code in the boot on the left hand side of the crossmember of the power hood.
8 ) Nothing much to check on the hood, but that it works, mine takes about 15 seconds to open and close and you do hear a bit of a whining when it come to the end of the open or close cycle but I wouldnt worry about that much. On the left hand side of the boot there will be a fluid reservoir, check that this has fluid in it and at the right level, if it hasnt its not the end of the world as you can get some from VAG. If you need to know that I'll get the part number for you.
9) A leather interior could add up to £500 to the value I reckon, all Green ones had leather but not all blue ones did. My advcie if you want a blue one is to get the cream leather as I personally think they look too dark inside with blue cloth interior.
10) I'm not mechanically good so do any checks to the suspension etc that you would do dor any car.
11) On a test drive make sure it doesn't blow any smoke (blue or black) out of the back, look out for the temp light coming on as mines started to do that but it could be just a dodgy sensor which is what I think Ive got as its not overheating. The tickover should be smooth and idle between 900 - 1100 revs, you'll see two small white lines either side of the 1000rpm line and it should idle between them but constant and smooth. I dont know what you are used to but on a test drive it should be fairly nippy and when you boot it in second or third it you should feel it surge but the power will tail off at the start of the limiter of 6k. Just listen out for any untoward noises but you will get a certain amount of wind noise if you get chance to floor it to 60 - 80 mph but that's just being a cabby owner. Also, take your hand of the wheel and see if it stays in a straight line and also brake (where safe to do so) with no hands on the steering wheel and see if it veers to the left or right, it might do a little but it should not be a violent veer if you know what I mean.
12) As for immobilisors, its best to be a cat1 and I'd also advise getting a microwave style alarm that can be attached to an existing one where you can leave the roof down and if anyone breaks the bubble by putting hands inside the car it will trigger the alarm. Get a good crooklock too.
13) I dont think mine has any rust around the back window and I've recently had a new hood fitted and the old window was put into the new hood so that's not a problem for a good coach trimmer as they need to cut the window hole out of the new hood and seal it in.
14) Fuel filler neck, just open the petrol cap and you'll see it, mine needs doing really and you can replace these and the cabs are more expensive that the mk1 tintop as I've already priced it up, the cabby is about £95 + VAT from GSF and the tintop is something like £25 from ECP or GSF. Apparently the mk1 tintop can be fabricated to fit though so Ive been told.
15) If a mk1 (tintop or cabby) has been well looked after with regular services and oil changes then high miles should not be a problem, I bought mine over 2 1/2 years ago with 91k on it and its now approaching 120k and it still pulls well and on a run down the motorway (autobahn of course :grin: ) can still cruise at 100mph with a bit left if I really wanted to push it.

Sorry, cant recommend any books on the cabby as I've not seen or read any.

The only reall problem I've had a couple of times is with a starting problem where the connections on the fuel relay switch get all crapped up and it wont start as it overheats the relay. This is a common problem and to see if there's a relay problem stick your head out of the drivers side and listen for a whurr by the back wheels, this is the fuel pump priming and sounds like a CD player noise, this should prime as soon as you switch the ignition on. You may have a problem with the fuel relay in the future, but hey, sh1t happens.

If you need to know anymore then let me know and I'll do my best. Good luck with finding one and you will not regret it as I love mine, you just need to live with the girly hairdresser jibes ! :wink: :laugh:
« Last Edit: 13 September 2005, 12:30 by gibby »
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Offline Phil303

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #4 on: 13 September 2005, 18:59 »
Can't help with any Rivage specific tips but if you do need a new window frame I've got one spare.

I bought another when I had my roof replaced, just in case the old one fell apart when it was removed.

Turns out my original frame was solid metal underneath the light surface rusting, so it went back in. That means I've now got a pukka rear window frame sitting around.

I you, or anyone reading this, wants it (at an honest, mates-rate price!) just email me. I can send pics too.

Offline Madone_si

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #5 on: 13 September 2005, 19:26 »
Can't help with any Rivage specific tips but if you do need a new window frame I've got one spare.

I bought another when I had my roof replaced, just in case the old one fell apart when it was removed.

Turns out my original frame was solid metal underneath the light surface rusting, so it went back in. That means I've now got a pukka rear window frame sitting around.

I you, or anyone reading this, wants it (at an honest, mates-rate price!) just email me. I can send pics too.

Always good idea to have a spare rear frame and glass - they are becoming rare...
Old Skool Mk1 Golf Gli (82), BLACK SOY 92

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #6 on: 13 September 2005, 20:10 »
i haven read that book,but i do no there is one made by bentley publishers
"volkswagen cabriolet,scirocco service manual 1985-1993"...not sure if that wud b any gud?! :undecided:

Dinx :kiss:

Offline jonny5

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #7 on: 13 September 2005, 21:00 »
Thanks for all your help, especially to gibby - a great run down of Rivage advice, much appreciated (I thought you'd be one of the first to reply as you seem to be the most active Rivage owner in this forum).

I found the car of my dreams on Auto Trader this morning - a blue Rivage with leather interior, but was way too late - someone bought it without even seeing it last night!!! Gotta be quicker off the mark.

Another question for owners of older cars - how do you justify replacing a decent, warm, reliable car with an old, leaky, noisy old one to your partners? My girlfriend is none too impressed with my premature mid-life crisis necessity for a MK1 cab.

Cheers

Jon

Offline gibby

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #8 on: 14 September 2005, 08:36 »
Another question for owners of older cars - how do you justify replacing a decent, warm, reliable car with an old, leaky, noisy old one to your partners? My girlfriend is none too impressed with my premature mid-life crisis necessity for a MK1 cab.

Just say that Golf's are classy and it goes with her shoes !  :laugh: :laugh: No matter what colour you get she's bound to have a pair to go with it.  :wink:

I'll keep a look out for you on t'internet and if I see any adverts for any I'll post them up here.  :smiley: The daft thing is I was after blue with cream leather and that's all I wanted but when I saw the green one I loved it and I'm glad I got it now, I guess what I'm trying to say is dont rule out any green ones you might come across.  :smiley:
« Last Edit: 14 September 2005, 08:40 by gibby »
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Offline jonny5

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Re: Rivage Buying advice
« Reply #9 on: 14 September 2005, 18:19 »
I'd definitely consider a green one, and if one was to turn up I'd probably snap it up. My current car is dark green and I still think it's a nice colour, I just know how rare green Rivages are and that the price may be slightly out of my budget.

I'd appreciate a heads up if anyone knows of a Rivage for sale, I can guarantee it'd be going to a good home.

Cheers

Jon

P.S. ANyone seen the 2 MK1 cabs that have appeared on Auto Trader today claiming to be Rivages? See if you can spot the deliberate mistakes.