Author Topic: FMIC choices and how to guide  (Read 47596 times)

Offline Prawny

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FMIC choices and how to guide
« on: 06 August 2012, 19:44 »
Argh! Too much for my brain :( So many different approaches!

First thing's first, 63mm minimum pipework is required the entire way from the outlet of the turbo to the throttle body.

76mm pipework isn't needed at all, anywhere, and just introduces a greater volume, and hence more lag, so sack that off.

To quickly go over the setups that Bully posted earlier in the thread:



This setup uses a 76-63 90 reducer directly off the core, all the rest of 63mm, the pipe run on this side can be used on a mk4 golf TB arrangement or an LCR arrangement, it's the same for either.

it's on the other side that things differ if you're using one of the two inlet manifold options.



This setup looks rubbish to me, whilst it's fairly smart, the use of all alloy hard pipes with silicon couplers doubles the number of joints needed in the system, so doubles the chances for a leak. by alternating between alloy and silicon bends, you minimise the number of joints required, so the system stands a better chance of being air tight.

Also, sticking in 76mm like the above gives a massive volume and lower air flow speeds which just arn't required - lag central.

It also leaves you with two MASSIVE pipes hanging out of the front of the car, very difficult to hide!



This again looks ugly to me, no need for such massive bits of silicon off the cooler, and the pipe run extends out to the sides more than it needs to, just looks messy somehow.



This one looks fairly nice, although without knowing how it connects into the charge pipe behind the headlight it's hard to say if there's room for improvement or not. Certainly neater than the silicon 45's option above, but it does include an additional joint which you'd obviously rather avoid.



Offline Prawny

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FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #1 on: 06 August 2012, 20:03 »
 
This is my version of the Welly cooler, for the A3. This arrangement is for a ko3 framed turbo, and should work with minimal/zero trimming of the pipes/silicon. Ko4 fitment is slightly different, replacing the turbo outlet pipe with a 54-63mm silicon reducer.
This is the core, as owned by many on here already:
 
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
 
it’s a beast, and it’s SUCH good value it’s unreal.
 
To fit that, you’ll need to cut the back of the crash bar out, but that’s dead easy and takes 5 minutes with a grinder.
 
As for mounting height, I opted to hang mine with around 6’’ of the core hanging below the crash bar, and this seemed to work well with the A3 bumper. You can bring it up a BIT more, but any higher and it fouls the top of the bumper and back of the grille, any lower and it’ll hang out the bottom!
 
To mount that I used a length of 30mm Angle section alloy bought from B&Q for about £7. that’s just secured on little bits of box section either side of the rad. All very simple stuff, you can see pics on page 26/27 of my build thread.
 
As for pipes, the cold side is VERY easy.
 
You will need:
 
1x 76-63mm 90 degree reducer in silicon
1x 63mm 90 degree silicon bends
1x 63mm 90 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm straight 100mm alloy coupler.
 
It’ll look like this:
 

 
Reducer off the core > coupler to join up the next silicon bend, > then the alloy 90 takes you into the standard throttle body pipe. Simples.
 
As for the hot side, it’s a BIT more tricky.
 
You will need:
 
1x 76-63mm 90 degree reducer in silicon
1x 63mm 90 degree silicon bends
2x 63mm 90 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm x 300mm straight alloy pipe
1x 63mm 45 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm 45 degree silicon bend
1x 51-63mm straight silicon reducer to go onto the turbo outlet.
1x 63mm straight silicon coupler.
 
The layout:
 
51-63 reducer straight onto the turbo, pointing upwards.
> alloy 90 degree bend into that, pointing forwards towards the pax side headlight. Coupler on the end of that into:
>45 degree alloy bend into that, coming over the rocker cover
>45 degree silicon bend to take the route downwards part the starter motor
> 90 degree silicon bend on the bottom, pointing outwards towards the pax wheel.
> 90 degree alloy bend, takes you out through the side of the undertray side panel, and ends up pointing forwards below the headlight
> into the 76-63  90 degree reducer pointing back towards the centre of the car, and connected onto the core :)
 
Top side setup will be very similar to this: (this is my ko4 layout)
 

 
Although the connection onto the turbo is slightly different, because your turbo’s sit a lot lower than my ko4 frame.
 
All the silicon bits and alloy bends came from Mr. Silicon on ebay:
 
eBay My World - mrsilicone
 
As for the clamps, I used JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel clamps, you need the 60-80 clips for all the 63mm pipework, 2x 70-90 clips for the core connections, and then a 50-70 for the turbo connection. Count the number of joints in the system to work out how many 60-80’s you’ll need, it’s about 12 I think.
 
The core was £80, my pipes from Mr silicone came to £140, and I spent about £30 on hose clips.
 
Good luck!

Will add some finished pics of mine a bit later on :)
« Last Edit: 07 August 2012, 15:05 by richw911 »

Offline Prawny

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FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #2 on: 06 August 2012, 20:13 »
Few finished pics:



Pipework changed around slightly for WMI nozzle, same pipes as in the list above, just swapped top to bottom





You do need to heat shield the outlet though, or this happens:



« Last Edit: 07 August 2012, 15:06 by richw911 »

Offline ReDBull

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #3 on: 07 August 2012, 20:33 »
Thanks Prwan for coming over a helping out :smiley:. Ok I'll concede it's my inlet manifold that's on the wrong side. :lipsrsealed:
I might have to re think/buy some of my pipe work as I was going to copy the one with the red hoses above! :grin:
03 210 Seat LCR. Badger5 V2.2TIP, Fordge 007p, Wellycooler, Quaife ATB LSD, Nuespeed ARB's, KW Clubsports, 330mm discs, 3" turbo back de cat and still on the standard map!
My project thread: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=241116.0

Offline Prawny

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #4 on: 07 August 2012, 20:44 »
Wow, I've only made 18 posts and I've got a sticky :D result! haha.

Don't copy the red one above! doesnt look cool!.

the best LCR/S3 wellycooler setup I've seen so far by a mile is James hayes install on his S3, seen on page 11 of the ASN FMIC thread you guys have talked so much about:








Right hand side pipework is actually the same for either an LCR or a mk4 golf, regardless of inlet manifold choice, it's the left hand side pipework that changes to suit your needs.

If you look at those pics, it looks so much more neat and professional than any of the other offerings, and gives the shortest route with the least joins

Offline ReDBull

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #5 on: 07 August 2012, 22:54 »
I'll be on the phone to Mr Silicone tomorrow to swap my 45's for 90's :grin: 
I wonder why the SCNer's do it differently to you guys on ASN?
03 210 Seat LCR. Badger5 V2.2TIP, Fordge 007p, Wellycooler, Quaife ATB LSD, Nuespeed ARB's, KW Clubsports, 330mm discs, 3" turbo back de cat and still on the standard map!
My project thread: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=241116.0

Offline dom

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #6 on: 07 August 2012, 23:06 »
Wow, I've only made 18 posts and I've got a sticky :D result! haha.

Don't copy the red one above! doesnt look cool!.

the best LCR/S3 wellycooler setup I've seen so far by a mile is James hayes install on his S3, seen on page 11 of the ASN FMIC thread you guys have talked so much about:

Right hand side pipework is actually the same for either an LCR or a mk4 golf, regardless of inlet manifold choice, it's the left hand side pipework that changes to suit your needs.

If you look at those pics, it looks so much more neat and professional than any of the other offerings, and gives the shortest route with the least joins

You don't have a link to that do you? I'm looking into this for my AUM at the moment, the only thing that is putting me off is that I want to be able to refit my lower bumper grills....I don't like the idea of pipework hanging out of the front.

Offline Prawny

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #7 on: 08 August 2012, 10:02 »

You don't have a link to that do you? I'm looking into this for my AUM at the moment, the only thing that is putting me off is that I want to be able to refit my lower bumper grills....I don't like the idea of pipework hanging out of the front.

Pics above are of James S3 install, the HYS plate car. No use to you though as you have an AUM.

My install above in replies #1 and #2 will work perfectly on an AUM, all you'd need to do it replace the 63mm 100mm coupler on the cold side with a 63mm forge MAP pipe to house your map sensor.

Offline dom

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #8 on: 08 August 2012, 10:10 »

You don't have a link to that do you? I'm looking into this for my AUM at the moment, the only thing that is putting me off is that I want to be able to refit my lower bumper grills....I don't like the idea of pipework hanging out of the front.

Pics above are of James S3 install, the HYS plate car. No use to you though as you have an AUM.

My install above in replies #1 and #2 will work perfectly on an AUM, all you'd need to do it replace the 63mm 100mm coupler on the cold side with a 63mm forge MAP pipe to house your map sensor.

Cheers :afro:

Offline paultownsend

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Re: FMIC choices and how to guide
« Reply #9 on: 09 August 2012, 21:21 »
Is there Any way of flipping the charge pipe 180' to keep the dv and n75 take off's?