Right thought I'd just let you know how I did it and it works a treat
First of all order yourself a 10w 330ohm resistor from RS Components or they can be sourced from ebay but I didn't want to waithttp://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/160-382/http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=330ohm+resistor+10w&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&_odkw=330ohm+resistor&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
Another thing you might want to think about is possibly using the spare take off that you will have on the throttle housing as a source for a boost gauge. If you want to do this you'll need a 4mm to 8mm pipe reducer, available from ebay for a couple of quid.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nylon-Barbed-Straight-REDUCER-Silicone-Hose-Connector-Fuel-Pipe-Joiner-Water-/330685325127?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&var=&hash=item7dbdca683d
Now for the fun part.
First of all you need to find all the bits you're going to remove in the engine bay. Look for the carbon canister, associated pipework and the clips.
Next pop the lid off the canister and cut this pipe off right at the join leaving as much of the hard plastic pipe as possible. Then remove the rubber pipes and check valve from the throttle housing and the carbon cannister. Disconnect the electrical plug too
Now find the bolts that secure the canister to the inner wing. They are 10mm and you'll be able to see one of them but the other is hidden under the bonnet release cable guide. The guide is held on with two screws, one on the wing join and the other on the inside of the front panel just above the back of the headlight. Once you have undone these you can slide it out enough to get the bolt undone.
When you've undone these bolts you should be able to pull the canister out. You'll probably need to give it a bit of a wiggle to get it past the PAS tank but it's doable.
Now with the canister out the way follow the pipe from the T piece back to the TIP. I cut this back as close to the TIP as I could and shoved an M8 bolt in there to block it off. I reused one of the clips from the pipe to secure it
Now you need to turn your attention to the electrical connection. The resistor needs to be fitted in place of the solenoid on the top of the canister. You can cut the plug off and solder the resistor in place but I chose to fit it to the plug as it can still be refitted if needed.
Now for the petrol tank vent pipe. This still needs to be vented as your petrol tank will still want to let off excess pressure. I reused some of the rubber pipe that was cut from the pipe going back to the TIP for this and also a clip. Shove the pipe through one of the holes in the wing to vent the fumes under the car.
Lastly if you want to connect the boost gauge to the throttle housing take off use the 8mm to 4mm reducer and route the pipe back to your boost gauge.
As usual I won't be held responsible for anything that goes wrong, I'm only telling you how I did it
Oh and did a quick scan with VAG COM last night and no fault codes from removing it
If you need any help just ask