Author Topic: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3  (Read 52693 times)

Offline freezaburn

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HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« on: 04 May 2011, 12:44 »
VW GOLF MK3 GTi 2.0L 8V '94 (Engine code 2E)

I always work better with pictures so figured someone might find this post useful.  :grin:

Step 1: Position the car on a level surface

Step 2: Depressurize the fuel system
You can do this by either leaving the car standing for a few days (fuel pump did not work!)  :tongue:
Or you can remove the fuel pump relay (Bottom, right-hand far-most relay #103) and run the engine until she dies (some models might differ with relay numbering).

Step 2: Disconnect the battery terminals
This one might seem obvious but you do not want any current near an open fuel tank! ("Mythbusters" might contest this one though!)

Step 3: Remove fuel pump cover
In the boot / trunk, remove the carpet and locate the round black disk which is the fuel pump cover.


Step 4: Take note of the pump position
Note the arrow for the outgoing fuel line, the arrow for the returning fuel line and the arrow for the position of the pump top-cover in relation to the body markings.




Step 5: Remove connectors
Remove both hose clamps and fuel pump/sender plug.
TIP:Place a rag underneath the hoses to catch any spilt fuel.
Pull off both the hoses (be careful of any residual pressure in the system!), and either plug/cover them to prevent dirt from entering them.




Step 6: Remove retaining nut
You can either use a pump plier or two large flat head screwdrivers to remove the pump's plastic retaining nut (anti-clockwise).
TIP: The trick is to apply equal but opposite pressure on either side of the nut. Since it is platic, it will malform if pressure is only applied to one side which will make it virtually impossile to turn off. Also, being plastic, only use a hammer to get the initial bit unstuck.




Step 7: Remove the fuel sender unit and pump
Remove the fuel sender unit. Note that a wire arm with a float on the end must also be completely withdrawn. It takes a bit of jiggling, but do not force anthything as it all designed to come out easily. (Do not bend the float arm if you intend to re-use the sender unit).
Next remove the pump by giving it a 1/4 turn in an anti-clockwise direction. This will release the pump from it's bayonette-type connection at the bottom of the tank.
Recover the rubber seal and give it a good clean.


Step 8: Install new pump
Insert the rubber seal.
Note the four clips at the bottom of the new pump which fits into the bayonette-like plug at the bottom of the tank.
Gently insert the pump into the bayonette plug (you do not want to damage the fuel strainer at the bottom) and give it a 1/4 turn in a clockwise direction.




Step 9: Insert the fuel sender and pump
Gently insert the float and float-arm into the gap and then guide it upward and to the left (to the top of the fuel pump). Note the shaft of the sender unit is spring-loaded and will rest upright / perpendicular to the cap and push against the bottom of the tank. Therefore you will experience some resistance in the cap wanting to push up until you have tightened the retaing nut.






Step 10: Finish off
Ensure that the pump cover is seated properly with the rubber seal. Fit and tighten the nut in the same maner as it was loosened in step 6. Ensure that the arrow on the cover still lines up with the the body!  Also ensure that there is no play on the pump cover once you have tightened to ensure no fuel fumes can escape. (It is not unusual for the nut to turn on very tight! :drool:)
Attach the correct hoses with new hose clamps and plug back the connector making sure it clips in properly.
Reconnect battery terminals and let car run for a few minutes to ensure pump and fuel guage is in working order and that no fuel fumes are escaping!
If all is in working order, replace the outer cover and tighten.



Compliments of FREEZABURN!

Offline Len

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #1 on: 04 May 2011, 13:27 »
Mine did NOT come out easily!  :angry:
Mystic Blue Mk3 16v + Black Mk5 Gti 05 plate + Peugeot 405 Mi16

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Offline lockey

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #2 on: 04 May 2011, 21:22 »
Why oh why could i have seen this last week is there any way of removing the plastic retainer that holds the pump down as my diesel unit wont fit in with it there

Offline Wayne

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #3 on: 04 May 2011, 21:53 »
Excellent guide :afro:
Quote from: Diamond Hell
You suck at buying cars, please take the pointy D hat from Wayne and go sit in the corner.

Offline dom

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #4 on: 04 May 2011, 23:38 »
Great guide! As Len says then can be a right b!tch to get out sometimes :angry:

Offline freezaburn

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #5 on: 05 May 2011, 07:47 »
@lockey

The bayonette-type retainer at the bottom of the fuel tank cannot be removed as four brass rivets keep it in place.
The bottom of the fuel pump has a strainer which is kept only a few millimeters from the bottom of the tank by said retainer. Removing it implies the pump's strainer will lay flush with the bottom of the tank and thus will not be able to efficiently pump fuel.


Offline dan_apps

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #6 on: 07 May 2011, 20:05 »
good right up! :afro:

Offline francoisd2446

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #7 on: 30 January 2012, 14:09 »
What a write up, nice one mate I need to do this as my fuel pump died I believe.....

Offline blacfist

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #8 on: 01 February 2012, 22:18 »
hello to all,

i need to buy a fuel sender......just wanted to know if there is are any major differences between the various models out there?

my car is a 1998 's' reg 2.0 (agg engine) convert. the part number i seem to be seeing a lot of is 1ho 919 051b.

thanks for your help

cheers
bf

Offline SteveWa

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Re: HOW TO replace the fuel pump and sender on MK3
« Reply #9 on: 27 July 2012, 23:47 »
Great post & detail, it helped me alot, so thanks!

I just want to add one thing, the pump was extremely difficult to get out of the tank!

So I used a strap socket with a 4inch extension, turned anti-clockwise and out it popped. :-)