Author Topic: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ  (Read 68011 times)

Offline RIPP3Y

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #10 on: 05 December 2006, 18:37 »
Mate, if i wasnt so far from you, i`d be there as fast as my dodgy carb would let me :grin:.
Anyhow, with this info at hand i can visit the garage with confidence, so cheers. :wink:


 

Offline jamie_f

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #11 on: 09 April 2008, 14:02 »
hay im a complete novice when it comes to working on carbs, at the moment im having trouble with the auto choke basicly it doesnt work at all, i tryed bridging the choke thermo switch and seeing if that would start the auto choke off but no joy, im getting a current coming threw the thermo switch up to the carb but after this im not sure where to check, any help would be much appreciated

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #12 on: 09 April 2008, 14:23 »
the heater doesnt do a great deal compared to good coolant flow through the carb, the choke housing should get hot very quickly, if not the o-ring is blocked!
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline nictron

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #13 on: 27 November 2008, 13:47 »
hi, im having what i think is a slight problem..could just be me being picky :tongue: but anyway here we go... basically i was having some trouble with high revs, petrol small etc, all the usual stuff. turned out to be blocked o-ring, so i replaced that, everything was a little better, but still reved quite high or really unevenly. i then noticed that the choke wasnt actually operating properly as it did not have any resistance when i pushed on the flap. tested the choke unit itself, everything seemed to be working  :huh: sucked as hard as i could on the pull down unit...nothing happened. luckily i had a spare 2e2 in teh garage so tested the pull down on that and it worked so i swapped them over. easy. the problem seemed to get better, thought everything was solved. i had also bought myself that haynes carb manual, very handy. so i decided to go through the overhaul and adjustment procedures to get everything back to the proper settings. did the idle cam positioning and all that stuff (using a nicely bodged setting tool made from a piece of wood and a screw :P ). after doing all that i started playing with the idle control valve and CO screw, finding it very hard to get a good combination of the 2. the one i did find it ran nicect was if the control valve was screwed fully in meaning that the pushrod was as far out as it would go (didnt think that it could be right to be fully adjusted either way) but even with it fully adjusted the revs now seem maybe too low? and the throttle plate adjusting screw doesnt actually touch the pushrod :huh: and after all that... there seems to be a large flat spot on acceleration, meaning i can floor it, revs seem to hesitate and are a bit jumpy and then slowly build up till i can feel the kind of power band starting to pull me along. i dont know wether or not this is just normal and i should be a little gentler on the throttle  :grin: or there is some unlying problem i cant seem to work out. im only 18 and lack of experience it making it difficult to tell :P

bit of an essay haha,
any help would be much appriciated.

also if anyone has got a weber 32/34 theyd like to get rid of cheap il be happy to take it :)

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #14 on: 27 November 2008, 13:56 »
you can bend the metal flap and/or adjust the threaded screw on the lever that hits the 3/4 unit, to give you the correct idle when everythign else is sorted.  Set the idle valve so the 3/4 point unit is extended to the specified length, then use the lever to fine tune the adjustment.

also worth looking at the waxstat pin lengths, make sure that is pushing off as specified, plus the pulldown unit has some adjustment too if required :)
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline nictron

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #15 on: 27 November 2008, 14:44 »
ah ok, wasnt sure if i could jsut start bending bits to fit lol. so the throttle plate flap's pin is supposed to be touching the pushrod at all times?? waxstat should be ok bought a new one about 6months ago.
 :smiley:

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #16 on: 27 November 2008, 15:09 »
mr haynes has this to say in the mk2 manual:
Start the engine and let it idle. The diaphragm pushrod must now be extended approximately 8.5 mm (three-point unit), or 9.5 mm (four-point unit), and must just contact the fast idle adjustment screw.

and this in the carby manual:
If the engine is at operating temperature there must also be a gap between the throttle stop screw and the pushrod.

Unfortunatly I dont actually have a carby any more, or even any spares to look at!  I'd guess the lever has been played with in the past if after resetting all the clearnaces as per the carby manual theres a big gap between that lever and the 3/4 pushrod!
« Last Edit: 27 November 2008, 15:11 by rubjonny »
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Offline nictron

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #17 on: 27 November 2008, 15:18 »
hmm... ok. well come to think of it its wasnt a massive gap only 1-2 mm. but the strange thing is that the idle seems a little low, sounds as though its going to conk out if i leave it, even when the pushrod is fully adjusted outward, i guess its jsut trial and error and see what happens.

cheers for you help anyway :)

tempted to just get a weber and be done with it tbh lol

Offline Neo Badness

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #18 on: 01 December 2008, 17:02 »
Excellent sticky, loads of useful info, however i strongly reccomend splashing the cash for a manual choke weber item. Changed one on my 1.6 driver(RIP :cry:) and was like a new car, better everything, only did about a 100 miles before got taken off road but good induction noise too  :smiley:
Actually, if someone wants mine it's sitting in a box with all the linkages/bolts/washers etc after stripped the car.
Make me an offer and it's yours :wink:

Ally

You don't own a Mk2, you support it.

Offline deanpompey

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Re: Pierburg 2e2 carb FAQ
« Reply #19 on: 14 August 2009, 20:51 »
some help needed guys, have a 2e2 on a mk1 clipper i just bought, engine fires up and runs, however is lumpy as hell. wont rev above about 2.5/3k rpm sounds,feels and smells like its overfuelling badly, i dont have any idea what im doing with a pierburg, so if anyone can help me with a bit of guidance as to how to adjust the mixture?? idle screw seems to do absolutely sod all!

anyone got a pic of a 2e2 and can point me in the direction of which screw adjusts the co?

cheers!