Author Topic: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.  (Read 16784 times)

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Thought i'd start a thread on here on my ongoing project.

Already have a thread going so adding main bits on here too.

S2 exhaust manifold with fifth runner chopped and welded.



Modded TT/S3 Inlet manifold, welded to a Kr bottom with fuel rail and FPR. Courtesy of George on ED38.



Delphi 440cc injectors.


ARP Head studs

Goin to drop compression with 2 ABF Metal head gaskets. And i'm goin to change big end bearings for peace of mind.

Was goin to get some 2e rods as they are meant to be stronger but was mucked around by someone i bought some from. What are ABf rods safe to run up to regards torque output??

Was thinking of also changing the rings. Although the engine seem sound and doesnt burn any oil at 120K, with boost it may be a weak point. Will cross this bridge when the engine is stripped down.

I did a compression check on the cylinders and results were as follows.

1 = 195psi 2 = 200 3 = 191 4 = 202

I checked no 3 again wet and it raised to about 195. not much change which could posibly indicate a leaky valve?? Dont know if this is a good reason to do the rings or not. Would rather not but will if i have to. Bearing in mind the engine is staying in the car.  :shocked:

Because the car has AC, and i want to keep it. I've got to figure out a way to use an intercooler of some sort. At the moment i can see with the bumper off that there would be no room on the drivers side of the radiator but i have an idea of how i'll get one in the without having it sticking out of the bumper. :wink:

It will be controlled by Megasquirt 1 V3 using MSextra code and i am in the process of building it as i type.  Stim has been made and ive just finished the power section of the V3 pcb. Seems straight forward so far, but haven't got to the choices part yet.

Just deciding whether i want to run with the distibutor ( which would be less soldering) Or go wasted spark, because i dont trust the reliabilty of the mk3's coil.?? Any suggestions? I have a ford coilpack already and the leads fit in without mods.

I finished building my megasquirt kit. Took me a little while to get back into soldering again, but all went smoothly and had no problems.



It has been upgraded to the MS extra code and has been tested with the stim and mega tune.




The megamanual is easy to follow. Just gets a bit confusing when switching between the MS extra manual. It was enjoyable to build.:afro:

Removed inlet manifold and found these wires for the throttle switch and potentiometer. Had no faults but wouldn't have helped it run very well. They run behind the inlet.

« Last Edit: 15 July 2013, 20:24 by tshirt2k »


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #1 on: 04 March 2011, 19:40 »
Started stripping parts off the engine ready to remove the head.



Started to pile up all the not needed parts ready to sell if anyone needs bits[;)]

Inlet and injection parts.


Exhaust manifold and downpipe.


I trail fitted the turbo manifold and turbo, but couldn't get the turbo on because it was fouling the clutch pipe.

Took the head off after borrowing the no12 spline tool from a mate. Then had a look at the bores. Pistons were quite clean considering the mileage and with a bit of carb cleaner most of the top rubbed off.



Was in two minds wether i need to replace the rings or not, as they say, "if its not broke, don't fix it" [:[]

Here's some of the bores, they have a slight step that is smoothish and they have some cross hatching still visible.


Heres some of the of the cross hatching.


Also found some odd mark on number 3 piston. the seem to be raised. valves are ok too at first i thought it was a crack but seems like a casting mark. Anyone?




Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #2 on: 04 March 2011, 19:44 »
Stripped the head today. Cams put in one tray (Baking) valves, collets, springs etc bagged numbered and placed in another. Valve stem seals were a bit hard to remove, but managed with a set of long nosed pliers and a good grip. :huh:



Head was cleaned with gunk rinsed off. I think there is quite a bit of movement in the valve guides, so will find out about getting new ones fitted.



Will be getting some rings for the pistons as suggested. I was thinking obout getting a flexhone. They are quite pricey but easier for the novice.


Spoke to the uk distibutor and they recommended a 180 grit for deglazing does this sound right?? they also do a 240 grit but they get more expensive as they get finer. Only downside is they are around £60  :sad: . Also i am gonna have to do it with the crank in place, obviously well protected.

Found some prices for rings. Cheapest were £110+vat. They are made by Goetze. OE Quality and German made. ECP dont know who makes theirs are so dont fancy them.

Decided to measure my bores today so brought home a internal Micrometer from work.



I Wanted to check how much the bores have worn so started measuring.



Haynes manual stated that the bores should be 82.51mm with a maximum bore wear of 0.08mm, which works out to 82.59mm for standard pistons. The average measurement for my engine was 82.53mm with very little ovality. Which means a bore wear of 0.02mm over its life, which is quite good i think.[:y:]


Also received some 2E rods



Got my flex hone tool and set bout honing the block to recieve the new rings. Its an 83mm 240 grit silicon carbide hone.



I used some cheap engine oil and thinned it out with paraffin to lube the hone.

Was easy to use and gave a good finish. I made sure i taped up the crank and put an oily rag down the bores to protct from the grit. I then cleaned out the bores with paraffin until there was no more grey being wiped off.



During all this my pistons and rods were put in the dishwasher. All the ring land were cleared of carbon with an old ring. The 2E rods were then fitted to the pistons.

The new rings had their clearances checked in the bores ( They were all ok) and fitted to the pistons. Managed to get these for a good price and they are supposed to be the best aftermaket rings and OE quality. Designed for used engines. And £75 cheaper than vag ones.[:o]


Then Each piston was oiled up and fitted to the block. I didn't replace the rod bolts[:o]  If its good enough for toyotec, its good enough for me.[:y:]



Still need a sump (metal) and an oil pump. And thats the bottom end done.

Head needs 8 valve guides fitted before i can put it back together.


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #3 on: 04 March 2011, 19:47 »
I started to try moving radiator back on drivers side to allow better fitment of the FMIC. I took off the front panel and started cutting after removing my leaking rad and Air con condensor.

This is after cutting the fans out.


I continued to cut away with a reciprocating saw until it was like the picture. You end up fitting the passenger side of the rad into its normal mounting holes and the drivers side onto the back of the panel.

This is it temporarily fitted in the front panel. You can see how much its moved.


This shows how much room i have infront of the condensor when its in place.



Only problem is... Now the rad is too far back.The bottom hose is touching the crossmember and the pipe wont go back on with it like this. [:(]
I Either have to mod the panel more and move it forward or find a rad with the bottom outlet on the the passenger side????

decided to paint my rocker cover.

The Rocker cover was first cleaned in the dishwasher and then scrubbed cleaner with gunk and a scourer.

Then polished raised bits



Rocker was then masked up and primed with Hammerite special metals primer.



Finally painted with Plastikote super enamal. Masking tape removed an polished secions cleaned up.



Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #4 on: 04 March 2011, 19:51 »
Got a male -10 fitting welded to the sump for my oil return.  Was going to get it welded further over to the right but there is a big round thing on the mk3's driveshaft that would foul the line, so got it put more near the centre. That position was the highest the bloke could get it whilst allowing the welding tip to get in. Apparently the alloy on the sump isn't very good and thats why the welds aren't clean. [:s]



This meant i could fit a new oil pump and windage tray.



I put sealant on the block, filled the oil pump with oil and fitted windage tray then oil pump. Then did the same to the sump and fitted that using the ABF bolts torqued up to 13Nm. (As stated on Elsawin).




This is the position of how the fitting looks compared to the driveshaft/CV joint.



Now bottom end is complete, cylinder head is in machine shop getting 8 exhaust valve guides fitted. Then it can be assembled and fitted to block. Head was straight and didn't skimming.[:)]

Head came back from shop with new exhaust guides fitted. Seats had been cut on the exhaust valves so had to lap in the the inlets. They had a little staining on the valves and seats so it only took a few minutes for each valve plus cleaning time.



Fitted ARP studs into block and then 2 ABF metal gaskets.



I fitted new valve stem oil seals and assemble all the valves and springs into the head. But before fitting it to the block, i had to sort out the sealing face for the coolant pipe on the front of the head. It was quite pitted with corrosion. [:^(]



Decided to try and fill it with some chemical metal.



This is the result. Hope it works.



Head was fitted to block and ARP's torqued to 80 lbs/ft with ARP lube as per instructions.
Cams refitted to the head as per Nigep's Guide. [:y:]

I was a bit concerned that the turbo wasn't goin to fit so trail fitted it with manifold.

[SIZE="2"]S2 Turbo[/SIZE]



Home made stainless Outlet flange. 2.5" outlet. Wastgate and downpipe/cat flange in the process of being done.



In place on manifold.



The clutch line just hinders the turbo being put onto the studs but i clearanced it. It depends on how the compressor housing is clocked as to how close it is. I'll be putting some heat protection there at some time. But i'm happy for now. [:)]

Got thinking about oil and water supplies for the turbo. I'm going to be using the oil Tapping on the back of the head for the feed. As toyotec has done.



For the water i found a tapping on the side of the head that i could use. i just need  M14x1.5 fitting . Then just return into one one the pipes.



Fitted New Timing belt along with rocker cover and gasket. Just got to get a few seals for the water flanges, then can start with fitting inlet and working on plumbing it all in.





Fitted inlet and fuel rail


I decide to have a go at making my own down pipe. I had some flanges made at work as it meant i didnt have to get them from the states at a high price. And rather than making the bends myself, i found some tight bends from jetex.

As there is not much space at the turbo outlet before heater pipes and gearshift cable get in the way. I had to make a 180 degree bend to get under the turbo. I started by tacking together the bends using a MIG and stainless wire.



I then tacked on the flange.



Then after alot of trimming and checking another tight bend was added. Then some time later after more marking and trimming i ended up with this 90% finshed with a flexi added.
(Excuse the messy welding it will be tidied up later)



This shows the route it takes from the turbo, looking from underneath.



This is the gap i have to make up now to finish it. You can see the cat flange i have had made also. I also have a flange for the external wastegate and have to join that into the DP along with fitting a lambda bung.



I have also bought all the fitting to connect turbo to water supply from speed flow. Didn't realise fittings and a bit of hose could cost that much!! [:o]


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #5 on: 04 March 2011, 19:56 »
Got my water line fitting and cut the heater return hose to fit it in. I decided on this because the teflon hose i have wont work with a hose clamp. Came from hong kong fairly quickly and is 26mm. This is for the water return.



In position.



The fitting is is a -6 jic to 1/8" NPT. I am using -6 hose for my water lines on the turbo.

Made turbo water feed line. Note heat proof material covering. Need to get it sewn on for added piece of mind.


Had to finish the DP so it could be connected to the cat. I stated off by trying to work out the angle the the pipe needed be so it would connect the the cat. I worked out by doing some measurements, that it was about 20 degrees. I had some PVC pipe and made up the shape using my cone layout program. It fitted right. :afro: I then transferred it to the stainless and marked it out.



Then i cut section out using an angle grinder and inox disc, cleaned up after with a belt sander.



I then tacked it to my Home made cat flange.



After offering it into position, it was lined up and tacked to the rest of the DP.



Then it was welded up to seal it.  Here it is complete. Only need to add wastegate outlet pipe to finally finish it when the 1.75" pipe arrives.



To complete the downpipe i had to weld on the wastegate pipe.

I had the flange made at work and got a 1.75" 90 deg bend. It was cut to size and trimmed to fit onto the DP. Although it sounds simple it took ages to get the right shape.[:x]



This is how the pipe would be fitted.



Once the right position was found, the pipe was marked and the hole was cut out.



I then welded the pipe into position. Will be welding flange on tomorrow. I also had to remove studs from wastgate and replace with bolts, because once fitted, the downpipe would be impossible to remove.



Downpipe completed. I'm going to wrap it,



Had to try and fit the intercooler whilst keeping the A/C. Couldn't find much info on this apart from knowing the rad had to be shifted back towards the engine about an 1".

A new rad was sourced and fitted int the front panel after trimming most of the panel away to allow the rad to be moved back.

This was the first option, which mounted the rad on the inside of the original mounts. I found this sat it too far in that i couldn't get bottom hose on right.



I then decided to chop drivers side mounting holes and make some brackets to secure that side of the rad.

Ended up like this. This ali bracket bolted to the rad, pulls it back just enough to allow space for cooler. I have made another bracket to secure the other side but its not fitted yet.



It was then time to feit the I/C in place with rad and A/C heat exchanget in place. I couldn't fit the crossmember on so i cut the whole back of it out and trimmed it until it fitted nice.



Once i had it in place, i realised i had no waw of securing it. I trimmed the back of the crossmember that i'd cut out earlier so it didnt foul the I/C and rewelded it back on. I the set about making some templates out of cardboard to fix the I/C to the crossmember.



I got it all into position and started by fixing the bottom mounts to the front panel.

The bolts needed were M8. I bought them from B*Q but they only did 20mm long. They needed to be around 12mm, so they were cut down. The split nut shown is used so that after the bolt is cut (and deburred), you removed the nut and it leave the thread intact and you can easily fit it into where it meant to go.[;)] (Old technique from college).




I then drilled the panel and bolted the middle and N/S bolt to the I/C. The O/S hole hangs off the panel slightly so will sort that another time.



Here's  a pic of the I/C i have used. Held in place by the bottom bolts.



I then started making some bracket to fix the top of the I/C. Using some cardbourd as a template, i transfered it to som sheet steel and bent and drilled it to make a bracket.

It was fixed in place to test position.



I cleaned up the back of the crossmember, drilled some holes onto the bracket so it cold be plug welded into position.



I started with the centre and N/S again The 3rd one is part done and will possibly finish that tomorrow and start the boost piping.  :smiley:



Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #6 on: 04 March 2011, 19:59 »
Started having a go at running the boost pipes.

Bought some stainless bends. Unpolished, but may polish then at a later date. I wanted to make it all in one piece but realised it would be hard to remove if needed, so i will add some silicon bits in there as i have already bought some.



I then started cutting the pipes to connect to the hot side of the I/C.

This connects to the I/C and bend slightly so it clears the alternator. It will be tacked into position with the MIG and taken to work and TIG welded.



It connects to the I/C (hot side) as shown, going up through next to the chassis arm. Had to trim quite a bit of the front panel to get it to fit.



It the comes int the bay past the A/C compressor and left slightly away from the alternator . It looks close to the Compressor in the pic but theres plenty of room.[;)]



This is roughly how it runs from the turbo. Also had to leave space for the fuel pipes to go on. Still need adjustment though. Hump hose may not be used yet, but pipe will be secured to the block using the clamp from a TT/S3 20v. Also need to find space for BOV in the pipe.



First i finished th I/C brackets on the back of the crossmember and painted it black. You cwont be able to see it so its not too pretty. I also welded in some strengtheners to the front to stop the plate flexing.

Front



Back



I then finished off running the boost pipes from the cold side of the I/C up to the TB.

Silicone elbow from the outlet to a stainless 45 deg pipe behind headlight.




Finished with 90 deg stainless bend to the TB. All pipe is 2.25" or 57mm. Still need a few hose clamp to finish it off. It cant be seen but i shortened the clamp holding the Air con hoses to give room for the pipe and trimmed a tab off the battery tray.



This is how it looks at the mo.



Took out hump hose connector and replaced with pipe. Held temp until i decide where i should put the BOV.



Had to mod the boost pipe to the TB because the angle wasn't right. Would have possibly caused a leak if left as it was. Also found a bit of inch stainless pipe at work so i could use it for the BOV connection. Pipes were cut filed and tacked into place.



Here's how the BOV fits. Bought a S/H Bailey DV24.



Still waiting to get it TIG welded. Half tempted to MIG it though. :undecided:

Been thinking how i could fit gauges into the MK3. With not many options i decided to try this. Found inspiration from something similar on Vortex.

Started with this.



After lots of careful cutting and filing it ended up like this:




With gauge fitted. For those who don't know. It's the cowling around the steering column.[;)]



I'll be putting another one in on the LHS and prob use these for boost and oil pressure. Will have to find a place for AFR gauge, preferably without using pillar mounts.


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #7 on: 04 March 2011, 20:02 »
Wrapped the DP



Fitted a 12" slimline fan. Still have to buy and fit another one in the week.




Also finished off my column gauge pods. This is how the fit in the car.



This is them lit up. You can still see all the gauges and warning light when in position. Can't see from pic.



After being let down by Eurospeed big time with my turbo oil feed and returns,  decided i would make my own, (oil inlet at least). Luckily i had an inlet gasket to use as a template.

Had some 10mm bar lying around at work so marked out the shape and first drilled mounting holes.



The piece was then filed to the correct shape and then Drilled and tapped for a -4 adapter. I used a M10x1.25 tap and got a fitting to suit.



Here's the parts i used. Homemade flange, -4 jic to M10x1.25 adapter and copper sealing washer.



Assembled



Fitted to turbo, Also showing water return



The other end of the oil feed , engine side. Used a -4 jic to M10x1.0 adapter to make connection.



This is where i took the turbo water feed from . I used -6 pipe for this. and an adaper to connect to the head M14 i think.



I wanted to get the Turbo drain sorted. Rather than take the Turbo off again for a template i managed to get a flange from 034 motorsports, through INA engineering for a decent shipping price.[:y:] As $37 for a small flange was a bit much. All i needed to get was a 1/2"NPT to AN10 fitting to connect my hose.



Oil drain flange bolted to turbo. Still need a 45deg hose end to complete it.[:[]


This is how i'll get around the driveshaft. 90deg hose end connects to a 45deg female/male coupler. It gives a tight angle to keep hose next to the block. I want to still use heat shield to keep heat away from inner CV joint so may have to mod it for the drain to still work.



In the mean time i ordered my RS Autosport loom.


And a Universal filter that i'll be making a heatshied for.. Hopefully should flow enough air for my target power. Also the hose connected to the filter is Fuel filler hose (got it cheap) that is smooth lined so it should be better for airflow.



In the loom there are lots of spare wires so used these and started making up an injector loom. I'm goin to use as much of the existing loom as poss, to save ripping it out. The injector loom an other sensors will stay connected to the 28 pin plug that i STILL can't undo but obviously shortening and resoldering where necessary.




Also had to remove gearbox so i could change clutch. Goin to put a VR6 clutch in. Got a sachs one on order. Not sure whether to lighten flywheel or not while its off and get a 02j shift tower and shifter?? Also took driveshaft off as i had to replace split CV boot.

List goes on and on..



Had the boost pipes Tig welded, had to grind the insides of the pipes as they weren't purged with argon at the time.



Whilst the gearbox was off and flywheel sent to Hotgolf i started to tackle the wiring. Had to trace all the wires from ECU and 28 pin plug, so i could keep the loom in place. Will just tap into the fusebox and insert inline fuses where necessary. Having Elsawin is a godsend.



Most of the unused wires were trimmed off and all wires were cross referenced to the diagrams and belled out to make sure. Unused injector wires from plug were used for IAT and oil sender so i didn't have to run new ones. T piece also fitted for sender. Had to get a the D shaped plug for the IAT sensor from VW. P/N 1j0 973 702. if anyone needs it.




Because i am using existing lambda bung in cat, I had to fit controller on chassis rail .



ECU plug cut off and wires labelled. The unused wires were trimmed back, not to short incase i may need them at a later date.



To get wires into cabin, i couldn't use the usual large grommet by the passenger side as it aleady had some 0 gauge power cable in it. So had to find another. A large grommet under wiper motor was ideal (looks like its for a clutch cable). I put boost gauge pipe, and MS loom through using some smaller grommets. Still may need another for the Wideband controller wires.



Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #8 on: 04 March 2011, 20:05 »




Got the fittings to finish oil drain. Luckily i could use original heat shield, which seems to protect inner CV from exhaust. Had to cut a hole in  it and feed drain through it. Bottom clears the drivshaft o.k. Water feed was also connected up. Heat shield mat was also used on the bulkhead and over some of the oil/water lines.



Bought some S2 plugs, I guessed as the engine was running the turbo and they where a heat range colder than the ABF, They should be ok.



I had no way of securing the longer VR6 throttle cable, I used the One from the ABF manifold, positioned and Drilled & tapped the inlet to keep it in place. I used Threadlock/sealer to prevent ant leaks through the thread.




I still had an AFR guage to fit and the best place for me was in the centre console. Wiring took a while as i wanted to follow existing wire runs to prevent chaffing. Don't want any fires.[:x] Also needed 2 power feeds(fused) unlike the other gauges.



With gauge in place, Cal button and led is fitted above.



I finished off soldering the looms together and connecting al the various sensor wires and relavent fuses. Most of the feeds use the origanal relay/fusebox outputs with separate inline fuses used where necessary. There are lots of spares on the loom for any extra functions.[:y:] The connections were checked and double check with a meter to make sure they were right. Fingers crossed i didn't miss any :huh:



The loom enters the cabin through a grommet under the wiper motor and ends up behind the glove box. Vaccum line runs with this and the boost gauge pipe Tees into this so i can see vacuum on the gauge too.





After designing the twin fan circuit i bought the components. These were a

1X 30A SPDT relay (maplins)
1X male plug to connect to existing fan plug with 2.5 wires and seals
Various female spade connectors.

This was wired together and placed on the front panel just above fans. It was tested and works how it should.



Had a tidy of the wiring. T28a is being used and any unused wires where used for other things like IAT and oil pressure sender etc. I've left ISV connector in place if i decide to use one at a later date.



Fuse box showing inline fuses for injectors, ECU, wideband controller and AFR gauge.



Had to find a solution for the servo vacuum line. Tried chopping the original to make it fit but didn't want it to run behind the turbo. Went to a breakers and found one from a caddy diesel that runs exactly how i needed it. You can just about see it go straight out of to servo and down.



Non return valve with connection for AC recirc flap line



Wanted to secure the boost pipe from the turbo. I used the clamp thats found on a BAM 20v. It was too big to clamp the pipe so had to weld a slice of tube iside it to give a tight fit. A bracket was made to secure it to the head.




Air filter fitted nd secured to inner wing. Would ideally like a heatshield but that can wait.



How it stands now. Engine work complete as far as i can tell.



Been filled with oil and turned over intil pressure got up. Need to do a few more mods on the ecu and put interior panels back and its ready for mapping.


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose

Offline tshirt2k

  • I live here
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,330
  • Location: 3/4 of the M25
  • Been there...Done that...
Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
« Reply #9 on: 04 March 2011, 20:08 »
I removed the turbo Due tosmoke. Was i bit awkward but had to be done. Gonna get it checked out by a specialist.



Whilst it was off i took a pick of what i had to grind down to allow it to fit on easier. That part used to get stuck on the clutch pipe.



Picked up the turbo yesterday. Very happy with the outcome. [:D] Looks like new.

Great service from Turbo Developments in Brentford. They explained exactly what the problem was and rectified it. It needed oversize ring seals and housing needed machining to fit them. Very reasonable prices too.





Its now fitted and connected up. Changed oil and filter. Started it up until it was was warm. No signs of any smoke yet.[:)]



Forgot to add a pic of how the bumper was modded for the Intercooler. Had to cut out outer slats and grind down the others until it fit. Drivers side still sticks out more, even though rad was moved back.



Job Done and mapped!...

It seems the mk3 coil isn't very strong. In MS whilst mapping there was a misfire at 50% fixed dwell. So it was increased to 75%. Not long after the coil died.[:^(] .

I was thinking abount using a single coil but that would mean modding th Megasquirt again to use the internal ignitors and also the Mk2 TCI-h system. But I wanted a more compact unit. I then found one from a passat 9A. It a similar design to the MK2 but has a close coupled ignition amp mounted on the same bracket.



I didn't want to start cutting up my loom so orderd a male plug and wires from VW.



This was connected to the coil via spade connectors (until i get a female plug). And the wires were connected up to the corresponding connections. A hole was drilled to secure it.



It fired up and ran straight away. We'll see how long this lasts. Fingers crossed. :angry:

Went over to Garage Streamline to see the results of all my hard work has come to.. After watching Vw singh's little Mk1 do its thing, I had my go on the rollers.

Most of the mapping had been done on the road and the final little tweeks were to be done on the chassis Dyno.

The car was strapped up and the first run was performed.



This gave Toyotec somewhere to start.



I think the idea was to smooth out the curve, reduce a bit of the peak torque and maybe let the torque hang around longer to give a higher hp.

A few more runs and it started to improve, the torque curve started flattening which smooth the Hp curve around 6k. Boost was kept the same, peaking at around 1 bar then drops off down to around 0.5 bar near the limit. A boost controller may help this.



Toyetec continued fettling and we increased the boost a bit more and this started happening. Misfires.[:^(] Not sure if the squiggly line is one but there is definately one later on.



As the car got hotter it seemed to get worse, as soon as the torque peaked it would miss quite bad and drop power off. Conclusion was the new coil amplifier that I had fitted wasn't up to the job either [:x]. It was getting late (and cold) so the boost was turned down a tad and a final run was done.

261lbft of torque and 242bhp.[:y:] Not bad for home grown. And more than my expected target when i first started the build.



Circle show that the misfires are there but it still an improvment on the 1st run. It's noticeable on the road too. Much smoother, but still the tyres struggle to overcome the rapid onset of torque. It a good road setup torque just where you need it. Maybe too much though. :shocked:



« Last Edit: 04 March 2011, 20:13 by tshirt2k »


Mk3 ABF 16VT Megasquirt V3

Tshirt knows........ How to diagnose