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Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Golf mk3 gallery => Topic started by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:36

Title: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:36
Thought i'd start a thread on here on my ongoing project.

Already have a thread going so adding main bits on here too.

S2 exhaust manifold with fifth runner chopped and welded.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_21092008115.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=21092008115.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_21092008116.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=21092008116.jpg)

Modded TT/S3 Inlet manifold, welded to a Kr bottom with fuel rail and FPR. Courtesy of George on ED38.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_DSC00514.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=DSC00514.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_DSC00515.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=DSC00515.jpg)

Delphi 440cc injectors.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_DSC00126.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=DSC00126.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_DSC00124.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=DSC00124.jpg)
ARP Head studs

Goin to drop compression with 2 ABF Metal head gaskets. And i'm goin to change big end bearings for peace of mind.

Was goin to get some 2e rods as they are meant to be stronger but was mucked around by someone i bought some from. What are ABf rods safe to run up to regards torque output??

Was thinking of also changing the rings. Although the engine seem sound and doesnt burn any oil at 120K, with boost it may be a weak point. Will cross this bridge when the engine is stripped down.

I did a compression check on the cylinders and results were as follows.

1 = 195psi 2 = 200 3 = 191 4 = 202

I checked no 3 again wet and it raised to about 195. not much change which could posibly indicate a leaky valve?? Dont know if this is a good reason to do the rings or not. Would rather not but will if i have to. Bearing in mind the engine is staying in the car.  :shocked:

Because the car has AC, and i want to keep it. I've got to figure out a way to use an intercooler of some sort. At the moment i can see with the bumper off that there would be no room on the drivers side of the radiator but i have an idea of how i'll get one in the without having it sticking out of the bumper. :wink:

It will be controlled by Megasquirt 1 V3 using MSextra code and i am in the process of building it as i type.  Stim has been made and ive just finished the power section of the V3 pcb. Seems straight forward so far, but haven't got to the choices part yet.

Just deciding whether i want to run with the distibutor ( which would be less soldering) Or go wasted spark, because i dont trust the reliabilty of the mk3's coil.?? Any suggestions? I have a ford coilpack already and the leads fit in without mods.

I finished building my megasquirt kit. Took me a little while to get back into soldering again, but all went smoothly and had no problems.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00136.jpg~original)

It has been upgraded to the MS extra code and has been tested with the stim and mega tune.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00139.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00131.jpg~original)

The megamanual is easy to follow. Just gets a bit confusing when switching between the MS extra manual. It was enjoyable to build.:afro:

Removed inlet manifold and found these wires for the throttle switch and potentiometer. Had no faults but wouldn't have helped it run very well. They run behind the inlet.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00141.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:40
Started stripping parts off the engine ready to remove the head.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00142.jpg~original)

Started to pile up all the not needed parts ready to sell if anyone needs bits[;)]

Inlet and injection parts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00147.jpg~original)

Exhaust manifold and downpipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00145.jpg~original)

I trail fitted the turbo manifold and turbo, but couldn't get the turbo on because it was fouling the clutch pipe.

Took the head off after borrowing the no12 spline tool from a mate. Then had a look at the bores. Pistons were quite clean considering the mileage and with a bit of carb cleaner most of the top rubbed off.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/CHoff.jpg~original)

Was in two minds wether i need to replace the rings or not, as they say, "if its not broke, don't fix it" [:[]

Here's some of the bores, they have a slight step that is smoothish and they have some cross hatching still visible.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_No1bore.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=No1bore.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_no2bore.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=no2bore.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_no3bore.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=no3bore.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_no4bore.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=no4bore.jpg)

Heres some of the of the cross hatching.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/4crosshatch.jpg~original)

Also found some odd mark on number 3 piston. the seem to be raised. valves are ok too at first i thought it was a crack but seems like a casting mark. Anyone?

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/no3marks.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00143.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:44
Stripped the head today. Cams put in one tray (Baking) valves, collets, springs etc bagged numbered and placed in another. Valve stem seals were a bit hard to remove, but managed with a set of long nosed pliers and a good grip. :huh:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Camgear.jpg~original)

Head was cleaned with gunk rinsed off. I think there is quite a bit of movement in the valve guides, so will find out about getting new ones fitted.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/head1.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/head2.jpg~original)
Will be getting some rings for the pistons as suggested. I was thinking obout getting a flexhone. They are quite pricey but easier for the novice.
(http://www.ien.com/uploadedImages/ien/Articles/Problem_Solvers/FlexHone2_1007.jpg~original)

Spoke to the uk distibutor and they recommended a 180 grit for deglazing does this sound right?? they also do a 240 grit but they get more expensive as they get finer. Only downside is they are around £60  :sad: . Also i am gonna have to do it with the crank in place, obviously well protected.

Found some prices for rings. Cheapest were £110+vat. They are made by Goetze (http://"http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/EMEA/EngineSolutions/Products/PistonRings/GoetzePistonRings/"). OE Quality and German made. ECP dont know who makes theirs are so dont fancy them.

Decided to measure my bores today so brought home a internal Micrometer from work.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/boremic.jpg~original)

I Wanted to check how much the bores have worn so started measuring.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Boremeasuring.jpg~original)

Haynes manual stated that the bores should be 82.51mm with a maximum bore wear of 0.08mm, which works out to 82.59mm for standard pistons. The average measurement for my engine was 82.53mm with very little ovality. Which means a bore wear of 0.02mm over its life, which is quite good i think.[:y:]


Also received some 2E rods

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/2Erods.jpg~original)

Got my flex hone tool and set bout honing the block to recieve the new rings. Its an 83mm 240 grit silicon carbide hone.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/flexhone.jpg~original)

I used some cheap engine oil and thinned it out with paraffin to lube the hone.

Was easy to use and gave a good finish. I made sure i taped up the crank and put an oily rag down the bores to protct from the grit. I then cleaned out the bores with paraffin until there was no more grey being wiped off.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00505.jpg~original)

During all this my pistons and rods were put in the dishwasher. All the ring land were cleared of carbon with an old ring. The 2E rods were then fitted to the pistons.

The new rings had their clearances checked in the bores ( They were all ok) and fitted to the pistons. Managed to get these for a good price and they are supposed to be the best aftermaket rings and OE quality. Designed for used engines. And £75 cheaper than vag ones.[:o]
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00506.jpg~original)

Then Each piston was oiled up and fitted to the block. I didn't replace the rod bolts[:o]  If its good enough for toyotec, its good enough for me.[:y:]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00507.jpg~original)

Still need a sump (metal) and an oil pump. And thats the bottom end done.

Head needs 8 valve guides fitted before i can put it back together.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:47
I started to try moving radiator back on drivers side to allow better fitment of the FMIC. I took off the front panel and started cutting after removing my leaking rad and Air con condensor.

This is after cutting the fans out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Fans_removed.jpg)

I continued to cut away with a reciprocating saw until it was like the picture. You end up fitting the passenger side of the rad into its normal mounting holes and the drivers side onto the back of the panel.

This is it temporarily fitted in the front panel. You can see how much its moved.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/back_side.jpg)

This shows how much room i have infront of the condensor when its in place.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Airconrad_space.jpg)

Only problem is... Now the rad is too far back.The bottom hose is touching the crossmember and the pipe wont go back on with it like this. [:(]
I Either have to mod the panel more and move it forward or find a rad with the bottom outlet on the the passenger side????

decided to paint my rocker cover.

The Rocker cover was first cleaned in the dishwasher and then scrubbed cleaner with gunk and a scourer.

Then polished raised bits

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/rockerpol1.jpg)

Rocker was then masked up and primed with Hammerite special metals primer.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/primedrocker.jpg)

Finally painted with Plastikote super enamal. Masking tape removed an polished secions cleaned up.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/paintedrocker.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:51
Got a male -10 fitting welded to the sump for my oil return.  Was going to get it welded further over to the right but there is a big round thing on the mk3's driveshaft that would foul the line, so got it put more near the centre. That position was the highest the bloke could get it whilst allowing the welding tip to get in. Apparently the alloy on the sump isn't very good and thats why the welds aren't clean. [:s]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00533.jpg~original)

This meant i could fit a new oil pump and windage tray.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00537.jpg~original)

I put sealant on the block, filled the oil pump with oil and fitted windage tray then oil pump. Then did the same to the sump and fitted that using the ABF bolts torqued up to 13Nm. (As stated on Elsawin).

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00539.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00538.jpg~original)

This is the position of how the fitting looks compared to the driveshaft/CV joint.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00540.jpg~original)

Now bottom end is complete, cylinder head is in machine shop getting 8 exhaust valve guides fitted. Then it can be assembled and fitted to block. Head was straight and didn't skimming.[:)]

Head came back from shop with new exhaust guides fitted. Seats had been cut on the exhaust valves so had to lap in the the inlets. They had a little staining on the valves and seats so it only took a few minutes for each valve plus cleaning time.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/lappingvalves.jpg~original)

Fitted ARP studs into block and then 2 ABF metal gaskets.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Studs_Gaskets.jpg~original)

I fitted new valve stem oil seals and assemble all the valves and springs into the head. But before fitting it to the block, i had to sort out the sealing face for the coolant pipe on the front of the head. It was quite pitted with corrosion. [:^(]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/coolantfacecorrosion.jpg~original)

Decided to try and fill it with some chemical metal.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/filledcoolant.jpg)

This is the result. Hope it works.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/completecoolantface.jpg~original)

Head was fitted to block and ARP's torqued to 80 lbs/ft with ARP lube as per instructions.
Cams refitted to the head as per Nigep's Guide. [:y:]

I was a bit concerned that the turbo wasn't goin to fit so trail fitted it with manifold.

[SIZE="2"]S2 Turbo[/SIZE]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/k24turbo.jpg~original)

Home made stainless Outlet flange. 2.5" outlet. Wastgate and downpipe/cat flange in the process of being done.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/outletflange.jpg~original)

In place on manifold.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/trail_turbo.jpg~original)

The clutch line just hinders the turbo being put onto the studs but i clearanced it. It depends on how the compressor housing is clocked as to how close it is. I'll be putting some heat protection there at some time. But i'm happy for now. [:)]

Got thinking about oil and water supplies for the turbo. I'm going to be using the oil Tapping on the back of the head for the feed. As toyotec has done.

(http://pic60.picturetrail.com/VOL1769/7825168/17029252/263608756.jpg~original)

For the water i found a tapping on the side of the head that i could use. i just need  M14x1.5 fitting . Then just return into one one the pipes.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/watertapping_head.jpg~original)

Fitted New Timing belt along with rocker cover and gasket. Just got to get a few seals for the water flanges, then can start with fitting inlet and working on plumbing it all in.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00561.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00560.jpg~original)

Fitted inlet and fuel rail
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/inletmani.jpg~original)

I decide to have a go at making my own down pipe. I had some flanges made at work as it meant i didnt have to get them from the states at a high price. And rather than making the bends myself, i found some tight bends from jetex.

As there is not much space at the turbo outlet before heater pipes and gearshift cable get in the way. I had to make a 180 degree bend to get under the turbo. I started by tacking together the bends using a MIG and stainless wire.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/startdownpipe.jpg~original)

I then tacked on the flange.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/tackedwithflange.jpg~original)

Then after alot of trimming and checking another tight bend was added. Then some time later after more marking and trimming i ended up with this 90% finshed with a flexi added.
(Excuse the messy welding it will be tidied up later)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/downpipewelded.jpg~original)

This shows the route it takes from the turbo, looking from underneath.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DPunderneathview.jpg~original)

This is the gap i have to make up now to finish it. You can see the cat flange i have had made also. I also have a flange for the external wastegate and have to join that into the DP along with fitting a lambda bung.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/gaptocat.jpg~original)

I have also bought all the fitting to connect turbo to water supply from speed flow. Didn't realise fittings and a bit of hose could cost that much!! [:o]
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:56
Got my water line fitting and cut the heater return hose to fit it in. I decided on this because the teflon hose i have wont work with a hose clamp. Came from hong kong fairly quickly and is 26mm. This is for the water return.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/waterreturn.jpg~original)

In position.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Returnfited.jpg~original)

The fitting is is a -6 jic to 1/8" NPT. I am using -6 hose for my water lines on the turbo.

Made turbo water feed line. Note heat proof material covering. Need to get it sewn on for added piece of mind.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/turbwaterfeed.jpg~original)

Had to finish the DP so it could be connected to the cat. I stated off by trying to work out the angle the the pipe needed be so it would connect the the cat. I worked out by doing some measurements, that it was about 20 degrees. I had some PVC pipe and made up the shape using my cone layout program. It fitted right. :afro: I then transferred it to the stainless and marked it out.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/pipemarking.jpg~original)

Then i cut section out using an angle grinder and inox disc, cleaned up after with a belt sander.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/pipesection.jpg~original)

I then tacked it to my Home made cat flange.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Tackedtocat_flange.jpg~original)

After offering it into position, it was lined up and tacked to the rest of the DP.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Tackedtoflexi.jpg~original)

Then it was welded up to seal it.  Here it is complete. Only need to add wastegate outlet pipe to finally finish it when the 1.75" pipe arrives.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Completedownpipe.jpg~original)

To complete the downpipe i had to weld on the wastegate pipe.

I had the flange made at work and got a 1.75" 90 deg bend. It was cut to size and trimmed to fit onto the DP. Although it sounds simple it took ages to get the right shape.[:x]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/wastgate_pipe_and_flange.jpg~original)

This is how the pipe would be fitted.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/pipe_alignment.jpg~original)

Once the right position was found, the pipe was marked and the hole was cut out.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/hole_marked.jpg~original)

I then welded the pipe into position. Will be welding flange on tomorrow. I also had to remove studs from wastgate and replace with bolts, because once fitted, the downpipe would be impossible to remove.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/pipe_welded.jpg~original)

Downpipe completed. I'm going to wrap it,

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00592.jpg~original)

Had to try and fit the intercooler whilst keeping the A/C. Couldn't find much info on this apart from knowing the rad had to be shifted back towards the engine about an 1".

A new rad was sourced and fitted int the front panel after trimming most of the panel away to allow the rad to be moved back.

This was the first option, which mounted the rad on the inside of the original mounts. I found this sat it too far in that i couldn't get bottom hose on right.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/back_side.jpg~original)

I then decided to chop drivers side mounting holes and make some brackets to secure that side of the rad.

Ended up like this. This ali bracket bolted to the rad, pulls it back just enough to allow space for cooler. I have made another bracket to secure the other side but its not fitted yet.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00635.jpg~original)

It was then time to feit the I/C in place with rad and A/C heat exchanget in place. I couldn't fit the crossmember on so i cut the whole back of it out and trimmed it until it fitted nice.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00632.jpg~original)

Once i had it in place, i realised i had no waw of securing it. I trimmed the back of the crossmember that i'd cut out earlier so it didnt foul the I/C and rewelded it back on. I the set about making some templates out of cardboard to fix the I/C to the crossmember.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00670.jpg~original)

I got it all into position and started by fixing the bottom mounts to the front panel.

The bolts needed were M8. I bought them from B*Q but they only did 20mm long. They needed to be around 12mm, so they were cut down. The split nut shown is used so that after the bolt is cut (and deburred), you removed the nut and it leave the thread intact and you can easily fit it into where it meant to go.[;)] (Old technique from college).

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00671.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00672.jpg~original)

I then drilled the panel and bolted the middle and N/S bolt to the I/C. The O/S hole hangs off the panel slightly so will sort that another time.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00675.jpg~original)

Here's  a pic of the I/C i have used. Held in place by the bottom bolts.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00679.jpg~original)

I then started making some bracket to fix the top of the I/C. Using some cardbourd as a template, i transfered it to som sheet steel and bent and drilled it to make a bracket.

It was fixed in place to test position.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00668.jpg~original)

I cleaned up the back of the crossmember, drilled some holes onto the bracket so it cold be plug welded into position.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00677.jpg~original)

I started with the centre and N/S again The 3rd one is part done and will possibly finish that tomorrow and start the boost piping.  :smiley:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00678.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 19:59
Started having a go at running the boost pipes.

Bought some stainless bends. Unpolished, but may polish then at a later date. I wanted to make it all in one piece but realised it would be hard to remove if needed, so i will add some silicon bits in there as i have already bought some.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10252.jpg~original)

I then started cutting the pipes to connect to the hot side of the I/C.

This connects to the I/C and bend slightly so it clears the alternator. It will be tacked into position with the MIG and taken to work and TIG welded.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10260.jpg~original)

It connects to the I/C (hot side) as shown, going up through next to the chassis arm. Had to trim quite a bit of the front panel to get it to fit.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10257.jpg~original)

It the comes int the bay past the A/C compressor and left slightly away from the alternator . It looks close to the Compressor in the pic but theres plenty of room.[;)]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10259.jpg~original)

This is roughly how it runs from the turbo. Also had to leave space for the fuel pipes to go on. Still need adjustment though. Hump hose may not be used yet, but pipe will be secured to the block using the clamp from a TT/S3 20v. Also need to find space for BOV in the pipe.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10258.jpg~original)

First i finished th I/C brackets on the back of the crossmember and painted it black. You cwont be able to see it so its not too pretty. I also welded in some strengtheners to the front to stop the plate flexing.

Front

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10278.jpg~original)

Back

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10277.jpg~original)

I then finished off running the boost pipes from the cold side of the I/C up to the TB.

Silicone elbow from the outlet to a stainless 45 deg pipe behind headlight.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10270.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10272.jpg~original)

Finished with 90 deg stainless bend to the TB. All pipe is 2.25" or 57mm. Still need a few hose clamp to finish it off. It cant be seen but i shortened the clamp holding the Air con hoses to give room for the pipe and trimmed a tab off the battery tray.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10274.jpg~original)

This is how it looks at the mo.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10276.jpg~original)

Took out hump hose connector and replaced with pipe. Held temp until i decide where i should put the BOV.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10275.jpg~original)

Had to mod the boost pipe to the TB because the angle wasn't right. Would have possibly caused a leak if left as it was. Also found a bit of inch stainless pipe at work so i could use it for the BOV connection. Pipes were cut filed and tacked into place.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10285.jpg~original)

Here's how the BOV fits. Bought a S/H Bailey DV24.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10284.jpg~original)

Still waiting to get it TIG welded. Half tempted to MIG it though. :undecided:

Been thinking how i could fit gauges into the MK3. With not many options i decided to try this. Found inspiration from something similar on Vortex.

Started with this.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10287.jpg~original)

After lots of careful cutting and filing it ended up like this:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10288.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10290.jpg~original)

With gauge fitted. For those who don't know. It's the cowling around the steering column.[;)]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10291.jpg~original)

I'll be putting another one in on the LHS and prob use these for boost and oil pressure. Will have to find a place for AFR gauge, preferably without using pillar mounts.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:02
Wrapped the DP

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10295.jpg~original)

Fitted a 12" slimline fan. Still have to buy and fit another one in the week.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10297.jpg~original)


Also finished off my column gauge pods. This is how the fit in the car.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10307.jpg~original)

This is them lit up. You can still see all the gauges and warning light when in position. Can't see from pic.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10301.jpg~original)

After being let down by Eurospeed big time with my turbo oil feed and returns,  decided i would make my own, (oil inlet at least). Luckily i had an inlet gasket to use as a template.

Had some 10mm bar lying around at work so marked out the shape and first drilled mounting holes.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10308.jpg~original)

The piece was then filed to the correct shape and then Drilled and tapped for a -4 adapter. I used a M10x1.25 tap and got a fitting to suit.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10310.jpg~original)

Here's the parts i used. Homemade flange, -4 jic to M10x1.25 adapter and copper sealing washer.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10309.jpg~original)

Assembled

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10311.jpg~original)

Fitted to turbo, Also showing water return

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10312.jpg~original)

The other end of the oil feed , engine side. Used a -4 jic to M10x1.0 adapter to make connection.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10313.jpg~original)

This is where i took the turbo water feed from . I used -6 pipe for this. and an adaper to connect to the head M14 i think.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10315.jpg~original)

I wanted to get the Turbo drain sorted. Rather than take the Turbo off again for a template i managed to get a flange from 034 motorsports, through INA engineering for a decent shipping price.[:y:] As $37 for a small flange was a bit much. All i needed to get was a 1/2"NPT to AN10 fitting to connect my hose.

(http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/650/h/643/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi|phpThumb/watermarks/034watermark|C|20|0/hash/b1e8ca43e6d98b2f65190eaf2f2f333f/src/images/KKK_oil_drain_flange.jpg)

Oil drain flange bolted to turbo. Still need a 45deg hose end to complete it.[:[]
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Drainflangeandfitting.jpg~original)

This is how i'll get around the driveshaft. 90deg hose end connects to a 45deg female/male coupler. It gives a tight angle to keep hose next to the block. I want to still use heat shield to keep heat away from inner CV joint so may have to mod it for the drain to still work.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10324.jpg~original)

In the mean time i ordered my RS Autosport loom.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10316.jpg~original)

And a Universal filter that i'll be making a heatshied for.. Hopefully should flow enough air for my target power. Also the hose connected to the filter is Fuel filler hose (got it cheap) that is smooth lined so it should be better for airflow.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10318.jpg~original)

In the loom there are lots of spare wires so used these and started making up an injector loom. I'm goin to use as much of the existing loom as poss, to save ripping it out. The injector loom an other sensors will stay connected to the 28 pin plug that i STILL can't undo but obviously shortening and resoldering where necessary.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10320.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10321.jpg~original)

Also had to remove gearbox so i could change clutch. Goin to put a VR6 clutch in. Got a sachs one on order. Not sure whether to lighten flywheel or not while its off and get a 02j shift tower and shifter?? Also took driveshaft off as i had to replace split CV boot.

List goes on and on..

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10317.jpg~original)

Had the boost pipes Tig welded, had to grind the insides of the pipes as they weren't purged with argon at the time.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/boostpipeswelded.jpg~original)

Whilst the gearbox was off and flywheel sent to Hotgolf i started to tackle the wiring. Had to trace all the wires from ECU and 28 pin plug, so i could keep the loom in place. Will just tap into the fusebox and insert inline fuses where necessary. Having Elsawin is a godsend.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/more_wiring.jpg~original)

Most of the unused wires were trimmed off and all wires were cross referenced to the diagrams and belled out to make sure. Unused injector wires from plug were used for IAT and oil sender so i didn't have to run new ones. T piece also fitted for sender. Had to get a the D shaped plug for the IAT sensor from VW. P/N 1j0 973 702. if anyone needs it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IATwiring.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Tpiecesender.jpg~original)

Because i am using existing lambda bung in cat, I had to fit controller on chassis rail .

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/WB_controller.jpg~original)

ECU plug cut off and wires labelled. The unused wires were trimmed back, not to short incase i may need them at a later date.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/wiring_labels.jpg~original)

To get wires into cabin, i couldn't use the usual large grommet by the passenger side as it aleady had some 0 gauge power cable in it. So had to find another. A large grommet under wiper motor was ideal (looks like its for a clutch cable). I put boost gauge pipe, and MS loom through using some smaller grommets. Still may need another for the Wideband controller wires.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/wiring_grommet.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:05
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10329.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/SDC10330.jpg)

Got the fittings to finish oil drain. Luckily i could use original heat shield, which seems to protect inner CV from exhaust. Had to cut a hole in  it and feed drain through it. Bottom clears the drivshaft o.k. Water feed was also connected up. Heat shield mat was also used on the bulkhead and over some of the oil/water lines.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/oildrain_waterfeed.jpg)

Bought some S2 plugs, I guessed as the engine was running the turbo and they where a heat range colder than the ABF, They should be ok.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/S2plugs.jpg)

I had no way of securing the longer VR6 throttle cable, I used the One from the ABF manifold, positioned and Drilled & tapped the inlet to keep it in place. I used Threadlock/sealer to prevent ant leaks through the thread.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Cableholder.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Throttle_cable.jpg)

I still had an AFR guage to fit and the best place for me was in the centre console. Wiring took a while as i wanted to follow existing wire runs to prevent chaffing. Don't want any fires.[:x] Also needed 2 power feeds(fused) unlike the other gauges.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/AFRwiring1.jpg)

With gauge in place, Cal button and led is fitted above.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/AFRgauge.jpg)

I finished off soldering the looms together and connecting al the various sensor wires and relavent fuses. Most of the feeds use the origanal relay/fusebox outputs with separate inline fuses used where necessary. There are lots of spares on the loom for any extra functions.[:y:] The connections were checked and double check with a meter to make sure they were right. Fingers crossed i didn't miss any :huh:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/loomwires.jpg)

The loom enters the cabin through a grommet under the wiper motor and ends up behind the glove box. Vaccum line runs with this and the boost gauge pipe Tees into this so i can see vacuum on the gauge too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/loominside.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Twinfancircuit.jpg)

After designing the twin fan circuit i bought the components. These were a

1X 30A SPDT relay (maplins)
1X male plug to connect to existing fan plug with 2.5 wires and seals
Various female spade connectors.

This was wired together and placed on the front panel just above fans. It was tested and works how it should.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00726.jpg)

Had a tidy of the wiring. T28a is being used and any unused wires where used for other things like IAT and oil pressure sender etc. I've left ISV connector in place if i decide to use one at a later date.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00719.jpg)

Fuse box showing inline fuses for injectors, ECU, wideband controller and AFR gauge.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00721.jpg)

Had to find a solution for the servo vacuum line. Tried chopping the original to make it fit but didn't want it to run behind the turbo. Went to a breakers and found one from a caddy diesel that runs exactly how i needed it. You can just about see it go straight out of to servo and down.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00732.jpg)

Non return valve with connection for AC recirc flap line

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00730.jpg)

Wanted to secure the boost pipe from the turbo. I used the clamp thats found on a BAM 20v. It was too big to clamp the pipe so had to weld a slice of tube iside it to give a tight fit. A bracket was made to secure it to the head.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00736.jpg)


Air filter fitted nd secured to inner wing. Would ideally like a heatshield but that can wait.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00734.jpg)

How it stands now. Engine work complete as far as i can tell.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00737.jpg)

Been filled with oil and turned over intil pressure got up. Need to do a few more mods on the ecu and put interior panels back and its ready for mapping.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:08
I removed the turbo Due tosmoke. Was i bit awkward but had to be done. Gonna get it checked out by a specialist.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Turboremoved.jpg)

Whilst it was off i took a pick of what i had to grind down to allow it to fit on easier. That part used to get stuck on the clutch pipe.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/turboground.jpg)

Picked up the turbo yesterday. Very happy with the outcome. [:D] Looks like new.

Great service from Turbo Developments (http://"http://www.turbodevelopments.co.uk/") in Brentford. They explained exactly what the problem was and rectified it. It needed oversize ring seals and housing needed machining to fit them. Very reasonable prices too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00781.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00782.jpg)

Its now fitted and connected up. Changed oil and filter. Started it up until it was was warm. No signs of any smoke yet.[:)]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00783.jpg)

Forgot to add a pic of how the bumper was modded for the Intercooler. Had to cut out outer slats and grind down the others until it fit. Drivers side still sticks out more, even though rad was moved back.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/FMIC_Bumper.jpg)

Job Done and mapped!...

It seems the mk3 coil isn't very strong. In MS whilst mapping there was a misfire at 50% fixed dwell. So it was increased to 75%. Not long after the coil died.[:^(] .

I was thinking abount using a single coil but that would mean modding th Megasquirt again to use the internal ignitors and also the Mk2 TCI-h system. But I wanted a more compact unit. I then found one from a passat 9A. It a similar design to the MK2 but has a close coupled ignition amp mounted on the same bracket.

(http://shop.vws.me.uk/ekmps/shops/stevensvw/images/%5B1%5D(9).JPG)

I didn't want to start cutting up my loom so orderd a male plug and wires from VW.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/malecoiladapter.jpg)

This was connected to the coil via spade connectors (until i get a female plug). And the wires were connected up to the corresponding connections. A hole was drilled to secure it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Coilinplace.jpg)

It fired up and ran straight away. We'll see how long this lasts. Fingers crossed. :angry:

Went over to Garage Streamline to see the results of all my hard work has come to.. After watching Vw singh's little Mk1 do its thing, I had my go on the rollers.

Most of the mapping had been done on the road and the final little tweeks were to be done on the chassis Dyno.

The car was strapped up and the first run was performed.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_ABF_turbo1st_run.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=ABF_turbo1st_run.flv)

This gave Toyotec somewhere to start.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/1strunplot.jpg)

I think the idea was to smooth out the curve, reduce a bit of the peak torque and maybe let the torque hang around longer to give a higher hp.

A few more runs and it started to improve, the torque curve started flattening which smooth the Hp curve around 6k. Boost was kept the same, peaking at around 1 bar then drops off down to around 0.5 bar near the limit. A boost controller may help this.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/dynoruns.jpg)

Toyetec continued fettling and we increased the boost a bit more and this started happening. Misfires.[:^(] Not sure if the squiggly line is one but there is definately one later on.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_AbfT_misfires.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=AbfT_misfires.flv)

As the car got hotter it seemed to get worse, as soon as the torque peaked it would miss quite bad and drop power off. Conclusion was the new coil amplifier that I had fitted wasn't up to the job either [:x]. It was getting late (and cold) so the boost was turned down a tad and a final run was done.

261lbft of torque and 242bhp.[:y:] Not bad for home grown. And more than my expected target when i first started the build.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ABFk24Dynorun17_2_2010_misfires.jpg)

Circle show that the misfires are there but it still an improvment on the 1st run. It's noticeable on the road too. Much smoother, but still the tyres struggle to overcome the rapid onset of torque. It a good road setup torque just where you need it. Maybe too much though. :shocked:



Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:16
Some more pictures on the dyno

A standard looking mk3 16v with a little added Torque.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/carondyno.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0761.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0764.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0772.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0775.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0785.jpg~original)


Had to sort out my coil issue. Decided to split the "new" coil arrangement and go for the ms driven arrangement like shown.

(http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual_files/v3one-coil.gif)
Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!!


I already had the circuit on the MS board but i added Resistor R43 because i wanted to scope the dwell. I also had to add the link between IGBOUT and IGN and remove the old spark connections.

The coil connections were changed easily to the diagram as wires were already in place.

In the software the setting were changed to the settings shown. And the then car started as before.
I wanted to see how the dwell trace looked so connected the scope across R43.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/MS_R43.jpg~original)

I started with lower settings and altered them higher than than suggested also to see how the curve changed. It was not easy to see the effects of different settings so kept the standard setting for now. Here's a trace. Not sure if it's right , but driver wasn't getting hot so left it like that for now.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DwellScope.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00840.jpg~original)

Car seems to drive ok but getting some stumbling when accelerating from idle. Unsure if its connected to the spark dwell or Accel enrichments. Need to sort it. :shocked: Did a datalog of it. You can see it goin lean as the the throttle is pressed. Shown by Tpdot and AFR(WB02)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Accelerationlog-1.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:17
Now the cars got some "Go" i've been wanting to sort out the "show".

I bought some merc wheels quite a while ago that needed refurbing. I've been sorting them out slowly, learning as i go.

I started out by removing the original lacquer from the rims only as they were going to be polished. And sanded them with 240-400grit paper and WD40 to remove the maching marks.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00852.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/wheel1.jpg)

Rather than keep sanding through the grades, i got the course mop out and started polishing. This removed the sanding marks made earlier and started to look a little polished.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/wheelstage2.jpg)

I continued polishing throught the finer mops and compounds till i was happy with the finish.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00853.jpg)

Wheels were masked up ready for painting.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00854.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00855.jpg)

The wheels were prepped according to condition and i also cleaned the insides of any bubbled paint.
Some were worse and needed etch primer.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00800.jpg)

Then i used filler primer to sort any imperfections. This was rubbed down smooth afterwards using wet and dry. (Not all wheels needed this though).

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00801.jpg)

The base coat was then applied after using panel wipes and tack cloths to get rid of grease and dust. I went with a few caots of Ford graphite grey.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00802.jpg)

Lacquer went over the top of that. Centre caps were rubbed down and painted the same.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00858.jpg)

Luckily i didnt get much dust or any runs in the paint. The first wheel shown here was a bit dusty looking and had some orange peel but im happy with the result. I can flat and polish them after  the paints hardened.

A comparison.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00811.jpg)

The first wheel attempt. :undecided: Picture makes it look a bit worse than it is. Rim has a bit of masking tape glue left on it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00828.jpg)

I've also got some more supportive seats to fit.  :grin:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00827.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:19
Had to figure out how i was going to fit the Boxster seats into the golf without having to hack the floorpan and still be able to fit original seats back if needed.

I first decided to use a height adjustable seat bases from some old seats that i had. They are lower than the standard and  allow me to sit in the car without having my head on the headling. I chopped these from the rest of the seat and was left with this after trimming excess metal from them.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Mk3seatframe.jpg~original)

The seat was then placed i the car and aligned over and over until i was happy with the position.  Because the seats are similar to the mk5 runners where you bolt to the floor, I had to position them so i could sit in them at there lowest point, and the mrs could use the height adjustment for the best driving position.

I Got some box tubing and Nuts and bolts from B&Q and made up some runners for the seats to bolt to.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Seatrunners.jpg~original)

I then had to mate this up to the mk3 seat runner. I used some more box section and welded them together after getting correct position. Here its shown with runners sprayed black.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Runnerscomplete.jpg~original)

The seat are electric and i wired them up to the fused board via a fuse and they are in and working nicely. [:)] Very supportive too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_0007.jpg~original)

Wanted to add a bit more detail to the interior. I bought some black Colour Concept door cards but had the dilema of them not matching them with the seats.  I looked into leather dyeing and rather than recolour the seats to black i decided to recolour the door cards.

I bought a small leather colourant kit from the Furniture clinic (http://"http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.htm") as i was impressed with what was possible with their kits and thought it was the answer to what i needed.

I had to send a sample of leather from the seats so they could get an exact colour match.

Once i got the kit back i started to change the colour of the leather on the door cards.

Heres how i did one. It comes with good instructions and is very easy to do if you prepare it properly

I first masked the door card carefully around the leather panel that was to be dyed.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/3a813f2a.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/0f61cf2e.jpg~original)

The panel was then prepped with the leather prep on a scotch pad. This removes the top layer of the leather. You then have to wipe the leather down with the alcohol cleaner to fully prep the leather for colour.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/80461bc3.jpg~original)

Once dry you then add some base coats of dye using a sponge. This was after 3 sponged on coats.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d43dc517.jpg~original)

To get a better even finish the dye then should be sprayed on using the airbrush supplied.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/f0fa9c64.jpg~original)

You can see the streaks are gone and is starting to look like leather.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/a52b9a72.jpg~original)

You then have to seal the leather to make it hard wearing and scuff resistant. This is a glossy finish. which is used first then i have to add a matt finish on top to match the finish on the seats.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d560b5a0.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/9a454b04.jpg~original)

Here's how it looks on the door. with the final finish.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/663a5700.jpg~original)

And compared to the seats. Its a very good match and i'm impressed with the kit.[:*:]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/e7f78087.jpg~original)

I also did the rear door cards but not fitted yet until i sort out the rear seats.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/3c10ebd9.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6d3c0947.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:20
To help with inlet temps, I wanted to separate the air filter with a form of heat shield but with the boost pipes in the way, I couldn't use existing airbox.

I managed to trim the base of the ABF airbox to fit in it's original position and fit my existing filter in place. The front if the box was removed too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/09ea41e3.jpg)

Once this was in place, I needed to block off the rest of the area from the rest of the bay. I used the airbox lid and fabricated a shield from some ally sheet, riveted to the lid.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6f1ea676.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/3519ea59.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/38fabf4f.jpg)

With it fitted in place with some added pipe insulation for a better seal.

  (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ff9d9623.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/a5ce58e8.jpg)

I've not managed to test if there is any improvement as yet but it must help.

I want to reactivate the fan after run system to help cool under the bonnet when engine has been running but switched off.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:22
A while ago i bought a rear leather bench that was in need of a refurb. It been done a while but other things have got in the way.

They were initially grey but had them colour matched to the boxsters grey.

A few pics of refurb. Just one of the seat bases with lots of discolouration, creases and cracks.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/f6da4bd8.jpg)

If the cracks are large like i had, they would need filling.. Like so..

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c2dc8b9e.jpg)

After rubbing down smooth and applying the dye, it looked like this.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/450ffe8f.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/f1319b0c.jpg)

And fitted.  I also have the headrests to finish.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/3683829e.jpg)

I had to wait to fit the rear seats and cards so i could recover and fit the A,B and C pillars. These were covered in black vinyl and the headling in Faux suede.

Crappy pic but you get the idea. Just need the handles and sunvisors now.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/393a220e.jpg)

Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:23
After getting a phelonic inlet gasket. I decided to fit it and check how it affects inlet temps.

Its not a proper before and after test because temperature measurements werent taken before the gasket was fitted, but i know that i couldn't touch the inlet without it burning!

I got the engine up to temp, went for a run, which included WOT at max boost, some high speed cruising and some stop start.

I stopped the engine and got temperature readings of the rocker cover (Similar to Cylinder head ) and inlet manifold with a laser thermometer. I also took note of CLT and MAT in Megatune.

Megatune readings CLT 87ºC  MAT 27ºC. Top reading is Coolant temp.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c59b2551.jpg)

Rocker cover reading 87ºC

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/16f4e56e.jpg)

Inlet manifold reading  35ºC I can touch and hold the manifold.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/61bee5e6.jpg)

I wanted to see how it heatsoaked after around 15mins. Previously it was noted that MAT readings in Megatune would get quite high and take a while to reduce once engine was restarted. The car would have to be driven for around 5mins for inlet temps to reduce to under 40ºC if over 50ºC.

Megatune readings after 15mins CLT 83ºC  MAT 53ºC

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/2d1592e3.jpg)

Rocker cover reading after 15mins 91ºC

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d68a1043.jpg)

Inlet manifold reading after 15mins 51ºC Could still touch manifold without it burning

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7a2f25eb.jpg)

I also did some datalogs whilst driving, and found that inlet max and min temperatures were lower in general and the temps were slower to increase especially when throttle is closed on over run. This is probably due to inlet being a lower temp to start with and not heating the slow moving air in this condition.

In conclusion, i feel it has had a significant effect on inlet temps whilst driving which should prevent ignition being retarded as temps rise. Also, although it hasn't stopped heat soak effects. Once the engine starts and cooler air get drawn into the inlet, it doesn't take long for temperatures to decrease and no longer needs to be driven to see temps reduce to a satisfactory level..
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:24
More tinkering...

Got fed up of my idle changing everycouple of weeks due to the the throttle stop on the throttle body not being very secure. This causes bad cold starts and varying idle AFRs which i find i'm adjusting warm up bins alot.

I decided i wanted a more reliable and adjustable throttle stop/idle screw. I used the original throttle stop and made a small steel block up with a tapped M4 hole.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7bc0e376.jpg)

This was then welded to the plate and painted up. I then fixed it down with contact adhesive and screwed it into position. A temporary bolt was found and screwed in.
Now my idle should be a bit more stable and wont need contant adjusment.[:)]

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d1253150.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on Megasquirt Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 20:26
Been wanting to sort the brakes out a bit. So first job to do was change to some braided lines and some DOT5.1 brake fluid.

Whilst the car was jacked up I was looking round underneath and I noticed that I could see some carpet.  :angry: It looked like the usual rusted grommets. Started on the passenger side and thought I'd better check the other and it was the same. So I got out the welder and sheet metal and started to work. 

Removed interior and carpet and found this.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/79a78c79.jpg)

It wasn't that bad, but had to cut it all out.


Passenger side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/64d11b53.jpg)

Drivers side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/422c8f78.jpg)

Welded in the plate from the inside and smoothed off the welds with a flap disc.

Tacked in drivers side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/abb4d804.jpg)

Passenger side smoothed off
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/7df1642f.jpg)

Both sides, inside and out were cleaned up, sprayed with zinc primer then seam sealed on the welds.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/870b6bcb.jpg)

Then the inside was painted with some satin black and the outside was undersealed.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/142c4887.jpg)

Not a clear picture but it got through the mot.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/349b1dd2.jpg)

Those grommets are a nightmare. I think the others will need looking at as I notice some underseal has split but not rusted through yet.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 04 March 2011, 21:21
Awesome build,  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 21:40
Cheers! Bodywork and a few more things yet.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: benvictors on 04 March 2011, 22:13
What a read  :shocked:  :grin:
Excellent work  :drool:
Loving the seats, will have to check out that dye stuff, wanna change my leathers from Mulberry to black
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 March 2011, 23:40
Yea. It's possible. And is very effective stuff. Just takes some preparation and they supply everything you need.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: dubsport on 05 March 2011, 15:43
amazing build mate!! looking forward to seeing it with the wheels on!! cant believe how good you have repaired the seats!!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 16:06
Cheers Hopefully wheels and bodywork will be done soon. :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 17:33
Thought i'd update the thread with some more recent work!

The next stage of the project was find an 02J Tower and shifter, to improve on the mk3 not so precise shift.

I found an early type of tower with ball connections and converted it to the later type. and got a TT short shifter.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6682aece.jpg~original)

Found an 02J mk4 shifter and cables but wanted to fit it without cutting the tunnel brackets. So found a complete shift housing from an IBiza that would do the job. Swapped cables and ready to be installed.

Mk4 shifter top and Ibiza shifter bottom.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/a79005f3.jpg~original)

Before this could be fitted, i would need to remove exhaust.

That got me thinking about the Cat and how restrictive it would is.  So I purchased a Hi flow cat from the states. Hopefully i will give some performance benefits too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/19a46e0c.jpg~original)

I need to get some fittings then the shifter and cat will be fitted.

I've also got to get the body work tidied up. I had a spare tailgate and wanted to clean up the rear end. That would mean smoothing the wiper and the lock hole so i could have a smooth plinth.

Wiper Hole Smoothing

After removing all the rear wiper gubbins and protecting the glass from grinder sparks and weld spatter, I marked out a square around the hole as a guide for the dremel and started cutting.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/1b1bb3fa.jpg~original)

And continued until the section was cut out.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/85fa39aa.jpg~original)

Area was cleaned up with an grinder with flap wheel attachement. Then masking tape was put over the hole and shape was marked out with a pen.  The shape is then transfered to sheet metal to give you your filler piece. This can be cut out with snips or a jigsaw would be neater.

 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/001afe1b.jpg~original)

The filler piece was trimmed to fit the hole an was welded in with small tacks all the way round. I did a few tacks and colled them with an air line to minimise distortion. Then the welds were grond smooth.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/86248ead.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/01faa533.jpg~original)

Then i added a skim of filler to cover it over. It should give the paintshop less to do .

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/8a155e57.jpg~original)


Whilst i was doing that i toyed with the idea of relocating the lock under the plinth but was too much hassle and decided instead to smooth the lock hole over and use a boot popper on this instead.

Same principle was used to get the filler piece made, bnut it needed to be bent in shape to fit properly.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c058ea60.jpg~original)

This shows how it fitted, held in place with some masking tape from behind.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6a737519.jpg~original)

Then it was tacked in all the way round and ground smooth.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/5bd84218.jpg~original)

Will be sent to bodyshop to be prepped and painted. Then i'll have to make a smooth plinth.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: mark-mk3gti on 05 March 2011, 18:49
amazing mate, just sat and read through it all! well done! and keep up the amazing work!!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tech1889 on 05 March 2011, 19:02
Read this when you linked me to the other site.. top work as ive said before mate !
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: dazzawest1987 on 05 March 2011, 19:06
really impressed mate, quality build. what colours the car going?
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 19:53
Thanks for the comments. Staying black. Nothing too far away from OEM i think.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 05 March 2011, 19:57
Are you going to loose the badge recess as well.  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 20:04
Are you going to loose the badge recess as well.  :smiley:

No.. Thought about it. But but decided it may not go with how the car will look. As the bumpers will be staying textured tops but no arches. Subtle mods i think, Nothing to suggest what it has under the bonnet :cool:.
 I will either paint the badge black or carbon fibre wrap it.  :undecided:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 20:16
amazing build mate!! looking forward to seeing it with the wheels on!! cant believe how good you have repaired the seats!!

Did a Mock up how on how they should look. Adapter will be sized to fill the arch. On the rear i have some lupo stub axle spacers which space the rears 10mm. With an adapter of 20mm (which i have) it gives an offset of ET11 where as on the front a 20mm adaptor will give ET21. 7.5" width and a 195/45-16 tyre should fill the arches nicely. I have an arch roller to clearance the arches.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DSC00830.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: shepgti on 05 March 2011, 20:18
such a nice engine deserves better wheels imo :undecided:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 05 March 2011, 20:43
such a nice engine deserves better wheels imo :undecided:

Wanna buy me some? :laugh: I have got some 928's also. We'll see how it pans out.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: shepgti on 05 March 2011, 20:45
such a nice engine deserves better wheels imo :undecided:

Wanna buy me some? :laugh:

do some drag races for cash :grin: (dont tell em whats under the bonnet!  :laugh:)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 05 March 2011, 21:19
Are you going to loose the badge recess as well.  :smiley:

No.. Thought about it. But but decided it may not go with how the car will look. As the bumpers will be staying textured tops but no arches. Subtle mods i think, Nothing to suggest what it has under the bonnet :cool:.
 I will either paint the badge black or carbon fibre wrap it.  :undecided:

Black badge or carbon will look ace  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: thai-wronghorse on 05 March 2011, 21:35
This is one of the best mk3 builds Ive read in a long time. Awesome work TShirt.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 19 March 2011, 13:54
After having an annoying problem with the headlights (HID's) stalling the engine i went through lots of testing of wiring, replacement of ballast and installation of an uprated headlight loom.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ca0c30de.jpg)

I fixed the relays using an existing hole on the strut housing. And spliced into the existing headlight wiring that runs along the front panel.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b5cc3a5f.jpg)

This improved the lights but made no difference to the headlight fault, so moved onto testing alternator, as battery was replaced recently. Alternator was tested at the battery as 13.3v. I realised this wasn't good so tried to clean connections.
This turned out to be a bad idea because the nut siezed and caused the stud to spin in the alternator, forcing me to find a replacement.  :angry:

The alternator was replaced and the cabling was upgraded with some 4awg cable and gold terminals had in the garage, as the original cable looked a bit old and brittle.

After that the voltage at the battery terminals was 14.4v -14.6v.  :cool:

But...... The headlight problem got worse. The engine would now completly stall at idle and would need to be revved to keep it going as the lights were switched on.  :cry:

So, It got me thinking about the MS, as this controls the FPR and its that that switches off and turns of injectors, wideband etc. It seems that when the lights are switched on, there is a surge or dip in voltage and the MS resets. This was confirmed with the laptop connected and in megatune.

Did some research and found this. Taken from here on the post from W113

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=149614#149614 (http://"http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=149614#149614")

Quote
My understanding is that you have defined the "surges" as the cause of the hesitation and that the resets come at WOT .
The processor resets that I have experienced in MS1 have all been in connection with either disturbances in the power supply or radiated/conducted disturbances finding their way to pin 6 RSTinv.
I would try the following ( observing the + 5V on a scope would be a great help)
Power supply/ injectors
Make sure that + and ground leads are of decent size and that no major ground loops exists. (There was a recent post which got rid of disturbances by electricaly isolating the MS box from the firewall !)
Arrange so that the flyback + feed is separated from the +12V in feed to the MS(several posts exists on this )
Try out a LC filter in the +lead

CPU
Install 100nF mylar caps directly between pins 1/2 , 19/20 and 31/32.
Solder the caps irectly on the socket pins. This could help the +5V
Install a 100nF cap between pin 6(RSTinv) and a ground very close by .
Pin 6 is quite sensitive to disturbances. Even a scope probe of 50Mohms/8pF which is touched to pin 6 will cause a reset.
With the 100nF cap added the RSTinv (pin6) becomes quite insensitive.

I did this mod after buying some capacitors and I have turned the lights on and off repeatedly with no stuttering or stalling. Also did it again this morning as i had my doubts, but it was rock solid. Hopefully any random misfires i was getting on the odd occasion under load will stop too.

I have also found that since doing this, it also reduces the stumble you get when you "burn to ECU".
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: murraymint on 22 March 2011, 20:20
those mrk wheels look feckin awesome!!!!! loving the polished rim
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Diamond Hell on 22 March 2011, 20:34
Lovely engine, shame you're running HIDs, as it marks you out as something of an ar$e.

Those relays would power a set of good quality bulbs very well and provide plenty of legal lighting.

Hey ho.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: SoundillusioN on 22 March 2011, 20:36
Somehow missed this but phenomenal work so far. :afro:

Agree on the HID's.  Can't stand them on cars that shouldn't have them.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 22 March 2011, 22:09
Lovely engine, shame you're running HIDs, as it marks you out as something of an ar$e.

Those relays would power a set of good quality bulbs very well and provide plenty of legal lighting.

Hey ho.

Does it? Everything you seem to say marks you as something of a sad little boy. Those relays may provide power to something you like putting up yours.  :wink:

I've made sure my lights don't blind other drivers.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: benvictors on 22 March 2011, 22:11
Lovely engine, shame you're running HIDs, as it marks you out as something of an ar$e.

Those relays would power a set of good quality bulbs very well and provide plenty of legal lighting.

Hey ho.

Does it? Everything you seem to say marks you as something of a sad little boy. Those relays may provide power to something you like putting up yours.  :wink:

 :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: F17BAD on 22 March 2011, 22:16
 :grin: :grin:

I like this T Shirt Guy lots

Cool car BTW  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 22 March 2011, 22:17
:grin: :grin:

I like this T Shirt Guy lots

Cool car BTW  :cool:

Cheers mate.

Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Bellend on 22 March 2011, 22:29
Lovely engine, shame you're running HIDs, as it marks you out as something of an ar$e.

Those relays would power a set of good quality bulbs very well and provide plenty of legal lighting.

Hey ho.

Does it? Everything you seem to say marks you as something of a sad little boy. Those relays may provide power to something you like putting up yours.  :wink:

I've made sure my lights don't blind other drivers.

 :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:

Looking good mate.  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: archie837 on 23 March 2011, 10:32
Amazing build!

I am very jealous at how you seem to be good at everything on this. Kinda agree on the HID, but if you figured it out so it doesn't dazzle others, then all good!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: SoundillusioN on 23 March 2011, 10:55
Kinda agree on the HID, but if you figured it out so it doesn't dazzle others, then all good!

Projector lenses, self levellers and washers?
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: archie837 on 23 March 2011, 11:06
Kinda agree on the HID, but if you figured it out so it doesn't dazzle others, then all good!

Projector lenses, self levellers and washers?

Maybe just driving really really fast everywhere so they're not blinded for long :tongue:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 23 March 2011, 12:53
I'm sure this thread was about how to turbocharge a mk3 ABF? Because as ive found, theres not many informative threads about.  :undecided: Unless it has a 20vT.

Maybe a thread about a mk3 with hid's would be more interesting?? We could talk about ellipsoidal projectors, self levellers and the like.  :huh: 

And yes, it is very fast and well mapped. You need to be able to see where you're going at certain times.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: SoundillusioN on 23 March 2011, 13:01
I'm sure this thread was about how to turbocharge a mk3 ABF? Because as ive found, theres not many informative threads about.  :undecided: Unless it has a 20vT.

Maybe a thread about a mk3 with hid's would be more interesting?? We could talk about ellipsoidal projectors, self levellers and the like.  :huh: 

And yes, it is very fast and well mapped. You need to be able to see where you're going at certain times.



This is a fantastic build and thread, there's no denying it.

HIDs always have mixed views but it comes up from people (like myself) who are tired of being blinded by them.  I am yet to see a car that has aftermarket HIDs that actually have a proper beam pattern rather than just scattered blinding light. 
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Khare on 23 March 2011, 13:16
To be fair I've not got problems with aftermarket HID's. The only ones that blind me are from tall range rovers when oncoming or following me, otherwise they're fine by me.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 23 March 2011, 13:17
I get the point. But it's not a hid thread. Maybe we should just stick to the topic.

I'm not looking for praise, just sharing some knowledge with others who may be interested. Because I couldn't find anything when I was searching.  The hid's were mentioned due to a problem that pointed to the sensitivity of the megasquirt.

I know all about them. But I choose to have them. Just like I choose a mk3 over the preferred mk2 or mk1.

The debate can go on forever..but as I have seen in other threads insults are another story. But it seems acceptable on here for some reason. I can trade them all day but it's not big ir clever and it spoils the tone of the thread/forum.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: SoundillusioN on 23 March 2011, 13:24
I get the point. But it's not a hid thread. Maybe we should just stick to the topic.

I'm not looking for praise, just sharing some knowledge with others who may be interested. Because I couldn't find anything when I was searching.  The hid's were mentioned due to a problem that pointed to the sensitivity of the megasquirt.

I know all about them. But I choose to have them. Just like I choose a mk3 over the preferred mk2 or mk1.

The debate can go on forever..but as I have seen in other threads insults are another story. But it seems acceptable on here for some reason. I can trade them all day but it's not big ir clever and it spoils the tone of the thread/forum.


Not insulting nor do I care enough for it to turn into a debate, it was point that I backed, that is all.  :lipsrsealed:  :lipsrsealed:

Continue with the good sh*t.  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 23 March 2011, 13:35
I get the point. But it's not a hid thread. Maybe we should just stick to the topic.

I'm not looking for praise, just sharing some knowledge with others who may be interested. Because I couldn't find anything when I was searching.  The hid's were mentioned due to a problem that pointed to the sensitivity of the megasquirt.

I know all about them. But I choose to have them. Just like I choose a mk3 over the preferred mk2 or mk1.

The debate can go on forever..but as I have seen in other threads insults are another story. But it seems acceptable on here for some reason. I can trade them all day but it's not big ir clever and it spoils the tone of the thread/forum.


Not insulting nor do I care enough for it to turn into a debate, it was point that I backed, that is all.  :lipsrsealed:  :lipsrsealed:

Continue with the good sh*t.  :smiley:

That's good. :afro: Reference to insults wasn't aimed at you  :wink:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Khare on 23 March 2011, 13:37
I wasn't insulting either, as I said I've got no problem with them  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tigerj360 on 23 March 2011, 13:54
great build mate! some great info too, you certainly know your sh1t!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 17 June 2011, 15:02
Decided to do start the jobs a was supposed to do when i crushed my finger :sick:. Ie: change to mk4 style shifter and tower and fit hi flow cat.

So first few jobs were to removed the old cat. Lucky that i decided to change it, because it looks like it's had it. Plus its around 6 kilos compared to 2.8 kilos for the new one. Seems partially blocked and like a maraca when you shake it. Must be affecting emissions and possibly engine output.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b03008c5.jpg~original)

Here's the cat comparison. Original is double the weight of the new one. Had to get extension piece made up. But it's around 10mm too long so I'm going to lose it off the end of the cat.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/9234e8a6.jpg~original)

To convert the 02a shift arrangement to 02j, you need the tower that goes into the gearbox. I also added the TT short shift lever

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6682aece.jpg~original)

And the gear shift mechanism. You can modify a mk4 one to fit, which is above. Or may be easier to fit a polo/Lupo/Ibiza one.
 I used mk4 cables and cable bracket with an ibiza cupra shifter housing. Bottom one in the pic.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/a79005f3.jpg~original)

Shift tower on gearbox. Note the later style bowden cable ends

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b386f47b.jpg~original)

Fitted the shifter in, and all gears can be selected. Had to secure front end of shifter with a bolt, some spacer nuts and washers as i didnt fancy welding brackets in. Only thing I don't like is the length of the lever. I'll see how it goes but may have to chop it down a bit.
Shift is short but precise and gears select quite easy. Not driven yet as I have to weld up another rotted bung at the front. [:x].

Still need some bits to fit the exhaust, but thinking about removing centre box and fitting non res section, as it way too quiet.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: sharki786 on 17 June 2011, 22:52
i actualy read your thread from page one and all i can say is you got BIIIIIIIIIIIIG CAHONIES!!! :grin: loving it mate.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 17 June 2011, 23:01
Cheers mate  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 17 June 2011, 23:15
Good progress, hows the finger now.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 17 June 2011, 23:27
Fingers ok. Tendon should be at full strength now. Still can't bend the tip. But at least i still have it. :wink:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 17 June 2011, 23:29
Fingers ok. Tendon should be at full strength now. Still can't bend the tip. But at least i still have it. :wink:

What happened  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 17 June 2011, 23:31
Have a read.

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2055578&postcount=1 (http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2055578&postcount=1)

Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: Wayne on 17 June 2011, 23:36
Have a read.

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2055578&postcount=1 (http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2055578&postcount=1)

Ouch  :shocked: hope it is well on the mind.  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 17 June 2011, 23:38
Alot better than it was.  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: sharki786 on 18 June 2011, 11:41
DAYYYYYYYM. thats a f*cked up hole! how did you manage that?  :lipsrsealed:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 18 June 2011, 11:56
Read the link above the pics.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: sharki786 on 18 June 2011, 23:57
SHEET!!! hope it gets better!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: archie837 on 19 June 2011, 10:14
jesus christ.


Anyway - you got those merc 5 holes on yet? Think they look ace on a mk3
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: CCGTI on 03 August 2011, 21:59
Hi mate, whats happening with this, Brad and ben told me to look at the thread, got to admit the hole engine build lost me as that stuff is more bens shizzle but the interior looks sweet mate, anymore pics mate

Well done :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 August 2011, 22:47
Cheers mate. Cars currently off the road. In the process of repairing and welding up collapsed sill and any rust found under there, which is mainly hidden under the factory underseal and grommets.
You've reminded me to update it.  :wink: I'll get some pics up.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: F17BAD on 03 August 2011, 23:16
told you he knew his sh!t didnt i roger  :wink:

how long till its back on the road russ ?  are you off to edition 38 ??
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 August 2011, 23:35
Whilst changing cat and gear selector, I noticed the neatside front jacking point looked a little worse for wear (folded and a little rusty). Decided to investigate a have a clean up. Started poking around and was a bit shocked as to what I found.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/96424dec.jpg~original)

 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/2de6f720.jpg~original)
The hole at the top is where an existing grommet was. Just a bit enlarged.

Not one to be beaten. I started cutting out the rot. It looked fairly good on the surface but rust had travelled under the sealant.  :angry:

I cut out most of the rot and was left with this.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/287719c7.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b57564ae.jpg~original)

Had to by a complete sill but only used a small section around 12" long and 3" high as it's best to leave existing metal on the car. Also bought some angled repair panels and some thicker gauge to match what's on the car. Then I started putting the puzzle together.

Cut and welded metal for the underneath section trying to replicate original seams where possible.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d5981236.jpg~original)

Then welded in centre strengthening section. This was sprayed with zinc weld through primer to protect it from future rust. This was plug welded to the underneath section previously welded.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7ceee0ad.jpg~original)

Front edge of the repair with wing removed. A new Genuine wing was bought as bottom was rusted through.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/479b7f12.jpg~original)

Then had to trim the outer sill repair panel so I could butt weld in place to make an almost invisible repair so as not to use any filler.

Result after grinding down welds. As you can see it's almost like original without the extra strengthening bulge underneath.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/0f52822b.jpg~original)

Front edge wing side closed up.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/0a5c8d1c.jpg~original)

The repair was treated with phosphoric acid type rust remover and then painted with epoxy mastic and the seam sealed. More pics to follow.





Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 August 2011, 23:38
told you he knew his sh!t didnt i roger  :wink:

how long till its back on the road russ ?  are you off to edition 38 ??

Not sure yet mate. May have to check drivers side first. Once that's done, it's going for paint.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 03 August 2011, 23:42
Would be good to see u at ED38 mate
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: Seanl on 04 August 2011, 09:10
Fair play, that floorpan looks an awful mess, and beyond the capabilities and cost of most. Glad your getting it sorted, you can do evvvveeerrrryyyythiiiiinnnnnggggg!!!  :grin: :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 August 2011, 09:42
Fair play, that floorpan looks an awful mess, and beyond the capabilities and cost of most. Glad your getting it sorted, you can do evvvveeerrrryyyythiiiiinnnnnggggg!!!  :grin: :smiley:

They don't call me Tshirt for nothing. :grin: :grin:

Looks worse than it actually was. :wink: The factory underseal hides alot. Only when you start peeling away does it show whats there.
If you don't wanna find out, dont remove the grommets like i did.  :sad: I have welded up 4 out of the 5 along the underside of that sill where rust has just started. Once rust has been cut out and a plate welded in, a covering of epoxy mastic, seam sealer, some cavity wax inside and underbody wax, it should last.

Nearside of the car is alway worse. Hopefully it wont be (in fact i know) its not same on the other jacking point.  :huh:

I know these are the only parts on the car that have rust, so thats why i chose to repair it.




Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 11 August 2011, 22:41
After welding up, I had to put some protection over the repair. Coated in epoxy resin then some grey stripe seam sealer.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b837b6b8.jpg~original)

Was coated in a few coats of dynax UB.  Inside the sill I filled with some dynax S50 cavity wax.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c85e1db9.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/05900cdb.jpg~original)

Outer sill is coated with some zinc primer for now. Just waiting for my new wing to be painted so I can fit it. I may still have to investigate the other side yet.

Whilst I was at the welding I decided to change the 5th gear for the 0.769 G60 gear set following the guides found around the web.
Surprised how easy it was. Only need to use the pullers for the big gear. The small gear was able to be levered off. The replacement small gear was a bit tighter to fit.

Old 0.84 ABF gears

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/fe9ae015.jpg~original)

G60 0.769 gears in place.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7c171f81.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 11 August 2011, 22:43
let me know how them gears are Russ mate  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 11 August 2011, 22:59
Will do when I drive it.  :wink: calculations with my current tyre size ( 195/50-15) gives figures as follows:

At 80mph rpm will be 3355rpm. At 6k speed will be 143mph

The CDA/DPA box would have given.

At 80mph - 3665rpm. At 6k speed was 130mph

The 195/45-16 will give slighted higher top speeds and lower cruising rpms. And with the higher mid range torque available it will be able to use it.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 11 August 2011, 23:08
Where did you get the gears from and how much ??
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: Bellend on 11 August 2011, 23:24
 :cool:

How hard is this job when the box it out mate?
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 12 August 2011, 00:09
Gears took a while to find, need to find someone who is changing ratios and knows what they are doing regarding getting them off. Can be had quite cheap :wink: usually around £200 from dealer.

Box on or off is about the same. Takes no more than a couple of hours or so. Seems harder than it is. Decent ratios can transform a car.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 21 August 2011, 21:10
I wanted to make sure before putting the welder away that there wasn't anymore rust on the passenger side. Removed the rear section of the sill cover to reveal a bit more rust on the front edge of the rear arch.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b10e8102.jpg~original)

The rust was cut out and area cleaned up.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/e99409a2.jpg~original)

The sill repair panel would supply the replacement section. Section was cut and matched to fit the area so it could be butt welded together. The panel has a swage line and the replacement panel wasn't exact, so it had to be adjusted.

Tacked into place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c37f4d6a.jpg~original)

And zipped up.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/9ffc26c2.jpg~original)

Then welds ground down ready for filling.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/28016698.jpg~original)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/e17378ef.jpg~original)

The rear quarter has had a bad repair done previously and has alot of filler. It's not even a big dent. I'll be getting bodyshop to sort it after all the welding has been done.

I checked the other side today and its only slight rust. Not as bad as this one, which is a relief  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 21 August 2011, 21:12
superb work russ :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 21 August 2011, 21:27
Cheers mate. Gotta get it all done so it can get some paint on it. Was in two minds wether to keep the sill covers on, but now there staying off. They look good but are mud and water traps.

Wings are at bodyshop now along with bumper and grill. A wing needs fitting along with the bumper so I can get the rest of the car there. Bit of a mission though.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: Toby on 21 August 2011, 21:48
just read this from start to finish!!

i take my hat off to you mate! quality work! lookforward to seeing the end result!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 21 August 2011, 21:53
Should look good once done mate, look forward to seeing it completed
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 21 August 2011, 23:30
Thanks. Doubt it'll be as "clean" as F17BAD though cos I'd be too scared to drive it.  :grin:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: F17BAD on 21 August 2011, 23:44
Thanks. Doubt it'll be as "clean" as F17BAD though cos I'd be too scared to drive it.  :grin:

 :grin: :grin:

Iv just done a 250 mile round trip in it. No stone chips to report  :laugh: and the engine was fantastic

P.s you got any recent pics of yours ?



Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 22 August 2011, 06:58
No. It's been in the garage for a while now. Should be back on it's wheels soon.  :wink:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: lemski on 22 August 2011, 11:36
Good build mate. Looking forward to seeing recent pics
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: Neo Badness on 27 August 2011, 12:31
Just read this from start to finish. Excellent work.  :cool:

Glad your finger's ok too.

In process of sorting out a Mk2 with an ABF. Your build thread has lots of useful info in it, so cheers for putting it up.

Look forward to seeing it out of the paint shop.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 27 August 2011, 13:30
Cheers. Glad it can be of help or inspiration.  Did the thread because there was no info around when I started.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: travisreeve on 27 August 2011, 14:03
i like this build  :sick:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: brett on 27 August 2011, 14:09
WOW just read your whole thread ,wicked job on everythin you know your sh*t,lookin forward to seein this complete  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Sill and jacking point repair.
Post by: tshirt2k on 07 November 2011, 22:14
Thought I'd better do an update as its been a while.

Recently had 2 wings, tailgate and a bumper sprayed in the bodyshop. But before they get fitted I had to start on the drivers side sill which was rotten, but not as bad as the other side.

I started by cutting out the the rot on the outer and inner section. The underneath jacking point was bent down to give better clearance.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/da5c5604.jpg)

Shown from underneath, hole around grommet was rotted so this was cut out too.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/34b76e66.jpg)

A piece of steel was cut to fit in the centre section of the sill. This was tacked into place an then zipped up.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/d2aeac96.jpg)

The jacking point metal was bent back into place and plug welded to the centre section of the sill. The gap was filled by an angled section of plate.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/5ff933d3.jpg)

Rather than by a new sill, I managed to cut a section of sill from another mk3. It had some rust but it was removed with some BH deox gel. It was trimmed to give an exact fit to the cut out sill section.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/9b3b0703.jpg)

This was tacked into position, then again zipped up. The welds were ground smooth with a flap disc on a grinder, ready for paint.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/58c99c92.jpg)

No pics of it finished as yet, but the metal underneath was cleaned up and treated with a phosphoric acid solution, then a few coats of epoxy mastic. I then added some brush-on seam sealer and some underbody wax. Cavity wax was used once it was all closed up for extra protection.

Also had to weld up a grommet hole just in front of the drivers seat.  :angry: but that's it all done under there now.

Last bit of rust on the rear of the sill to sort and it's off the bodyshop for painting.




Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: Len on 08 November 2011, 13:10
I'm surprised you didnt need to get it much further up off the ground!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: tshirt2k on 08 November 2011, 14:18
I'm surprised you didnt need to get it much further up off the ground!

I have a pit in the garage.  :wink:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: Len on 08 November 2011, 15:14
Oh lucky you! Now I am really envious!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: tshirt2k on 08 November 2011, 15:35
Oh lucky you! Now I am really envious!

Garage with a pit was one of the reasons I bought the house, although I've only just started to use it within the last few months. Didn't think it would be much use being to one side, but being able to weld standing up, is a blessing apart from weld spatter running down your neck.  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: Seanl on 08 November 2011, 15:42
Lucky sod. I almost bought a house with one in as well. Double up and over, pit, tons of storage in the form of an old kitchen and converted roof space, LP air compressor and lines that they were keeping, power, water etc etc....... Shame the house was in a crap area and we had the little un to think about. Still look every time I go past it with envy.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: Len on 08 November 2011, 15:49
Thats the one thing I wish I had done when I rebuilt the garage!
But it was way too much work at the time as the existing garage wall was in the way until the new one was fully built and the roof on. And there was 200mm of concrete in that area!
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Another sill repair done.
Post by: Neo Badness on 08 November 2011, 18:04
Pits are great in the garage, except when you jump in into them and they have frozen water that then breaks and you get soggy frozen feet :sick:

Good work on the sill.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - 15/1/12 Boot popper fitted
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 January 2012, 15:44
Thought i'd better keep the thread alive. Not done much due to other commitments.
After having front bumber sprayed, I wanted to restore the textured part, but found that on my bumpers it can be removed and a new part got from the dealer.

Makes the bumper look like new.  :smug:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/4f56994a.jpg)

Also have been wanting to find out how to get a boot popper in there to open the delocked tailgate. Had no joy, so had a play with some metal and the welder.

As you can see. No lock hole and no wiper.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/0095e450.jpg)

I thought about how i could secure the solenoid in the tailgate and decided to mount it on the wiper moter bracket. When you remove the motor, theres a recess the allows the solenoid to fit in there nicely. :smiley:

But had to secure it there, and wanted to be able to remove and replace it easy if something went wrong.
I bent up the metal securing strips that come with the motor to make some brackets.They were bent in a way that i can remove the motor without taking off the wiper bracket. Once happy, i tacked it in place. It didnt weld great due to the type of metal/coatings but was strong enough.

Not the best pics but you get the idea.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/70952741.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/2767c2c0.jpg)

I fixed this into the tailgate and using the supplied hardware i connected it to the lock mechanism. Once that was done, I stated on the wiring.

This is how it fits.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c48dac62.jpg)

I wanted the solenoid to operated in two ways:

1: Using a button on my alarm.
2: From a switch inside the car.

I didn't want to have it on the rear wiper like most do, as it could be accidentally open when going along.

I used a 30A SPDT relay, powered from a fused supply in the rear of my car. And wired it like shown in the 3rd diagram below.

(http://www.commandocaralarms.com/images/trunkrelease.gif)

At the moment, only the alarm side is wired, but pin 87a will be wired to a U.S trunk release switch, powered from an ign live at a later date.

A Video showing how it works. I press and hold a button on my alarm remote to operate it, but it only works when ignition is off, hence the need for another way of opening it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_ac0c5247.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/?action=view&current=ac0c5247.mp4)

Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - 15/12/12 Boot popper fitted
Post by: F17BAD on 15 January 2012, 20:18
i am sure i told you the bumper splits on the front..

Shame the rear one does not tho!

Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - 15/12/12 Boot popper fitted
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 January 2012, 20:52
i am sure i told you the bumper splits on the front..

Shame the rear one does not tho!



The rears do. Just not the bottom bit where mine has a bit of damage.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - 15/12/12 Boot popper fitted
Post by: Wayne on 15 January 2012, 21:13
Great work with the tailgate :afro:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 June 2012, 15:46
I finally found some time and £££ to get the car bodywork sorted. Found a place local that would do some work for me.

Before painting, it needed the rear arches straightening after the arch rolling exercise didn't go too well. [:$] Her are soe progress pics.

Drivers arch

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/1e6d2231.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/96ad9151.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b1de6c71.jpg)

A bit of rot that split the metal near the sill, needed attention.


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/14bec256.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/5515a65d.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b7f790dd.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/e093a545.jpg)

Ready for smoothing.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d473bb5f.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/03cddcdc.jpg)

Passenget side needed sorting due to a previous arch repair.


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/b9d9352b.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/f5d5a7d0.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/85f4d3e5.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6d022efb.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 June 2012, 15:47
Both sides in primer

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/476682f0.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/fdb3c972.jpg)

And part of the door that crushed my finger also needed a repair

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c2981ea5.jpg)

Car has been painted. I turned up when it was being flatted. Still need some other bit painted and drivers wing fitted. Then a polish and all trims refitted.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/1f1bb1f7.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/835b20e0.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/25239b03.jpg)

Happy with the progress so far. Shouldn't be long before it back on the road.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: Shady Pioneer on 02 June 2012, 17:53
Mate, well done with this. Looks like it's coming along brilliantly. Can't wait to see it all finished.
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 June 2012, 18:49
Cheers mate. Neither can i  :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tech1889 on 02 June 2012, 19:00
Looks awesome like i said the other day.. i will be visiting when its out the body shop :)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: Rhyso on 02 June 2012, 20:27
Top work  :cool:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: Wayne on 02 June 2012, 21:54
Cracking work :smiley:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 10 June 2012, 13:04
Went over to bodyshop to have a look at the car as it had just been cleaned.

Happy with the outcome. It's cleaned the car up really well.

It should be dropped back to me today where I can start to fit it all back together.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/5a28b581.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/262ecc9f.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: F17BAD on 10 June 2012, 13:44
looks sweet Russell  :kiss:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 10 June 2012, 13:51
Cheers Bradleh  :wink::grin:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: F17BAD on 10 June 2012, 13:56
 :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: leigh_harty on 10 June 2012, 19:49
Very nice, what you doing wheel wise? (incase ive missed something  :smiley:)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 10 June 2012, 20:20
I've got some Merc wheels to go on but undecided whether they'll stay. Just waiting for a pair of adapters.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/434a60ca.jpg)
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: F17BAD on 10 June 2012, 21:24
thought u was off to Halfords for some 18"s mate ? :tongue:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 10 June 2012, 21:25
Yea i went today. Priced up some ripspeed style add ons too  :smug:
Title: Re: Tshirt2k's Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: DanSN1 on 11 June 2012, 00:04
this cars amazing, yours and F17 BAD are two of the nicest MK3's i've ever seen, keep up the good work  :cool:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 July 2012, 14:11
I've been putting car back together after getting it back.
All side trims are on (textured), lights, bumper and grill. I'm still awaiting a bulb holder for my anni indicators.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/1837fefb.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c003e488.jpg)

I cleaned up under the front arches and gave a good few coats of underbody wax to prevent any corrosion. Then trimmed the guards to suit rolled arches. Wings were also seam sealed.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ac6a36c3.jpg)

Even tried the wheels on.  :cool: They sit well on the front. Final offset ET21 with the adapters.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/29653fe7.jpg)
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Puddle Lights
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 July 2012, 21:05
Before fitting door cards back on i wanted to wire up the puddle lights i had. From viewing a few late cars, I realised that these could be fitted without too much trouble. All you need to purchase from dealer is a couple of wire pins for the 32 pin connector in the door. Pn - 000 979 129E Price ~£2.50 per wire with a pin at each end. :shocked:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/3c256f86.jpg)

These needed to be fitted into the door side loom after removing plug. pins 8 & 9 need filling. #8 is +ve #9 -ve

Before
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7b8f047f.jpg)

After
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/t32a_puddle.jpg)

I then soldered a loom up to the correct length and attached the plugs. This was wrapped up along side the original door loom .

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/63332d59.jpg)

Fitted and working.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/07d68b3e.jpg)

Also after fitting 02J tower, I had no revesing lights due to it having a different connector plug. This was rectified by making up an adapter to join them together so i didn't havce to cut and solder engine loom in that cramped area.

Female plug and wires got from dealer (pn 1J0 973 702 and 000 979 131E) Connected to a male 2 pin found on a mk3 breaker.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/c41e2e4d.jpg)
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tech1889 on 14 July 2012, 21:33
Great progress as ever mate.. Have to come see it soon  :smiley:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 July 2012, 21:46
Cheers mate. Will Be back on the road soon - ish  :wink:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: funkyfive on 15 July 2012, 08:16
Good to see more progress.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tdi_blu on 15 July 2012, 09:14
You got some really good skillz mate top work wish I could do the things youve done.Dont know to much about welding but yours looks mint and I really like the fact its a 16v nothing against 20vt just seems the in conversion for mk3s where this is kinda 1 of a kind in my eyes great work.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 July 2012, 09:33
Thanks mate. Yea not many ABF turbo mk3's about. And I fancied settling myself a challenge.  :nerd:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tdi_blu on 15 July 2012, 09:50
A friend of my dads back in the day done a supercharged mk1 16v it had the mk2 engine in as mk3s wasnt out then I was only a kid but remember how rapid the thing was guy use to moan though about how it loved the fuel  :grin: I dare say there are the odd 16vt about but not many I only know of yours so fair play and doing something different is always good.As already said engine conversion yours and kells are top of the tree on here great skillz...
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: leigh_harty on 15 July 2012, 09:52
You got some really good skillz mate top work wish I could do the things youve done.Dont know to much about welding but yours looks mint and I really like the fact its a 16v nothing against 20vt just seems the in conversion for mk3s where this is kinda 1 of a kind in my eyes great work.

I agree with this.. and the fact that it doesnt look 'special' if you know what i mean  :evil:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: thai-wronghorse on 15 July 2012, 10:21
In reference to the puddle light wiring connectors you fitted, I assume you needed 4 of these (2 per door)? Are they all identical and what's on the other end of the cable of what's shown in the photograph you've posted, does it have the puddle light connector or is it a bare ended wire?
Luckily the puddle lights I've salvaged have the connector blocks with them attached to about 80mm of cable if I need to adapt something.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 July 2012, 20:57
In reference to the puddle light wiring connectors you fitted, I assume you needed 4 of these (2 per door)? Are they all identical and what's on the other end of the cable of what's shown in the photograph you've posted, does it have the puddle light connector or is it a bare ended wire?
Luckily the puddle lights I've salvaged have the connector blocks with them attached to about 80mm of cable if I need to adapt something.

The photo of the pins is one wire. Each wire has a pin on each end. So you only need 2 wires. Just make sure if you are connecting one wire in a loop into the door plug the wire is cut, or the battery is off, or fuses will be blown.

All I did was extend each wire and joined it the the plug that connects to the light.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: thai-wronghorse on 15 July 2012, 23:34
Cool, that's easy enough then cheers.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: sharki786 on 23 August 2012, 23:40
looking good mate.
you want to do some welding on my car? :laugh:
i did the puddle lights on my car (didnt have them before) i connected the puddle wires to the window mech and they work like a dream
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: tshirt2k on 24 August 2012, 05:44
Window mech? So the come on when you open the windows??  :grin:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 01 September 2012, 23:20
Update time.

Managed to get the car MOT'd and on the road today. :D.  Been a long time coming, and i was a bit concerned regarding the emmissions. The Last time they were checked, there was HC issues and it was a job to get it dialled in.

On first start up since fitting the new sport CAT, the car didnt want to run. The Idle was too low, AFRs were all over the place and i couldn't adjust the idle due to the idle screw being to short. This was confusing at first, as nothing was touched on the engine or ECU but it seemed to point to the engine needing more air to run and more fuel to match.
After some fiddling i got it to idle smoothly around stoich (AFR 14.7) and got the car booked in for the test.

Laptop at the ready the sniffer was put in the pipe and to my surprise the boxes were green with slightly raised CO. Fast idle cleared this up and was all good :o :afro:. So looks like you can get through the later emissions test with Megasquirt and a CAT.

I did some tests and found that the fueling had leaned off at the top end, probably due to the extra exhaust flow. So the map was adjusted and my smile was restored. Forgotten how quick it was!

Also gave me a chance to test the MK4 shifter/shortshift and taller 5th gear. Its still a bit stiff but is loosening up. The taller 5th is alot better. It doesn't feel so highly strung at motorway speeds but the drop from 4th to 5th isnt really noticeable.

Took a pic whilst waiting for the MOT. More to come.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Golf_Mot.jpg)
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 September 2012, 23:11
Gave it a clean and took some pics.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/frontend.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/F90D69C7-2F33-49DA-A4BC-B20F1DE9F08C-20263-000010D3C160A74C.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/Untitled.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/507FEB28-CEA1-4047-A2DF-D4AA02D1F82E-20806-000010D8BCCBFE72.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/A7594276-EBC4-4D6B-A54E-5FCAEAEE732F-20263-000010D3B077634D.jpg)

You can see attached to rocker cover is the ISV, which i will be plumbing in soon after modifting the megasquirt with the right components.

I Seem to have a problem with knocking on the front end. Sounds like something to do with the driveshaft. A quick look underneath showed nothing obvious. At first i thought it could be rubbing on a heatsheild, but bending it out of the way has changed nothing. Noise sounds like something is about to break  :undecided: Only seems to be at low speeds. Further investigation needed.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: Neo Badness on 04 September 2012, 09:54
congratulations on the MOT, been an excellent build.

Was the car making the noise before you washed it? I have a theory that they break only when they've just been washed or or have a full tank of fuel...
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 September 2012, 10:55
I thought the noise would disappear if I washed it.  :grin:

It wasnt there before it went off the road. I only seemed to have happened since lowering the front a bit more. I'll look further into it this week.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: archie837 on 04 September 2012, 11:06
Could be one of your balljoints? Had one go on the mk4 and it knocked over bumps and stuff.

Wasn't obvious it was that until someone stuck a prybar in there and basically moved it all around.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 04 September 2012, 11:15
It's not that type of noise. Its not to do with bumps. It's a rotational thing. I'm thinking inner cv joint as the knocking seems to quieten when wheels are turned. When the engine is driving the wheels it's not there either. Only slow speed coasting is when I here it most ie when slowing at a junction. Not brake related either.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: DanChave on 06 September 2012, 07:24
I had a noise like this and it was a front strut top nut ever so slightly loose? Great work work on the car though dude, it looks amazeballs :)
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: funkyfive on 06 September 2012, 09:43
Hi Russ, do you have a sports cat fitted?
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: F17BAD on 06 September 2012, 11:20
Hi Russ, do you have a sports cat fitted?


He has the same one as what I sold u many moons ago mate
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 06 September 2012, 16:49
Hi Russ, do you have a sports cat fitted?

Yep! As brad mentioned. 42 draft designs one.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS Extra V3.0 - Bodywork Time
Post by: sharki786 on 09 September 2012, 19:43
Window mech? So the come on when you open the windows??  :grin:

hahaha sorry mate. i connected the wires to the loom that goes to the window motor lols :evil:
car looks propa nice!!!
keep up the good work!!
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: funkyfive on 10 September 2012, 08:58
What sort of engine temps do you get?
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: Wayne on 10 September 2012, 10:51
Great result with the mot and good to see it on the road.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 10 September 2012, 16:22
What sort of engine temps do you get?

90's- 110.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 16 September 2012, 12:40
I purchased an EBC so I can get a bit more control over my boost. After seeing good reviews about them and how simple it is, I decided to go for a Gizzmo.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/68709519-D3E8-4A92-AE95-346EAD5A2A04-8373-0000067F16E78F90.jpg~original)

I wanted a neat install so had a good think about the best location and ideally didn't want to drill holes and make brackets.

Settled on fitting solenoid on to scuttle trunking.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ADC4EB04-CF5E-40F9-BE13-0EE0E4285DEB-8373-0000067F20ED4E2F.jpg~original)

The position of the solenoid made plumbing to turbo and wastegate easier.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6EDF357B-9693-4723-B4A1-EDFA9DF8BF2A-8373-0000067F28C38126.jpg~original)

A bit more head scratching, some removal of minimal trim panels and a location for the controller was chosen. Had to drill a couple of holes in the glovebox for wires and vac hose.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/86BEA257-B821-4777-B4BA-0FE8E5A36FFD-8373-0000067F2DEB6723.jpg~original)

Went out to program some boost settings and it's very easy to use. Just need to do some datalogs so i can set ramp rate for boost. The boost seems to hold on better at the top end too.

I also modded the the MS to give me PWM idle control. Next job is to plumb in idle valve and get that working.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: Gavv8 on 16 September 2012, 15:26
Really nice car and a great build with some interesting touches. :afro:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 16 September 2012, 18:02
Cheers mate. Appreciate the comment
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: funkyfive on 21 September 2012, 18:51
Nice build, I have been following the progress.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 30 September 2012, 10:03
I had a long standing issue that was causing a slight hesitation as the boost rose  between 1-4 psi. This wouldn't happen all the time, mainly between fast gearchanges, so it was very hard to trace. I assumed it was a boost leak of some sort but on a boost leak test there was no leaks. 

The noise as boost started to rise has been there since I built the engine and I assumed that having a dump valve it was normal. I decided to do some research on the valve I had, as it was a part that i hadnt tested/checked. The valve second hand from e bay and advertised as a bailey dv24. 

By chance I found a website  that showed how you can service your dv24. I also found alot that said how bailey valves were no good but replacement wasn't an option at the moment so I thought I'd give it a go. 

http://www.evilution.co.uk/432 (http://www.evilution.co.uk/432)

I followed the guide and 1st thing I noticed was I didn't have a dv24 single piston valve but a dv26 dual piston. This was a bonus as I prefered not to have unfiltered air entering the engine. 
The next thing I noticed was the piston was very stiff and took some effort to remove and was a bit sticky In its bore. 
I immediately knew this was my problem as the valve had a dry black non greasy substance inside that wouldn't allow the piston to move freely. (I used silicone grease as I didn't have lm grease)

After reassembling, the piston movement was checked and was smooth with no tight spots. 

A test drive proved that this was the cause and now it seemed to be dumping differently too. 

I may need more mapping now though. 
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: Koose on 07 October 2012, 14:28
Awesome project mate, really nice to see on here!! Reminds me of the nutters on the MG and Rover forums (alot of them fit the 2.0litre turbos out of the coupe into other MGRS and so some fabrication goes on!

Keep up the goodwork.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Back on the road
Post by: tshirt2k on 07 October 2012, 17:40
cheers mate :afro:

It is constanly evolving.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 October 2012, 16:06
So I've been wanting to get better cold starts and without idle control its a bit of a compromise. I never had a major issue with getting it started, but cold idle was a bit low until the engine warmed up a bit and i wanted to improve it.

I have always wanted to add an ISV so after i figured out the best way to install it, i bought some fittings and started to install it.

Had to bypass the throttle plate and keep the system sealed. I didnt want to do anymore welding, so I bought a 13mm take off to fit into the elbow before the throttle.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/76234CA5-4AFD-4FB4-BD84-39D28F2B5E51-966-000000911AA2BA0A.jpg~original)

Then a section of pipe was made up consisting of a 19mm-13mm reducer, joined to a section of 13mm silicone. This was used to connect to the ISV input.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ABD81859-3627-4D70-8EB3-FBD0635CD0BD-966-0000009122468040.jpg~original)

A section of pipe was made up for the ISV outlet to manifold connection. I chose to Tee into the manifold where brake servo connects. For the permanant connections i wanted to keep it neat so i used ear hose clamps instead of worm drive

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/952F4F9D-9610-45FE-9984-451878EC2E5A-966-000000911062AFEA.jpg~original)

ISV connection Tee'd into servo line.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/ISVplumbing1.jpg~original)

ISV connected into circuit, to bypass throttle

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/isvplumbing2.jpg~original)

Once car was fired up, i had to adjust down throttle stop as the extra air from the ISV had it revving near 2k rpm once warm.

I have it setup for warmup mode only and it works well. I have noticed there isn't much range to adjust on the valve. It revs very high within a 10% duty band. I Will attempt to get closed loop idle working at a later date.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted and dyno results
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 October 2012, 16:49
So after the car being off the road and had bits fitted that should improve the performance, I wanted to see what effects they would have.
I went to London Dyno Day at Garage Streamline organised by Toyotec of CGTI and car was strapped on the rollers. I first set the boost controller to 18psi, but it didn't seem to like it, although on the road it felt ok and fueling seemed about right.

I then switched to 1bar boost and the car was run.

(video)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/th_80302E33-EED6-4689-9B70-9A5D29782714-966-0000008A8FF30136.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/80302E33-EED6-4689-9B70-9A5D29782714-966-0000008A8FF30136.mp4)

Results

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/D36337E5-8EA6-4798-B365-6177F313B761-966-0000008A2DEAAA14.jpg~original)

Happy with the outcome but would like to find out what was causing the wobble past 5k. Not bad for a bit of road tuning.

It was commented that it was running rich and i've realised that whilst i was concentrating on fueling for the high boost setting and i had over adjusted this line of the map too. Also noticed that the reason the high boost setting spiking early was due to me being a generous with the gain setting of the boost controller.

Will need to get it optimised on the dyno now and get controller dialled in correctly.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: thai-wronghorse on 14 October 2012, 16:55
Coming along quite nicely, whens the optimised map planned?
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 October 2012, 17:04
Hopefully soon. Within the next month
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: thai-wronghorse on 14 October 2012, 17:10
What do you reckon, more power / torque or simply a smoother delivery curve is on the cards once done? Realistically speaking what do think is achievable from this kind of set up and what would be needed to scratch on the surface of 300 ponies?
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 14 October 2012, 17:43
Initial delivery is good as you can see by the graph. Its the top end that needs smoothing due to the boost controller holding onto the boost longer that throws the map out. I think there should be a bit more power and torque available with the extra boost, but it would mainly be in the upper mid range.

Im sure i'll find out, but doubt this will get near 300hp especially on that "heartbreaker" dyno.

Maybe a stronger wastgate spring will hold the boost on longer but to be honest, its fast enough and spins up easy enough as it is. Also if i do that i won't be able to have a low boost (6psi) setting as the spring will increase the minimum setting.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: Neo Badness on 15 October 2012, 09:35
Epic.  :cool:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: Lewy on 02 January 2013, 21:43
Please excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time that I have ventured on your project thread, and WOW, seriously impressed by your craftsmanship.

Is it now on the 'proper' map?

I'll be in touch reference the MS too...
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: SoundillusioN on 02 January 2013, 22:12
Please excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time that I have ventured on your project thread, and WOW, seriously impressed by your craftsmanship.

Is it now on the 'proper' map?

I'll be in touch reference the MS too...

Not far behind you to be honest Lewy... Saw the first batch of updates a long time back and then never saw it pop up again!...  A very impressive thread indeed!
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 January 2013, 22:16
Please excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time that I have ventured on your project thread, and WOW, seriously impressed by your craftsmanship.

Is it now on the 'proper' map?

I'll be in touch reference the MS too...

Cheers mate, No probs. You never know what to expect when looking at build threads  :grin:

Its not quite the proper map. WOT map at 0.6 & 1 Bar are ok apart from the wobble past 5k that needs looking into. I'd still like to get map sorted for 18 psi but not important until i can get some traction.

I Have been fine tuning it recently on the spark side of thing to smooth out some off idle stumbles and some low speed drivebiltiy issues. Seems a lot better now. With MS you can always have a tweak here and there to get it closer to how you want it.



Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 January 2013, 22:28
Whilst i'm at it, I may as well update it.

I had some paintwork redone by the place i originally got in done by, as I wasn't too happy with some bits.

Much happier with the result.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/IMG_2136_zps75f5ac29.jpg~original)

Also in the search for more traction, an OBX 02J diff was sourced ready to fit into my spare 16v box together with a VR final drive.

Quality seems good. Need a few more bearings and synchro's to buy, then get it sent up to Hotgolf for the build. Apparently they are the same as a quaife once sorted at just over half the price. They do need some machining to allow it to fit into the box and some new washers.  :cool:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/62E3823C-5670-41D8-AB4F-C94CE4849D7E-2890-000003DA2C2B6DD1.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/6A73CA10-B03D-4F7E-8E0C-CBB8BCEFE0B7-2890-000003DA84D7AFC2.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/D5763266-E9D1-4677-B0D2-FEA580E0D058-2890-000003DA7C34FC96.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/FE77E7F0-CAF0-4B0A-8ABC-A37A677FBB86-2890-000003DA8B89E057.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: SoundillusioN on 02 January 2013, 22:41
Please excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time that I have ventured on your project thread, and WOW, seriously impressed by your craftsmanship.

Is it now on the 'proper' map?

I'll be in touch reference the MS too...

Cheers mate, No probs. You never know what to expect when looking at build threads  :grin:

Its not quite the proper map. WOT map at 0.6 & 1 Bar are ok apart from the wobble past 5k that needs looking into. I'd still like to get map sorted for 18 psi but not important until i can get some traction.

I Have been fine tuning it recently on the spark side of thing to smooth out some off idle stumbles and some low speed drivebiltiy issues. Seems a lot better now. With MS you can always have a tweak here and there to get it closer to how you want it.

Problem with having a setup like this and knowing what you know, I bet you'll never stop tweaking.  :grin:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: sharki786 on 02 January 2013, 23:13
Nice work mate. Tried to play the vid but keeps asking for password??
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 January 2013, 23:14
You do have to resist the urge and just drive it, but sometimes these niggles keep repeating themselves and out comes the laptop.  :laugh:

It is rewarding once they are sorted though! :smug: Thats the beauty of having a system you can tweak. If you change something and it doesn't work or gets worse, you can always revert back unless you haven't saved it. Good way to learn how it all works.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 02 January 2013, 23:17
Nice work mate. Tried to play the vid but keeps asking for password??

Try now. Updated the link  :wink:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: sharki786 on 02 January 2013, 23:26
Oooh that roar :cool:
Why didnt vw put a charger on the mk3's???
I didnt know yours was hitting nearly 260 horses.
Good work mate.
Lovin it :wink:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 January 2013, 00:11
Think it has potential for more once tuned on the dyno.

And it's nearly 260 "Heartbreaker" horspower.   :grin:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: sharki786 on 03 January 2013, 07:40
Still brill power for a 16v
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: F17BAD on 03 January 2013, 20:00
Reakon if you put on on a Dyno like R Tech for example you would be closer to 280 Hp :wink:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: dragongreengolfgti on 03 January 2013, 20:21
Damn this is good if i had the time i would try and do this  :grin: I'm sure the ABF is a good engine for doing this sort of thing with ?  Are they as strong as vr6's on standard internals?
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 03 January 2013, 20:35
Damn this is good if i had the time i would try and do this  :grin: I'm sure the ABF is a good engine for doing this sort of thing with ?  Are they as strong as vr6's on standard internals?

A VR can cope up to ~400hp, an ABF would need rods changing if going over 350hp if using the stronger 2E rods. I think a standard rods are a bit weaker but how much is anyones guess.
There are many cars running 220 - 300 hp on boost, with a standard engines and stacked gaskets. whether its a supercharger or turbo. I've just not seen any in a mk3.

The ABF is a strong engine  :wink:
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 July 2013, 20:06
Update time.

Not much been happening over the past few months apart from collecting bits for my gear box rebuild. And purchasing a stronger wastgate spring.

The wastegate spring was to try and hold onto the boost for longer up the rev range.  Initially I found a spring very cheap on the net. It was a 2 bar and it was ideal from what I'd read would give me what I wanted.

So it arrived and I fitted it one evening after work. It seemed very stiff when fitting it. Causing me a bit of trouble fitting wastegate cap back on. Went for a quick drive and as I put my foot down. Boost rose to past 25psi!!! That wasn't right as i felt engine overboost protection cut in. 

No wonder it was cheap! Instead of 2 bar absolute it must have been 2 bar gauge. It was confirm the next day when I called supplier.

I managed to track down a proper spring in the uk that was 2bar absolute which should give around 1 bar gauge pressure. Only place I'd previously found was 034 Motorsport in the US and shipping was too expensive to justify it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/21A634E9-70F6-459F-9B9B-1F9DC4826764-44063-000015F72CDDD38C.jpg~original)

Once fitted I did a few runs to check minimum boost pressure. This was better at around 1.1bar(17psi) but still too high. I did a bit if research and found the wastegate can be adjusted slightly on the spring seat. There's a little disc in the middle of the cap that needs removing to reveal an Allen screw. I drilled a little hole and screwed a self tapper in to remove the disc. I then reduce the tension on the spring and settled for a minimum of .98 bar. This gives the boost control more range of adjustment and doesn't need so much duty to increase boost.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/C19C71B0-8830-47B8-9A15-07477E16B82D-44817-00001629632FF516.jpg~original)

Hopefully this means I can get a bit more out on the dyno as does pull better past 5k now.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - ISV fitted dyno results P17
Post by: tshirt2k on 15 July 2013, 20:22
So i sent up my OBX up to Hotgolf along with all bearings and synchros as he was going to be building it. I also sent new bellville washers from quaife as the OBX ones were known to fail.  He was also going to open it up and check its condition as they were known to have a few issues. He opened it up he found a surprise. It no longer resembled a quaife/peloquin but something else.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7E7F8D8D-D348-4ECB-B7E5-E5DD2BB52D31-4364-00000254240526B1.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/15F46787-61D2-4D3B-97FA-13F940139C2D-4364-000002542C96EC3A.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/9DA32680-AF72-4372-B481-9B4D21D5EB04-4364-0000025435B82D5D.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/BBA94842-B130-47E3-ADC1-957CADF2DB6C-4364-000002543CBB46F8.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/AF6C87E5-3D2B-4D92-BE7E-6971D8D7297C-4364-0000025445AED123.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/DC8C64A9-3973-488A-AF18-93F899EC903E-4364-000002544BA49140.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/5BE41830-F05B-43E4-92C5-821D0A10B7C2-4364-0000025452729721.jpg~original)

You can see if anyone has seen inside a quaife how different it is. The washers I got couldn't be used and there is a wavy section in the middle and some carbon/Kevlar bits that must add preload to help lock the diff better.

Spoke to Hotgolf who said he was impressed with it and said they'd "upped their game". I was happy with that.

The box was stripped down and all bits were replaced and new diff fitted with a VR6 final drive within a few days.

Box stripped down old diff removed.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/7AEA85B0-5FBE-4E09-988C-D85F9EA695A1-43974-000015ED64D1564C.jpg~original)

Box during build with new diff in place with VR crown wheel, preload set.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/D6BB8F9C-BDC7-45BB-A599-D526DAD991A2-43974-000015ED6A37A07C.jpg~original)

Box complete.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/89719155-5DF2-4DC8-B473-2CA7CDF432E4-43974-000015ED705C5E8E.jpg~original)

Once the box was back I decided to give it a clean and paint up considering its value. Lol

Etch primed, painted wheel silver and 2k lacquered.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/C08534ED-F322-4C73-BD77-96D089CB1E58-44063-000015EDF883D1C3.jpg~original)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/70B3D9B1-7A03-46AE-90A8-D292B110D318-44063-000015EDFEA11406.jpg~original)


Fitted the box yesterday and  I'm very impressed with it so far. Have loads of grip now even with worn tyres. Box feels so smooth like a new car and transforms the handling. The diff does its job and needed no machining to fit in the case. Must be testament to the skills of Hotgolf. Would recommend him highly for this type of work, with a rapid turnaround.

Most people think about power, but a gearbox with the right ratios and an LSD can work wonders.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: sharki786 on 15 July 2013, 23:18
A very nice update. Love the lsd (just know what it means and does) would love to know how to do all this but naah. If you dont mind me asking you, how much did the gb cost (lsd, rebuild & part)
Keep it up
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: Dave_IOW on 16 July 2013, 00:01
Looks a load different to my Quaife one.

Glad your pleased with it, can't wait to test mine.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: tshirt2k on 16 July 2013, 07:06
A very nice update. Love the lsd (just know what it means and does) would love to know how to do all this but naah. If you dont mind me asking you, how much did the gb cost (lsd, rebuild & part)
Keep it up

Cheers.
You're looking at around a grand or more for a full rebuild depending on the price of the diff and what you pay for your spare box. My spare was a £30 DPA from the bay and due to its unknown history I opted for all bearings and synchros to be replaced. The diff all in worked out less than £480.
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: tshirt2k on 16 July 2013, 07:14
Looks a load different to my Quaife one.

Glad your pleased with it, can't wait to test mine.

Yep. I don't think it's based on a quaife anymore.

More than likely something like this (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Wavetrac_02J_Differential-445-190.html).
Title: Re: Mk3 ABF 16vT on MS1 Extra V3.0 - Rebuilt gearbox with OBX LSD.
Post by: Neo Badness on 04 October 2013, 14:50
Nice.  :smiley: That looks brilliant.