Author Topic: *HOW TO* - Replace front and rear top mounts.  (Read 33693 times)

Offline Big Tone

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*HOW TO* - Replace front and rear top mounts.
« on: 01 July 2011, 21:46 »
Couldn't find info on here so I thought I'd write mine up for other people in future.

Please feel free to add/suggest info.

This is how to replace the fronts without removing the strut, this requires spring compressors.

I am no mechanical genius, all I can say is that this is how I did it and it worked for me.

Fronts.



Tools;

Trolley Jack
Axle stands (x2)
21mm spark plug socket (Must be able to slot a 7mm allen key through the centre, and hold the hex section with a spanner)
Spanner to fit hex section of spark plug socket
Spring compressors



1. Jack Car up and support on axle stands.

2. Remove front wheels.

3. Using a trolley jack AT THE BALL JOINT, jack up the strut until the spring compressors can be fitted. (I compressed the spring SLIGHTLY)



4. Fit spring compressors at suitable points on the spring.

5. Using a 21mm spark plug socket with a 7mm allen key through the middle, undo the top nut and top plate. (You will need to use something to hold the allen key which holds the centre "stud" in position, I used an extension from the socket set.)




      6.Compress the spring evenly with the compressors.



      The compressors I had were not just quite long enough to reach onto the next helix.

      7. Using the same method as before undo the bottom nut.

8. Lower the jack to drop the strut from the mounting.

9. Remove the mount, bearing and top plate.

BE CAREFUL - WORKING WITH FINGERS BETWEEN THE SPRING IS DANGEROUS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND THE EQUIPMENT YOU ARE USING IS SUITABLE FOR THE JOB AND IN GOOD CONDITION -  DONT TAKE ANY RISKS.

10. Clean up the top plate and inside of bush housing.

11. Replace top plate, bearing and bush in reverse order as removed.

12. Jack up the strut into place.

13. Tighten the bottom nut.

14. SLIGHTLY decompress the spring so that it holds its position, ENSURE THAT THE SPRING IS SAT IN THE TOP AND BOTTOM PLATES CORRECTLY.

15. Replace the top cap and nut in reverse order of removal.

NOTE – The damper retracts inside itself when unsupported, you may need to pull the damper out as you re-fit the components. This may not make sense now, but you will see what I mean when you  try to re-fit the bushes. Simple, just a bit fiddly.

16. Decompress the spring slowly and evenly until it rests on the jack as before.

17. Lower jack.

18. Re-fit wheel.

19. Repeat for the other side.

20. Remove axle stands and lower car to the floor.

Rears.

The rear mounts really are easy, so no need for a diagram. Can be done quickly but I need to fit my rear beam bushes to stop my knocking.

Tools needed;

16mm socket and wrench
16mm combination spanner
Small and medium adjustables
Trolley jack
Small “widowmaker” scissor jack out of the boot. (Not essential but aids re-fitting)

1. Jack rear wheel up.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Support ball joint as before using small jack.

4. Using 16mm socket and combi spanner, undo the long bolt which joins the base of the strut to the axle.

5. Using a 16mm socket, undo the two bolts holding the mount to the chassis.



6. Compress the strut (By hand) and remove from the vehicle.

7. Remove the mount from the strut, this involves removing the end cap, then undoing the nut whilst holding the central “stud”. I only had adjustables to do this with, but if you have a spanner that fits then that is better.

8. Clean up the top of the strut.

9. Fit new mount to strut.

10. Compress and re-fit to vehicle, starting with the bottom bolt first.

11. Re-fit two upper mounting bolts. (Adjustment can be made on jack if required)

12. Remove small jack.

13. Re-fit wheel.

14. Lower car and repeat for the other side.

The mounts will take a day or so to settle, the difference was well worth it, no more pulling to the left, car feels a lot “grippier” and firmer round the corners, oh and no “twanging” when on full lock.

Hope that helps someone.


I and GolfGti.co.uk accept no respsonsibilty should anything go wrong or you break something  :tongue:
You carry out this procedure at your own risk
« Last Edit: 01 July 2011, 22:11 by richw911 »

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Offline jamie1989

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace front and rear top mounts.
« Reply #1 on: 03 July 2011, 09:55 »
top work this will be very helpful for me to change my drivers side top mount  :smiley:
1.6-1.8t AGU K03s, Forge actuator, Forge 007p, turbo back exhuast, Ths front mount, Catch can, 5 piece silicone boost pipes and creation sports tip. Stage 2 atm 232bhp 270lbs. Waiting for custom mapping :-)

Offline GTIcheeseman

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace front and rear top mounts.
« Reply #2 on: 27 August 2012, 19:21 »
how can you check your top mounts? ie. check if they are damaged?

Offline Jaguar4321

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace front and rear top mounts.
« Reply #3 on: 09 November 2012, 19:47 »
Perfect guide , did mine lamest night in 1 hour! Cheers