1.8T AGU no boost, lost all power

[sonyboy]

again solved i have my power back, last time was wire on n75 and this time is second wire on n75. my mistake trzing to solve problem.
i have full power back when turbo is at max boost, only what i notice is loss of power and strong boost on low revs from 1.5kto 3k, after 3k pull great but before to much time to wait from 1.5& to hit max  boost and car start pulling,

ideas?

[sonyboy]

I have notice that when i start car, its running great even from 1K, specially pulls great from 1,5K revs, as much as it warms its lossing boost from low revs. one minute after cold start, much of boost is lost in low revs, but its fine from 3K as usual. so if i drive in 3rd gear from 1,5K and floor it to the ground i can barely hear turbo until it reached 3K and then pulls great, but when car is just started and when is cold in 3rd gear pulls great from 1,5K revs and you can hear turbo is spooling from low revs very strong.

any ideas about this, is there a way that lambda can cause this after warmup. I've tried with new DV it is the same situation, its no DV, N75,MAF, CTS that cause problem, all new.

[Wazzzer]

lambda could be a possibility, also have you changed the temp sender?

[Rico_GTi]

lambda could be a possibility, also have you changed the temp sender?

+1

[sonyboy]

temp sender changed, i have two it is same situation. lambda is not new, but dont seem to causing problems!

[RTechUK]

Problem with narrow band system is they are hard to diagnose. you need to match the sensor idle readings with what VCDS is seeing. In the stock mapping the idel lambda should just be on the lean side of stoich around 14.7:1 - 15:1 AFR or narrow band volt reading of 0.6v to test the reading you need to use a wideband lambda probe up the tail pipe to compare (mot testers can read these for you) 

What is your injection ms ratio to 2.9g/s? should be around 2.04ms with 2.5bar on the FPR.

The best way and fastest way to fix you problems in run the car up in the dyno and external log the IDC injector duty cycle with wideband lambda and fuel rail pressure.  Steady state dyno testing at a held rpm of 3000rpm 4500rpm 6000rpm will show you exactly whats going on with the fuel system, plus using reverse maths using rpm, displacement and power,  then we can work out how much air the car is using to produce that power and the given rpm and work the back from Lbs/min to g/s to compare the MAF scales.

[sonyboy]

my fpr is stock i think it is 3bar, my idle is 2.9g/s and think it is around 2,5ms

[sonyboy]

every morning car runs great, there is strong sound od turbo in any gear at 1.5K and car pulls great from low revs, as it warms for about few minutes sound of turbo from low revs dissapears and car pulls very poor from low revs, you have to hit 3K to hear turbo.
So some part is failing when it is warm, if it is pipe or some plastic pipe it cannot be warmed in a minute.
I tried to disconnect battery for about 15 20 minutes, and car ran few miles great with full power, and power is dropping as much as i drive it everydays, and after  week or so power drops for about 30%, so only element that can lean the car could be lambda. bu i have good readings from lambda no errors or so.
this is my opinion, some element leans car and power drops as much as i drive it when i disconnect battery, no error over vagcom.

[sonyboy]

today found leak at old DV valve, i tried to suck and blow air through DV and there is  air shhhh sound when i blow through it. so i put new DV 710N  and got little better boost from low revs. so even try to change N75 stock with new N75J it is little bit better in mid revs but i got big boost drop past 5K.
I notice more boost from low revs and i can hear stronger air suck and turbo spool in low revs but not in all rev range. i'm still looking for that loss of power, car doesnt pull like before not even close, so i'm thinkg of changing lambda but lamba seems fine in vagcom reading, voltage is fine, correction, mixture.

last thing what is not changed is lambda and turbo, there  is a 220K kilometres on board, so turbo maybe weak. can this ko3 turbo last for about 220K with agressive driving???

any ideas may help!!!!