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Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Golf mk7 how to guides + info => Topic started by: vidman2 on 12 November 2013, 16:20

Title: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: vidman2 on 12 November 2013, 16:20
Instruction for fitting a multi-way power adapter to provide a switched power supply for Dash Cams, GPS devices or any other device needing to be plugged into a Ciggy socket and to avoid trailing wires to the centre console.

DISCLAIMER - This mod is carried out at your own risk, I accept no responsibility for you not carrying out your own assessment of your level of skill and common sense as to whether you can or should use this guide to help you do something similar.

Background:
I was going to place the adapter in the glove box but there is no easy way to route the accessory cables into the glove box so I decided to fit the adapter into the drivers side cubby hole/drawer.  This meant that I had to run a live wire from the fuse box behind the glove box on the passenger side across the car into the cubby hole.

I used a standard 3 way adapter, which are getting hard to source, rather than one with a USB power feed as virtually all the integrated USB power feeds are only 500ma which is too low to power and charge most modern devices.  Separate plug in USB power feeders are available giving over 2 amps, dual feed ones are also available giving separate 1 and 2amp USB power feeds. There is space to fit a 4 way adapter if required - the choice is yours, but be sure to by an adapter which has a wire connection and not the newer integrated plug version.

I identified a switched live in the fuse box - Fuse 48 - which is not used or listed in the manual and decided to use this as the supply.  I do not know what this fuse might have been destined to supply but using it has not thrown up any fault codes and everything appears to be working correctly.

The Negative, earth, supply was provided by bolting the negative wire of the adapter to the metal chassis just behind the drivers side cubby hole, easily accessible by removing the dash end cover.

The Cubby Hole can be dropped and removed by squeezing its sides to drop it forward and then pulling forward to remove it. I found that it was much easier to attach the nut and bolt for the earth wire once the drawer was removed - risk of dropping the nut/bolt/washers otherwise through restricted access space, since the diagnostic port is directly below where the earth wire is bolted extra care should be taken not to drop anything metal into the back of the port.

To draw the cable across the car I used a 'Mouse' in my case a semi flexible plastic rod but you could possibly use a long stiff wire.  A mouse is needed as it is impossible to feed a flexible cable from footwell to footwell.  Once the mouse has been successfully fed through - see photos - then the feed wire is taped to the end of the mouse and the mouse carefully pulled back bringing the cable with it.

The Mouse is used a second time to draw the wire up behind the dash to the back of the cubby hole - see photos.

OK - the Steps.

Step 1. Drop Glove Box - the instructions are in the cars user manual - be aware that the release clips have to be pulled forward and up and can be very stiff to release the first few times it is done.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0001copy_zps714d5834.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0001copy_zps714d5834.jpg.html)

There is a plastic guide clipped to the left side of the Glove Box and this is likely to drop off as the Glove Box drops to reveal the fuse box behind it.

When re-inserting the Glove Box this plastic guide must be clipped back to the side of the box and guided into the Glove Box Light Switch assembly above it.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0002copy_zpsa6756ce5.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0002copy_zpsa6756ce5.jpg.html)

(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0003copy_zps622ce8ab.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0003copy_zps622ce8ab.jpg.html)

(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0004copy_zps65c25945.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0004copy_zps65c25945.jpg.html)

(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0006copy_zpsb76969a5.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0006copy_zpsb76969a5.jpg.html)

 Step 2. Identify the Fuse position to be used - I used Fuse slot 48 which is a switched live but has no designation in the User manual.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0007copy_zps9c6ab64a.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0007copy_zps9c6ab64a.jpg.html)


Step 3. Crouching in the drivers foot well feed the Mouse through then gap shown until it comes out in the passenger foot well

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0009copy_zpsc8448dd9.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0009copy_zpsc8448dd9.jpg.html)

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0008copy_zpseeb14972.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0008copy_zpseeb14972.jpg.html)


Step 4. Tape the end of the cable you are using to the mouse - you only need a single wire as you are only taking the live feed from the fuse box.  I used a twin wire before I realised that the negative, earth, would be connected behind the drives cubby hole/drawer.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0010copy_zpsdad2802b.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0010copy_zpsdad2802b.jpg.html)

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0011copy_zps9794dbdd.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0011copy_zps9794dbdd.jpg.html)

Step 5. Reuse the Mouse to pull the cable up from the foot well to the back of the Cubby Hole. Insert the mouse through the Dash end plate behind the bunch of wires as pictured and behind the steering column - to ensure the cable will not snag or wear on anything.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0013copy_zps1bb5427f.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0013copy_zps1bb5427f.jpg.html)

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0014copy_zps55bd290c.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0014copy_zps55bd290c.jpg.html)


Step 6. Pull wire though and lead over the back of the drawer ready to connect to the centre connection of the 3 way adapter

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0015copy_zpsa7523a3b.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0015copy_zpsa7523a3b.jpg.html)

Step 7. On the passenger side feed the wire under the flexible foam 'under dash' liner and up into the bottom of the fuse box.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0016copy_zpsf9e7a8aa.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0016copy_zpsf9e7a8aa.jpg.html)


Step 8. Insert the required fuse into the top position of the PiggyBack fuse holder - I used a 10amp fuse - and the insert the fuse holder into the Fuse 48 position.  Crimp the supply wire into the PiggyBack crimp connector.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0017copy_zps55d84516.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0017copy_zps55d84516.jpg.html)

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0018copy_zpsaa73f2cb.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0018copy_zpsaa73f2cb.jpg.html)


Step 9. Route the cables to and from the 3 way adapter into the space behind the cubby hole drawer and ensure they are not going to catch or drag on anything.

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0019copy_zps79d5515d.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0019copy_zps79d5515d.jpg.html)

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0020copy_zpsfdaf764e.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0020copy_zpsfdaf764e.jpg.html)

Solder the live feed wire to the centre connector of the adapter - insulate the connection well.

Route the earth/negative cable from the adapter to one of the holes in the metal chassis member behind the cubby hole and use a suitable nut, bolt and washers to bolt the wire to the chassis.

IMPORTANT - using a digital multimeter check for continuity between the side connector of the adaptor and the chassis - check there is not continuity to the centre connector on the adapter. Switch on the ignition and using the meter check that the centre connector of the adapter is now live.  If not check that you have inserted the piggyback fuse holder correctly, that the fuse you inserted is OK, that the crimp connection is solid and that the soldering to the adapter is OK.

Step 10. Insert a device into the adapter and check it works as normal then route the device cable along the windscreen/dash to the passenger side and run it along the side of the windscreen and down into the side of the dash over the back of the cubby hole drawer and plug it into the adapter. Repeat for all devices and ensure that any excess cable is coiled and tied into a safe place either inside or behind the cubby hole.

If using USB cables then insert a USB power supply into 1 of the Adapter sockets

Step 11. Replace the dash side cover - just clips into place if aligned correctly

 (http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y438/1vidman/Adapter/IMG_0021copy_zps47fe462b.jpg) (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/1vidman/media/Adapter/IMG_0021copy_zps47fe462b.jpg.html)

Step 12. Enjoy the lack of loose cables connected to the centre console.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: DougL on 12 November 2013, 20:01
I used that same fuse position to wire in my satnav unit. I was cheap, however, and didn't buy the piggyback holder. I simply drilled a hole through a fuse and soldered a wire onto it. Works perfectly.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: GrahamFR on 13 November 2013, 10:15
Perfect Vidman2, thank you
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: RikWebb on 15 February 2014, 21:31
Brill - many thanks mate - helped me a lot with the dashcam install

 :smiley:
Rik
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: vidman2 on 10 December 2015, 10:46
Just done my own mod on my new R, Exactly the same method but had to take the passenger side front plastic side trim off as the Mouse took a slightly different path behind the pipes and harnesses.  Not difficult, just one star screw retainer but had to be careful lining up the rear push clips as you can not see them. Only added about 10 minutes to the whole operation.

Now I can properly wire the DashCam, Speed Camera Detector and Phone in neatly.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: Dr Mike Oxgreen on 02 November 2017, 15:05
Apologies for the thread resurrection.

I am installing my cameras (Mi-Witness front and rear) in my Mark 7 GTI, having previously had them in my Mark 6 TDi.  Installing them in the Mark 6 was simple - remove the panel at the end of the dash, locate permanent and ignition-switched live fuses, using add-a-circuits wire in the Mi-Witness, run cables, congratulate self on a job well done.  The Mi-Witness cameras have a "parking" mode, where they record any movement when the car is parked, hence the need for a permanent live feed.  There is a gizmo which switches the system off if the battery voltage drops below a certain level if the car has been parked up for several days.

The Mark 7 seems to be a different kettle of fish.  I have run the cables from the engine bay to the camera, but I have failed to find an ignition-switched fuse in the engine bay fuse box.  Predictably, the handbook is of no help whatsoever, so does anybody know if there's an "accessory" fuse which is live when the ignition is on?

Thanks!
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: wantmygti on 02 November 2017, 20:58
Apologies for the thread resurrection.

I am installing my cameras (Mi-Witness front and rear) in my Mark 7 GTI, having previously had them in my Mark 6 TDi.  Installing them in the Mark 6 was simple - remove the panel at the end of the dash, locate permanent and ignition-switched live fuses, using add-a-circuits wire in the Mi-Witness, run cables, congratulate self on a job well done.  The Mi-Witness cameras have a "parking" mode, where they record any movement when the car is parked, hence the need for a permanent live feed.  There is a gizmo which switches the system off if the battery voltage drops below a certain level if the car has been parked up for several days.

The Mark 7 seems to be a different kettle of fish.  I have run the cables from the engine bay to the camera, but I have failed to find an ignition-switched fuse in the engine bay fuse box.  Predictably, the handbook is of no help whatsoever, so does anybody know if there's an "accessory" fuse which is live when the ignition is on?

Thanks!

I can’t quite figure out if you are looking for a permanent live or a switched live?? My camera doesn’t have a parking mode and just uses a switches live which I picked up from the fuse box behind the glove box.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: Dr Mike Oxgreen on 02 November 2017, 21:08
Apologies for the thread resurrection.

I am installing my cameras (Mi-Witness front and rear) in my Mark 7 GTI, having previously had them in my Mark 6 TDi.  Installing them in the Mark 6 was simple - remove the panel at the end of the dash, locate permanent and ignition-switched live fuses, using add-a-circuits wire in the Mi-Witness, run cables, congratulate self on a job well done.  The Mi-Witness cameras have a "parking" mode, where they record any movement when the car is parked, hence the need for a permanent live feed.  There is a gizmo which switches the system off if the battery voltage drops below a certain level if the car has been parked up for several days.

The Mark 7 seems to be a different kettle of fish.  I have run the cables from the engine bay to the camera, but I have failed to find an ignition-switched fuse in the engine bay fuse box.  Predictably, the handbook is of no help whatsoever, so does anybody know if there's an "accessory" fuse which is live when the ignition is on?

Thanks!

I can’t quite figure out if you are looking for a permanent live or a switched live?? My camera doesn’t have a parking mode and just uses a switches live which I picked up from the fuse box behind the glove box.

I'm looking for a switched live, ideally in the engine bay fuse box.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: wantmygti on 02 November 2017, 22:09
But why go in to the engine bay, when there are several to choose from behind the glove box?
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: Dr Mike Oxgreen on 03 November 2017, 20:54
But why go in to the engine bay, when there are several to choose from behind the glove box?

Easier access to the fuse box.  I have to say, putting the main fuse box behind the glove box, which you have to remove in order to change a fuse, is one of the stupidest design 'solutions" I've ever encountered.  The Mark 6 solution is so much better, with the fuses behind a removable panel on the end of the dash is so much better.

Oh well.  Removal of the glove box it is, then.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: wantmygti on 04 November 2017, 11:45
But why go in to the engine bay, when there are several to choose from behind the glove box?

Easier access to the fuse box.  I have to say, putting the main fuse box behind the glove box, which you have to remove in order to change a fuse, is one of the stupidest design 'solutions" I've ever encountered.  The Mark 6 solution is so much better, with the fuses behind a removable panel on the end of the dash is so much better.

Oh well.  Removal of the glove box it is, then.

If you squeeze the sides of the glove box you can get it to drop forward exposing th fuse board in seconds. You don’t actually need to ‘remove’ anything.
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: Dr Mike Oxgreen on 05 November 2017, 15:19
But why go in to the engine bay, when there are several to choose from behind the glove box?

Easier access to the fuse box.  I have to say, putting the main fuse box behind the glove box, which you have to remove in order to change a fuse, is one of the stupidest design 'solutions" I've ever encountered.  The Mark 6 solution is so much better, with the fuses behind a removable panel on the end of the dash is so much better.

Oh well.  Removal of the glove box it is, then.

If you squeeze the sides of the glove box you can get it to drop forward exposing th fuse board in seconds. You don’t actually need to ‘remove’ anything.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.  I should have fitted the cameras a few weeks ago, when the weather was warmer.  Still.  I'll get it done asap and report back.  Might even take some photos!
Title: Re: Fitting a 3-4 way Cigy power adapter
Post by: Dr Mike Oxgreen on 06 November 2017, 18:42
Progress has been made!  I have released the glovebox, and located one switched live and one permanent live fuse.

It's easier, or less difficult, to release the glovebox after driving the car with the heater on, as this makes the clips slightly more compliant.  They still don't give up without a fight, though.

I'll resume tomorrow, because I'm going to make an earth connection by drilling the strengthening strut at the end of the dashboard, having removed the trim panel (carefully, because it has the switch for disabling the passenger airbag mounted to it), but my rechargeable drill needed to be charged.  The mounting bolt for the fuse box would suffice as an earth point, but it's not easily accessible.

Tomorrow, then, I'll make the earth connection, route the cables (I may leave the rear camera for now) and tidy up the excess wiring, the plan being to strap it up using tie-wraps. 

More later.