Clamp the lower coolant line going to the exhaust cooler. Now remove the smaller coolant hose attached to the top of the cooler:-
Remove three #10 hex bolts that hold the exhaust cooler to the intake manifold. Tie the exhaust cooler so it is up and out of your way:-
Remove six #6 cap screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine block. The 2nd bolt in from the left hit a heat shield on its way out. You may have to bend the heat shield a small amount by bashing it (GENTLY!) with a hammer and long tool such as a screwdriver or punch. Do not loose the gasket as you pull the intake manifold out:-
This is the intake manifold. Make note of where the six bolts are, as you will not be able to see them as you remove or replace them. I do not have my manual yet, but I would recommend the following pattern to tighten these bolts when reinstalling 531246. (That pattern may change as soon as I get my manual):-
The gunk I cleaned out of my EGR valve and intake manifold:-
To clean out this gunk I scraped out as much as I could with hand tools, and a foot long piece of stiff wire. Once the big stuff was gone I used brake cleaner to help loosen the rest. The gunk came out easily as it was rather moist (think of the stuff in a day old coffee filter). If yours is very thick, or hard you may need to soak it overnight, or as some have suggested bring it to a glass bead machine.
The following are pictures of all the tools I used in this project just in case you are not familiar with them all:-
1. Water and towel-less hand cleaner (Use often, no need to put dirty finger prints everywhere).
2. Magnetic parts bowl to hold the parts you remove
3. Hammer to bash (GENTLY) heat shields with (a mechanics best friend)
4. Prying tool (didnÂ’t actually use this)
5. Long regular head screwdriver to be used with the hammer
6. Smaller and well (ab)used regular head screwdriver to use for scraping gunk with.
7. Screwdriver with changeable heads
8. Notepad and pen (so I could write this article)
9. Flashlight
10. Small adjustable wrench
11. #10 open/box wrench
12. #6 open/box wrench
13. Small hook type tool to scrape gunk with
14. Magnetic socket inserts (these can really help you prevent loosing bolts under the car)
15. Magnet on a wand (a mechanics 2nd best friend)
16. Inspection mirror (to find those pesky bolt holes behind the engine)
17. Allen wrench set (metric) with the ball ends
18. Allen wrench set (metric) on a 3/8 socket base
19. #10 hex socket
20. Water pump pliers (used these on some hose clamps)
21. Hose pinching pliers
22. Pliers (again for hose clamps)
23. ¼ and 3/8 drive mini ratchet things
24. ¼ and 3/8 drive socket extensions long and short
25. ¼ and 3/8 drive universal joints
26. ¼ and 3/8 ratchet wrenches
27. 3/8 stubby/flex handle ratchet wrench (this WILL fit those tight places. Highly recommended!)
Your tools will vary, and IÂ’ll leave it to you to decide what of the above tools youÂ’d like to have on hand during this job.
The job was not too bad. IÂ’d rate it a 5 for difficulty (on a scale of 10). The biggest problem IÂ’d expect someone to run into is applying proper torque to the fasteners. The job is not much fun though (took about 4 hours), and you will be spending a lot of time leaning over the car trying to reach the rear of the engine.
Original link:-
http://pics2.tdiclub.com/gwillie/VW/Sballintake/INTAKEMAN101b.htm