Author Topic: EGR Valve - How to access?  (Read 1834 times)

Offline MysteryMan

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EGR Valve - How to access?
« on: 28 February 2015, 11:47 »
I have a 2006 Mk5 Golf GTI and, in the 2 years I've had it, had always had a very flat/hesitant performance at low revs (< 2500).

I came across a few posts from people who described my car's behavior to an absolute T and they diagnosed the problem as being the EGR valve.

It would be really great if this was easy to access and have a look at to see if it could be that.

Can anyone tell me if this is possible and, even, better give some guidance for how to get at it?

Thanks!

PS. Can anyone confirm if it is possible to remove the EGR valve, replace with blanking plate and remap the ECU to prevent warning light?
« Last Edit: 01 March 2015, 12:27 by MysteryMan »

Offline golfgttdi2004

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Re: EGR Valve - How to access?
« Reply #1 on: 02 March 2015, 09:29 »
fairly straightforward, i have the same problem mate, took out the EGR and manifold and cleaned them. Symbol went then came back. Passed MOT. here is a guide.

http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=72241.0

Offline MysteryMan

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Re: EGR Valve - How to access?
« Reply #2 on: 02 March 2015, 09:48 »
I have the petrol 2.0TFSI engine and have since been told that this does not have an EGR valve!!!!

So, will have to look elsewhere for the problem.

Drat!

Offline golfgttdi2004

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Re: EGR Valve - How to access?
« Reply #3 on: 02 March 2015, 12:28 »
get the car scanned?

Offline MysteryMan

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Re: EGR Valve - How to access?
« Reply #4 on: 02 March 2015, 13:30 »
get the car scanned?

Do you mean - scanned for faults?

I have done this and nothing shows up.

When I first got the car (2 years ago) and it was behaving at low revs like it still is then the MAF sensor was suspected as being the culprit. So, it was disconnected and the car driven - much smoother and nicer to drive. So, I splashed out on a new sensor and put it in. Disappointingly, it was back to the poor performance. So, either it wasn't that or I bought a duff sensor. Interestingly, I've just tried disconnecting the sensor again and, yes, it does drive much better.

Could this point to the problem being in the airflow?