GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 how to guides + info => Topic started by: jamie16v on 15 November 2011, 21:31
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BEWARE, you will be working on the fuel system of the vehicle. as you know petrol is highly flammable and the fumes can overwhelm you. the fuel system is also pressurised. you do not want this penetrating your skin, eyes or any other orefice in that matter.. :shocked:
tools you will need are :
10mm spanner (to disconnect battery)
large philips screwdriver (to remove fuel pump cover)
stanley knife
torx set
flat blade screwdriver
old soldering iron (for plastic welding and soldering of course)
junior hacksaw (to cut tube on mesh filter)
1. Depressureise the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse and start the engine, the engine will soon cut out, then
disconnect battery.
2. lift rear bench behind drivers seat and notice a flap in the carpet, lift it to expose the black cover.
3. remove the 3 screws, keep safe and remove cover plate.
4. remove the wiring plug from the top of the pump by pushing in the metal wire clip and pulling the plug.
5. note which pipe is flow and which is return and mark one so you know which is which.
6.remove the two pipes by pushing in a little tab on the side of the connector whilst pulling the pipe.
7. move pipes and wiring out of the way and undo the big black ring nut.
the pump should now be carefuly removed and careful not to damage the fuel level float, also take note that the
pump will store alot of fuel so let it drain before removing fully.
8.once you have the pump out and on the bench you need to remove these four screws.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/fuelpumpscrews.jpg)
9. take the spade connectors off the top of the old pump and remove the one time pipe clips from the flow pipe.
10. the flow pipe may be a little stubborn, what i did was sliced down it with a stanley knife to
loosen it and remove.
11. next you need to separate the lid off the swirl pot and remove the pump, to do this you need to pry
these tabs all the way around the pot.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/Pic_1111_007.jpg)
12. once the pot is off you will need to take the gauze off and cut the tube off, this will let the new fuel
pump sit lower in the pot.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/Pic_1115_007.jpg)
13. now you will need to pastic weld a peice of solvent resistant plastic onto the bottom of the pot to cover
the hole. i used an oil bottle top.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/Pic_1115_002.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/Pic_1115_006.jpg)
14, you will now need to drill a small 4mm hole in the bottom of the pot. this will allow the pump to fill
with fuel and is small enough to stop the pot from emptying too quickly when you corner ect. see the above pic
to see the drilled hole next to the plastic welding.
REFITTING
15. refit the gauze you took off to cut the tube off.
16. fit the rubber pipe that came with your new pump to the new pump and secure with supplied jubilee clip.
17. fit rubber covers to pump and slot into pot. fit filter.
18. plug the loom into the pump and refit the pot lid with the wires coming through the hole in the lid.
19. desolder the old (black and yellow) wires that go to the top assembly and fit your new spade connectors onto
the tabs. i soldered the spades onto the tabs to prevent any arcing. secure the wires neatly with a cable tie. (TAKE NOTE) the earth wire is on the rounded
side of the plug and the 12v on the opposite. see pic below.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/Pic_1115_008.jpg)
20. fit the other end of the rubber pipe you have already connected to your pump to the top assemble that you removed
the old hose from and secure with jubilee clip.
21. fix the top assemply back to the swirl pot with the four screws you removed earlier.
22. fit pump assembly back to car in reversal from step 7 to step 2
if you spot any errors in this guide please let me know so i can correct it.
NOTE. this is to be used as a guide only, i will not be held responsible if you damage your car or any other property,
cause injury or death to yourself or anyone else.
this is a drawing i designed before doing the work
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/citroenaxgtr/fueltankandpumpassembly.jpg)
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Sticky material.
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Sticky material.
cheers dave! :smiley:
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well done jamie. Its nice when someone puts in the effort. :cool:
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Good write up :afro:
Sticky material.
cheers dave! :smiley:
done :smiley:
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yay, i`m on the wall of fame. :laugh:
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i have edited this guide, fit the small bag filter if possible, then the gauze on the bottom wont need fitting..
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Printing this out now, BAM pump in today hopefully :grin:
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HOW THE FCUK DO YOU GET PUMP BACK IN WITH THAT STUPID RUBBER SEAL THING!!! GRRRRRRR
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iirc you fit the rubber to the tank first and not the pump itself.. cant really remember, try a few combinations, you`ll figure it in the end lol. it done my swede in for a couple of mins..
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Eventually got it 5 mins after that message lol.
Put rubber over pump and get half way in there, then there's a bit where the pump isnt completely cylindrical which gives you abit of room.
Put the rubber on, and slam that pump in! :grin:
Job done! :smiley:
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am i right in saying, if i was to get an uprated pump+swirl pot from an lcr, i'd only have to get up to step 7? ie, take current swirl pot out, disconnect plug and 2 hoses. put lcr pot in, connect plug and 2 hoses? and possible new o rings etc.
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Indeed. Straight swap.
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nice one :afro:
a lot less steps :D
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Interesting guide, I like it.
One question though.....
Does anyone know exactly how much fuel comes back through the fuel return line? and does the return just pour back into the main tank, or directly into the swirl pot?
reason I ask, is that in my track car I'm flat out for much longer periods than you'd ever be in a road car, and with my injectors running near flat out at 350bhp I'd worry that the combination of a 4mm hole and the fuel return line wouldn't keep up with flow enough, considering the main lines are I think 8mm dia.
What stops the swirl pot from being emptied faster than it can fill?
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I would guess it would be dependent on how your driving the car, piddling round town you would get a return but im sure at near flat out at 350bhp there is not going to alot of fuel returning.
Maybe use one of the uprated fuel rails that doesnt have the return?
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Ok by reading some google stuff dont think we can run a non-return fuel rail, well not with out alot of pointless work.
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Prawn I'm sure you would be best having a external swirl pot.
Usin you original pump as a low pressure pump To fill the swirl pot (1L or so) with a return to the tank.
Then use a walbro inline pump to pump from the bottom of the swirl pot o the fuel rail and return to the top of the swirl pot :smiley:
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Bit like this...
(http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa433/golfyste/5B33CE51-811D-4862-9A08-857423EFCEE6-4367-000003671D78726E.jpg)
:smiley:
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just to update on this, i do currently get a bit of fuel starvation when low on fuel (only when im just about to touch the red and going round roundabouts below 1/4 tank). it may need a bigger hole than 4mm as prawny suggested that the fuel lines are 8mm and pressureised, something i didnt think of.. or it may just be a sh!t design.. i will experiment with the size of the hole and report back
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right, i`ve drilled two smaller holes. i`ve not run low enough on fuel yet to see how its working but will see if there`s any difference.
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Nice R&D project James :wink:
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R&D? i`m sure that was meant for another topic, lol
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Research & development :wink:
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ah, i see.. lol.. cant go spending loads on it though, if it doesnt work after many trials then i`m binning it and buying and LCR pump.
i have drilled small holes on either side of the pot to see if this aids filling of the pot. but i dont want it to empty too quick either lol.
well see when i`m on the red again. :grin:
cheers dave. :wink:
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looks like this design is a load of tosh.. needs to go
ADMIN please delete :embarrassed:
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Really? What's happened?
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nothing as such tbh mate, just can`t get rid of this starvation when just before the red ( when going around roundabouts etc) tbh i think its pretty normal for a high pressure in tank pump to do it without some serious plan to eradicated it.
the pump works fine when theres plenty of fuel btw :smiley:
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Arse. I was hoping someone would have found an acceptable solution to this.
I am in need of a pump NOWish, and have a walbro, and just modified a swirl pot like yours Jamie at the weekend. I'm yet to fit it though.
How does the fuel starvation appear? stuttering? conking out? I'd be worried about the potential damage caused by fuel starvation if it stareted to do it on track for example.
I'd erally rather NOT have to pay for £160ish required to nicely install an 044 or DA31 inline.
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it sort of conked out until the fuel settled back into the tank. whats wrong with your LCR pump?
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I know of one for sale already made up
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My old one? :huh:
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don't think so, a guy on ED38 has one for sale
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got a link wes?
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http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=503803&hl=
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not mine :grin:
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Hello,
I would like to know if you have find a solution for the starvation problem. I've installed a Walbro fuel pump after I started using E85 on my 1.6 Golf. The car stopped just after enterring on the highway... So I'm planning to instal it like you but I wonder if it will work.
Moreover, my 1.6 uses less fuel than your GTIs, so I wonder if I should drill a smaller or a bigger whole.
Thank you.