GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => Cosmetic and bodywork matters => Topic started by: Ashley on 29 February 2008, 21:16
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Hi Guys,
After finally finding out my colour code for my golf I've decided I need to fix some rust on the driverside wheel arch and a tiny bit on the boot (near the windscreen wiper)
I've searched around the forum for an How-To post etc but I've been unable to find one - can anyone talk me through how to treat say a piece of bubbly rust?
I've bought some kurust, body filler, wet n' dry, primer and masking tape, and I've got a fairly good idea of how to do it, but could anyone give me a few tips? Should I get a can of paint made up to spray?
My car colour is LP5U Bright Blue Metallic - probably a stupid question but will I need any laqcuer?
I hope some of you could help me..
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- grind the area back to metal - take your time doing this and do it gently
- treat the metal with rust stuff like kurust
- fill the area with filler - layer it if the application needs to be deep
- sand the area back, sand it again, and again... get finer and finer with your sanding till you wet n dry - use a sanding block
- mask everything and anything you can (including yourself!)
- prime
- sand
- prime
- sand - repeat prime and sand until you are happy with the finish
- wet n dry
- wash it down
- tack cloth - literally tacky cloth
- test spray on an old bit of metal - spray off the area and then across - repeat this process until you have your technique down (will pay dividends later)
- make sure your spraying area is warm, clean, dry, dust free, windless - really advise against doing this outside - inside in a large well ventilated dust free environment is best esp at this time of year
- shake the can well, then shake the can well, then shake it again etc - you get the picture
- spray by building up the layers of paint - take your time over this
- lacquer is good for a good finish but only if your paint is finished well
- let the paint dry and harden over a two week or so period and then cut it back to match in with the surrounding paint
- then apply a wax to protect
the paint you can get your dealer to mix up and they do a touch up kit with a lacquer for about 12/15 quid i think - you just need to give them your paint code
you can get halfrauds to mix up the paint too i think but i don't know about the quality
90% of getting this job right is in the preparation... take short cuts in the prep and it'll show through from a mile
please anyone feel free to correct me if you feel this advice is incorrect or can be improved upon
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I'm going to be busy..
When you say over a 2 week period before cutting it back, it's fine to take the car out yeah?
cheers for that!
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nooo - leave it in the garage and don't whatever you do move it at all... :laugh:
seriously - yep - it's fine to drive it about once the paint has dried... just make sure it is proper dry before you take it out
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Sorry, am probably being thick, but what is cutting back?
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Any tips at all on this monstrosety? (see 'cosmetic matters' to comment, soz)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5412/rustyzy8.th.png)
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Sorry, am probably being thick, but what is cutting back?
its using a compound with light abrasives in it to essentially cut back a layer of paint... you then polish it
the aim of which is to match in your new paint with your 'old' paint so it won't be as noticeable that the new paint has been applied
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Here's a tip that I picked up from a mate at a paint shop....
If you're spraying using off the shelf rattle cans use your Missus' hair dryer to warm up the panel just before you spray it, also put the can of paint in a tub of "as hot as you can get it out a tap" water. Still shake the hell out of it but the idea is to get the paint warm so that it sticks better, drys a bit quicker & doesn't run or collect dust etc.
:smiley:
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Good shout chaps.
I have noticed a few rusty bits popping up on my mk3.
I'll post some pictures up when I can be arsed.
I'm hoping this method will cure them all!
Cheers.
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ive got a little bit of rust on my drivers side sill, but im gunna fit gti skirts to cover it :smiley: and i got a 2penny sized rust bubble on my door so im just gunna buy a new door in my colour from the breakers,
my question is , is ther somthing i can just put on the rust before i fit the skirts to stop it from spreading any more??
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depending on how bad it is you need to gring it/sand it and put some kurust on it
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What about stone chips?
I've got one or two that a previous owner hasn't dealt with, the chip exposed the bare metal and so it's a little rust, don't know if it's worth the risk of me 'having a go' vs further damage.
Is there some simple way of dealing with these instead of grinding back?
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in the how to, what do you mean by "tack cloth"?
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Hi guys
I've got quite a deep bit of rust by the petrol cap (inside the door around the screw cap) when I pressed my finger in to it it went in a bit, not all the way through! Any ideas on what to do with this? Obviously I'm not that bothered how it looks cosmetically seeing as though it's behind the petrol flat but Im a bit concerned that it's going to get worse and cause major probs.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers :sad:
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at my work we do alot of rusty mercs and other rusty sh!t wot we do is
grind the rust off with a grinder or belt sander
once every trace of rust has gone sand the area bak
then apply a good filler
sand this bak untill the filler work is right
once it is corrrect prime it i dont no y people say to flat the primer in between coats but i dont no of anywer that duz this
once the primer has gone off flat it off mask the area and paint
once the paint has gone of flat dirt out of the paintwiv 2000 and buff up with a polisher
but ffs dont get the repair wet b4 u paint because primer lets water in and the filler holds it like a sponge agenst the metal and this makes it rust agen and also dont ask people who work at halfords (no offence if u do) but they ent panel beaters or painters ur beta off askin a body shop
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What about stone chips?
I've got one or two that a previous owner hasn't dealt with, the chip exposed the bare metal and so it's a little rust, don't know if it's worth the risk of me 'having a go' vs further damage.
Is there some simple way of dealing with these instead of grinding back?
i also would like to know how to deal with stone chips, anyone got any tips?
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i saw a guide for repairing stone chips on detailing world, they showed them touched up with a touch up stick, flatted back with 1500 grit wet n dry and then rubbing compound and a good polish :smiley:
looked good as new :smiley:
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if you have to leave the paint to dry for 2 weeks something is wrong.
i have painted in 2k paint left to air dry and polished/mopped it the next day or painted 2k in a oven(morning) and polished late that same day, or the 1k stuff for smart repairs and polished after a few hours.
i use 2k high build primer, i dont sand between coats, no point.
:smiley:
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If you have rust that you are just going to cover up with plastic trim...(which i wouldnt recommend because rust doesnt just go away!) then coat it in waxoil. That should do something towards halting it but never as good as grinding it back and coating it in Krust.
Even if you don't re-paint it just do the above and paint over the Krust with some hammerite and then stick the plastic trim over it.....you dont want to be a couple of years down the line with the trim falling off because the holes have totally rusted out!
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Here's a link to a guide I did some time ago, Not a VW, but very relevant http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=93525.0
Thom
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I also see no reason to flat between coats of primer providing the coats haven't been allowed ot dry and harden between coats.
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hi
my front wing looks like has been can sprayed by the previous owner & the front end of the bonnet is patchy where again it looks like he finely sprayed it with a can(t***) will a cutting compound get rid of the slight run on the wing?? & if i also use a finishing liquid will this give me a good finish?? or is it a case of total respray for these two panels??? can you help?? :undecided:
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Hey, i just got a mk3 to do up, its white and has some stencils painted on it and a couple of rust spots :rolleyes:
i know the basics to spraying over these, but i only have grey primer, is this ok to use under white paint or do i need to use a different colour primer?
thanks
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I need to do rust repairing on my Golf in a few areas, do I have to use a grinder/sander? Can I not just use sanding sheets and do it by hand?
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I need to do rust repairing on my Golf in a few areas, do I have to use a grinder/sander? Can I not just use sanding sheets and do it by hand?
i was just about to ask this... not got much access to any power tools
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I need to do rust repairing on my Golf in a few areas, do I have to use a grinder/sander? Can I not just use sanding sheets and do it by hand?
i was just about to ask this... not got much access to any power tools
I've been reading up on it and another thing that might be useful is a wire brush (heavy duty if needed). I'm not fussed about 'damaging' the surrounding paintwork as I will be sanding it all down when it comes to satin painting it. Just want to get most, if not all of the visible rust gone.
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Black & Decker Powerfile is your friend, I wouldn't be without mine. Buy the belts of Ebay for cheapness and it gets into the tightest of spaces.
(http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdImage/TB20370.jpg)
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Just a quick few comments upon spray jobs
A chap on here already mentioned heating up the panel prior spraying with a hair dryer ( you could buy an industrial one as this won't overheat like your misses will if you break her hair dryer before a big night out ).
He also mentioned to use hot water to heat your can up prior to use - Tip on top of this: keep the can immersed in the hot water especially when near the end of the contents as this will give more energy to the contents inside giving a better spray and retard the presence of droplets that will sit out of an near empty can ( think of the Brownian motion experiment at school science class - the more heat you use the more random the gas shoots about - Warning though direct heat will be extremely hazardous as your using solvent which are flammable hence hot water being used only!!)
Top tip - pay attention to the style of the nozzle, many cheap versions will not only spit paint out unevenly but will paint your fingers in the process (careful where you put these painted nails!) If you can get hold of the wider styles nozzles almost like a mini air horn, your fingers are well behind the nozzle and the spread spray throughout is a hell of a lot better than your average Halfrauds stock.
Thanks for your time . . .
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I am looking to repair some rust patches close to my wheel arches and side skirts. I am pondering whether to do the job myself. I noticed this company sell D.I.Y scratch repair kits with their touch up paint. [url]https://www.mpexdirect.com[url] I have never painted a car before if you opt for the brush does it leave a good finish? It's just small specs of rust patches that I need to remove
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Brush in my experience leaves marks