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General => General discussion => Non-Golf gallery => Topic started by: jv on 20 January 2008, 13:32

Title: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: jv on 20 January 2008, 13:32
Damn those cheap US car prices! :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 January 2008, 18:51
So here is my new toy - My daily driver (yep the US pricing is good JV. )

2005 Audi A4 USP (Ultra Sports Package) Avant
Colour: RED
Quattro AWD S-line (Standard 190BHP) :)
Mileage:27,700
Engine:  1.8 DOHC SEFI 20-valve I4 turbocharged engine
Exterior: Red
Interior: Black Leather
Wheels - 18'' :) need more width though!!!
Featured Equipment
           BOSE Stereo system

custom work already:
            Tinted Glass all around :)
            Front number plate removed and bumper smoothed off

Work to happen:
   New suspension - can't make mind up Air Ride or Coilovers!
              New wheels
   Sat NAV head unit with DVD player and Screen
   Remap, upgrade injectors, upgrade BV, and K04 Turbo, custom Manifold and upgraded intercooler - more BHP!!!

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/Audi-A4%20Avant/audi-red.jpg)

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/Audi-A4%20Avant/audi-red3.jpg)




Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 January 2008, 20:45
So I have the car scheduled in with Audi dealer to get the following work completed on 30th Jan


Once I have this work completed, then roll on Air ride and new wheels  :grin:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 21 September 2008, 04:57
fat wheels for the audi - 20's.....!!!

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/Audi-A4%20Avant/audi-20.jpg)

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/Audi-A4%20Avant/audi-20-4.jpg)

I've got to complete some arch work before I can completely drop the suspension all the way down, but looking good, more updates soon.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 20 March 2011, 10:50
New Daily driver toy!  3.5 liters V6 Engine

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/P1010670.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/P1010665.jpg)

Will allow me to pickup and now start working on the Audi & CAB - BLACK SOY :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 24 April 2011, 02:48
So today was the start of cleaning the paint on the daily and onto the Audi tomorrow and hopefully clean the BLACK SOY too! So out come my new Makita Electronic Polisher-Sander and Polishing kit.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/92f12ded.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/00-1.jpg)

Now for some unknown reason the paint work on the daily has white paint all over it and washing didn't get it off, so the polisher will  :evil:

Taping up plastic parts, so I don't have to go clean them as well!! (Time to make a mess!!!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/01-1.jpg)

and after 4 hours - the paint work is like new!!

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/clean-car.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-1.jpg)

High Five myself!! lol
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/side-view.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/bonnet.jpg)

Time for a few well earned Beers  :grin: :grin:

Also brought a few items for the Audi :) - I will be installing these tomorrow and will provide updates on Monday! :)

- S4 Engine covers,
- Exhaust tips,
- RS4 brake handle
- Custom A4 Avant matt cover for the boot
- New Right hand side boot Strap as it broke - not looking forward to that job, have to take most of the inside panels off!!! O the fun!

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 24 April 2011, 23:31
I have a very productive day, with installing the following on the Audi.
  - S4 OEM Engine covers,
  - Exhaust tips,
  - RS4 brake handle,
  - Custom A4 Avant matt cover for the boot,
  - New Right hand side boot Strap as it broke - not looking forward to that job, have to take most of the inside panels off!!! O the fun,
  - And of course cleaned the car  :laugh:

I will write up all the items over the next few days, but here is the engine covers installation!

Installation of S4 OEM Engine covers

Required parts I order for this installation; (from https://www.europaparts.com)
  - Rain Tray Cover -OE Part #: 8E181944701C
  - Battery Cover - OE Part #: 8E1819422A01C
  - OEM Right Engine Cover - OE Part #: 8E0103927F

Other parts required to secure the right Engine cover
  - 1-Holder (bracket): OEM part # 8E0-899-803
  - 1-Bolt: OEM part # N-105-538-01
  -1-Spacers: OEM part # 078-129-734-A
  -2-Grommets: OEM part # 078-129-669

The goods turned up  :cool:
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/0-Parcel-of-goodies.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/0-vnew-engine-tray-battery-covers.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/01-new-rhs-engine-side-cover-part2.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/01-s-engine-cover-securing-parts-new-ecs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/01-t-engine-cover-securing-parts-new-with-labels.jpg)

Time to install!!
Here is a picture of the engine before starting, lovely and dirty!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2Engine-before.jpg)

I spent a good hour cleaning up the engine bay, with clothes and brushes, with it ending up looking like this!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4engine-bay-clean-before-cover-install2.jpg)

I installed the Rain tray cover, this just clip into place, no required additional securing of it
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/5engine-bay-after-tray-battery-cover-installed.jpg)
And then the Battery cover, this just slides into place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6engine-bay-after-tray-battery-cover-installed2.jpg)

So now onto the OEM Right Engine Cover, the before shoot!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/Engine-before2.jpg)

For the Right engine cover you do need to install two secure parts first.
Step 1 – take require parts and put together as per pictures below
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder2.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder3.jpg)

Step 2, remove current bolt in place shown below
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder4.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder5.jpg)

I compared the original bolt and new part!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder6.jpg)

Step 3 install new bolt
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder7.jpg)

First secure part installed and completed

Second secure part installation!

Again take parts and put together.
Step 1 Take one of the rubber gommets and using the Bolt removed from the first secure part, put screw through gommet and then screw into the (holder) bracket and you should end up with the following;
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder9.jpg)
You will see in pictures additional screws, two of these will be used to secure this item to the car. The screws will be cut down, as these ones in the picture are too long!

Step 2 "The holder (bracket) needs to be attached to the underside of the main radiator support
(right under the rubber seal) on the B6 models there are no pre-drilled holes for this, like the B7 models. I measured up a few times and tested out the cover in place and then drilled two holes and installed the bracket in place as seen below!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder9b.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder9c.jpg)
Step 3 – Install the OEM Right engine cover, stand back and just look at install
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder-9d-complete.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder9e.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder-9e-complete1.jpg)

And now the completed Engine bay area with the new covers  :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: Very happy with the results!

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder-9g-complete.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/rhs-holder-9h-complete.jpg)

Another job complete  :smiley:


Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 24 April 2011, 23:49
Exhaust tips installation
So the Audi is still under a Factory Warranty, so I don’t want to void that and with the current Exhaust on the car is like new, I didn’t want to replace it, but the Exhaust tips in my view are just too small and don’t finish off the back of the car well.

So I ordered new Exhaust tips ($25 - so cheap!!!, best buy for the car so far!!) and here is the installation!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-new-tips.jpg)

The before shoot!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-Exhaust-before.jpg)

Due to you need to cut off the current Exhaust tips which by the way are welded on, you need to jack up the rear of the car. So using my jack up goes the car! (low profile jack!!!!!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-jack-up.jpg)

I then used my electric saw with metal bit..
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-the-cutter.jpg)

And with-in about 30sec, the exhaust was cut!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/5-the-cut.jpg)

One Exhaust tip off!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6-standard-tip-off.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/8-no-tip.jpg)

Comparison of the old to new!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/7-old-and-new.jpg)

And then install the new Exhaust tip!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-compare.jpg)

I then repeated the same steps on the other side and job complete, now the rear looks much better!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/complete.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 25 April 2011, 00:52
Installation of RS4 Brake Handle

So on my B6 S-Line has the steering wheel and gear shifter as in RS4, yet the brake handle isn’t, so I ordered one from www.ecstuning.com

Here is picture of the new RS4 and standard brake handle!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/brake-handle-comparsion-1.jpg)

So to get your current brake handle off, you need to pull your brake handle up as far as you can and using a small screw driver, put screw driver into the click as in pictures below and push clip forward and up, so that you can then pull the brake handle forward and it should come off!

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/brake-handle-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/brake-handle2-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/brake-handle3.jpg)

You then install the new brake handle. You will hear it clip noise once its properly pushed on and into place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/brake-handle4.jpg)

Now the Steering wheel, gear stick and Brake handle all match!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 25 April 2011, 01:05
Installation of custom A4 Avant boot Mat

So after the winter period the boot area of the Audi has got really messed up, specially the carpet, so I spent hour cleaning it with water washer. I wanted to protect the boot area carpet, so I bought a custom Avant boot Mat for the Audi.

Custom Boot Matt arrived!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-boot-matt.jpg)

What the boot area looks like standard, after cleaning;
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-Boot-before.jpg)

Installation is very easy, just place Matt in and it fits really well and stays in place!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-boot-after.jpg)

AAA Pack in place and all done!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-complete.jpg)
You will see on the right hand side the Boot side strap, which I replaced today, details on how do to do that will be published shortly!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 26 April 2011, 10:04
Installation of Audi Avant RHS new side strap in boot (April 2011)

So in my Audi Avant has is a side retaining strap on the right hand side of the boot, which I use a lot, as its useful. Last month this snapped and so I ordered new parts from local Audi dealer (very expensive!) Here is the installation as I couldn’t find this anywhere online or in A4 Audi manual I have, but the manual did provide useful details of roughly how to take the rear panels apart! :)

Step 1 – Need to make sure the new strap is correct compared to the old!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/c5fbf25c.jpg)

Step 2 – Need to take off the tailgate sill trim (see picture and steps below from the A4 Manual!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1a.jpg)

Tailgate sill trim off and the new strap!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1b.jpg)

Step 3 - need to take off the tailgate side trim (see picture below for guide only, as this only shows the left hand side and not the right hand side trim, but they are installed the same way which is good  )
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1c.jpg)

Some shoots of parts I unscrewed.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1d.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/2.jpg)

Can see the clips that hold the panel in place!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/5.jpg)

Step 4 - You can see from below picture the backside of the panel and the end of the strap, which you will need to hold with your fingers, while from the front of the panel using a small screw driver pull the plastic cover out, which will come out of the rear clip you are holding with your fingers.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/6.jpg)
 (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/7.jpg)

Step 5 - You should now be able to pull the strap from behind the panel until you see the end clip
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9g.jpg)

Step 6 - Now open the clip to release the strap and then pull the strap from the front to pull completely from the panel.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9a.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/4.jpg)

Step 7 – You take the new strap, put the front cover on it and feed the strap into the hole in the panel and pull from behind the panel until you have it in position as in picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9b.jpg)

Step 8 - Place the strap into the clip feeding it through.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9c.jpg)

Step 9 - Putting strap correctly into the clip. First feed the strap through first section.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9d.jpg)

Step 10 - Then feed strap under and back through the second section
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9e.jpg)

Step 11 – You place the strap over the spikes and close the clip down, press hard until it clips into place. You now have the clip properly into the strap.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9f.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9g.jpg)

Step 12 - You now pull the strap from the front of the panel until it stops and with you hand behind the panel place the clip flat against the panel and push the plastic cover into the panel hole, which will then click into the clip on the back of the panel and hold it in place. You then feed the strap into the middle clip and into the end holder near the tailgate and you are done!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/9h.jpg)

All complete and ready for usage!!





Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 26 April 2011, 10:10
Over the next few weeks I will be researching suspension and air-ride for the audi. I want the end result to be low and the wheels have to FAT!!!, but I really do need to focus on the BLACK SOY Cab  :smiley:

I really like these wheels
(http://www.adv1wheels.com/adv1wheels/trackspec/images/ADV08_TS.jpg)

and these

(http://rotiform.com/images/product_photography/forged_monoblock_nue_02b.jpg)



Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 May 2011, 23:34
Still researching on air-ride set-up for Audi and now the BLACK SOY as well, getting so excited about working on the cab!

Got a few jobs to do this week on the audi.

- Spray up the rear lights, so all RED (part arrived today to do this)
- Black out out the front grills and rear bumper (parts arrived today to do this)
- Having issues with SatNav keeps shutting off on me, so will need to look into that, hopefully won't be too expensive to fix!

and waiting on reply from Rotiform dealer in California on ETA on wheels order, custom set-up for front/rear and color  :evil: :cool: I will provide update on wheels once they arrive and have them on the car  :cool:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 June 2011, 05:07
Black out out the front grills on Audi A4 (B6) Avant

I forgot to take pictures throughout the process, so I have managed to find pictures via the web to use and explain, thus why you will see blue paintwork instead of red on some of the pictures!

Materials needed:
1 can of spray Plasti-dip (BLACK)
1 set of pliers
1 piece of thin cotton cloth (t-shirt) - enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver
1 small flathead screwdriver
1 Spraygun adapter (optional)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1-plasti.jpg)


Steps:
1. Open up your hood and locate the grille. Using the pliers gently compress the tabs pictured and push slightly outwards (so they don't just lock in place again). The grille will just pop out after that.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/2-topgrill.jpg)

2. Next is the lower grille, no bumper removal needed, just make sure you remove your front license plate holder if you have one, I don't as I have smoothed front bumper :). Gently pull on the sides of the lower grille then using a flathead screwdriver with cloth wrapped around the head (so you don't scratch your paint up) insert it inbetween the grille and the bumper and start gently working your way around from one end to the other. Then just use two hands on each end and pull it out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/3-numberplate.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/4-lower-grill.jpg)

with grills off this was how the car looked :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/5-grill-off.jpg)


3.Next take the flathead screw driver and insert it into the upper grille and start gently working away around it so you can seperate the chrome trim from it.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/6-topgrill-trim-off.jpg)

4. The lower grille just kind of falls apart, you don't need to use a screw driver, just gently seperate it.

5. Take the chrome pieces and wash them thoroughly with soap. Wash the hell out of it so there is no grease on it (grease eats through the Plasti-Dip as it's drying) Dry them off.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/7-grills-apart.jpg)

6. Now we plasti-dip (no sanding required). Start coating the chrome evenly until it is fully painted and set it aside, now repeat the same technique for the lower. Watch out for paintcan drips, as that will only make it take a lot longer to finish the project.

I applied about 4-5 coats on each of my grills, allowing for 10minutes in between coats.

7. Let the grills dry for about 2-4 hours after final coat. (number plate holder also painted in picture!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/8-grills-painted-black.jpg)

8. Reassemble the grilles

9. Pop grilles back into place.

Before
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/before-painting-black.jpg)

After
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/11-finished-on-car2.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/10-finished-on-car.jpg)
All done! I really like the finish as the car is now all Red and Black, expect the wheels and Rear S Badge, which soon will be painted too :)


Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 June 2011, 05:40
Black out rear Aluminum trunk strip on Audi A4 (B6) Avant

Materials needed:
1 Can of spray Pastic-ip (BLACK)
1 flat head screwdriver
1 piece of thin cotton cloth(T-shirt) - enough to cover the tip of screwdriver
1 spraygun adpater (optional)

Steps:

1. Need to remove the chrome strip off as seen below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1-rear-chrome-strip.jpg)

2. Gently start by pulling the front side (closest to end of the car) up using your hands (i didnt need tools just yet) work your way from one corner across to the other end.
(Pictures show chrome strip painted as I forgot to take pictures beforehand!!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/1-taking-strip-off.jpg)

3. Once the first row of clips is out, you can go get a flathead screwdriver, wrap it in thin cotton cloth/rag and work your way in under the strip.

4. Lift the screwdriver upwards and allow it to press the bumper down and flex it so that the clip pops out, gently pull the strip away from the car. Work your way along each clip pulling each time you press the bumper down.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/2-with-screwdrive-taking-strip-off.jpg)

Give you an idea of how the strip is held in place this picture should help!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/3-strip-off.jpg)

Pulling as i go along and the strip will then come off freely.

5. Clean chrome strip and wash thoroughly with soap. Wash the hell out of it so there is no grease on it (grease eats through the Plasti-Dip as it's drying) Dry off

6. Without sanding, you can now start applying plasti-dip (Black) (no sanding required). Start coating the chrome evenly until it is fully painted. Watch out for paintcan drips, as that will only make it take a lot longer to finish the project.

I applied about 5-6 coats on the strip, allowing for 10minutes in between coats.

7. Finished product shown below. To pop it back on, just press it in slowly from one side to the other.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/close-up-rear-strip-black.jpg)

You can also see in picture I painted the rear number plate cover too. This too was done using plasti-dip.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 June 2011, 06:41
Noooooooo, don't tell me you opted for Rotiforms, the 1st set of wheels are dope!?

Yep, have to wait a 4-5 weeks for them though, as they have to build them and do custom set-up for me, plus I want to drive to CA to get them and install. They will really finish off the car  :cool:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 07 June 2011, 07:33
Rear Tail lights now all red now. Will run them like this for the summer and then smoke them for winter and then change for next year!

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tinted-rear4.jpg)

Now onto spraying the front and rear badges from chrome to...... :evil: :evil: :evil: you will have to wait and see!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 17 June 2011, 04:59
Small update on Front & Rear Chrome Quattro Badge mods.

So I took the original Chrome Quattro Badge from the front grill and painted it to match the car theme of Black/Red. This was easy to do, first of all painted the whole badge black and then with fine brush filled in the Quattro letters with Red :)

Chrome Badge
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/original-front-badge-chrome.jpg)

Painted Black
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-badge-painted-black.jpg)

Painted Black and red with new clips as I broke them taking it off the grill  
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Black-red-badge-front.jpg)

and the end result on the car  :smiley:
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/after-with-red-black-badge.jpg)

Now onto painting the rear Badge below from Red and Chrome to Red and Black.  :smiley:

Custom Rear Badge 'S-Line' Sign!

So I took the original 'S-Line' Chrome Badge off the rear of the car, using fishing wire and then compounded off sticky part from paint.
Then taped up the badge and painted the Chrome parts to black  :smiley:

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/2-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/3.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/4-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/8a.jpg)

I am still doing research on Air-ride, will finalize my purchase in the next few weeks, which I can't wait  :cool: :cool:


Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 17 June 2011, 05:09
I come across this Audi picture and I so want an old skool Audi now and I just love this color.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/old-skool-audi.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 24 June 2011, 07:48
Someone asks me how I tinted my rear tail lights, so here is how  :smiley:

Audi A4 Avant - Red Tint your Taillights

NOTICE: Worth reading up what the law is on tinting lights in your country, before tinting!!

Today you have many options to tint lights on your car. I went with Spray can, but I did consider the Rvinyl Performance Film products, but the cost difference between Vinyl and cans was alot, I went the route of spray cans. Vinyl is good if you want to revert back to OEM later on.

Materials required: (if going spray can route!)

RED TINT:
- Transparent Candy Red Spray can, Krylon and Testors make them. I ordered 2x Testors 1605 spray cans
- a Clear Coat Enamel spray can I ordered 1 x Testor
- 1000 grit Sand Paper
- Spray mask (Health reasons!)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spray-cans.jpg)

1- Remove taillights from the vehicle - details of how to do that is below in images

Overview of Taillight set-up on Audi B6 Avant
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-avant-b6-taillight.jpg)

How to remove Audi B6 Avant taillights
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-avant-taillight-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-avant-taillight-2.jpg)

2 - Wash the taillight down with rubbing alcohol and a towel to remove any dirt or dust.

3- Wet Sand the whole taillight with Grit 1000

4- Wash and dry

5- Mask area you do not want to tint with tapes and newspapers (I painted all of my taillights RED, but some people just want to remove the amber signal only leaving reverse light not tinted. FYI: tinting reverse light can be illegal in some places in Europe and US)

6- You can now start to spray a VERY LIGHT coat of transparent candy red. Let dry for at least 20 minutes

7- Spray a 2nd light coat again and wait 20 minutes

8- Spray a 3rd if needed and wait 20 minutes

9- Now wet sand gently again with 1000 grit + wash and dry

10- After sanding, if the red is not uniform, spay the whole taillight with one light coat of candy red and re-sand, if red is uniform skip this step

11- You are now ready to spray one light coat of Clear Coat Enamel and wait 20 minutes

12- 2nd clear coat and 20 minutes

13- 3rd clear coat and 20 minutes

14- If like me you take off your taillight you can now re-install the taillight after 12-24hours min drying time from the last coat.

15- Test the lights to make sure that they show through and are bright enough for other cars to see at night.

TIP" For best results once on the car, use a Polisher or light compound like Meguias #2 or #83 to perfect the clear coat reflection

Now sit back and look how cool your car looks with your new tinted taillights.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tinted-rear4.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 November 2011, 01:29
Audi A4 B6 Avant - Removing the A4 in-dash cup holder and replacement

Well I broke my in-dash cup holder the other week and so here is the steps I took to replace it. Let me tell you right now, this wasn't a nice job to do and you can if not careful break dash parts as well as new in-dash cup holder, so be warned, take you time and be careful when doing these steps.

Materials required:

1 x in-dash cup holder unit (A4 B6 code: 8E1 862 534 J 5PR)
You can order this from Audi Direct, but I ordered from US Company - as it was doing sales on Audi A4 B6 Parts :) http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Interior/Dashboard/

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-cupholder-audi-a4-b6.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-cupholder-audi-a4-b6.jpg)

So here is my issue with my in-dash cup holder. The part inside that holds cup broke :(, I tried glue but it didn’t work, thus why replacing.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/0-cupholder-issue.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/0-cupholder-broken-part.jpg)

What it should look like (new item)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-cupholder-audi-a4-b6.jpg)

So here are the steps;

1. Remove  trim piece above the in-dash cup holder.
Do this by two barbed prongs that hold it in place. You need to put small screw driver or paint can opener to push them and trim piece will then pop off.
   
Bentley manual says to open the glove box to pull on it using tool #3370. This substitute "tool" wouldn't fit so I opened the beverage holder and carefully pulled from there until it was out far enough to pull from the top edge.
      
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-dash-remove.jpg)

2. Remove cup holder from dashboard.
You can use a pair of screwdrivers, to push down in the holes below (top circles in RED) to depress the tabs on the cup holder. Once you pull unit out you will see the tabs that hold cup in (bottom circles in RED)

This is part to be careful, advised to tape the dash for protection when prying, the unit out. Bentley manuals says to remove Radio first. I didn't remove the radio, which is why the bottom of cup holder got caught on the radio, so had to use flat screwdriver to push it over radio and same when you install.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-2-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-cup-remove.jpg)
   
3. Disconnect cable from in-dash cup holder
Cable is connected to the back of unit, using your fingernail, pop open the clip and the cable will then be able to be pulled out.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/5-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-cup-out.jpg)
   
This is showing closed cable clip on Left and then when you open it on right
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-cableout.jpg)
   
4.  Take the new in-dash cup holder and make sure it works properly (hopefully you did that before hand) and now connect up the cable to back of new in-dash cup holder.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/7-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-newunitinstall.jpg)
   
5. Now slide the new in-dash cup holder into the dash, in picture below you can see top clips that hold it in place.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/8-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-newunitinstall.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-2-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-install-top.jpg)
   
6. So just like when you un-installed the cup holder, you need to make sure the bottom clip clears the radio, do this by using screw driver, but here is a tip, put tap over screw driver to stop scratching top of radio.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-1-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-install-underneath.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-3-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-install-underneath2.jpg)
   
7. Last part is put the trim back on dashboard that goes above the in-dash cup holder.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-4-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-installed-unit-done.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-5-cupholder-audi-a4-b6-installed-complete.jpg)
   
Now enjoy your new cup holder :)

Next jobs:

1. Replace Air filter with K&N Air Filter
2. Restore of 18'' RS4 RIMS (White/Silver)
3. Air Ride install
4. Find new SATNAV unit.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 November 2011, 20:27
Air-Filter turned up this morning, will get that installed this week. As usual will do write up [:)]
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/K-NAir-filter-audi-b6-a4.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/K-NAir-filter-audi-b6-a4-1.jpg)

Waiting for weekend so can get tyres taken off wheels, so can start repairs and then get them powder coated white on inside parts and silver on the face. here is picture of wheels today, not alot of damage, but they don't look good.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/audi-18inch-rims-1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/audi-18inch-rims-2.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/audi-18inch-rims-3.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/audi-18inch-rims-4.jpg)

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 17 November 2011, 04:43
Powder coat paint ordered for wheels this morning, ETA 1 week - Porsche Silver & Pearlized white. This gives me time to clean up wheels this weekend and then following weekend powder coating time.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 05 December 2011, 03:14
Here are the details of how I jacked up my Audi A4 (b6) Avant and took all 4 wheels off, so they could be repainted.

Tools needed:
1. Jack
2. 4 x jack Stands
3. gloves
4. set of small screw drivers
5. Tape
6. Socket set - need 17" socket for Audi bolts
7. Ratchet

Picture of tools I used as listed above
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-tools-takewheelsoff.jpg)

Steps:
1. Make sure your Audi is parked on flat level surface, this is important as you don't want

the car to fall of jack stands.

WARNING: Do not reply on the transmission or parking brake to keep the car from rolling.

3. You need to make sure you understand where the jack and jack stands are first before you do anything, or else you will do damage to your Audi.

Here are two pictures of front and then rear on audi, showing areas to jack up the car and put jack stands. I will have more pictures of this later in steps.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/audi-jacking-points.jpg)

Front
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/12b-jackingpoint-front.jpg)

Rear
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-undercar-rear-jacking-point.jpg)


4. Before you go jacking up your Audi, its important to loosen lug bolts slightly, this makes it easier to undo bolts when the wheels are jacked up off the ground. Before you can loosen the bolts, you need to take off the center caps from wheels.

To do this without damaging the center caps or your wheel, take 2 x small screw driver and put tape on the end of screw drivers.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-tools-caps-off-wheels.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/5-tool-caps-off-wheels.jpg)

Using one of the screw drivers, place the screw driver in one of the circle holes on the edge of the center cap

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6-tool-in-cap-wheel.jpg)

You can now gently push down on the screw driver and the center cap should pop off. If you are still having issues getting center cap off, use the second screw you put tape on and put the screw driver inbetween the wheel and the center cap to help push the center cap out, as per picture below

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/7-tool-in-cap-wheel.jpg)

Here is the center cap off the wheel and showing with screw driver still in it

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/8-cap-off-wheel.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/8a-cap-off-wheel.jpg)

5. Now repeat Step 4 for each wheel

6. Now you can loosen the lug bolts slightly, this makes it easier to undo bolts when the wheels are jacked up off the ground. Do this by using 17" socket on racket and pushing down on racket (anti-clock wise) this will loosen the lug bolts. Repeat on each lug bolt per wheel (4 wheels with 5 lug bolts each)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/9-undo-wheels-bolts.jpg)

7. So you are now ready to jack up your Audi. I started with the rear.

8. Using the Step 3 information, I placed my jack under the rear trailing arm and start to jack up. I took my time to make sure I got the right spot and that the car would not slip off the jack. As you jack up the car, the whole rear will lift, so be careful.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/10-jackuprears-right.jpg)

9. I jacked the car up enough so I could get jack stands underneath both sides of the audi and place in jack stand point as outlined in Step 3. I then lowered the car slowly until it rested firmly on the jack stand and then removed the jack.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/11-jack-stands-installed.jpg)

10. Now ready to jack up the front of the car.

Using the Step 3 information, I placed my jack under the front reinformed floor pain inboard of front jacking point. (See picture below)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/13-jackupfrontofcar-undo-boltsonwheels.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/12b-jackingpoint-front.jpg)

I took my time to make sure I got the right spot and that the car would not slip off the jack.

As you jack up the car, the whole front will lift, so be careful, specailly as the rear of the car is on jack stands too.

I jacked up the car until I could get the jack stands under both sides

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/14-jackedupcar.jpg)

I then placed the jack stands in correct location as outlined in Step 3. I then lowered the car slowly until it rested firmly on the jack stand and then removed the jack.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/15-car-on-stands.jpg)

The car is now fully supported on jack stands.

11. Time to unbolt the lug bolts on each wheel. One wheel at a time, using 17" socket and racket, pushing down on racket and turning (anti-clock wise) until the lug bolt is properly unscrewed and you can take out by hand. Repeat this step on each lug bolt per wheel (4 wheels with 5 lug bolts each) On the last lug bolt for each wheel, support the wheel so you don't damage last lug bolt. Take off each wheel and place on ground facing up.

If the wheel won't come off, a slight kick to the tires will help.

You now should have all wheels off you audi :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/16-taken-wheels-off.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/18-rims-off-car.jpg)

12. I have spacers on my audi (10mm) and these where all stuck to the wheel, so if you have this happen to you, all you need to do is using a hammer, tap the side of the spacers all the way around and they will pop off.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/16-rims-off-spacers.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/17-spacers-off.jpg)

Next job is to clean the rims.

Tools and materials used
1. Sponge
2. brush
3. Wheel cleaner (I used Meguiars)
4. Bucket with warm water and car wash
5. Not required, but makes life easier - Water pressure/power washer

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-clean-wheels.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/5-tool-clean-wheels.jpg)

Steps:

1. Using water pressure washer, rinsed off wheels.
2. Then sprayed the wheel cleaner all over wheels front and rear
3. Let the wheel cleaner do its thing for minute and then using the brush, brush the wheel making sure the wheel cleaner gets into any part of the wheel. This will help remove any dirt or brake dust from the wheels. I did repeated step 15 & this step 16 twice, so to make sure the whole wheel was covered.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-washing-wheels.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-wash-back-wheels.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-wash-wheelsagain.jpg)

4. Using the pressure/power washer, I then rinsed off the wheels front and rear

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6-wash-wheels-pressure-tool.jpg)

5. Then let the wheels dry off

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/7-wheels-cleaned-ready.jpg)

I will provide update on center caps tomorrow, on what I did before I provided the wheels to my friend who is doing a custom powder coat paint job for me.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 05 December 2011, 03:21
..
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 December 2011, 04:25
So before I took my wheels to my friends for painting, I had to take the tires off the wheels. I wanted to make sure I understood the complete condition of the wheels, so a quick pop down the local tire store and deal done, to remove tires from wheels and bring back later to put back on and balance up. Tires now off the wheels, as you can see from the below pictures.

In short the wheels are straight and no damage other than the surface paint and edge of the wheels, which I knew:)

Wheels in FX35, going off to my mates.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1234wheels-going-to-painters.jpg)

Tires in the garage. I will be ordering two new tires, as one as screw in it and the other is worn on inside, so will need to get tracking done as well.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1234tires-off-wheels.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 December 2011, 04:26
Taking the Audi 9 Spoke RS4 wheels, center caps audi logo sign off, in preperation for repaint.

Tools required
1. Flat headed screw driver
2. Small hammer
3. small cardboard box

Steps
1. This is a straight forward job. Make sure you have a clean surface area to work on and inspect the center caps to make sure they are all the same spec with all parts on them.

Here is picture of the center caps on face front and the rears

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/1-center-caps.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/2-back-center-caps.jpg)

2. On the back of the center caps there are four silver tabs - you can see two of them in the below picture circled in black.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/3-center-caps-tabsonrear.jpg)

3. With flat head screw driver, you need to push down on these tabs.
Using a small hammer and not hitting the screw driver hard, you gently tap each of the 4 tabs and then repeat again and the tabs will disappear as per pictures below

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/4-center-caps-tabs-.jpg)

4. Now you can turn over the center cap and you should see the audi logo like the below picture

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/6-center-cap-front-audi-sign.jpg)

5. You can now pull the audi logo sign off with your hands, still be gentle as you still might break the audi logo. Your center cap and logo will now look as below picture.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/7-center-cap-sign-removed.jpg)

6. You now need to repeat steps 2 through to 5 for each of your center caps (should be 4, unless you have a nice custom Audi with more wheels!!!)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi/8-center-cap-sign-removed.jpg)

So I am now ready to provide my wheels and new center caps to my painter to repaint them :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 09 January 2012, 00:50
Wheels painted and finished. Had to do them twice due to first matt silver finish didn't look good and little accident with one of the wheels!! Will update more with wheels on the car later this week.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-wheels.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 31 January 2012, 05:59
Little test of wheels on Audi

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-wheels-painted.jpg)

Sadly in day light I still don't like the Silver finish and so off they went again to be painters, in the mean while I went and order myself some new wheels - 19 x 8.5, new tires, spacers, lug bolts, lug locks and a 996 cabriolet beetle  :evil: my new toy for the summer, just got this week  :smiley:, too damn expensive to mod, but will be cleaning it alot.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/porsche-996-2.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 February 2012, 04:16
New parts arrived today  :cool:

Lets see if you can figure out what wheels I got?

Open the box!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheel-2.jpg)

Look inside, any idea yet?
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheel-3.jpg)

Maybe this picture gives you an idea?
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-centers.jpg)

and here you go :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheel-4.jpg)

and here are other parts to make the wheels fit properly on the audi. (you will see new center caps for my RS4 wheels, as my others where not in good shape)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-parts.jpg)

I will getting tires put on them tomorrow and then on the car this weekend, then I need to figure out which car shall I drive?!  :grin:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 13 February 2012, 00:34
Wheels on the car :)

You will also notice I have changed back to standard rear lights too. The all red was fun but not the long term look I want.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-wheels-2-10-2012.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-13.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-14.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-20.jpg)

Next step is Air ride installation :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 February 2012, 04:23
was meant to add this yesterday but forgot!

Audi S-line Badges to match the rest of the badges I have on the car

You can buy these online, just do search via http://www.bing.com (http://www.bing.com) for 'Black S-line door Badges'

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-sline-badges.jpg)

TIP: The badges should be 50mm from the tip of the rear door moulding to the badge.

Before
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-sline-badges-1.jpg)

After
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-sline-badges-2.jpg)

Other badges on the car

front Badge
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/after-with-red-black-badge.jpg)

Rear Badge
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/8a.jpg)

and on Steering wheel (but I am searching for black/red badge for this too)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/steeringwheel-sline.jpg)

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 21 February 2012, 05:19
Before I put my wheels on the Audi, I wanted to make sure I protected the wheels. This will help protecting your wheels from brake dust, road dirt and general crap and make life easier for cleaning wheels

Tools required:
1. Microfiber clothes
2. Bucket, water and car wash shampoo and sponge
3. Wolf's Chemical Nano Rim sealant

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-cleaning001.jpg)

Step 1.
Clean the wheels and tires, to make sure there isn't any dirty  or brake dust, using car shampoo into water in bucket, using a clean sponge, wash the wheels thoroughly and dry them off.

Step 2.
Using microfiber cloth, put some of the Nano Rim sealant on cloth or if you have a spray bottle, start to apply rim shield to one of the wheels. You can do this what ever way you like, just make sure you put sealant on all the surface of the rim and also on the inside of the rim too, this will make life easier to clean. I applied a lot of the sealant to my rims to make sure everything was covered.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-cleaning-02.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-cleaning-05.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-cleaning-04.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/wheels-cleaning-03.jpg)

Step 3.
After 10minutes, using a new damp microfiber cloth, go over gently the wheel and let dry for about 10-15minutes.

Step 4.
Repeat step 1 and step 2 until you have completed each wheel.

Now my wheels are protected. Apply this wheel shield will last depending on usage of your car, I usually see 1-3 months this will last. I clean my rims each week and will be doing these steps each month, just because I like the clean look :)

You can read up more about Nano Rim Sealant on their website. NOTE: There are many rim/wheel sealant products out their, but this is the one I have found works best for me.


Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 21 February 2012, 05:38
more goodies turned up today

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/parcel-spacers-6mm.jpg)

6mm spacers going behind the rear wheels.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/6mm-spacer.jpg)

Also got new carbon fiber BBS Center caps , as Red ones I think are a little too much. Here you can see both types I have.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/BBS-centers-cf-red.jpg)

I will be doing the spacers and center caps over the coming week, so will update then with difference.

Air Ride ordered on Saturday, now waiting for that to turn up  :smiley:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 February 2012, 04:36
Had time yesterday to put the 6mm spacers on the rear of the Audi, as the rear wheels were just a little too far inwards compared to the fronts.

Here is what I did to check and confirm size of the spacers I needed. (I am sure people have various different methods of doing this, but this worked for me  :smiley: :laugh:)

1. Using a piece of wood and 90 degree level/measure, I checked the rear and front clearance against the tires (if you have stretched tires, you would check against the edge of the wheels/rims)

Tools used;

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-4.jpg)

You can see here on the rear wheel, (using wood against tire to the arch), there is room to push the wheel/rim out :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-5.jpg)

You can see here on the front wheel, (using wood against tire to the arch), there is no room to push the wheel/rim out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacer-5a.jpg)

I now using the 90 degree level/measure, I measured to see what required spacers I needed. As this level/measure didn't have mm on it, I marked it and then used a smaller measure to confirm that the spacer was 6mm, thus I ordered 6mm spacers from ECS Tuning.

So with parts arriving last week, time to get on with the install :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-2.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-3.jpg)

I Jacked up the whole rear of the Audi (loosing bolts first while wheels on ground) and then once wheels off ground unbolted lug bolts and security bolt and took wheels off.

Installed the 6mm spacers

Left side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-9-left-side.jpg)

Right side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-9-right-side.jpg)

Then installed the wheels again and here is results;

Checked with 90 degree level/measure and now the rears wheels are same stance as the front's :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacer-6-6mm.jpg)

Before
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-8-before.jpg)

After
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/spacers-12-after.jpg)

I then cleaned the Audi inside and out :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-b6-outside-2.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-b6-outside.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/interior-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/interior-3.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/engine-bay2.jpg)

I did put one of the new BBS C/F centers on one of the wheels, but I didn't like the way it sat, so will be ordering different ones.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-black-centers-1.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 03 March 2012, 03:59
Another present turned up today [cool]

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-centers-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-centers-2.jpg)

Yes my new BBS Centers caps - code ID: 0924494

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bbs-center-3.jpg)

I will switch them out tomorrow and will now be happy with wheels on the car...... for the moment!! Time to sell the other two sets of BBS Center caps.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 04 March 2012, 00:38
ok put the new BBS Center caps on the car, much better :)

Center caps (third time lucky!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/BBS-CENTER-CAPS.jpg)

Red BBS Center caps on the car
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/BBS-CENTER-READ.jpg)

New Black BBS Center caps on the car
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/BBS-CENTER-CAP-BLACK.jpg)

and shot of the car with new BLACK BBS center caps

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-bbs-black-lm.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/AUDi-BBS-CENTER-BLACK.jpg)

Now I'm waiting for Air ride to be delivered and we can slam this audi [wrench] [:D]

I'm in too minds to black out the Audi Signs on the front/rear of the car, will try out photoshoot first to see if I like or not!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 05 March 2012, 01:10
While cleaning the car today, I noticed I have the Audi Headlight o-ring issue starting to appear :(

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-front-left-headlight-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-front-right-headlight-2.jpg)

I did a search and found some information on how to replace this, but there isn't a fully documented end to end process of removing headlights, doing fix and then replacing. So I will be doing a full write up when I do this job over the next week.

Due to I will have the headlights out, I will also remove the amber inserts which I have wanted to do for a while.

So I pop down local hardware store and picked up No.6 o-rings, so I have everything now to do the fix :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/number-six-o-ring-headlight.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/o-ring-no6-headlight-fix.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 06 March 2012, 19:58
So had time over the last few days to figure out what I wanted to do regards my Stereo in the Audi. I used to have a RNS-E but it broke so I put Symphony II back in the car. To be honest I never used the full functions of RNS-E SATNAV, so really didn't want to buy another one, but I do want to play my music on my ipod/iphone and listen to my british radio stations via iphone. So I figured I would look up adapters and I came across Blitzsafe Audi M-Link V1.B which a few Audi owners in US have installed and seem to like and it covers everything I want, so I ordered one from http://enfigcarstereo.com you can find these in UK via www :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/BLITZSAFE_AUDI_MLINK1_V1B.jpg)

Plan is to install this after I complete my headlight work. I will install it and run the cable under the center console and have it come out in the arm rest holder. Of course I will document it as usual.

Useful links to help you figure out what adapter best suits your needs/car;
http://enfigcarstereo.com/blog/2011/...uetooth-guide
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 12 March 2012, 23:54
Well I managed to complete my headlights, o-ring and take amber inserts out this weekend just gone and I am really pleased with the results. Here is summary of what I did with few pictures.

I will publish up each step with in-depth step by step details over the week, as I went a bit OCD on pictures and need to write up each step to make it easy for everyone to use in future.

1. Un-install the Headlights (right/left)
2. Replaced o-rings in headlights, stop the housing condensation
3. Removed the Headlight amber inserts, without drilling anything, so can use amber inserts again in future if you require
4. Paint front side indicator lights for a stealth look
5. Re-install of headlights (right/left)

Before
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/before-right.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/before-left.jpg)

During
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/where-are-my-lights1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/hand-in-light.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/mods-complete.jpg)

After
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/mod-complete-3.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/mod-complete-2.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/mod-complete-1.jpg)

Still waiting on my ipod/iphone adapter to arrive, fingers crossed for tomorrow....!!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 17 March 2012, 09:52
As promised

Step 1 Removing Headlights from Audi B6 (Bi-Xenon's)
NOTE: The following is a detailed procedure on how I removed my Headlight assembly's from my Audi B6, so I could complete three jobs (complete O-ring fix stop condensation, remove amber inserts and stealth side indicator Blubs), I am sure others will find ways to do this or improve on it, but this is what worked well for me :)

Tools needed;

   - Torque wrench, extension bar and  T30 1/4"Torx socket
   - Torque wrench, extension bar and 10mm socket
   - Phillips screwdriver
   - Flat head screwdrivers
   - Tape

Picture shows all the tools outlined above for this procedure, but also for completing O-ring fix, removing amber inserts)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tools-used.jpg)

Preparing car, before starting work

I recommend starting by first parking the car on a level surface in front of a wall or garage door and noting the position of the beam pattern on the wall. This will make it easier to realign the lights later once everything is completed.

Removing head light left side

Here is pictures of headlight before any work.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-1.jpg)

Step 1. First job is to remove the left engine cover as pictured below, this is held in place by two rubber screws, at the front and to the right, you just need to gently pull cover up and out towards the front of the vehicle.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-3.jpg)

Below picture shows engine cover removed.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-4.jpg)

Step 2. Below picture is close up of all the bolts and cables, we need to work on over the next few steps. I have outlined each one, so you understand

No.1 & 2 Bolts = hex bolts (these will be completely removed)
No.3 & 4 bolts = hex bolts (these only need to be loosen, 2-3 turns, not completely removed)
No.5 & 6 bolts = 10mm bolts (these will be completely removed) so that you can get to No. 4 bolt.
Three cables that require disconnecting/removing from clip holders
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-5-items-to-work.jpg)

Step 3. Need to disconnect two cables that are connected to headlight and in way of getting to No.4 Bolt.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-5-remove-cables1and2.jpg)

You can remove cable connected on top of the headlamp, by pushing down gently on the clip holding cable in place, as outlined in picture below. Then slide the cable out towards the engine .
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-6-remove-cable-no1.jpg)

Second cable is held in place by plastic clip, you need to gently pill clip apart and pull cable out upwards, this cable doesn't require to be disconnected, but by removing from clip, can move cable out of the way to get to No.4 Bolt, which you will see in next few steps.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-7-remove-cable-no2.jpg)

Step 4. Removing Bolts 5 & 6 using 10mm socket, with torque wrench, do can allow you to get to No.4 bolt. Outlined the bolts in the below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-7-undo-bolts-get-toNo-4bolt.jpg)

Undo the 10mm bolts. This bolt (No.5) on my car is used not only to hold this break fluid bottle, but also to hold the engine cover in place)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-8-undo-bolts.jpg)

Both No.5 & No.6 10mm Bolts removed, which allows you to move the unit over a little, so you can see and access No.4
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-9-bolts-out.jpg)

Now see and access No.4 :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-10-see-no4-bolt-now.jpg)

Step 5. Remove headlamp bolts. To make sure you can align the headlamp back in the same position, I used tape to make up where the top bolts are tightened up.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-11-mark-up-bolts1and2.jpg)

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4 Torx socket), to unscrew No.1 & 2 Bolts = hex bolts (these will be completely removed)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-12-use-t30-socket.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-13no2bolt.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-14-no1bolt.jpg)

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4Torx socket, to unscrew No.3 & 4 bolts = hex bolts (these only need to be loosen, 2-3 turns, not completely removed)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-15-no3bolt.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-16-no4bolt.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-16a-no4-bolt.jpg)

Now that you have removed No.1 & 2 bolts and loosened No.3 & 4 bolts, you can now pull headlamp slightly out, reason for not pulling headlamp out completely, is you need to disconnect last 3rd cable from headlamp.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-17a-pull-lightout.jpg)

Step 6. remove final 3rd cable connected to the back of the headlamp as outlined in the below picture.  Now you have headlamp slightly pulled out, you can now see the final cable (3rd Cable) to disconnect.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-17-third-cable.jpg)

Using flat head screwdriver, gently, push down on clip on cable, so you can then pull cable off its clip.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-18-third-cableclip.jpg)

Cable now disconnected :), can now remove headlamp completely.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-19-third-cableout.jpg)

Step 7. Remove headlamp completely, by pulling headlight unit out. Take care not to scratch your bumper paintwork. To prevent any scratching you can either put cloth or tape on bumper before pulling head unit out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-21-out.jpg)

Now have Left head light  unit successfully removed from Audi.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/left-light-22-unit.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 17 March 2012, 09:53
Removing headlight right side

Here is pictures of headlight before any work.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-1.jpg)

You will see on the right hand side of the engine bay, that the Air Duct is in the way of getting  to all headlight bolts, so need to remove this first.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-3.jpg)

To make sure you can align the headlamp back in the same position, I used tape to make up where the top bolts are tightened up.

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4Torx socket, to unscrew No.1 & 2 bolts = hex bolts (in few steps later we will completely remove these bolts)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl4.jpg)


Now to remove Air Duct, there are two screws that you will need to unscrew, I used a Philips screwdriver socket in mini wrench, but you can use normal screwdriver. Unscrew these and remove completely.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-5.jpg)

Now the screws are removed, we can remove Air duct.
Do this by pushing air duct so the middle part compresses together, allowing you to remove air duct from front panel. The air duct is in three parts, which you can pull apart if need be to make taking out easier. I found that once the front duct was out from front panel, I could pull the whole unit out as seen in below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-6.jpg)

Below picture is close up of all the bolts, we need to work on over the next few steps. I have outlined each one, so you understand

No.1 & 2 Bolts = hex bolts (these will be completely removed)
No.3 & 4 bolts = hex bolts (these only need to be loosen, 2-3 turns, not completely removed)
There will be two cables that will require disconnecting too on the back of the headlight unit.

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4Torx socket, go ahead and unscrew No.1 & 2 bolts and completely remove.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-7.jpg)

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4Torx socket, to unscrew No.3 = hex bolts (this only need to be loosen, 2-3 turns, not completely removed)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-8.jpg)

Now using torque wrench with T30 1/4Torx socket, to unscrew No.4 = hex bolts (this only need to be loosen, 2-3 turns, not completely removed)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-9.jpg)

Now that you have removed No.1 & 2 bolts and loosened No.3 & 4 bolts, you can now pull headlamp slightly out, reason for not pulling headlamp out completely, is you need to disconnect 2 cables from headlamp
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-11.jpg)

Now remove cable connected to the back of the headlamp via clip as outlined in the below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-10.jpg)

Remove final cable connected to the back of the headlamp as outlined in the below picture.  Using flat head screwdriver, gently, push down on clip , so you can then pull cable out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-12.jpg)

Last cable is now disconnected, you can pull headlight unit out completely.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-13.jpg)

Remove headlamp completely by pulling headlight unit out. Take care not to scratch your bumper paintwork. To prevent any scratching you can either put cloth or tape on bumper before pulling head unit out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-14.jpg)

Now have right headlight  unit successfully removed from Audi.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-right-hdl-15.jpg)

Here is the front of my Audi without the headlights
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/where-are-my-lights1.jpg)

Now that you have both headlights removed from your Audi, can move onto doing the required repair work to the units.

I will post up next procedure in next few days; 
2. Replaced O-rings in headlights, stop the housing condensation

And the others next week;
3. Removed the Headlight amber inserts, without drilling anything, so can use amber inserts again in future if you require
4. Paint front side indicator lights for a stealth look
5. Re-install of headlights (right/left)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: jamie1989 on 17 March 2012, 11:12
Fair play mate you have some sweet write ups.
Not once have I seen you cut any corners  :cool:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 19 March 2012, 05:08
thanks alot Jamie1989 :)

Step 2 Replaced O-rings in headlights, stop the housing condensation Audi B6 (Bi-Xenon's)

NOTE: The following is a detailed procedure on how I replaced O-rings in my Headlight assembly's from my Audi B6, I am sure others will find ways to do this or improve on it, but this is what worked well for me :)

Tools needed;

   - Torque wrench, extension bar and  T20 5/32" Torx socket or Torx 5/32'' Screwdriver
   - Phillips screwdriver
   - Flat head screwdrivers
   - 1/2'' Brush (any will do)
   - Hoover / Vacuum

Parts require to buy
   - #6 O-rings 7/16'' O.D x 5/16" I.D. x 1/16" (10 O-rings Enclosed) #96723
   - White Lithium Grease
   - Black Silicone Instant Gasket
   - Tape (Green Frog Tape 1-1/2 in. x 180 ft. Multi-Surface Tape
   - Fiber cloths
   - Electrical black tape

Picture shows parts I ordered to complete O-ring fix.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/number-six-o-ring-headlight.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/o-ring-no6-headlight-fix.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-0.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/black-silicone-sealant.jpg)

Step 1. You will need to un-install the Headlight units from you vehicle to complete this work. Refer to my previous instructions of how to complete un-install of headlight units.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-1.jpg)

Step 2. Now you have headlight unit off you vehicle, working on flat surface, bench or table, place fiber cloth or paper on bench or table, so not to scratch the headlight unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-2.jpg)

Step 3. Above the turn signal bulb on each headlight unit, there is a little adjust screw with a black cap.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-6.jpg)

Step 4. Using Torx 5/32'' screwdriver, or Torque wrench, extension bar with 5/32" Torx socket, unscrew the screw completely and take off the cap.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-8.jpg)

You can see there is a lot of dirt :(, which you will need to clean (go over that in next step)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-9.jpg)

Black cap taken off (below) and looking at the inside of it which was clean. If there is any dirt, clean that off, using cloth, small hoover or brush
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-10.jpg)

Step 5. Need to clean and remove the dirt, so when you remove the plastic rod, no dirt will fall into the headlight unit. I used a small brush first, to remove as much as possible and then used vacuum to suck up anything else left, which resulted in clean area as pictures shows below.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-11.jpg)

Step 6. Using flathead screwdriver, gently pry underneath the edge of the plastic rod top, as shown in the below picture and gently pry up. You need to be careful not to turn the rod, as this will adjust your headlight position, which you don't want to do. Once you have it raised up about 10mm you can then with you fingers grab the rod and completely remove.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-12.jpg)

Once Rod is removed, you can see more dirt on the edge, again clean this out. I did this by using vacuum and wet cloth to pick up as much of the dirt. Be careful not to drop any dirt inside the headlight unit.  If you, it just means you will have to take back of the unit panel off and take out the main light internals to clean up dirt. (I will exlain how to do that step as part of my next procedure for removal of Amber insert)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-14.jpg)

Step 7. Now you have the headlight unit rod out, you can see the current O-ring outlined below, to the right just underneath the top. I had a lot of dirt around my O-ring :(
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-13.jpg)

Clean the plastic rod, so all the dirt is removed.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-15.jpg)

Step 8. Now remove the current O-ring from plastic rod. Do this by using flat head screwdriver, pry screwdriver under the O-ring and push over the lip. Once out of the groove, using fingers to pull the O-ring off the plastic rod completely.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-16.jpg)

You can now compare the original O-ring with new O-ring. The original O-ring is not in good shape.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-17.jpg)

Step 9. Give the Plastic rod another clean and make sure there is not dirt in the groove that the new O-ring will be placed.
Using the new O-ring, place over rod and drop into the groove.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-18.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 19 March 2012, 05:09
Step 10. Now to prevent and keep out water better than just installing new O-ring, using Lithium Grease, add this around and above the new O-ring  as shown below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-19.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-20.jpg)

Step 11. Time to re-install the Plastic rod into the Headlight unit, using your fingers, slowly drop into the headlight unit, make sure you carefully don't turn the rod, when down rod is at 90% inside headlight unit, as this may adjust the headlight position.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-21.jpg)

To get the plastic rod into its final position, you will need to press down on the top of the rod, as shown below, again gently do this until it is completely in the groove.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-22.jpg)

Step 12. Now place the cap back on the headlight unit, this should drop in easily.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-23.jpg)

Step 13. Now place the screw back and using Torx 5/32'' screwdriver or Torque wrench, extension bar with T20 5/32" Torx socket , tighten up the screw.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-24.jpg)

Step 14. You have successfully replaced you headlight 0-ring on your Audi Headlight. If you still have condensation in your headlight unit, this is the time to take out the side indicator light, by turning plastic cover to open position (will see open & close words on unit - see picture below) 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-25.jpg)

Now remove the side indicator blub and place to the side.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-26.jpg)

Step 15. You now have a nice hole to use ("borrow") your Mrs/GF hairdryer... Blast some hot air in the headlight unit for about 5-10 minutes to get it nice and dry or until all condensation disappears.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-27.jpg)

You now need to repeat these steps on your other headlight unit.

This completes the O-ring fix procedure, so well done :)

Additional steps

To make sure you don't get any further housing condensation and a few people on Audi Forums (AZ) have learnt this the hard way too, that the O-ring replacement does not, in all cases fix the condensation issue. You need to complete the following steps, this is what I did; (I will add more pictures of this part shortly, as some of the pictures I took where unfocused and not clear)

1. I checked the front of the headlight first, to make sure there was no gaps or cracks in the rubber holding the Glass front to the plastic back part of the unit, I found none. If you do, add black silicone to the edge (As I didn't have this issue, I have no pictures to show)

2. Add electrical tape over the top of the O-ring rod, cover, this will prevent dirt or any water entering from top.
(I will add picture here in next few days, this picture was out of focus)

3. On the back of the headlight unit, there is metal cover with 6 Tex screws, that allows air and water in if seals isn't perfect. Unscrew 6 Tex screws using Torx 5/32'' screwdriver, or Torque wrench, extension bar with T20 5/32" Torx socket and add Black Silicone to the edge of the metal cover, sealing the unit properly.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-1a.jpg)
   
   
4. There is an additional large back piece that you can disconnect on the back of the headlight unit. This is held in place with two Tex screws on Left and right and at the bottom with a metal clip as outlined in picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-1b.jpg)
   
Unscrew the screws and pull the clip down, you can pop off the plastic cover, (note there will be cables connecting to plastic cover, so be careful not to pull on those)
You will need to add Black Silicone to the edge of the plastic cover edge, so that when put back on it seals it to the headlight unit.
   
Put a thin line of black silicone on the edge of the lip, as highlighted below where red dots are and then put the cover back on and tighten up two screws and pull the metal clip up, to properly lock in place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-5.jpg)
   
Unit is now all sealed and secure :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-6.jpg)
   
5. Now you have completed steps 1 to 4 let the silicone set for 15-20 minutes. You now need to test if the unit is sealed properly. Best to do this part outside. You need to pour water over the top of the headlight unit everywhere. I used my hose pipe to have a continual supply of water and with-in a few minutes you will see if condensation returns inside the headlight unit or not.
   
I found no condensation even after 30 minutes and I left the headlight units outside in the cold too.
   
Time to re-install your headlights back on your vehicle.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 19 March 2012, 05:09
My AudiIPod MLINK1 V1.B turned up at last :), I will be installing it in the next few days.
 
I will also get to finishing these write ups this week too :)
 
3. Removed the Headlight amber inserts, without drilling anything, so can use amber inserts again in future if you require
 4. Paint front side indicator lights for a stealth look
 5. Re-install of headlights (right/left)
 
parts for the air ride are starting to turn up too, very excited about getting this done ready for summer.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 March 2012, 05:35
Step 3. Removed the Headlight amber inserts, without drilling anything, so can use amber inserts again in future if you require. 
NOTE: The following is a detailed procedure on how I removed the my Headlight amber inserts from my Audi B6, complete stealth blub look and optional seal up headlight with Black Silicone. I am sure others will find ways to do this or improve on it, but this is what worked well for me :) Hopefully you will find this useful.
 
Tools needed; 
   · Torque wrench, extension bar and  T20 5/32" Torx socket or Torx 5/32'' Screwdriver
   · Flat head screwdrivers
   · Hoover / Vacuum
   · Fiber cloth
 
Picture shows all the tools required to take un-install headlights, complete O-ring fix, as well as removing amber inserts.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tools-used.jpg)
 
B]Step 1[/B] You will need to un-install the Headlight units from you vehicle to complete this work. Refer to my previous instructions of how to complete un-install of headlight units.
 
Step 2. Now you have headlight unit off you vehicle, working on flat surface, bench or table, place fiber cloth or paper on bench or table, so not to scratch headlight unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-o-ring-fix-2.jpg)
 
Here is useful diagram of two different Audi headlight units, to help you understand each part. Mine are the Bi-Xenon (HID)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-headlights-components.jpg)
 
Step 3. There is the main back housing cover  can disconnect on the back of the headlight unit, that is held in place with two Tex screws on Left and right and at the bottom a metal clip as outlined in picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-1b.jpg)
 
You need to using torque wrench, extension bar and  T20 5/32" Torx socket or Torx 5/32'' Screwdriver
unscrew the screws and with your finger push down the clip at the bottom.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-13.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-14.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-15.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-16.jpg)
 
Now pull out the bottom of the housing cover first as this is held in place by two slots at the top, you should be able to easily pull the housing cover off, as outlined below in pictures. NOTE: there will be cables connecting to housing cover, so be careful not to pull on those.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-17.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-18.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-19.jpg)
 
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 March 2012, 05:37
Step 4. Now you have housing cover off (placed to one side), you can see inside of the headlight unit. Time to disconnect cables and get the main head light blub and lens out, so you can get inside the headlight unit to remove that amber insert :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/light-mods-explained.png)
 
There are 3 cables that you need to disconnect and then 4 Torx screws, which will then allow you to remove the mai head light blub and lens as one unit.
 
Disconnecting the cables
 
No.1 Cable
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-110.jpg)
 
Now gently remove the green/yellow cables from the clips at the bottom, so you can place the cable over to the left out of the way.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-111.jpg)
 
No.2 Cable - pull main headlight lens blub cable down and then out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-112.jpg)
 
You will see that this cable too is held in place via clips at the bottom, gently remove cable and again place cable to the left out of the way.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-113.jpg)
 
No.3 Cable - pull cable gently out and place down at the bottom of unit. Removing this allows you to move cable when pulling out the main blub and lens as one unit. (its very tight space)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-114.jpg)
 
STEP 5. Now onto removing the 4 Torx screws holding the main blub and lens in place.
using torque wrench, extension bar and  T20 5/32" Torx socket or Torx 5/32'' Screwdriver
unscrew the screws
 
No.1 Screw, undo and remove
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-115.jpg)
 
No.2 Screw, undo and remove
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-118.jpg)
 
No.3 Screw, undo and remove
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-116.jpg)
 
No.4 Screw, undo and remove
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-117.jpg)
 
You are now ready to remove the main blub and lens as one unit
 
Using your fingers, hold the blub/Lens as outlined in below picture and slowly pull out.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-119.jpg)
 
When you the lens at the point in the below picture you need to tilt the lens to get out. Now be really careful at this point as the lens can get scratched and you don't want that. Take you time.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-120.jpg)
 
The main blub/Lens is out :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-121.jpg)
 
What the main blub/lens looks like.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-120a.jpg)
 
And how the headlight units from the front
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-122.jpg)
 
STEP 6. Time to dry out the headlight unit if required.
 
Turn the side light rear handle to open position (you will see close and open on the back of the headlight unit) and then remove the side light unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-123.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-168.jpg)
 
You now have two areas to use ("borrow") your Mrs/GF hairdryer... Blast some hot air in the headlight unit for about 5-10 minutes to get it nice and dry or until all condensation disappears.
 
First area, through side indicator hole.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-124.jpg)
 
Second area - through main headlight blub/lens hole
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-126.jpg)
 
Look my new custom headlight with built-in hair dryer!!!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-127.jpg)
 
Back to serious work on headlights…….!
 
STEP 7. Time to remove the amber inserts without drilling or damaging the headlight units, so you can if you want reuse the amber inserts in the future.
 
Using a small flat head screwdriver for this part, you need to put tape on the end of the screwdriver, to make sure you don't scratch anything inside the headlight unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-128.jpg)
 
Now with screwdriver in your hand, put you hand through where the main bulb/lens was (make sure you don't scratch anything) . Work the flathead screwdriver gently prying underneath the amber insert as outlined in the below picture. The amber insert is held in by a tiny tab at the bottom and at the top.  Gently keep working it and eventually it will pop out and you can shimmy it out with the screwdriver. Again, take your time and be careful not to scratch up the inside.
 
NOTE: You can if you like unscrew the silver light ring, to make it easier to get inside the headlight unit, but I found I didn't need too.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-129.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-130.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-131.jpg)
 
Now you have the bottom part of the insert out of the tab, you will find it hard to get the top out by only pulling on the bottom area. This is when you now remove you hand and screwdriver and put the screwdriver through the side indicator hole at the back of the headlight unit as below picture. You can then push on the back of the amber insert which will then pop out the top tab. You now have the insert free. You can guide the amber insert down to the bottom of the unit.  Now you can put your hand back in through the main blub/lens area and using your fingers pick up the amber insert and remove it from the headlight unit back through the main blub/lens hole.
 
Following pictures show above actions
 
Screwdriver pushing on back of amber insert from side indicator hole
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-132.jpg)
 
Amber insert free now, gently moving to the bottom of the headlight unit, so can remove
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-135.jpg)
 
hand back in through the main blub/lens area and with your fingers pick up insert and remove.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-136.jpg)
 
Pulling amber insert out through main blub/lens hole.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-137.jpg)
 
And the headlight unit without amber insert - looking good :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-139.jpg)
 
And the amber insert on the table after removed from headlight unit :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-138.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 March 2012, 05:38
STEP 8.[/B} Time to re-install the Main Blub/Lens and reconnect up cables.
 
Taking the main blub/lens unit in your fingers, you need to put the unit in tilting at the top downwards, until you can get the lens large edges into the headlight unit as seen below.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-140.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-141.jpg)
 
Now you need to make sure the cables don’t get  in your way, gently move cables out of the way, mainly on the right hand side as outlined in below pictures.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-142.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-143.jpg)
 
Now you should have the main blub/lens back inside the headlight unit, ready to screw in the 4 screws holding it in place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-144.jpg)
 
Using torque wrench, extension bar and  T20 5/32" Torx socket or Torx 5/32'' Screwdriver unscrew the screws
 
No.1 Screw, install
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-145.jpg)
 
No.2 Screw install
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-146.jpg)
 
No.3 Screw install
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-147.jpg)
 
No.4 Screw install
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-148.jpg)
 
You can see all screws tightened up, now onto reconnecting the cables
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-150.jpg)
 
Cable no.3 Reconnect
Push cable back into the pins
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-151.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-152.jpg)
 
Cable No.2 Reconnect
This is the main Blub/lens cable, this will need to be placed underneath the main blub unit and pushed up as shown in pictures below;
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-153.jpg)
 
Make sure you secure the no.2 cable into the clips at the bottom of the headlight unit as outlined in below picture
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-154.jpg)
 
You now have cable connected and secure.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-155.jpg)
 
And final No.3 cable Reconnect
Cable just connects over pins next to the main headlight bulb/lens unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-156.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-157.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-158.jpg)
 
You need to make sure the last cables yellow/green cables are secure in the bottom clips as outlined in below picture, which also shows the No.2 Cable secure as well.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-159.jpg)
 
You are now ready to put the housing cover back on the headlight unit and re-install screws to finish the job, but before you go that, there is one more step to do :)
 
STEP 10. Last step, Sealing up the headlight unit, additional steps to prevent condensation.

Parts required
   · Black Silicone
   · Usage of hose pipe connected to water supply
   · Fiber cloth
 
To make sure you don't get any further housing condensation and a few people on Audi Forums (AZ) have learnt this the hard way too, that the O-ring replacement does not, in all cases fix the condensation issue. You need to complete the following steps, this is what I did; (I will add more pictures of this part shortly, as some of the pictures I took where unfocused and not clear)
 
1. I checked the front of the headlight first, to make sure there was no gaps or cracks in the rubber holding the Glass front to the plastic back part of the unit, I found none. If you do, add black silicone to the edge (As I didn't have this issue, I have no pictures to show)
 
2. Add electrical tape over the top of the O-ring rod, cover, this will prevent dirt or any water entering from top.
(I will add picture here in next few days, this picture was out of focus)
 
3. On the back of the headlight unit, there is metal cover with 6 Tex screws, that allows air and water in if seals isn't perfect. Unscrew 6 Tex screws using Torx 5/32'' screwdriver, or Torque wrench, extension bar with T20 5/32" Torx socket and add Black Silicone to the edge of the metal cover, sealing the unit properly.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-1a.jpg)
 
4. There is an additional housing cover that you can disconnect on the back of the headlight unit. (this is the cover that in this procedure we have not yet put back). This is held in place with two Tex screws on Left and right and at the bottom with a metal clip as outlined in picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-1b.jpg)
    
Unscrew the screws and pull the clip down, you can pop off the housing cover, (note there will be cables connecting to plastic cover, so be careful not to pull on those) If you already have this disconnected, like I did, you move onto adding add Black Silicone to the edge of the housing cover edge, so that when put back on it seals it to the headlight unit.
 
Put a thin line of black silicone on the edge of the lip, as highlighted below where red dots are and then put the housing cover back on and tighten up two screws and pull the metal clip up, to properly lock in place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/black-silicone-sealant.jpg)
 
Where to put black Silicone on housing cover edge
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Headlight-a4-rear-5.jpg)
    
Placing housing unit back on headlight unit
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-161.jpg)
 
Install of screws
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-164.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-165.jpg)
 
And push bottom clip up to lock housing from bottom
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-162.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-163.jpg)
 
Unit is now all sealed and secure :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-166.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-167.jpg)
 

5. Now you have completed steps 1 to 4 let the silicone set for 15-20 minutes. You now need to test if the unit is sealed properly. Best to do this part outside. You need to pour water over the top of the headlight unit everywhere. I used my hose pipe to have a continual supply of water and with-in a few minutes you will see if condensation returns inside the headlight unit or not.
    
I found no condensation even after 30 minutes and I left the headlight units outside in the cold too. Once you are happy all is good, using fiber cloth dry off any water on the outside the headlight unit.
 
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 March 2012, 05:40
STEP 11. You now need to repeat this whole process for you other Headlight unit. :)
 
STEP 12. This step is optional, but I found it a nice touch to keep that clean look to the front headlights, seeing as you spent all this time taking out the amber inserts, only to leave the amber side light bulb in, seems like the bulb needs a stealth look to get rid of the amber look still in the headlight unit , but still retain amber glow with in usage.

Parts required
   · Green tape 
   · Dupli-color Engine enamel Paint (can)
   · Spraying mask (health reasons)
 
Here is the step’s to complete stealth blub look :)
 
You need to remove the side light from headlight unit. You do this by turning side light rear handle to open position (you will see close and open on the back of the headlight unit) and then remove the side light unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-170.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-169.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/headlight-remove-amber-light-168.jpg)
 
You now need to remove the bulb itself from the side light unit, do this by pulling gently on the bulb and it will pop out of its holder.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-12.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-14.jpg)
 
You now need to using tape, tape up the bottom of the bulb so that the electrical part doesn't get any paint on it.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-15.jpg)
 
Now it’s time to paint the Bulbs to get that stealth look. Using Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Paint, which you can buy at local car specialist store or amazon. You spray each bulb evenly with one coat of paint, wait 5 minutes and then add another coat of paint on the bulbs until most of the bulb is covered. Please note any spraying of paint, should be done in a well-ventilated area and not in an enclosed room inside. I highly advise also to be wearing a correctly spraying mask which again you can get cheap on amazon.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-16.jpg)
 
Let the painted dry for while on the Blubs, I left mine for 1 hour.
 
I then removed the tape from the bottom of the bulbs and re-installed the bulb into the side indicator unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-17.jpg)
 
I then re-install the side light holder with the new stealth bulb back into the headlight unit and switched the switch to the closed position.
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-18.jpg)
 
You have now successfully completed Stealth look on your blub for side lights :)
 
STEP 13. Time to temporary re-install your headlights back on your vehicle and test to make all the lights are working, which you can see the first picture all connected up to the Audi and second picture showing the side light working :)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-19.jpg)
 
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/side-light-mod-110.jpg)


Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 March 2012, 05:44
Now the last step procedure of re-installing the headlight units to the car and putting back the Air duct and engine cover. This last procedure will be updated in next few days.

Audi is going into Achtuning next week to have remap of ECU to APR II+ as I keep getting codes errors!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:16
Here is the installation of Blitz-Safe M-LINK V1.B into my Audi B6 Avant

Background on why I went this route:
I used to have a RNS-E in my Audi but it broke so I put the Symphony II Stereo back in the car. To be honest I never used the full functions of RNS-E SATNAV, so really didn't want to buy another one, but I wanted to play my music on my IPod/IPhone and listen to my British radio stations via my IPhone. So I figured I would look up adapters and I came across Blitz safe Audi M-Link V1.B which a few fellow AZ's have installed and seem to like and it covers everything I want, so I ordered one from http://enfigcarstereo.com :)
I will install it and run the cable under the center console and have it come out in the arm rest holder.

Useful links I found on site;
http://enfigcarstereo.com/blog/2011/...uetooth-guide
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...009&styleid=12
And useful Video on install of this very device - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm_gfdJgkuc

Installations Steps

NOTE: The following is a detailed procedure on how I installed Blitz-safe M-Link V1.B in my Audi B6 Avant. I reviewed a few useful DIY's on www and EZ forum but none of them ever covered how to install unit and run cable so it comes out in the arm rest holder, without seeing any cables, so here is how I did it.

I am sure others will find ways to do this or improve on it, but this is what worked well for me :)

Parts needed
   - Blitz-Safe - AUDI iPod Interface MLINK1 V1.B
   - Audi stereo removal keys (x4)
   - Zip ties (x1)
   - Black Electrical Tape
   - Cloth/towel
   - Sand paper
   
Tools needed

   - Torque wrench, extension bar and 8mm socket
   - Phillips screwdriver - large/small
   - Flat head screwdrivers
   - Scissors
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-Blitz-safe-adapter-stereo-keys.jpg)
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-Blitz-safe-adapter-install-tools.jpg)

Step 1. You need to remove the radio/Stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install2.jpg)

Take the 4 stereo removal keys and insert keys into the four slots (make sure you insert them the right way) and push them all the way in as below pictures show.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install3.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install6.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install5.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install4.jpg)

Now all the keys are inserted in the Stereo, you now push the keys outwards (left key - outwards to left) and (Right keys - outwards to Right) While pushing the keys towards the outside, you can pull them towards you to remove the radio/Stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install7.jpg)

Make sure you place a cloth/Towel over the center console, so when you pull out the Stereo you can rest Stereo on the cloth/towel and not scratch the front of the Stereo or center console.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install8.jpg)

Pull Stereo out, I did this by pull on top right and bottom left and then pull on the opposites sides, you may have to try this a few times before it comes out.
NOTE: While pushing the keys towards the outside, you can pull them towards you to remove the radio/Stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install9.jpg)

Stereo out on cloth/Towel
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install10.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:16
Step 2. Next step is to remove the keys from Stereo. Do this by pressing on the clips on the side of Stereo, that is holding the keys in place. Push the clips inwards and then pull keys outwards, as outlined below;
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install12.jpg)

Push clip in and pull key outwards
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install13.jpg)

Key now released. Repeat until all 4 keys are removed.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install14.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install15.jpg)

Step 3.Now you are ready to start taking some of the cables off the Stereo, so place stereo facing downwards as below picture, so you can access cables on the rear of stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install16.jpg)

Now remove the following two cables, with Ariel  black cable first, which you can just pull off and then second cable (yellow) which is held in place with clip, which needs to be pressed in and then pulled upwards.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install17.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install18.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install19.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install20.jpg)

Next step is to remove the below cable  highlighted in blue. There are two clips at each end, press in and pull upwards to pull off
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install21.jpg)

Cable off :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install22.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:18
Step 4.Next step is to now install the first part of the Ipod unit to the stereo, which on the back of the stereo you will see screw as outlined below.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install23.jpg)

Using Philips screwdriver, unscrew this completely.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install24.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install29.jpg)

Now taking the black cable (Earth cable) with eye ring at the end from the Blitz-Safe-IPod unit, screw  the earth cable to the stereo using small Philips screwdriver.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install26.jpg)

Next step is to connect the main Black Stereo cable you removed from the stereo already and plug into the orange cable from the Blitz IPod, as outlined in the next few pictures.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install29.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install30.jpg)

Cables connected.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install31.jpg)

Next step is to take the last cable from Blitz IPod-adapter and connect to the back of the Stereo, where you took out the original black cable.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install32.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install33.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install35.jpg)

Next step is to connect the IPod/IPhone cable to the Blitz IPod adapter unit.  You just need to plug this cable into the end of the adapter unit.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install36.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install37.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install38.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install39.jpg)


Now at this point the Blitz adapter is corrected connected to your Stereo. Time to test this works, before moving onto the next steps.

Step 5.You now need to connect the last two cables that are still unconnected to the Stereo. This is the Ariel  and yellow cable, which you just push on as outlined in below picture.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install40.jpg)

Step 6.I placed the Blitz Adapter and cables back into the center console area, so you can put the stereo unit back into the dashboard, but not completely back in, as we are only testing right now. Make sure you don't put the IPod/IPhone cable behind the stereo, as you are going to use behind the stereo :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install41.jpg)

Ok lets test out if the adapter works :). You will need the keys in the ignition to turn the stereo on.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install42.jpg)

You now press the CD bottom on the stereo twice, so you see CDC1, this is setting for allowing Blitz adapter to play music from  IPod/IPhone unit through your stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install44.jpg)

You can at any time connect your  IPod/IPhone in my case to the Blitz cable and select method for playing your deserved music :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install43.jpg)

All working as required via music applications :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install45.jpg)

Now you have confirmed that the adapter is working, its time to run the cable you connect to you IPod/IPhone unit to the location you want in the car. For me I want to run this cable under the center console and have cable pop up and go into the center arm rest, without any cables showing.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:19
Step 7.Next step is to shut off power to stereo and un-install the stereo with Blitz Adapter still connected completely, so can gain access to central console to run the cable to the arm rest area.
Pull stereo out from center console area and disconnect the following three cables only from Stereo;
   1. Black Ariel cable
   2. The yellow cable right next to Ariel cable
   3. Smaller Black cable connected to Stereo
   
Remove the following two cables, black Ariel cable first, which you can just pull off and then second cable (yellow) which is held in place with clip, which needs to be pressed in and then pulled upwards.
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install40.jpg)
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install18.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install19.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install20.jpg)
   
Next step is to remove the below cable nearest the dashboard (only black cover plug connected to stereo) . There are two clips at each end, press in and pull upwards to pull off
   
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install20a.jpg)
   
Can now pull out the stereo with the Blitz adapter still connected and place on the floor in the car or somewhere safe.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install46.jpg)

Center console without the stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install47.jpg)

Step 8.Ok so now we need to take apart the center console.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install48.jpg)

First step Gear shift cover.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install50.jpg)

Pushing with your fingers from outside inwards, you will be able to lift out the gear shift cover
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install49.jpg)

Pull Gear shift cover until it looks like this.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install51.jpg)

Now we need to remove the face plate cover of gear shift, you do this by putting fingers at top edge and pull upwards to release the top clips underneath as outlined in below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install52.jpg)

Now do the same for the bottom part, do this by putting fingers on the inside edge and pull upwards to release the clips underneath as outlined in below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install53.jpg)

Now pull over the gearshift cover, you will need to tilt it a bit to get it off
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install54.jpg)

And now off :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install55.jpg)

Step 9.Ok next step will be to remove the ash tray bolts, so we can then remove the heating control unit above and then ash tray (some people remove heating unit first, I just did it this way around !!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install56.jpg)

Using a 8mm socket and mini torque wrench to loosen the bolts.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install57.jpg)

Time to undo the bolts :) left side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install59.jpg)

Time to undo the bolts :) right side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install58.jpg)


All bolts removed and closed ashtray, in preparation for removing heating control unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install61.jpg)

Step 10.Now onto remove Heating control unit All you need to do is put your fingers behind the unit and gently push forward, be careful not to let to drop onto the astray top.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install62.jpg)

Now its at this point you can do two things;
   1. Discount all the cables and completely remove the unit (easy way!)
   2. Pull heating control unit out and place to one side with cables connected. (I did this option because I was lazy……! ;) )
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install63.jpg)

So now I can access from stereo, behind the heating control unit and underneath the ashtray, to run my Blitz adapter cable, I now need to have access to under the center console below the hand break and base unit of center console between the seats under the arm rest unit.

Step 11.Remove the Parking brake cover.
Using you fingers, push from underneath the Parking brake plastic cover as outlined in the below picture and push upwards.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install65.jpg)

Once parking brake plastic cover is unclipped, you can then pull outwards with from the top edge.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install66.jpg)

And now removed :) you can see the foam underneath, which we will guide the cable around, will explain that in later steps shortly.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install67.jpg)

Step 12.Next step to remove the plastic cover in the center console underneath the arm rest unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install68.jpg)

Using a flat head screwdriver, you will put the screwdriver down the edge of the plastic as in picture below and just push the screwdriver to the left and this will push the plastic cover to the right and upwards, allowing you to then grab with your fingers to completely remove. Following pictures show explain these actions.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install70a.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install72.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install73.jpg)

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:21
Step 13.We now have all the center console parts removed, to allow you to install the Blitz Adapter cable from the Stereo to the Arm rest. In the picture below you can see from the Red arrows where we will feed the cable through center console and come out where the Red star is, that will be where Stereo will be.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install74.jpg)

Now you can install the cable from Stereo area or from center console, but due to the end one end of the cable has smaller connector as seen in the below picture, this will be easier to pass through the cable, so I started from the center console between the front seats and underneath the arm rest, feed the cable into the small circle hole as in the picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install76.jpg)

You feed the cable underneath and with your other hand grab the cable from open area underneath the hand brake and then feed the cable underneath through to the gear shift area.

Now you will have to move the foam underneath the center console, some of them may be stuck down (glued), so gently push up area you want to feed the cable through, so not to completely remove foam, so the foam will help hold the cable in place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install77.jpg)

This picture shows the route I placed the cable under the center console, using blue arrows.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install78.jpg)

So you are now ready to feed the cable under the ashtray and behind the heating center console unit. As I outlined in few steps before, you have pulled the heating center console unit out and place to one side, I places to the left hand side as seen in picture below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install79.jpg)

Now you have the heating center console unit out of the way, you can now pull out the ashtray unit. Pull the ashtray up and towards you, but be gently as there is a cable connected to the underneath of the unit that we need to disconnect.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install80.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install81.jpg)

Using flat head screwdriver, push the clip upwards and then pull the cable outwards to the left, this will allow you then to disconnect the cable and remove ashtray properly.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install82.jpg)

Now the ashtray is removed, we can feed the Blitz Adapter cable, underneath the gear shift foam as outlined in below picture.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install83.jpg)

I then moved the cable as far as I could to the left hand side as in the below picture and feed the cable through to the main dashboard center console area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install84.jpg)

As you can see in the below picture, you feed the cable through where ashtray was and then behind the main center console dashboard area. You now have the cable completely feed through to where the stereo unit will be.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install84a.jpg)

Closer look at the cable placed under the center console. (I will explain in next few steps how I secure the cable)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install85.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install86.jpg)

Step 14.I would adjust the cable so that you have enough behind the stereo area to connect to the Blitz Adapter, so that you have as much of the cable at the arm rest area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install87.jpg)

Step 15.So next step is to place back the Ashtray, Heating center console unit, plastic cover underneath the hand brake and then re-install the stereo with Blitz adapter connected.

Ashtray re-installation.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install89.jpg)

Place the ashtray close to where it originally is normally placed and flip the ashtray so you can see where you connect the cable. Now connect the cable to the Ashtray.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install92.jpg)

Ashtray cable.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install90.jpg)

Push the ash tray cable onto the ash tray unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install93.jpg)

Now place the Ashtray back into it original location.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install95.jpg)

Step 16.Now take the heating center console unit and re-install. This slides back into the center console.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install97.jpg)

Now lets re-install the bolts to secure the Ashtray.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install98.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install99.jpg)

Step 17.Now its time to secure the Blitz Adapter cable near the gear shift area, before we install the gearshift cover.
Using Electrical tape, cut piece of tape and place over cable on the left hand side as shown in the following pictures. (this tape is all the way from the UK!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install101.jpg)

Tape placed over the cable near the gearshift area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install103.jpg)

Now add tape also over Blitz Adapter cable under the hand brake area. You can also see clearly where I feed the cable underneath the foam.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install102.jpg)

Step 18.Next step is to install the Gearshift cover. You can see in the below picture one of the 4 clips on the underneath of the gear shift cover.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install105.jpg)

Pull the Gearshift leather cover upwards as shown below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install106.jpg)

Place the gearshift cover over the gearshift and leather cover, so you can now push into place the cover into the main clips.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install107.jpg)

Down press down on each corner to push the cover into its original location. You will hear the clips pop into place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install108.jpg)

Now in place :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install109.jpg)

Step 19.Next step is to pull down the gearshift leather cover and push down on each corner to push the edges into the main cover. This clips in easily.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install110.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install111.jpg)

Looking good
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install112.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:22
Step 20.Next step is to re-install the plastic cover  underneath the hand brake, which is really easy. Place cover  tilted downwards as shown in picture below, so the rear plastic sides feeds correctly into the area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install113.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install114.jpg)

Now push with your thumb to push the front of the plastic cover into place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install115.jpg)

Cover in place :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install116.jpg)

Step 21.So now we can move onto installing the Stereo unit with the Blitz Adapter connected.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install117.jpg)

To make sure you don't scratch any of the center console or your Stereo, place a cloth or towel over the center console area as outlined below.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install118.jpg)

Take your stereo and place onto the cloth/towel with the face of the stereo faced down as in the below picture.

You will see that the only cables connected to the Stereo are the ones from the Blitz Adapter.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install119.jpg)

First step is to connect the cable you feed underneath the center console to the Blitz adapter unit. (Nearly managed to do a VW sign while holding the cable and unit…..!!!!!!! )
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install120.jpg)

Cable connected.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install121.jpg)

We now move onto connecting the only cable not connected to anything from Blitz Adapter and plug in the Black Stereo loom cable into this. There will be two cables from main loom that goes to the stereo that biggest one connects into the orange Blitz adapter cable.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install122.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install123.jpg)

We now connect the other smaller main cable back into the back of the Stereo, which is connected to the Audi main loom.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install125.jpg)

Cable connected
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install126.jpg)

Next step is connect the last 2 cables to the Stereo on the right hand side, Arial cable and yellow cable.

Starting with the yellow clip, just press down until it clips into place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install127.jpg)

Push Cable on with finger.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install129.jpg)

Then the Arial cable
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install130.jpg)

Push Cable on with finger.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install131.jpg)

All cables now secure and connected to the Stereo.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install132.jpg)

Step 22.Time to now make sure the Blitz Adapter is secure behind the stereo. The right hand side is the best place I found due to two reasons;
   1. The only area that has the space to hold the adapter, out of the way of the stereo
   2. Over where the adapter is located in the below picture, we can secure the unit to the plastic above it using zip ties :)
   
   So place the unit the right hand slide as I have.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install133.jpg)

I need put tape on the unit and to the plastic above, to hold it in place in preparation for the zip ties
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install134.jpg)

Using  a zip tie as shown below;
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install135.jpg)

I then feed the zip tie around the Blitz Adapter and through one the plastic holes to secure the unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install136.jpg)

Next cut off the excess end of the zip tie and pulled the end of the zip tie towards the back so you can see any of the unit or zip tie if you look directly into the Stereo area, so that the Stereo does not get caught on it for install or removal.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install137.jpg)

No sign of Blitz Adapter from the front :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install138.jpg)

Step 23.So now we can re-install the Stereo back into the main center console, make sure all cables are placed behind stereo and slowly push stereo back in, if the Stereo gets suck for any reason, pull out and check that no cables are getting caught.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install141.jpg)

Step 24.Now this is a key part, DO NOT install the stereo completely yet, we need to test that the Stereo and the new Blitz Adapter work properly.  You can now also remove the cloth/towel.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install142.jpg)

Now connect your device to the Blitz cable and with the ignition on, turn on the stereo and press the CD bottom twice to get to the Blitz Adapter option. (will show up as CDC1 TRACK99)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install143.jpg)

Now place some music on from your device and make sure you can hear the music from your stereo and speakers :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install144.jpg)

Everything was working as required, so I pushed my stereo in properly:)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install145.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:24
Step 25.Now at this point the cable end is just coming out of the center console underneath the arm rest, which you can now do a few options;
   1. Put the plastic cover back into the area where the cable is showing in the below picture and leave the cable on top of the cover. (Blue Arrow)
   2. Feed the cable into the arm rest, via the plastic cover you can see at the bottom of the arm rest (in picture below - highlight with Red Arrow) and then put the plastic cover on as per action 1.
   3. Feed the cable through to the arm rest via the arm rest mechanism, so you see no cables at all and can connect your device inside arm rest unit.
   
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install146.jpg)
   
   At this moment in time, I have gone with option 1 & 2, but will be doing option 3 in next few weeks, due to I need to order some parts to complete action 3.
   
   So here are the steps to complete Actions 1 & 2. Place the center arm rest unit in its normal position as seen in picture below
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install147.jpg)
   
   Now open up the arm rest unit, by pressing the front level upwards, you will now see the cup holder in the arm rest unit. Now due to you will want to place your device in here, we are going to remove this.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install148.jpg)
   
   To remove the cup holder unit, you need to remove the plastic cover that is held in place at the end of the cup holder, so you can view the screws that hold it in place.
   
   Using your fingers you will be able to pull this upwards and out, as it is not held in place by anything.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install149.jpg)
   
   Plastic over off :), you can now see two screws holding the unit in place.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install150.jpg)
   
   Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws, which you only need to unscrew half a turn each, as these screws are designed to be in a open/close positions to secure and loose the cup holder unit in the arm rest unit.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install151.jpg)
   
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install152.jpg)
   
   Now using your fingers, pull the unit upwards as seen in picture below;
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install154.jpg)
   
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install155.jpg)
   
   Now you have a nice cleared out arm rest unit :)
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install156.jpg)
   
   Next is to remove the plastic hole covers inside and outside of the arm rest. You do this by pressing the underneath plastic small cover with your fingers.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install158.jpg)
   
   By pressing on the underneath small plastic cover, will push up the inside cover and allow you to remove the inside cover.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install159.jpg)
   
   You can now pull this out and place to one side. You can now see the underneath cover too from inside now. Using one finger, you can now push out the underneath plastic cover.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install161.jpg)
   
   Now plastic covers are removed, should look like this.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install163.jpg)
   
   Now you can feed the cable through the hole and inside the Arm rest unit, so connect to your device.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install164.jpg)
   
   My IPhone connected to cable, give you an idea of what it looks like.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install165.jpg)
   
   Last step is to re-install the plastic cover in place where the cable comes out from underneath the center console, below the arm rest unit.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install166.jpg)
   
Simply drop in the plastic cover. Now if you find that the cable is stopping the plastic cover from dropping into place correctly, use sand paper and rub down the bottom right corner, until the cable and pop through and plastic cover slides down properly, I had to do this.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install167.jpg)
   
Now pull down the arm rest into the normal position and now you have your IPod/IPhone Device adapter installed to your Stereo and control your music from your device from the Arm rest unit, which as you will find you have enough cable to pull unit out of the arm rest and select different applications and songs as you like.
   
Shot from either side of the arm rest, do you can see just how hard it is to see the cable.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install168.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install169-Finished.jpg)

So this is how I have left my set-up right now, but in the coming weeks, feed the cable through to the arm rest via the arm rest mechanism, so you see no cables at all and can connect your device inside arm rest unit.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/Audi-b6-ipod-adapter-install1.jpg)
   
Now time to enjoy my favorite music via my IPhone through my stereo :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 02 April 2012, 03:26
The last step procedure of re-installing the headlight units to the car and putting back the Air duct and engine cover, I am still writing up, but will publish it soon.

Achtuning visit cleared my CEL error going to APR II+, so happy now.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 May 2012, 04:27
So two jobs completed today, fixed 65'' TV (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/DLP-65inch-TV.jpg), replaced capacitors on motherboard, so happy for that to be done! :) and fixed rear hatch door that holds the Emergency triangle;

There is a plastic latch that is known for breaking over time, so quick pick up from Local Audi Dealer yesterday ($10!) for part and onto replacing it today :)

The issue!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-11.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-12.jpg)

The New part!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-14.jpg)

off comes the old part!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-15.jpg)

Compare old and new parts
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-16.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-17.jpg)

You just push on the new part
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-18.jpg)

All done
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-19.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-110.jpg)

End result
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/boot-hatch-111.jpg)

Also took picture of RS4 Wheels with center installed, going to get tires installed later this week. In two minds if to keep or sell....... but I really do like the finish on them and Dave did an outstanding job.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-rs4-wheel.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 June 2012, 00:38
Well I've had an interesting month......  :angry:

First off I had someone do a hit and run on my car, in my works car park, not F***ing happy about that. Rear bumper was damaged, so had quotes done and that was repaired, cost a little fortune!!

Damage
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bumper-damage-5-25-2012.jpg)

I then noticed my front Chipprotect film was coming off the front bumper and a small stone had gone through the hood film too [:(] and damaged paint underneath. So I got thinking...... before I go take the front bumper off as planned, this must be under warranty, to replace the front bumper chipprotect and also fix the chip on the hood and then replace hood chipprotect.

Well I was right. [:)]

I took it back to where I had it installed and they started to work on repairs, this was late last week. I got a call in the afternoon saying that the chipprotect had pulled paint off the bumper and will properly do the same for hood too, so they want to send the Audi to body repair shop to repaint bumper and hood and after paint is cured put new chipprotect on it. I said "Sure that would be great", so I got my car back and its going in for repairs tomorrow [:)][:D]

Front bumper with paint pulled off. (They stopped after this corner paint come off)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-bumper-paint-off-6-21-2012.jpg)

Front hood chip, hard to take picture of it, but you can see it when you look at hood.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/hood-chip-6-22-2012.jpg)

I also got tires put on RS4 wheels and so put them on the Audi over weekend.

Before no tires
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/audi-rs4-wheel-1.jpg)

With tires
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rs4-wheels-audi-6-22-2012.jpg)

and then on the car [:D]
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rs4-wheels-on-audi-6-24-2012.jpg)

I will update all once the front bumper and hood is completed.

I also started on my air ride set-up, these are for up front and I am making rears (Upper & lower brackets: bags & fittings)
and have on order management system. I will update thread in few weeks once all equipment arrives.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/bagyard-front-struts-Audi-A4-6-26-2012.jpg)

Also moved the mk1 Cab this weekend so can get body work done for that too.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 30 July 2012, 23:36
ok, so parts are arriving nicely now for the air ride, but I've had a nightmare the last month with certain company fixing my front hood and bumper paint work and then having clear chipprotect replaced. So I recieved my car back and Chipprotect with-in a few days started to bubble up [headbang] so I called up and complained and asked them to fix it. Short story, I had them pull all of the chip protect off and this is what happenned to the front bumper paint
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1050375.jpg)

Lucky the rest of the bonnet/hood and wings/fenders are ok.

Now at this point I said, I am getting my painter to fix the bumper, so the car is with painters now and should be all fixed by next Weekend, bumper coming off and being done properly, I am also getting the new chipprotect installed after the paint has cured for week.

So while I had the car back (Few days) I started on measuring up the rear spare wheel area as this is where I am going to install the Air ride. I only have Air tanks left to order, so I needed to confirm what I needed, so here goes!

I did a load of research and most of the tanks sizes I found and was adviced on was either 3 or 5 Gallon tanks and due to I needed to put tanks into the spare wheel area, I am going to go with 3 gallon tanks, most of these come in these sizes;

3 Gallon tanks
17 x 6.5
17 x 7
18 x 7
19 x 8
20 x 7

So I now needed to confirm size I needed, so I made up temp tank, by using a round pillow, bubble wrap and paper :) [wrench]

First take round pillow, hopefully the other half won't see this update! [:D] and wrap bubble wrap around it until you get the required height, I started with 7'', then taping paper together, you then wrap the paper around the bubble wrap, I did two of these, so I can adjust the paper inwards or outwards, to get to the required length I wanted.

Pillow with bubble wrap
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-1.jpg)

Paper that slips over pillow and bubble wrap
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-2.jpg)

I put all together
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-4.jpg)

I then measured from 16'' to 20'' marks on paper, so I know the measurement length
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-3.jpg)

Now onto testing out in the car, this is at 20'', looks very small...
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-5.jpg)

I pulled back the cover and there is a nice gap between the top cover and the spare wheel cover
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-6.jpg)

Then removed the spare wheel cover and here is wht you see, I then measured three locations, give me rough idea
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-7.jpg)

Now with wheel out, I placed the temp Air tank in two locations that I wanted to confirm measurement, to confirm the size I require to order;

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-8-175-18inch.jpg)

I also measure the depth from bottom to the top as well as the tank.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-917-5-18inch.jpg)

So I now know I will need 17.5 to 18'' L  x 7'' H tanks and I have 13'' in depth, so I can easily place the compressors as well, which are AZ OB2 :)

Once I get the Audi back, I will update on front and rear bumper work that was done and then fully onto the Air ride installation.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 31 July 2012, 19:22
So here is my Rear Slam Technologies RE-5 with brackets. The brackets are going off to get powder coated in Red to match the car :), also will be fitting new fitments and paint the ends of the RE-5 so everything is protected.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Slam-Technologies-RE-5.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-suspension-custom-brackets.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 04 August 2012, 04:07
Compressors turned up

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/compressors.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/2x-az-compressor.jpg)

and one of the two Air Zenith OB2 Compressors. OMG they are heavy, but quality of build is high and the noise is so low, love it [wrench]
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/az-compressor.jpg)

and 3/8 DOT approved Airline, only problem is I order black not blue, this will be going back and hopefully black airlines arrive next week..... one step forward and one back [headbang]
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/3-8-airlines.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 08 August 2012, 18:28
Happy Simon  :cool:

I got my Audi back on Monday and I will be dropping it off again to Chip Protect company next Wednesday 8/15 to put chipprotect film back on the whole front of the Avant, to protect my fresh paint work [:d]
      
Regarding the paint work I had done, front bumper and hood, I can tell you this, the quality of the paint work is A1, see pictures below (from mobile) will do high quality pictures this evening.
      
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-car-782012.jpg)
      
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-car1-782012.jpg)
      
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front-bumper-872012.jpg)
      
Rear bumper repainted month ago
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bumper-repainted-1-872012.jpg)

my plan is to now focus on Air ride installation and then get new rims and then it will be going back for more work on arches so I can get the low look I want.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 09 August 2012, 04:21
Forgot the underneath front bumper picture, need to clean underneath of front bumper, already got it dirty after driving it.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/underneath-front-bumper-872012.jpg)

and my custom air tanks arrived :) 2 x 3 Gallon tanks

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/parcels-airtanks.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/custom-air-tanks.jpg)

Tank 1
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/custom-air-tanks1.jpg)

Tank 2
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/custom-air-tanks2.jpg)



Looking forward to this weekend, can really get started on building out spare wheel area.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 10 August 2012, 22:16
Well yesterday I wanted to check my K&N Filter to see how much crap maybe got sucked into the box from the painters and I found a few friends.

FYI: If you want to do K&N Filter installation, this has been written up many times, but I found when I did research that this write was useful (Thanks to A4mods.com)

K&N Filter installation into Audi A4 (http://"http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/kn.html&category=1")

So opened up the Air filter box, all looking good and clean
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/back-in-KandN_filter.jpg)

then I removed the air filter, which was not dirty at all, but........ I found this, two little mouse.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/mice-in-box.jpg)

So I pulled out the mouse's and buried them in the garden and cleaned out the air filter box, I did manage to get that last bit of crap that is showing in the picture as well.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/clean-box.jpg)

So reinstalled K&N Filter and then bolted all up again. I am so glad I check my filter every few months.

Here is picture I took months ago when I installed my K&N Filter, to show comparison of OEM to K&N Filter
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/compare-filters.jpg)

Well onto Air ride set-up today and the weekend :)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 25 August 2012, 05:30
Well now I have all the parts I need - Black DOT Airline 3/8 turned up this week :) I am working on design and installation of the AccuAir Mgmt, Compressors and Air tanks. I will upload pictures of how I went about this in few weeks, so to make the write up useful for everyone.

This weekend, I will be cutting and installing the wood to hold everything in place, so I can then send away my 2 x Air tanks to get painted up.....

Here is the AccuAir Management and E-level kit with remote, with additional Air DOT Lines, Parker Water Traps 250PSI, so can handle the OB2's :) and of course Mead dump mufflers.

Big thank you to BagRiders.com & AccurAir.com, this quality of this kit is amazing.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/accurair-elevel.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/accurair-elevel2.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/accuair-mgmt.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/accur-elevel-parts.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/elevel.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/e-level-2.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/e-level-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/dot-airline3-8.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Parker-250psi-water-traps.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/parker-250psi-watertrap2.jpg)

and the remote which will be used alot in the near future!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/remote.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 09 September 2012, 02:36
Air Ride prep work in Trunk of Audi Avant

So here is what I did to prep and understand the measurements and template to cut out of wood to make up my trunk set-up for air ride.

Materials: Cardboard box, scissors, tape, bubble wrap, kitchen towel and small pieces of wood (3 x 1) and of course air tanks and compressors
Time spent: 120 minutes (2 Hours)

I used cardboard first and used measurements used before to cut out rough shape to fit into the trunk spare wheel area. I spent a good 30 minutes cut and cut until I got the base piece to the size I required.

Measurements
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/temp-tank-7.jpg)

Cardboard cut to shape for base, note the 4 spots, which will be were the airline will go underneath the car to the 4 wheels
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-1.jpg)

I then focused on cutting out cardboard for second base piece that goes on top in the middle. This will hold the AccurAir Management & E-Level.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-2.jpg)

I then took the 2 air tanks and placed into the trunk area
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-3.jpg)

Using some small wood, whole kitchen towel (good for adjusting height) and bubble wrap (love bubble wrap!!!!) pop pop lol, adjust the air tanks until they both are in the right position. This is key part so take you time and get the position right as you don't want the tanks touching anything. I placed cardboard at front and back of tanks to give me gap between air tanks and other edges (roughly 4-5mm)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-4.jpg)

Now we have the tanks in position, time to measure the tanks positions as in height, so can I then make up brackets at right height to hold air tanks in position.
First measure the tank nearest to the rear of the Audi trunk, measures 8.5'' in height to top of tank.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-5.jpg)

Then second tank at front of the Audi trunk, measures 11.5'' in height to the top of tank
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-6a.jpg)

I then measures the center height from base until to the center until, which measures 6'' in Height
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-7.jpg)

Now I have these measures and base templates, I can now using wood, cut out required shapes and make up the trunk platform that will hold everything in place.

I dropped in the Compressors to see how much space I had, a little tight, but everything fits in. Once I get the platform together in wood, I will then measure up compressors positions properly, as they will need to be raised 1/2'' (Half inch).
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi-trunk-prep-8.jpg)

Next update will show cutting, putting together and finished trunk platform.

Now while we are on the subject of creating platform in the trunk to hold all the air ride in place, I thought I would add these links to give you idea of all the different air ride setups people have done, I found it very useful.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4171339-what-are-Hardlines (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4171339-what-are-Hardlines)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4527666-Official-Air-Ride-Show-Off-Thread (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4527666-Official-Air-Ride-Show-Off-Thread)
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15600 (http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15600)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 September 2012, 01:36
Building Trunk Platform for Air Ride - cutting, putting together and finished

So with my last update, I now have template to work off to create air ride platform

Materials: MDF, screws, bolts, nuts, washers, blue tape, 1/8'' inch steel metal, small and large brackets, all brought at Home-depo
Timeframe: over a day

So with MDF on flat secure place, I outlined using the cardboard templates, the required base and middle platform shapes. Then using power drill tool, make sure you wear eye protection for safely, drill hole so can use jigsaw to cut out required shapes.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base2.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base3.jpg)

Tools to be used
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base4.jpg)

let the fun start!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base5.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base6.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base7.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base8.jpg)

Due to making the base fit perfect in the trunk area, sanded down the edge at angle as seen below, due to shape of spare wheel area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base9.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base10.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base11.jpg)

Test fit and it’s perfectly straight too
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base12-testfit.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base13-leveled.jpg)

So now onto the center top platform that will hold the Manifold and E-Level AccurAir
Using cardboard template onto of MDF, outlined the shape and then cut it using jigsaw.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base14-center.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base15-center.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base16-center.jpg)

Now onto making temp legs to hold the base and center platforms together. Using wood, measured, cut three pieces of wood at 6’’ inch in length and then checked everything in trunk area.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base17-center-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base18-center-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base19-center-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base20-center-legs.jpg)

Now using some small brackets, screwed these onto the ends of the wood, so can then adjust to make sure the legs fit perfectly. These are temporary legs, so I can use these as template to make the legs in the next steps out of 1/8’’ metal.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base22-center-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base23-center-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base23a-center-legs.jpg)

Installed temporary legs onto base unit
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base24-center-legs-installed.jpg)

And tested to make sure all level, after a few adjustments I now have everything straight.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base28-center-final-check.jpg)

 So now onto making the legs out of 1/8’’ metal. Measured up metal and then shaped metal to required positions.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base29-legs-in-metal.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base30-legs-in-metal.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base32-legs-in-metal.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base33-legs-in-metal.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base34-legs-in-metal.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 14 September 2012, 01:38
Now repeated this for other two legs as well.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base35-legs-in-metal-3-completed.jpg)

Now installed legs onto the base unit and tested middle platform to make sure legs are correct angles. After a few adjustments, everything was as required and to the height need too.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base37-legs-installed.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base38-legs-installed-level-check.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base39-legs-level-check.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base40-legs-height-check.jpg)

Now installed into the Audi and in first test, everything fitted as required, even tested the Air tanks as well.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base41-testing-in-audi.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base42-check-airtank.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base43-check-airtank.jpg)

Now moving onto making the air tank brackets, but due to someone in the family, deleting my camera SD card, I lost a lot of my pictures of these steps, but I used the same format as the legs, but started out with getting the height right by using wood and then cutting precut brackets, which I then adjusted and cut to fit to hold Air tanks in place.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base44-tank-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base46-tank-legs.jpg)

Finished Air Tank brackets with tanks installed
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base48-tank-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base49-tank-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base50-tank-legs.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base51-tank-legs.jpg)

And installed in the Audi
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/base54-installed-tested.jpg)

Once I have everything in place I will be covering all of the platform, brackets and legs with black paint

Next update will be the Compressors installed onto the platform with water traps and manifold and E-Level AccurAir equipment.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 October 2012, 19:06
ok been busy with work and family, so not made alot of progress, but I went and changed my mind on the way I am going with Air ride set-up, here is how the new set-up will be.


(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-setup1.jpg)

hold on, spare wheel is back?!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-setup2.jpg)

I see something!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-setup3.jpg)

New layout!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-setup-4.jpg)

So I will be going for a trunk and inside the car view - two views of my set-up.

Front view, the E-level unit will be angled and into the floor
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/front.jpg)

Rear view, the VU4 will be hidden under the floor.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear.jpg)

I will have Hardlines from compressors going to the top tanks and then hardlines from rear ports to each tank and then hardlines from bottom end ports to VU4, I will have a hidden set-up under the floor, that will allow me to add Air tools, my Digital monitors few other goodies, that I will show off once completed.


Now I have finalized on my design, I ordered all my Fargola fittings
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/fargola-fittings.jpg)

Now onto making my new floor for trunk.

Using the current trunk floor, as guide, you can see where the tanks, Vu4 and compressors will be.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-floor.jpg)

I ordered new Exo Rings and have drilled and screwed together the top and bottom rings around the tanks together, again not seen this done before.

exo Rings
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/exo-rings.jpg)

Measuring up tanks on MDF before cutting up to size in Audi.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tanks-newsetup-1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/twin-tanks-3g.jpg)

First part of floor cut and in the car
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-floor-p1.jpg)

Second part of floor cut and in the car
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-floor-p2.jpg)

and final part
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-floor-p3.jpg)

Tthe blue tap on the edges is to stop MDF scrapping my side panels.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/new-floor-2.jpg)

Next setup will be me cutting up the new floor to complete installation of tanks, compressors and hardlines to VU4 and explaining what tools, materials you need to do hardlines, how to do it.

I also managed to find a automatic Water traps, so that they will automatically flush water in traps out the bottom of the car.


















Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 19 December 2012, 23:31
ok been busy with family due to death :(, but been spending evenings working on finishing off main tanks set-up, which I will allow the pictures to speak for themselves.

I've also raised the trunk floor by 3'' and have it setup just like OEM set-up, will post those pictures over weekend.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060527_zps9f502910.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060530_zps183792df.jpg)

Top tank Drainage setup
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060533_zps9d509cd2.jpg)

Top tank to lower tank drainage setup
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060534_zpsd00203aa.jpg)

Underneath lower tank
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060536_zps40b47ab5.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060537_zpsea8be07a.jpg)

I now need to take everything apart and carpet the whole setup so it is OEM Gray trunk carpet color and then bolt everything in place.

Next will be putting all back in Audi Trunk and cut the floor MDF to go around bottom tank, so I can then install compressors and water traps, to finish off the hard lines.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 29 December 2012, 00:09
here are pictures of the tanks set-up tested in the Audi's trunk with the new flooring, lets just say it fits as I planned :)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/01test-trunk_zpscfc8817c.jpg)

The flooring around the bottom tank is not cut yet...!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/02test-trunk_zpsca9e220b.jpg)

Make sure everything is in right place from inside the car view. As planned tanks are 25mm away from the top and 2.5'' from rear of the seats.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/03test-trunk_zps4360ef11.jpg)

View with rear seats down, love these
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/04test-trunk_zps80ec7bf8.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/05test-trunk_zpsbf6affe3.jpg)

Now to prepare template so I can cut the final rear trunk floor piece. Took off the hard lines from top to bottom tank
and removed top tank
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/11test-trunk_zps79c9ca19.jpg)

Now using cardboard, cut and sized up cardboard so its the same size of last flooring piece.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/12test-trunk_zpsb6816bf0.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/13test-trunk_zps292d3159.jpg)

Cut the cardboard in half, this allows me to cut cardboard for back and front of tanks easier.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/14test-trunk_zps4056b036.jpg)

Then taking my time, I placed cardboard up against tank as far as possible and started marking and cutting until in place.
The rear piece was easy to do
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/14atest-trunk_zps2a20ac4a.jpg)

The front piece was a pain in the A%*$, as needed to cut around the tank ends and hard lines.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/15test-trunk_zps88021341.jpg)

So now I will use the templates to draw up against the floor MDF to then cut and test.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 03 January 2013, 01:05
Here are the details of final construction of the trunk.

New floor sides & final floor piece cut to fit around bottom tank.

New floor sides

First started off by removing the trunk side cargo lacks.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside02_zps965ff711.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside03_zpsfc835d41.jpg)

I then cut the side pieces (weird I can't find any pictures of doing these :( ) so I will explain how I did it.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside04_zps31346f9d.jpg)

I used cardboard and measured both sides, I then cut the cardboard again and again until I got the perfect fit. I placed smaller wood underneath the cardboard to get two heights I required to make sure I got the main and top pieces to the required sizes.

Here you can see the main piece and top piece with the screws. I did the set-up this way, so I can lift the top pieces out, so I can still get access to the trunk sides if required.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside05_zps3cad133e.jpg)

you can see here the rear screws on side piece, the rear top floor piece will go over this and bolts will screw through the top of rear top piece of floor and the sides.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside07_zps89071a10.jpg)

Same set-up on the other side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside08_zps4b7b3336.jpg)

The top side I cut again so they are single pieces, as in the pictures above I had to make more adjustments to get the fit I required.

Here is me testing out the trunk floor, you can see the rear floor piece goes all the way across both sides, so I can secure that piece via the trunk cargo holders with bolts.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside09_zpsbe05a7e0.jpg)

Here you can see the front piece in place, everything working as required.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside010_zps28df8c6e.jpg)

Last part is to make sure the middle and front piece of floor can fold up as per OEM Floor and it does :), just need to add hinges.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside011_zps67216ca0.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside012_zps0daf6ad9.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside013_zpsdbc801a5.jpg)

and picture of new trunk floor complete.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/trunkside014_zps719bd289.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 03 January 2013, 01:06
Final floor piece cut to fit around bottom tank

So in two updates ago, I cut the cardboard for final trunk floor piece.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step1_zpsb7c1ea13.jpg)

I cut that template up more, so I could then tape it back together so I had only two pieces, so I can take one piece out in the future from the Rear, to access the setup underneath the new flooring.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step2_zps217c242f.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step3_zps56223003.jpg)

I then placed the two cardboard templates on top of the trunk floor piece and draw around templates. I cleaned up the straight lines, so the cuts are perfect. I also drilled hole on each side, on where the hard lines go through the MDF.

Cutting time!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step5_zps5043c77a.jpg)

I then cut the tank and tank holder shape out and also the drainage piping hole.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step6_zpsbf39f521.jpg)

Then tested out. I had to make few adjustments on the drainage hole and ends of tanks, but now fits as I required :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step7_zpsbdf30e2a.jpg)

Now onto the front piece
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step8_zps649139ab.jpg)

I cut out the tanks shape and then tested, again slight adjustment at the ends and it fits perfectly as I require.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step9_zps89f0c98f.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step10_zps6952a563.jpg)

I then got the compressors and placed then in the trunk and guess what?????!! They only fit perfectly aligning up with supports underneath. This is why I plan a lot, so I only have to do all this work once. :) To say I'm happy with the results is an understatement!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step11_zps77907453.jpg)

I love this photo
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step11a_zpsfd96a0cc.jpg)

I then took everything out of the trunk, so I can finish off the compressor > Water Traps > Top Tank piping and to carpet everything and complete wiring. Next update will be covering this and more details on how I did hard lines.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 22 January 2013, 05:32
So with parts waiting to arrive to finish of the trunk/boot setup, I picked up my rear air bag plates this evening. So here are the rear bags with plates when I first bought them
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1050396_zps8d4de1be.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1050397_zpsdd6c9290.jpg)

Plates before sending off to painters for powder coating
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1050403_zpsb0ba9a2f.jpg)

Fresh wet black powder coated paint :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/P1060654_zpsbdc1c11b.jpg)

I was going to go red, but you won't see these once new rims/wheels will be on. I will be making up the rear bags over the week, will post up details once done.

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 January 2013, 00:00
So here is me building back together the RE5 Rear Air Bags for the Audi.

With the new painted brackets done, build time

Here are all the parts that make up the rear Air bags for RE5
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-1A_zps59cf71be.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-2_zps0bcf2c26.jpg)

So first step is to install the air fitting into the bag. I am using a 1/2 NPT to 3/8 DOT line PTC.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-4_zpscef84de8.jpg)

Using 22inch spanner, I tighten it up until I felt it was secure. This was 4.5 turns
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/REAR-BAG-5_zps0dfc7ef1.jpg)

Now place plate on
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/REAR-BAG-6_zpse981f429.jpg)

and then install the bolts, with washers
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/REAR-BAG-7_zpsf7055e9b.jpg)

and tighten bolts.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/REAR-BAG-8_zpsf05778f2.jpg)

Now to attach the other plate to the air bag
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/REAR-BAG-9_zpsdbbd3d39.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-1_zps2a560050.jpg)

Install all three bolts, make sure the plate is centered, this is key.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-2_zps03e29bf6.jpg)

I now have one Air bag ready for installation, you can see second one in parts still, but not for long?!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-3-ONECOMPLETE_zps7eecd6de.jpg)

I then repeated the process for the second air bag
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-4_zps29826e38.jpg)

Sadly when I come to final bolt to install on the second air bag, I noticed that a hard plastic washer was broken, so I will get another one of those tomorrow, but here is the finished rear air bags completed!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-5_zps183215b5.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-6_zpsc32b943b.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear-bag-9-7_zps6d6c2ec6.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 28 January 2013, 04:07
Securing tank brackets together

One of items that I have left for a while was securing both the tanks together via the EXO rings. You can see the setup I have in picture below, but I need to adapter the rings to secure them.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/step11a_zpsfd96a0cc.jpg)

I took the top tank off and then disconnected the Exo Rings
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup1_zpsdc8df577.jpg)

Here is how I need the rings to secure together, there are threads at the bottom of each Ring to secure to a floor
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup3_zps23f5d22e.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup2_zps85f85004.jpg)

Measure the threads on rings, they are 5/16'', so I got a Thread ROD, which to make up my custom threads to secure them together.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup4_zps20d1216e.jpg)

So Securing ring in Vise, using a 1/4'' drill I drilled out through the ring. Ideally you want to use a secure drill, instead of hand drill, but I've done this loads, so just took my time.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup4a_zpsed241546.jpg)

First hole
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup5_zps6bdb13fe.jpg)
Second hole
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup6_zps522f3f70.jpg)

Now using my Tap and die set, generate the right 5/16'' thread in new hole.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup8_zps1bec56f0.jpg)

The 5/16'' tool
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup9_zpsa8cc4630.jpg)

You should take your time when doing this, I also use both hands when doing this kind of work, so I don't pull the tool to any side and get clean threads in the whole.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup10_zpsd2cd6aa9.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup11_zps32966370.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup11a_zps45860115.jpg)

Here is the Thread ROD all the way through the Exo ring
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup12_zps879c62be.jpg)

You can see here how the thread goes through and will secure into the next Exo ring
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup14_zpsade082e0.jpg)

I then repeated the drilling and tapping for both Exo rings parts
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup15_zpse5a51d46.jpg)

Test thread rod securing two Exo rings, works perfectly. You see a gap between the rings in the pictures, this is due too I didn't tighten up the thread, that will disappear once I cut the thread rod to the required lengths.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup16_zpsbed86a2a.jpg)

So tapped the thread where I require to cut it.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup17_zpsdc4bd8ce.jpg)

Now securing thread rod in Vise and using Dremel tool cut the thread rod
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup19_zps9d8a9a72.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup20_zpsf8bcd96e.jpg)

Time to clean up the ends of the Thread rod piece with file.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup21_zps220b670d.jpg)

Here you can see thread rods one filed down (left) and one from just being cut (right). Key to get these nice and straight and then using die/tap tool make sure threads are as needed.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup22_zpsfd5cfb40.jpg)

Only thing left to do now, is cut straight line at the end of the each thread so I can use screwdriver to screw then in. Used Dremel to create these.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup23_zps86128d45.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup29_zpsd343a9ed.jpg)

One set of rings complete, see how they will install.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup24_zpse4cd8fb2.jpg)

Threads install in top rings, top side
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup25_zps9e6fde80.jpg)
Bottom side of rings
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup26_zpsd33c40dd.jpg)

Ring installed, you can see thread on left half way threaded in and one on the right completely in.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup27_zpse742517b.jpg)

With the first Exo ring installed, now need to tape up and paint tops of screws, even though they won't be seen, its my OCD...!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup28_zps81b60ab2.jpg)

Here is the end result, with both rings installed, one painted.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup30_zps80f92bed.jpg)

and the other one painted. Another to do item completed. :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Exo_setup31_zpsd434b99a.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 20 February 2013, 05:55
Update on final piping work I did before I took everything apart to do the carpeting.

Added the hardline pipes for the Manifold Exhaust, the end of the pipes will have PTC fitting and then be routed into spare wheel area and then through metal to outside, with filters added and metal cover to protect filters from weather.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5265800x533_zpsbaf06f8e.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5253800x533_zps61af98d8.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5251800x533_zps3eaac8c7.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5240_zps245a696a.jpg)

Then added to hard lines pipes from manifold which will connect to each corner air bag. These will be cut to length to have 90 degree PTC fittings, which I will then connect DOT line down into the spare wheel area and then connecting to another 90 degree PTC fittings going through metal using Bulk head fitting to outside of car.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5250800x533_zps6a269de1.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5248800x533_zpsabcb23d3.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5247800x533_zps6c88365e.jpg)

And the final and key hard line pipe and Air tool connector. You will also see one of the Exhaust pipes on the right of this picture

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5245_zpsdf3803e9.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5246_zps6ad0b021.jpg)

The Final picture which you can see the exhaust pipes on left/right and in center the manifold hard lines and then air tool connector on right side.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_5256800x533_zpsaf59c8df.jpg)

Next update will be finished product with a video of playing around with Air ride  :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 05 May 2013, 06:20


So here is the added Compressor Relay and kill switch, so if I can experience any issues with compressors I can kill the power to each of them for troubleshooting.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Compressor-relay-and-kill-switch_zps33c404b3.jpg)

Here is the complete setup ready just before I installed in the car for the final time.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/finishedproduct-before-final-install_zpsda332aea.jpg)

Nothing to see in the trunk.....
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/nothing-to-seefinal_zpsd44bb285.jpg)

but there is.....


just to compare non carpeted version
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/before-fullsetup-carpeted_zps33543473.jpg)

Final product
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Finished-air-ride-trunk-setup_zps15121aeb.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/finished-air-ride-trunk-setup2_zps3b8f1de4.jpg)

Will upload video to utube and provide link.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: xtetx on 12 May 2013, 17:10
naughty that! looks sick man
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 23 May 2013, 00:11
thanks.

Little more custom work inside the Audi

Started out as always by creating a template out of cardboard, to make sure I get a good fit in arm rest and can open and close lid properly.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Arm-rest1_zps4f1c73c5.jpg)

Next up cut out holes to install Kill switch, AZ Pressure gauge and Air ride remote.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest2_zps89ea9cfc.jpg)

Now using the cardboard template, I cut out of MDF shape required.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest3a_zps3bf104d6.jpg)

Test fit, first time everything fits as required :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest4_zpsae8e62c3.jpg)

Time to carpet MDF
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest5_zps17ba89fe.jpg)

Finished product
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest6_zps6ed117e4.jpg)

Now installed in the arm Rest :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/arm-rest7_zpsd1969c67.jpg)

All cables are hidden inside the unit and are routed into center console all hidden and still able to raise and pull down arm rest. I had to do a bit of cutting and mod'ing to make the cables fit, as there is no room with the design Audi did.

and working
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Arm-rest-airridesetup_zps54ddc312.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 08 June 2013, 06:29
If you have not seen these yet, you should go have a look, will be installing mine over the coming week once it arrives, this will allow me to see so many options on how the car is running

 - B6 P3Cars Integrated digital Interface gauge.

(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server400/k0wz20i/products/51/images/176/b7_1__11024.1370343248.1280.1280.jpg)

http://www.p3cars.com/audi-a4-s4-a5-s5-rs4/p3cars-audi-b6-a4-s4-vent-integrated-digital-interface/ (http://www.p3cars.com/audi-a4-s4-a5-s5-rs4/p3cars-audi-b6-a4-s4-vent-integrated-digital-interface/)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 June 2013, 05:23
Installed and configured P3cars B6 A4 Avant digital Gauge. First B6 owner to have this.

In short this product is just great. Must go and test out the 0-60MPH function to see how fast the Audi is!!

P3 Cars Customer Service and support has been just amazing. Will do a more in-depth write up over the week. I also have a lot to write up and update you all on - not only on Air ride, but the Glove box pains, as well as new Wheels/Rims!

Gauge is showing RPM, there are so many options on this gauge, plus being able to clear codes is just a real bonus. I still have to plug in the Auto-dimmer option and Air ride, that will be done later this week.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/4f28487b-8709-4d90-b702-d4c730fc19e5_zps52dff9cb.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 20 July 2013, 06:16
Installation of P3.cars multiple digital Vent Gauge

So after researching about current gauges I could buy for my Audi B6, I ended up with the a P3.cars Multiple Digital Vent Gauge, due to the many features it has to show data from your ECU using OBD port, plus there are three additional connection for Analog connections and external Boost sensor.

Here is installation process and experience I had with this P3.cars product.

First of all I have to say a Big thank you to Rick at P3.cars, as I had spoken to them about a B6 version before they released this current product and they kept me informed of when this product would be releasing so I could be one of the first to get the product and test it out.
Product details I found useful;
   Ø P3.cars website - http://www.p3.cars.com (http://www.p3.cars.com)
   Ø Installation, Configuration  and setup details  can be found below as well here - http://www.p3cars.com/install (http://www.p3cars.com/install) (either VW/Audi link)
   Ø Support information - http://www.p3cars.com/support/ (http://www.p3cars.com/support/)
   Ø Full Product details please refer to P3.cars http://www.p3.cars.com (http://www.p3.cars.com) - features of Gauge;

Plug and Play install Quick plug and play install with zero cutting required.
All power, ground, and data points come directly from the diagnostics port connector.   
Boost/Vacuum Display High resolution boost/vacuum via diag port for FAST install.
Optionally read boost via boost tap (not included).   
Multiple Gauge Displays Boost/Vac, Coolant Temp, Intake Air Temp, Exhaust Gas Temp, Throttle Plate, Speed, RPM with Shift-light, Battery voltage and more!
Peak Recall & Run Record Recall the peak value from any mode, or record and playback 15 seconds of data from the current mode.
Temperature peaks recorded in the background.   
Universal Aux Inputs Includes additional inputs to optionally connect any 0-5v sensor with universal settings for display ranges and bar graph displays from -999 and 999 max values.   
On the Fly Configuration Menu Lockout/Display off mode, English(PSI, F, MPH) or Metric(BAR, C, KPH) selection, Adjustable boost display resolution, Ambient Calibration for boost sensor and more

Now on the goods :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent1_zps97ad4548.jpg)

What I received in the box!

Now you can order two setups for your B6, the Gauge with vent or Gauge without vent, (plus you can order gauge for Left or right hand side vent). I actually ordered without the vent, but due to postage delays Rick at P3.cars not only upgraded my order and provided me with Gauge with vent, but I got a call from them apologizing for delay = First Gold Star to P3.cars for customer services :) :) I was not expecting that.

You should receive;

   - Gauge with vent or Gauge on its own (Depending on what you order)
   - Wiring harness (OBD port at one end and looks like VGA connection on other)
   - Control box
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent2_zpsd046ed3c.jpg)


Here you can see the cable from gauge coming out of the back of Vent and another cable that connects to provide lighting to vent.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent3_zps2759bcb0.jpg)

Time to install Vent

First up is to remove the current drive sides vent.

As usual, you need to remove the dashboard end cover, this can be done with either a flat screwdriver or using your ignition key.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent4_zpscebf7759.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent5_zps8bbaf3be.jpg)

In the below image, you need to unplug the cable that connects to the vent, this cable provides lighting to the vent
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent6_zpsede06010.jpg)

Me disconnecting cable
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent7_zpsbfbc9a84.jpg)

Now place you hand inside the back of the dashboard and you want to push the vent forward, so that it comes out of the dashboard. I've read people trying to pull the vent out from the front, but this will only result in you breaking or damaging the vent.

The Vent should not be easy to pull out from the front and put out of the way, ready for you to install your new P3.cars Digital Vent gauge.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent8_zps51a5eeea.jpg)


Now to install the Digital Vent Gauge. First up is to connect the first cable, which will provide light to the vent. This is straight forward push connect connector.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent9_zpsb2917718.jpg)

Next is to feed the second cable through the vent dashboard hole and out of the side dash end cover area. Do not yet put the Digital vent gauge into the vent hole, as we need to complete the installation first and do testing first, or else you might have to just un-install the gauge in vent! (Trust me I learnt from this experience)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3casrs-vent10_zps02772e1f.jpg)

Now we need to connect the wiring harness and the gauge cable to the control box. This is straight forward as the connects are different for each part, so you cannot mess up connecting them together.

Gauge cable to control box
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent11_zps70a9416e.jpg)

Make sure it clips in.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent12_zpsd0b5e8b4.jpg)

Now connect wire harness to control box. Push to connect and then tighten up harness to control box with two screws by using the plastic screw tops. (yes I know, the carpet is dirty, just means I need to clean up afterwards ;) )
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent13_zps2e4ff45e.jpg)

Connected. You will see the other cables in this picture, these are for the following;
   - OBD connector is big connector
GREEN=dimmer
   - BROWN=Analog1
   - BLUE=Analog2
   - YELLOW/PURPLE with BLACK AUX PLUG=external boost sensor
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent14_zpsff0c8464.jpg)

Now time to plug the OBD cable into the Audi OBD port, make sure we have the right connector, all looks good
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent15_zps3b71d5bf.jpg)

Now time to connect cable to OBD port and this is where straight away I saw a problem :(. With the current OBD connector with cable at side, the cable prevents me from even getting the cable any further then 1mm onto the OBD port in the Audi. (wow I need to clean underneath here!!)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent16_zpsc057299f.jpg)

So I emailed Rick at P3.cars Customer Service with detailed summary of what I had done so far with pictures and I got a response with hours saying they will be sending me another wiring harness with a different OBD port connector, I should receive it with-in few days. Now this is where I was surprised and happy to see they heard my issues and instead of asking more questions, they responded with action. :) P3.cars Customer Service gets another Gold Star (That’s 2 so far).

And true to what P3.cars said, with-in 2 days, received new wiring harness, here you will see the two harnesses, other than OBD port difference the rest of the cabling is the same.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent17_zpsb33227e2.jpg)

And the import part, the new OBD port cable, gives you that extra space to allow cable to connect into the Audi OBD port. :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3carsvent18_zps8404527d.jpg)

I disconnected the first wiring harness and reconnected the new wiring harness to the control box.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent19_zps5377114c.jpg)

Time to connect OBD cable
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent20_zps6e283299.jpg)

And Cable perfectly connected into the OBD port :)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent21_zps0771b6df.jpg)

So now time to test out your new P3.cars Digital Vent Gauge.

   I started the Audi and you should see the gauge after a few seconds come to life……… well you can guess that this didn't happen for me, all I got was a blank screen :( (see below image) Now you know earlier I said not to put the vent back into the dashboard - this is why… due to the Gauge in the vent not working, you want to make sure that all cables are connected properly, even cable to the gauge itself, so I had to push the vent out of the dashboard again. Not a big deal, but wanted to explain why I called that out earlier)
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent-22a_zps53f8dd69.jpg)


So onto troubleshooting the issue of Vent Gauge not working.

   1. I checked all cables are properly connected - check, done
   2. I again sent an email to P3.cars (Rick) explaining the situation, Rick replied with-in the hour and provide me with useful steps to check with also a reference to some information on their website.
   
   3. I did check on the P3.cars website support page beforehand, but wanted to hear from P3.cars first, just in case they had additional information to assist - details from P3.cars at - http://www.p3cars.com/vag-install (http://www.p3cars.com/vag-install), you will see details relating to your Audi type, they have a Video and PDF file, as well as configuration and setup data.
   
   Useful information I saw on the webpage, which Rick provided in email to me as well;
   
   Configuring the Gauge
   For version 2.1+ simply hold both buttons to enter the config menu, you can do this at any time! On older versions, to configure your gauge, you must first make sure the gauge is awake. The gauge goes to sleep about 3 seconds after the display blanks out, you can tell this by the double flash of the dot in the corner. After you shut off the engine, but BEFORE the gauge goes to sleep, simply hold the FIRST button until the gauge reads “Conf” , RELEASE the button as soon as you see the word “Conf”. SAVING YOUR SETTINGS: Your settings will not be saved until you exit the config menu by HOLDING the right button until the gauge resets.
   
   4. So with details from Rick and reading from the website, I tried the following;

   With the engine shut off, I pressing both the bottoms on the Gauge and straight away the gauge come up with "Conf" work on display :)
      Using the details from Rick I went through configuration details (details below) and changed TSI option, which interesting come up a not TSI but Car1, Car2, Car3, Car4 on my Gauge, after few emails back and forth with Rick, advised to try Car2 option for my model. Results = still guage not working properly. :(
   
      Config Button Functions:
      Left Button TAP = Change Value
      Left Button HOLD = Change Value fast repeat
      Right Button TAP = Change to next config mode
      Right Button HOLD = EXIT config menu and SAVE settings.
      Default   Values   Fuction
      D.On   On or Off or On.A or On.P   Turn the gauge display ON or OFF or ON-Auto-Dimming(if you have attached the green wire to your dimmer line) or ON-Persistant-Dimmer(for dimmer setting not resetting on restarts.)
      En.Y   Y or N or b   English units? No = Metric, Y = English, b = Boost only (boost in PSI, rest in metric)
      Pr0.1   0.1 or 0.5 or 1.0   Pressure resolution/decimal point. 0.1 = tenths, 0.5 is rounded to 5 tenths, 1.0 = whole numbers only
      U.bg.Y   Y or N   Vacuum bargraph in boost mode – set to N for no bargraph while in vacuum
      SL.57   30 – 80   Shiftlight activation RPM x 100, default is 5700
      Bst.d   d or A or n (beta, C)   Boost reading – digital or analog or none. (analog is for gauges with boost sender and tubing to manifold) Digital is for boost from diag port. C is raw charge pipe pressure from pre-throttle sensor vag data(beta, pre-throttle means no vacuum and subject to higher peaks, not available on all models).
      A1.N   Y or N   Enable or disable the first analog input (brown wire)
      A2.N   Y or N   Enable or disable the second analog input (blue wire)
      Clr.C   None   Hold the first button to clear codes.
      Cal.b   None   Calibrate the analog boost sensor to your ambient conditions. — tap left button after confirming engine is off
      tsi   tsi, fsi (tfsi) or 3.0t, 3.2, TDI   Select engine type – TDI is for diesel Golf and Jetta. TFSI is for 2.0T. 3.0t for S4/S5. 3.2 for boosted TT.
   
   5. So next Rick from P3.cars asked me to reset the control box, now I thought this was a great design idea and would never had known about this if not told, so unplugging the OBD cable from Audi port and then opening up the Control box, you will find a little bottom, which will allow you to reset the box.

   I used a flat screwdriver to open up the control box, which came apart easily. I did disconnect the Gauge cable beforehand.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent22_zps87ea5dab.jpg)

   You can see below in the image the reset bottom at top right hand side, just press this and release.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent-23_zps0736462c.jpg)
      
   Now I connect back the gauge cable and connected the OBD cable back into the Audi port and fired up the car. Waited for 10 seconds and still no display :( I tired the resetting three times as per Rick information, but still no luck. Now at this point I was thinking, before I go back to Rick at P3.cars with more bad news, lets read the configuration details again on the website and go through all the configurations and see if one of those will make the display work.

   
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 20 July 2013, 06:17
So after about 30 minutes of changing settings one by one, I managed to end up with the following configuration and a working Vent Gauge :) (you have no idea how happy I was) After I replied to Rick at P3.cars with my success, he told me that the configuration I had used is for 2005 Golf 1.8T and that they had tested their device on early Audi B6 non Avant. Well the good news is that we both had learnt from this experience and so I hope this helps other Avant or late B6 owners if you buy this product and now P3.cars are aware too.
   
   Configuration required for B6 Audi Avant USP 2005

D. On.a
En. Y
Pr0.1
U.69.y
SL.80
B5t.d
A1.n
A2.n
Car.4
RdC.n
Clr.C
   
   
   So onto the last step now I have a working Gauge, was to clean up the wiring, so it is neatly hidden away inside the dashboard and also route the OBD cable out of the way.
   
   I zip tied the cables together and then placed inside the dashboard. I then zip tied the bundle of cables to part of metal inside the dashboard, to stop the cables from moving around.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent24_zps5ba6e80d.jpg)
   
   
   I also routed the OBD cable down the side of the dashboard underneath so cable was neatly away.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent25_zpsf2c63f27.jpg)
   
   Push the Gauge back into the Dashboard and put the end Dashboard cover back on.
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent26_zps8eecc8cb.jpg)
   
   And the working Gauge with no visual able cables anywhere :) Gauge is showing RPM
   (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/p3cars-vent-working-audi-b6-avant-2005-usp_zpsb1d40d21.jpg)
   
   So now onto Gauge working :) I think I said this before, but will repeat here again, In short this product is just great and the P3Cars Customer Service and support has been just amazing. Rick you really made this experience great, even with issues coming up, so big thank you.
   
   There are so many options on this gauge, plus being able to clear codes is just a real bonus, lucky I had no error codes for me right now. I still have to plug in the Auto-dimmer option and Air ride, but I will be doing that a little later on.
   Configuration and Setup information, I found useful.

P3cars.com gauge is packed with many advanced features, but has been designed to work for your car pretty much right out of the box. There are a few settings that you may wish to change such as English or metric units, or selecting the proper engine model for your car, or setting the trigger RPM of the shift light. Below is a basic description of the gauges different features and modes.

Wiring:

When first installing, connect ONLY the obd2 connector.

GREEN=dimmer BROWN=Analog1 BLUE=Analog2 AUX PLUG=external boost sensor

Main Button Functions

Left Button TAP = Peak recall (and start 15 second record)
Left Button HOLD = 15 sec playback
Right Button TAP = View Current Mode Name (If pressed again within 5 sec, change mode)
Right Button HOLD = Night / Day Dimmer toggled (if auto-dimming is not enabled)

Gauge Modes

Boost: This mode will show vacuum and boost. Depending on settings in the config menu this may be from VAG ecu data or an external analog sensor. Boost is read in PSI by default and Vacuum is inHg. If you configure the gauge to metric boost will be in BAR.

Coolant: This mode will show your current coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.

Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.

Igntn: Actual ignition timing. This mode will show you the ignition timing of your engine in real-time.

Egt: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU.

Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.

rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.

Speed: Actual roadspeed direct from VSS. This is the actual roadspeed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value, therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars.

0-60: Zero to sixty Performance Timer. Come to a stop and this mode will read “Rdy…” The gauge is ready for you to accelerate to 60. As you accelerate the gauge will time you and automatically stop when you hit 60, leaving your time on the screen. When you slow to zero again the gauge will change to “Rdy…”

Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.

Configuring the Gauge
For version 2.1+ simply hold both buttons to enter the config menu, you can do this at any time! On older versions, to configure your gauge, you must first make sure the gauge is awake. The gauge goes to sleep about 3 seconds after the display blanks out, you can tell this by the double flash of the dot in the corner. After you shut off the engine, but BEFORE the gauge goes to sleep, simply hold the FIRST button until the gauge reads “Conf” , RELEASE the button as soon as you see the word “Conf”. SAVING YOUR SETTINGS: Your settings will not be saved until you exit the config menu by HOLDING the right button until the gauge resets.

Config Button Functions:

Left Button TAP = Change Value
Left Button HOLD = Change Value fast repeat
Right Button TAP = Change to next config mode
Right Button HOLD = EXIT config menu and SAVE settings.

Default Values Fuction
D.On On or Off or On.A or On.P Turn the gauge display ON or OFF or ON-Auto-Dimming(if you have attached the green wire to your dimmer line) or ON-Persistant-Dimmer(for dimmer setting not resetting on restarts.)
En.Y Y or N or b English units? No = Metric, Y = English, b = Boost only (boost in PSI, rest in metric)
Pr0.1 0.1 or 0.5 or 1.0 Pressure resolution/decimal point. 0.1 = tenths, 0.5 is rounded to 5 tenths, 1.0 = whole numbers only
U.bg.Y Y or N Vacuum bargraph in boost mode – set to N for no bargraph while in vacuum
SL.57 30 – 80 Shiftlight activation RPM x 100, default is 5700
Bst.d d or A or n (beta, C) Boost reading – digital or analog or none. (analog is for gauges with boost sender and tubing to manifold) Digital is for boost from diag port. C is raw charge pipe pressure from pre-throttle sensor vag data(beta, pre-throttle means no vacuum and subject to higher peaks, not available on all models).
A1.N Y or N Enable or disable the first analog input (brown wire)
A2.N Y or N Enable or disable the second analog input (blue wire)
Clr.C None Hold the first button to clear codes.
Cal.b None Calibrate the analog boost sensor to your ambient conditions. — tap left button after confirming engine is off
tsi tsi, fsi (tfsi) or 3.0t, 3.2, TDI Select engine type – TDI is for diesel Golf and Jetta. TFSI is for 2.0T. 3.0t for S4/S5. 3.2 for boosted TT.


Reading and Clearing Codes

For version 2.1 and higher there is a Clr.C option in the config menu, use this to clear codes!

To read codes, simply start your car. If you have a code, the gauge will read it back to you. If you have multiple codes the gauge will read off all codes. For a definition of codes, please check here.

To clear codes on OLDER versions of the gauge, once again turn the car completely OFF, while the gauge is off, HOLD BOTH BUTTONS, and then start the car. The gauge will say “hold” to confirm that you want to clear you must continue to hold for several seconds and then the gauge will read “CLRD” and the codes will be cleared.

Setting up the Optional Analog Inputs

Your gauge has 3 analog inputs, 2 of which can be used as universal displays for ANY 0-5v sensor. Do not hook up a device that sends more than 5 volts or you WILL damage your gauge.

To enable an analog input, enter the config menu and set the A1 input to Y for yes. After doing this, 3 new options will appear.

A1.DP, analog 1 decimal points. The gauge will show 9999 on the screen, and tapping the first button will move the decimal point. A1.Lo, analog 1 Low volt, or Ov reading, which the gauge will show when it sees ZERO volts on the input. -999 through 9999 A1.Hi, analog 1 High volts, or 5v reading, which the gauge will show when it sees FIVE volts on the input. -999 through 9999 A1.bL and A1.bH, limits of the bargraph for that input. L is the bargraph start, H is the bargraph end.

Simply set the values for the 0v and 5v readings of your attached sensor, as well as the number of decimal points, and the gauge will interpolate anything between 0 and 5v to the proper display.

EXAMPLE CONFIGURATION – LC-1 AFR Controller:
According to the LC-1 wideband controller documentation, Analog output 2 is the 0-5v output. By default it is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR . To configure our gauge to show this on the first analog input, we would use the following settings:

A1.DP, 2 decimal points, 99.99
A1.Lo, 7.35
A1.Hi, 22.39
A1.bL 7.35
A1.bH 22.39

Next update will be on the finished Wheels and tires setup and then I can really show off the Air ride and short video for you all :)

Also in the planning, looking at possible 2.0T or 2.7T or 3.0T conversion, in the middle of researching at the moment, this will be winter plans.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 26 January 2015, 17:37
4 Air ride cables, 4 electrical cables, 1 power cable, 1 remote cable and 2 earth straps and 8 bolts and its out, total of 45 minutes to pull out, all my planning ages ago worked out perfectly.

I have shut off values at each wheel corner, so can keep the air bags filled up without the air ride system and can be manually filled too. Again planning ages ago is working perfectly in this situation.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/remove3_zps53e2a677.jpg)

In the garage again, can now get on with the custom air art...
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/remove4a_zps2824aefc.jpg)

Like it was never in the Audi...
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/remove5_zps13e2208a.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 03 April 2015, 03:41
Well after several weeks the Audi is repaired  :smiley: feels so good to drive the Audi again, one very happy Simon

Audi rings removed from rear, new rings going back on (old ones were faded in areas, so replacing it)
Rear bumper was repaired and painted completely.
New trim installed and painted black.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/rear_zpszxaso7cz.jpg)

Plus I got the Air tanks too, perfect match to the Audi color, now is the fun of putting the art on them and custom sign and get re-installed into the Audi and get car ready for car shows.

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank%201_zpsum3j0xss.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank%202_zpsidbe2s3l.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank%203_zpsj1bfcoyv.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank%204_zpsx9vlhn48.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank%206_zpstkvtvzhw.jpg)

and while I was in the UK recently I got a little carried away with buying RC mini stuff!!! (have to hide this lot, the Mrs will kill me!!) [:D]

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/IMG_87241_zpslzmbjgmh.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 11 April 2015, 04:50
Tanks installed and ready to go back into the Audi this weekend.

I will apply art to the tanks once in the Audi.  :cool:

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/tank-install6a_zpsmtoa9lvd.jpg)
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 October 2015, 07:22
ok, so the air ride is back in the Audi, this weekend I am putting the rims back on it and finish up some wing mods to get lower look.

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/audi-new-air2.jpg)

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/audi-new-air.jpg)

Also brought new toy.... MG A 1962 MKII, needs a little work to it, but overall its perfect British car for this Brit!! More of this little car soon....

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/mg-a-mkii.jpg)

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: xtetx on 28 October 2015, 16:04
love reading these updates man  :smiley:
Avant boot build looks naughty! you have too many cars  :grin: :grin:
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 28 October 2015, 21:59
love reading these updates man  :smiley:
Avant boot build looks naughty! you have too many cars  :grin: :grin:

thanks a lot

You can never have enough cars... and lets not forget about trucks as I have one of those too!  :grin: :grin: LOL

6.5L V8 Turbo Diesel!!!!!!! = a lot of black smoke at

(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k261/madonesi/LED-Bar-install-22.jpg)

Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 April 2016, 04:06
Well weekend was meant to be an easy cleaning day, but after taking my tanks out from my air ride setup to check and do cleaning of pipes underneath tanks and do general check of everything, I noticed something not right with one of my tanks.

Tanks out, 4 nuts and 4 air lines to disconnect and out they both come!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/20D28C8E-BC58-4CDD-9E8C-5812051FFEEE_zpszxfvzlza.jpg)

Closer look at tank

Paint is bubbled up at end of tank, about 5'' x 1'' in size
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/72AC241F-38E9-44A2-9E51-5352A5FEFF93_zpstjdi8hfi.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/D5324B19-1284-4024-A985-59EDE3F44A77_zpsncky8dny.jpg)

So worried I pulled the paint off
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/4AD739AC-FA87-4400-96A4-A0AE31F58AC0_zpsf7xktey4.jpg)

Closer look and there is one spot that has raised up metal with white around it
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/2B830B17-59E7-46BC-AA61-BC3B6742D743_zpsouu4qrcc.jpg)

Then I found a second bubble, this one is tiny, again pulled the paint and same on this, metal raised up
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/Audi_B6/6A4B33EB-AB03-4F90-85BC-2FBA550A8A88_zpsuospucs0.jpg)

I will be taking the tanks back to the company this week who painted them for me, weirdly 1 year ago this week...

So much for simple cleaning day!
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 27 April 2016, 04:08
was asked about MG, so here is better pic for you all

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/britinusa_74/MGA%20-%20April%202016/MGA1111_zpsq60b3jt5.jpg)

1962 MGA, full restore in 2002, total mileage as of this weekend 00779, yep 5 miles a month only over the last 14 years, very, very long story on why but such an awesome car.
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 08 November 2019, 17:41
well the Audi sold a while ago, but RS6 2020 ordered.... already speaking to companies on mods for USA, seeing as Europe has had this model for while now. Anyone know of someone with RS6 in UK I can chat too on mods they have done?
Title: Re: madone_si - A4 Avant 1.8T RED Quattro
Post by: Madone_si on 03 April 2021, 19:51
my old Audi is back up for sale by person who bought it from me! Going to be interesting to see what this sells for.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-audi-a4-16