Actions arrising from first track day

[Horney]

Hate you! I'm getting bad withdrawal symptoms, I actually keep dreaming about being on track and waking up dissapointed. I haven't even driven the car in about 2 months. Can't wait till next week when it gets some new boots and I can actually take it out for a blast to No-Rice and back.

Don't go hating me too much.

This is the last month before I have a new mortgage.

2010 looks pretty f*cking bleak and track day-less from where I'm standing.

Rubbish isn't it. I'm 99% sure I'll get out on the Goodward day with the 928 lot as long as Richard decides it's going to happen. After that I'm into the period when I'll lose my job so it could well be my one and only trackday for 2010.

Nick

[VeeDubGTI16v]

i dont get oil surge but the sump has baffles welded into it, i do get fuel surge going down paddock hill bend though if the tank is under 1/2 full, so have to keep it topped up!

thats not a bad idea on your brake lines dh, i know someone with a similar setup on a fwd and he has to run 2 bias valves to get the right bias

[Diamond Hell]

thats not a bad idea on your brake lines dh, i know someone with a similar setup on a fwd and he has to run 2 bias valves to get the right bias

I had to ask a lot of questions on a lot of forums before StephCassCar just happened to swing by Bristol for a cuppa and we talked through how best to do it.

Seems to work well enough for me.  Obviously the big risk is (where the MC has two 'compartments') if one front brake goes, so does the other.

I'd like to think on a track car, which gets *quite* a lot of love and attention this is a pretty unlikely situation!

I've run the rear line through the firewall and down the side of the tunnel, inside the car.  It then goes to the bias valve, which is mounted on the rear seat base, through the boot floor and tees to the rear calipers on top of the rear subframe - bit different from the boot floor onwards to what you'd do on a 2WD.

Remember for an MOT it should not be possible to reach the bias valve from the driver's seat.

[VeeDubGTI16v]

another thought, like on nicks where the spring has been removed you could wedge the valve open and secure it in different positions and adjust the bias like that. not quite as easy as on your setup but it would be free lol

you dont need an active bias valve on the rear beam when theres not much suspension movement tbh

[Paul86S2]

The second is the brakes.  They worked fine for the entire day, pulling up nice and straight but I was constantly locking up the unloaded rear wheel, I even locked up both rears at one point and gave myself a small wiggle!  The fronts never even hinted that they were thinking about locking and continued to work throughout the day.  The rears had new callipers, GSF, OEM disks, local auto factors, and Frodo up-rated pads, local auto factors.  The fronts had late 16v hubs, spacers and callipers fitted with Brembo grooved disks, GSF, and GSF normal pads.

Try putting on standard rear pads instead of the uprated ones, and put uprated ones on the front, this will hopefully add some bias to the front and remove some from the rear.

The pedal had quite a long travel but it was progressive.

This can quite often happen with standard front pads when they get hot, or you still have some air in your system.

Is this and oil surge issue and would fitting a windage tray solve it?  I have a new oil pump to fit, time ran out during prep, and am happy to get a windage tray and fit everything at the same time, but don’t want to spend on this engine if it is shagged.

Don't think your engine is shagged, I would fit the windage tray first and see what happens, if the problem persists then think about baffling your sump, or go the whole hog and do both.

Glad you had a good day, its very addictive isn't it.

Paul

[JonLeeper]

windage tray is more to keep the oil away from the crank, you need a baffled sump! i have templates somewhere ill try and dig out for you, then its a case of cutting them out of steel and welding them in. you might as well put a windage tray in there at the same time though

if you cant be arsed welding plates into the sump, schrick do a baffled sump, but it costs a fair bit

the brakes sound like the rear bias valve on the rear beam needs tweaking. i cant remember what way you stretch the spring, but im sure someone else can advise

The templates for the baffles would be great, it makes sence to do it when I have to drop the sump off, it can only help.  I will also fit a windage tray so that should, hopefully, fix the problem.

[JonLeeper]

We're you driving the GP circuit, or the Indy?

We were on the Indy circuit.   Not that long but challenging enough and great for me, as a beginner, to try and string a few corners together in the afternoon.

Can't remember from your build thread if you replaced the master cylinder?  That might be the cause of your long pedal travel, if not.

Mew has told me that he replaced the master cylinder when he owned the car.  I cannot think that someone would replace it back with the smaller item but I will check.  Do they look any different from the outside or will I have to remove it to find out?

I've re-plumbed my braking system, so two of the ports from the M/C go to one each of the front brakes and there is a single line going backwards, which has a bias valve in it (screw type).

I did it because I was rebuilding the rear axle, so I had to re-plumb the entire back end anyway.

It took a bit of tweaking to turn the rears down enough, but I'm pleased with how it's worked out.

I know some of the 2WD guys struggle to reduce their rear braking on a bias valve enough - GTIs really don't need much rear-wheel braking it would seem

Jon, if you do think about fitting a bias valve, bear in mind you're re-plumbing the whole car.

I don't mind replumbing the car, it is my track project so, as long as the greatest expense is my time, anything goes.  I was thinking tht if I needed to fit a new balance bar I would investigate fitting two master cylinders and a bias bar at the pedal.  Malcolm has just done this on a standard MX5 pedal box with a short length of tube, a Dremel and a bit of patience.  It would only cost me the price of an additional cylinder and a bias bar.

Interested to know if Mark gets oil-surge at Brands - I'll be finding out if I do on Thursday.

Please let me know, I hope it is not just me!

[Diamond Hell]

It's just you.

Danny and I didn't manage to conjure up any smoke at Brands and my Golf doesn't have a baffled sump, or windage tray.

Clearly this is because we both drive like big ladies in a very slow car.

[JC]

/\ /\ /\ 

[JonLeeper]

It's just you.

Danny and I didn't manage to conjure up any smoke at Brands and my Golf doesn't have a baffled sump, or windage tray.

Clearly this is because we both drive like big ladies in a very slow car.

If you wern't going faster than 110 MPH indicated then yes you are a big girls blouse!