Polish and Pad combo question

[Sootchucker]

Hi all (Rebecca  )

I've had a DA now for about 3 years (a DAS 6) and never really used it properly, or should I say, never really got the results I was expecting. Now this may be because my usage of the machine is suspect, or down to the pad / polish combo I have. I basically have some generic blue and yellow foam pads which I have used with Megs ultimate compound or AF Tripple.

On cleaning the GTD yesterday, on which the paintwork is in fairly good condition, I did notice in the winter sunshine a fair few minor scratches and cobwebbing, which I would like to get sorted in the spring when the weather warms up.  Can someone with polishing experience tell me what the best polish / combo for the VW paint (mines a MK7 GTD in Pure white). I'm quite happy with my LSP, just want to get my paint corrected first. Also, a bit of an overview of the best methods of correcting the paintwork, as it may be I'm not working the polish enough and letting it break down, but I find the pad can slow down quite a bit if I put too much pressure on the DA ?

I thought I'd ask here rather than over on detailing  world, as we are all VW owners and so know the paintwork better perhaps.

Many thanks.

[Wo-Wo]

Hex Logic Pads

Orange (Heavy - Medium)
White (Medium-Light)
Black (Finishing)

http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Hex_Logic_Buffing_Pads_s/51.htm

Dodo Juice Lime Prime

http://www.dodojuice.com/lime-prime-pre-wax-cleanser.html

Meguairs 205 & 105

Various websites and couldn't find the specific Megs link

This is a really basic set up but has always served me well in the past.

Does your DA have a pressure marking on the backing plate? If not it might be worth investing in one that does.

Thanks

Neil

[Booth11]

Hello Sootchucker, I'm not the only detailing sad do nerd you know  (sorry Neil and any other detailing members),

My usual basic set up is similar to Neil's, using the same Hexlogiv pads but with Poorboys SSR poilshes:

Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/chemical-guys-hexlogic-pads/cat_82.html

Orange - heavy-medium cutting
White - medium-light cutting
Black - refining/ finishing

I also have used and rate Meguiars pads:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/meguiars-buffing-pads/cat_23.html

Red - heavy-medium cutting
Yellow - medium-light cutting
Black - refining/finishing

There are myriad Hex pads but you should only really need 3 above though there's the green pad when a heavier cut foam is required, so it all depends on the level of swirling and marring. I would start with the black pads first and step up if required.

Poorboys polishes:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?searchStr=Poorboys+ssr&_a=viewCat&Submit=

SSR1 - very light swirls
SSR2 / 2.5 medium swirls
SSR 3 - heavy correction.  I've never needed this one.

However I'm just about to try out the Meguiars Microfibres Correction System as as well as good for swirl/marring correction it helps to reduce factory orange peel effect which is more noticeable on black cars.  It's a very simple streamlined system.  I spoke about it in detail in this thread recently:

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=276899.msg2530327#msg2530327

On a general polishing note, the rule of thumb is to start with the least abrasive polish and pad combination and step up from there as required by the severity of the swirls.  Choose your polish first used on the least abrasive pad and if not getting required result, try next polish up on the same pad. Then if required, step up to a heavier pad.  And step down when refining.

A garage or workshop is preferable especially one with a good light source so you can regularly check your progress.  If you do it outside (I do), the light needs to be good and you're at the mercy of the weather.  If doing it outside and over more than a day, Definitely garage the car overnight. 

I'm by no means an expert but here's a few tips:

•   Assess the condition of the paintwork first in good light, so you know what is required
•   Prepare the paintwork prior to polishing - tar remover, iron remover, claying etc, to ensure it's free of all bonded contaminants.
•   Tape up all trim.
•   Take it slowly and split larger panels up into manageable areas. 
•   Start with the least abrasive pad and polish combo and step up as necessary.  Choose your polish first. Then the lease abrasive pad, if more cut is required step up to the next pad. If a more abrasive polish is required use that again starting with the least abrasive pad.....and so on.
•   Start with the correction/swirl remova polishing stage first using a cutting pad then follow with the refining stage using a finishing pad.
•   Use moderate pressure - too light and it will have little effect, too much and you will fry your backing plate screw thread.
•   Use mid speed - as too low a speed won't achieve anything.
•   Always sling the DA cable over your shoulder otherwise it can drag/trail across the paintwork causing marks (just as you are trying to get rid of them!).
•   Stop and inspect at regular intervals to see how you are progressing and what further is required.
•   Use a good LED light source to check for swirls close up.
•   Once you've primed the pad with polish make sure you place it on the paintwork before switching on    DA, otherwise the polish will fling off everywhere.
•   You might need to do several passes to achieve the required correction.
•   After polishing use a good IPA like Gtechniq Panel Wipe to remove polish residue before going on to seal/wax the car.

Hope this helps. 

[Seanl]

If you're not sure how to get the best results from your DA too, sign up on Detailing world.  There is a specific and very well written guide for both DA and Rotary polishing. 

[Sootchucker]

Thanks a lot all, and especially Rebecca for the very detailed response.