First detail - Deep Black Pearl Mk7 GTI - Products and Process

[golfguyuk]

So I just wanted to post some pictures of my first detail since I picked up my Deep Black Pearl GTI last month.  Had to wait a whole month to do this because of the UK weather!

I've mainly followed the advice on this site so thanks to all the members like Rebecca for their guides.

If you have any comments about products I used or how I did it then let me know. Always looking to learn a bit more along the way!



Products bought for the detail
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Wheel Products
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Halfords Wash Brush - for wheels
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/sponges-brushes-buckets/halfords-wash-brush

BMW Wheel cleaning gel - made sure it was acid free

Halfords Microfibre Cloths 5 pack - for removing collinite 845 from wheels.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/sponges-brushes-buckets/halfords-microfibre-cloths-5-pack

Halfords Soft Polishing Cloths x 4 - for removing Collinite 845 from bodywork
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/sponges-brushes-buckets/halfords-soft-polishing-cloths-x-4

BMW Tyre shine spray



Car Wash
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Meguiars Luxurious Lambs Wool Wash Mitt
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-Luxurious-Lambs-Wool-Wash/dp/B001MPW5IC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo without conditioner - PH neutral
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Autoglym-Bodywork-Shampoo-500ml/dp/B00TFTHOWO?ie=UTF8&keywords=autoglym%20bodywork%20shampoo&qid=1460754691&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

BMW car shampoo - made sure it was PH neutral

Kent Q6100 Extra Large Microfibre Drying Towel
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kent-Q6100-Extra-Microfibre-Drying/dp/B0030B9U6Q?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00



Contaminants and Sealant
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Bilt Hamber Auto Clay Bar Regular 200g - used a quarter of it.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Auto-Clay-Regular/dp/B002OHSGHQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, 473 ml
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Collinite-845-Insulator-Wax-473/dp/B000JK2D06?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Meguiar's Even Coat Applicator Pads
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-Even-Coat-Applicator-Pads/dp/B017TE2RSW/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1460754799&sr=1-3&keywords=meguiars+pads





Process
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Started with a full rinse using a Karcher pressure spray.

Sprayed the wheels with the BMW gel cleaner and left for five minutes.  Used the Halfords brush to clean the wheels.

Not bought a snowfoam yet because it seemed unecssary for my first detail but I will consider it down the line.

Used the two bucket method to wash entire car.

Left the car wet and brought it out of direct sunlight and began to clay. Clay bar was initially too cold and hard to use until I learnt to dip it into boiling water and then knead a few times.  For the lubricant I used a small amount of bathroom hand wash mixed with water in a B&Q sprayer.

Used two bucket method to wash entire car again (why not?? first time )

Then used the large drying towel to go over entire car to dry it off.

Then started to use the Collinite 845 on the paintwork.  Read on internet - thin thin thin, so I done that but I dIdn't understand how the hazing thing worked so I think I buffed it off far too early.   Also might have applied it a bit too thin initially.

Decided to try another thicker coat of collinite 845 leaving a noticable smear all over the car, on paint, winows and wheels.  Left it for about 30 minutes and then performed the swipe test.  Then buffed off!  A lot shinier this time.  See the pics below!  sorry for crappy iphone pics, although a week later it still looks pretty shiny and I am tempted to get the DSLR out for some more photos! 

Up close I think the Collinite 845 sealant brings out the shiny elements in the paintwork.  Real depth to it!  If I look really closely I can see micro scratces which I know some were there before I got the car and some where done by me, but this doesn't bother me as they are hardly visible and I am not prepared to get into the polishing route yet!  OVerall I am very happy!  Thanks everyone!



Lessons Learnt
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Maybe use TAR remover and Iron X on car before claying as it is probably still covered in contaminants.

Soak the Clay in boiling water to allow it to be kneaded.  I found it virtually impossible to use when it was straight out the tub no matter how much I kneaded. Think I scratched the bodywork with the cold clay!

I won't use Collinite 845 on front windscreen in future.  Although it is useful going at 70mph without using wipers as the air blows away the rain, going at 40mph and having to use the wipers makes the windscreen temporarily cloudy!



Questions for you guys
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How do I now perform one of the maintenance washes without stripping off the collinite from the paint or wheels?  Can i use the Autoglym shampoo and the Meguirs wash mitt?

Can I carry out a maintenance wash and then apply collinite without claying the car at all since the first time I did it?

Can I use the jet washes (water only) at the garage forecourts if I maintain a distance wihtout it stripping the collinite?




and Pictures...
---------------

[Booth11]

Questions for you guys
----------------------

How do I now perform one of the maintenance washes without stripping off the collinite from the paint or wheels?  Can i use the Autoglym shampoo and the Meguirs wash mitt?

Can I carry out a maintenance wash and then apply collinite without claying the car at all since the first time I did it?

Can I use the jet washes (water only) at the garage forecourts if I maintain a distance wihtout it stripping the collinite?

Firstly - what a fantastic job. Your car looks absolutely stunning - great shine and reflections    Great work and a brilliant first detail, and nice write up.

To answer your questions:

Q. How do I now perform one of the maintenance washes without stripping off the collinite from the paint or wheels?  Can i use the Autoglym shampoo and the Meguirs wash mitt?

A. A normal 2 bucket wash with your chosen shampoo and Meguiars mitt won't strip wax provided you use the shampoo at the correct dilution.  Too concentrated a solution may strip wax.  So follow the manufacturers guidelines for your particular shampoo and it will be fine. Of course all wax has a finite life so over time (weeks/months) the wax coating will naturally diminish and will need reapplying at the appropriate time.

Q. Can I carry out a maintenance wash and then apply collinite without claying the car at all since the first time I did it?

A. Yes you can wax the car as many times as you like after each wash. Claying or any decontamination is best only done a few (say twice) a year, or when really required.  Wax can be applied at any time, always to a very clean, just washed car of course.  But the Collinite 845 should last a few months before needing redoing, though you may wish to get a second coat on quite soon after the first.  Any more than two coats is probably a waste of time as there is little benefit to applying too many coats.

Q. Can I use the jet washes (water only) at the garage forecourts if I maintain a distance wihtout it stripping the collimate?

A. Safe jet washing will not remove wax.  Always jet wash safely by using the lance at a 45 degree angle and not 90 degrees which could force dirt and grit on the surface into the paintwork.  Keep a reasonable distance from the car but not too far. 

The things that will strip wax are concentrated shampoo solution; claying or most decontamination products such as iron remover and tar remover; IPA or Panel Wipe.  But normal jet washing and normal shampooing are safe.  Obviously over time the wax will diminish and the more frequently you wash your car the quicker this will happen but you should see a reasonable lifespan with Collinite 845.

More general points I would make, many of which you have already learned and mentioned are:

Never wax your front windscreen.  Ok to wax all other external glass but not the front windscreen.  As well as the clouding you are experiencing, it may well cause your wipers to skip or judder over the wax.  I would use something (as suggested above) to remove the wax from the windscreen.  There are specific products you can use on a windscreen but often better to leave it free from products.

Applying wax - it is best to apply a thinnish layer but of course it mustn't be so thin that it's not enough.  The best way to judge hazing (and it's dependant on the wax) is it lightly clouding over but not drying.  Never let wax dry.  When you run your finger over it, your finger should 'just' catch - then it's time to buff it off.  If you apply it too thickly you will get smearing and find it difficult to buff off completely.  If it is very sunny, shorten the time the wax if left on the car.  Preferable is to wax out of direct sunlight.

Claying and decontamination - full decontamination is made up of 3 elements - de-iron phase; de-tar phase and claying. Claying should be the final step after the others as this is the most risky step in terms of contact with the paintwork and potential to cause marring and scratching (not uncommon with claying).  Because of this, it's always best to use an iron/fallout remover first, followed by a tar/glue remover. first.  Depending on how contaminated the paintwork is, these two stages are sometimes sufficient to remove if not all, then most of the embedded decontaminants.  And quite often, especially on a new car, claying may not be required at all at the first detail.  The aim is to remove as many contaminants with the 'wet' stages, i.e, tar remover and iron remover which only have minimal 'touch' involvement meaning less risk of marking the paintwork. Claying, by it's very nature of pulling something back and forth over the paintwork is higher risk because of the amount of contact with the paint. That's why many, myself included, will only clay if following up with a machine or hand polish which gets rid of any marring inflicted by the clay.

One way to tell if you've got rid of contaminants and see how clear the paintwork is after using tar and iron remover (and claying stage), is to to the 'sandwich bag' test. Get a plastic sandwich bag and slip your hand into it like a mitt, then simply run your palm over areas of the paintwork, and it will emphasise anything still embedded into the paintwork. The glassier and smoother the paintwork feels, the better, and the least contiminants are remaining. You can do this prior to decontamination too, to see how much contaminant is on the paintwork, then do it after decontamination to feel the difference. If done following the de-tar and de-iron phases you will be able to tell if claying is really needed.  Something to think about for next time you do a full detail (Autumn maybe).

You have discovered the best way to soften clay in colder weather - to soften in hot water as you have done.  A clay mitt is more user friendly and they don't harden in the way that clay bars do. Much easier to use especially for anyone new to claying.  The other key to successful claying is lubrication of both the paintwork and the clay.  Always well lubricate and if at any point the clay feels like it's 'dragging' that's a sign there's not enough lube.

But all that aside, it's a very impressive job and you should be well pleased with yourself. 

And finally.......my favourite shot....Awesome!

[kalimon]

Great job with the detailing including some unusual products ( bathroom handwash ). Love a bit of improvisation
Artsy black and white shots as well , even Rebecca doesn't do that!
Car looks fantastic!!
ps
You need to get a snow foam lance asap, especially having a black car http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/index.php/exterior-cleaning/snow-foam/autobrite-heavy-duty-foam-snow-foam-lance-magifoam-500ml.html
Thats a bargain as I paid £40 for this same lance a few weeks ago

[KyleB]

Looks lovely mate. Need to spend some time decontaminating mine ready for the summer.

[Wo-Wo]

Looks fantastic! Great job.

[golfguyuk]

Thanks for the comments everyone and thanks for the tips Rebecca.

Been a bit busy so still haven't got round to performing the maintenance wash!

Got the tip of using hand wash to replace quick retailer for flaying because apparently it doesn't have degreaser like a car shampoo! Degreasers do something to the clay bars.  Don't know if it worked but the car slept lovely 

[Booth11]

Thanks for the comments everyone and thanks for the tips Rebecca.

Been a bit busy so still haven't got round to performing the maintenance wash!

Got the tip of using hand wash to replace quick retailer for flaying because apparently it doesn't have degreaser like a car shampoo! Degreasers do something to the clay bars.  Don't know if it worked but the car slept lovely 

I love how auto correct changes ' claying' to 'flaying'  does that on my device every time too. I'm always sure to check it carefully - otherwise people might think I'm suggesting something. 

I use dedicated clay lube - DoDo Juice Born Slippy, but I know others who use car shampoo as a lube with no complaints.     Handwash sounds a good solution though (pardon the pun!) if you are having problems with shampoo.

[KyleB]

Snow foam also makes goof clay lube, just need water then. Although saying that, I use a mitt, don't know how it'd work with a bar.