What have you done to your MK 7 today ?

[tictap]

Hi tictap - I've had a look on ebay and can't see the one I bought but I think I paid about £20 or so. It is very expensive but it really does help! What are you wanting to do, one door or more? I'll have a look at mine to see how much I used and if there is plenty left perhaps we can sort something out between us?

Thanks Watts, yeah only the one door to do.

How about this then, I'll post you my (whatever it's called, I keep forgetting ) at my cost, you do your door and make a reasonable donation to the current forum charity and post it back to me at your cost. Sound like a plan? You need to use so little to do a door that the small bottle will last a fair while, I've done both mine already. Let me know.

Wow that's very generous of you thanks very much, i'll pm you my address.

[jv]

That's how to do it - cracking work Watts and tictap

[I wanted a GTi]

Also changed the CRD3 to setting 3 with no lights.

Only time will tell if I have anymore issues.

How are you finding it compared to program 1?

[kalimon]

That's how to do it - cracking work Watts and tictap

I second that : )

[Mr GTD]

Also changed the CRD3 to setting 3 with no lights.

Only time will tell if I have anymore issues.

How are you finding it compared to program 1?

Haven't been out in it much but the short journey I did I found there to be much  more "get up and go."

I thought it being on setting 3 and up would be totally unusable but its actually the total opposite.

So far so good. 

[Andrew@DTUK]

^^^

I sort of want to try that setting but am now a bit worried due to my little blip on setting 1+2...

Hmmmmm!!! is it really worth the risk..? probably not.

hi, if you've been running the CRD3+ on programme 1 plus 2 and the pedalbox on sport +2 then its simply being over cooked.

Not sure when you bought the box but weve recently started adding stickers to the module, as customers weren't contacting us before making any adjustments to the module, which is stated on the first page of the instructions. The majority of them are ignoring the stickers too and simply whacking the module up to +3 and wondering why theyre seeing a light.

If you read the information below this will explain things, and my advice is to run the box on its own first, find a setting youre happy with and then, and only then add the pedal box. Again as the pedal box is increasing and adjusting the boost/fuel too then if this is set too high it can cause engine management lights.

The sticker is on the module as 99% of men don't read instructions and simply turn the box onto maximum and then wonder why they have seen an engine light. This usually results in us being slated on social media hence why we've added the stickers asking customers to contact us before making any adjustments to the system

We can then explain the correct procedure and if you then decide to ignore our advice and subsequently see an engine light or experience issues, it's gives us a little recourse.

No disrespect to yourself but I'm a bloke and I never read anything but we're hoping that customers will see the stickers and contact us, so thank you

The module itself needs power, so adjustments must be made with the ignition in the first position or with the engine running.

The box will flash the LED Lights 99% of the time - this means the box is in lock down mode and can’t be adjusted but the flashing lights indicate the Program and fine adjustment that has been selected. Once the box is unlocked by holding the plus and minus buttons down the LED lights will then go solid, this means you can adjust the system.
After several seconds of inactivity on the keypad the system will lock automatically. If in doubt at any time please read the instructions provided with the kit or get in touch.

There are 3 files on the box and 99% of the time the end result is the same overall power, the difference is how the power is delivered. Our advice is to try all 3 programmes/files/maps on zero first and you should then feel subtle differences between the 3 files.

Using the + button adds a touch more power, so from zero we would then suggest moving to +1 and then again comparing the differences.

Why haven't we mentioned +2 and +3, most files are optimised on the zero setting, but due to the differences found in sensor tolerances some cars respond better on +1. Anything higher may result in an engine management light, but there again may not. It is purely down to sensor tolerances, and in some cases fuel quality and ambient air temps can effect things.

Whatever you do please ignore anything you may of read online regarding the "best setting", intact even if you have 2 identical cars in the household please treat each vehicle as a unique item and don't simply assume that the setting you're using in one car, is the best for the other

All we want is for customers to be able to enjoy our product, but to also realise that their car is as unique as them, and in essence some trial and error is required to set up the system to best suit your car, and more importantly your driving style.

If you do see an engine light, don't worry this is your engine that you're being "greedy" and if the system is turned down the light will either go out straight away, or after a certain number of full ecu power downs.

We're here to help virtually 24/7 so if you have any problems or further questions please don't hesitate to contact us, thats what we’re here for If you'd prefer to have a chat, then simply reply to this email and include your phone number and well try and give you a call.

Thanks for emailing and hope you understand why it's a small yet important part of getting the best from your purchase

[Andrew@DTUK]

Seriously though I tried program 1 and +3 and didn't like it nearly as much. Drove the car for less than 2 miles through town in traffic and on my first roundabout leaving the speed limit I floored it in second, then into third and straight away it was like I put the brakes on and......



Pulled over and took the photo and turned the car off and started it again and all was fine but before I moved off I changed the box back to program 3+ and I think that is too much so I'm going to move it back to just program 3 where it was happy for serveral hundred miles.

setting the box to + 3 is the issues, its over boosting as the box is set too high.

this should help..

The sticker is on the module as 99% of men don't read instructions and simply turn the box onto maximum and then wonder why they have seen an engine light. This usually results in us being slated on social media hence why we've added the stickers asking customers to contact us before making any adjustments to the system

We can then explain the correct procedure and if you then decide to ignore our advice and subsequently see an engine light or experience issues, it's gives us a little recourse.

No disrespect to yourself but I'm a bloke and I never read anything but we're hoping that customers will see the stickers and contact us, so thank you

The module itself needs power, so adjustments must be made with the ignition in the first position or with the engine running.

The box will flash the LED Lights 99% of the time - this means the box is in lock down mode and can’t be adjusted but the flashing lights indicate the Program and fine adjustment that has been selected. Once the box is unlocked by holding the plus and minus buttons down the LED lights will then go solid, this means you can adjust the system.
After several seconds of inactivity on the keypad the system will lock automatically. If in doubt at any time please read the instructions provided with the kit or get in touch.

There are 3 files on the box and 99% of the time the end result is the same overall power, the difference is how the power is delivered. Our advice is to try all 3 programmes/files/maps on zero first and you should then feel subtle differences between the 3 files.

Using the + button adds a touch more power, so from zero we would then suggest moving to +1 and then again comparing the differences.

Why haven't we mentioned +2 and +3, most files are optimised on the zero setting, but due to the differences found in sensor tolerances some cars respond better on +1. Anything higher may result in an engine management light, but there again may not. It is purely down to sensor tolerances, and in some cases fuel quality and ambient air temps can effect things.

Whatever you do please ignore anything you may of read online regarding the "best setting", intact even if you have 2 identical cars in the household please treat each vehicle as a unique item and don't simply assume that the setting you're using in one car, is the best for the other

All we want is for customers to be able to enjoy our product, but to also realise that their car is as unique as them, and in essence some trial and error is required to set up the system to best suit your car, and more importantly your driving style.

If you do see an engine light, don't worry this is your engine that you're being "greedy" and if the system is turned down the light will either go out straight away, or after a certain number of full ecu power downs.

We're here to help virtually 24/7 so if you have any problems or further questions please don't hesitate to contact us, thats what we’re here for If you'd prefer to have a chat, then simply reply to this email and include your phone number and well try and give you a call.

Thanks for emailing and hope you understand why it's a small yet important part of getting the best from your purchase

[Andrew@DTUK]

That's the thing with CRD3 + Pedal Box you never need to "floor it". I myself have never done this as it's just not necessary.

When I say floored it I don't mean pedal to the floor(yes I know it sounds strange ) and I have found that if you are on a motorway say in 6th @ around 70-80 and you do push the pedal to the floor and as soon as the boost is in then slowly lift your foot you will feel the car surge more as you get to the 3/4 pedal travel point.

Do you mean surge as in the power is erratic or surge as in vigorous acceleration?

Sorry, surge as in acceleration. To me it feels like I loose power if I put my foot to the floor. I find the CRD3+ box to be very smooth.

I think a lot of people don't get the best out of their Diesels is because they try and drive them like a petrol engine.
Part of my job is trying to get professional drivers to drive more professionally which means in commercial terms getting them to use less fuel by not driving like Neanderthals, and using anticipation rather than just watching the arse end of the vehicle in front.
The downside of this is also one of the upsides: technology.
The spy in the cab software penalises them for using foot to the floor driving which it deems as inefficient, which is fair enough, but it is also flawed in that it wants you to use cruise control as often as possible as that fools the system into thinking it's being more fuel efficient, the vehicle ECU software likes to think it knows better than a person, which unfortunately only works in lab conditions or on a steady cruise. A bit like DSG in auto mode, it's ok for what it can do but there's no substitute for a pair of trained eyes and ears than can anticipate traffic flow, road camber on bends, corner entry speeds etc.

If you're used to driving a petrol engine there's no denying it's more fun on the days you're going at it hell for leather using the full revs.
But for the rest of the time?
Diesels run at 100% airflow unlike a petrol that has a metered mix that constantly adjusts the air volume as well the the fuel (hence being called a throttle as that's what it does).
Back in the early days of TDI's I was bored of the wet lettuce hot hatch offerings of VW and my VR6's were ok but a bit flat in the all important mid-range. So before the low pressure turbo 1.8t GTI's arrived on scene I decided to have a play with TDI's which were all the rage in Europe at the time but not very popular in the UK until the early noughties apart from Peugeots which seemed to have got the right recipe at the time.

Having come from a background of pre turbo GTI's I was used to tuning involving improving gas flow, changing cam profiles and increasing the capacity of the engine.
When I moved to Diesels first of all it was a bit of a culture shock so I did a lot of research. I spoke to Van Aaken who were at the forefront of Diesel tuning at the time and then experimented with a few things myself.
I learnt that the equivalent car to the modern Golf GTD at the time was the Peugeot 306 90bhp Diesel that could instantly get 20% more power just by winding up the fuel pump. This was a very popular mod on the continent where Diesels were a lot more prolific and once the new wave of direct injection Diesels hit the market the equivalent but dearer alternative to this mod was the Tuning Box.
So I bought my first tuning box as I was curious to see what it was all about.
Just like the old Peugeot 1.9TD tuning it worked by making the most of the fact the Diesel engine runs at 100% 'throttle' airflow (as it has no throttle) so just needs to throw in extra fuel to make more power. That's why tuning boxes have a crude reputation, all the tuners had to do was throw in extra fuel until it got to the point where excess smoke was made (this being unburnt fuel) then wind it back to the point where EGT's stayed at a safe level and it didn't smoke excessively. Hey presto - 10 to 20% more power instantly.
There was no direct means of upping the turbo boost and there didn't really need to be, the turbo boost was increased by the fact the exhaust gas flow was higher due to the extra combustion so the turbo worked harder and increased boost that way.
The cheap and nasty end of the market tuning boxes just tricked the engine into thinking it was in warm up cycle constantly so the engine continued to overfuel which meant it produced more power.

Nowadays there's lots of emissions gear on Diesels so tuning boxes, or at least the better ones, have to be a bit more sophisticated. But underneath all of that they still basically work the same in that they just throw in extra fuel to up the power under load as they don't have to worry about ignition timing and incoming air flow like tuning a petrol engine.
The reason these cars go into limp mode is that they're overfuelling at a level that the ECU isn't happy with, quite possibly it could be exhaust gas temps or any number of other sensors detecting something being different to what it is expecting. These sensors are mass produced so some will be more sensitive than others and Andrew from DTUK will be quick to tell you some cars will suffer problems and others will be ok.
This is why I was asking if you meant it had become a bit jerky which would likely be excessive overfuelling.

The surge you describe is the turbo building boost rapidly which is what gives tuned Diesels their unique charm. Once you hit the carpet with the accelerator pedal the turbo is pretty maxed out so it has stopped building boost and has hit its ceiling of efficiency.
I've always found that despite modern Diesels being able to rev almost like a petrol engine that they perform best at less than foot to the floor driving, but rather using the massive torque put out as the turbo goes up through its sweet spot of boosting.
Once your foot is buried into the carpet the turbo is already doing all it can so I think (just guessing here) it leans off the fuelling a bit and hence doesn't feel like a petrol turbo car does when you max out the throttle. Mind you an awful lot of modern petrol cars feel incredibly flat unless they're tuned so they can meet emissions regs. Thankfully Diesel engines still have a bit of turbo surge and give you that characteristic kick in the back under part load which is their forte.

Apologies to those that have a better understanding of it all than I do or anyone I've bored to death but that's just my understanding of the situation reported and why tuning boxes can give issues.

The surge I'm talking about it is only there with the pedal box turned on.

as Exonian has mentioned the the crd3+ itself will be affecting throttle response on its own, once the pedal box is added then this is going to be doing the same thing.

if the pedalbox is used in conjunction with the box, then my advice is to always set the box (CRDT/3+) up first and then go through the various settings on the pedalbox including the minus settings (that still improve response) as if the the pedalbox is set too high then you will see an engine light, and you may also find that you have to use a lower settings on the pedal box, than if it was used on its own..

i hope that makes sense
 

[Andrew@DTUK]

Also changed the CRD3 to setting 3 with no lights.

Only time will tell if I have anymore issues.

How are you finding it compared to program 1?

Haven't been out in it much but the short journey I did I found there to be much  more "get up and go."

I thought it being on setting 3 and up would be totally unusable but its actually the total opposite.

So far so good. 

programme is based on a file from Germany, and on plus 1 this produced 236.6hp and 377lbft, map 2 is one of our own and even though we don't recommend a "best setting", a lot of customers prefer this and map 3 over map 1.

Map 2 incidentally produced 234.5hp and 377lbft, and if i showed you the data it looks completely different.

Map 3 is based on map 2 but the reaction time on the box is slightly different, and the power band is extended between 4,000 and 4,500.

The best way to see/feel the difference is to hold the car in 4th gear and you "should" (sometimes people tell me the opposite) that the power drops off around 4,000 rpm on map 2, where as if you switch over to map 3 and drive in 4th gear to 4,000 you should feel that the power continues to pull to around 4,500 (these are all based on the crd3+  on its own)

[Talk-torque]

Not going to copy all the correspondence on the pedal box/tuning box problem, but, what no one has said, including Andrew, is that the throttle on a diesel engine is, essentially, a fuel tap, hence the possibility of over fuelling if the two boxes "overlap".

Exonian, I know you have written about this, but some of us need things in simple terms.