Author Topic: tony_ack - 16v restore  (Read 21806 times)

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #10 on: 03 July 2010, 00:44 »
I also spent some time looking at the sunroof deflector. Most Golfs I've seen have rusty deflectors from stone chips, and I don't know about anyone else, but it really bugs me when the car is nice and clean, but the deflector looks ratty.

I suspect that these were powder coated, but unfortunately I like most don't have the equipment for this, so I decided to repaint it instead!

It's my first attempt, so be nice!

Here is how it all started:



First I had a go at the rust spots with a drill with a wire wheel attachment, and then I sanded back to the metal, using a handheld electric sander:



This left the deflector nice and smooth, but with still a bit of surface rust about. So next I treated the whole deflector with Kurust:



After the Kurust had worked its magic I sanded down with some wet 1200 grit paper to leave an ultra smooth finish, ready for painting

So next was where it went a little wrong. I cleaned the surface, then once dry and warm in the sun I applied the (shaken) primer. Unfortunately I laid it on a little too thick, and got a bit of run. I managed to sand back most of it okay, but a little bit is still just about visible. Really annoying though that I did all that prep work and it was ruined by a moment of madness where I should have known better  :angry:

I put on a few coats, letting it dry each time, then sanded back with some wet 1200 grit to prepare for the colour.

I used black satin from Halfords, which gets pretty close to the original colour. I gave it a couple of coats, but then DISASTER! I urned it over before it was 100% dry, and a tiny piece stuck to the cardboard. When I lifted it, it took off about 2sq mm of pain and primer, right to the metal. So I spent the next 30 minutes trying to sand the surrounding area back to the primer, then masking, and respraying the primer. Didn't work out too bad in the end, I went over the join with 1200 grit and managed to get rid of it, then gave a couple of coats of black.

I felt the surface, and it was okay, though a tiny bit rough. So I cut back the whole deflector with my favourite 1200 grit, before giving one more coat. Once dry it was as smooth as a baby's bottom!

To finish it off, I gave it a coat of smart wax, which may protect the paint a little. Et viola:



Not perfect, but I've learnt a lot of lessons, and am eagar to try something else to improve my technique! Slam panel, here we come?
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #11 on: 04 July 2010, 18:43 »
As mentioned a couple of days ago, I managed to find some Royal Blue panels. Well, I say some, in the end I got:
-Bonnet
-Driver's wing
-Driver's door
-Sunroof
-Filler flap
-Tailgate
-Colour-coded mirrors

The bonnet is almost mint, with only a couple of stone chips. I swapped the bonnet and the door today. The bonnet was easy once the washer jets were disconnected, and the door wasn't bad either. With the door, I had some problems with changing the handle. I have a replacement new handle but it is slightly different to the one that came off! I spent an hour trying to get it to fit before giving up and putting the old one back on. That's pattern parts for you...

Also, some random nut and bolt was in place where the central locking vac pump was supposed to be. The nut was already badly rounded and almost seized, and after a few minutes of cursing and swearing, I managed to force a torx socket onto it. I started to undo it, and luckily the bolt snapped before the nut, so out it came!

I can't believe what a difference the bonnet makes. It is now starting to look like a really, really nice car. Once the bumper is changed, it will look really nice from the front.

I was going to do the tailgate, but the vinyl decal is missing. I think this is because it has a colour-coded spoiler. I'm really torn now - I want the standard look, but the decal-less tailgate and colour-coded spoiler look nice too. I think the standard look is going to win, but only just...

The new door closes with a really satisfactory 'thud' now - no rattles at all.

Here are some pics of the handiwork:





1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #12 on: 12 July 2010, 17:01 »
Yesterday was one of those days where I had planned to spend a couple of hours working on the car, with a quite short list of jobs to do. The reality was that I spent 7 hours on it in total, and ended up missing the Grand Prix.

The plan was to:
-Swap the tailgate over
-Replace the driver's door inner weather seal
-Fix the sag in the door card with some fibreglass
-Replace the driver's door handle
-put some tape over the cracks in the airbox rubber boot

First the tailgate...
I started work on the tailgate last week. The tailgate I picked up a couple of weeks ago had no vinyl strip on it, so needed to fit a new one. I lined it up and realised the glass was going to have to come out. It actually wasn't too tricky, but it left me with a massive blister on my finger. First I pulled the plugs for the heated rear screen and then I came at it from the inside, getting my fingers behind the seal, and the pushing the seal under the lip on the tailgate. Once I was about two-thirds the way round, it popped out.

I gave the area where the seal would go a really good clean with some G101, and then some paint prep wipes just to make sure. I enlisted my girlfriend's help.

The vinyl strip was one piece, so we decided to cut into the backing in the middle, and start from where the holes were. We worked our way out on both sides slowly, trying our best not to trap any air bubbles. When we did, we had to peel back and relay. We found that our first attempt ended up really wonky, and had to peel back and start again. Eventually on the third attempt, we had it relatively straight, but still about 0.5cm difference in height from the right to the left. Also there were a couple of air bubbles despite our best efforts, so we went around with a pin, bursting them and flattening the sticker. Except for the height difference it came out okay in the end but it was a pig of a job.

I took the plinth off and number plate lights, and gave the tailgate a good clean, clay, polish and wax while it was off the car. I was sure I would get some grubby hand marks over it while fitting it, but the idea was to clean up and protect the areas behind the number plate, plinth and spoiler which wouldn't see daylight again for several years.

This was all before yesterday. I decided to leave the glass out to fit the tailgate. The tailgate already had he loom in, so I decided to use that and replace my heavily chopped loom in the car.

So the first task was to disconnect the loom and pipes. These run into the roof, and then down the C-pillar, and connect at either side of the boot. So I removed the c-pillar trim and parcel shelf supports, and pulled back the carpets to expose the wires. I located the plugs and an earth point, so disconnected these. I then disconnected the washer jet pipe and vac pipe from the other side, along with another earth wire.

Pulling the loom up from the c-pillar was actually easier than I thought it would be, but the foam surrounded the loom just disintergrated when touched. I managed to get the plugs out through the hole in the roof one at a time and soon, all was disconnected.

Next I loosened the 4 bolts holding the tailgate to the hinges. I didn't remove them - yet as I needed them to hold the tailgate in place.

Then cue my girlfriend to give me a hand again! I asked her to support the tailgate while I undid the boot lifters - in a moment of madness I disconnected them at the car side rather than the tailgate side. Not a problem, but just creating more work for myself.

With my girlfriend supporting the tailgate I removed the bolts and we lifted it from the car.

So far, so good.

I considered building up the new tailgate while it was off the car, but then realised that this may make the task of fitting the tailgate to the car a lot harder. So I pushed on (after refitting the boot lifters to the car), and got my girlfriend to support the (very light) tailgate while I tried to get the bolts in. This was a nightmare, and I was so glad I didn't try to do it with the glass, motors and everything else fitted. I connected the lifters first to help out my girlfriend,  and after fumbling around for about 15 minutes I finally got a bolt in on either side. Now it was 'on' I could relieve my girlfriend, and press on. The other bolts went in okay, and I tightened them up.

The first job I thought was to get the loom connected up. I thought this would be a nightmare, but it was actually really easy. I pushed it into the roof of the car, and it seemed to find its own way down the c-pillar, with just a bit of coaxing here and there. I connected up the wires, and was going well.

What I should have realised was that there is a set order that you should use when building up the tailgate. I wasted so much time fitting things, only to have to remove them again a few minutes later. Here is the order you should build it up:
-Fit Washer jet and connect pipe
-Boot lock (just in case you close it)
-central locking pump and mechanism and connect pipe
-window (can do this afterwards, but I liked to get it out of the way early)
-fit number plate lights (and test!)
-fix loom to tailgate using clips
-install wiper motor and connect
-install wiper linkage and calibrate
-attach plinth
-attach spoiler to glass
-attach rear demister plugs
-fit cover panel

And job is done! Make sure you test as you go - You don't want a fully fitted tailgate before you realise the washer jet isn't working.

Also, a word of warning with the washer jet - make sure the pipe is on tight at both the c-pillar and the jet itself - the last thing you want is screenwash leaking into your boot!

For the window, I used the string trick, which worked pretty well. I tied some string around the seal, fitted the window over the opening, and then pulled the string out, thus pulling the seal over the lip of the lid. It took about 20 minutes, stopping often and pushing down on the glass over the bits you've done to set it correctly and make the next section easier.

Finally, I reassembled the rear interior, but managed to lose a spanner as I dropped it down the side into the chassis! Luckly it's not rattling around in there..

1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #13 on: 30 July 2010, 18:00 »
I've not really done much to the car over the last couple of weeks, though my front bumper is now painted up and ready to go on once I pluck up the courage to tackle the bolts on the old bumper...

It went into the garage yesterday for a few jobs:
-New clutch
-New Downpipe
-New sump

The mechanic noticed that the diff was really wobbly when replacing the clutch, so it looks like the gearbox is on its way out. Hopefully I've managed to find a replacement box.

The new parts have made a big difference. The gearchange (and drive) is smoother, the whole car is quieter, and it doesn't smell quite so bad anymore. Also, there seems to be a lot more power low down.
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #14 on: 05 August 2010, 17:12 »
I've had a week off work this week, so I decided to tackle the dreaded front bumper and driver's wing.

The front bumper is hanging low at one side, and after further investigation it was discovered that the bumper bracket had actually snapped on that side. The bumper also needed repainting, so I decided to buy a new pattern bumper from Big Boys Toys. They're not cheap, but they're apparently the best quality you can get, other than OEM.

It certainly looked the part when it arrived. The bracket seemed a little on the thin side, though I didn't have a genuine one to compare it to.

I had previously painted the bumper on my now-dead 8v, though I did it with the bumper on the car, as I had a nightmare with the bumper bolts and captive nuts. The job came out okay in the end, though I couldn't get a high gloss finish and the paint peeled again after about 6 months (even though I used plastic primer). I read up about how to improve my technique, and was hopeful that it would be better this time.

I rang VW for the paint. I only got one paint pack last time, and it was nowhere near enough, so this time I wanted four. The dealers said they didn't do the paint for my car anymore, but maybe the bodyshop could mix it up. However it turned out that they could only mix it if they were going to spray it themselves, for which they wanted £200  :shocked:

I had heard good things about Paints4U, so I tried them. I phoned them for advice on spraying a bumper, and they recommended a plastic primer, and then a basecoat repair kit in my colour. I ordered an extra can of colour for good measure, along with some touch up pots - since they would mix all the paint at the same time, it seemed to make sense.

Once the paint had arrived I set to work.

The first task was to rub some wet 1200 grit paper over the bumper. This would take off any protectant, and also key the surface slightly, ready for the primer. I then washed it in G101, before masking up. Masking  took about  an hour in total – it’s something you really have to get right to do a good job. Then I was ready to spray!

I sprayed the plastic primer first, one thin coat over the bumper and let it dry. Next came the proper primer – I sprayed in thin coats – about 4 in total. Once the last coat had dried, I took the bumper outside to rub down the whole primered bit with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish.



Next it was time for the colour coat! Again, I built this up slowly in layers, with about 4-5 coats in total. It was obvious by the 3rd coat that I was spraying a little too thinly, so I upped it a bit for the last two coats.

I let this dry for a couple of hours, then came back to it for the clear coat. I added a couple of light layers of lacquer, before one thick layer at the end. There is a very fine line with getting the right amount of lacquer for a good finish. If you put it on too thinly, it will take ages to get a gloss finish, if you put it on too thick then it will run. If you get it just right, you will get a good, non-running finish.





Well, I got it almost right. It ran a tiny bit, but it was not very visible.

Then I left it for two weeks for the lacquer to harden.

The last stage was to rub down the whole bumper with some wet 2000 grit paper. Next, I set to work on the bumper with the DA polisher (masking the black plastic first) to get that high-sheen finish. I discovered that I had to go back and re-sand a couple of times as the finish wasn’t glossy enough at first, but I got there in the end.  In a couple of small, unnoticeable places I took off a little bit too much, but patched it up with a bit of touch-up lacquer.

And finally it was ready to go on!

My biggest tip is don't do this in the house if you have a violent and pregnant girlfriend!
« Last Edit: 05 August 2010, 18:47 by tony_ack »
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #15 on: 05 August 2010, 17:35 »
The replacement wing I have isn't perfect but it is a genuine wing and in the right colour.

Someone has rolled the arch in the past and cracked the paint, without bothering to repair it, so it is rusting a little there. There is also a bit of rust on the bottom of the wing, though it is all structually solid. The plan was to treat the rust and repaint the rusty bits, but I decided that there was too much to make it worthwhile, especially since none of the rust was anywhere near visible. Instead, I'll look out for a wing in better condition, and fit this one to the car.

The wing had also had a little paint on the top edge, near the front. Curiously, it was down to the metal, and someone just lacquered straight over the bare metal! I was going t leave that too, but then the neat freak in me took over...

I sanded back the lacquer from around the area,and then sanded back some colour too, back to the primer. I primered over the area with the bare metal, then built up the colour on top of that. I then took the lacquer back a bit more over a wider area to try to blend it in.

Once the lacquer had hardened, I cut back with some 2000 grit and polished it up.

The job wasn't perfect, but it wasn't bad. I need some more time on it with the polisher I think, and maybe another coat of lacquer.

But I was running out of time... I needed to get the wing on the car, so any further touch ups will have to be done in-situ.
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #16 on: 05 August 2010, 18:20 »
So D-Day had arrived! Time to swap over the front bumper, and driver’s wing. I was worried not only about getting the old parts off, but also about what horrors I may have found underneath.

I have got myself a little lock-up garage on a housing estate – it’s not ideal but beats working on the street or having to borrow my girlfriends’ parents’ drive. I would have liked some pictures, but I forgot the big camera and it was too dark for my phone camera  - sorry!

I set to work on trying to remove the old bumper. I had come prepared with a 24” ½” drive breaker bar. To my surprise, three of the bolts came out easily! The bumper then dropped off – because the bracket had broken, it was only held on by three of the bolts.

I had a lot of fun and games with the last bolt. The bracket had rusted away to almost nothing, so I was left with a bolt turning freely with the captive nut and remains of the bracket inside the chassis leg. Because it was the furthest bolt from the front, it was a little awkward to get to.

I tried to get a spanner/socket over the nut, but it had worn pretty badly, and I could only get a 16mm socket part way over it. With the torque needed to release the bolt, the socket just slipped off the nut every time. I also tried to get some mole grips around the nut, but they were too big to work with in the chassis leg.

I posted my experiences here: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=162590.0

I decided to get the bolt extractors, and had another go the next day. The extractor gripped straight away and I had the bolt out, intact, in 5 minutes!

I stripped the old bumper down and fixed the fog lights into the new one. The front splitter was awkward to remove – I don’t think the clips are designed to be taken out again, so I pretty much destroyed the old bumper trying to get the splitter off.

It also had to be worked into the new bumper. A tip here is to line it all up first, and then only push the clips in once all the holes are aligned. The biggest problems were the clips on the corners, but once they’re lined up, the others usually follow.

Next, I had to take the old wing off. This is actually a lot more straight-forward than I had anticipated. I jacked the car up first and removed the front wheel to give myself some room. Next I removed the arch trim by drilling out the (remaining) rivets. Then the arch liner comes out – this is held on with several 8mm bolts, both on the arch and the inner wing.

Now I could tackle the wing itself. First, I undid all the bolts along the top, and then a bolt next to the bumper support, and one at the front. This leaves you with three bolts on the A-pillar side. The bolts were covered in thick underseal, so I used the new wings for reference to find out where the bolts were. I used a flat screwdriver to carefully peel back the underseal from around the bolts until I could get a socket over them. Two bolts bolt into the bulkhead, and another is at the bottom. Once all the bolts are out I pulled at the wing (the old wing was scrap). The underseal broke at the edge of the wing, and I just peeled it off the car.

The old wing was completely shot. It looks like a pattern part (no VW stamps), though whoever had replaced it had done a good job with the underseal (just a shame they didn’t use a quality part!). The arch had almost disintegrated.

The inner wing looks very healthy, with no obvious signs of rust.

Refitting was the reverse of removal! There is some adjustment in the positioning in the wing, so I carefully made sure that everything lined up perfectly and the panel gaps were correct. I had to push the wing inwards while bolting it up to keep it straight, but it is spot on now. Also I had to make sure that the roof drain hole was threaded through the new wing properly (I forgot this at first and had to unbolt and start again).

Next I replaced the wheel arch. I had never used a rivet gun before, so it took me a while to work it out, but I got there in the end! I gave the join between the wing and inner wing a coat or two of Waxoyl (though I may revisit this to give it something more substatial). Finally, I replaced the arch lining. I checked the panel gaps once more, and everything looks good!

Next, it was time to refit the bumper. This is one job I did not enjoy. I really struggled to get the bumper bracket holes lined up properly. A couple of times I thought I had it, then realised I didn’t.

I sprayed the brackets and inside the chassis leg with Waxoyl before I started,

Got there in the end though. The best way to do it is to slide the bumper brackets into the chassis legs. Next, go to each side, and manoeuvre the bumper so that it slides onto the wing brackets. On my first attempt I tried to fasten the front bolts first – this only ends in pain. Go for the back ones – if you do the front ones first, the bracket will bend slightly and the bumper will pivot on the bolt meaning you’ll never find the back hole. Feel around for the hole in the bracket with the bolt, and once you find it, start to tighten it. Ideally, you want all four bolts in before you tighten them, but don’t be scared of giving each bolt a few turns with a socket to make sure it’s in properly. You don’t want to have just got the last bolt in, for the first one to fall out again! If at any point you suspect the wing bracket has slipped out, stop, and start that side again – you’ll never get the wing support in properly after the bolts are in.

Finally, tighten up all the bolts, real tight. I used the same breaker bar to tighten ¼ turn more once I had tightened as much as I could with the ratchet.
« Last Edit: 05 August 2010, 18:49 by tony_ack »
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #17 on: 05 August 2010, 18:27 »
Pics of the finished article  :smiley:





Paint on the wing needs some touch-up but at least it isn't rotten!
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #18 on: 16 August 2010, 13:33 »
I also had a look at the rear bumper. It was wonky on both sides, so I assumed the clips weren't in the runners properly.

The bumper came off really easily - didn't even need the breaker bar! Strangely, only 3 out of the 4 bolts were present, so I need to get another bolt...

It turned out that the side mounting clips were in fact broken. I had got a replacement bumper in the same colour a couple of months ago, but it had a hole cut out for a towbar under the bumper (which you can only really see if you're under the car), and it also had a number of light scratches.

Rather than deal with the hassle of trying to swap the side mounting clips over, I decided to just swap the bumpers. The one that had been on the car had some pretty deep scratches on one side anyway.

Bumper fitted on easily - no messing around lining up the holes like last time! Looks good now and hangs properly at the back now - I'll post pics soon
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6

Offline tony_ack

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Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
« Reply #19 on: 16 August 2010, 13:58 »
I also got my crach damaged 8v back last week, so that is now stored in the lock-up. I've decided to raid it for a few more parts...

-hard plastic scuttle panel and ECU cover
-wheel arch trims (to replace any that are scratched on mine)
-plastic clutch pedal 'stop'
-runout horn push
-electric windows loom

I want to get the BBS RAs off it too and send them for a refurb (they were actually originally from the 16v, but I swapped them over as the ones on the 8v looked better).

Next plans for the car are to get it booked in to the garage to get the replacement gearbox fitted, and then into the bodyshop to take out the dents and treat the rust spots. Depending on the quality of their work, I may consider a respray once I can afford it!

Most of my attention at the moment is on stripping the 8v.
1992 VW Golf MK2 GTI
1995 VW Corrado VR6