Author Topic: Wheel info.  (Read 13908 times)

Offline richw911

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Wheel info.
« on: 20 August 2008, 17:17 »
Golf Mk4 -    Year : 98 to 03 :

 PCD : 5x100  -   Offset : 30 to 45 -  Bore : 57.1

Torque up the wheel nuts to 110Nm

PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) = 5 x 100, which basically means that there are 5 studs, & any one 1 stud is 100 mm away from the central point of an imaginary line between the opposite 2 studs.  (You can't measure stud-to-stud on a 5 stud car because the studs aren't exactly opposite each other, like on a 4 stud car). 

ET 35 = Offset of 35.  ET 15 would make the wheel stick out the arches more, whereas an ET 50 wheel would make the wheel sit inside the arch.  The required offset of the wheel is determined by how far the hub on the car sits out.

e.g.  Old Peugeot & Fords both used to be 4 x 108, with offsets of 18 & 38, respectively.  Therefore you could run Ford rims on Pugs with 20 mm spacers, but you couldn't do it the other way around because the Pug rims would stick out too far on the Fords.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/wheeloffset.html



Heres some wheel info on factory fit items for the MK4 golf.



Steel
6.0x14 ET38 5/100 14"
6.0x15 ET38 5/100 15"
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 16"
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 16" Temp
3.5x18 ET?? 5/100 18" Temp

Alloy
6.0x15 ET38 5/100 Avus
6.0x15 ET38 5/100 Avus II
6.0x15 ET38 5/100 BBS
6.0x15 ET38 5/100 Jarama
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 Montreal
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 Brands Hatch
5.5x16 ET36 5/100 Winter
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 BBS (Mehrteilig)
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 Montreal II
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 Le Castellet
6.5x16 ET42 5/100 Pau
7.0x17 ET38 5/100 Long Beach
7.0x17 ET38 5/100 Santa Monica
7.5x18 ET38 5/100 BBS RC  (25th anniversary)
7.5x18 ET38 5/100 Oz-Aristo (R32)

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vwpanda.com/Wheels/BBS_RXII-Lenny.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.vwpanda.com/Wheels/index.php&usg=__zcEM2f7yJA5gZ7z-AqYnXTfnnsw=&h=511&w=498&sz=189&hl=en&start=7&um=1&tbnid=IBkQmVDWa_8KqM:&tbnh=131&tbnw=128&prev=/images%3Fq%3DBBS%2BRX%2BII%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/wheels/vw_17_5x112/donington.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/wheels/17_vw_5x112.htm&usg=__mPo_eumw2_5GDQViZi3uIYw2U1I=&h=400&w=400&sz=43&hl=en&start=4&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=6yspurShsf_GzM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvw%2B%2Bdonington%2Bwheels%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1

http://www.4130-products.com/wheels/



Offset is how far in or out the inner mounting face of the wheel is from the central line of the wheel.

A low offset means that it will be close to the center. 0 offset will mean that it is bang on. negative offset will mean its to the left of the center (assuming you are looking from the back of the car).

In general golf offsets are around the 35 mark. this will be written as ET35.

The lower this ET number, the more the wheels will sit towards the outside of the car, known as poke. Too low, and they will scrub on the outside of arches or arch liners. This can range from irritating to Tyre destroying. The cure for this is stretched rubber, camber, or a crowbar to the arches. Or just simply removing the liners.

The high ET number will mean that the center is further from the center. This will cause the wheels to sit inside the arches more, known as tuck. On thinner wheels this means you can get the car very low, but it looks a bit rubbish. The issue with high offsets is that they mean the inner edge of the wheel can rub on suspension components or the inside of the arches. The cure for this is spacers.




If you are upgrading to 18" wheels using 225/40/18 the rolling radius will be the same -so it wont throw the speedo out. (Well Only a tiny bit)

The trick is to keep the rolling radius the same.

e.g.  205/55 16  >  215/45 17 (or 225/45 17)  >  225/40 18  >  235/35 19


You can run 18" wheels without rubbing etc, Providing you have the right offset - ET38 5/100
 You can even lower the car 40mm+ without any problems with wheels rubbing.  :smiley:
 (Front ARB might rub if you go lower than 40mm tho!)


Wheel weights info on ukmkivs :

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/151116/1474890.aspx#1474890


Unsure of your PCD?

On 5 stud wheels, measure the distance between the very centre of 2 adjacent bolt holes and times the figure by 1.7012 to get the pcd figure (won't be perfect but it will be close enough for you to know what they are)





http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/wheels/wheels_overview.htm

http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html


Wiil they fit?

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=205&aspect=55&diameter=16&wheelwidth=6.5&offset=42&width2=225&aspect2=40&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=8&offset2=32&Submit=Submit
« Last Edit: 29 November 2011, 19:31 by richw911 »

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Offline T_J_G

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Re: Wheel info.
« Reply #1 on: 21 August 2008, 11:34 »
This thread is wheel good, nice one Rich!

Offline Ben_1uk

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Re: Wheel info.
« Reply #2 on: 21 August 2008, 11:44 »
Quote
This thread is wheel good, nice one Rich!

 :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:


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Offline T_J_G

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Re: Wheel info.
« Reply #3 on: 21 August 2008, 11:59 »
Quote
This thread is wheel good, nice one Rich!

 :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

 :grin: :lipsrsealed: :rolleyes:

Offline richw911

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Re: Wheel info.
« Reply #4 on: 21 August 2008, 14:53 »
lol  :grin: :grin: :grin:

Cheers :afro:

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Offline dobber

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Re: Wheel info.
« Reply #5 on: 16 March 2009, 11:26 »
When upgrading wheels you need to make sure that your rolling wheel circumference is aslo as close to original as possible otherwise you speedometer will display incorrectly.

http://www.paspeedo.com/calculator.htm

That link will help. Put in your stock wheel size, then what you want to get and see how close it is.

Hope it helps
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Offline bobbarley

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