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Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 how to guides + info => Topic started by: BaV on 17 April 2009, 15:33

Title: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: BaV on 17 April 2009, 15:33
This is my guide to Removing the N249 Valve that operates the Vacuum pipe going to the DV.

There are many ways of doing this but i think this way is nice, simple and straight forward!

I take no responsibility if you copy this guide and something goes wrong!

Things you need:

     Matterials:

     3mm Vacuum pipe, i bought a 3m pack and still have probably 1m left over
     One T piece for 3mm Vacuum pipe
     Some small cable ties

     Tools:

     Flat head screwdriver
     Side cutters
     pliers
     5mm Allen Key
     10mm socket & Ratchet

The first thing to do is to remove both engine covers.  By both i mean the main engine cover and the small one that going around the dip stick.

Then start off by removing the standard vacuum pipe that goes to the top of your DV, if you trace this back a short way it goes to a small metal pipe.  You need to completely remove the vacuum tube from the metal pipe.  Mine was impossible to get off so in the end i just cut it off with a stanley knife, but you could try tugging at it with pliers.

Once that tube is removed you can then remove the black reservoir that sits on top of coil No.4.  To remove this there is a 10mm nut holding the reservoir on to its mounting bracket, undo the nut then the reservoir comes away from the bracket.  Then you need to pull the small black tube that goes from the reservoir to another one of those small metal pipes. You need to again completely remove this tube and take the reservoir with it.  You can also remove the reservoir mounting bracket which is held on to the rocker head cover by three 5mm allen key bolts.

So at this point you should have nothing going to the top of your DV, no reservoir on the top of coil No.4 and also two small metal pipes with nothing connected to anymore.  The two metal pipes are shown in this picture below.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/1-4.jpg)

The next stage is to gain access to the plate at the front of the engine that has the N249 and N112 bolted to on the under side.  See picture below.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/2-3.jpg)

Firstly you will see a black plastic corrigated hose that is bolted to the front of this plate, it is held on by two 10mm nuts which you need to remove. Once those two nuts are removed you can completely get this pipe out of the way by uncliping it where it has a join and then swing it to the left hand side of the engine and hooking it round something to hold it.  The picture below shows where it has the join that can be unclipped.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/4-2.jpg)

Once that black pipe is out of the way you have to undo two 5mm allen key bolts that hold the plate onto the inlet manifold.  Now you will notice another black corrigated pipe that is fixed to the underside of the plate with another 10mm nut. Again, all you have to do is take that nut off and then that hose is not in the way. The plate is also clipped in to the dipstick guide so be carefull not to snap that.  Once all of this has been done the plate is now ready to be removed.

The next thing to do is to remove the two electrical connectors that join the valves on the underside of that plate.  This is a bit fiddly but is easily done with small hands!  You need to squeeze the metal bits on the plug to remove them.  I have shown the location of both of the plugs in the pictures below.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/10-1.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/11-1.jpg)

Now you will see on the right hand side of the plate three tubes going from the bottom to three small metal pipes.  They are shown in this picture below.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/3-2.jpg)

On my car the one on the left was a braided hose and the other two where rubber hoses, i would think this would be the same on all AUM's.  Now cut these three pipes with a pair of side cutters.

Once you have cut those three pipes you should be able to swing the left hand side of that plate over to the right so you can now see the bottom of the plate.  Shown in the picture below (ignore the corrigated pipe i didnt clip it up out the way at first)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/5-1.jpg)

Now you will also see in that picture that i have pointed out the only place where that plate is still connected to. That is the pipe that is giving those valves there vacuum feed. That pipe needs to be removed from the intake manifold, it should pull off prety easy.  Once that pipe is removed then the whole plate should be able to be removed from the engine bay.

Now you have to remove all of the standard pipework that is connected to both of the valves on that plate.  Make sure you take care in removing all of the standard pipework so you dont damage any of the ports on the two valves.

Now you need to copy what i have done in this picture below, using the original one way valve and leaving about 25cm or so of vacuum tube on the two pipes that go out of site.  you will also notice that i put a cable tie around all of the joints.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/6-1.jpg)

Now you need to take the tube that comes from the top of the one way valve and plug it in to the inlet manifold where the original valves vacuum feed was.  Shown in the pictures below.  Also try and get a cable tie round this joint.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/7-1.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/8-1.jpg)

Next you have to remove the rest of the three cut vacuum pipes that were joined to the valves on the underside of the plate.  These two rubber tubes originally joined the metal pipes and went to the other end where we removed the DV pipe and the reservoir on top of coil No.4.  Now because obviosuly we have removed the two tubes at the other end going to the DV and the Reservoir we no longer need anything joined to the metal pipes at the front end so just completely remove the rest of the rubber tubes you cut and leave the metal pipes with nothing on.

The other tube that you cut was the braided one.  This joins another small metal pipe and goes to the cars Secondary Air intake System.  I have left this on the car for the time being so we need to give this its vacuum feed from the N112 valve.  You now have to completely remove whats left of the braided tube from the metal pipe it connects to and then take your other new vacuum feed to that same metal pipe  (you use the vacuum pipe coming from the left hand side of the N112 shown in the picture below)  Hope that makes sense!

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/9-1.jpg)

Once you have connected both of the tubes coming from that plate you can now swing the plate back over and bolt it back on the car in the same way that you removed it, including the two black plastic corrigated tubes that you had to move to get the plate off.  And also dont forget to reconnect both of the small electrical plugs to the valves otherwise the car will show an engine management fault.

Once all this has been done all you need to do is give the DV another Vacuum feed.  The easiest way to do this is to replace the braided line going from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the Fuel pressure regulator with a new tube that has a T piece in it.  And then from the T piece run a vacuum tube straight to the top of your DV.  You will see in my picture below that i have two T pieces in this Vacuum line. This is because i am running a boost gauge from here aswel.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/bavanuity/12.jpg)

Then put your engine covers back on and now your N249 bypass is complete!

It can take a couple of days worth of driving for the car to get used to the change so dont be annoyed if its a little jerky at first.

Hope this guide is clear enough and helps people! I will edit it if anyone has any sugestions on how to make it a bit simpler!

Cheers, Richard


The writer of this guide and GolfGTI.co.uk accept no responsibility of damage to your car when using this guide. Use at your own risk.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 17 April 2009, 17:26
sounds good. ill give it a try when i get paid

cheers mate
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: jonnyturbo on 18 April 2009, 09:14
good guide mate  :cool:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: BaV on 18 April 2009, 11:25
cheers hope i didnt waffle too much lol, and at first all the spacing went wrong on the text because i wrote it in notepad but i have sorted that now so its easier to read lol
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Car nut on 08 May 2009, 11:47
Bav, you should get some blue piping on your engine  :grin: :grin:

Nice guide  :wink:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Gozza on 13 May 2009, 17:04
What benefit does this give ?

Sorry if its been mentioned but I cant see it.

Thanks
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 13 May 2009, 20:18
i think it makes it more responsive because your not relying on the ECU to tell the N249 when to open and close the DV.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 18 May 2009, 13:36
I did this mod yesterday and am surprised by the difference it has made. Why VW introduce this heap of !"£$%^&*, I don't know!

I highly recommend this to anyone considering it.

Excellent guide, thanks BaV! :grin:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: jtomlin on 21 May 2009, 23:44
so it just makes the throttle a bit more responsive? and risk of anything exploding..?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 22 May 2009, 08:26
no. it does the same job but without the N249
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: golfgar on 23 May 2009, 21:49
top guide mate,didnt take long :grin:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 25 May 2009, 22:36
so it just makes the throttle a bit more responsive? and risk of anything exploding..?

AFAIK, the AGU/ARZ doesn't have have the N249 valve, so this mod just makes the AUM/AUQ function in the same way.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: navmk4gti on 10 June 2009, 02:27
can i ask why bypass the valve?? what you get out of it  :lipsrsealed: sorry dumb question :embarassed:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 10 June 2009, 10:47
can i ask why bypass the valve?? what you get out of it  :lipsrsealed: sorry dumb question :embarassed:

The valve allows the ECU to open the DV at any time rather than allowing it to open habitually.

Bypassing the valve makes the DV more responsive, and the boost curve more smooth and progressive.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: navmk4gti on 10 June 2009, 12:55
can i ask why bypass the valve?? what you get out of it  :lipsrsealed: sorry dumb question :embarassed:

The valve allows the ECU to open the DV at any time rather than allowing it to open habitually.

Bypassing the valve makes the DV more responsive, and the boost curve more smooth and progressive.

kool  :smiley:

but arent there any side effects after doing this..future problems??? 
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 10 June 2009, 13:00
but arent there any side effects after doing this..future problems??? 

It's clearly been put there for a reason, but the fact that the earlier Mk4s did without the valve is reason enough for me to bypass it!

I've not experienced, or read of anyone else having problems as a result.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: navmk4gti on 10 June 2009, 14:40
iv got a AGU 98 mk4 will mine have it den?? iv got a forge splitter d/v with no probs
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 10 June 2009, 14:43
i think its the ARZ's that dont have one??
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 10 June 2009, 14:47
iv got a AGU 98 mk4 will mine have it den?? iv got a forge splitter d/v with no probs

i think its the ARZ's that dont have one??

I'm not sure which engine codes have them, but if you've got the N249, you will also have a vacuum reservoir covering your 4th coil pack/spark plug.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: navmk4gti on 10 June 2009, 14:59
ill check it out and let you guys know..  :smiley:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Rhyso on 10 June 2009, 15:01
iv got a AGU 98 mk4 will mine have it den?? iv got a forge splitter d/v with no probs

no
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: navmk4gti on 10 June 2009, 15:21
oh k ryhso confirmed it i belive him i dont need to go out in the rain and check then  :laugh:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: northeast_gti-t on 14 June 2009, 22:27
but arent there any side effects after doing this..future problems??? 

It's clearly been put there for a reason, but the fact that the earlier Mk4s did without the valve is reason enough for me to bypass it!

I've not experienced, or read of anyone else having problems as a result.
same here and mine seems to run much better than it did with all those valves pipes and crap in the way  :laugh:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 21 June 2009, 20:17
nice guide! gonna try it when my 3mm vacuum tubes and the t-piece turns up. forge sell a secondary intake system blanking plate?? whats this about an is it needed?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: northeast_gti-t on 21 June 2009, 22:57
nice guide! gonna try it when my 3mm vacuum tubes and the t-piece turns up. forge sell a secondary intake system blanking plate?? whats this about an is it needed?
iirc BaV is/has done this mod also pm him the sai is only a pre heater to warm the cat up quicker on start up for emissions etc i think somebody on the cupra forum has done this also i'm thinking of removing mine  :undecided:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: BaV on 21 June 2009, 23:20
I removed mine last week and will be putting it back on this week.

From my experience i Would not reccomend it to anyone. Car seems more jolty when accelerating, failed emmissions test! And the car still ticks over higher on a cold start so not really sure what it does lol. A lot of unburnt fuel was coming through on the emmisions test so i have a feeling this pump is always doing something. And also even if u put a resistor in the pump harness you still get a sai incorect flow fault code and engine management light.

So for anybody thinking of doing it i wouldnt bother!
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 23 June 2009, 17:00
i bought 3mm vacuum tube from forge and its much too small! the internal size of it is 3mm apparently but it wont go onto the top of my splitter valve. anyone help me? thanks
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 23 June 2009, 17:01
i bought 3mm vacuum tube from forge and its much too small! the internal size of it is 3mm apparently but it wont go onto the top of my splitter valve. anyone help me? thanks

Rub a bit of washing up liquid onto the nozzle to help the hose to slide on.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 23 June 2009, 17:37
is it fine to use the 3mm tho?? looks a bit smaller than the original so i dont wanna risk running the wrong size vacuum pipe an breaking something lol.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 23 June 2009, 23:13
did the bypass anyway using the guide (which is spot on by the way :D) and im not too sure.....i got the splitter valve on mine an with my induction kit it used to go tsssshhhhh pretty loud an at the exact time i released the throttle, now there isnt a particular noise that it makes it just does what it wants and it does it whenever if feels like really!! not regretting it really because it doesn seem like any power loss but ive lost the noise that i luuuuuv! any help??
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: BaV on 24 June 2009, 08:32
did the bypass anyway using the guide (which is spot on by the way :D) and im not too sure.....i got the splitter valve on mine an with my induction kit it used to go tsssshhhhh pretty loud an at the exact time i released the throttle, now there isnt a particular noise that it makes it just does what it wants and it does it whenever if feels like really!! not regretting it really because it doesn seem like any power loss but ive lost the noise that i luuuuuv! any help??

Sounds prety strange for you to be able to notice it that much.  My cars dump is slightly quieter after doing this but it definately pulls better so i dont mind.

Sorry cant really suggest anything.

Ony thing you can do is put it back to standard i pressume.  I'l have a think and post up later.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 24 June 2009, 18:19
ok mate, cheers! it definately pulls more, i noticed it on the motorway today it goes from 80 to 120 much quicker, or so it feels anyway! mite just be wishful thinkin lol. the noise is more of a flutter now and i noticed earlier that my splitter valve is open when tickin over and when i rev it slowly it will close then stay closed and open once i release full throttle. not sure if this is right. i was thinkin for a while that maybe the valve needs to be adjusted now due to a pressure difference, possibly that i needed to tighten the spring to close it as there may be a bit more pressure or something. the only way it will stay closed while ticking over is by tightening the dv till its at its fullest. i was thinking that if the vavle is stayin open when tickin over its not really re-circulating porperly is it? or does this only count under load? sorry to be a spanner lol
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 24 June 2009, 22:13
80 - 120  :laugh:

hope it was a private motorway
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GregUK on 24 June 2009, 22:40
80 - 120  :laugh:

hope it was a private motorway

I think he meant KPH :grin:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: davetec-s on 26 June 2009, 18:34
no i meant mph but i was on the autobahn in germany :S lol. love livin on the edge me  :wink:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: G60GTI16V on 18 July 2009, 10:35
ok mate, cheers! it definately pulls more, i noticed it on the motorway today it goes from 80 to 120 much quicker, or so it feels anyway! mite just be wishful thinkin lol. the noise is more of a flutter now and i noticed earlier that my splitter valve is open when tickin over and when i rev it slowly it will close then stay closed and open once i release full throttle. not sure if this is right. i was thinkin for a while that maybe the valve needs to be adjusted now due to a pressure difference, possibly that i needed to tighten the spring to close it as there may be a bit more pressure or something. the only way it will stay closed while ticking over is by tightening the dv till its at its fullest. i was thinking that if the vavle is stayin open when tickin over its not really re-circulating porperly is it? or does this only count under load? sorry to be a spanner lol

only under load mate it recirculates, i have one fitted and my valve is open on idle. if you turn it till its closed on idle you dont get the woosh sound. the piston in my valve ticks when idling.

Glad i got an AGU
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Mr_Orange on 03 November 2009, 17:36
DO IT!

It's very very simple and works wonder!  :wink:

Awesome guide, but I'd recommend you use a larger bore (perhaps 5mm) on the "non return valve" and reduce it down to 3mm pipe for the connections either end.  I used the 3mm and it was a mad squeeze onto the valve.  Now a bit worried pipe will degrade and split so on the look out for a short length of 5mm bore and some 5mm > 3mm reducers.  I might also tidy up some of the pipes that are a bit too long.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: mikemk4gti on 01 January 2010, 10:32
If I do this will it stop the traction control working??
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: BaV on 01 January 2010, 16:31
If I do this will it stop the traction control working??

Nope
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: l555omy on 25 June 2010, 14:03
another succes , i just bypassed mine ! thumbs up to this one , cheers :cool:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Dalo Harkin on 09 August 2011, 08:13
I'm looking into this, mainly to reduce all the standard pipes that are known to leak boost, here is the dilemma, I have an ARZ engine and previous posts here dont think it has the N249, BUT I definatley have the reservoir on the top of coil pack 4, other than ripping the lot off and seeing if there is an actual N249 am I right in saying it must have one because of the reservoir?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Granta Gti on 12 August 2011, 15:58
ARZs do have them mate, it says earlier in the thread they don't but they do! Done it to mine and it's an ARZ
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: GTIcheeseman on 28 May 2012, 19:50
can this bedone to the agu 1.8t ? also what does this achieve?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: barry-gti on 28 May 2012, 22:57
AGU's dont have an N249.

Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: wasps1990 on 03 June 2012, 00:47
I removed mine last week and will be putting it back on this week.

From my experience i Would not reccomend it to anyone. Car seems more jolty when accelerating, failed emmissions test! And the car still ticks over higher on a cold start so not really sure what it does lol. A lot of unburnt fuel was coming through on the emmisions test so i have a feeling this pump is always doing something. And also even if u put a resistor in the pump harness you still get a sai incorect flow fault code and engine management light.

So for anybody thinking of doing it i wouldnt bother!

are u talking about that mod or this one coz im thinking about doing this mod (n249 valve) but wont bother if it f**ks up emmissions n so on thanks alex
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Nino on 28 August 2012, 18:48
Just to clear this up, by doing this mod will it cause ssue with emissions? and can it be done to an AUM?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Mr_Orange on 28 August 2012, 19:21
Just to clear this up, by doing this mod will it cause ssue with emissions? and can it be done to an AUM?

I did this to our AUM a couple of years ago.  Has passed two MOTs since then.  No worries   :wink:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Nino on 28 August 2012, 19:37
Thankyou, i'll look into it then :)
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Dalo Harkin on 30 August 2012, 19:59
I removed mine last week and will be putting it back on this week.

From my experience i Would not reccomend it to anyone. Car seems more jolty when accelerating, failed emmissions test! And the car still ticks over higher on a cold start so not really sure what it does lol. A lot of unburnt fuel was coming through on the emmisions test so i have a feeling this pump is always doing something. And also even if u put a resistor in the pump harness you still get a sai incorect flow fault code and engine management light.

So for anybody thinking of doing it i wouldnt bother!

are u talking about that mod or this one coz im thinking about doing this mod (n249 valve) but wont bother if it f**ks up emmissions n so on thanks alex

Dont know what you actually did, but you cant have done something right
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: tomparkes on 14 January 2013, 13:37
Bringing this back from the dead - I know, I know... :rolleyes:

Just wanted to clarify (as some of the later posts are querying), bypassing the N249 won't affect emissions. BaV was talking about removing the secondary air pump, which is used to bring the catalytic converter up to temperature when cold starting. Removing this pump won't do much for performance (probably nothing actually) but will tidy up the engine bay at the same time as affecting emissions. If you remove it, make sure you put it back on before getting your car MOT'd :wink:

On a side note - I'm thinking of bypassing the N249 on my AUM to see what all the fuss is about - I assume this kind of "modification" needs to be declared to the insurance company? Before anyone starts having a go, I'm not the sort of person that wants to hide anything from them in order to save myself a few quid, I am genuinely unsure as to whether this would need to be declared. After all, it's bypassing something that already exists, not adding something fancy/expensive. Cheers.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Mr_Orange on 14 January 2013, 21:14
Bringing this back from the dead - I know, I know... :rolleyes:

Just wanted to clarify (as some of the later posts are querying), bypassing the N249 won't affect emissions. BaV was talking about removing the secondary air pump, which is used to bring the catalytic converter up to temperature when cold starting. Removing this pump won't do much for performance (probably nothing actually) but will tidy up the engine bay at the same time as affecting emissions. If you remove it, make sure you put it back on before getting your car MOT'd :wink:

On a side note - I'm thinking of bypassing the N249 on my AUM to see what all the fuss is about - I assume this kind of "modification" needs to be declared to the insurance company? Before anyone starts having a go, I'm not the sort of person that wants to hide anything from them in order to save myself a few quid, I am genuinely unsure as to whether this would need to be declared. After all, it's bypassing something that already exists, not adding something fancy/expensive. Cheers.

Removing SAI does not affect MOT emissions testing dude.  Ours has now passed 2 MOTs without it.........  Its also passed 3 without the N249  :kiss:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: tomparkes on 15 January 2013, 09:07
Hmm, interesting... I've heard quite a bit about this screwing with the emissions, but maybe it's just dependent on the engine/model. Or maybe what I've been told is complete rubbish! Oh well! :rolleyes:
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: NegoGti on 21 January 2013, 18:24
Ive just done this on my AUM It works so good much much better then before mine was broken btw thank u so much for this  guide
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Nino on 18 April 2013, 22:42
I have just done this mod and I too have noticed the car runns sooooo much better problem is im getting flutter  :undecided: see my topic here...
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=252504.0
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: D1andonlyantman on 08 November 2013, 17:12
So, I've recently bought a gti 180 and was just wondering if a few years down the line you still swear by this mod being the way to go?

Thanks
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: tallpaulr on 10 November 2013, 09:22
I've not got a Dump Valve fitted to mine where would the pipe go instead?
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Nino on 11 November 2013, 09:38
I've not got a Dump Valve fitted to mine where would the pipe go instead?

Straight to the inlet manifold mate :)
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: WadGTI on 11 November 2013, 13:33
So, I've recently bought a gti 180 and was just wondering if a few years down the line you still swear by this mod being the way to go?

Thanks

I have had it done for a few months now. Can't say I notcied a big difference. It certainlly doesn't surge when removed.

I would say do it if you can. You can always put it back together anyways. I did it on my AUQ, so if you have problems, give me a shout.
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: D1andonlyantman on 13 November 2013, 17:19
I just thought I'd add to this and say this mod is a requirement for a stage 2 remap by r-tech, so that's a enough of a recommendation for me :-)
Title: Re: Guide to removing / bypassing the N249 valve.
Post by: Mr_Orange on 26 November 2013, 20:09
Just passed another MOT without them
Tidier engine bay and a few less potential vacuum leaks too
:cool: