GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: greencode on 06 April 2021, 14:56
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Not sure if this is just a coincidence but I had my Golf R serviced 4 weeks ago and since then I the Stop/Start seemed to not want to come on. Can't remember the exact wording but it said the power consumption was too high. I turned AC / Radio and anything else off I could find to see if that stopped it… It didn't.
Anyway, since yesterday I am now getting an array of errors and lights:
- Error: ABS/Stabilisation control (ESC)
- Auto Hold is unavailable
- Error: Start-stop system
- Front Assist unavailable
- Error: Tyre Pressure Loss Indicator
- Error: Cornering light (AFS)
- Error: ParkPilot.
Any ideas or should I just call the dealer and explain that everything was okay before the service.
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@greencode; How old is your battery? A dying battery is often the cause of multiple error messages.
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@greencode; How old is your battery? A dying battery is often the cause of multiple error messages.
The car is 4 years old with the original battery. I've done 20,000 miles - if that means anything. Not sure what it should be reading but I've just checked with the multimeter and I'm getting 12.1 with the engine off and around 14.6 with it on.
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Stop/Start not working is often an indicator of a knackered battery.
At 4 years its probably there or there abouts for a new battery.
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The voltages seem alright, albeit a little low with the engine off.
Could you test the voltage when you have the car on "accessory" mode with the dash lit up and radio on?
It could be pulling enough voltage to result in the errors you're receiving.
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The voltages seem alright, albeit a little low with the engine off.
Could you test the voltage when you have the car on "accessory" mode with the dash lit up and radio on?
It could be pulling enough voltage to result in the errors you're receiving.
12.08 in accessory mode
Stop/Start not working is often an indicator of a knackered battery.
At 4 years its probably there or there abouts for a new battery.
Just had a quick look on the National Tyres and Kwit Fit sites and they're quoting £184 fitted for a AGM096E Platinum Battery - sound okay!?
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The voltages seem alright, albeit a little low with the engine off.
Could you test the voltage when you have the car on "accessory" mode with the dash lit up and radio on?
It could be pulling enough voltage to result in the errors you're receiving.
12.08 in accessory mode
That's a little low to be honest. Ideally with everything off you would be wanting to see 12.4v - 12.9v
It could be that the cars electronics are sensitive to that difference in voltage.
Taken the car for a bit of a drive since it was at the dealer to see if it charges up a bit?
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That's a little low to be honest. Ideally with everything off you would be wanting to see 12.4v - 12.9v
It could be that the cars electronics are sensitive to that difference in voltage.
Taken the car for a bit of a drive since it was at the dealer to see if it charges up a bit?
I did a 100 mile trip not long after it was serviced and the Stop-Start began to work again but a few days later it stopped. Sounds like you're right though and the battery is just draining. I've done around 80 miles today and it's still not working. I'll see what the reading is in the morning.
I've always presumed that the way you know the battery is on its way out is when you struggle to start it. It starts first time, every time so didn't consider it could be a battery issue.
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You have had warning and that is all you get with modern cars, it will one day just not even turn over. I thought you would get the usual slow turnover first start but mine failed to start one day after a drive.
At 4 years you are doing well, I would replace it sooner than later and also go for AGM if possible over the standard EFB.
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Thanks so much for everybody's help with this. Really appreciated.
Looking around the cheapest I can find, fitted, is £160.20 with National (using the voucher on their website) for the "Platinum Start-Stop AGM Battery (360,000 Engine Starts) AGM096E 12v battery"
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Out of interest, how do you check the battery voltage?. Can it be done in the car or do you need to use something like a multimeter or an OBD11?
Also related to that question, you can fit your own battery and save a few quid if you have an OBD11 or similar to program the new battery. I'm sure there will be videos on YouTube to help
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Battery Megastore seems reasonable for my GTD (I am able to code it myself)
https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/yuasa-ybx9096-agm-car-battery-type-096/
I cannot check the voltage in the car, holding down the trip meter might work on the GTI
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Just called National Tyres and they can't code it. So, I'm wondering whether it might be better to get a battery online and then buy a OBD11 device to do it myself. If that's the case is there any particular model of OBD11 that's best and good value? I've just had a look on Amazon and the one on there is £120 (I use a Mac and iPhone if that means anything with these devices?!)
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I think you need the 'next gen' version for it to work properly with an Iphone. I bough mine direct from the OBD11 website with their black Friday offer.
They are currently offering the pro for 99 euros, delivery does take a few weeks.
I have just had a look and cannot see an app to change the battery so it looks like you will need the pro version to code it
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Just called National Tyres and they can't code it. So, I'm wondering whether it might be better to get a battery online and then buy a OBD11 device to do it myself. If that's the case is there any particular model of OBD11 that's best and good value? I've just had a look on Amazon and the one on there is £120 (I use a Mac and iPhone if that means anything with these devices?!)
Whereabouts are you in the country, might be someone near you with an OBD11 that could code it for you. I know I could if you were near me.
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Good call, I'm in the North West, Preston Area if that is any help :grin:
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You don't need Pro to code the battery. I just ordered the Gen 1 on Amazon.
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Could you please elaborate then 'sjw'and let everyone know how to do it!
I had a look on the apps and could not see one so any help would be appreciated.
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Good clear video here from Andrew at Track Hack, he's coding for a lithium ion but it's the same process for Pb.
You only need to watch it from 3 minutes for the coding. Simple job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrbvCHDbmmw
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Could you please elaborate then 'sjw'and let everyone know how to do it!
I had a look on the apps and could not see one so any help would be appreciated.
Will try and remember next time I go out in the car! Can't look through the app without it being connected. It's not through the app though. Pretty sure it's in a tutorial that has been posted in either this thread or another to do with the battery
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Halfords include coding as part of fitting. Website shows £146
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Thanks sjw
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I went with Kwik Fit in the end. Cost around £160 fitted and coded. However, there has beeb a few issues since…
1. When I drove off it the Vehicle Status for Start/Stop said the engine needed to be running - It was! So, I went back, he plugged in his computer, did something, and that seemed to stop.
2. I drove about 20 miles and everything was okay but then the errors started popping up again.
The battery read 12.6 about 3 days ago and it's now 12.17.
Perhaps it needs a good run to get it fully charged??
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You might want to do a diode test on the alternator. The problem could be that it is acting like a parasite and taking charge back out of the battery when stationary and engine is off.
A lot of modern cars have a period of time when things will remain energised before they "go to sleep", and so can give you false readings when taking measurements. To get the most accurate reading then you would want to leave the car for at least 20-30mins to allow everything to shut off then do some more investigation. I know when I have been cleaning mine I can hear various switches and circuits clicking off for the first 20mins or so after I have moved it to a more cleaning friendly position.
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Local VW dealer Insist a VW branded battery is used and want £255.
Surely this is straightforward if you have obd11?
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You might want to do a diode test on the alternator. The problem could be that it is acting like a parasite and taking charge back out of the battery when stationary and engine is off.
A lot of modern cars have a period of time when things will remain energised before they "go to sleep", and so can give you false readings when taking measurements. To get the most accurate reading then you would want to leave the car for at least 20-30mins to allow everything to shut off then do some more investigation. I know when I have been cleaning mine I can hear various switches and circuits clicking off for the first 20mins or so after I have moved it to a more cleaning friendly position.
Thanks for replying. Is there any tutorial on how to do a diode test?
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Local VW dealer Insist a VW branded battery is used and want £255.
Surely this is straightforward if you have obd11?
A car manufacturer will say anything to try and sell you more. They insist you use their screen wash too
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Surely this is straightforward if you have obd11?
Yes, very...
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What’s a little odd is this... tested battery (21.07). Went for a 20 mile drive. Initially the start stop didn’t work until around 5 miles in. No errors until around 17 miles in and then the 6 usual ones that I mentioned in my first post.
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You might want to do a diode test on the alternator. The problem could be that it is acting like a parasite and taking charge back out of the battery when stationary and engine is off.
A lot of modern cars have a period of time when things will remain energised before they "go to sleep", and so can give you false readings when taking measurements. To get the most accurate reading then you would want to leave the car for at least 20-30mins to allow everything to shut off then do some more investigation. I know when I have been cleaning mine I can hear various switches and circuits clicking off for the first 20mins or so after I have moved it to a more cleaning friendly position.
Thanks for replying. Is there any tutorial on how to do a diode test?
This is a semi decent website, with some good alternative things to check all by using a multimeter.
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Alternator-Problems-and-Automotive-Charging-System-Tests
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It turned out to be two faulty ABS sensors so annoyingly got a new battery for nothing.