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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Golf mk2 gallery => Topic started by: jv on 01 June 2010, 11:10

Title: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: jv on 01 June 2010, 11:10
:)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 01 June 2010, 15:19
Thanks jv!

I got my first Golf GTI at the start of 2009 - a 5 door MK2 8v GTI. I spent a lot of time bringing it up to a good standard, but

unfortunately as some of you may have seen from my post in the General Chat section, it was involved in a smash a couple of

months ago.

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5030113.jpg)

Whilst I was gutted about this, it gave me the chance to start again with something else.

I decided to go for a 16v 3 door this time. I spent a lot of money on the 8v, but I could never justify fully restoring it as it was

never going to be really desirable, being a 5 door. A 16v 3 door is a different story - they will always be in demand - so I set

about trying to find the most solid one I could. I set myself a healthy budget of £2500, but for that money, I was expecting

something pretty nice.

I looked at a few without being impressed (two rotters, one undeclared cat c write off, and one priced at £3k which looked a little

bent), before finally seeing one that ticked all the boxes, priced at about half my budget.

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110170.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110170.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110169.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110169.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110168.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110168.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110173.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110173.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110171.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110171.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110172.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110172.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110178.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110178.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110179.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110179.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110174.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110174.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110175.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110175.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110176.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110176.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P5110177.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/?action=view&current=P5110177.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 01 June 2010, 15:33
The car looks like it needs a lot of TLC, but the shell looks solid. No rust on the sills, wiper blanks, rear valance or around the fuel filler. It needs a new driver's wing, and a new tailgate as they are rotting. The bonnet has some serious lacquer peel, and is starting to rust a little too, and there's also a rust spot on the driver's door. The bumper is sagging at one side, so I will need to take a look at that. The back bumper doesn't look quite right either. The shell itself has a couple of small rust spots on the rear quarter, just below each window which will need looking at, and there's a bit of surface rust on the rear panel. There are also quite a lot of small scratches and dents over the car. It could benefit from a respray at some point.

The engine has done 162k which is high for a 16v, but it doesn't seem to knock, tap or smoke. The idle is completely buggered and the car seems to be running very rich. The ISV has been unplugged to improve the idle, so that's probably the best place to start. Also, there's a bucket exhaust on the back which is a little loud for my liking, but actually sounds okay with a throaty growl under full throttle.

The interior is looking okay, but all the front base bolsters are sagging, and the drivers seat back material is starting to go too. The rear has headrests, but they look like they have been retrofitted with front headrests rather than using genuine rears. The headlining has gone too, and an aftermarket steering wheel has been fitted. The wheel actually feels quite nice, but there's nothing quite as good as genuine VAG.

The plan is to get the car mint (eventually). The 8v was pretty tidy, and this one has a long way to go to even match that standard.

Time for the list-making to start. Here is a list of jobs to do:

Bodywork/Exterior
Treat surface rust on shell (below rear windows)
Remove dents from shell
Replace front wing
Replace tailgate
Replace driver's door/repair driver's door rust
Replace bonnet
Replace front bumper (looks like the iron has broken where it mounts to the chassis leg)
Tidy up back bumper - make sure the bumper side mounts are okay
Make sure all rivets on wheel arches are present
Remove rub strips on re-seat, ensuring all clips are okay
Replace front indicators with OEM orange ones
Tidy up front grille
Find GTI 16v front grille badge
Replace broken 'Olf GTI' rear badge
Replace VW rear badge with a chrome one
Blacken bumpers and exterior trim
Repair rear wiper (doesn't work at all, though washer does)
Re-align front washer jets
Replace driver's door handle
Remove armour plate on passenger side
Refurb wheels
Fit set of matching tyres

Interior
Fit new radio headunit
Replace dash and rear speakers
Fit door speakers with VW grilles
Fit alarm/immobiliser (I miss my remote central locking :-)  )
Get a replacement spare key
Replace headlining
Replace centre console with genuine one (the electric window switches look wrong - probably been retrofitted)
Sort out sticking sunroof deflector
Replace steering wheel
Replace golf ball gearknob as the one in there is cracked
Replace gear gaitor
Replace front passenger seat base bolsters
Replace driver's seat back material
Fit VW floor mats
Fit first aid kit

Engine
Clean/replace ISV
Check for air leaks
Set CO/Idle
Fit K&N panel filter
Oil/filter change
Replace sump
New leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap, plugs
Replace dizzy oil seal
New clutch
Tighten altenator belt (squeals like a pig!)
Change PAS fluid
Adjust handbrake
Replace exhaust with OEM system
Replace worn gear linkage
Replace cam cover gasket
Replace thermostat
Replace water pump
Replace heater matrix

That should be a good start!
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 01 June 2010, 15:49
I've had the car for three weeks now, and I've made quite a lot of progress...

I fixed the squealing fanbelt so it's no longer embarrassing to go into car parks, and I've fitted a headunit, a nice little Sony unit with bluetooth and a built-in MOSFET amp, which will hopefully handle my modest audio needs. I also took out the idle valve and gave it a good blast with some carb cleaner. I also cleaned out the intake pipes and idle screw at the same time.

I took the car to Reading for work, and then into central London too, a total of about 400 miles. The car did okay on the whole, except for when the bucket exhaust fell off (that would explain the load throaty noise!). Nearly 200 miles from home, I took it into ATS. They found the front/downpipe section to be leaking also. I asked them to patch up the front the best they could, and to replace the back box which had snapped in two. I had wanted an OEM exhaust, but I didn't really have much choice, and settled for a Timax backbox, costing £150. The car is a lot quieter now at least, and it doesn't smell quite so bad!

Also, when I was stuck in traffic, the oil temp seemed to hold at 120 degrees for long periods of time. To be honest, the oil temp in general is very high compared to the 8v, but the 8v was running Mobil 1 0W40 which may explain it.

Most worryingly, when I was stuck in traffic on the way home on the M1, I started to hear a grinding/clunking noise from the front while idling in gear with the clutch down. It only happened once when the oil temp was up at 120 degrees, and went away as soon as the revs got past 2000rpm. I'm not sure what to make of it, but I'm putting it down to the clutch for now (fingers crossed!) which slips occasionally in 4th and 5th and will need replacing soon. Could also be the bottom end, though I've had no problems at all since then, and no other signs of a failure. Still, at 162k miles, I'm thinking that a bottom end rebuild may be on the cards anyway, sooner rather than later.

Last week I was away, so I asked my folks to take it into the garage for a few jobs. He did the cambelt, water pump, thermostat and gear linkage. He also messed about with the CO and idle, and the car is a lot smoother now, and smells even less, though I could swear it doesn't pull quite as well (I may just be getting used to the power). I've also done the dizzy oil seal, changed the rotor arm, cap, leads and plugs, and put in a K&N panel filter. I was going to change the oil and filter, but discovered that the sump was rotten, so I'm going to get a new sump first.

I've covered a fair few miles to pick up some parts. I went to pick up a few parts from a guy in Derbyshire for the 16v, only to find he also had a bonnet and grille in Pearl Grey (both bits that need replacing on the 8v). So I had those too.

The grille was in pretty good condition, and the spots were perfect, so I decided to swap it for the grille on the 16v. I also repainted the red stripe in Tornado Red, which took about 1 hour to mask up and 20 seconds to spray paint! Looks good now though.

I went to pick up a headlining when I was down in Reading. Note to anyone travelling to pick up a headlining in your MK2: It does just about fit in the back of the car, but these things fall apat when you even breathe on them, so don't keep them in the back of your car any longer than you have to. Unfortunately I wasn't returning home for another three days and by the last day the headlining was starting to suffer. I eventually got round to fitting it, and it doesn't look to bad - a tiny sag around the rear view mirror, but a hell of a lot better than the old one. Unfortunately I broke a c-pillar and b-pillar trim in the process, but I guess it was a small price to pay!

I also picked up a genuine steering wheel and boss from the same guy. This had to be the best improvement I have made so far to make the car feel Golf-like again. With the aftermarket steering wheel the car felt okay but a little unfamiliar, but once the original wheel was back in again, it felt like a Golf again :-)

I have to say that the handling on this car is much better than that on my 8v, and the ride is much better. I guess the 8v is due a major overhaul and a set of new bushes and mounts.

Last weekend I went to visit my 8v which is currently holed up in my gf's parents' garage. I went to start stripping down the front end ready of the 8v for the bodyshop, but I also decided to raid it for a few parts :-)

I swapped the wheels over, as the RAs on the 16v look a little worse for wear. The rims are probably in better shape on the 16v, but the paint had worn badly. Plus the 8v had a full set of nearly new Toyo Proxes T1Rs, so it was an easy decision. I also swapped over the Golf ball gearknobs, stole the GolfGTI and VW rear badges, VW floor mats, VW first aid kit, and front door speaker covers. I was going to swap the centre console but ran out of time. I'm hoping to get the 8v repaired, so I don't want to take too much.

I'm going to slow down a little now. The car is now running pretty well and most of the work I need to do is on the bodywork. Panels in Royal Blue are proving hard to come by, so I may bite the bullet and get a pattern bumper from Big Boys Toys next week, and some paint from VW. I want to give the car a full detail too, but it seems pointless if I'm planning to replace some panels soon. After the 8v has been in the bodyshop for a jig, I may book the 16v in too to get all the dents sorted out.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 June 2010, 01:17
Door speakers now installed and working  :smiley: I was quite surprised that the original door membranes were still sealed along the sides and at the bottom.

No progress on Royal Blue parts yet. Found a decent tailgate but it was off a GL, and I couldn't justify the cost of the tailgate+GTI glass and spoiler (some of the heater elements have gone on mine)+vinyl decal, and a 100 mile round trip to pick it up. Unfortuately someone has 'welcomed' my new car to the street with a 3 foot key scratch down the passenger side, from about halfway along the door right to the rear light. Some of it is through the lacquer and into the paint too. They then obviously realised it wasn't deep enough so did another scratch, about 3 inches long on the door and rear panel, down to the primer. I was considering a full respray at some point in the near future but there's really no point if they're going to keep keying it (my 8v was keyed too a few months ago).

In better news, I realised that the groaning noise coming from the engine is probably the radiator fan. I first realised when I turned the engine off the other day, and heard a loud grinding noise from the front after the engine had stopped. Then I read a thread in the MK2 section about a guy with the same problem, which confirmed it. I turned it by hand with the engine off, and it doesn't turn smoothly at all, so I guess a new one of those needs to be added to the list

More pics coming soon...
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 09 June 2010, 00:36
More pics as promised  :smiley:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070181.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070182.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070184.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070183.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070186.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070185.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070180.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070187.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070188.jpg)



(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%202/P6070189.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 14 June 2010, 21:28
I have quite a lot of new parts lying around the house now, but unfortunately I've been away a lot with work recently, and not had time to fit them.

I managed to pick up a 3-door rainbow interior in better condition than mine, and the passenger bolster was perfect. So I did a bit of surgery on the seats - I swapped the perfect passenger bolster onto the driver's seat, and used a spare bolster I had on the passenger side. The spare bolster isn't perfect, but was the best one I had left, so on it went. I put some gaffer tape across the foam while it was off the frame, just to try and stop the bolsters wearing more, and to protect them.

I also had a mint rear bench, so I decided that I would fit that in place of the one on my car with the headrests. I like the rear headrests, but they're not original ones (though the person who fitted them did a good job), and they're a pain in the ass when you try to fold the rear seats down.

I vacuumed the seats, and used the Vax and some Biobrisk on them, before swapping them over. It was a 30 minute job - would have been lsess, but I decided to vacuum the carpets while the seats were out. The interior is looking pretty good now.

On Saturday, I decided to give the outside a good clean. I degreased the car with G101, cleaned the wheels and under the arches, washed and dried the car, then clayed it. Unfortunately I ran out of lubricant halfway around, but there wasn't much I could do about that.

I then set to work with the G220 polisher and some fairly harsh polishing compound to get rid of some of the swirls and scratches. It took ages, and I had to keep moving the car to keep the bit I was working on in the shade, but I got there in the end. Then, finally a coat of Smart WAX to finish her off. Looking a lot better now:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140190.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140191.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140192.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140193.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140194.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%203/P6140195.jpg)

Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 24 June 2010, 11:42
A bit more progress over the last 10 days, but as always it feels like one step forwards, two steps back..

The electric windows stopped working just after my last post - both of them. Luckily they were up at the time. The radio also stopped working.

My new centre console arrived while I was away last week - the one that was in the car when I got it looked a little dodgy, as the panel was sticking out beyond the console, and the switches were in the middle, rather than being on the outside. So I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone, and swap the console at the same time as fixing the windows.

The electric windows had obviously been retrofitted. I traced the wiring back to the fusebox, and located an in-line fuse that I thought was the culprit. Then I discovered that the live feed for the windows was spliced to the wrong part of the fusebox, and was getting its feed off the live for the heated rear window. I tested the heated window, and it didn't work. A quick check, and one blackened fuse replaced, and I had working windows again. And the stereo was working again too - really don't know how that's been wired up... but it works now at least.

I plan to get the wiring for the stereo and windows sorted properly at some point and get the proper loom for the windows, but it all works for now.

Finally, the earth wire between the two window switches was too short for me to put the switches in the two outer spaces in the console. So I spliced in a bit of wire, and now all is well  :smiley:

I then set to work on the rear wiper. It does kind of work, but only wipes about 1/3 of a cycle at a time. I have changed the relay, motor and linkage (which was seized before I replaced it), with no luck. So this time I was looking at the wiring.

I popped off the rubber boot between the taligate and body, and the problem was right there in front of me - someone had messed with the wiring. To be fair I guess the wires had broken, and someone had fixed them, using some new wire, and some block terminals. One of the wires had come out of the block terminal. I put it back, tightened it extra tight, and hey presto! - one working wiper. I adjusted it all up to make sure it was in the right place, and it's spot on now.

I've also been collection bits of interior trim, and now was a good chance to replace the bits that I had butchered when changing the headlining. I finally managed to secure the bit that was hanging loose at the back (the bit that holds the back of the headlining up), and I swapped over the broken C-pillar and B-pillar trims on the passenger side. I also found the pivot washer for the rear seatbelt which I had previously lost, so that works properly too now.

That's about all for now. I've still got a lot of parts waiting to go on, but I'm running out of the easy jobs to do.

I got a new alarm immobiliser fitted last week - I went for the Toad AI606 following recommendations of the forum. I was going to go for a shock sensor, but don't want it to go off every two minutes, so I stuck with the standard offering. But I've got remote central locking now, so I'm happy
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 26 June 2010, 16:49
I woke up this morning thinking 'I want to do some work on the car'. I looked in my parts emporium to see what I could do. Not much unfortunately - I have a new sump to go on, but that will have to wait until I can get some off road space, or I can take it to a garage. Same goes for the new gearbox oil (some Redline MTL to attempt to hide the second gear crunch when cold!). I've also got a new clutch to put in, but I don't think I'm brave to attempt that myself.

Then I found a new cam cover gasket, so I decided that replacing my leaky seal was going to be the job for today. I also have a repacement ISV which I had cleaned last week, so I would give that a go too.

ISV was easy - one connector off, two pipes off, then swap and reconnect everything.

Got the inlet manifold off okay, and the cam cover was a doddle too. The new gasket was a genuine VAG part and fit like a glove  :smiley:

When putting everything back together, I found a vac pipe that didn't seem to connect to anywhere. (see: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=159333.0 ) Everything was connected up properly, and the car ran okay with it disconnected. I decided in the end to plug it and the car seems a little smoother now (possibly the ISV), smells far less rich, though possibly a touch down on power. If that pipe wasn't connected last time the CO was set about a month ago it probably threw the settings a fair way out. Time to take it in to be set again...

I gave the inlet manifold a bit of the clean around the oil cap, where some owners (me included  :embarassed:) have spilt a bit of oil over the years when topping up. I also cleaned up the oil that had previously leaked out of the cam cover gasket.

Now I was into the swing of things, I decided to look for other things to do. I felt brave, so I took the battery out to see what sort of state the inner wing was in. Turns out it was quite good actually. Most of it was okay, with a couple of rust spots. I tried to put my finger through the biggest one, but it was pretty solid. I gave the whole area a good degrease and then a blast with the hose, before wiping up the exces water and letting it dry in the sun. I'll add the inner wing to list of touch-up repairs for the body shop - may as well treat the problme now before it gets worse.

Next I had a look at the bumper again. The iron is broken, so I had previously fixed it up with cable ties in an attempt to make it look straight. It was looking pretty bent again now though, and I discovered my cable-tie arrangement had snapped. Time for a new cable-tie! I mounted it a little better this time though, and it looks a lot straighter this time. I've actually got a couple of new front bumpers from BBT at my parents which I need to pick up at some point. For good measure I soaked the bumper bolts in WD40 - hopefully it should start to loosen them a little for when it is time to change the bumper.

Finally another wash and another coat of Smart WAX. I had wanted to put two coats of wax on in my mega detail a couple of weeks ago but didn't have time, so this should sort me know for a couple of months :smiley:
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 03 July 2010, 00:26
I'VE FOUND THE PANELS I NEED! I'm collecting them tomorrow. It's actually from a guy who is breaking one of the other Royal Blue valvers I looked at before I bought mine. The car had been a Cat C write-off, and the owner never knew (or claims to have never known). The guy who bought it wanted to do it up, but couldn't justify throwing money at it that he would never get back, so is stripping it. From what I remember, the bonnet and driver's wing are mint, as these were replaced after the write-off a couple of years ago, and I'm assured the other panels I'm after are in excellent condition too. The car also had some colour coded mirrors, so I'm having them too.

My folks are also bringing over the big front bumpers I've got, so it's all starting to come together now.

As for other parts, I picked up a standard downpipe and manifold this week. I found that the manifold had a crack in it when I got home, but I wasn't too fussed as I don't need it, the downpipe is nearly new and I got it all quite cheap.

So I'm at the point where I have pretty much all the parts I need!!

Due to the lack of a drive, garage or workshop, I'm going to book it into a garage in the coming weeks for the following:
-Change clutch
-Replace downpipe
-Replace sump
-Oil and filter change
-Change gearbox oil
-New brake fluid
-New PAS fluid
-Set CO and timing, test k-jet system and check for vac leaks.

I'd better get my wallet out....

The car has been better since I plugged the random vac pipe last week and changed the ISV, but the idle started racing a little yesterday when the engine was hot. Seemd okay again today.

Then this afternoon the lock on my driver's door went a bit crazy (see http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=159944.0) but at least I'm not locked out and can still open the driver's door!
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 03 July 2010, 00:44
I also spent some time looking at the sunroof deflector. Most Golfs I've seen have rusty deflectors from stone chips, and I don't know about anyone else, but it really bugs me when the car is nice and clean, but the deflector looks ratty.

I suspect that these were powder coated, but unfortunately I like most don't have the equipment for this, so I decided to repaint it instead!

It's my first attempt, so be nice!

Here is how it all started:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7020215.jpg)

First I had a go at the rust spots with a drill with a wire wheel attachment, and then I sanded back to the metal, using a handheld electric sander:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7020216.jpg)

This left the deflector nice and smooth, but with still a bit of surface rust about. So next I treated the whole deflector with Kurust:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7020217.jpg)

After the Kurust had worked its magic I sanded down with some wet 1200 grit paper to leave an ultra smooth finish, ready for painting

So next was where it went a little wrong. I cleaned the surface, then once dry and warm in the sun I applied the (shaken) primer. Unfortunately I laid it on a little too thick, and got a bit of run. I managed to sand back most of it okay, but a little bit is still just about visible. Really annoying though that I did all that prep work and it was ruined by a moment of madness where I should have known better  :angry:

I put on a few coats, letting it dry each time, then sanded back with some wet 1200 grit to prepare for the colour.

I used black satin from Halfords, which gets pretty close to the original colour. I gave it a couple of coats, but then DISASTER! I urned it over before it was 100% dry, and a tiny piece stuck to the cardboard. When I lifted it, it took off about 2sq mm of pain and primer, right to the metal. So I spent the next 30 minutes trying to sand the surrounding area back to the primer, then masking, and respraying the primer. Didn't work out too bad in the end, I went over the join with 1200 grit and managed to get rid of it, then gave a couple of coats of black.

I felt the surface, and it was okay, though a tiny bit rough. So I cut back the whole deflector with my favourite 1200 grit, before giving one more coat. Once dry it was as smooth as a baby's bottom!

To finish it off, I gave it a coat of smart wax, which may protect the paint a little. Et viola:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7040220.jpg)

Not perfect, but I've learnt a lot of lessons, and am eagar to try something else to improve my technique! Slam panel, here we come?
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 04 July 2010, 18:43
As mentioned a couple of days ago, I managed to find some Royal Blue panels. Well, I say some, in the end I got:
-Bonnet
-Driver's wing
-Driver's door
-Sunroof
-Filler flap
-Tailgate
-Colour-coded mirrors

The bonnet is almost mint, with only a couple of stone chips. I swapped the bonnet and the door today. The bonnet was easy once the washer jets were disconnected, and the door wasn't bad either. With the door, I had some problems with changing the handle. I have a replacement new handle but it is slightly different to the one that came off! I spent an hour trying to get it to fit before giving up and putting the old one back on. That's pattern parts for you...

Also, some random nut and bolt was in place where the central locking vac pump was supposed to be. The nut was already badly rounded and almost seized, and after a few minutes of cursing and swearing, I managed to force a torx socket onto it. I started to undo it, and luckily the bolt snapped before the nut, so out it came!

I can't believe what a difference the bonnet makes. It is now starting to look like a really, really nice car. Once the bumper is changed, it will look really nice from the front.

I was going to do the tailgate, but the vinyl decal is missing. I think this is because it has a colour-coded spoiler. I'm really torn now - I want the standard look, but the decal-less tailgate and colour-coded spoiler look nice too. I think the standard look is going to win, but only just...

The new door closes with a really satisfactory 'thud' now - no rattles at all.

Here are some pics of the handiwork:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7050227.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7050226.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7050221.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 12 July 2010, 17:01
Yesterday was one of those days where I had planned to spend a couple of hours working on the car, with a quite short list of jobs to do. The reality was that I spent 7 hours on it in total, and ended up missing the Grand Prix.

The plan was to:
-Swap the tailgate over
-Replace the driver's door inner weather seal
-Fix the sag in the door card with some fibreglass
-Replace the driver's door handle
-put some tape over the cracks in the airbox rubber boot

First the tailgate...
I started work on the tailgate last week. The tailgate I picked up a couple of weeks ago had no vinyl strip on it, so needed to fit a new one. I lined it up and realised the glass was going to have to come out. It actually wasn't too tricky, but it left me with a massive blister on my finger. First I pulled the plugs for the heated rear screen and then I came at it from the inside, getting my fingers behind the seal, and the pushing the seal under the lip on the tailgate. Once I was about two-thirds the way round, it popped out.

I gave the area where the seal would go a really good clean with some G101, and then some paint prep wipes just to make sure. I enlisted my girlfriend's help.

The vinyl strip was one piece, so we decided to cut into the backing in the middle, and start from where the holes were. We worked our way out on both sides slowly, trying our best not to trap any air bubbles. When we did, we had to peel back and relay. We found that our first attempt ended up really wonky, and had to peel back and start again. Eventually on the third attempt, we had it relatively straight, but still about 0.5cm difference in height from the right to the left. Also there were a couple of air bubbles despite our best efforts, so we went around with a pin, bursting them and flattening the sticker. Except for the height difference it came out okay in the end but it was a pig of a job.

I took the plinth off and number plate lights, and gave the tailgate a good clean, clay, polish and wax while it was off the car. I was sure I would get some grubby hand marks over it while fitting it, but the idea was to clean up and protect the areas behind the number plate, plinth and spoiler which wouldn't see daylight again for several years.

This was all before yesterday. I decided to leave the glass out to fit the tailgate. The tailgate already had he loom in, so I decided to use that and replace my heavily chopped loom in the car.

So the first task was to disconnect the loom and pipes. These run into the roof, and then down the C-pillar, and connect at either side of the boot. So I removed the c-pillar trim and parcel shelf supports, and pulled back the carpets to expose the wires. I located the plugs and an earth point, so disconnected these. I then disconnected the washer jet pipe and vac pipe from the other side, along with another earth wire.

Pulling the loom up from the c-pillar was actually easier than I thought it would be, but the foam surrounded the loom just disintergrated when touched. I managed to get the plugs out through the hole in the roof one at a time and soon, all was disconnected.

Next I loosened the 4 bolts holding the tailgate to the hinges. I didn't remove them - yet as I needed them to hold the tailgate in place.

Then cue my girlfriend to give me a hand again! I asked her to support the tailgate while I undid the boot lifters - in a moment of madness I disconnected them at the car side rather than the tailgate side. Not a problem, but just creating more work for myself.

With my girlfriend supporting the tailgate I removed the bolts and we lifted it from the car.

So far, so good.

I considered building up the new tailgate while it was off the car, but then realised that this may make the task of fitting the tailgate to the car a lot harder. So I pushed on (after refitting the boot lifters to the car), and got my girlfriend to support the (very light) tailgate while I tried to get the bolts in. This was a nightmare, and I was so glad I didn't try to do it with the glass, motors and everything else fitted. I connected the lifters first to help out my girlfriend,  and after fumbling around for about 15 minutes I finally got a bolt in on either side. Now it was 'on' I could relieve my girlfriend, and press on. The other bolts went in okay, and I tightened them up.

The first job I thought was to get the loom connected up. I thought this would be a nightmare, but it was actually really easy. I pushed it into the roof of the car, and it seemed to find its own way down the c-pillar, with just a bit of coaxing here and there. I connected up the wires, and was going well.

What I should have realised was that there is a set order that you should use when building up the tailgate. I wasted so much time fitting things, only to have to remove them again a few minutes later. Here is the order you should build it up:
-Fit Washer jet and connect pipe
-Boot lock (just in case you close it)
-central locking pump and mechanism and connect pipe
-window (can do this afterwards, but I liked to get it out of the way early)
-fit number plate lights (and test!)
-fix loom to tailgate using clips
-install wiper motor and connect
-install wiper linkage and calibrate
-attach plinth
-attach spoiler to glass
-attach rear demister plugs
-fit cover panel

And job is done! Make sure you test as you go - You don't want a fully fitted tailgate before you realise the washer jet isn't working.

Also, a word of warning with the washer jet - make sure the pipe is on tight at both the c-pillar and the jet itself - the last thing you want is screenwash leaking into your boot!

For the window, I used the string trick, which worked pretty well. I tied some string around the seal, fitted the window over the opening, and then pulled the string out, thus pulling the seal over the lip of the lid. It took about 20 minutes, stopping often and pushing down on the glass over the bits you've done to set it correctly and make the next section easier.

Finally, I reassembled the rear interior, but managed to lose a spanner as I dropped it down the side into the chassis! Luckly it's not rattling around in there..

Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 30 July 2010, 18:00
I've not really done much to the car over the last couple of weeks, though my front bumper is now painted up and ready to go on once I pluck up the courage to tackle the bolts on the old bumper...

It went into the garage yesterday for a few jobs:
-New clutch
-New Downpipe
-New sump

The mechanic noticed that the diff was really wobbly when replacing the clutch, so it looks like the gearbox is on its way out. Hopefully I've managed to find a replacement box.

The new parts have made a big difference. The gearchange (and drive) is smoother, the whole car is quieter, and it doesn't smell quite so bad anymore. Also, there seems to be a lot more power low down.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 August 2010, 17:12
I've had a week off work this week, so I decided to tackle the dreaded front bumper and driver's wing.

The front bumper is hanging low at one side, and after further investigation it was discovered that the bumper bracket had actually snapped on that side. The bumper also needed repainting, so I decided to buy a new pattern bumper from Big Boys Toys. They're not cheap, but they're apparently the best quality you can get, other than OEM.

It certainly looked the part when it arrived. The bracket seemed a little on the thin side, though I didn't have a genuine one to compare it to.

I had previously painted the bumper on my now-dead 8v, though I did it with the bumper on the car, as I had a nightmare with the bumper bolts and captive nuts. The job came out okay in the end, though I couldn't get a high gloss finish and the paint peeled again after about 6 months (even though I used plastic primer). I read up about how to improve my technique, and was hopeful that it would be better this time.

I rang VW for the paint. I only got one paint pack last time, and it was nowhere near enough, so this time I wanted four. The dealers said they didn't do the paint for my car anymore, but maybe the bodyshop could mix it up. However it turned out that they could only mix it if they were going to spray it themselves, for which they wanted £200  :shocked:

I had heard good things about Paints4U, so I tried them. I phoned them for advice on spraying a bumper, and they recommended a plastic primer, and then a basecoat repair kit in my colour. I ordered an extra can of colour for good measure, along with some touch up pots - since they would mix all the paint at the same time, it seemed to make sense.

Once the paint had arrived I set to work.

The first task was to rub some wet 1200 grit paper over the bumper. This would take off any protectant, and also key the surface slightly, ready for the primer. I then washed it in G101, before masking up. Masking  took about  an hour in total – it’s something you really have to get right to do a good job. Then I was ready to spray!

I sprayed the plastic primer first, one thin coat over the bumper and let it dry. Next came the proper primer – I sprayed in thin coats – about 4 in total. Once the last coat had dried, I took the bumper outside to rub down the whole primered bit with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish.

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7110231.jpg)

Next it was time for the colour coat! Again, I built this up slowly in layers, with about 4-5 coats in total. It was obvious by the 3rd coat that I was spraying a little too thinly, so I upped it a bit for the last two coats.

I let this dry for a couple of hours, then came back to it for the clear coat. I added a couple of light layers of lacquer, before one thick layer at the end. There is a very fine line with getting the right amount of lacquer for a good finish. If you put it on too thinly, it will take ages to get a gloss finish, if you put it on too thick then it will run. If you get it just right, you will get a good, non-running finish.

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7110232.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P7110234.jpg)

Well, I got it almost right. It ran a tiny bit, but it was not very visible.

Then I left it for two weeks for the lacquer to harden.

The last stage was to rub down the whole bumper with some wet 2000 grit paper. Next, I set to work on the bumper with the DA polisher (masking the black plastic first) to get that high-sheen finish. I discovered that I had to go back and re-sand a couple of times as the finish wasn’t glossy enough at first, but I got there in the end.  In a couple of small, unnoticeable places I took off a little bit too much, but patched it up with a bit of touch-up lacquer.

And finally it was ready to go on!

My biggest tip is don't do this in the house if you have a violent and pregnant girlfriend!
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 August 2010, 17:35
The replacement wing I have isn't perfect but it is a genuine wing and in the right colour.

Someone has rolled the arch in the past and cracked the paint, without bothering to repair it, so it is rusting a little there. There is also a bit of rust on the bottom of the wing, though it is all structually solid. The plan was to treat the rust and repaint the rusty bits, but I decided that there was too much to make it worthwhile, especially since none of the rust was anywhere near visible. Instead, I'll look out for a wing in better condition, and fit this one to the car.

The wing had also had a little paint on the top edge, near the front. Curiously, it was down to the metal, and someone just lacquered straight over the bare metal! I was going t leave that too, but then the neat freak in me took over...

I sanded back the lacquer from around the area,and then sanded back some colour too, back to the primer. I primered over the area with the bare metal, then built up the colour on top of that. I then took the lacquer back a bit more over a wider area to try to blend it in.

Once the lacquer had hardened, I cut back with some 2000 grit and polished it up.

The job wasn't perfect, but it wasn't bad. I need some more time on it with the polisher I think, and maybe another coat of lacquer.

But I was running out of time... I needed to get the wing on the car, so any further touch ups will have to be done in-situ.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 August 2010, 18:20
So D-Day had arrived! Time to swap over the front bumper, and driver’s wing. I was worried not only about getting the old parts off, but also about what horrors I may have found underneath.

I have got myself a little lock-up garage on a housing estate – it’s not ideal but beats working on the street or having to borrow my girlfriends’ parents’ drive. I would have liked some pictures, but I forgot the big camera and it was too dark for my phone camera  - sorry!

I set to work on trying to remove the old bumper. I had come prepared with a 24” ½” drive breaker bar. To my surprise, three of the bolts came out easily! The bumper then dropped off – because the bracket had broken, it was only held on by three of the bolts.

I had a lot of fun and games with the last bolt. The bracket had rusted away to almost nothing, so I was left with a bolt turning freely with the captive nut and remains of the bracket inside the chassis leg. Because it was the furthest bolt from the front, it was a little awkward to get to.

I tried to get a spanner/socket over the nut, but it had worn pretty badly, and I could only get a 16mm socket part way over it. With the torque needed to release the bolt, the socket just slipped off the nut every time. I also tried to get some mole grips around the nut, but they were too big to work with in the chassis leg.

I posted my experiences here: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=162590.0

I decided to get the bolt extractors, and had another go the next day. The extractor gripped straight away and I had the bolt out, intact, in 5 minutes!

I stripped the old bumper down and fixed the fog lights into the new one. The front splitter was awkward to remove – I don’t think the clips are designed to be taken out again, so I pretty much destroyed the old bumper trying to get the splitter off.

It also had to be worked into the new bumper. A tip here is to line it all up first, and then only push the clips in once all the holes are aligned. The biggest problems were the clips on the corners, but once they’re lined up, the others usually follow.

Next, I had to take the old wing off. This is actually a lot more straight-forward than I had anticipated. I jacked the car up first and removed the front wheel to give myself some room. Next I removed the arch trim by drilling out the (remaining) rivets. Then the arch liner comes out – this is held on with several 8mm bolts, both on the arch and the inner wing.

Now I could tackle the wing itself. First, I undid all the bolts along the top, and then a bolt next to the bumper support, and one at the front. This leaves you with three bolts on the A-pillar side. The bolts were covered in thick underseal, so I used the new wings for reference to find out where the bolts were. I used a flat screwdriver to carefully peel back the underseal from around the bolts until I could get a socket over them. Two bolts bolt into the bulkhead, and another is at the bottom. Once all the bolts are out I pulled at the wing (the old wing was scrap). The underseal broke at the edge of the wing, and I just peeled it off the car.

The old wing was completely shot. It looks like a pattern part (no VW stamps), though whoever had replaced it had done a good job with the underseal (just a shame they didn’t use a quality part!). The arch had almost disintegrated.

The inner wing looks very healthy, with no obvious signs of rust.

Refitting was the reverse of removal! There is some adjustment in the positioning in the wing, so I carefully made sure that everything lined up perfectly and the panel gaps were correct. I had to push the wing inwards while bolting it up to keep it straight, but it is spot on now. Also I had to make sure that the roof drain hole was threaded through the new wing properly (I forgot this at first and had to unbolt and start again).

Next I replaced the wheel arch. I had never used a rivet gun before, so it took me a while to work it out, but I got there in the end! I gave the join between the wing and inner wing a coat or two of Waxoyl (though I may revisit this to give it something more substatial). Finally, I replaced the arch lining. I checked the panel gaps once more, and everything looks good!

Next, it was time to refit the bumper. This is one job I did not enjoy. I really struggled to get the bumper bracket holes lined up properly. A couple of times I thought I had it, then realised I didn’t.

I sprayed the brackets and inside the chassis leg with Waxoyl before I started,

Got there in the end though. The best way to do it is to slide the bumper brackets into the chassis legs. Next, go to each side, and manoeuvre the bumper so that it slides onto the wing brackets. On my first attempt I tried to fasten the front bolts first – this only ends in pain. Go for the back ones – if you do the front ones first, the bracket will bend slightly and the bumper will pivot on the bolt meaning you’ll never find the back hole. Feel around for the hole in the bracket with the bolt, and once you find it, start to tighten it. Ideally, you want all four bolts in before you tighten them, but don’t be scared of giving each bolt a few turns with a socket to make sure it’s in properly. You don’t want to have just got the last bolt in, for the first one to fall out again! If at any point you suspect the wing bracket has slipped out, stop, and start that side again – you’ll never get the wing support in properly after the bolts are in.

Finally, tighten up all the bolts, real tight. I used the same breaker bar to tighten ¼ turn more once I had tightened as much as I could with the ratchet.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 August 2010, 18:27
Pics of the finished article  :smiley:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/P8070333.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/P8070337.jpg)

Paint on the wing needs some touch-up but at least it isn't rotten!
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 16 August 2010, 13:33
I also had a look at the rear bumper. It was wonky on both sides, so I assumed the clips weren't in the runners properly.

The bumper came off really easily - didn't even need the breaker bar! Strangely, only 3 out of the 4 bolts were present, so I need to get another bolt...

It turned out that the side mounting clips were in fact broken. I had got a replacement bumper in the same colour a couple of months ago, but it had a hole cut out for a towbar under the bumper (which you can only really see if you're under the car), and it also had a number of light scratches.

Rather than deal with the hassle of trying to swap the side mounting clips over, I decided to just swap the bumpers. The one that had been on the car had some pretty deep scratches on one side anyway.

Bumper fitted on easily - no messing around lining up the holes like last time! Looks good now and hangs properly at the back now - I'll post pics soon
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 16 August 2010, 13:58
I also got my crach damaged 8v back last week, so that is now stored in the lock-up. I've decided to raid it for a few more parts...

-hard plastic scuttle panel and ECU cover
-wheel arch trims (to replace any that are scratched on mine)
-plastic clutch pedal 'stop'
-runout horn push
-electric windows loom

I want to get the BBS RAs off it too and send them for a refurb (they were actually originally from the 16v, but I swapped them over as the ones on the 8v looked better).

Next plans for the car are to get it booked in to the garage to get the replacement gearbox fitted, and then into the bodyshop to take out the dents and treat the rust spots. Depending on the quality of their work, I may consider a respray once I can afford it!

Most of my attention at the moment is on stripping the 8v.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 19 August 2010, 19:24
Another quick update...

The car is booked in to fit the new gearbox in September - just hope it lasts until then! I've also booked it into a reputable local bodyshop to take the dent out of the left side, and touch up a few more places.

I finally fitted an uprated headlight loom. My 8v had quite a decent plug and play uprated loom, so I decided to use that.

Really easy to fit, as the uprated loom contained the plugs I needed to avoid chopping the original wiring. Works really well, but I could only get the dipped beam and full beam working. Then I remembered something about the MK2  having something where the main bulbs came on dimly with the sidelights - surely if the original wire feed was acting as a signal wire only, this could be the cause?

A quick search for 'dim dip resistor' on the forum answered the question, so I disconnected the resistor and the sidelights are fine now! The uprated loom makes a huge difference to the lights and is recommended to anyone who hasn't already done it.

I'm still removing parts from the 8v, and I occasionally come across random parts I want for the valver... I took all the parts listed in the last post (except the wheel arch trims and electric windows loom as that will have to wait until the dash is out  :sad: ). The hard scuttle cover cleaned up really well, and tidied up the engine bay.

I've also taken:
-Heater controls panel (with red, not orange-pink detail on the warm air mixer!)
-C-pillar trim screws and screw covers (it's the small things)
-Straight-thru heater pipes (not yet fitted)

The 8v is looking a bit sorry for itself now  :cry:



Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 23 August 2010, 16:02
My old 8v is almost stripped.

I decided that with our baby being due any time, I wanted to hurry things up a bit with the breaking, so I decided to sell the shell, engine, gearbox, brakes, exhaust and running gear together as a GTI conversion donor car. I may have found a buyer already, so the lockup will be free again soon.

I've sold most of the panels off it, and the interior is now pretty much stripped too. Not bad to say I've done it in 10 days, only working on it in the evenings and weekends!

Once the shell is gone, it'll give me a bit of time to do a couple of jobs to the valver:
-replace heater matrix bypass valves with straight-thru pipes
-fit correct electric windows loom (this could be a nightmare)
-Replace right hand foglight as there is condensation in it
-Replace slam panel and

Then the next thing going in the garage is another little project - a 1985 8v GTI in Atlas Grey
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 01 September 2010, 23:58
What a week..

My crash-damaged 8v was stripped for everything except the conversion bits. The shell/conversion has also been sold and was picked up on Sunday  :cry: At least now I have an empty lockup again.

The 16v has had nothing else done to it except for a wash, but I have managed to break the central locking. It started with the pump buzzing in short spurts when the doors were locked, then the c/l would no longer unlock from the remote fob - just from the driver's door itself (it would still lock on the fob). Then one day I put the key in the door to unlock it, and it wouldn't turn, and then *SNAP* I heard something break in the door, and just the driver's door unlocked. The fob then operated the c/l on all doors except the driver's for a couple of days, but now it has completely given up. So that's my first job. Also quite a lot of other things to do when I have the time.

The 1985 GTI 8v will be coming soon - my dad has lost interest in it, and is giving his half of the project to me FOC.

And to top it all, I got another little project last Monday, weighing in at 8lb 4oz  :smiley:
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 04 September 2010, 18:59
I managed to get a couple of hours on this yesterday.

First of all, I tried to tackle the running problems. The car has been running lean and knocking for the last couple of weeks, but due to the condition of the airbox boot and the breathers, there was no point getting it retuned. So the first task was to replace worn rubber piping.

The airbox boot was slightly different, but I managed to fit it okay in the end. The boot that came off was splt and cracked in the folds, and a trail of gunk showed where it had been leaking on the underside. The ISV breather was swapped as it was covered in electrical tape, which suggested another leak. Finally the crank breather was changed - this was filled with gunk, and the rubber was very very soft and split in a couple of places. Changing these has definitely made a difference as the car struggles to idle when cold now. This isn't ideal, but at least it shows that the new parts have made a difference.

Next I looked at the central locking. I had a bit of a nightmare on Thursday, as I went to get some fuel and realise the petrol flap was locked and the central locking just wasn't working anymore (I didn't know about the lever behind the boot carpet). I ended up limping home on vapours before working out how to open the flap.

I had heard something snap in the driver's door, so that was the place to start. I took the door card off (again) and found the rod between the lock and c/l pump disconnected. I operated the rod by hand, and it worked again, but the pump was still whirring a little when locked. I suspected a leak in the system, so started in the boot with the pump itself. I disconnected the vac piping, covered the air hole in the pump, and operated the pump. It still made the whirring noise so it looked like I had found the problem! I switched the pump for a spare one, and problem solved!

My last job was to work out why the idle increase with the lights turned on. I started off by just swapping the idle control unit under the centre console, but the problem remained. I suspec the issue is in the wiring somewhere, but I didn't have time to start looking at that so left it there.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 21 September 2010, 22:06
It's been a few weeks since the last update, but things definitely haven't been standing still

I took a camera with me today to get a few pictures, but forgot the memory card, so you'll have to make do with a couple of poor quality pics from my phone:

Sorting out the wiring issues (wiring hell...)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/P9120398.jpg)

A couple of upgrades

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0023.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0024.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 21 September 2010, 22:08
Idle problems with lights turned on
I took the lower dash apart and pulled out the centre console to get a better look at the ISV controller. I suspected that there must have been some short between the controller loom and the dash lights. I swapped the controller and loom to no avail, then after reading a couple of posts about the ISV controller, I realised that there was a wire connected that really shouldn't have been. A spare green plug is on the loom of the ISV controller, and someone had plugged it into a spare connector coming out of D12 on the fusebox (shared with cigarette lighter illumintation. My suspicions about the dash lights were correct! I unplugged it, and all was fine.

Original Electric windows loom
As previously mentioned, the car had had the electric windows retrofitted. I had already swapped the centre console for the correct one (http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=156881.msg1465363#msg1465363), but was dismayed by the wiring, which was missing the relay and taking its live feed from the rear window demister. I had pulled the electric windows loom out of my 8v, and had it ready to go in.

I decided not to follow the original wire routing, as it actually goes along the top of the bulkhead behind the dash, and I was not in the mood to take out the whole dash for this. So instead, I routed the wiring above the lower dash. It took ages to get all the wiring in. I found the plugs on the mechs were different to those on the loom, so I begrudgingly chopped off the plugs and spliced in the existing connectors.

I managed to wire in the earth and the ignition live feed with no problems, but I couldn't connect the black signal wire as I didn't have anything to connect it to the correct plug and pin in the fusebox. I temporarily reconnected it to the rear window demister until I managed to get a spare D plug connector, complete with wires that I could use to salvage some of the wires and clips. I had to plug into D11 as D9 was taken up by the ISV controller. All is working now - the elecric windows seem to operate better - faster and with no slowdown, though I think it may be me imagining it!

Electric Mirrors
I had wanted these for a while. I think they are one of the luxuries that is quite useful, especially on a daily, as they help with parking. Also, the heating element is useful for those cold and/or damp winter mornings.

I took the lower dash apart again and got behind the fusebox. I had managed to get a 'D' plug from the same car as the mirrors (as mentioned above) so I cut the wire and connector clip out of it and it just plugged straight in. I had to use another ignition live pin in the fusebox (D7 I think as D9 is the ISV controller and D11 is the electric windows) The loom had had to be cut to get it out of the car, so it was spliced back together with a block terminal. I fed the r/hand mirror into the door (doorcard off of course). Space is getting a little tight in the rubber boot between the chassis and door now!

I connected everything up, and tried it out. Nothing. I started testing the components and wiring a bit at a time to figure out what was wrong. Both motors seemed to be okay and I managed to get them working by bridging some of the pins on the plug for the switch, so the wiring checked out. It had to be the switch. I took the switch apart and saw some corrosion on the copper. I gave it a good clean with a wire brush, reassemble and everything worked!

I connected the heated mirrors circuit too - this splices on to the signal wire for the rear demister. It seemed to work too - I could definitley feel the glass getting warmer.

Finally I installed the passenger mirror. This was the easy bit.

Now it was all installed, I decided to re-do the doorcard weather sheet, as it is the last time I plan on going into the doors for a while! I made sure the bottom was watertight, and then sealed around the top and sides.

Headlight range adjustors
These are fairly rare on MK2s, so I thought I'd take a punt on them! The kit was complete with motors, wiring and switch, and the wiring had been helpfully labelled.

The motors were a doddle to install (once the grille is off and the headlight is out of course). You need to remove the manaul adjustor - there are two parts to this, the screw at the front, and the white plastic nut behind the unit. The plastic nut twists to release. I wasn't too bothered about getting it off intact, as I wasn't going to use it again!

Once they were off, the motors just clip on. The loom to the fusebox is alread there, so you just plug and play into the existing wiring.

The switch is a little more complex. The wiring had been custom made, but it was a good effort, using the original colours for the wiring. There were even instructions telling me which wires to splice into on the headlight switch. Unfortunately one of the wires didn't exist on the back of my switch, but I soon found the right one. And now I have working range adjustors!

I have noticed that both the motors on these, and the motors on the mirrors are a little noisy compared to modern cars, but I guess that the technology used on the MK2 is a little more raw.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 21 September 2010, 22:08
CO, idle
Since changing the breaters and the airbox boot, the car has been running like a bag of spanners. To be honest, it had never been running right, but it took a bit of tuning to realise.

Now that I was confident the the ISV was working and the air leaks were fixed, it was time to set the CO and idle.

Having managed to find a long enough 3mm allen key I followed the guide in the MK2 maintenance section (disconnect breather and bung up air box, disconnect red lead for ISV, then set idle to 1000rpm, lean out mixture until car almost stalls, then richen it slowly until you get a smooth idle).

I noticed straight away that the car idled better. I took it for a drive, and what a difference! The car had been pinking before, but now that had gone, and I am no longer fighting with it pulling away from me at low revs.

I think it is still slightly out as it hunts a tiny bit (+/- about 50rpm) sometimes, but it is a lot nicer to drive now. It finally feels like the car it should do.

Replacement gearbox
I picked up a replacement box a while ago, as mine was about to throw its diff. I cleaned it up the best I could, ordered new seals from VW, and then sent it off to a local VW specialist for a swap. The same garage had also done the clutch, so they offered the gearbox swap at a reduced price.

The box feels nice now, a lot smoother, and no 2nd gear crunch like the last one. I had supplied some Redline MTL to the garage so that probably has something to do with it. It's so smooth that I can change gear with one finger!

Replacement glass
My passenger window had a massive chip in it, so I got a replacement pane from another forum, along with a replacement rear screen (the elements for the demister were broken in mine).

I swapped the passenger window over while doing the electric mirrors - it's really easy - just lower the window until you can access the bolts. I removed the window rubber and the inner window scraper to make it easier, and the pane just lifts out. Refitting as always is the reverse of removal.

The rear window is a little more tricky, but I had done it before. You need to work the seal out from the inside until you are about 2/3 the way around, and then you should be able to slide the rest out. I tried using the string trick again to fit the new window, but it didn't work quite so well this time, and I had to fit most of the seal on the new windo by hand.

The elements work fine on the new window but the glass is pretty scratched unfortunately, so I may replace it again in the future.

Speakers
I realised that the right front dash speaker had stopped working. It turned out to be one of the connectors on the speaker itself, but I took the chance to upgrade it to the JBL speaker to match what was on the other side. While testing it, I found out that the rear speakers were wired up the wrong way round (left on right, right on left) so I ventured into the dash once again to sort it out

Grille strip
The colour strip under the grille was the only thing that let down the front of the car now. I had a spare one knocking about, so decided to paint it with the leftover paint from the bumper.

I used the technique that is becoming familiar to me now - I sanded down to the metal, reprimered, sanded down with 1200 grit, then a few coats of colour, followed by several coats of lacquer. I let it harden for a couple of weeks, then flattened with some 2000 grit, before polishing up.

I also managed to find a grille with almost all the clips intact, so gave the trim a coat of tornado red, cleaned it up, and attached the newly painted Royal Blue trim to that. It still has damn eyebrow spoiler holes though.

Replace foglight
There was a lot of condensation in one of the foglights. I had a spare, so decided to replace it. When I removed the old one I was met with a gush of water. Surprisingly the bulb still worked...

Heater hoses
The heater hoses were fitted with a bypass valve, and I decided to remove it before winter came in order to improve my heater. I am pretty sure the matrix has been replaced as loads of foam keeps coming through the vents (the foam on the vent doors is brittle after 20 years, and when you disturb it while replacing the matrix, you end up with it flying through your car for the next 12 months).

In order to lose as little coolant as possible, I went for one pipe at a time. I made sure the new pipe was corked at the matrix end, and then detached the old pipe at the cylinder head. I then put the new pipe on as quickly as possible. Once it was on, I removed the old pipe from the matrix, removed the cork from the new pipe and connected the other end to the matrix. I then did the same for the other pipe. I topped up with water and G12, then bled the system. Now my heater is even hotter!

Bodywork repair
I booked the car into a reputable local bodyshop. There is a big dent on the passenger lower rear quarter, and also the big vandal scratch. In addition, I asked him to sort out the spots of rust near each rear window, and a spot on the rear panel. He told me he would spray the whole rear quarter on the passenger side.

The car was away for 3 days, but I've got it back now and it looks loads better! I think the lacquer could do with a flatten and polish in a couple of weeks though. He did do a couple more bits as well, such as a rust spot on the driver's door, and the scratch on the passenger door, so  was pleased about that. The only one criticism is that it doens't look like he removed the passenger rear window, as there is a small paint defect near the seal. Still, it's a lot better than it was, and I should be able to hold off a full respray for a couple of years.

Roof rubbers
The ones on the car were shot, but I have some in better condition. I asked the paintshop to do the passenger side one, since they were spraying that side anyway. He did it, but told me it was a nightmare job, which didn't exactly fill me with confidence for the driver's side.

I removed the old seal by getting under it at the back with a screwdriver covered by a cloth. I then just peeled it back off the car - I wasn't bothered about damaging the old seal.

I fiddled with the new one for a while, then relaised how to do it.

I started at the back. There are two things to think about when replacing the seal. The first is the bit that fastens to the clips - the bit that's actually on the roof. The other bit fits over the lip on the shell - this is the outer side of the rubber.

I lined up the rubber, then starting at the back, I pushed the side of the rubber over the lip, just enough to get it started (it won't go all the way yet). Next I used a 1/4" drive extension to push down on the roof rubber over each clip, until I heard it click into place. After a couple of clips, I then went back to the start and pulled the side of the rubber outwards while pressing down, to get it completely onto the lip, and have it sitting flush. I did this all the way along, and found it quite easy! The only thing to remember is to feed the end of the rubber on the windscreen side under the wing before you start on the A-pillar clips (i.e. think ahead!)

Exhaust backbox I have managed to pick up a full VAG 16v exhaust system for pretty cheap, and in good condition. The main bit I was bothered about was the backbox, as the Timax one bugs me a little. Unfortunately I snapped the bolt for the rearmost exhaust hanger, so had to go and get it welded on. All done now - the backbox sits a lot better and sounds good too!

I'm sure there are lots of other bits I've done, but that will do for now! I'm taking the family to te seaside tomorrow, so hopefully we'll get a few pics of the car!
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 21 September 2010, 22:17
I've also found a pic of my old 8v I took before she was hauled away. I think the poor lighting adds to the effect  :cry:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0017.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 10 October 2010, 16:30
Been a quiet month this month as far as repairs/upgrades go. The car has probably covered about 1200 miles this month, and has done it all without skipping a beat mechanically. A couple of problems have appeared though:

Reverse lights not working
A coincidence that the gearbox was swapped last month? I think not. I swapped the reverse light switch for the one on the old gearbox, and all works fine now.


Central Locking Issues
The curse of unreliable MK2 central locking struck again. The first I knew about it was when my alarm went off at work. I went to switch it off and everything was normal. Strange... I drove the car later, and the c/locking activated when the engine was on to lock the doors (a feature of the alarm), but when I stopped and parked up, it wouldn't unlock. So I was trapped! I tried the catch, but ended up just pulling the little white tab off its guide again. I eventually got out by lowering the window and unlocking from the outside.

It stayed broken until I got a chance to look at it yestaerday. I fixed the catch in the door (doorcard off AGAIN but just as well as the membrame was leaking) and then tried the central locking. The pump operated again briefly after the car was locked. I took the pump out and moved it a bit and the problem went away. Hmmmm... I just put it all back together and hoped it will be alright now. Which it is. For now...

Got some new photos as promised:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/020-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/027-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/025-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/021-2.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/16v%20photos%204/030.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 10 October 2010, 16:33
Interior:

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/012-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/010-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/007-2.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/006-1.jpg)

(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/003-1.jpg)
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 26 October 2010, 22:51
Another mileage-heavy month, but the car lapped them up like usual.

Drove from Sheffield to London last week and back again, averaging 39mpg on the way down and 35mpg on the way back (M1 Friday traffic slowed me down on the way back). The day after I needed to go to pick up the Corrado, but decided to take the girlfriend's Rover 25, as it only has 46000 miles on the clock, and I didn't want to pile more on the Golf. 10 miles down the M1, and with steam pouring out of the bonnet, I realised I had made a mistake... We limped back home in the Rover, swapped for the Golf and it did another round trip to Milton Keynes and back.

I've not driven it this week as I'm getting my kicks from the Rado at the moment, but the missus has adopted it while the Rover is at the garage (I have a feeling she won't want to give it back).

MOT is due next month though, so not looking forward to that! Can't see why it would fail, but there is always something. Luckily a place in Sheffield does an unbiased test for £50, with a free retest if it is within 14 days (and you can take the car away in that time and repair yourself).

Only other thing that has happened is the central locking pump finally giving up the ghost. The car was locking me in again (seemed to lock okay, but then wouldn't open) so I had another fiddle with the pump. While it was out of the casing I head a fizzing sound from the pump - like it was about to set on fire - so I disconnected. I've found a replacement now and am just waiting for it to arrive - until then it is old skool 'push the catch down when you close the door' rules.
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 November 2010, 10:54
MOT day today! just sent it off and told the missus not to come back without an MOT for the next 12 months!

The place it is going apparently has no interest in failing cars just to get the repair work, and prides itself on this. Also, I can take the car away and re-present for a free retest within 14 days, so I shouldn't have too much to worry about. MOT actually expires on 17th anyway...
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 05 November 2010, 17:56
FAIL!

N/S bottom ball joint was worn and dangerous (oops explains the knocking on the front suspension). They quoted me a repair, and I took it - it wasn't really worth the hassle of me taking the car away, finding space to do the repairs and then taking it back, when they could fit it in this afternoon and retest at the same time.

All done now, she's good for another 12 months! Other than the fail on the ball joint, there were no advisories
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore - RETIRED FROM DAILY SERVICE
Post by: tony_ack on 06 November 2010, 18:10
The car has now officially retired from daily service! The Corrado is newer and better suited over the winter (mmmm... heated leather), even if it is a bit thirsty.

The Golf is now safely and securely tucked away in a dry stoarge space. I'll probably take it out again for a weekend soon as I still have 1/2 tank of fuel that needs using
Title: Re: tony_ack - 16v restore
Post by: tony_ack on 18 January 2011, 21:11
Guess who's back on the road again!?

The Corrado has been good over winter but the near side ball joint has been knocking since I got it (must have caught it off the Golf, see above..)

It came up on the list of notes when the Corrado was serviced, so I decided to book it in to get that, a new track rod and a wishbone bush fitted. The Corrado has never felt particularly tight at the front end, so hopefully this will sort it.

I booked it in for 28th Jan, but since then the ball joint has taken a turn for the worse and the car weaves slightly, but disconcertingly from side to side, so I think it's on its last legs. I'm worried it may not make it to 28th, so I decided to swap it for the Golf.

The Golf hasn't moved for 2 months, so the battery was flat as expected. My missus went to pick it up from the storage place but couldn't get it started and ended up calling the AA. It turned out the alarm/immobiliser had messed itself up and needed to be reset.

Once the alarm was disarmed, it started on the first touch of the key!

I can't believe how much I've missed driving it... it's a lot more rugged than the Corrado, it feels completely square, and has a few more rattles, but it has put the Corrado's (albeit comprimised) handling to shame. That said, the Golf still needs its wheel alignment sorting after the ball joint was replaced. And that noise once it passes 4500rpm...

Even though it's nowhere near as quick as the VR6, it feels so good taking it all the way to the limiter.

One downside though - the driver's side electric window has stopped working - it was working fine before it went into storage, so hopefully it will free up when I look at it. I have a spare, nearly new regulator but I promised it to walchy a couple of days ago, so want to try and fix the one on the car if possible.



Also... stay tuned for an announcement about a debut appearance in a national publication..!