Mk 3 16v speaker question??

[Spam]

Hi Guys, Im deffo not an expert on ice so i need some help...

I have just bought a Pioneer DEH-9600IB to replace the original Kenwood and i want to remove the multi changer in the glove box.

I need speaker info.

I want to replace the x2 in the doors and the x2 in the rear quaters also to add a sub in the boot.

I need to know what the speaker sizes are to replace the original.

Also, what will i need for a 10" sub, i.e. what sort of amp.

Let me know guys if ya can help.

Thanks

Spam...

[Moos3h]

17cm both front and rear (components as standard, but if you want an easy life, you can disconnect the tweeters and just install co-ax).

Just be careful about depth, can cause problems with the grilles going back on (which might not bother you!)

In terms of subs/amps there's two schools of thought regarding power, but the one I subscribe to is that you should ensure you have an amp that is at least as powerful as the RMS handling of the subwoofer - it's  unlikely you'll kill a sub that way, whereas overdriving an amp will!

The most crucial thing is to not be swayed by claimed power outputs, a few 'rules':

1). RMS or nothing.  If something quotes 'max' or 'peak' power then take it with a huge pinch of salt, these figures can be halved, then halved again to get the approximate RMS output, which is more of a real world figure.

2). 12v NOT 14v!.  You car runs a 12v system right?  Well be careful, many manufacturers inflate their power outputs by running the gear at 14v!

3). Resistance.  If you're getting a 4 ohm sub and the amp produces its best power figures at 2 ohms, then it's not the right setup for you.

4). Cabling.  Run RCA's and power supply wires down seperate sides of the car, this will help reduce interference.  Keep all cables as short as possible and do not be tempted to loop up spare cable.

5). Grounds.  Make sure it's a good earth and always scrape paint away to reveal bare metal - painted surfaces or primered surfaces aren't a good conductor!

6). Budget for cables.  Don't forget that a good amp kit is going to cost a few quid.  Don't go silly, anyone that tells you they can hear the difference between a £50 amp kit and a £120 on anything less than a competition system is imagining it.  As long as you have a decent, chunky and well insulated set of power cables, and good quality screened RCA cables, you'll be dandy.

Just something to get you up and running!

Cheers,
James

[Spam]

Wow Thanks Jame's

Thats everything i needed to know.

Soon i will have the dub play loud and sharp, lol

Spam...

[Heyho]

Just to add a couple of notes:

As said, amp ratings are often inflated, but the ones to avoid are those emblazened with power outputs across the top.  The fuses on the amp itself (or the stated current draw) are a more accurate guide to the output.  There is nothing wrong with amps rated at 14v, as that the voltage they are most likely to see with the engine running.

If it's easier to run all cables together, do it.  You'll always hear people telling you not to, but I've never had it cause problems, or ever heard of it actually causing problems.  Bad earths are usually the trouble.

I would recommend replacing only the front speakers with some decent components.  If you want rear speakers (the only reason being for rear seat passengers), then leave the standard ones in there, and run them from the headunit so that you can fade them out.

As for subs, there's a million to choose from.  Don't worry if your amp is 2ohm stable, you'll be fine with a 4ohm sub, but don't do it the other way round, as it will start to smell, then cutout!

To simplify installation, I'd say go for a 4-channel amp, to run the fronts and sub.  Some idea of your budget would be helpful.

[mk2mark]

Agree with all the above. A great cost effective system in my experience are large components and a sub run off a 4 channel amp (with the sub bridged over 2 of the channels). Run the other smaller speakers off the headunit. Also, if your car's not running 14v then there's something seriously wrong!