Kev's GTI PP DSG with OEM mods

[Mr Savage]

Fair enough I just put two short bits of wood on top of each other between the underside and the trolley jack and it hasn't marked anything yet.

[Gnasher]

Fair enough I just put two short bits of wood on top of each other between the underside and the trolley jack and it hasn't marked anything yet.

I did the same but nearly crapped myself when one of the bits of wood split on the trolley jack. This way is definitely a better idea for me, lol! Also, probably a little more stable not having 2 sets of contact faces rather than 1.

[p3asa]

8V0 825 271                       Qty:1
8V0 825 272                       Qty:1
8V0 802 845                       Qty:1
8V0 802 846                       Qty:1
8V0 802 847                       Qty:2
8V0 804 631                       Qty:2

I've a few questions Kevin if you don't mind?

Your parts list says there are 8 parts but I only see 6! What's missing?

In the middle picture, do you actually jack on to that flat plastic part? It looks really smooth and easy for the jack to slip! Whereas the jacking point in your last picture looks ideal as that would nestle into most jacks!

Lastly, I've had a quick look on-line for costs but couldn't see any. What does this set up roughly cost?

I used the puck method on my old A1 (now my wife's) but because the puck was roughly the same size as the jack head I had to put wood in-between the two. As I was jacking the car up the wood cracked unbeknown to me so as I was jacking I was also pushing the sill up from underneath!! A costly mistake at over £500 to repair. So this method looks promising 

Thanks for sharing.

[kevinm]

8V0 825 271                       Qty:1
8V0 825 272                       Qty:1
8V0 802 845                       Qty:1
8V0 802 846                       Qty:1
8V0 802 847                       Qty:2
8V0 804 631                       Qty:2

I've a few questions Kevin if you don't mind?

Your parts list says there are 8 parts but I only see 6! What's missing?

In the middle picture, do you actually jack on to that flat plastic part? It looks really smooth and easy for the jack to slip! Whereas the jacking point in your last picture looks ideal as that would nestle into most jacks!

Lastly, I've had a quick look on-line for costs but couldn't see any. What does this set up roughly cost?

I used the puck method on my old A1 (now my wife's) but because the puck was roughly the same size as the jack head I had to put wood in-between the two. As I was jacking the car up the wood cracked unbeknown to me so as I was jacking I was also pushing the sill up from underneath!! A costly mistake at over £500 to repair. So this method looks promising 

Thanks for sharing.

The first 2 parts I list are not in the picture. They are underbody trims. You have to remove a trim each side to reveal where the jacking points go. The first 2 parts are new trims to go with the jacking points. You can see it in the last picture. It is the clean darker plastic to the right and above the jacking point. I have more pics of the jacking points on my friend's phone. I'll upload over the next few days.

The jacking points are hard plastic. They would not work well with those cheap trolley jacks that have the metal head on them. My jack has a rubber pad moulded into it so it works perfectly.

[kevinm]

Here are a few more pics of the front jacking point:








This is the driver's side looking forward. Remove the T20 screw securing the existing trim. Release the tabs and slide the trim rear-wards. This will take a lot of force.



Here is the factory fitted trim beside the new one:



Lube the rubber bung with washing up liquid or your lubricant of choice 



Press the rubber bung into the mount:



You will need a jack to press it all the way in. Even this wont get it in fully. When you release the jack, rotate the bung until you hear it click. Make sure it is fully in before you move on.





Fit the new trim and put back in the T20 screw:



The press in the plastic jacking point with the jack:



Job Done! 


I also got another nice oem part. Audi's come with a plastic piece to guide the wheel onto the hub. You only get about 2 uses out of it until the plastic threads strip. This is an aluminium one from a Phaeton/Touareg. As it's aluminium, it's very light, it's far light than you would expect. If there's interest, I'll dig out the part number:

[p3asa]

Thanks.
That makes a lot more sense 

An alignment tool is invaluable when you are trying to put the alloy back on.
This is the one I use off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-WHEEL-FITTING-ALIGNMENT-TOOL-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK5-MK6-BOLT-NUT-3E-/360514446373?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item53f055e425

[kevinm]

Thanks.
That makes a lot more sense 

An alignment tool is invaluable when you are trying to put the alloy back on.
This is the one I use off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-WHEEL-FITTING-ALIGNMENT-TOOL-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK5-MK6-BOLT-NUT-3E-/360514446373?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item53f055e425

The genuine one was about that price too

[Sootchucker]

Hi Kev, just sent you a PM, but thought I'd post here as well.

Loving the mods you have made to your GTI. One in particular stood out as it's one I've been wanting to do for a while now, and it's the door warning lights (at the bottom of the door). Wonder if I could trouble you with a few questions please ?

I already have the door light units (retained them from my Scirocco when I traded it in - I did the mod on that). Do you have any more info on firstly removing the door cards safely and without damaging them (is it scary ?), and secondly a little more info on exactly how you wired them up please.

The reason I ask is that I noted you said there were no spare wiring points in the door module (J386), as when I looked into this some time ago, I assumed the Audi A3 and Golf 7 door modules were basically the same (the part numbers are the same aside from the Audi vs VW identifiers), for the MQB platforms. I downloaded a Golf 7 and Audi A3 (MQB) wiring schematic from VW's technical website, and noticed that the A3 (which has separate red and white door warning and puddle lighting illumination as standard), connects to a positive terminal 16 of the 32 pin connector (on the front door controller), with the earth (for all the door lights), connecting to the main earth in the door wiring harness.

Looking at the same schematic for the Golf door control module, all wiring for the various components for the Golf vs the A3 all go to identical pin numbers in both cars (which is why I assumed the door controllers were the same - or at least very similar). However crucially, from what I can see, the Golf doesn't have a pin going to terminal 16, which theoretically should be the door warning illumination pin as used by Audi, as the Golf doesn't have these installed as standard ? Is that then not the case ?

I assume there's no VCDS coding required ?

Does any of this make sense 

**EDIT**

Just re-looked at the wiring schematics jut now (with a fresh pair of eyes) and indeed have found that the sill strip illumination does ultimately connect (via the coupling point in the door) to terminal 16 of the door control module, so it does indeed seem VW are using the same pin on the Golf as per the A3 for door illumination. So I guess you just spliced into that wire on the door control module ?

[kevinm]

Hi Sootchucker, I'll answer your questions here so others can see it.

The door controllers are the exact same in the Golf and A3. They have the same common MQB part number (5Q0).

My version of elsa showed pin 16 to be vacant in the Golf too but when I took the door card off I found pin 16 to be occupied. After a bit of trial and error I figured out that the wire powers the illuminated door sill which makes sense as it only turns on when the door is open. The current version of elsa now shows the illuminated door sill at pin 16 but when I did the mod vw had not yet added it to their schematic. This also means that the door controller is already coded for door exit lights so no vcds coding is required.

The easiest way would be to just splice into the wiring to power the exit lights but I don't like damaging factory wiring. I made a loom that plugs in between the factory wiring and door controller and I split the power and ground in my loom.

I have a hand drawn schematic of my loom with the lengths of wire I made. I'll transfer it to a ms paint diagram that's easier to follow. It will take me a few days to do.

EDIT: on removing the door cards, it's the same principle as the mk5/mk6/scirocco. Just take your time and have spare clips on hand because you will break some. They are very cheap. 

[Sootchucker]

Thanks Kevin, the schematic (when you have a chance) would be great.

Sorry to ask another question, but with regards to removing the door cards, are there bolts behind the door grab handle and if so, does the outer part of the trim lever off ?

I guess elsewhere there's bolts on the bottom edge (and there appears to be a "special" one in the bottom middle ?), and everything else is just those big white clip things (like on my Scirocco) ?